KNOTS, BENDS, AND HITCHES
How to Tie Knots Useful on Both Land and Water
THE art of tying knots is an almost necessary adjunct to not a few
recreations. Especially is this true of summer sports, many of which
are nautical or in some manner connected with the water.
Any boy who has been aboard a yacht or a sail-boat must have realized
that the safety of the vessel and all aboard may be imperilled by
ignorance or negligence in the tying of a knot or fastening of a rope.
With some the knack of tying a good, strong knot in a heavy rope
or light cord seems to be a natural gift; it is certainly a very
convenient accomplishment, and one that with practice and a little
perseverance may be acquired even by those who at first make the most
awkward and bungling attempts.
A bulky, cumbersome knot is not only ungainly, but is generally
insecure.
As a rule, the strength of a knot is in direct proportion to its neat
and handsome appearance.
To my mind it is as necessary that the archer should know how to make
the proper loops at the end of his bow-string as it is that a hunter
should understand how to load his gun.
Every fisherman should be able to join two lines neatly and securely,
and should know the best and most expeditious method of attaching an
extra hook or fly; and any boy who rigs up a hammock or swing with a
"granny" or other insecure knot deserves the ugly tumble and sore bones
that are more than liable to result from his ignorance.
A knot, nautically speaking, is a "bend" that is more permanent than a
"hitch." A knot properly tied never slips, nor does it jam so that it
cannot be readily untied. A "hitch" might be termed a temporary bend,
as it is seldom relied upon for permanent service. The "hitch" is so
made that it can be cast off or unfastened more quickly than a knot.
It is impossible for the brightest boy to learn to make "knots, bends,
and hitches" by simply reading over a description of the methods; for,
although he may understand them at the time, five minutes after reading
the article the process will have escaped his memory. But if he take a
piece of cord or rope and sit down with the diagrams in front of him,
he will find little difficulty in managing the most complicated knots;
and he will not only acquire an accomplishment from which he can derive
infinite amusement for himself and a means of entertainment for others,
but the knowledge gained may, in case of accident by fire or flood, be
the means of saving both life and property.
The accompanying diagrams show a number of useful and important bends,
splices, etc. To simplify matters, let us commence with Fig. 57, and go
through the diagrams in the order in which they come:
The "English" or "common single fisherman's knot" (Fig. 185, I) is neat
and strong enough for any ordinary strain. The diagram shows the knots
before being tightened and drawn together.
When exceptional strength is required it can be obtained by joining the
lines in the ordinary single fisherman's knot (Fig. 185, I) and pulling
each of the half knots as tight as possible, then drawing them within
an eighth of an inch of each other and wrapping between with fine gut
that has been previously softened in water, or with light-colored silk.
An additional line or a sinker may be attached by tying a knot in the
end of the extra line and inserting it between the parts of the single
fisherman's knot before they are drawn together and tightened.
[Illustration: Fig. 185.--Some useful knots.]
The "fisherman's double half knot," Fig. 185 (II and III). After the
gut has been passed around the main line and through itself, it is
passed around the line once more and through the same loop again and
drawn close.
Fig. 185 (IV, V, and IX). Here are three methods of joining the ends of
two lines together; the diagrams explain them much better than words
can. Take a piece of string, try each one, and test their relative
strength.
Fig. 185 (VI). It often happens, while fishing, that a hook is caught
in a snag or by some other means lost. The diagram shows the most
expeditious manner of attaching another hook by what is known as the
"sinker hitch," described further on (Fig. 185, D, D, D, and Fig. 186,
XIV, XV, and XVI).
Fig. 185, VII is another and more secure method of attaching a hook by
knitting the line on with a succession of half-hitches.
How to Make a Horse-Hair Watch-Guard
The same hitches are used in the manufacture of horse-hair
watch-guards, much in vogue with the boys in some sections of the
country. As regularly as "kite-time," "top-time," or "ball-time," comes
"horse-hair watch-guard time."
About once a year the rage for making watch-guards used to seize the
boys of our school, and by some means or other almost every boy would
have a supply of horse-hair on hand. With the first tap of the bell for
recess, some fifty hands would dive into the mysterious depths of about
fifty pockets, and before the bell had stopped ringing about fifty
watch-guards, in a more or less incomplete state, would be produced.
Whenever a teamster's unlucky stars caused him to stop near the
school-house, a chorus of voices greeted him with "Mister, please let
us have some hair from your horses' tails."
The request was at first seldom refused, possibly because its nature
was not at the time properly understood; but lucky was the boy
considered who succeeded in pulling a supply of hair from the horses'
tails without being interrupted by the heels of the animals or by the
teamster, who, when he saw the swarm of boys tugging at his horses'
tails, generally repented his first good-natured assent, and with a
gruff, "Get out, you young rascals!" sent the lads scampering to the
school-yard fence.
Select a lot of long hair of the color desired; make it into a switch
about an eighth of an inch thick by tying one end in a simple knot.
Pick out a good, long hair and tie it around the switch close to the
knotted end; then take the free end of the single hair in your right
hand and pass it under the switch on one side, thus forming a loop
through which the end of the hair must pass after it is brought up and
over from the other side of the switch. Draw the knot tight by pulling
the free end of the hair as shown by Fig. 185, VII. Every time this
operation is repeated a wrap and a knot is produced. The knots follow
each other in a spiral around the switch, giving it a very pretty,
ornamented appearance. When one hair is used up select another and
commence knitting with it as you did with the first, being careful to
cover and conceal the short end of the first hair, and to make the
knots on the second commence where the former stop. A guard made of
white horse-hair looks as if it might be composed of spun glass, and
produces a very odd and pretty effect. A black one is very genteel in
appearance. These ornaments are much prized by cowboys, and I have seen
bridles for horses made of braided horsehair.
Miscellaneous
Fig. 185, VIII shows a simple and expeditous manner of attaching a
trolling-hook to a fish-line.
Fig. 185, F is a hitch used on shipboard, or wherever lines and cables
are used. It is called the Blackwall hitch.
Fig. 185, E is a fire-escape made of a double bow-line knot, useful
as a sling for hoisting persons up or letting them down from any high
place; the window of a burning building, for instance. Fig. 186, XVIII,
XIX, and XX show how this knot is made. It is described on page 77.
Fig. 185, A is a "bale hitch," made of a loop of rope. To make it, take
a piece of rope that has its two ends joined; lay the rope down and
place the bale on it; bring the loop opposite you up, on that side of
the bale, and the loop in front up, on the side of the bale next to
you; thrust the latter loop under and through the first and attach the
hoisting rope. The heavier the object to be lifted, the tighter the
hitch becomes. An excellent substitute for a shawl-strap can be made of
a cord by using the bale hitch, the loop at the top being a first-rate
handle.
Fig. 185, B is called a cask sling, and C (Fig. 185) is called a butt
sling. The manner of making these last two and their uses may be seen
by referring to the illustration. It will be noticed that a line is
attached to the bale hitch in a peculiar manner (_a_, Fig. 185). This
is called the "anchor bend." If while aboard a sail-boat you have
occasion to throw a bucket over for water, you will find the anchor
bend a very convenient and safe way to attach a line to the bucket
handle, but unless you are an expert you will need an anchor hitched to
your body or you will follow the bucket.
Fig. 186, I and II are loops showing the elements of the simplest knots.
Fig. 186, III is a simple knot commenced.
Fig. 186, IV shows the simple knot tightened.
Fig. 186, V and VI show how the Flemish knot looks when commenced and
finished.
Fig. 186, VII and VIII show a "rope knot" commenced and finished.
Fig. 186, IX is a double knot commenced.
Fig. 186, X is the same completed.
Fig. 186, XI shows a back view of the double knot.
Fig. 186, XII is the first loop of a "bow-line knot." One end of the
line is supposed to be made fast to some object. After the turn, or
loop (Fig. 186, XII), is made, hold it in position with your left hand
and pass the end of the line up through the loop, or turn, you have
just made, behind and over the line above, then down through the loop
again, as shown in the diagram (Fig. 186, XIII); pull it tight and the
knot is complete. The "sinker hitch" is a very handy one to know, and
the variety of uses it may be put to will be at once suggested by the
diagrams.
[Illustration: Fig. 186.]
Lines that have both ends made fast may have weights attached to them
by means of the sinker hitch (Fig. 185, D, D, D).
To accomplish this, first gather up some slack and make it in the form
of the loop (Fig. 186, XIV); bend the loop back on itself (Fig. 186,
XV) and slip the weight through the double loop thus formed (Fig. 186,
XVI); draw tight by pulling the two top lines, and the sinker hitch is
finished (Fig. 186, XVII).
The "fire-escape sling" previously mentioned, and illustrated by Fig.
185, E, is made with a double line.
Proceed at first as you would to make a simple bow-line knot (Fig. 186,
XVIII).
After you have run the end loop up through the turn (Fig. 186, XIX),
bend it downward and over the bottom loop and turn, then up again until
it is in the position shown in Fig. 186, XX; pull it downward until
the knot is tightened, as in Fig. 185, E, and it makes a safe sling in
which to lower a person from any height. The longer loop serves for a
seat, and the shorter one, coming under the arms, makes a rest for the
back.
Fig. 186½, XXI is called a "boat knot," and is made with the aid of
a stick. It is an excellent knot for holding weights which may want
instant detachment. To detach it, lift the weight slightly and push out
the stick, and instantly the knot is untied.
Fig. 186½, XXII. Commencement of a "six-fold knot."
Fig. 186½, XXIII. Six-fold knot completed by drawing the two ends with
equal force. A knot drawn in this manner is said to be "nipped."
Fig. 186½, XXIV. A simple hitch or "double" used in making loop knots.
Fig. 186½, XXV. "Loop knot."
Fig. 186½, XXVI shows how the loop knot is commenced.
Fig. 186½, XXVII is the "Dutch double knot," sometimes called the
"Flemish loop."
Fig. 186½, XXVIII shows a common "running knot."
Fig. 186½, XXIX. A running knot with a check knot to hold.
Fig. 186½, XXX. A running knot checked.
[Illustration: Fig. 186½.]
Fig. 186½, XXXI. The right-hand part of the rope shows how to make the
double loop for the "twist knot." The left-hand part of the same rope
shows a finished twist knot. It is made by taking a half turn on both
the right-hand and left-hand lines of the double loop and passing the
end through the "bight" (loop) so made.
Whiplashes
Fig. 186½, XXXII is called the "chain knot," which is often used in
braiding leather whiplashes. To make a "chain knot," fasten one end of
the thong, or line; make a simple loop and pass it over the left hand;
retain hold of the free end with the right hand; with the left hand
seize the line above the right hand and draw a loop through the loop
already formed; finish the knot by drawing it tight with the left hand.
Repeat the operation until the braid is of the required length, then
secure it by passing the free end through the last loop.
Fig. 186½, XXXIII shows a double chain knot.
Fig. 186½, XXXIV is a double chain knot pulled out. It shows how the
free end is thrust through the last loop.
Fig. 186½, XXXV. Knotted loop for end of rope, used to prevent the end
of the rope from slipping, and for various other purposes.
Splices, Timber-Hitches, etc.
Although splices may not be as useful to boys as knots and hitches,
for the benefit of those among my readers who are interested in the
subject, I have introduced a few bands and splices on the cables partly
surrounding Fig. 186½.
Fig. 186½, _a_ shows the knot and upper side of a "simple band."
Fig. 186½, _b_ shows under side of the same.
Fig. 186½, _c_ and _d_ show a tie with cross-ends. To hold the ends of
the cords, a turn is taken under the strands.
[Illustration: Fig. 187.]
Fig. 186½, _e_ and _f_: Bend with cross-strands, one end looped over
the other.
Fig. 186½, _g_ shows the upper side of the "necklace tie."
Fig. 186½, _h_ shows the under side of the same. The advantage of this
tie is that the greater the strain on the cords, the tighter it draws
the knot.
Fig. 186½, _i_ and _j_ are slight modifications of _g_ and _h_.
Fig. 186½, _p_ shows the first position of the end of the ropes for
making the splice _k_. Untwist the strands and put the ends of two
ropes together as close as possible, and place the strands of the one
between the strands of the other alternately, so as to interlace, as in
_k_. This splice should only be used when there is not time to make the
"long splice," as the short one is not very strong.
From _l_ to _m_ is a long splice, made by underlaying the strands of
each of the ropes joined about half the length of the splice, and
putting each strand of the one between two of the other; _q_ shows the
strands arranged for the long splice.
Fig. 186½, _n_ is a simple mode of making a hitch on a rope.
Fig. 186½, _o_ is a "shroud knot."
Fig. 186½, _r_ shows a very convenient way to make a handle on a rope,
and is used upon large ropes when it is necessary for several persons
to take hold to pull.
Fig. 187, A. Combination of half-hitch and timber-hitch.
Fig. 187, B. Ordinary half-hitch.
Fig. 187, C. Ordinary timber-hitch.
Fig. 187, D. Another timber-hitch, called the "clove-hitch."
Fig. 187, E. "Hammock-hitch," used for binding bales of goods or cloth.
Fig. 187, F. "Lark-head knot," used by sailors and boatmen for mooring
their crafts.
Fig. 187, P shows a lark-head fastening to a running knot.
Fig. 187, G is a double-looped lark-head.
Fig. 187, H shows a double-looped lark-head knot fastened to the ring
of a boat.
[Illustration: Fig. 187½.--Timber-hitches, etc.]
Fig. 187, I is a "treble lark-head." To make it you must first tie
a single lark-head, then divide the two heads and use each singly, as
shown in the diagram.
Fig. 187, J shows a simple boat knot with one turn.
Fig. 187, K. "Crossed running knot." It is a strong and handy tie, not
as difficult to make as it appears to be.
Fig. 187, L is the bow-line knot, described by the diagrams XII and
XIII (Fig. 186). The free end of the knot is made fast by binding it to
the "bight," or the loop. It makes a secure sling for a man to sit in
at his work among the rigging.
Fig. 187, M, N, and O. "Slip clinches," or "sailors' knots."
Fig. 187½, Q shows a rope fastened by the chain-hitch. The knot at the
left-hand end explains a simple way to prevent a rope from unravelling.
Fig. 187½, R. A timber-hitch; when tightened the line binds around the
timber so that it will not slip.
Fig. 187½, S. Commencement of simple lashing knot.
Fig. 187½, T. Simple lashing knot finished.
Fig. 187½, U. "Infallible loop;" not properly a timber-hitch, but
useful in a variety of ways, and well adapted for use in archery.
Fig. 187½, V. Same as R, reversed. It looks like it might give way
under a heavy strain, but it will not.
Fig. 187½, W. Running knot with two ends.
Fig. 187½, X. Running knot with a check knot that can only be opened
with a marline-spike.
Fig. 187½, Y. A two-ended running knot with a check to the running
loops. This knot can be untied by drawing both ends of the cord.
Fig. 187½, Z. Running knot with two ends, fixed by a double Flemish
knot. When you wish to encircle a timber with this tie, pass the ends
on which the check knot is to be through the cords before they are
drawn tight. This will require considerable practice.
Fig. 187½, _a_ shows an ordinary twist knot.
Fig. 187½, _a_^{1} shows the form of loop for builder's knot.
Fig. 187½, _b_. Double twist knot.
Fig. 187½, _c_. Builder's knot finished.
Fig. 187½, _d_ represents a double builder's knot.
Fig. 187½, _e_. "Weaver's knot," same as described under the head of
Becket hitch (Fig. 185, V).
Fig. 187½, _f_. Weaver's knot drawn tight.
Fig. 187½, _g_ shows how to commence a reef knot. This is useful for
small ropes; with ropes unequal in size the knot is likely to draw out
of shape, as _m_.
Fig. 187½, _h_ shows a reef knot completed.
Of all knots, avoid the "granny"; it is next to useless under a strain,
and marks the tier as a "landlubber."
Fig. 187½, _i_ shows a granny knot; _n_ shows a granny under strain.
Fig. 187½, _j_ shows the commencement of a common "rough knot."
Fig. 187½, _k_. The front view of finished knot.
Fig. 187½, _l_. The back view of finished knot. Although this knot
will not untie nor slip, the rope is likely to part at one side if the
strain is great. Awkward as it looks, this tie is very useful at times
on account of the rapidity with which it can be made.
Fig. 187½, _o_ and _p_. Knot commenced and finished, used for the same
purposes as the Flemish knot.
Fig. 187½, _q_ and _q_^{1}. An ordinary knot with ends used separately.
Fig. 187½, _s_. Sheep-shank, or dog-shank as it is sometimes called,
is very useful in shortening a line. Suppose, for instance, a swing is
much longer than necessary, and you wish to shorten it without climbing
aloft to do so, it can be done with a sheep-shank.
Fig. 187½, _r_ shows the first position of the two loops. Take two half
hitches, and you have a bend of the form shown by _s_. Pull tightly
from above and below the shank, and you will find that the rope is
shortened securely enough for ordinary strain.
Fig. 187½, _t_. Shortening by loop and turns made where the end of the
rope is free.
Fig. 187½, _u_. A shortened knot that can be used when either end is
free.
Fig. 187½, _v_, _w_, and _x_. Shortening knots.
Fig. 187½, _y_ and _z_. A "true lover's knot," and the last one that
you need to practise on, for one of these knots is as much as most
persons can attend to, and ought to last a lifetime.
[Illustration]