A RAFT THAT WILL SAIL
The Raft is Just the Thing for Camp Life--Pleasurable
Occupation for a Camping Party Where Wood is
Plentiful--You Will Need Axes and Hatchets and a Few
Other Civilized Implements
FIRST we will select two pine logs of equal length, and, while the
water is heating for our coffee, we will sharpen the butt, or larger
end, of the logs on one side with the axe, making a "chisel edge," as
shown in Fig. 20. This gives us an appetite for breakfast and makes the
big fish in the lake, as they jump above the water, cast anxious looks
toward our camp.
Breakfast finished, we will cut some cross-pieces to join our two logs
together, and at equal distances apart we will bore holes through the
cross-pieces for peg-holes (Figs. 21, 22, and 23). While one of the
party is fashioning a number of pegs, each with a groove in one side,
like those shown in Fig. 24, the others will roll the logs into the
water and secure them in a shallow spot.
Shoes and stockings must be removed, for most of the work is now to be
done in the water. Of course, it would be much easier done on land, but
the raft will be very heavy and could never be launched unless under
the most favorable circumstances. It is better to build the craft in
the element which is to be its home.
Cut two long saplings for braces, and after separating the logs the
proper distance for your cross-pieces to fit, nail your braces in
position, as represented by Fig. 20.
[Illustration: Fig. 20.]
[Illustration: Fig. 25.]
[Illustration: Fig. 26.]
[Illustration: Fig. 21.]
[Illustration: Fig. 22.]
[Illustration: Fig. 23.]
[Illustration: Fig. 27.]
[Illustration: Fig. 28.]
[Illustration: PARTS OF MAN-FRIDAY SAILING-RAFT.
20.--Logs in place with braces. Figs. 21, 22, and 23.--Struts. Fig.
24.--Pegs. Fig. 25.--Raft with middle and stern strut in place. Fig.
26.--Springs for dry deck. Fig. 27.--Dry deck. Fig. 28.--Dry deck in
place.]
This holds the logs steady, and we may now lay the two cross-pieces in
position, and mark the points on the logs carefully where the holes
are to be bored to correspond with the ones in the cross-pieces. Bore
the holes in one log first; make the holes deep enough and then fill
them with water, after which drive the pegs through the ends of the
cross-pieces and into the log. The grooves in the pegs (Fig. 24) will
allow the water to escape from the holes and the water will cause the
peg to swell and tighten its hold on the log and cross-pieces.
Now bore holes in the other log under those in the cross-pieces and
fill them with water before driving the pegs home, as you did in the
first instance. Fig. 25 is a Man-Friday raft.
The Deck
Before placing the bow in position we must go ashore and make a dry
deck. Selecting for the springs two long green ash or hickory poles,
trim the ends off flat on one side, as shown by Fig. 26. This flat side
is the bottom, so roll them over, with the flat side toward the ground,
and if you can find no planks or barrel staves for a deck, split in
half a number of small logs and peg or nail them on the top side of the
springs, as in Fig. 27.
Now all hands must turn out and carry the deck down to the raft and
place it in position, with the flattened sides of the springs resting
on top of the logs at the bow. Prop it up in this position, and then
bore holes through the springs into the logs and peg the springs down.
Over the flat ends place the heavy bow cross-piece, bore the peg-holes,
and fasten it in position (Fig. 28).
In the centre of the bow cross-piece bore several holes close together
and chip out the wood between to make a hole, as square a one as
possible, for the mast to fit or "step" in. With the wood from a
packing-box or a slab from a log make the bench for the mast.
Bore a hole through the bench a trifle astern of the step, or hole, for
the mast below. It will cause the mast to "rake" a little "aft." You
have done a big day's work, but a couple of days ought to be sufficient
time to finish the craft.
The Sail
[Illustration: Fig. 29.--Sail for Man-Friday.]
Turn over the raw edges of the old sail-cloth and stitch them down, as
in Fig. 29--that is, if you have the needle and thread for the purpose;
if not, trim the cloth to the proper form and two inches from the
luff (the side next to the mast). Cut a number of holes; these should
be stitched like button-holes, if possible, but if the sail-cloth is
tough and we have no needle, we shall have to let them go unstitched. A
small loop of rope must be sewed or fastened in some other manner very
securely to each corner of the sail.
From spruce pine or an old fishing-pole make a sprit, and of a good,
straight piece of pine manufacture your mast somewhat longer than the
luff of the sail (Fig. 29).
Through the eyelets lace the luff of the sail to the mast, so that its
lower edge will clear the dry deck by about a foot.
[Illustration: Fig. 30.--Scudding before the wind.]
Through the hole made for the purpose in the bench (Fig. 30) thrust the
mast into the step, or socket, that we have cut in the bow cross-piece.
Tie to the loop at the bottom corner of the sail a strong line about
twelve feet long for a sheet with which to control the sail.
Trim the upper end of the sprit to fit in the loop at the upper outer
corner of the sail, and make a notch in the lower end to fit in the
loop of the line called the "snotter."
Now, as you can readily see, when the sprit is pushed diagonally upward
the sail is spread; to hold it in place make a loop of line for a
"snotter" and attach the loop to the mast, as in Figs. 29 and 30. Fit
the loop in the notch in the lower end of the sprit, and the sail is
set.
The Keelig
We need anchors, one for the bow and one for the stern. It takes
little time to make them, as you only need a forked stick, a stone,
and a piece of plank, or, better still, a barrel stave. Figs. 35 to
39 show how this is made. Down East the fishermen use the "keelig" in
preference to any other anchor.
[Illustration: Fig. 31.]
[Illustration: Fig. 32.]
[Illustration: Fig. 33.]
[Illustration: Fig. 34.]
[Illustration: Fig. 37.]
[Illustration: Fig. 35.]
[Illustration: Fig. 36.]
[Illustration: Fig. 38.]
[Illustration: Fig. 39.]
Make fast your lines to the "keelig" thus: Take the end of the rope in
your right hand and the standing part (which is the part leading from
the boat) in your left hand and form the loop (A, Fig. 31).
Then with the left hand curve the cable from you, bringing the end
through the loop, as in B, Fig. 32; then lead it around and down, as in
C, Fig. 33.
Draw it tight, as in D, Fig. 34, and you have the good, old-fashioned
knot, called by sailors the "bow-line."
To make it look neat and shipshape you may take a piece of
string and bind the standing part to the shaft of your anchor or
keelig--keelek--killick--killeck--kelleck--kellock--killock, etc., as
you may choose to spell it.
A paddle to steer with and two pegs in the stern cross-piece to rest it
in complete the craft; and now the big bass had better use due caution,
because our lines will reach their haunts, and we are after them!