PLANS FOR ECONOMISING FOOD AND FUEL.

As one of Count Rumford’s reasons for preferring a general system for

the administration of charity was the superior economy which it

admitted, especially in the articles of food and fuel, it is not to be

wondered at that he turned his attention to a consideration of the

subject of food and fuel itself. In doing so, he opened up a new field

for the exercise of his practical genius. What is the cheapest way of

feeding large bodies of men? and what is the most economical way of

applying heat for the purposes of warmth, of cooking, and of

manufactures? These are questions upon which Count Rumford occupied

himself more zealously and more successfully than any one had done

before him, or, probably, than any one has done since his time. With

the former question he was engaged while yet resident in Bavaria――one

of his subsidiary schemes for the benefit of the poor there, and in

other large towns, being the establishment of public kitchens and

dining-rooms, where the poor, or indeed the laboring classes

generally, might be supplied with better food at a cheaper rate than

in their own houses. As the subject of cookery――of the improvements

which are possible in the mode of preparing food for the use of man,

whether with respect to economy, or to the gratification of the

palate, or to both――is one to which scientific men have not yet

applied themselves with sufficient zeal, we will note down such of

Rumford’s conclusions on it as do not appear to be antiquated. The

importance which Count Rumford himself attached to the subject will

appear from his extraordinary saying, that ‘the number of inhabitants

who may be supported in any country upon its internal produce, depends

almost as much upon the state of its _art of cookery_ as upon that of

its _agriculture_.’

With regard to the materials of food, it needs only to be mentioned

that Rumford, besides recommending in Bavaria a larger use of

vegetables generally, advocated in a special manner the introduction

of the potato, and of Indian corn――the former by cultivation, the

latter by importation. In recommending Indian corn, he says, ‘The

common people in the northern parts of Italy live almost entirely upon

it, and throughout the whole continent of America it makes a principal

article of food. In Italy it is called _polenta_; and it is there

prepared in a variety of ways, and forms the basis of a number of very

nourishing dishes. The most common way of using it in that country is

to grind it into meal, and, with water, to make it into a thick kind

of pudding, like what in England is called hasty-pudding, which is

eaten with various kinds of sauce, and sometimes without sauce.’ In

America, besides being used for puddings, it forms an ingredient of

bread. In testimony to its pleasantness and wholesomeness as an

article of food, he mentions the circumstance of the universal

fondness of the Americans for it; and that the negroes, in countries

where both rice and Indian corn are grown, invariably prefer it to

rice, alleging that ‘rice turns to water in their bellies,’ but

‘Indian corn stays with them, and makes them strong to work.’

As to the best mode of preparing food for the purposes of economy,

Rumford’s grand recipe was――_soup_. ‘At the time when Rumford entered

the service of the elector,’ says his biographer, Dr. Renwick, ‘the

pay of the private soldier was no more than about three cents a day;

under his administration it was raised to about four cents. Out of

this he was compelled to purchase every article of food, except bread,

of which a ration of little more than two pounds was issued to him.

When we compare this scanty allowance with the rations of our own army

and navy, we should fancy that the condition of the Bavarian soldiers

must have been miserable in the extreme; but so far from this being

the case, they are described as ‘the finest, stoutest, and strongest

men in the world, whose countenances show the most evident marks of

health and perfect contentment.’ Such was the skill in cookery

possessed by the Bavarian soldier, that he was enabled to subsist on

two-thirds of his scanty pay, and, in addition, to save five-sixths of

his ration of bread, which he sold.’ By inquiries and experiments,

Rumford became convinced that the cause of the mystery lay in the

fact, that the Bavarian soldier used his food almost universally in

the form of soup. ‘What surprised me not a little,’ he says, ‘was the

discovery of the very small quantiy of _solid food_ which, when

properly prepared, will suffice to satisfy hunger, and support life

and health; and the very trifling expense at which the stoutest and

most laborious man may in any country be fed. After an experience of

nearly five years in feeding the poor at Munich, it was found that the

cheapest, most savory, and most nourishing food that could be prepared

was a soup composed of pearl barley, pease, potatoes, cuttings of fine

wheaten bread, vinegar, salt, and water, in certain proportions. I

constantly found that the richness or quality of a soup depended more

upon a proper choice of the ingredients, and a proper management of

the fire, than upon the quantity of solid nutritious matter

employed――much more upon the art and skill of the cook, than upon the

amount of the sums laid out in the market. I found also that the

nutritiousness of a soup, or its power of satisfying hunger, and

affording nourishment, seemed always to be in proportion to its

apparent richness or palatableness.’

Struck with these remarkable results, Rumford endeavoring to explain

them, by supposing that the _water_ used in converting solid

nutritious matter into soup became of itself nutritious, serving not

merely as the vehicle for food, but really constituting a part of the

food itself. This supposition of Rumford is now ascertained to be a

mistake. ‘Physiologists, however,’ says Dr. Renwick, ‘have reached the

true explanation. The quantity of matter required to supply the waste

of the body at all ages, and furnish the material for the growth of

the young, is small compared with the actual capacity of the digestive

organ, while the latter is not satiated, nor the appetite satisfied,

unless it receive a certain degree of distention. A quantity of warm

liquid, holding so much nutritious matter in solution as to render

digestion necessary, will fulfill the latter object as well as an

equal bulk of solid food; while the necessity of expelling the excess

above the actual wants of the system many in the latter case be

productive of evil.’

With such a decided preference for the soup form of food as Count

Rumford had been led to entertain, it is not to be wondered at that

soup was an essential feature in all his schemes for the benefit of

the poor. Soup was the great article of food employed in his

experiments in Munich; and in his contemplated project of public

kitchens and dining-rooms for large towns, the necessary condition of

success was, that soup should be the staple diet. He even went into

the details of the composition of soup; and his essays contain

receipts for making various kinds of soup, with and without

butcher-meat. The following judicious observations of Rumford’s

American biographer seem to sum up both the merits and the demerits of

these experiments and speculations:――‘The only question which admits

of doubt is, how the description of food preferred by Rumford is

adapted to the circumstances of all countries. Now, to the greater

part of the Anglo-Saxon race, soup, if not an abomination, will never

be received as the staple of more than one daily meal; while tea and

coffee, whose use Rumford reprobates, with their accompaniment of

sugar, have become necessaries of life. In Paris, soup, which became

for a while the fashionable mode of administering charity, was well

adapted to the habits of the people; but in England and America it was

received with grumbling, or rejected by all who could in any other

mode obtain food. One reason no doubt was, that it was considered

sufficient to make the food nutritious, without attempting to make it

pleasing to the palate. This defeat is far from inherent; for the

soups of Rumford, whether containing none but vegetable matter, or a

mixture of animal substance, may be easily rendered as delicious as

the most costly preparations of the French kitchen.’

Besides the general schemes which we have mentioned, Count Rumford was

engaged, during his residence in Bavaria, in many minor plans of

social improvement; indeed, as we have already said, he acted the part

of surveyor-general of the abuses of the electorate. It was not in the

nature of things that he should be able to proceed in his various

innovations and reforms without provoking some jealousy and opposition

among the Bavarian nobles: the support and favor, however, of the

elector never failed him, and with the people at large he was

exceedingly popular. In the year 1794, finding his health greatly

impaired by his close attention to business, he obtained leave of

absence from the elector, and employed sixteen months in traveling

through various parts of the continent, especially Italy. During his

absence, two very gratifying testimonies of respect and gratitude were

borne to him by the Bavarians. The first was, the erection of a

monument to commemorate his public services. The other was still more

honorable to him: it was the resolution, already referred to, of the

inmates of the Military Workhouse, when they heard that he was

dangerously ill at Naples, to set apart an hour every evening to pray

for his recovery. In 1795 Rumford returned to Bavaria, but left it

almost immediately, to proceed on a visit to England. Here he was

received with all distinction, and his opinion and advice were asked

by all engaged in philanthropic schemes. To save himself the labor

thus entailed upon him, he resolved to publish an account of his

doings and experiments in Bavaria, and accordingly prepared for the

press the two volumes of essays which go by his name. The only subject

of general interest in these essays, apart from the purely scientific

disquisitions, which remains to be mentioned by us, is that of _fuel_.

In undertaking to reform chimneys and fireplaces, Count Rumford had

three objects in view――the saving of fuel, the prevention of smoke,

and the avoidance of the injury to health arising from drafts. The

extent of his services in this unpretending but most important

department will be better estimated if we consider the state of

fireplaces in most European countries fifty or sixty years ago. ‘The

most polished nations of antiquity,’ says Dr. Renwick, ‘had no other

means of providing for the issue of the smoke of their fires than by

leaving openings in the roof. They indeed appear, in some instances,

to have heated apartments by flues circulating beneath the floors,

which must have terminated in a vertical funnel, thus forming an

approximation to the chimney; but there appears to be no instance of

the arrangement of an open hearth and vertical flue until late in the

middle ages. Chimneys and fireplaces of the latter date are still to

be seen in the kitchens and halls of baronial mansions; but the

hearths were of great size, the arched openings wide and lofty,

insomuch that they could be entered by persons standing upright, and

admitted seats to be placed on each side of the fire. The latter,

indeed, were the only places where the warmth of the fire could be

enjoyed without exposure to the currents of cold air continually

rushing in to join the ascending column in the chimney. Even when an

increasing scarcity of fuel compelled less extravagant modes of

applying it to be sought, the arched opening remained of a large size,

the fireplace of a depth equal in extent to its front, and the walls

were carried back perpendicularly to the latter. In England, where

coal had come into almost universal use as a fuel, the grates in which

it was burnt were almost exact cubes, and were lined with cast-iron on

the sides and back. The evils of these fire-places may be recollected

by all whose age reaches fifty; and they are remembered with feelings

in which shuddering and scorching are strangely combined, but which

are almost unknown, and scarcely to be imagined, by the present

generation. Chimneys which did not smoke were the exception to the

general rule; and the exposure of the surface of the body to cold

currents generated the acute pains of rheumatism, while the frequent

alternations of an increased and checked perspiration caused colds, to

be followed, in regular course, by pulmonary complaints. In this state

of things Rumford undertook to remedy the manifold evils of the open

fireplace.’

Observing that the heat of a mass of blazing fuel in a grate consisted

of two parts――that which radiated into the room, and served the

purposes of warmth; and that which, by heating the column of air in

the chimney, caused it to ascend, Rumford saw that an enormous saving

could be effected by diminishing the size of the grate. Instead of a

cubical mass of fuel, such as was generally used, he proposed to

employ a grate of ordinarily broad front, but not deep backward, and

with the sides not perpendicular to the front, but inclining. The

effect of this was to limit the fire to the single function of warming

the room by radiation from its front, while the mass of coal which had

formerly been consumed without any benefit to the apartment was saved.

In order, however, to prevent the smoking of the chimneys which would

have arisen from this diminution of the burning mass, another change

was necessary, and this was the narrowing the throat of the chimney,

so as to allow no more air to pass through it than the precise

quantity required to maintain the combustion. ‘The immoderate size of

the throats of chimneys,’ says Rumford, ‘is the great fault of their

construction. It is this fault which ought always first to be attended

to in every attempt which is made to improve them; for however perfect

the construction of a fireplace may be in other respects, if the

opening left for the passage of the smoke is larger than is necessary

for that purpose, nothing can prevent the warm air of the room from

escaping through it; and whenever this happens, there is not only an

unnecessary loss of heat, but the warm air which leaves the room to go

up the chimney being replaced by cold air from without, drafts of cold

air cannot fail to be produced in the room, to the great annoyance of

those who inhabit it.’

Such is a general description of Count Rumford’s alterations in

fireplaces. The subject, however, was pursued by him to its minutest

details, and illustrated by numerous and specific plans for curing

smoky chimneys under all possible circumstances. He likewise invented

various forms of stoves and grates, intended to exhibit the model

perfection of an apparatus for heating rooms, or for cooking victuals.

So thorough and complete was his investigation of the subject, that

little remained afterwards to be added to his conclusions; and it may

be said, that any case of the continuance of a smoky chimney after the

publication of his essays, arose from a neglect or misapplication of

the principles there developed.

After some stay in Great Britain, he returned to Munich in 1796,

accompanied by his daughter, who had come over from America at his

request, her mother having died in 1792. What were Count Rumford’s

relations with America, during the long interval of his absence from

it, we have no means of ascertaining; as far as can be inferred,

however, he seems to have maintained little correspondence with his

former friends in the United States till after his wife’s death; and

one cannot help remarking the unpleasing circumstance, that while on

one side of the Atlantic the husband was enjoying an honorable

position, and filling a large space in the public eye, the wife and

daughter continued during the life of the former to reside on the

other.

Rumford, on his return to Munich, was occupied in very important

affairs. The advance of the French republican army under Moreau

obliged the elector to quit the capital, leaving a council of regency,

with Rumford at its head. Rumford succeeded in the arduous task of

freeing Bavaria from invasion, and his conduct on this occasion

increased his reputation with the elector and with the people. Among

other tokens of the elector’s gratitude for his services, he was

permitted to settle one-half of the pension which he enjoyed on his

daughter, to be paid during her lifetime. In 1798 the elector, partly

with a view to gratify him with an honor which he knew he desired, and

partly to afford him another opportunity of relaxation for the

improvement of his health, appointed him ambassador at the court of

Great Britain. On arriving in London, however, Rumford found, that in

consequence of the English legal fiction, by which a born subject of

the country is declared incapable of ever alienating his allegiance,

he could not be received as the Bavarian ambassador. Mortified as he

must have been by this circumstance, and still more deeply grieved by

the loss of his friend and patron, the Elector Charles Theodore, who

died in 1799, Rumford contemplated returning to spend the remainder of

his life in the land of his birth. In compliance with a formal

invitation which he received from the United States government, he was

making preparations for his return, and had written to a friend to

secure a cottage in the vicinity of Boston, as a ‘quiet little

retreat,’ when he was led to change his design, and remain in London,

in the society of which he occupied a conspicuous place. During

several years, a great part of the Count Rumford’s time was devoted to

the interests of the Royal Institution, of which he may be considered

the founder. The objects of this institution, now one of the

recognized scientific establishments of the world, and one which can

boast of having given employment to such men as Young, Davy, Brande,

and Faraday, were ‘to diffuse the knowledge and facilitate the general

introduction of useful mechanical inventions and improvements, and to

teach, by courses of philosophical lectures and experiments, the

application of science to the useful purposes of life.’ Such an

institution was precisely the one which Rumford was qualified to

superintend; and in its early history, the influence of his peculiar

habits of thought is discernable in the choice of subjects for

investigation by the members. Subsequently, the institution assumed

the high scientific character which it yet holds.

In 1802, Count Rumford left England, and spent some time in travel.

Revisiting Munich, he found the workhouse which he had planned, and

which had been instrumental in producing so much good, abolished, and

the new elector, Maximilian, friendly indeed but indisposed to follow

the footsteps of his predecessor. Accordingly, after assisting in

modeling a Bavarian academy of sciences, he took farewell of his

adopted country, and went to reside in Paris, retaining an income of

about £1200 from the Bavarian court. At the same time his daughter

returned to America, her father having abandoned his intention of

returning along with her. In Paris, Count Rumford appears at first to

have gained the good-will and esteem which had attended him so

remarkably during his previous life; and not long after he began his

residence there, he contracted a second marriage with the widow of the

celebrated Lavoisier, put to death during the French Revolution. From

1804 to 1814 he resided with his wife at Auteuil, a villa at a short

distance from Paris, the property of Madame Lavoisier, and the scene

of many of her former husband’s discoveries. Here Rumford employed

himself in scientific pursuits of a miscellaneous nature. The union of

the American-born citizen of the world with the widow of the

illustrious Frenchman does not appear to have been a happy one; and

there is evidence that, towards the end of his life, Rumford had

become unpopular in Parisian society. Cuvier attributes this to a

certain coarseness and want of urbanity of manner; possibly, however,

the fault was less in the person criticised than in the Parisian

standard of criticism, for the charge seems inconsistent with the

tenor of Rumford’s life.

Rumford’s death took place at Auteuil on the 21st of August 1814, in

the sixty-second year of his age. He left some bequests for the

promotion of science in America; the rest of his property, which does

not appear to have been great, he left to his relatives. His only

daughter inherited the title of Countess of Rumford, with the

continuation of her father’s Bavarian pension. She is, we believe,

still alive, and has long resided in Paris.

Rumford, whose memoirs we have now detailed, was not a faultless

character, or a person in every respect exemplary; but making due

allowances for circumstances in which he was at the outset

unfortunately placed, and keeping in mind that every man is less or

more the creature of the age in which he lives, we arrive at the

conclusion, that few individuals occupying a public position have been

so thoroughly deserving of esteem. The practical, calm, and

comprehensive nature of his mind, his resolute and methodical habits,

the benevolence and usefulness of his projects, all excite our

admiration. Cuvier speaks of Rumford as ‘having been the benefactor of

his species without loving or esteeming them, as well as of holding

the opinion that the mass of mankind ought to be treated as mere

machines.’ A remark this which is applicable to not a few men who have

been eminent for labors of a humane description, and which naturally

gives rise to this other remark――that a good intellectual method,

directed to practical ends, is often of more value to mankind than

what is called a good heart.

The American Encyclopedia of History, Biography and Travel Comprising Ancient and Modern History: the Biography of Eminent Men of Europe and America, and the Lives of Distinguished Travelers. · 第 154 / 251 题