_The Roman Dress._
The ordinary garments of the Romans were the _toga_ and the _tunic_.
The _toga_ was a loose woollen robe, of a semicircular form, without
sleeves, open from the waist upwards, but closed from thence downwards,
and surrounding the limbs as far as the middle of the leg. The upper
part of the vest was drawn under the right arm, which was thus left
uncovered, and, passing over the left shoulder, was there gathered in a
knot, whence it fell in folds across the breast: this flap being tucked
into the girdle, formed a cavity which sometimes served as a pocket, and
was frequently used as a covering for the head. Its color was white,
except in case of mourning, when a black or dark color was worn. The
Romans were at great pains to adjust the toga and make it hang
gracefully.
It was at first worn by women as well as men--but afterwards matrons
wore a different robe, called _stola_, with a broad border or fringe,
reaching to the feet. Courtezans, and women condemned for adultery, were
not permitted to wear the _stola_--hence called _togatae_.
Roman citizens only were permitted to wear the _toga_, and banished
persons were prohibited the use of it. The _toga picta_ was so termed
from the rich embroidery with which it was covered:--the _toga palmata_
from its being wrought in figured palm leaves--this last was the
triumphal habit.
Young men, until they were seventeen years of age, and young women until
they were married, wore a gown bordered with purple, called the _toga
praetexta_.
After they had arrived at the age of seventeen, young men assumed the
_toga virilis_.
The _tunic_ was a white woollen vest worn below the _toga_, coming down
a little below the knees before, and to the middle of the leg behind, at
first without sleeves. _Tunics_ with sleeves were reckoned effeminate:
but under the emperors, these were used with fringes at the hands. The
_tunic_ was fastened by a girdle or belt about the waist, to keep it
tight, which also served as a purse.
The women wore a _tunic_ which came down to their feet and covered their
arms.
Senators had a broad stripe of purple, sewed on the breast of their
tunic, called _latus clavus_, which is sometimes put for the _tunic_
itself, or the dignity of a senator.
The _equites_ were distinguished by a narrow stripe called _angustus
clavus_.
The Romans wore neither stockings nor breeches, but used sometimes to
wrap their legs and thighs with pieces of cloth called from the parts
which they covered, _tibialia_ and _feminalia_.
The chief coverings for the feet were the _calceus_, which covered the
whole foot, somewhat like our shoes, and was tied above with a _latchet_
or lace, and the _solea_, a slipper or sandal which covered only the
sole of the foot, and was fastened on with leather thongs or strings.
The shoes of the senators came up to the middle of their legs, and had a
golden or silver crescent on the top of the foot. The shoes of the
soldiery were called _caligae_, sometimes shod with nails. Comedians wore
the _socci_ or slippers, and tragedians the _cothurni_.
The ancient Romans went with their heads bare except at sacred rites,
games, festivals, on journey or in war.--Hence, of all the honors
decreed to Caesar by the senate, he is said to have been chiefly pleased
with that of always wearing a laurel crown, because it covered his
baldness, which was reckoned a deformity. At games and festivals a
woollen cap or bonnet was worn.
The head-dress of women was at first very simple. They seldom went
abroad, and when they did they almost always had their faces veiled. But
when riches and luxury increased, dress became, with many, the chief
object of attention. They anointed their hair with the richest perfumes,
and sometimes gave it a bright yellow color, by means of a composition
or wash. It was likewise adorned with gold and pearls and precious
stones: sometimes with garlands and chaplets of flowers.