CHAPTER X

WISTARIA AND PÆONY

The last petals of the cherry blossoms have only just fallen, and

Nature hastens to provide a new treasure for the flower kingdom, and

the first blooms of the wistaria _Fuji no hana_ will be opening at

the base of the quickly growing racemes. Not the far-famed _Wistaria

multijuga_, whose immense long sprays of delicate mauve flowers are

so associated throughout the world with the name of Japan, but the

early-flowering wistaria, _Brachy botris_, with its tufts of white

blossoms completely covering the closely pruned branches before any

trace of a leaf appears. It would seem as if this modest white wistaria

had been allowed by nature to bloom so early, for fear she should be

overlooked and not appreciated when her more showy successor flings

her purple mantle over the land. The Royal Fuji, fancifully called

_Niki-so_, meaning “plant of the two seasons,” because, appearing

between the third and fourth months (old calendar), it belongs both to

spring and summer, has rightly attained her high rank among the floral

kingdom of Japan, for in no other country can be seen a restaurant set

out for the entertainment of perhaps a hundred guests, who will all

feast wrapped in the purple haze of a roof of wistaria blossoms, all

from a single vine.

Perhaps the most popular haunt of the pleasure-seeker in the month

of May is the celebrated Kameido Temple in Tokyo. Words fail me to

describe the beauty of the scene: it is a real feast of _fuji_;

the, long purple trails cover the large trellises, the wide rustic

galleries, and connect the little matted restaurants, where hosts

of people throughout the day sit feasting under the purple roof and

feeding the gold fish in the lake. The matted benches are set out on

a thick mauve carpet of fallen blossoms, and the little maids seem to

have a never-ending task in sweeping away great heaps of the freshly

fallen flowers, as though fearing that their guests will be smothered

by them. No one seems to know so wisely as the Japanese in what

surroundings to plant their flowers, so as to show them to their best

advantage. Wistaria seems always to be grown near water, so that the

trellis which is to bear its flower burden can be built out over the

water. So it is at Kameido; and as I sat surrounded, almost smothered,

by the blossoms, inhaling their delicious scent and listening to the

droning of the bees, I could gaze across the water at the reflection

of a never-ending vista of mauve blossoms reaching on one side to the

celebrated round wooden bridge, the delight of children, who seemed

to cross it in one ceaseless stream, and on the other to the fine old

temple, where a few ancient pine-trees are placed just where they will

best harmonise with the long purple blossoms. The late sweet-scented

white variety will prolong the _fuji_ season by a few days; their glory

is but short-lived, a few days and then their colour begins to fade,

the leaves appear among the blossoms, and their beauty is gone. I felt

if I wanted to see wistaria again that year I must fly to the northern

provinces, where the bean-scented blossoms will soon be clothing the

forest trees. I turned away sadly, not forgetting the Japanese theory

that the wistaria loves _saké_. So strong is their belief, that I was

told that if you set a jar of the wine under the plant, its spray will

grow longer from its desire to reach the jar; so I ordered my

[Illustration: WISTARIA, KAMEIDO]

little cup of _saké_, sipped it, and then emptied the cup on the roots,

according to their custom, hoping that I too might help to contribute

to its great size and beauty.

Very lovely is the scene at Kashukabe, where another famous wistaria

grows. The vine is said to be some five hundred years old, its pendent

clusters over 50 inches long and growing over trellises covering a

space of 4000 feet. Noda in the province of Settsu is also celebrated

for its wistaria, and a special variety has been named after the place.

The cultivation of _Wistaria multijuga_, with its racemes from two to

three feet in length, and the individual flowers having a lip of darker

purple, seems to belong more especially to the eastern provinces. And

it must not be imagined that _all_ wistaria in Japan has these immense

long sprays. In the whole neighbourhood of Kyoto I know of only two

fine specimens of _multijuga_, and all the wild variety seems to be

_Wistaria chinensis_, with its tufts of shorter racemes.

Towards the end of the first week in May I made a pilgrimage to see

the wistaria blossoms in Kasuga Park at Nara, and I shall never forget

the enjoyment of that day, the blessed relief of being able to find a

quiet spot away from the gazing crowd, in which to ramble or sit and

enjoy the scene. The vines have clambered to the top of many of the

tallest pines and cryptomerias, and their blossoms hang in wreaths;

in the distance the effect was suggestive of smoke rising among the

trees. Many of the lower trees seemed to have been completely taken

possession of by the trespasser, and the dead branches transformed into

big bouquets of pale mauve. How far more beautiful were these natural

supports than the somewhat unsightly bamboo poles which usually form

the trellis for the vines. Little glades, down which winds a tiny clear

stream, divide the ground, and the banks were covered with these old

trees, completely smothered by the weight of blossom. Often the vine

seemed not content with covering a single tree, but had thrown out long

branches beyond, which, fallen to the ground, had rooted and then risen

again to find a fresh prey, thus forming a double arch wreathed with

purple tassels. This park is one of the few places in Japan where there

is real turf, closely cropped by the herd of deer, and in the open

spaces broad stretches of brilliant-coloured _Azalea sinensis_ added to

the enchantment of the scene and formed a perfect foreground.

To the Japanese mind the _fuji_ is essentially feminine, and they

find in the wistaria their ideal of woman,--the Japanese woman--whose

charm of temperament and whose beauty has been so praised. It is a

pretty idea, and it is not difficult to understand their ideal of woman

when one observes how the wistaria clings to the undaunted pine, and

how gently she falls down, easily moved by a breath of wind and yet

firmly holding her own place. The wistaria is regarded as the emblem

of gentleness and obedience, and these are the keynotes of a Japanese

woman’s character.

The young tender leaves of wistaria are sometimes eaten, and also used

in the place of tea; and the flowers themselves are used for food in

some parts of China. The seeds baked in the fire have very much the

same flavour as that of a chestnut. The bark is used for ropes and

sandals; and its branches are used, it is said, as cables, and also for

bridge-making, as it is supposed that there is nothing more durable

than a wistaria bridge. Japanese antiquarians will tell you that in

olden times, before carpenters’ tools had been invented, the dwellings

of the people in Japan were constructed of young trees with the bark

left on, fastened together with ropes made of the tough shoots of

wistaria, and thatched with the grass called _kava_. _Fuji_ appears to

be a real Japanese flower, though in the Western countries it is called

wistaria, in honour of Caspar Wistar, an American physician.

One of the most celebrated classical _No_ dances of Japan has wistaria

as its theme. The little square boxes in front of the stage, with

its long gallery or bridge (along which the _No_ actors make their

entrances and exits), are filled by the audience, apparently patiently

waiting in quiet, somewhat sleepy expectancy. The long piercing sound

of flutes mingled with the curiously sad rhythm of _Tsuzumi_ drums

has ceased; and the high distinct declamation of the libretto begins.

The priest, who is a necessary part of any _No_ dance, is the first

to appear on the stage; he is supposed to reach Taka no Ura in the

province of Ecchu, a place famous for wistaria, and here he meets a

country girl who in a short time will reappear as the spirit of the

wistaria; she entreats him to pray for her, so that through the virtue

of his prayer her flower spirit may enter into Nirvana or Paradise;

doubtless the spirit of the last flower of spring is not able to

release herself from the world to attain Buddhistic perfection, so she

hates to say her quick

[Illustration: WISTARIA, NAGAOKA]

farewell to spring. Presently the flower spirit, arrayed in gorgeous

purple brocade, dances her last spring dance, and then, after receiving

the priest’s repeated prayer, she will disappear with joy. So ends the

_No_ play, so full of emblematical meaning to the minds of the Japanese.

The wistaria and pæony seem to be closely associated, as not only do

they flower at the same time and many gardens seem devoted to their

combined culture, but just as in Japanese literature the wistaria is

an emblem of womanhood, so in Chinese literature the pæony is compared

to a beautiful woman. The pæony seems to be a plant of Chinese origin,

and though it can hardly be classed as one of the most popular flowers

of Japan, it plays an important part in the art of the country. The

tree pæony is a delicate plant and requires scrupulous care and nursing

in order that its blooms should attain their full size and colour. It

is regarded as essentially the rich man’s flower, and therefore it is

often called the “flower of prosperity”; another fancy name by which

it is known is the “plant of twenty days,” because it will preserve

its freshness and beauty for that time. The celebrated garden at

Honjo in Tokyo combines the cultivation of _botan_ (tree pæony) with

that of wistaria. A fine old vine of _multijuga_ overhangs the pond;

but one of the especial features of the garden is the cultivation of

wistarias in pots and tubs--some grand old plants, flowering as though

they would flower themselves to death. Others there were of all sizes

and shapes; some bent and leaning, some bearing veritable canopies of

blossoms; some pure white, some the pale mauve _sinensis_, and others

the deeper-coloured _multijuga_.

My first visit to “view the pæonies” was rather a disappointment to

me, as, in order to protect the blooms from heavy rain or wind storms,

the plants are all placed under the cover of temporary matting sheds.

They seemed mostly to be grown in pots, and the effect of these rows

of plants, each with its large and heavy blossoms supported by bamboo

stakes, was somewhat stiff and prim. A few stray plants there were,

which, possibly for some slight defect in the shape or colour of the

blooms, had not been included in the show collection; and to the

uninitiated these gave most pleasure, left standing in the open, their

colour blending harmoniously with that of the wistaria blossoms. The

pæony gardens seemed no haunt for the holiday-maker, but rather for the

serious-minded gardener, who, truly interested in their culture, would

spend

[Illustration: A PÆONY GARDEN]

hours in quiet contemplation of the plants, discussing the merits of

the different varieties with some fellow-enthusiast. There were some

hundred different kinds of the tree pæony. The most prized ones were

all either pure white blossoms, or those whose colour ranged from pale

pink to red,--quite rightly, however rare they may be, the purple-hued

and yellow are less valued. Many a private garden belonging to the

rich has its pæony show, and the plants are mostly brought from the

neighbourhood of Nara, which is celebrated for its pæony gardens. And

the gardens at Kabata are also famous for their blooms; where too may

be seen the combination of the _fuji_ flowers covering long trellises

and the little standard trees growing along the margin of the stream,

their pendent trails reflected in the water, softening as it were the

gorgeous splendour of the flaunting pæony blossoms.

There is no more gorgeous floral sight than the pæony with its

tremendous curling petals; but a Japanese artist told me that its

fulness in splendour made those with a better poetical fancy and more

quiet taste dislike it and think the beauty of the pæony to be even

vulgar. Japan is nothing if she be not light and airy, and therefore

the Japanese consider flowers with more delicate grace to be more

artistic; so the pæony has little chance to become their favourite

flower, its beauty is too heavy. It has found, however, some admirers

among the poets of Western Japan. In comparison to the people of the

eastern provinces the inhabitants of Osaka and Kyoto are said to be

more showy in their taste, their art is heavier, so the pæony is called

the Western Flower of Japan. If you compare China and Japan, the

former’s taste in art is more decorative and heavier, and remember what

a favourite the pæony is as a decoration for their priceless porcelain.

The variety of pæony known as _Pæonia sinensis_, the true Chinese

pæony, does not seem to be much regarded in Japan, and little attention

seems to be given to its cultivation.

The _botan_ calls to mind the pæony lantern, and the pæony lantern or

_botan toro_ is suggestive of the Buddhist festival of _Bon_ (from July

13-16), when the great gates of Hades will open wide, and those dead

souls who are still wandering about, being unable to enter Nirvana,

will come back again to receive their relatives’ prayers, by whose

virtue they may get their final rest. So this festival is universally

called the Soul Festival: in literature it is closely connected with

ghosts. The theatres will all play “ghost plays,” as, of course, the

story of the pæony lantern is a ghost story.

A beautiful girl called O Tsuyu was the daughter of a certain samurai

Ijima San, who lived apart from her father with her faithful maid O

Yone. She happened to love Shinzaburo Ogihara, a young samurai, and

died of love, and her maid followed her. Ogihara did not know of their

death. He observed one summer evening that two young women--who were O

Tsuyu and O Yone--passed before the gate of his house, carrying pæony

lanterns in their hands, and he welcomed them. During the following

seven nights O Tsuyu called on him at night with her usual pæony

lantern in hand; and then Shinzaburo was told by his friend that she

was not a living person, but a ghost. He appealed to some holy priest

to protect him from the ghost. The priest gave him some charm to hang

at his door; and when the charm one night was taken away, Ogihara was

found dead the next morning.

There is a rather charming ghost story of the pæony which is of Chinese

origin; the story is called the Ko Gyoku or Incense Jewel. Kaseikyu

of Rozan, of fairy beauty, is famous for its pæonies. In Kaseikyu

there lived a young scholar called Kosei. He was looking out of his

window one day, and to his amazement he observed a beautiful young lady

dressed in white who stood among the pæonies; he saw her so often that

he fell in love with her, and wrote a love-song dedicated to her fair

soul. Then she appeared as in a dream to him one day and said, “My name

is Ko Gyoku; I was brought here from the city of Heiko, and my life is

not without sadness.” They promised to love each other, they continued

to meet every day, till one day Ko Gyoku told him sadly that she had

to go away; and the next morning, strange to say, Kosei observed that

the pæonies in the garden had disappeared. Was she not the spirit of

one of the pæonies? He passed day and night in sad dreams and with many

tears, thinking over his unhappy fate in love. To his surprise Ko Gyoku

appeared after a long time, and they held each other’s hands, but the

man found the lady’s hand cold. Ko Gyoku said, “Yesterday I was the

living spirit of the flower, but to-day I am merely the ghost. My body

is cold, the flower is dead.” However, she was to his eyes as beautiful

as before. She continued, “If you will be kind enough to give a cupful

of water to the roots of

[Illustration: WISTARIA, KABATA]

the old pæonies every day, you will receive a reward in due course of

time,” and disappeared. Kosei found the next morning that new sprouts

were beginning to come out from the old roots.

The pæony was introduced into Japan from China in the eighth century,

but failed to gain universal popularity, on account of the difficulty

of cultivating it successfully; but the Rich Man’s Flower came to

be regarded as the king of flowers, and therefore the lion and the

peacock, the kings of the animal world, are its companions in art. They

are always painted together in the decoration of a temple or palace

wall, and when lions dance on the Japanese stage they always have a

gorgeous background of pæonies. There may be more of myth than truth in

the pretty story of Ichinenko, a kind of pæony, whose flowers turned

crimson when Yo Ki Hi (the beloved mistress of the Emperor Genso,

famous in Chinese history in connection with the pæony) accidentally

touched the petals of the flower with her rouged finger-tips, when she

appeared in the garden after finishing her morning toilette.

So strong is the feeling among Japanese poets that the flower is

lacking in any poetical grace, that the _Hokku_[2] poet Hyoroku

remarks in his Essay on a Hundred Flowers, “The pæony is like the

mistress glorified in one’s love, who acts as she pleases without any

consideration for another’s feeling. It has such an attitude, as if it

spit out a rainbow into the blue sky.” The poet Bushon, who has written

more lines on the pæony than any other poet, says--

Niji wo haite

Hirakanto suru

Botan hana.

(Spitting forth a rainbow

Is about to bloom

The pæony flower.)

[2] _Hokku_ is a poem of seventeen syllables.

The flowers and gardens of Japan · 第 10 / 18 章