[Illustration: Mount Assiniboine.]
CAMPING IN THE
CANADIAN ROCKIES
AN ACCOUNT OF CAMP LIFE IN THE WILDER PARTS OF THE CANADIAN ROCKY
MOUNTAINS, TOGETHER WITH A DESCRIPTION OF THE REGION ABOUT BANFF, LAKE
LOUISE, AND GLACIER, AND A SKETCH OF THE EARLY EXPLORATIONS
BY
WALTER DWIGHT WILCOX
[Illustration]
WITH TWENTY-FIVE FULL-PAGE PHOTOGRAVURES, AND MANY TEXT ILLUSTRATIONS
FROM PHOTOGRAPHS BY THE AUTHOR
G. P. PUTNAM’S SONS
NEW YORK
27 West Twenty-third Street
LONDON
24 Bedford Street, Strand
_The Knickerbocker Press_
1896
Copyright, 1896
BY
G. P. PUTNAM’S SONS
_Entered at Stationers’ Hall, London_
_The Knickerbocker Press, New York_
[Illustration]
PREFACE.
The Canadian Rocky Mountains offer exceptional attractions to those who
enjoy natural scenery, sport, and camp life. Few regions of the world
combining mountain, lake, and forest scenery possess the additional
advantage of a delightful summer climate, such as obtains in the
Canadian Rockies.
The extremely wild character of this part of the Rocky Mountains, and
the very short time since it was opened up to travellers, are probably,
in great part, the reasons for the lack of literature and the absence of
any thoroughly illustrated publication concerning this region.
During a period of four years, the author has made camping excursions
into many of the wilder parts of the mountains and effected a
considerable number of ascents. An excellent camera has been an almost
inseparable companion in every excursion, so that photographs of the
typical scenery have been obtained from every possible point of view.
Moreover, throughout all the processes of photographing, no expense of
time or labor has been spared in order to obtain true and artistic
representations of nature. Nor have these results been obtained without
considerable sacrifice, for in many cases the proper light effects on
lakes and forests required hours of delay, and frequently, on lofty
mountain summits, high winds made it necessary to anchor the camera with
stones; while the cold and exposure of those high altitudes made the
circumstances unfavorable for successful work.
A map is not included in the volume, as, owing to the wildness of the
country, there are no detailed maps covering this region that are
entirely satisfactory. The best map, and, in fact, the only one
available, is published in Dr. Dawson’s _Preliminary Report_ on this
part of the Rocky Mountains.
The author makes grateful acknowledgment of the assistance received from
many friends in the preparation of this book. Special thanks are due to
Prof. J. H. Gore, of Columbian University, and to the Hon. Chas. D.
Walcott, Director of the United States Geological Survey, for the
valuable aid and information given by them; to M. Guillaume La Mothe for
an interesting letter concerning the first exploration of the Fraser
River; and to Sir William Van Horne for the many courtesies extended.
W. D. W.
Washington, D.C., July, 1896.
[Illustration]
[Illustration]
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I.
_Banff—Its Location—The Village—Tourists—Hotels—Topography of the
Region—Rundle and Cascade Mountains—The Devil’s Lake—Sir George
Simpson’s Journey to this Region—Peechee the Indian Guide—An
Indian Legend—The Missionary Rundle—Dr. Hector—The Climate of
Banff—A Summer Snow-Storm—The Mountains in Winter_ 1-15
CHAPTER II.
_Lake Louise—First Impressions—An Abode of Perpetual Winter—The
Chalet—Visitors—Stirring Tales of Adventure—Primeval
Forests—Forest Fires—Mosquitoes and Bull-Dog Flies—Mortal Combats
between Wasps and Bull-dogs—The Old Chalet—Morning on the
Lake—Approach of a Storm—Sublimity of a Mountain
Thunder-Storm—Cloud Effects—The Lake in October—A Magnificent
Avalanche from Mount Lefroy—A Warning of Approaching Winter_ 16-35
CHAPTER III.
_Surroundings of the Lake—Position of Mountains and Valleys—The
Spruce and Balsam Firs—The Lyall’s Larch—Alpine Flowers—The Trail
among the Cliffs—The Beehive, a Monument of the Past—Lake Agnes, a
Lake of Solitude—Summit of the Beehive—Lake Louise in the Distant
Future_ 36-46
CHAPTER IV.
_Organizing a Party for the Mountains—Our Plans for the
Summer—William Twin and Tom Chiniquy—Nature, Habits, and Dress of
the Stoney Indians—An Excursion on the Glacier—The Surface Debris
and its Origin—Snow Line—Ascent of the Couloir—A Terrible
Accident—Getting Down—An Exhausting Return for Aid—Hasty
Organization of a Rescue Party—Cold and Miserable Wait on the
Glacier—Unpleasant Surmises—“I Think You Die”—A Fortunate
Termination_ 47-64
CHAPTER V.
_Castle Crags—Early Morning on the Mountain Side—View from the
Summit—Ascent of the Aiguille—An Avalanche of Rocks—A Glorious
Glissade—St. Piran—Its Alpine Flowers and Butterflies—Expedition
to an Unexplored Valley—A Thirsty Walk through the
Forest—Discovery of a Mountain Torrent—A Lake in the Forest—A
Mountain Amphitheatre—The Saddle—Impressive View of Mount
Temple—Summit of Great Mountain—An Ascent in Vain—A Sudden Storm
in the High Mountains—Phenomenal Fall of Temperature—Grand Cloud
Effects_ 65-83
CHAPTER VI.
_Paradise Valley—The Mitre Glacier—Air Castles—Climbing to the
Col—Dark Ice Caverns—Mountain Sickness—Grandeur of the
Rock-Precipices on Mount Lefroy—Summit of the Col at Last—A
Glorious Vision of a New and Beautiful Valley—A Temple of
Nature—Sudden Change of Weather—Temptation to Explore the New
Valley—A Precipitate Descent—Sudden Transition from Arctic to
Temperate Conditions—Delightful Surroundings—Weary
Followers—Overtaken by Night—A Bivouac in the Forest—Fire in the
Forest—Indian Sarcasm_ 84-100
CHAPTER VII.
_The Wild Character of Paradise Valley—Difficulties with
Pack-Horses—A Remarkable Accident—Our Camp and Surroundings—Animal
Friends—Midsummer Flowers—Desolation Valley—Ascent of Hazel
Peak—An Alpine Lake in a Basin of Ice—First Attempt to Scale Mount
Temple—Our Camp by a Small Lake—A Wild and Stormy Night—An
Impassable Barrier—A Scene of Utter Desolation—All Nature
Sleeps—Difficulties of Ascent—The Highest Point yet Reached in
Canada—Paradise Valley in Winter—Farewell to Lake Louise_ 101-118
CHAPTER VIII.
_The Selkirks—Geographical Position of the Range—Good Cheer of the
Glacier House—Charming Situation—Comparison between the Selkirks
and Rockies—Early Mountain Ascents—Density of the Forest—Ascent of
Eagle Peak—A Magnificent Panorama—A Descent in the
Darkness—Account of a Terrible Experience on Eagle Peak—Trails
through the Forest—Future Popularity of the Selkirks—The Forest
Primeval—An Epitome of Human Life—Age of Trees—Forests Dependent
on Humidity_ 119-136
CHAPTER IX.
_Mount Assiniboine—Preparations for Visiting it—Camp at Heely’s
Creek—Crossing the Simpson Pass—Shoot a Pack-Horse—A Delightful
Camp—A Difficult Snow Pass—Burnt Timber—Nature Sounds—Discovery of
a Beautiful Lake—Inspiring View of Mount Assiniboine—Our Camp at
the Base of the Mountain—Summer Snow-Storms—Inaccessibility of
Mount Assiniboine_ 137-157
CHAPTER X.
_Evidence of Game—Discovery of a Mountain Goat—A Long Hunt—A
Critical Moment—A Terrible Fall—An Unpleasant Experience—Habitat
of the Mountain Goat—A Change of Weather—A Magnificent
Panorama—Set out to Explore the Mountain—Intense Heat of a Forest
Fire—Struggling with Burnt Timber—A Mountain Bivouac—Hope and
Despair—Success at Last—Short Rations—Topography of Mount
Assiniboine—The Vermilion River—A Wonderful Canyon—Fording the Bow
River_ 158-182
CHAPTER XI.
_The Waputehk Range—Height of the Mountains—Vast Snow Fields and
Glaciers—Journey up the Bow—Home of a Prospector—Causes and
Frequency of Forest Fires—A Visit to the Lower Bow Lake—Muskegs—A
Mountain Flooded with Ice—Delightful Scenes at the Upper Bow
Lake—Beauty of the Shores—Lake Trout—The Great Bow Glacier_
183-204
CHAPTER XII.
_Sources of the Bow—The Little Fork Pass—Magnificence of the
Scenery—Mount Murchison—Camp on the Divide—A High Mountain
Ascent—Future of the Bow Lakes—Return down the Bow—Search for a
Pass—Remarkable Agility of Pack-Horses—The “Bay” and the
“Pinto”—Mountain Solitudes—Mount Hector—Difficult Nature of
Johnston Creek—A Blinding Snow-Storm—Forty-Mile Creek—Mount Edith
Pass_ 205-219
CHAPTER XIII.
HISTORICAL.
_Origin and Rise of the Fur Trade—The Coureurs des Bois and the
Voyageurs—Perils of the Canoe Voyages—The Hudson Bay Company and
the Northwest Company—Intense Rivalry—Downfall of the Northwest
Company—Sir Alexander Mackenzie—His Character and Physical
Endowments—Cook’s Explorations—Mackenzie Starts to Penetrate the
Rockies—The Peace River—A Marvellous Escape—The Pacific Reached by
Land—Perils of the Sea and of the Wilderness_ 220-236
CHAPTER XIV.
HISTORICAL.
_Captain Cook’s Explorations—The American Fur Company—First
Exploration of the Fraser River—Expedition of Ross
Cox—Cannibalism—Simplicity of a Voyageur—Sir George Simpson’s
Journey—Discovery of Gold in 1858—The Palliser Expedition—Dr.
Hector’s Adventures—Milton and Cheadle—Growth of the
Dominion—Railroad Surveys—Construction of the Railroad—Historical
Periods—Future Popularity of the Canadian Rockies_ 237-257
CHAPTER XV.
_The Pleasures of the Natural Sciences—Interior of the
Earth—Thickness of the Crust—Origin and Cause of Mountains—Their
Age and Slow Growth—System in Mountain Arrangement—The Cordilleran
System—The Canadian Rockies—Comparison with Other Mountain
Regions—Climate—Cause of Chinook Winds—Effect of High Latitude on
Sun and Moon—Principal Game Animals—Nature of the Forests—Mountain
Lakes—Camp Experiences—Effect on the Character_ 258-275
Index 277-283
[Illustration]
[Illustration]
FULL-PAGE PHOTOGRAVURES.
Page
Mount Assiniboine _Frontispiece_
Banff Springs Hotel 4
Bow River and Cascade Mountain 10
Lake Louise 18
Mount Lefroy and Mirror Lake 38
Lake Agnes (In early July, 1895) 42
Tom Chiniquy (By courtesy of Mr. S. B. Thompson, New Westminster, B.
C.) 50
Mount Temple, from the Saddle 78
Discovery of Paradise Valley 92
Camp in Paradise Valley 108
Mount Sir Donald, from Eagle Peak 126
Head of Rocky Mountain Sheep 132
North Lake 152
Summit Lake, near Mount Assiniboine 154
Head of Rocky Mountain Goat (Shot July 18, 1895) 164
The Waputehk Range (Looking across the range from near Hector) 184
Mount Daly 192
Upper Bow Lake (Looking east) 196
Upper Bow Lake (Looking west) 200
Source of the Little Fork of the Saskatchewan River 206
Storm in Little Fork Valley 208
Mount Hector and Slate Mountains (From summit of a mountain near
Little Fork Pass, 10,125 feet in altitude) 210
Camp at Little Fork Pass 212
Upper Bow Lake (Looking south) 270
Emerald Lake and Mount Field 272
[Illustration]
[Illustration]
ILLUSTRATIONS IN THE TEXT.
PAGE
Rundle Mountain and Bow River 15
Lake Louise (Looking toward chalet) 31
Anemones 40
A Cool Retreat in the Forest 75
Summit of Mount Temple 115
Glacier House 120
Peyto 140
Packing the Buckskin 142
Calypso 143
Approaching the Pass 149
North Lake (Looking northwest) 157
Haunt of the Mountain Goat 165
Mount Assiniboine (From northwest) 167
Lake on Vermilion Pass 181
Ready to March 186
Camp at Upper Bow Lake 202
The “Bay” 214
Falls of Leanchoil 249
[Illustration]
CAMPING IN
THE CANADIAN ROCKIES.
CHAPTER I.
_Banff—Its Location—The Village—Tourists—Hotels—Topography of the
Region—Rundle and Cascade Mountains—The Devil’s Lake—Sir George
Simpson’s Journey to this Region—Peechee the Indian Guide—An Indian
Legend—The Missionary Rundle—Dr. Hector—The Climate of Banff—A Summer
Snow-Storm—The Mountains in Winter._
The principal resort of tourists and sportsmen in the Rocky Mountains of
Canada is Banff. The location of the town or village of Banff might be
briefly described as being just within the eastern-most range of the
Rocky Mountains, about one hundred and fifty miles north of the
International boundary, or where the Canadian Pacific Railway begins to
pierce the complex system of mountains which continue from this point
westward to the Pacific coast.
Banff is likewise the central or focal point of the Canadian National
Park. There is so much of scenic interest and natural beauty in the
surrounding mountains and valleys, that an area of some two hundred and
sixty square miles has been reserved in this region by the government
and laid out with fine roads and bridle-paths to points of special
interest. Order is enforced by a body of men known as the Northwest
Mounted Police, a detachment of which is stationed at Banff. This
organization has been wonderfully effective for many years past in
preserving the authority of the laws throughout the vast extent of
northwestern Canada by means of a number of men that seems altogether
insufficient for that purpose.
The small and scattered village of Banff occupies a flat plain near the
Bow River. This large stream, the south branch of the Saskatchewan, one
of the greatest rivers of North America, is at this point not only deep
and swift but fully one hundred yards in width. A fine iron bridge spans
the river and leads to the various hotels all of which are south of the
village. The permanent population numbers some half thousand, while the
various stores, dwellings, and churches have a general air of neatness
and by their new appearance suggest the fact that the history of Banff
extends back only one decade.
During the summer season, the permanent population of Banff is sometimes
nearly doubled by a great invasion of tourists and travellers from far
distant regions. Overland tourists from India, China, Ceylon, and
England, the various countries of Europe and the Dominion of Canada, but
chiefly from the United States, form the greater part of this
cosmopolitan assemblage, in which, however, almost every part of the
globe is occasionally represented. Some are bent on sport with rod or
gun; others on mountaineering or camping expeditions, but the great
majority are en route to distant countries and make Banff a
stopping-place for a short period.
Arrived at Banff, the traveller is confronted by a line of hack drivers
and hotel employes shouting in loud voices the names and praises of
their various hotels. Such sights and sounds are a blessed relief to the
tourist, who for several days has witnessed nothing but the boundless
plains and scanty population of northwestern Canada. The chorus of rival
voices seems almost a welcome back to civilization, and reminds one in a
mild degree of some railroad station in a great metropolis. On the
contrary, the new arrival finds, as he is whirled rapidly toward his
hotel in the coach, that he is in a mere country village surrounded on
all sides by high mountains, with here and there patches of perpetual
snow near their lofty summits.
Though the surrounding region, the adjacent mountains, and valleys
represent nature in a wild and almost primitive state, one may remain at
Banff attended by all the comforts of civilization. The several hotels
occupy more or less scattered points in the valley south from the
village. The one built and managed by the railroad stands apart from the
village on an eminence overlooking the Bow River. It is a magnificent
structure capable of accommodating a large number of guests. From the
verandas and porches one may obtain a fine panoramic view of the
surrounding mountains, and on the side towards the river the view
combines water, forest, and mountain scenery in a most pleasing manner.
The Bow River, some three hundred feet below, comes in from the left and
dashes in a snowy cascade through a rocky gorge, then, sweeping away
towards the east, is joined by the Spray River, a mad mountain torrent
deep and swift, but clear as crystal, and with cold water of that deep
blue color indicating its mountain origin. The wonderful rapidity with
which these mountain streams flow is a source of astonishment and wonder
to those familiar only with the sluggish rivers of lowland regions.
Standing on the little iron bridge which carries the road across the
stream and looking down on the water, I have often imagined I was at the
stern of an ocean greyhound, so rapidly does each ripple or inequality
sweep under and away from the eye. Though the water is less than a yard
in depth, the current moves under the bridge at the rate of from nine to
ten miles an hour.
The best point from which to get a good general idea of the topography
of Banff and its surroundings is from the summit of a little hill known
as Tunnel Mountain. It is centrally located in the wide valley of the
Bow, above which it rises exactly 1000 feet, an altitude great enough to
make it appear a high mountain were it not dwarfed by its mighty
neighbors. The view from the summit is not of exceeding grandeur, but is
well worth the labor of the climb, especially as a good path, with
occasional seats for the weary, makes the walk an easy one. The top of
the mountain is still far below the tree line, though the earth is too
thin to nourish a rich forest. The soil was all carried away in the Ice
Age, for there are abundant proofs that this mountain was once flooded
by a glacier coming down the Bow valley. The bare limestone of the
summit is grooved in great channels pointing straight up the Bow valley.
In some places scratches made by the ice are visible, and there are many
quartz boulders strewed about which have been carried here from some
distant region.
[Illustration: Banff Springs Hotel.]
The meandering course of the Bow River, the village, the hay meadows and
grassy swamps, all form a pretty picture in the flat valley below. The
eastern face of Tunnel Mountain is wellnigh perpendicular. The trail
leads along near the summit and allows thrilling views down the sheer
precipice to the flat valley of the Bow River far below. The trees and
prominent objects of the landscape seem like toys, and the adjacent
plains resemble a colored map. There are no houses or dwellings in view
on this side, but a drove of horses grazing contentedly in a pasture
near the river, awaiting their turn to be sent out into the mountains in
the pack train of some sportsman or mountaineer, gives life and
animation to the scene. On either side are two high mountains,
conspicuous by their unusual outlines and great altitude. The one to the
south is Rundle Mountain. It rises in a great curving slope on its west
side, and terminates in a rugged escarpment with precipitous cliffs to
the east, which tower in wonderful grandeur more than 5000 feet above
the flood plains of the Bow River near its base.
On the opposite side is Cascade Mountain, which is remarkable in being
of almost identical height, and is in fact just two feet lower, as
determined by the topographical survey. The name of this mountain was
given by reason of a large stream which falls from ledge to ledge down
the cliffs of its eastern face in a beautiful cascade. Both this and
Rundle Mountain are composed of the old Devonian and Carboniferous
limestones, the strata of which are plainly visible. The structure is
that of a great arch or anticline which has been completely overturned,
so that the older beds are above the newer. Several miles towards the
east, the end of Devil’s Lake may be seen appearing through a notch in
the mountains. A fine road nine miles in length has been made to this
lake and is one of the most popular drives in the vicinity of Banff. The
lake is very long and narrow, about nine miles in length by three
fourths of a mile in extreme breadth. The scenery is grand, but rather
desolate, as the bare mountain walls on either side of the lake are not
relieved by forests or abundant vegetation of any kind. The lake is,
however, a great resort for sportsmen as it abounds in large trout, of
which one taken last year weighed thirty-four pounds. The name of the
lake gives illustration of the tendency among savages and civilized
people to dedicate prominent objects of nature to the infernal regions
or the master spirit thereof. There is no apparent limit to the number
of places named after the Devil and his realm, while the names suggested
by more congenial places are conspicuous by their absence. The original
name, Lake Peechee, was given by Sir George Simpson in honor of his
guide.
The scattered threads of history which relate to this part of the Rocky
Mountains are suggested by these names and indeed this lake has an
unusual interest for this reason. In a region where explorations have
been very few and far between, and where only the vague traditions of
warlike events among the Indians form a great part of the history, each
fragment and detail set forth by the old explorers acquires an increased
interest.
Previous to the arrival of the railroad surveyors, the chief men on whom
our attention centres are Sir George Simpson, Mr. Rundle, and Dr.
Hector.
The expedition of Sir George Simpson possesses much of interest in every
way. He claims to have been the first man to accomplish an overland
journey around the world from east to west. After having traversed the
greater part of the continent of North America, he entered the
stupendous gates of the Rocky Mountains in the autumn of 1841. He
travelled with wonderful rapidity, and was wont to cover from twenty to
sixty miles a day, according to the nature of the country. His outfit
consisted of a large band of horses, about forty-five in number,
attended by cooks and packers sufficient for the needs of this great
expedition. Nevertheless the long cavalcade of animals, when spread out
in Indian file along the narrow trails were difficult to manage, and it
not infrequently happened that on reaching camp several horses proved to
be missing, a fact which would necessitate some of the men returning
fifteen or twenty miles in search of them.
Passing to the south of the Devil’s Head, a remarkable and conspicuous
mountain which may be recognized far out on the plains, Sir George
Simpson entered the valley occupied by the lake. In this part of his
journey he was guided by a half-breed Indian named Peechee, a chief of
the Mountain Crees. Peechee lived with his wife and family on the
borders of this lake, and Simpson named it after him, a name, however,
which never gained currency. Dr. Dawson transferred the name to a high
mountain south of the lake, and substituted the Indian name of
Minnewanka, or in English, Devil’s Lake.
The guide Peechee seems to have possessed much influence among his
fellows, and whenever, as was often the case, the Indians gathered
around their camp-fires and gossiped about their adventures, Peechee was
listened to with the closest attention on the part of all. Nothing more
delights the Indians than to indulge their passion for idle talk when
assembled together, especially when under the soothing and peaceful
influence of tobacco,—a fact that seems strange indeed to those who see
them only among strangers, where they are wont to be remarkably silent.
A circumstance of Indian history connected with the east end of the lake
is mentioned by Sir George Simpson, and admirably illustrates the nature
of savage warfare. A Cree and his wife, a short time previously, had
been tracked and pursued by five Indians of a hostile tribe into the
mountains to a point near the lake. At length they were espied and
attacked by their pursuers. Terrified by the fear of almost certain
death, the Cree advised his wife to submit without defending herself.
She, however, was possessed of a more courageous spirit, and replied
that as they were young and had but one life to lose they had better put
forth every effort in self-defence. Accordingly she raised her rifle and
brought down the foremost warrior with a well aimed shot. Her husband
was now impelled by desperation and shame to join the contest, and
mortally wounded two of the advancing foe with arrows. There were now
but two on each side. The fourth warrior had, however, by this time
reached the Cree’s wife and with upraised tomahawk was on the point of
cleaving her head, when his foot caught in some inequality of the ground
and he fell prostrate. With lightning stroke the undaunted woman buried
her dagger in his side. Dismayed by this unexpected slaughter of his
companions, the fifth Indian took to flight after wounding the Cree in
his arm.
Rundle Mountain, which has been already mentioned and which forms one of
the most striking mountains in the vicinity of Banff, is named after a
Wesleyan missionary who for many years carried on his pious labors among
the Indians in the vicinity of Edmonton. Mr. Rundle once visited this
region and remained camped for a considerable time near the base of
Cascade Mountain, probably shortly after Sir George Simpson explored
this region. The work of Mr. Rundle among the Indians appears to have
been highly successful, if one may judge by the present condition of the
Stoneys, who are honest, truthful, and but little given to the vices of
civilization. Even to this day the visitor may see them at Banff dressed
in partly civilized, partly savage attire, or on rare occasions decked
out in all the feathers and beaded belts and moccasins that go to make
up the sum total of savage splendor.
Our attention comes at last to Dr. Hector, who was connected with the
Palliser expedition. It is exceedingly unfortunate that the blue-book in
which the vast amount of useful information and interesting adventure
connected with this expedition is so clearly set forth should be now
almost out of print. There are no available copies in the United States
or Canada and but very few otherwise accessible. Dr. Hector followed up
the Bow River and passed the region now occupied by Banff in the year
1858. He was accompanied by the persevering and ever popular botanist,
Bourgeau. Under the magic spell of close observation and clear
description, the most commonplace affairs assume an unusual interest in
all of Dr. Hector’s reports. It is very evident that game was much more
abundant in those early days than at present. For instance, Dr. Hector’s
men shot two mountain sheep near the falls of the Bow River, which are
but a few minutes’ walk from the hotel. Likewise when making a partial
ascent of the Cascade Mountain, Dr. Hector came on a large herd of these
noble animals, concerning which so many fabulous tales of their daring
leaps down awful precipices have been told. He also mentions an
interesting fact about the death of a mountain goat. An Indian had shot
a goat when far up on the slope of Cascade Mountain, but the animal,
though badly wounded, managed to work its way around to some
inaccessible cliffs near the cascade. Here the poor animal lingered for
seven days with no less than five bullets in its body, till at length
death came and it fell headlong down the precipice.
[Illustration: Bow River and Cascade Mountain.]
The climate of Banff during the months of July and August is almost
perfection. The high altitude of 4500 feet above the sea-level renders
the nights invariably cool and pleasant, while the mid-day heat rarely
reaches 80° in the shade. There is but little rain during this period
and in fact there are but two drawbacks,—mosquitoes and forest-fire
smoke. The mosquitoes, however, are only troublesome in the deep woods
or by the swampy tracts near the river. The smoke from forest fires
frequently becomes so thick as to obscure the mountains and veil them in
a yellow pall through which the sun shines with a weird light.
An effect of the high northern latitude of this part of the Rocky
Mountains is to make the summer days very long. In June and early July
the sun does not set till nine o’clock, and the twilight is so bright
that fine print can be read out doors till eleven o’clock, and in fact
there is more or less light at midnight.
In June and September one never knows what to expect in the way of
weather. I shall give two examples which will set forth the
possibilities of these months, though one must not imagine that they
illustrate the ordinary course of events. In the summer of 1895, after
having suffered from a long period of intensely hot weather in the east,
I arrived at Banff on the 14th of June. It was snowing and the station
platform was covered to a depth of six inches. The next day, however, I
ascended Tunnel Mountain and found a most extraordinary combination of
summer and winter effects. The snow still remained ten or twelve inches
deep on the mountain sides, though it had already nearly disappeared in
the valley. Under this wintry mantle were many varieties of beautiful
flowers in full bloom, and, most conspicuous of all, wild roses in
profusion, apparently uninjured by this unusually late snow-storm. I
made a sad discovery near the top of the mountain. Seeing a little bird
fly up from the ground apparently out from the snow, I examined more
closely and observed a narrow snow-tunnel leading down to the ground.
Removing the snow I found a nest containing four or five young birds all
dead, their feeble spark of life chilled away by the damp snow, while
the mother bird had been, even when I arrived, vainly trying to nurse
them back to life.
This storm was said to be very unusual for the time of year. The poplar
trees in full summer foliage suffered severely and were bent down to the
ground in great arches, from which position they did not fully recover
all summer, while the leaves were blighted by the frost. As a general
rule, however, mountain trees and herbs possess an unusual vitality, and
endure snow and frost or prolonged dry weather in a remarkable manner.
The various flowers which were buried for a week by this late storm
appeared bright and vigorous after a few warm days had removed the snow.
Toward the end of September, 1895, there were two or three days of
exceptionally cold weather, the thermometer recording 6° Fahrenheit one
morning. I made an ascent of Sulphur Mountain, a ridge rising about
3,000 feet above the valley, on the coldest day of that period. The sun
shone out of a sky of the clearest blue without a single cloud except a
few scattered wisps of cirrus here and there. The mountain summit is
covered with a few straggling spruces which maintain a bare existence at
this altitude. The whole summit of the mountain, the trees, and rocks
were covered by a thick mantle of snow, dry and powdery by reason of the
severe cold. The chill of the previous night had condensed a beautiful
frost over the surface of the snow everywhere. Shining scales of
transparent ice, thin as mica and some half-inch across, stood on edge
at all possible angles and reflected the bright sunlight from thousands
of brilliant surfaces. This little glimpse of winter was even more
pleasing than the view from the summit, for the mountains near Banff do
not afford the mountain climber grand panoramas or striking scenery.
They tend to run in long regular ridges, uncrowned by glaciers or
extensive snowfields.
A never failing source of amusement to the residents of Banff, as well
as to those more experienced in mountain climbing, is afforded by those
lately arrived but ambitious tourists who look up at the mountains as
though they were little hills, and proceed forthwith to scale the very
highest peak on the day of their arrival. A few years ago some gentlemen
became possessed of a desire to ascend Cascade Mountain and set off with
the intention of returning the next day at noon. Instead of following
the advice of those who knew the best route, they would have it that a
course over Stoney Squaw Mountain, an intervening high ridge, was far
better. They returned three days later, after having wandered about in
burnt timber so long that, begrimed with charcoal, they could not be
recognized as white men. It is not known whether they ever so much as
reached the base of Cascade Mountain, but it is certain that they
retired to bed upon arriving at the hotel and remained there the greater
part of the ensuing week.
Cascade Mountain, however, is a difficult mountain to ascend, not
because there are steep cliffs or rough places to overcome, but because
almost every one takes the wrong slope. This leads to a lofty
escarpment, and just when the mountaineer hopes to find himself on the
summit, the real mountain appears beyond, while a great gulf separates
the two peaks and removes the possibility of making the ascent that day.
Banff, with its fine drives and beautiful scenery, its luxurious hotels
and delightful climate, will ever enjoy popularity among tourists. The
river above the falls is wide and deep and flows with such gentle
current as to render boating safe and delightful. The Vermilion lakes,
with their low reedy shores and swarming wild fowl, offer charming
places for the canoe and oarsman, at least when the mosquitoes, the
great pest of our western plains and mountains, temporarily disappear.
Nevertheless, the climate of Banff partakes of the somewhat dryer nature
of the lesser and more eastern sub-ranges of the Rocky Mountains. There
is not sufficient moisture to nourish the rich forests, vast
snow-fields, and thundering glaciers of the higher ranges to the west,
which in imagination we shall visit in the ensuing chapters.
[Illustration: RUNDLE MOUNTAIN AND BOW RIVER.]
[Illustration]