This is one of our best fruits, but suffers more from enemies than any
other.
_Propagation_ is by seeds or layers, budding or grafting. Seeds from
trees not exposed to mixture with other varieties in the blossom, will
produce the same; hence, this is the best method of propagating a given
variety, standing alone. But, for most situations, budding is preferable
to any other method. This should be performed earlier than on the peach.
The plum matures earlier, and hence should be budded about the last of
July, or first of August. Bud on the north side of the tree to avoid
the hot sun; and tie more tightly than in budding other trees. Bud
plum-trees the second year from the seed. Grafting should be resorted to
only when buds have failed, and there is a prospect that the trees will
be too large for budding another season. The common wild plums make good
stocks, if grafted at the ground. Thoroughly mulch all newly-grafted
plum-trees. Root-grafting will succeed, but should never be practised.
In all grafting of plums, put the graft in at the surface of the ground,
and cover with sawdust or mould, leaving but one bud on the graft
exposed.
_Soil._--All soils are good for the plum, provided they be thoroughly
drained, and properly fertilized.
Hard soils are recommended as being almost proof against the curculio.
That a soil affording a rather hard, smooth surface, will afford less
burrows for curculio, and consequently lessen their ravages, is no doubt
true. But it is not a perfect remedy, and, on other accounts, such a
soil is no better. A good firm loam is best. Plums will do well also on
light land, but are more exposed to injury from the curculio.
_Transplanting._--The plum being perfectly hardy, we recommend
transplanting in autumn. Shorten in the top, cut off considerable of the
tap-root, and the ends of the long roots, transplant well, and mulch so
thoroughly as to prevent too strong action of the frost on the roots,
and they will start early and do well. Twelve feet apart for small
varieties, and twenty feet for larger growers, are the distances usually
recommended. We think a rod apart each way will do well for all
varieties.
_Pruning._--Once started in a regular growth, in such a shape as you
desire, no further pruning will be necessary but occasionally
heading-in a too luxuriant shoot, and removing diseased and cross limbs.
On rich Western lands, and in warm Southern climes, young plum-trees
must be root-pruned and headed-in, or they will be unfruitful and
unhealthy. Root-pruning should be done in August, in the following
manner. In case of a tree ten feet high, take a sharp spade, and in a
circle around the tree, two feet from the trunk (making the circle four
feet in diameter), cut off all the roots within reach. In smaller trees,
make the circle smaller, and in larger ones, larger. At the same time,
shorten in the current year's growth, by cutting off one half the length
of all the principal shoots; this will give vigor, symmetry, and
fruitfulness, and prove a valuable preventive of disease. Plum-trees
should always have good, clean cultivation.
_Manures_ from the stable and slaughter-house, with wood-ashes, lime,
and plenty of salt, are the best for the plum. The following analysis,
by Richardson, of the fruit of the plum, will aid the culturist in his
selection of manures:--
Potash 59.21
Soda .54
Lime 10.04
Magnesia 5.46
Sulphuric acid 3.83
Silicic acid 2.36
Phosphoric acid 12.26
Phosphate of iron 6.04
Hence, as wood-ashes contains much potash, and as this is the largest
ingredient in the plum, it must be the best application to the soil for
this fruit. Bones, dissolved in sulphuric acid, would also be very
valuable. Bones, bonedust, salt, wood-ashes, and barnyard manure, with a
little lime, will be all that will be necessary.
_Diseases._--In most northern latitudes, the black wart, or knot, is
fatal to many plum-trees. It is less prevalent at the South: its origin
is not known. Many theories respecting it are put forth by different
cultivators; they are unsatisfactory, and their enumeration here would
be useless. It may be either the result of general ill health in the
tree, from budding on suckers and unhealthy stocks, and a want of proper
elements in the soil, or of improper circulation of sap, caused by the
roots absorbing more than the leaves can digest. In the latter case,
root-pruning and heading-in would be an effectual preventive. In the
former, supply suitable manures, and give good cultivation. In every
case, remove at once all affected parts, and wash the wounds and whole
tree, and drench the soil under it, with copperas-water--one ounce of
copperas to two gallons of water. This is stated to be a complete
remedy.
_Defoliation_ of seedlings and bearing trees often occurs in July and
August. Land well supplied with the manures recommended, especially
wood-ashes, salt, and the copperas-water, has not been known to produce
trees that drop their leaves.
_Decay of the Fruit_ is another serious evil. Professor Kirtland and
others suppose it to be a species of fungus. Poverty of soil, and wet
weather, may be the cause. If the season be unusually wet, thin the
fruit, so that no two plums shall touch each other. Keep the soil
properly manured, and spread charcoal or straw under the tree, and you
will generally be able to preserve your fruit.
_The Curculio_ is the great enemy of the plum, and frequently of all
smooth-skinned fruits, as the grape, nectarine, &c.
[Illustration: (1) Curculio, in the beetle-form, life-size. (2) Its
assumed form when disturbed or shaken from the tree. (3) Larva, or worm,
as found in the fallen fruit. (4) Pupa, or chrysalis state, in which it
lives in the ground.]
Many remedies are proposed: making pavements, or keeping the ground hard
and smooth, under the trees; pasturing swine and keeping fowls in the
plum-orchard; syringing the whole tops of the trees four or five times
with lime and salt water, or lime and sulphur-water--the proportions are
not material, provided it be not excessively strong. It is recommended
to apply with a garden-syringe. But, as few cultivators will have that
instrument, they may sprinkle the mixture on the trees in any way most
convenient. Salt, worked into the soil under plum-trees, is said to
destroy this insect in its pupa state. At any rate, the salt is a good
manure for the plum-tree. We know a remedy for the ravages of the
curculio, unfailing in all seasons and localities--that is, to kill
them: spread a cloth under the tree, and with a mallet having a head,
covered with India-rubber or cloth that it may not injure the bark,
strike the body and large limbs sudden blows, which will so jar them as
to cause the insects to fall upon the cloth, and you can then burn them.
Do this five or six times in the season, commencing when the fruit
begins to set, and continuing till it becomes nearly full-grown. This is
best done in the cool of the morning, while the insects are still; their
habits of fear and quiet, when there is a noise about, are greatly in
favor of their destruction by this method. This is somewhat laborious,
but is a sure remedy, and will pay well in all plum-orchards, large or
small. After two or three years of this treatment, there will be few or
none of those insects left.
_Uses_ of the plum are various. The fine varieties, well ripened, are a
good dessert-fruit; for sweetmeats and tarts they are much esteemed;
they are one of the better and more wholesome dried fruits. The foreign
ones are called prunes, and are an article of commerce. With a little
care, we can raise much better prunes than the imported. Like all
fruits, they are better for quick drying by artificial heat. The French
prunes, the process of drying which is minutely described by Downing in
his fruit-book, are no better than our best varieties, quickly dried by
artificial heat in a dry house, or moderately-heated oven. All dried
fruit is much better for having become perfectly ripe before picking. It
is a great mistake to suppose unripe fruit will be good dried.
[Illustration: Lawrence's Favorite.]
_Varieties_ are numerous, and many of them ought to be forgotten, as is
the case with all other fruits. We give a small list, containing all the
good qualities of the whole:--
_Bleecker's Gage._--A hardy tree and sure bearer. Time, August.
[Illustration: Imperial Gage.]
[Illustration: Egg.]
_Imperial Gage._--This is an American variety. It is of a lightish-green
color, and excellent flavor. Season, July at the South, and September at
the North.
_Egg._--The above cut represents one of the egg-plums, of excellent
quality in all respects. There are many of this name.
_Lawrence's Favorite._--This is a fine plum, of the gage family. It was
raised from the seed of the green gage; its qualities are seldom
surpassed.
_Washington._--This is a very good plum for high latitudes. At the South
it is too dry.
[Illustration: Green Gage.]
[Illustration: Jefferson.]
_Green Gage._--With fifteen synonyms. Excellent.
_Jefferson._--One of the very best. Time, last of August.
_Denniston's Purple, or Red._--Vigorous grower and very productive.
Time, August 20.
_Madison._--A hardy, productive, and excellent October plum.
The foregoing varieties, with the little black damson-plum, so hardy and
productive, and so much esteemed for preserving, will answer all needful
purposes. You will find long lists in the fruit-books. Some of them are
the above varieties, under different names. Procure four or five of the
best you can find in your vicinity, and cultivate them, and you will
need no others.
[Illustration: Washington.]