PEAR.

The pear is a native of Europe and Asia, and, in its natural state, is

quite as unfit for the table as the crab-apple. Cultivation has given it

a degree of excellence that places it in the first rank among

dessert-fruits. No other American fruit commands so high a price. New

varieties are obtained by seedlings, and are propagated by grafting and

budding: the latter is generally preferred. Root-grafting of pears is to

be avoided; the trees will be less vigorous and healthy. The difficulty

of raising pear-seedlings has induced an extensive use of suckers, to

the great injury of pear-culture. Fruit-growers are nearly unanimous in

discarding suckers as stocks for grafting. The difficulty in raising

seedling pear-trees is the failure of the seeds to vegetate. A remedy

for this is, never to allow the seeds to become dry, after being taken

from the fruit, until they are planted. Keep them in moist sand until

time to plant them in the spring, or plant as soon as taken from the

fruit. The spring is the best time for planting, as the ground can be

put in better condition, rendering after-culture much more easy. The

pear will succeed well on any good soil, well supplied with suitable

fertilizers. The best manures for the pear are, lime in small

quantities, wood-ashes, bones, potash dissolved, and applied in rotten

wood, leaves, and muck, with a little stable-manure and

iron-filings--iron is very essential in the soil for the pear-tree. In

all soils moderately supplied with these articles, all pear-trees

grafted on seedling-stocks, and those that flourish on the foreign

quince, will do well. A good yellow loam is most natural; light sandy or

gravelly land is unfavorable. It is better to cart two or three loads of

suitable soil for each tree on such land. The practice of budding or

grafting on apple-stocks, on crab-apples, and on the mountain-ash,

should be utterly discarded. For producing early fruit, quince-stocks

and root-pruning are recommended.

Setting out pear-trees properly is of very great importance. The

requisites are, to have the ground in good condition, from manure on the

crop of the last season, and thoroughly subsoiled and drained.

Pear-trees delight in rather heavy land, if it be well drained; but

water, standing in the soil about them, is utterly ruinous. Pear-trees,

well transplanted on moderately rich land, well subsoiled and well

drained, will almost always succeed. By observing the following brief

directions, any cultivator may have just such shaped tops on his

pear-trees as he desires. Cut short any shoots that are too vigorous,

that those around them may get their share of the sap, and thus be

enabled to make a proportionate growth. After trees have come into

bearing, symmetry in the form of their heads may be promoted by

pinching off all the fruit on the weak branches, and allowing all on the

strong ones to mature.

Those two simple methods, removing the fruit from too vigorous shoots,

and cutting in others, half or two-thirds their length, will enable one

to form just such heads as he pleases, and will prove the best

preventives of diseases.

_Diseases._--There are many insects that infest pear-orchards, in the

same manner as they do apples, and are to be destroyed in the same way.

The slugs on the leaves are often quite annoying. These are worms,

nearly half an inch long, olive-colored, and tapering from head to tail,

like a tadpole. Ashes or quicklime, sprinkled over the leaves when they

are wet with dew or rain, is an effectual remedy.

_Insect-Blight._--This has been confounded with the frozen-sap blight,

though they are very different. In early summer, when the shoots are in

most vigorous growth, you will notice that the leaves on the ends of

branches turn brown, and very soon die and become black. This is caused

by a worm from an egg, deposited just behind or below a bud, by an

insect. The egg hatches, and the worm perforates the bark into the wood,

and commits his depredations there, preventing the healthy flow of the

sap, which kills the twig above. Soon after the shoot dies, the worm

comes out in the form of a winged insect, and seeks a location to

deposite its eggs, preparatory to new depredations. The remedy is to cut

off the shoots affected at once, and burn them. The insect-blight does

not affect the tree far below the location of the worm. Watch your trees

closely, and cut off all affected parts as soon as they appear, and burn

them immediately, and you will soon destroy all the insects. But very

soon after the appearance of the blight they leave the limb; hence a

little delay will render your efforts useless. These insects often

commit the same depredations on apple and quince-trees. We had an

orchard in Ohio seriously affected by them. We know no remedy but

destruction as above.

_The Frozen-Sap Blight_ is a much more serious difficulty. Its nature

and origin are now pretty well settled. In every tree there are two

currents of sap: one passes up through the outer wood, to be digested by

the leaves; the other passing down in the inner bark, deposites new

wood, to increase the size of the tree. Now, in a late growth of this

kind of wood, the process is rapidly going on, at the approach of cold

weather, and the descending sap is suddenly frozen, in this tender bark

and growing wood. This sudden freezing poisons the sap, and renders the

tree diseased. The blight will show itself, in its worst form, in the

most rapid growing season of early summer, though the disease commenced

with the severe frosts of the previous autumn. Its presence may be known

by a thick, clammy sap, that will exude in winter or spring pruning, and

in the discoloration of the inner bark and peth of the branches. On

limbs badly affected on one side, the bark will turn black and shrivel

up. But its effects in the death of the branches only occur when the

growth of the tree demands the rapid descent of the sap: then the

poisoned sap which was arrested the previous fall, in its downward

passage, is diluted and sent through the tree; and when it is abundant,

the whole tree is poisoned and destroyed in a few days; in others more

slightly affected, it only destroys a limb or a small portion of the

top. Another effect of this fall-freezing of sap and growing wood, is

to rupture the sap-vessels, and thus prevent the inner bark from

performing its functions. This theory is so well established, that an

intelligent observer can predict, in the fall, a blight-season the

following summer. If the summer be cool, and the fall warm and damp,

closed by sudden cold, the blight will be troublesome the next season,

because the plentiful downward flow of sap, and rapid growth of wood,

were arrested by sudden freezing. If the summer is favorable, and the

wood matures well before cold weather, the blight will not appear. This

is of the utmost practical moment to the pear-culturist. Anything in

soil, situation, or pruning, that favors early maturity of wood, will

serve as a preventive of blight; hence, cool, moist situations are not

favorable in climates subject to sudden and severe cold weather in

autumn. Root-pruning and heading-in, which always induce early maturity

of wood, are of vast importance; they will, almost always, prevent

frozen-sap blight. If, in spite of you, your pear-trees will make a late

luxuriant growth, cut off one half of the most vigorous shoots before

hard freezing, and you will check the flow of sap, by removing the

leaves and shoots that control it, and save your trees. If blight makes

its appearance, cut off at once all the parts affected. The effects will

be visible in the wood and inner bark, far below the external apparent

injury. Remove the whole injured part, or it will poison the rest of the

tree. When this frozen sap is extensive, it poisons and destroys the

whole tree; when slight, the tree often wholly recovers. If a spot of

black, shrivelled bark appears, shave it off, deep enough to remove the

affected parts, and cover the wound with grafting-wax. Remove all

affected limbs. These are the only remedies. But the practice of

pruning both roots and branches will prove a certain preventive. A tree

growing in grass, where it grows more slowly, and matures earlier in the

season, will escape this blight; while one growing in very rich garden

soil, and continuing to grow until cold weather, will suffer severely.

The effects on orchards, in different soils and localities everywhere,

confirm this theory. A little care then will prevent this evil, which

has sometimes been so great as to discourage attempts at raising pears.

In some localities, some of the finer varieties of pears, as the

virgalieu, are ruined by cracking on the trees before ripening.

Applications of ashes, salt, charcoal, iron-filings, and clay on light

lands, will remedy this evil.

_Distances apart._--All fruit-trees had better occupy as little ground

as is consistent with a healthy vigorous growth. They are manured and

well cultivated, at a much less expense. The trees protect each other

against inclement weather. The fruit is more easily harvested. And it is

a great saving of land, as nothing else can be profitably grown in an

orchard of large fruit-trees. The two kinds of pear-trees, dwarf and

standard, may be planted together closely and be profitable for early

and abundant bearing. The plan given on the next page of a pear-orchard,

recommended in Cole's Fruit Book, is the best we have seen.

In the plan the trees on pear-stocks, designed for standards, occupy the

large black spots where the lines intersect. They are thirty-three feet

apart. The small spots indicate the position of dwarf-trees on quince

stocks. Of these there are three on each square rod. An acre then would

have forty standard trees, and four hundred and eighty dwarfs. The

latter will come into early bearing, and be profitable, long before the

former will produce any fruit. This will induce and repay thorough

cultivation. They should be headed in, and finally removed, as the

standards need more room. One acre carefully cultivated in this way,

will afford an income sufficient for the support of a small family.

[Illustration: Plan of a Pear-Orchard.]

_Gathering and Preserving._--Most fruits are better when allowed fully

to ripen on the tree. But with pears, the reverse is true; most of them

need to be ripened in the house, and some of them, as much as possible,

excluded from the light. Gather when matured, and when a few of the

wormy full-grown ones begin to fall, but while they adhere somewhat

firmly to the tree. Barrel or box them tight, or put them in drawers in

a cool dry place. About the time for them to become soft, put them in a

room, with a temperature comfortable for a sitting-room, and you will

soon have them in their greatest perfection. They do better in a warm

room, wrapped in paper or cotton. A few only ripen well on the trees.

Those ripened in the house keep much longer and better.

_Varieties._--The London Horticultural Society have proved seven hundred

varieties, from different parts of the world, in their experimental

garden. Cole speaks of eight hundred and Elliott of twelve hundred

varieties. There are now probably more than three thousand growing in

this country. Many seedlings, not known beyond the neighborhood where

they originated, may be among our very best. From six to ten varieties

are all that need be cultivated. We present the following list, advising

cultivators to select five or six to suit their own tastes and

circumstances, and cultivate no more. We do not give the usual

descriptions of the varieties selected. The mass of cultivators, for

whom this work is specially intended, will never learn and test the

descriptions. They will depend upon their nursery-man, and bud and graft

from those they have tasted.

We give their names and some of their synonyms, their adaptation to

quince or pear stocks, their manner of growth, and time of maturity.

These will enable the culturist to select whatever best suits his taste;

adapted to quince or pear stocks; for the table or kitchen; for summer,

fall, or winter use, and for home or the market.

BELLE LUCRATIVE.--_Fondante d' Automne, Seigneur d' Esperin._ Tree of

moderate growth, but a great bearer. A fine variety, on quince or pear,

better perhaps on the pear stock. Season, last of September.

BEURRE EASTER with fifteen synonyms that few would ever read. Best on

quince. Requires a warm soil and considerable care in ripening, when it

proves one of the best. Its season--from January to May--makes it very

desirable. Large, yellowish-green, with russet spots.

[Illustration: Bartlett.]

BARTLETT.--_William's, William's Bon Chretien, Poire Guilliaume_. Tree,

a vigorous grower, and a regular, early, good bearer, of long, handsome,

perfectly-formed fruit; on the quince or pear stock. Time, August and

September.

[Illustration: Beurre Diel.]

BEURRE DIEL.--_Diel_, _Diel's Butterbirne_, _Dorothee Royale_, _Grosse

Dorothee_, _Beurre Royale_, _Des Trois Tours_, _De Melon_, _Melon de

Kops_, _Beurre Magnifique_, _Beurre Incomparable_. Grows well on quince

or pear, but perhaps does best on quince. Large, beautiful, luscious

fruit. Season, October to last of November.

[Illustration: White Doyenne.]

WHITE DOYENNE.--_Virgalieu._ Tree vigorous and hardy on pear or quince.

Everywhere esteemed as one of the very best. Needs care in supplying

proper manure and clay on light soils, to prevent the fruit from

cracking. September to November. If we could have but one we should

choose this.

COLUMBIA.--_Columbian Virgalieu._ Native of New York, bearing

abundantly, a uniformly smooth, fair, large fruit. Color, fine golden

yellow, dotted with gray. Season, December and January.

[Illustration: Flemish Beauty.]

FLEMISH BEAUTY.--_Belle de Flanders, &c._ This is a large, beautiful,

and delicious pear. One of the finest in its season, but does not last

long. Ripens last of September. Very fine on the quince, and is

excellent on the rich prairie-lands of the West. Deserves increased

attention.

BEURRE D'AREMBERG.--_Duc d'Aremberg, and eight other synonyms._ Tree

very hardy, does well on the pear stock, and bears early, annually, and

abundantly. A very fine foreign variety. The fruit hangs on the tree

well, and may be ripened at will from December to February, by placing

in a warm room, when you would ripen them.

BUFFUM.--A native of Rhode Island, and very successful wherever grown. A

great bearer of handsome fruit, though not of the best quality. It is,

however, an excellent orchard pear. Fruit, medium size, ripening in

September.

LOUISE BONNE OF JERSEY.--_William the Fourth_, and three other useless

foreign synonyms. Not surpassed, on the quince. Tree very vigorous,

producing a great abundance of large fruit. Season, October.

MADELEINE.--_Magdalen_, _Citron des Carmes_. This bears an abundance of

small but delicious fruit. Is valuable also on account of its

season--the last half of July. Good on pear or quince. Must be checked

in its growth, on very rich land, or it will be subject to the frozen

sap-blight.

ONONDAGA.--American origin. Equally good on pear or quince. Large,

hardy, and very productive tree. The fruit is very large, fine golden

yellow when ripe. Excellent for market. Season, October and November.

POUND PEAR.--_Winter Belle_, and twelve other synonyms, which are

unimportant. This is the great winter-pear for cooking. The tree is a

very vigorous grower and great bearer. A very profitable orchard

variety. December to March.

PRINCE'S ST. GERMAIN.--_New St. Germain_, _Brown's St. Germain_. Hardy

and productive. Good keeper, ripening as easily and as well as an apple.

December to March.

[Illustration: Seckel.]

SECKEL.--There are a number of synonyms, but it is always known by this

name. Tree is small, but a good and regular bearer of small excellent

fruit. Time in warm climates, September and October.

STEVEN'S GENESEE.--_Stephen's Genesee_, _Guernsey_. Desirable for all

orchards and gardens, on quince or pear. Fine grower and very

productive. Fruit large and excellent. Elliott says "even the wind-falls

are very fine."

VICAR OF WAKEFIELD.--Eight synonyms, but it will hardly be mistaken by

nursery-men. Does well on quince. It is thrifty and very productive of

fruit of second quality. Yet it is generally profitable. November to

January.

WINTER NELLIS.--Its six foreign synonyms are of no consequence. This is

the best of all winter-pears, grown on quince or pear. Exceedingly well

adapted to the rich western prairies. An early and great bearer.

November to January 15.

[Illustration: Gray Doyenne.]

GRAY DOYENNE.--A superior October pear. Tree hardy and productive on

both pear or quince. Partakes much of the excellence of the White

Doyenne.

From these you can select five or six just adapted to your wishes. The

diversity of views, of the merits of different varieties of pears,

arises mainly from the influence of location, soil, and culture. The

established known varieties, may be grown in great perfection anywhere,

with suitable care. At the West they _must be root-pruned_ and

_headed-in_ until they are ten years old, after which they will be hardy

and productive. If allowed to grow as fast as they will incline to, on

alluvial soils, when they are exposed to severe winters, they will

disappoint growers. With care they will be sure and profitable.