2. _The Yellow._--Large and profitable, keeping better than any other.

3. _The Silver-skin._--The handsomest variety, excellent for pickling,

brings the highest price of all, but is not quite so good a keeper as

the red or yellow, and does not yield as well.

4. _The White Portugal._--A larger white onion, often taken for the true

silver-skin. It is a good variety. The preceding are all raised from the

black seed, growing on the top.

5. _The Egg Onion._--So called from its size and shape. On good rich

soil, the average size may be that of a goose-egg, which it resembles in

form. It is of a pale-red color, and more mild in flavor than any other.

They are usually raised by sowing the black seed, very thick, to form

sets for next year. Those sets, put out early, will form large onions

for early market, that will sell more readily than any other offered.

6. _The Top Onion._--So called because the seed consists of small

onions, growing on the top of the stalks, in place of the black seed of

other onions. These are good for early use, grow large, but are poor

keepers.

7. _The Hill or Potato Onion_.--Of these there are several kinds, most

of which are unworthy of cultivation. The _Large English_ is the only

valuable variety. The small onions, for sets, grow in the ground from

the same roots, by the side of the main onion. Some of these grow large

enough for cooking. The main onion is the earliest known, grows large,

and has a mild, pleasant flavor;--they will mature at a certain season,

whatever time you plant them; hence, they must be planted very early to

produce a good crop. We have planted them on good ground so late as to

get little more than the seed. They are fine for summer and fall use,

but keep poorly. The foregoing are all that are necessary. They can all

be brought forward by early planting of sets raised the previous season,

by sowing the black seed so thick that they can not grow larger than

peas, or small cherries.

Good sandy loam and black muck are the best soils for onions. Any good

garden soil may be made to produce large crops; good, well rotted

stable-manure and leached ashes are the best. The theory of shallow

plowing, and treading down onion-beds is incorrect. The roots of onions

are numerous and long. The land should be well-manured, double-plowed,

and thoroughly pulverized. The only objection to a very mellow onion-bed

is the difficulty of getting the seed up: this is obviated by rolling

after sowing, which packs the mould around the seed, so as to retain

moisture and insure vegetation. Fine manure, mixed in the surface of the

soil for onions, is highly beneficial; on no other crop does manure on

the surface do so much good. Mulching the whole bed, as soon as the

plants are large enough, is in the highest degree beneficial, both in

promoting growth, and keeping down weeds. An onion-bed must be made very

smooth and level, to favor very early hoeing, without destroying the

small plants. All root-crops that come up small, are tended with less

than half the expense, if the surface be made very smooth and level.

Never divide your onion-ground into small beds, but sow the longest way,

in straight narrow rows, eighteen inches apart, for convenience of

weeding and hoeing. Cultivate while very young, and work the soil toward

the rows, so as to hill up the plants; this should be removed after they

begin to form large bulbs. Breaking down the tops to induce them to

bottom, is a fallacy: it will lessen the crop. Rich soil, deep plowing,

thorough pulverizing, early sowing, and frequent hoeings, will insure

success. Our system of double-plowing is the best for this crop. They

will do equally well, some say improve, for twenty years on the same

bed. Work the tops into the soil where the plants grow. Let the rows be

very narrow and very straight, and you will save half the ordinary

expense of cultivation.

_To gather and preserve well_, you should house them when very dry. A

day's exposure to a warm autumn sun is very beneficial. Keep them in an

open barn or shed until there is danger of frost. A warm, damp cellar

always ruins them; keep them through winter in the coolest dry place

possible, without severe freezing. Once freezing is not injurious, but

frequent freezing and thawing ruins them. They are very finely preserved

braided into strings and hung in a cool, dry room.

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