GRAPES.

Those cultivated so extensively in Europe were natives of

Persia--showing that they may be acclimated far from their native home.

Foreign grapes are not suitable for out-door culture in this country,

except a very few varieties, which do well in the Southern states. The

native grapes of this country have produced some excellent varieties,

which are now in general cultivation. Others are beginning to attract

notice, and seedlings will probably multiply rapidly, and great

improvements in our native grapes may be expected. The subject of

grape-culture deserves greatly-increased attention. To all palates the

grape is delicious; it is not only one of the most palatable articles of

diet, but is more highly medicinal than any other fruit. It is the

natural source of pure wine. Pure wine made of grapes is only to be

procured, in this country, by domestic manufacture. Probably not one out

of a thousand gallons of imported wines, sold as pure, contains a drop

of the juice of the grape;--they are manufactured of poisonous drugs and

ardent spirits--generally common whiskey. A French chemist discovered a

method of imitating fermented liquor without fermentation, and distilled

spirits without distillation. His process has been published in this

country in book form, and by subscription; and while those books are

unknown in the bookstores, they are generally possessed by prominent

liquor dealers;--and the practice of those secret arts is terribly

dangerous to the community. Antecedent to this chemical manufacture of

poisonous liquors, such a disease as _delirium tremens_ was unknown.

Thus the Frenchman's discovery filled the liquor-sellers' pockets with

cash, and the land with mourning, over frequent deaths by a disease, the

horror of which is equalled only by hydrophobia. In self-defence, all

should give up the use of everything purporting to be imported wines or

liquors. Wine should not be used as a common beverage by the healthy.

The best medical authority in the world has pronounced it absolutely

injurious. But in many cases of sickness, especially in convalescence

from fevers, it is one of the very best articles that can be used;

hence, a pure article, of domestic manufacture, should be accessible to

all the sick. (See our article on "Wine.") The luxury of good grapes can

be enjoyed by every family in the land who have a yard twenty feet

square. In the cities, almost every house may have a grapevine or two

where nothing else would grow. Allow a vine to run up trellis-work in

the rear of the house, and over the roof of a wing, or rear-part, raised

two feet above the roof, supported by a rack. In such situations they

will bear better than elsewhere, will be out of the way, and decidedly

ornamental. In such small yards, from five to twenty-five bushels have

often grown in a season. Some climates and soils are much better suited

to grape-culture than others. But we have varieties that will flourish

wherever Indian corn will mature.

_Location._--For vineyards, the sides of hills are usually chosen,

sometimes for the purpose of a warm exposure, but generally to secure

the most perfect drainage. A northern exposure is preferable for all

varieties adapted to the climate. To mature late varieties, choose a

southern or eastern exposure.

_Soil._--Gravelly, with a little sand, on a dry subsoil, is preferable,

though good grapes may be grown upon any land upon which water will not

stand. Grapes always need much lime. If the vineyard is not located on

calcareous soil, lime must be liberally supplied, especially for

wine-making. A dry subsoil, or thorough draining, is indispensable to

successful grape-culture. We prefer level land, wherever thorough

draining is practicable.

_Propagation._--Choice grapes are propagated by grafts, layers, or

cuttings. New ones are produced from seeds. The more kinds that are

cultivated together, the greater will be the varieties raised from their

seeds, by cross-fertilization in the blossoms. A small grape crossed

with a large one, or an early with a late one, or two of different

flavors, will produce mediums between them. Seeds should be cleaned, and

planted in the fall, or kept in sand till spring. In the fall, cover up

the young vines. The second or third year, the young vines should be set

in the places where they are designed to remain. By efforts to get new

varieties, we may adapt them to every latitude, from the gulf of Mexico

to Pembina.

_Layers._--These produce large vines and abundance of fruit earlier than

any other method of propagation. Put down old wood in May or early June,

and new wood a month later; fasten down with pegs having a hook to hold

the vine, and cover up with earth; they will take root freely at the

joints, and may be removed in autumn or spring. If you put down wood too

late, or do not keep it covered with moist earth, it will fail;

otherwise it is always sure.

_Cuttings_--may be from any wood you have to spare, and should be about

a foot long, having two buds. Plant at an angle of forty-five degrees,

one bud and two thirds of the cutting under the soil. A little shade and

moisture will cause nearly all to grow. A little grafting-wax on the top

will aid the growth, by preventing evaporation. The cutting, so buried

as to have the top bud half an inch under fine mould, is said to be

surer. Cuttings should be made late in fall, or early in winter, and

preserved as scions for grafting. Cuttings made in the spring are less

sure to grow, and their removal is much more injurious to the vine.

Vines raised from cuttings may be transplanted when one or two years

old.

_Grafting_--should be performed after the leaves are well developed in

the spring. The sap becomes thick, which aids the process. Remove the

earth, and saw off the vine two or three inches below the surface. Graft

with scions of the previous year's growth, but well matured, and apply

cement, to keep the sap from coming out. Cover all but the top bud. In

stocks an inch in diameter put two scions. Very few need fail.

_Budding_--maybe done as in other cases, but always after the leaves are

well developed, to avoid bleeding. These modes of propagation stand in

the following order in point of preference, the best being named first:

layers, cuttings, grafting, budding.

_Culture and Manure._--Land prepared by deep subsoil plowing, highly

manured and cultivated the previous season in a root-crop, is the best

for a vineyard. The trenches for the rows should be spaded twenty

inches deep, and a part of the surface-soil put in the bottom. After

planting the vines, stir the ground often and keep clear of weeds. At

first, stir the soil deep; but, as the roots extend, avoid working among

them, and never disturb the roots with a plow. Mulching preserves the

soil in a moist, loose condition, and is a good preventive of mildew. In

many instances it is said to have doubled the crop. Common

animal-manures are good for young vines, and in preparing the soil, but

are rather too stimulating for bearing vines, often injuring the fruit.

Ashes and cinders from the smith's forge, wood-ashes, charcoal,

soapsuds, bones and bonedust, lime, and forest and grape leaves and

trimmings, carefully dug into the soil around the vines, are all very

good. A liberal supply of suitable manures will keep the vines in a

healthy condition, and preserve the fruit from disease and decay. This,

with judicious pruning, will render the grape-crop regular and sure.

_Vineyards_--should be in rows five feet apart, with vines four feet

apart in the row. Layers of one, and cuttings of two years' growth, will

bear the second year, and very plentifully the third year. A good

vineyard in the latitude of Cincinnati yields about one hundred and

fifty bushels of grapes per acre, making four hundred gallons of wine.

The average yield of wine per acre, throughout the country, is estimated

at two hundred gallons.

_Training under Glass._--By this means the fine foreign varieties may be

brought to perfection in our high latitudes. With most of the best

kinds, this can be done by solar heat alone. A house covered with glass

at an angle of forty-five degrees, facing the south, will answer the

purpose. With a slight artificial heat, the finest varieties may be

perfected, and others forwarded, so as to have fine grapes at most

seasons of the year. The vines are planted on the outside of the

grapehouse, and allowed to pass in through an aperture two feet from the

ground, and are trained up near the glass on the inside. Protect the

roots in winter by a covering of coarse straw manure. Wind the vines on

the inside with straw, lay them down on the ground in the grape-house,

and keep it closed during the winter. A house one hundred feet long and

twenty-five feet wide, filled mainly with Black Hamburg, with a few

other choice varieties, would afford a great luxury, and prove a

profitable investment. From one such house, near a large city, a careful

cultivator may realize a thousand dollars per annum. Native and even

hardy varieties are often greatly improved by cultivation under glass,

or by a little protection in winter.

The Isabella grape is hardy and productive in western New York. In 1856,

we noticed a vine that had been laid down in a dry place and covered

slightly with earth, in autumn; the fruit was more abundant, and one

fourth larger, than that on a similar vine by its side that had remained

on the trellis during winter: this shows the value of protection even to

hardy vines.

_Training._--There are many methods, and the question of preference

depends upon the location of the vines, the space they may occupy, and

the taste of the cultivator. There are four principal systems--the cane

or renewal system, spur system, fan-training, and spiral or hoop

training.

The renewal system we prefer for trellises. Put posts firmly in the

ground eight feet apart, allowing them to be seven feet above ground

after they are set; put slats of wood or wire across these, a foot

apart, commencing a foot above the ground. Set vines eight feet apart;

let the vines be composed of two branches, coming out near the ground:

these can be formed by cutting off a young vine near the ground, and

training two of the shoots that will spring from the bottom. These two

vines should be bent down in opposite directions, and tied horizontally

to the lower slat of the trellis; cut these off, so as to have them meet

similar vines from the next root; upright shoots from these will extend

to the top of the trellis, and it is then covered, and the work is

complete. After these upright canes have borne, cut off every alternate

one, two or three inches from its base, and train up the strongest shoot

for a bearer next year: thus cut off and train new alternate ones every

year, and the vine will be constantly renewing, and be in the most

productive state; keep the vines clipped at the top of the trellis, and

the sap will mature strong buds for next year's fruit. We regard this

the most effectual of all training. The principle of renewal can be

applied to any form of vine, and eminently promotes fruitfulness. Many

complain that their vines, though liberally pruned, do not bear well.

The difficulty may be that the new wood is principally removed, while

the old is left to throw out strong-growing shoots, bearing abundance of

foliage and little fruit. More of the old wood removed, and more of the

young saved, would have produced less vines and much more fruit.

_Pruning_--is the most important part of successful grape-culture.

Mistakes on this subject are very injurious. Let vines grow in their own

way, and you will have much wood and foliage, and very little, poor

fruit. Some cut off the shoots in summer just above the fruit, and

remove most of the leaves around it to expose the fruit to the sun. This

often proves to be a ruinous mistake; the sap ascends to the leaves, and

there amalgamates with what they absorb from the atmosphere, and thus

forms food for the vine and fruit. It is the leaves, and not the fruit,

which need the sun: the leaves are the lungs, upon the action of which

the life and health of the fruit depend. Blight of the leaves destroys

the fruit, and a frequent repetition of it destroys the vine.

Grape-vines should not be pruned at all until three years old, as it

retards the growth of the roots, and thus weakens the vines. Older vines

should be freely pruned in November or December; pruned in winter they

_may_ bleed in the spring, and pruned in the spring they _certainly_

will bleed. Tender vines, not protected, may have an excess of wood left

in the fall to allow for what may perish in winter; in this case, cut

away the dead and surplus wood in spring, but never until the leaves are

well developed, so as to prevent bleeding. Necessary summer-pruning is

of much importance. Remove no leaves, except the ends of branches, that

have already made as much wood as they can mature. In the Middle states

this should be done about the last of July, and at the South a month

earlier. Weak lateral branches, that bear no fruit, may be removed, but

not all of them, for it is on the wood of this year's growth that the

fruit will be found the following season. Old wood does not send out

wood in spring that will bear fruit the same season; that wood will bear

fruit next season if allowed to remain. Whoever observes will notice

that grapes grow on young shoots of the same season; but they are

shoots from wood of the previous year's growth, and not from old wood.

Many suppose if they trim their vines very closely, as the old vines

send forth abundance of new wood, and it is new wood on which the fruit

grows, of course they will have abundance of grapes; and they are

disappointed by a failure. The explanation of the whole is, fruit grows

on new wood, from wood of previous year's growth, and not from old

vines; hence, in lessening a vine, remove old wood. This is the renewal

system, whatever the form of the vine, and is the whole secret of

successful pruning. This accounts for the great success of the Germans

in producing such quantities of grapes on low vines. In their best

vineyards, they do not allow their vines to grow more than six or seven

feet high, and yet they produce abundantly for many years. They so prune

as to have plenty of last year's wood for the production of fruit the

current season; after this has borne fruit, they remove it to make room

for the young wood that will produce the next season. This principle is

applicable to vines of any shape or size you may choose to form. The

removal, in summer, of excessive growth, and shortening the ends of

those you design to retain, throws the strength of the vine into the

fruit, and to perfect the wood already formed. Liberal fall-pruning is

necessary to induce the formation of new wood the next season, for

bearing the following year. Parts that grow late do not mature

sufficiently to bear fruit the next season; hence, cut off the ends in

summer, and let what remains have the benefit of all the sap.

_Reduction of Fruit._--The grape is disposed to excessive bearing, which

weakens the vine, and injures the quality of the fruit. Liberal pruning

in autumn does much to remedy this evil, by not leaving room for an

excessive amount of fruit: hence, when you have a plenty of

fruit-bearing wood, cut off the ends, so as to leave spurs with two

buds, or at the most only four; when too much fruit sets, remove it very

early, before the juices of the vine have been wasted upon it. A vine

cut or wounded in spring will bleed profusely. Sheet India-rubber, or

two or three thicknesses of a bladder, wet and bound closely around, may

prevent the bleeding.

_Mildew_--is very destructive in confined locations, without a good

circulation of air. Sulphur and quicklime, separate or combined, dug

into the soil around the vines, is a preventive. Straw or litter of any

kind, spread thick under the vines, is, perhaps, the best remedy--the

action of it is in every way beneficial.

_Insects._--The rosebug, spanworm, great greenworm, and many other

insects, infest grapevines, and do much injury. The large worms are most

easily destroyed by hand; the small insects by flour-of-sulphur, or by

snuff, sprinkled over profusely when the vines are wet. The various

applications recommended in this work for the destruction of insects,

are useful on the grapevine. The principle is to apply something

offensive to the insects, without being injurious to the vines.

_Preserving Grapes._--Packed in sawdust or wheat-bran, always thoroughly

dried by heat, they will keep well until spring. Another method is

packing them in cotton-batting or wadding (the latter is best); or put

them in baskets holding no more than four or five quarts, cover tight

with cotton, and hang up in a cool, airy place, and they will long

remain in good condition. In shallow boxes, six inches deep, put a sheet

of wadding, and on it a layer of bunches of grapes, not allowed to

touch each other; on the top of the grapes put another sheet of cotton,

and then another layer of grapes, and so the third, covering the last

with cotton, and put the cover on tight, and keep in a cool place. This

is the most successful method.

A new method is to suspend hoops by three cords, like a baby-jumper, and

hang the bunches of grapes all around it, as near as possible without

touching, on little wire hooks, passing through the lower ends of the

clusters, allowing the stem end to be suspended, and the grapes hang

away from each other, and if the place be not damp enough to mould them,

and not dry enough to cause them to shrivel, they keep exceedingly well.

It requires more care and judgment, than the other methods. A very cool

situation, without freezing, is essential in all cases. It is also

necessary to remove all broken or immature grapes, from the clusters you

would preserve.

_Varieties_ are very numerous, and their nomenclature is confused, as

that of other fruits. It is utterly useless to cultivate foreign grapes

in the open air in this country. They succeed very imperfectly, even in

the Southern states. But for cultivation under glass, they are

preferable to any of our own. The following foreign grapes are preferred

in this country:--

Black Prince, White Muscat, White Constantia, White Muscadine, White

Sweet-water, Early White Muscat, Black Cluster, Black Hamburg. The

latter is the best of all foreign grapes for cultivation under glass. It

is very delicious, a great bearer, of very large clusters. It requires

only solar heat to bring it to perfection.

_Native Grapes._--Of these we now have a large number, many of which are

valuable. We call attention only to a very few of the best. The

_Isabella_ as a table luxury is hardly surpassed. In the Eastern,

Middle, and Western states, it is generally hardy and prolific. In

northern Maine, New Hampshire, and Vermont, it does not ripen well. The

seasons are too short. It also feels somewhat the severity of the

weather, on the western prairies. It is also apt to decay at the South.

For all other parts it is one of the very best. It is an enormous

bearer, one vine having been known to produce more than ten bushels, in

a single year.

[Illustration: The Isabella Grape.]

[Illustration: The Catawba Grape.]

Next is the _Catawba_, better for wine, more vinous but not so sweet as

the Isabella, ripens two or three weeks later, and hence not so good in

high latitudes.

_The Rebecca Grape._--This is a comparatively new variety, of great

promise. White like the Sweet-water, flavor very fine, vine hardy and

productive.

_The Diana_ is a small delicious grape, excellent flavor for the

dessert, and ripens two weeks earlier than the Isabella. Hence good for

northern latitudes.

_The Concord._--Large, showy, of good but not the best flavor, and

ripens with the Diana. Should be cultivated at the North.

_The York Madeira_ is similar to the Isabella, smaller and a few days

earlier.

[Illustration: The Rebecca Grape.]

[Illustration: The Delaware Grape.]

_The Delaware_ is a small brown grape, excellent and hardy. Ripens quite

as early as the Isabella. Best outdoor grape, in many localities.

_The Canadian Chief._--One of the very best grapes for Canada.

_Canby's August._--Very fine; considered better for the table than the

Isabella, ripens ten days earlier, and as it is a good bearer, it should

be generally cultivated.

_The Ohio Grape_ is a good variety, beginning to attract much notice.

_The Scuppernong_ is the best of all grapes, for general cultivation at

the South. It is never affected by the rot. Not easily raised from

cuttings. Layers are better. It does best trained on an arbor.

The soil and climate of the South are well adapted to the grape, even

the finer varieties that do not flourish well at the North. They are,

however, seriously affected by the rot, an evil incident to the heat and

humidity of the climate. It being very warm, the dews and rains incline

the fruit to decay. We think the evil may be prevented by two very

simple means: Keep the vines very open, that they may dry very soon

after rain; and train them to trellises, from six to ten feet high, and

over the top put a coping of boards, in the shape of a roof, extending

eighteen inches on each side of the trellis. It will prevent the rain

and heavy dews from falling on the grapes, and is said to preserve them

perfectly. This arrangement is about equal, in a warm climate, to cold

graperies at the north. We recommend increased attention to this great

luxury, in all parts of the country. Seedlings will arise, adapted to

every locality on the continent.