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_WORK” HANDBOOKS_
HARNESS MAKING
HARNESS
MAKING
_WITH NUMEROUS ENGRAVINGS AND DIAGRAMS_
EDITED BY
PAUL N. HASLUCK
EDITOR OF “WORK” AND “BUILDING WORLD,”
AUTHOR OF “HANDYBOOKS FOR HANDICRAFTS,” ETC. ETC.
[Illustration: Decoration]
CASSELL AND COMPANY, LIMITED
_LONDON, PARIS, NEW YORK & MELBOURNE. MCMIV_
ALL RIGHTS RESERVED
PREFACE.
This Handbook contains, in form convenient for everyday use, a
comprehensive digest of the knowledge of harness making, scattered
over more than twenty thousand columns of WORK—one of the weekly
journals it is my fortune to edit—and supplies concise information on
the details of the subjects of which it treats.
In preparing for publication in book form the mass of relevant matter
contained in the volumes of WORK, much had to be arranged anew.
However, it may be stated that the greater part of the contents of
this Handbook consists substantially of matter contributed by a
working harness maker.
Readers who may desire additional information respecting special
details of the matters dealt with in this Handbook, or instructions
on kindred subjects, should address a question to WORK, so that it
may be answered in the columns of that journal.
P. N. HASLUCK.
_La Belle Sauvage, London,
May, 1904._
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER PAGE
I.—Harness-makers’ Tools 9
II.—Harness-makers’ Materials 30
III.—Strap Making and Stitching 49
IV.—Looping 57
V.—Cart Harness 62
VI.—Cart Collars 75
VII.—Cart Saddles, Reins, etc. 86
VIII.—Fore Gear and Leader Harness 101
IX.—Plough Harness 107
X.—Bits, Spurs, Stirrups, and Harness Furniture 111
XI.—Van and Cab Harness 127
Index 157
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
FIG. PAGE
1.—Paring Knife 10
2.—Hand Knife 10
3.—Round Knife 11
4.—Head Knife 11
5.—Cutting Gauge 11
6.—Plough or Plough Gauge 12
7.—Side Elevation of Plough Gauge 12
8.—End Elevation of Plough Gauge 13
9.—Slitting Machine 13
10.—Spokeshave 13
11.—Edge Trimmer 14
12.—Washer Cutter 14
13.—Round Punch 15
14.—Oval Punch 15
15.—Buckle Tongue, or Crew, Punch 15
16.—Girth Chape Punch 15
17.—Brace End Punch 15
18.—Forepart of Brace End Punch 16
19.—Hand Punch 16
20.—Hand Punch Nipple 16
21 to 24.—Scalloping Irons 16
25, 26.—Rosette Punches 17
27.—Lead Piece 17
28.—Wooden Mallet 17
29, 30.—Useful Wooden Mallets 17
31.—Saddlers’ Hammer 18
32.—Pricking-iron 18
33, 34.—Wheel Prickers 18
35.—Screw-race 19
36.—Single Crease 19
37.—Screw-crease 19
38.—Checker 20
39.—Beveller 20
40.—Compasses 20
41.—Race Compasses 20
42, 43.—Awl Blades 21
44.—Sewing Awl 22
45.—Bent Awl 22
46, 47.—Harness Needles 23
48, 49.—Seat Awls 23
50, 51.—Hand-irons or Palm-irons 24
52.—Clamp or Clams 24
53.—Clamp for Sewing Shaft-tugs 25
54.—Home-made Clamp Holding Work 25
55.—Jaws of Clamp 25
56.—Nail-claw 26
57.—Cutting Pliers 26
58.—Iron Collar Rod 27
59.—Steel Seat-iron 27
60.—Loop-stick 28
61.—Rubber 28
62.—Straining Fork 29
63.—Cutting up Hide 39
64.—Plain Waist Belt 53
65.—Fancy Waist Belt 54
66.—Waist Belt with Pockets 55
67.—Box Creased Loop 58
68.—Box Creased Loop 59
69, 70.—Box Creased Loops 60
71.—Horse in Cart Gear 62
72 to 75.—Scotch Brass Gear Buckles 63
76, 77.—Brass Face-pieces 64
78.—Brass Face-piece 65
79.—Bells and Brush 65
80, 81.—Brass Hame Plates 65
82.—Brass Oval 66
82 to 85.—Brass Octagons 66
86.—Brass Heart 66
87, 88.—Brass Stars 66
89, 90.—Brass Hame Knobs 67
91, 92.—Brass Swing 67
93.—Ear-piece 67
94.—Corner-piece 67
95.—Cart Collar without Side-piece 75
96.—Cart Collar Lining 79
97.—Cart Collar Side-piece 83
98.—Cart Saddle Tree 87
99.—Cart Saddle Panel 89
100.—Cart Saddle Hind Housing 93
101.—Cart Saddle Front Housing 95
102.—Set of Leader Gear 103
103, 104.—Hip-strap Chains 105
105.—Plough Back-band Hook 109
106 to 108.—Pelham Bits 111
109.—Hackney Bit 111
110.—Bridoon 111
111, 112.—Ladies’ Horse Bits 112
113.—Pelham Snaffle with Indiarubber Mouth 112
114.—Hackney Bit with Indiarubber Mouth 112
115.—Gig Snaffle 113
116.—Wilson Snaffle 113
117.—Liverpool Bit 113
118.—Globe Check Curb Bit 113
119.—One-horn Bridoon Bit 113
120.—One-horned Bridoon with Indiarubber Mouth 114
121.—Gig Curb Bit 114
122.—Buxton Bit 114
123.—Swivelled Bridoon Bit 114
124, 125.—Breaking Bits 114
126.—Breaking Bit 115
127.—Snaffle with Indiarubber Mouth 115
128, 129.—Exercising Bits 115
130.—Show or Stallion Bit 115
131.—Double-mouthed Snaffle 116
132.—Ordinary Spur 116
133.—Officer’s Regulation Spur 116
134.—Dress Spur 116
135.—Lady’s Spur 117
136.—Trousers Spur 117
137.—Solid Stirrup 117
138.—Open Button Stirrup 117
139.—Waving Bar Stirrup 117
140.—Lady’s Stirrup 117
141.—Stirrup Slipper 118
142.—Safety Stirrup 118
143.—Flat Side Wire Front Buckle 118
144.—Front Bevelled Buckle 118
145.—Bevelled Flat Top Buckle 118
146.—West End Bevelled Flat Top Buckle 118
147.—Spade Buckle 119
148.—Square Wire Buckle 119
149.—Chatham Buckle 119
150.—Flat Top Turned-up Buckle 119
151.—Fluted Buckle 119
152.—Swelled Front Bent-leg Buckle 119
153.—Flat Top Cab Buckle 119
154.—West End Whole Buckle 119
155.—Chased Buckle 120
156.—Melbourne Buckle 120
157.—Square Buckle 120
158, 159.—Covered Buckles 120
160, 161.—Part-covered Buckles 120
162.—Shaft Tug Buckle 121
163.—Burgess’s Buckle 121
164.—Ball Terret 121
165.—Plain Terret 121
166 to 168.—Ball Terrets 122
169 to 172.—Hames 123
173, 174.—Bearing-rein Swivels 123
175, 176.—Roller Buckles 124
177.—Hame Clip 125
178, 179.—Breeching Dees 125
180, 181.—Winkers 129
182.—Van Saddle 131
183.—Van Saddle Flap 131
184.—Van Saddle Panel 131
185.—Chain and Leather Gig Front 140
186.—Chain and Leather Gig Front 141
187.—Chain and Leather Gig Front 143
188.—Crupper Dock 147
189.—Breeching, etc. 147
190.—Back-band 147
191.—Shaft Tugs 147
192.—Four-wheeled Cab Saddle 153
193.—Cab Saddle Tree 153
194.—Hansom Cab Saddle 154
195, 196.—Rein Stops 154
197.—Hansom Cab Harness 155
HARNESS MAKING.
CHAPTER I.
HARNESS-MAKERS’ TOOLS.
Harness making and repairing is a branch of leather work that can
often be undertaken profitably by many persons, and the information
given in the following pages has been adapted specially to the
amateur’s requirements. Doubtless the readers of a companion
handbook on “Boot Making and Mending” have wished to pursue further
the subject of leather working, and will take up the making and
repairing of harness with pleasure. Aspirants to more highly skilled
work will find “Practical Saddlery” of the greatest possible use to
them, whilst readers less ambitious may look to “Leather Working”
for instructions on making a number of articles, such as bags,
portmanteaus, and cases, for which there is general employment and a
consequently great demand. The two books just mentioned are issued
uniform in style and price with the present work.
In this handbook it is proposed to treat the subject of harness
making so fully that anyone possessing tact and sense can make a set
of harness from the instructions given, or, at any rate, keep harness
in good repair. A start will be made by describing the tools that
will be necessary. In the list given below, every essential tool is
specified and its uses explained. The tools are very numerous, but
the amateur may dispense with many of them; for though all of them
may have to be employed by a tradesman in turning out finished work,
an amateur may be content with a much smaller outfit. The tools are
not bulky, however, and all that are necessary for making a double
set of harness could be carried in a small handbag, excepting, of
course, the mallet and collar-iron.
[Illustration: Fig. 1.—Paring Knife.]
The tools are here classified as (_a_) cutting tools, (_b_) punches
and tools of percussion, (_c_) tools for setting out, marking, and
ornamenting, (_d_) awls and needles for perforating, (_e_) tools for
gripping and holding work, (_f_) tools used in stuffing collars and
saddles, and (_g_) miscellaneous. It may be remarked that saddlers’
tools, as well as harness-makers’, are included in this chapter.
[Illustration: Fig. 2.—Hand Knife.]
With regard to cutting tools, a paring knife (Fig. 1) and a hand
knife (Fig. 2) are used for cutting thread, paring down, and
splicing, and are otherwise generally useful. The round knife (Fig.
3) is used by saddlers instead of the hand knife for cutting,
splicing, and thinning leather; they can be had in different sizes,
suited to light and heavy work; their chief use is in thinning the
edges of leather, and for giving a rounded appearance to lined
straps, such as nosebands, traces, breeching straps, etc. The head
knife (Fig. 4) is used for cutting the holes for buckle tongues and
cutting any circular shapes or holes in leather.
Fig. 5 is a cutting gauge made in iron or wood. A knife passes
through the ruled stem, and is held firmly by a screw. It is adjusted
by shifting the block, which is also held by a screw.
[Illustration: Fig. 3.—Round Knife.]
[Illustration: Fig. 4.—Head Knife.]
A plough or plough gauge (Fig. 6) is very useful when much strap or
belt cutting has to be done. By means of it, straps can be cut from ¾
in. to 4 in. wide, by sliding the knife backwards or forwards along
the marked gauge. Straps can be cut much more quickly by this machine
than by hand, and it quite dispenses with the use of the round knife
and compasses. A slightly different plough is illustrated by Figs. 7
and 8.
[Illustration: Fig. 5.—Cutting Gauge.]
The slitting machine (Fig. 9) is useful for thinning straps which
are to be drawn down to half or one-third their thickness. A
saddler’s spokeshave (Fig. 10) may be used for the same purpose as
the slitting machine. It is suitable for thinning light straps, and
not only takes less time to adjust, but does the work more quickly
than the slitter. The chief use of the spokeshave, however, is to
trim and finish traces, backbands, etc. After a trace or backband or
other lined strap is stitched, the uneven edges require to be rounded
and smoothed; this is done by clamping the strap between the knees,
holding the clamp a little straighter than when stitching, and using
the spokeshave.
[Illustration: Fig. 6.—Plough, or Plough Gauge.]
[Illustration: Fig. 7.—Side Elevation of Plough Gauge.]
Edge trimmers (Fig. 11) are for running along the edges of straps
of all kinds to take off the sharp edge and sides before dyeing. It
is made in sizes 1 to 8. Sharp and strong scissors are necessary for
cutting linings, basil, and other kinds of thin leather. The washer
cutter (Fig. 12) is used for cutting round pieces of leather by rule;
the knife can be set at all sizes up to 6 in.
[Illustration: Fig. 8.—End Elevation of Plough Gauge.]
[Illustration: Fig. 9.—Slitting Machine.]
[Illustration: Fig. 10.—Spokeshave]
[Illustration: Fig. 11.—Edge Trimmer.]
[Illustration: Fig. 12.—Washer Cutter.]
Punches are indispensable, and half a dozen different sizes each of
round (Fig. 13) and oval (Fig. 14) tools should be obtained. Round
punches are made in sizes from No. 1, suitable only for very narrow
straps, to No. 16, which make a hole ⅝ in. in diameter. Oval punches
are numbered, according to size, from 17 to 32, and make a hole of
similar dimensions to the round punches just mentioned. Punches of
intermediate sizes, Nos. 3 to 13 or Nos. 19 to 29, will, however,
answer for most repairing jobs. The ovals are preferable in most
cases, as they make holes in the straps large enough for the purpose
without impairing the strength so much as the round ones do. Buckle
tongue punches, or crew punches (Fig. 15) are handy; these are made
in three or four sizes, and they run from No. 33 to No. 43, and are
used for making the holes that take the heel of the buckle tongue
when the buckle is placed in its chape. This hole may also be made
by punching two holes at a suitable distance from each other, and
cutting between them, thus [Illustration: symbol for cutting between
two holes] The strap has to be bent and a hole cut through the bent
end, the piece between the holes for the tongue of the buckle being
afterwards cut out. The punches shown by Figs. 16 to 18 may be used
to cut saddle girth chapes, brace ends, etc.
[Illustration: Fig. 13.—Round Punch.]
[Illustration: Fig. 14.—Oval Punch.]
[Illustration: Fig. 15.—Buckle Tongue or Crew, Punch.]
[Illustration: Fig. 16.—Girth Chape Punch.]
[Illustration: Fig. 17.—Brace End Punch.]
A hand punch (Fig. 19) is useful for punching holes in small straps,
or for making holes in harness whilst it is worn by a horse. Saddlers
are sometimes called upon to do this, and without a hand punch the
work is awkward, necessitating the use of mallet, punch, and lead.
Fig. 20 shows a loose nipple which can be obtained in various sizes
to screw in the handle.
[Illustration: Fig. 18.—Forepart of Brace End Punch.]
[Illustration: Fig. 19.—Hand Punch.]
Scalloping irons (Figs. 21 to 24), vandyke, round, straight, and
half-moon are used for cutting any fancy or ornamental designs in
American cloth or fancy leather. Rosette punches (Figs. 25 and 26) in
sets of three or four, are useful for making rosettes in patent fancy
coloured leather or for cutting out round scalloped edge pieces.
[Illustration: Fig. 20.—Hand Punch Nipple.]
[Illustration: Figs. 21 to 24.—Scalloping Irons.]
A lead piece (Fig. 27) for punching on should be from 6 in. to 8 in.
square, and about 1½ in. thick. Lead is used because, being soft, it
does not damage the points of the punches; but if lead is not handy,
a block of wood 5 in. or 6 in. thick will do, if set up on end so
that the punch does not cut across the grain.
[Illustration:
Fig. 25.
Fig. 26.
Figs. 25 and 26.—Rosette Punches.]
[Illustration: Fig. 27.—Lead Piece.]
[Illustration: Fig. 28.—Wooden Mallet.]
A wooden mallet (Fig. 28) for punching is also required, and a
lignum-vitæ round mallet to work the forewales and shape the stuffed
bodies of collars. Other useful mallets are shown by Figs. 29 and
30. Two hammers are necessary, one fairly light—the proper saddler’s
hammer (Fig. 31)—and the other a heavy one for heavy work.
[Illustration: Figs. 29 and 30.—Useful Wooden Mallets.]
Tools for marking and ornamenting leather may now be mentioned. Fig.
32 shows a tool used in stamping the lines preparatory to stitching.
These tools vary in width from three teeth, which are used only for
round points and scalloped work, to twenty-four teeth for straight
lines. The teeth on each iron are cut to mark a certain number of
stitches per inch, from six to sixteen, and these teeth are not at
right angles to the flat part of the iron, but are cut on the slant
as at B, thus making an impression on the leather which acts as a
guide in forming a stitch perfect in shape as well as in length.
[Illustration:
Fig. 31.
Fig. 32.
Fig. 33.
Fig. 34.
Fig. 31.—Saddlers’ Hammer. Fig. 32.—Pricking-iron.
Figs. 33 and 34.—Wheel Prickers.]
Wheel prickers (Figs. 33 and 34) are used in sizes from seven or
eight to sixteen teeth to the inch. They are round pieces of steel,
having serrated edges and a hole in the centre, and are provided with
a handle in which they are adjusted with a pin and nut. A change of
stitch, say from fine to coarse, necessitates a change of wheel. The
wheel is run along the stitching line, and in the holes made by the
pricks the stitches are run.
The screw-race (Fig. 35) is a tool for grooving lines in any part
where it is desired to sink the stitches below the surface. It is
easily adjustable.
[Illustration: Fig. 35.
Fig. 35.—Screw-race.]
[Illustration: Fig. 36.
Fig. 36.—Single Crease.]
[Illustration: Fig. 37.
Fig. 37.—Screw-crease.]
Single creases (Fig. 36) are for marking in places where neither the
screw-crease nor the compasses can go, as for instance, in the centre
of a large piece of leather or wide strap. They are also used to mark
thick and heavy loops, for which purpose they are heated before using.
Two screw-creases must be obtained, one light and the other heavy
(Fig. 37); one is used for light lines and the other for heavy
lines along the edge of the leather, and for marking the lines for
stitching. By means of the screw, the points are closed or opened,
thus bringing the line nearer to the edge of the work or taking it
farther away.
[Illustration: Fig. 38.—Checker.]
[Illustration: Fig. 39.—Beveller.]
[Illustration: Fig. 40.—Compasses.]
[Illustration: Fig. 41.—Race Compasses.]
Checkers (Fig. 38) are small double creases with two parallel edges,
one of which marks the small ornamental checked lines on loops; one
edge is run along the last line done, which thus serves as a guide
for keeping the lines parallel. Sizes 1, 2, and 3 will be sufficient.
A brass foot-rule, of course, must be obtained.
[Illustration: Fig. 42.—Awl Blade.]
Bevellers (Fig. 39) resemble the single creases, but are much thicker
and bevelled; they are used for the sole purpose of creasing or
marking loops on portions that require ornamenting. In use, they are
heated and then made to form a deep, wide groove on the loop, such as
the straight cross lines on the front, and any fancy shapes worked on
the outside of the loop.
Compasses (Fig. 40) should have a screw and regulator so that they
may be set at different widths. They are used for marking the widths
of straps to be cut and for marking distances, etc.
Race compasses (Fig. 41) are for the purpose of cutting a slight
groove or line along the edges; they just take off a narrow strip of
the grain and leave a faint line, which is blacked with the edges.
It answers the same purpose as the line cut with the screw-crease,
either ornamenting the straps or marking the line for the stitches.
[Illustration: Fig. 43.—Awl Blade.]
With regard to perforating tools, a few awl blades (Figs. 42 and 43)
and hafts may be obtained. Stitching blades vary in sizes from 1¼ in.
to 3 in. long. Hold the blade fast in the vice, and with a few sharp
blows of a light hammer drive the haft or handle on the awl, which
is then ready for use. Fig. 44 shows a sewing awl. Strong thick awls
will be required for coarse work, to stitch, say, a thread of seven,
eight, or even more cords of hemp in one thread, and the thickness of
the awl should diminish until the fine awl for stitching fine silk
and cotton threads is obtained. Bent awls (Fig. 45) in one or two
sizes, such as shoemakers use, are employed for putting in wire in
saddle flabs for fastening the panel; they have other uses also.
[Illustration: Fig. 44.—Sewing Awl.]
Half a dozen packets of harness needles (Figs. 46 and 47), varying in
size from No. 2 to No. 6, will be necessary; the lowest number is the
coarsest. These needles are for wax thread and all other stitching
threads. Needles will also be required as follows:—2-in. or 3-in.
needles for quilting saddle panels, etc.; pointed needles for thimble
work in stitching linings to saddle panels, etc.; collar needles of
different sizes, half-moon shape and straight with bent points; these
are from 3 in. to 6 in. long, the longest being for heavy cart collar
work and the lightest for patent and light harness collars.
[Illustration: Fig. 45.—Bent Awl.]
The seat-awl (two shapes are shown by Figs. 48 and 49) is for easing
and levelling stuffing in collars, saddles, and other stuffed or
padded articles. It is also useful for levelling thread; this is
turned once around the round awl, which is then drawn sharply
backwards and forwards, the lumps thus being taken out of the thread.
[Illustration:
Fig. 46. Fig. 47. Fig. 48. Fig. 49.
Figs. 46 and 47.—Harness Needles. Figs. 48 and 49.—Seat Awls.]
The hand-or palm-iron (Figs. 50 and 51) is a kind of thimble used on
the palm of the hand when driving collar needles through leather. A
shallow honeycombed well is formed in the hand part, which prevents
the needle from slipping, however great the pressure may be; and at
the end or point a hole is bored lengthwise, about ⅛ in. deep, to
take the eve end of the needle and force it closer to the leather
when the broad part of the iron is not available.
[Illustration:
Fig. 50. Fig. 51.
Figs. 50 and 51.—Hand-irons or Palm-irons.]
[Illustration: Fig. 52.—Clamp or Clams.]
[Illustration: Fig. 53.—Clamp for Sewing Shaft-tugs.]
[Illustration: Fig. 54.—Home-made Clamp Holding Work.]
[Illustration: Fig. 55.—Jaws of Clamp.]
Holding and gripping tools include the clamp, known also as the pair
of clams. Fig. 52 shows the ordinary type, while Fig. 53 is the kind
used in sewing shaft-tugs. Held between the knees in a slightly
slanting position, the clamp keeps the work firmly in position while
the stitching is being done; it lies against the left knee, and by
throwing the right leg over it the work is held fast between the
gripping points. Note that the saddler has the clamp between his
legs in a slanting direction, and not as the shoemaker, who has them
straight up, almost against his nose, when bending over the work. One
reason for this is that the work done by the saddler with the clamp
requires more force to press the awl through than the work done by
the shoemaker; consequently the saddler must set his clamp against
some firm object (his left knee) so that it will not yield under the
pressure. Another reason is that the saddler stitches with needles,
while the shoemaker uses bristles, and must see the hole made by the
awl, as the bristles cannot force their way, as the needles, to some
slight extent, are able to do. The saddler feels for the hole with
his needle and thus becomes accustomed to finding the hole without
looking, and to getting his needle to follow the awl as the latter is
drawn back; in fact, the needle is inserted in the unseen lower side
with more accuracy than on the top side, which is in view.
[Illustration: Fig. 56.—Nail-claw.]
[Illustration: Fig. 57.—Cutting Pliers.]
A clamp can be made easily by the worker at home. The parts A and
B (Fig. 54) are made from two oak cask or barrel staves. The lower
portion C may be a sound piece of white deal, 20 in. by 3 in. by 3
in., and the only other requisites will be eight stout 2¼ in. screws.
The staves should be cut 2 ft. long by at least 3 in. wide, the
points of greatest convexity being in the centre; the more bent the
staves are the more useful the clamp will be. Clean up the outside
with a spokeshave, leaving one end the full thickness of the staves,
or about 1 in., and thinning off gradually to about ¾ in. towards
the upper ends, which are to form the jaws of the clamp (Fig. 55).
Round off the outer corners, and clean up the inside surface flat,
smoothing both sides with glass-paper. The dovetail-shaped tenon
in the lower part C, should be at least 6 in. in length, and will
require careful cutting, the depth of the shoulders and the width
of the upper end depending upon the amount of curve in the staves
which are to be attached to it. It should be borne in mind that the
object is to embed the staves so firmly that their upper ends, or
the jaws of the tool, press tightly together. With this object the
tenon should be cut, so that energetic screwing will be required to
bring the staves home into their final position. The screws should be
countersunk flush with the surface of the staves.
[Illustration: Fig. 58.—Iron Collar Rod.]
A small wrench and a medium-sized vice will often be found useful.
A nail-claw (Fig. 56) is required for pulling out the nails used to
keep the work together. Pincers, nippers, and cutting pliers (Fig.
57) will be found useful as occasion demands.
An iron collar rod (Fig. 58) for stuffing the forewale must be
obtained, as well as a hardwood stick, about 2 ft. 6 in. long, and
having a =V=-shaped point, for filling the body of collars with
straw; the stick is flat towards the =V=-shaped end, and round at the
other end, the corners being rounded off smooth.
[Illustration: Fig. 59.—Steel Seat-iron.]
A steel seat-iron (Fig. 59) is used in putting flock into cart-saddle
panels, but chiefly for stuffing the peak of riding saddles, as the
tool bends nicely with the shape of the saddle without tearing the
cover or stretching it immoderately.
Loop-sticks (Fig. 60) are made of hardwood in various sizes to suit
the width and thickness of the straps. A set made of hard boxwood or
iron, varying in width from ½ in. to 2 in., and in thickness from ⅛
in. to ½ in., should be obtained. Less room is wanted in shaping a
loop for a single strap than when a strap of two or three thicknesses
is required to go through a loop. (A loop is the piece of leather
placed crosswise on straps having buckles, and it keeps the point
of the strap in its proper position.) A loop stick must be obtained
that is thick enough and wide enough for a trace 1¾ in. wide and
proportionately thick; there must also be one sufficiently thin and
narrow for a ½-in. strap; loop sticks for intermediate sizes are
also necessary, and it is as well to get two each of some of the
sizes. For instance, those things that are done in pairs, such as
bridle-cheeks, shaft-tugs, etc., will require the use of two loop
sticks of the same size. Good loop sticks are essential to turning
out good work.
[Illustration: Fig. 60.—Loop-stick.]
[Illustration: Fig. 61.—Rubber.]
A rubber (Fig. 61) made of a piece of hard, close-grained wood or
of thick glass about 6 in. square and =V=-shaped on one edge is
used to smooth down two edges whipped together, or for flattening
and levelling any two thin substances, such as leather and linen
pasted or stitched together; it is also used to rub stitching on
the underside of traces or any double straps, and for rubbing or
stretching damped leather.
The straining fork (Fig. 62) is sometimes employed for stretching wet
webbing or leather, one end of which is nailed down and the other end
strained with the fork and secured until dry.
[Illustration: Fig. 62.—Straining Fork.]
A coarse file or rasp may be necessary to file down wooden and cane
driving whip-stocks, etc., when putting on thongs and in splicing
whip-sticks to level the splice so that both of the parts may lie
flat against each other. A small round file and a small square one,
as well as two or three coarser ones, are sure to come in handy.
Amongst their uses will be the filing down of the brass or ironwork
of saddles, and the making of holes in saddle trees, etc.