CHAPTER XIII.

NAGÂRA. FESTIVAL OF BUDDHA’S SKULL-BONE. OTHER RELICS, AND HIS SHADOW.

Going west for sixteen yojanas,[1] he came to the city He-lo[2] in

the borders of the country of Nagâra, where there is the flat-bone

of Buddha’s skull, deposited in a vihâra[3] adorned all over with

gold-leaf and the seven sacred substances. The king of the country,

revering and honouring the bone, and anxious lest it should be stolen

away, has selected eight individuals, representing the great families

in the kingdom, and committing to each a seal, with which he should

seal (its shrine) and guard (the relic). At early dawn these eight men

come, and after each has inspected his seal, they open the door. This

done, they wash their hands with scented water and bring out the bone,

which they place outside the vihâra, on a lofty platform, where it is

supported on a round pedestal of the seven precious substances, and

covered with a bell of lapis lazuli, both adorned with rows of

pearls. Its colour is of a yellowish white, and it forms an imperfect

circle twelve inches round,[4] curving upwards to the centre. Every

day, after it has been brought forth, the keepers of the vihâra ascend

a high gallery, where they beat great drums, blow conchs, and clash

their copper cymbals. When the king hears them, he goes to the vihâra,

and makes his offerings of flowers and incense. When he has done this,

he (and his attendants) in order, one after another, (raise the bone),

place it (for a moment) on the top of their heads,[5] and then depart,

going out by the door on the west as they entered by that on the east.

The king every morning makes his offerings and performs his worship,

and afterwards gives audience on the business of his government. The

chiefs of the Vaiśyas[6] also make their offerings before they

attend to their family affairs. Every day it is so, and there is no

remissness in the observance of the custom. When all the offerings are

over, they replace the bone in the vihâra, where there is a vimoksha

tope,[7] of the seven precious substances, and rather more than five

cubits high, sometimes open, sometimes shut, to contain it. In front

of the door of the vihâra, there are parties who every morning sell

flowers and incense,[8] and those who wish to make offerings buy

some of all kinds. The kings of various countries are also constantly

sending messengers with offerings. The vihâra stands in a square of

thirty paces, and though heaven should shake and earth be rent, this

place would not move.

Going on, north from this, for a yojana, (Fâ-hien) arrived at the

capital of Nagâra, the place where the Bodhisattva once purchased

with money five stalks of flowers, as an offering to the Dîpâṅkara

Buddha.[9] In the midst of the city there is also the tope of Buddha’s

tooth, where offerings are made in the same way as to the flat-bone of

his skull.

A yojana to the north-east of the city brought him to the mouth of a

valley, where there is Buddha’s pewter staff;[10] and a vihâra also

has been built at which offerings are made. The staff is made of

Gośîrsha Chandana, and is quite sixteen or seventeen cubits long. It

is contained in a wooden tube, and though a hundred or a thousand men

ere to (try to) lift it, they could not move it.

Entering the mouth of the valley, and going west, he found Buddha’s

Saṅghâli,[11] where also there is reared a vihâra, and offerings are

made. It is a custom of the country when there is a great drought, for

the people to collect in crowds, bring out the robe, pay worship to

it, and make offerings, on which there is immediately a great rain

from the sky.

South of the city, half a yojana, there is a rock cavern, in a great

hill fronting the south-west; and here it was that Buddha left his

shadow. Looking at it from a distance of more than ten paces, you

seem to see Buddha’s real form, with his complexion of gold, and

his characteristic marks[12] in their nicety clearly and brightly

displayed. The nearer you approach, however, the fainter it becomes,

as if it were only in your fancy. When the kings from the regions all

around have sent skilful artists to take a copy, none of them have

been able to do so. Among the people of the country there is a saying

current that ‘the thousand Buddhas[13] must all leave their shadows

here.’

Rather more than four hundred paces west from the shadow, when

Buddha was at the spot, he shaved his hair and clipt his nails, and

proceeded, along with his disciples, to build a tope seventy or eighty

cubits high, to be a model for all future topes; and it is still

existing. By the side of it there is a monastery, with more than seven

hundred monks in it. At this place there are as many as a thousand

topes[14] of Arhans and Pratyeka Buddhas.[15]

NOTES

[1] Now in India, Fâ-hien used the Indian measure of distance; but

it is not possible to determine exactly what its length then was. The

estimates of it are very different, and vary from four and a half or

five miles to seven, and sometimes more. See the subject exhaustively

treated in Davids’ ‘Ceylon Coins and Measures,’ pp. 15–17.

[2] The present Hidda, west of Peshâwar, and five miles south of

Jellalabad.

[3] ‘The vihâra,’ says Hardy, ‘is the residence of a recluse or

priest;’ and so Davids:—‘the clean little hut where the mendicant

lives.’ Our author, however, does not use the Indian name here, but

the Chinese characters which express its meaning—tsing shay, ‘a

pure dwelling.’ He uses the term occasionally, and evidently, in this

sense; more frequently it occurs in his narrative in connexion with

the Buddhist relic worship; and at first I translated it by ‘shrine’

and ‘shrine-house;’ but I came to the conclusion, at last, to employ

always the Indian name. The first time I saw a shrine-house was, I

think, in a monastery near Foo-chow;—a small pyramidal structure,

about ten feet high, glittering as if with the precious substances,

but all, it seemed to me, of tinsel. It was in a large apartment of

the building, having many images in it. The monks said it was the most

precious thing in their possession, and that if they opened it, as I

begged them to do, there would be a convulsion that would destroy the

whole establishment. See E. H., p. 166. The name of the province of

Behar was given to it in consequence of its many vihâras.

[4] According to the characters, ‘square, round, four inches.’

Hsüan-chwang says it was twelve inches round.

[5] In Williams’ Dictionary, under 頂, the characters, used here,

are employed in the phrase for ‘to degrade an officer,’ that is, ‘to

remove the token of his rank worn on the crown of his head;’ but to

place a thing on the crown is a Buddhistic form of religious homage.

[6] The Vaiśyas, or bourgeois caste of Hindu society, are described

here as ‘resident scholars.’

[7] See Eitel’s Handbook under the name vimoksha, which is explained

as ‘the act of self-liberation,’ and ‘the dwelling or state of

liberty.’ There are eight acts of liberating one’s self from all

subjective and objective trammels, and as many states of

liberty (vimukti) resulting therefrom. They are eight degrees of

self-inanition, and apparently eight stages on the way to nirvâṇa. The

tope in the text would be emblematic in some way of the general idea

of the mental progress conducting to the Buddhistic consummation of

existence.

[8] This incense would be in long ‘sticks,’ small and large, such as

are sold to-day throughout China, as you enter the temples.

[9] ‘The illuminating Buddha,’ the twenty-fourth predecessor of

Śâkyamuni, and who, so long before, gave him the assurance that he

would by-and-by be Buddha. See Jâtaka Tales, p. 23.

[10] The staff was, as immediately appears, of Gośîrsha Chandana, or

‘sandal-wood from the Cow’s-head mountain,’ a species of copper-brown

sandal-wood, said to be produced most abundantly on a mountain of (the

fabulous continent) Ullarakuru, north of mount Meru, which resembles

in shape the head of a cow (E. H., pp. 42, 43). It is called a ‘pewter

staff’ from having on it a head and rings and pewter. See Watters,

‘China Review,’ viii, pp. 227, 228, and Williams’ Dictionary, under

杖.

[11] Or Saṅghaṭi, the double or composite robe, part of a monk’s

attire, reaching from the shoulders to the knees, and fastened round

the waist (E. H., p. 118).

[12] These were the ‘marks and beauties’ on the person of a supreme

Buddha. The ṛishi Kalâ Devala saw them on the body of the infant Śâkya

prince to the number of 328, those on the teeth, which had not yet

come out, being visible to his spirit-like eyes (M. B., pp. 148, 149).

[13] Probably = ‘all Buddhas.’

[14] The number may appear too great. But see what is said on the size

of topes in chap. iii, note 4.

[15] In Singhalese, Pasê Buddhas; called also Nidâna Buddhas,

and Pratyeka Jinas, and explained by ‘individually intelligent,’

‘completely intelligent,’ ‘intelligent as regards the nidânas.’

This, says Eitel (pp. 96, 97), is ‘a degree of saintship unknown to

primitive Buddhism, denoting automats in ascetic life who attain to

Buddhaship “individually,” that is, without a teacher, and without

being able to save others. As the ideal hermit, the Pratyeka Buddha

is compared with the rhinoceros khadga that lives lonely in the

wilderness. He is also called Nidâna Buddha, as having mastered the

twelve nidânas (the twelve links in the everlasting chain of cause

and effect in the whole range of existence, the understanding of

which solves the riddle of life, revealing the inanity of all forms of

existence, and preparing the mind for nirvâṇa). He is also compared

to a horse, which, crossing a river, almost buries its body under the

water, without, however, touching the bottom of the river. Thus in

crossing saṃsâra he “suppresses the errors of life and thought,

and the effects of habit and passion, without attaining to absolute

perfection.”’ Whether these Buddhas were unknown, as Eitel says, to

primitive Buddhism, may be doubted. See Davids’ Hibbert Lectures, p.

146.

A Record of Buddhistic Kingdoms Being an account by the Chinese monk Fâ-hien of his travels in India and Ceylon (A.D. 399-414) in search of the Buddhist books of discipline · 第 13 / 40 章