OVERHAULING THE CAR
Before starting to dismantle the car for overhauling, see that all
the necessary tools are at hand and in good condition. Place them out
separately on a bench or board near the car. Then secure a number of
boxes to hold the parts of each unit in order that they may not become
intermixed.
When overhauling is to take place, start at the front of the car and
work back. First, disconnect and remove the radiator and inspect the
tubes for dents or jams. If any of any consequence are found, pry the
fins up and down on the tubes clearing the affected part, which is
removed and replaced with a new piece of tubing and soldered in place.
Then turn a stream of water into the radiator and let it run for fully
an hour, or until it is fully flushed out. Next, inspect the hose
connections, as the rubber lining often becomes cracked and breaks away
from the fabric which retards the circulation, by filling the passage
with hanging shreds of rubber. Then plug up the lower entrance to the
water jackets and fill the jackets with a solution of 2 gal. of water
to ¹⁄₂ lb. of washing soda. Let this solution stand in the jackets for
one-half hour; then flush out with clean water. The carburetor and
manifolds should be removed and cleaned. The float, if cork, should be
allowed to dry. It is then given a coat of shellac and allowed to dry
before reassembling the carburetor.
The engine should then be turned over slowly to test the compression on
each cylinder. If it is found to be strong on each cylinder, the piston
rings and cylinder wall may be passed as being in good condition.
In case you find one cylinder is not as strong as the others, the
trouble may be ascertained by inspection. It may be caused by a scored
cylinder wall, worn piston rings, leaky gasket, or pitted valve
seats. Next remove the head of the motor and remove the carbon with a
scraper and wash with kerosene. If the motor is not of the detachable
head type, remove the valve cup and use a round wire brush to loosen
the carbon. It is best in this case to burn out the carbon with
oxyacetylene flame.
Next remove the valves and test the springs for shrinkage or weakness.
If any are found that do not conform in length, replace them with new
springs. Grind the valves (see previous Chapter on Valve Grinding).
Next examine the water pump and pack the boxing with a wick or hemp
cylinder packing.
=Cleaning the Lubricating System.=--Remove the plug in the bottom of
the crank case and drain out the oil. Replace the plug and pour 1 gal.
of kerosene into the crank case through the breather pipe and spin the
motor. Then remove the drain plug and allow the kerosene to drain out.
After it has quit running, turn the motor over a few times and allow
it to drain one-half hour. Replace the plug and fill the crank case
to the required level with fresh cylinder oil. Next, remove the plate
from the timing gear case and inspect the gears for wear and play. If
they are packed in grease, remove the old grease and wash out the case
with kerosene. If they receive their oil supply from the crank case
it will only be necessary to inspect them for wear. Then replace the
motor head, timing gear case plate and manifolds, using new gaskets and
new lock washers. Next clean the spark plugs and ignition systems (see
chapter on Spark Plugs and Ignition System).
Then we proceed to the different types of clutches. The cone clutch
usually does not require cleaning, but in cases where it has been
exposed to grease or lubricating oil the leather face may be cleaned
with a cloth dampened in kerosene, after which a thin coating of Neat’s
foot oil is applied to the leather facing. The cone is then replaced
and the springs adjusted until it runs true. This is determined by
holding it out and spinning it.
The wet and dry plate clutches are treated in much the same manner.
First drain out all the oil or grease and wash out the housing with
kerosene. Examine all parts for wear and adjust or replace loose parts.
Fill the housing up to the slip shaft with fresh oil or grease, that
is, providing it is a wet plate clutch. The dry plate clutch need only
be washed with kerosene to remove any grease or dirt that has lodged on
the plates.
=Cleaning the Transmission.=--First drain off the oil and wash the
gear with a brush dipped in kerosene. Then inspect the bearings for
looseness. If you find one badly worn, replace the bearing at each end
of the shaft. Next, examine the gears. If they are blunt, burred or
chipped, smooth them off on an emery wheel or with a coarse file. Wash
out the case with kerosene and fill with a thick transmission oil or
grease until the fartherest up meshing point is covered to the depth of
from 1 to 1¹⁄₂ inches. Examine the slots or notches on the horizontal
sliding shafts in the cover of the case which holds the gears in or out
of mesh. If the slots are badly worn it will be necessary to replace
sliding shafts or it may be necessary to replace the springs which hold
the ball or pin to the shaft and slots.
The universal joints are cleaned and freed of all grease and dirt. The
bushings and trunion head are inspected for looseness. If any exists a
new set of bushings will usually remedy the trouble. The housing should
then be packed with a medium or fairly heavy cup grease.
Next we come to the differential which is treated in the same manner as
the transmission, except that the housing is packed with a much heavier
grease, and new felt washers are placed at the outer end of the housing
where the axle extends to the wheels.
The rear system is then jacked up until both wheels clear the ground.
The brakes are then tested and adjusted (see chapter on Brakes), and
the rear wheels tested for looseness. If the axle is of the full
floating type looseness may be taken up by withdrawing the axle and
loosening the lock nut back of the cone and driving the notched cone
ring to the right (facing it) until the play is taken up. When
looseness is found in the semi-floating or three quarters floating axle
it is necessary to replace the outer bearing which is located inside of
the outer end of the housing tube.
Next examine the springs (see chapter on Springs and Spring Tests).
This brings us to the steering gear, which should be inspected,
tightened up, and freed from all play at the various joints and
connections, after which it should be well packed with grease.
The front wheels should be jacked up and tested for loose or worn
bearings and spindle pins. The bearings can usually be adjusted while
the loose spindle pin or bushing should be replaced. After the bearings
have been adjusted or replaced, pack the space in the hubs between the
bearings with a medium hard oil or cup grease, which will sufficiently
lubricate the bearings for 2000 miles of service.
The wheels and axles are then lined up (See chapter on Alignment).
Next, take a piece of sharp wire and remove all the dirt, gum, and
hard grease from oil holes supplying clevis joints and plain bearings.
Take up all play which is liable to produce noise and rattles with new
bolts, pins and washers. Clean and fill all grease cups boring out the
stem heads with a piece of wire.
(See chapter on Washing, Painting, and Top and Body Care.)