THE T’KLINKITS AND ALEUTS
The T’Klinkit is the name applied to all the Indians on the upper coast
who reside between the north end of Prince of Wales island and Yakutat
bay, near the base of Mt. St. Elias.
These T’Klinkits are divided into so-called tribes; virtually families,
the chieftainship descending through the female line. The T’Klinkits were
generally known to the Siwash of Puget Sound under the general name of
Stickeens.
Among the principal families of T’Klinkits are the Stickeens, located
on the Stikeen river, which is near Fort Wrangle; the Takous and Aukos,
whose headquarters are in Takou inlet and on the present site of Juneau;
the Chilkats and Chilkoots, at the present head of navigation near
Pyramid harbor; the Hoonyas, near Glacier bay, and the Hootzenoos, near
the present town of Killisnoo, and the Sitkas, on Baranoff island.
The Sitkas are really composed of two families—the Kaksutis and the
Kokwautans.
In 1858 Commander Meade, U. S. N., found it necessary to reduce to ashes
two villages of the Kake Indians on Kiou island, on account of the murder
of innocent prospectors. These Kake Indians are the most hostile of any
of the Alaska families. They are probably not T’Klinkits. It has been
urged by some that they, as well as the Haidas, just to the south of
them, are descendants of the ancient Aztecs of Mexico, who were driven
out upon the fall of the great Montezuma.
Later outbreaks occurred among the northern Indians as late as 1879.
The garrison at Sitka, which had been established in 1877, had been
withdrawn, and Catlian, chief of the Kaksutis, had an idea, and so
informed all the T’Klinkits, that the United States had abandoned the
country; the natives were sole owners, and all persons in the country
were there at their peril. He first started off making orations at Sitka,
where he stirred up the young men of his family to attempt the massacre
of all the residents of Sitka, telling his friends that “they could kill
everybody, loot the stores, secure enough to keep them several years,
take to the mountains, and in a year or so all would be forgotten by the
United States government.” Luckily for the people of Sitka, Annahootz,
the chief of the Kokwautans, learned of Catlian’s threats, and one
evening when a crowd of drunken Kaksutis attempted to pass the stockade
between what is called Indian Town and Sitka, Annahootz, with several of
his young men met them at the gate. A skirmish took place. Annahootz was
badly wounded, but prevented Catlian’s crowd from reaching the citizens.
[Illustration: YAKUTAT, ALASKA]
The then collector of customs, Col. M. D. Ball, as far as possible armed
the citizens, who patroled the town night and day until the arrival of
the mail steamer from the Sound. An urgent request was forwarded the
government for help, and help was also asked from the British government
at Victoria. The American government being dilatory, Capt. A’Court,
of H. M. S. Osprey, went immediately to the scene of trouble. Through
the urgent representations of Major Wm. Gouveneur Morris, at that time
special agent of the treasury department (afterwards collector of customs
for Alaska), the revenue marine steamer Wolcott was immediately sent
north. As soon as orders could be given, the United States corvette
Alaska was sent to Sitka. Upon the arrival of the Wolcott, Capt. A’Court
offered the hospitalities of his cabin to Mrs. Ball and family to convey
them from the scene of trouble. Col. Ball thought he, with the assistance
of the Wolcott and Alaska, could hold the natives in shape, and declined
the offer. The trouble blew over, as Catlian saw he was over-matched. The
Alaska sailed south, and trouble again being threatened the Jamestown was
ordered to that port. Under the wise regulations of Captains Beardsley
and Glass, Indian Town (so called) was cleansed, whitewashed, the
turbulent natives being made policemen and carried on the rolls of the
ship as landsmen. They liked their authority, and with their big tin
stars, brass buttons and blue uniforms kept the place in good order.
The only other trouble was in 1883, at the Hootzenoo village uprising,
when Capt. Merriman, of the navy, was forced to destroy the village, for
which he was afterwards court-martialed and acquitted.
The Chilkats and Kakes have, up to this time, had the reputations of
being the worst in Alaska.
Of the T’Klinkits and their peculiar customs and changed conditions at
the present day, the _Alaska Searchlight_ in March last had the following
to say:
“Inter-tribal wars among the natives of southeastern Alaska have become
things of the past. A century’s contact with the whites has made the
T’Klinkits a changed people, differing in exact ratio as that association
has been the more or less intimate. Gone forever are their most striking
characteristics, their native customs and institutions, until today
their warlike achievements live only in song and story. Shamenism,
witchcraft and slavery have disappeared before the growing power of the
white man as the dreams of night are chased away by the morning sun;
but as in bosky dell or depth of woodland shade the dewy shadows linger
longest, so traces of former customs still remain among those natives
farthest removed from the white man’s influence. Fierce and bloody were
the frequent wars waged among the different tribes before they felt the
rule of the Russians, who did all in their power to divert the attention
of the Indians from warfare to the less dangerous pursuit of hunting.
Gradually they caught the spirit of trade which actuated their new and
powerful neighbors, and adapted new methods for the settlement of their
feuds and differences. In time blankets and other articles of value came
to be received in payment for insulted dignity or outraged honor, for
which formerly no atonement was known save that of blood. Captives of war
became slaves to their captors and passed their lives in bondage, unless
fortune chanced to smile upon the standards of their people and they
were retaken by them. The T’Klinkits waged war upon the British Columbia
Indians and took from them many prisoners. At times the most warlike
tribes held a considerable number of slaves, but as marriages among them
were of rare occurrence, and their number depleted by sacrifice, when
the wars ceased, thus cutting off the source of supply, slavery soon
died out, until at the present time there are no slaves left. An old
doctor at the village on the Takou river has a man with him who is said
to be a slave, but he has so many opportunities to escape and implore
the protection of the law that either he must be free or does not find
his bondage irksome. Kuh-hahla-tloo-ut was formerly a slave. Her face is
an exceedingly good type of the old T’Klinkit women, who have learned
patience and submission through long years of toil and hardship. Report
has it that there is one slave at the Chilkat village of Klak-wan, but
practically he is free, although at one time he was owned by a former
chief. Under the Russian rule wars among the T’Klinkit tribes became of
rare occurrence, but the number of slaves was kept up by purchase from
the Indians of British Columbia, chiefly the Flatheads. Throughout the
history of the world in all climes and under all conditions slavery has
presented the same general characteristics, and among the T’Klinkits
there was no exception to the rule. Slaves had no civil rights whatever.
They could own no property; whatever came to them through labor or gift
belonged to the master. They could not marry without his consent, which
was rarely ever given. When liberated, as they sometimes were, they
ranked the lowest among the people and were counted with their mother’s
clan. On festive occasions they were often killed or set free. At the
death of a chief or head man it was customary to kill one or more slaves,
sometimes ten or fifteen, that they might accompany their master and
serve him in the life beyond this earthly existence. The killing of these
slaves was attended with but little pomp or ceremony, their death was the
one thing to be accomplished. Among the Chilkats, it would be decided in
a secret council which of the slaves should be put to death. Unconscious
of their impending doom they would be struck down from behind with a
huge stone hammer. Able-bodied slaves were seldom sacrificed, as they
were considered of too much value, but the old and diseased were usually
selected as victims. If a slave should learn of his doom and succeed in
escaping or concealing himself he was allowed to live, and after the
festivities were over might return to the house of his master with no
fear of punishment. Chiefs often used to help favorite slaves make their
escape. After death the body of a slave received no more honor than that
of a dog. It was denied the right of cremation and thrown upon the beach,
food for the wolves, the fish and the birds. On the last evening of great
feasts the host would retire to a corner of the house accompanied by
all his slaves and don his finest costume—one kept especially for such
occasions. His favorite slave would be called upon to dress him, and
would receive for his services his freedom. One or more of the others
would be put to death, and after the sacrifice the valor of the chief
and his ancestors would be sung, and a distribution of gifts take place.
Sometimes a host would present guests whom he wished to honor greatly
with one or more slaves. At the potlatch at Klakwan last fall the wolf
robe of the chief was taken from its hiding place and shown the people,
and no blood sacrifice demanded, though the last time their eyes rested
upon this much-prized relic it is said that six slaves were killed to do
honor to the host.”
[Illustration: VOLCANO BOGUSLOF, OF ALEUTIAN ISLANDS]
On the Aleutian islands, or peninsula of Alaska, are found the Aleuts,
still presided over by priests and bishops of the Greek church. It is
probable that no thoroughbred Aleuts now remain in the territory. The
present inhabitants of the Aleutian isles all contain Russian blood in
their veins. The mixture has improved them much, in appearance at least.
Formerly they were of diminutive stature, not unlike the Eskimo in their
appearance and in the treachery of their disposition. Now they are much
larger in size, and it would be difficult to distinguish many of them
from Europeans, so fair is their complexion and regular their features.
The children, who attend the government schools, learn everything easily,
except mathematics. They very rarely pass fractions in the arithmetic.
Many of them sing hymns and patriotic songs well, and use the English
language very fluently when at play. Apparently all are devout Christians
according to the Greek faith, but the sailor who goes ashore at night
will be accosted many times by the Aleuts, both men and women, who want
“huchi-noo,” or whisky as we would call it. Cattle, sheep and goats are
raised to a considerable extent around Unalaska. Several fine appearing
Jersey and Guernsey cows were seen there with their udders well filled
with milk. The Aleuts ride from place to place in bidarkees, or skin
canoes. About Dutch harbor are centers interesting for the tribe, and
churches and schools are maintained. The services are largely attended
by the Aleut portion of Unalaska’s population. There are a bishop and
several priests present, who chant the service in Slavonian, which is
responded to by a small choir consisting for the most part of young
boys. Vast sums are lavished on the ornamentation of Greek churches.
Many are the designs in gold and silver on the furniture used in the
service. Like in the ancient Roman churches the services are conducted
by the light of many brilliant candles of various size. Some of the
paintings that ornamented the Alaskan Greek churches, especially those
of Sitka and Kodiak, are among the finest artistic productions of the
Slavonian school. While the dignitaries are chanting the service the
greater portion of the congregation keep constantly in motion, kneeling
and bowing their heads, and kissing the floor and crossing themselves in
Grecian fashion.
The Grecian cross differs materially from the Roman cross. The Roman
cross is but one erect cross. The upright portion of the Greek cross is
crossed three times, once by a horizontal bar and twice by inclined cross
bars, one being above and the other below the horizontal bar. These
crosses are to be found on all their churches and in all their cemeteries.
Dutch harbor is the headquarters of the North American Commercial company
for the northern district, and contains such buildings as are usual in a
station of its importance. It is the outfitting point for most whalers
and sealers for Bering sea, and is the place where American war vessels
receive their supply of coal, which is imported from Nanaimo, B. C. The
harbor is one of those small bays, well protected by the steep, high
hills which surround it, that are so common in Alaska.
[Illustration: KODIAK, ALASKA]
Unalaska proper is about a mile and a half away—situated on a long, low
flat under the shadow of several lofty hills. Its harbor is as safe as
Dutch harbor, but not so handy. The Alaska Commercial company has a large
establishment there. The town consists chiefly of the company’s large
buildings and about a hundred or more small tenement houses that the
company has erected for the use of its native hunters. All the houses
are built of imported rustic, and in most cases are painted with brown
ocher. The old Greek church has been demolished to give place to a grand
new cathedral, which is now under construction. At the present time the
devotees meet to burn their incense and otherwise worship in one of the
smaller ecclesiastical buildings.
The Alaska Commercial company has secured passage of a special law
allowing the natives of Unalaska to hunt sea otters at sea on schooners
fitted out in Unalaska, a privilege that none other than they enjoy.
The readers of accounts of adventures on northern seas and frigid lands,
such as often appear in magazines and story books, are apt to confound
the fur seal, hunted for that rich under fur which he possesses, with the
hair seal hunted by the natives of northern regions for the most part
for his fat. However, the skins of the latter are of considerable value
to a savage man. In the Aleutian islands their bidarkees (skin canoes),
houses, clothing, etc., are largely made from the skin of the hair seal.
It has not been uncommon in recent years to see in the great illustrated
monthlies and weeklies pictures and descriptions of Greenland Eskimos and
Siberian Tungusees stealing upon the inoffensive seal as he lies sleeping
on a block of ice, with their short spears and other weapons used in
his capture. Though so much has been written about hair seals, but very
little has appeared in popular publications concerning the more valuable
fur seal. This is largely due to the difficulty of obtaining correct
information concerning them. In former times they inhabited the northern
and southern parts of the Atlantic and Pacific oceans. But they have
been so closely hunted that at the present time the only rookeries left
that are worthy of mention are those on the Pribylof islands, of which
St. Paul and St. George are the chief, the Copper island rookeries along
the coast of Siberia and those in the waters of Japan. There are also
rookeries in the southern seas, along the coast of Patagonia, but the
seals are not very plentiful, and owing to the inclemency of the weather
can only be obtained by raiding the rookeries.
In order that the process of hunting the fur seal may be better
understood it may be proper to give a little space to a description of
them and their habits. They are usually brown or gray in color. The
males reach maturity when about ten years old. They often measure eight
feet from the nose to the end of the flipper, and their weight often
approaches 400 pounds. Some of them live to a great age and have fine
long manes on their necks. The females arrive at maturity when about
three years old, and vary in weight from 40 to 100 pounds. The male
seals are all congregated on the rookery in the latter part of June. The
females arrive there several weeks later. As fast as the females arrive
the strong old patriarchs take them in charge, each caring for as many
as he can guard, usually about fifteen in number. Very soon after the
female reaches the island the young one, usually known as the “pup,” is
born. At birth it weighs only a couple of pounds, and grows to weigh
25 or 30 pounds during the first year. It is said the noise of fierce
fighting among the many thousands male seals that gather on these wild,
barren, rocky shores at breeding time is beyond the power of human speech
to describe. Many thousands of them are killed every year, so fierce are
their raging battles. Strange as it may seem, in most cases the young
pups do not take readily to the water at first. More often than not the
older ones have to teach them how to swim.
As soon as the pups can travel the herds leave the rookery and proceed
southward. They go through passes that separate the Aleutian islands
one from the other in the latter part of September. The 1st of November
finds them drifting around in their winter quarters off the coast of
Mexico. As soon as good weather returns they proceed northward slowly,
congregating along the various fishing banks, where they are most
successfully hunted.
The country on the main land, both on the Shumagin islands and the
Alaska peninsula as well as on the Aleutian chain, is composed of ragged
bluffs and deep canyons, betraying evidence of much volcanic activity in
recent times. Where the rocks do not come to the surface these hills are
generally covered by a thin growth of small alders which rarely grow to
be more than six or seven feet in height. Between the clusters of alder
there are often found growing salmon-berry bushes which seldom exceed a
foot in height. Grass sprinkled with fragrant violets, grows luxuriantly
in some places. In others wild strawberries and small blackberry vines
are abundant.
In those latitudes strawberries and salmon-berries are ripe in the middle
of August; red and black huckleberries and blackberries in the latter
part of September. It is one of the few places where a cranberry marsh
can be found on a steeply sloping hillside.
Sand Point station contains a store with warehouses, and customs house
and such other buildings as are usually found in a frontier trading post.
There is also a large hotel which was built during the administration of
Mr. O’Bryon as factor for Lynde & Hough. O’Bryon has since been lost in
the schooner Mary Brown which was wrecked off Queen Charlotte island on
her passage down last fall. The hotel is probably the finest building in
Alaska. It is furnished with many of the modern improvements, and helps
to give the place the appearance of one of those boom towns that used to
be seen on Puget Sound a few years ago. No one to-day knows why the hotel
was built, not even the company. It is thought that O’Bryon intended
establishing a pleasure resort for tourists who would go there to fish
and hunt during their summer vacations. In front of the station lies the
hull of the old three-masted schooner John Hancock, which was wrecked
there several years ago.
The Hancock has quite an interesting history. The gunboat John Hancock
was built at Charleston, S. C., in 1846. She was then a side-wheel
steamer. After the Mexican war she was transferred to the Pacific coast.
She was Commodore Perry’s flagship when he negotiated his famous treaty
with the emperor of Japan. In later times the Hancock was purchased by
Lynde & Hough, of San Francisco, and transformed into a three-masted
schooner for the Alaskan trade. Her model was suited for swift sailing,
having been very long and slender. She made the quickest passage ever
made by a sailing vessel on that route. After she drifted ashore the
wreck was filled with rock and a wharf was built out over it.