PLANTING

Gather the walnuts during the fall or winter, fall is better, and put

them in boxes about the size of ordinary apple boxes, putting in first a

layer of sand (the sandy loam along the valley streams is excellent)

about four inches deep, then a layer of walnuts about the same depth,

then cover these over with three or four inches more of sand. Place

these boxes out in the weather on the ground where the water will not

rise in them. The reason for putting the walnuts in boxes instead of

beds, as advised by some planters, is that the boxes may be taken to the

field or nursery and the nuts lifted carefully from the sand and placed

where they are to grow. It sometimes happens in a wet and backward

spring that the walnuts will sprout before the ground is ready for

planting, in which case they must be handled with the tenderest care and

not exposed to the atmosphere any longer than can be helped.

One grower had a bed of hybrid black walnuts. The season was late and

when the ground was ready for planting many had started to grow. He

engaged some boys to grabble out the nuts from the sand beds, urging

care, but many of the best were broken and injured. Some of them had

sent down a taproot nearly or quite three inches in length. These early

ones, under proper conditions, are the most vigorous and surest growers,

but in the treatment they received many were injured and killed.

Black walnuts are slow to germinate, sometimes laying in the ground two

years before sprouting. But if kept properly they will start by June or

July.

For the nursery the ground should be plowed deep and thoroughly

pulverized. Plant the nuts 6 to 12 inches apart in rows about 3 feet

apart. Put a handful of the sand from the boxes around each walnut. Our

soil will appreciate the sand or silt from the drifts along the valley

streams, as it has proven to be one of the best fertilizers known. If

anyone doubts this let him try a quantity of it on his kitchen garden.

[Illustration: _A California Black Walnut near McMinnville_]

On the Ford place, near the North Yamhill bridge, is one of the finest

trees in the county, 33 inches diameter, height 75 feet, spread of

branches 60 feet. Bears an abundance of nuts every year. It is 34 years

old. The seeds are much used to raise grafting stock.

Nearly all of the black walnut seed produced in the Willamette valley

will partake more or less of a mixed or hybrid nature, whether from a

California black, Japanese black, or American black. The black walnuts

are very susceptible to cross pollinization and the English walnut also,

for be it known that

With wandering bees and the sweet May breeze,

That virile tide goes far and wide.

The nut should be planted two or three inches deep. A good authority

says to place the nut on its side as it would lay after falling from the

tree. If the nut is sprouted make a hole in the well pulverized soil and

put the root carefully down into it.

The best way for planting in the orchard is to bore a hole with a post

or well auger 4 or 5 feet deep where the tree is to grow, put in a stick

of dynamite and break up the ground thoroughly.

Or, better still, bore down to permanent moisture and fill the lower

hole with good soil or other root food, then dynamite 4 or 5 feet of the

upper section of the hole. Nothing will produce a vigorous and thrifty

tree like a deep and vigorous root system, and no tree responds to

cultivation and care as does the walnut, white or black. After bursting

up the soil, excavate and put in a half bushel of barn or other mould,

well rotted. This will force the tree in the earlier years of its life

and can be no hindrance to it later. Cover the manure with a foot or two

of soil and plant. Both before and after planting the ground should be

ploughed and harrowed until it is as mellow as an ash heap. Plant three

or four nuts in a hill 6 to 8 inches apart and at the end of the first

season's growth pull out all but the most vigorous one. For

transplanting from the nursery the same methods should be followed in

the preparation of the hole and the soil as in planting the seed nuts.

If one wants to lay the foundation for a fine orchard and a fine fortune

as a consequence, these preliminary steps must not be neglected. Because

in time you expect this tree to pay you a rental of $8 to $12 a month.

If you are building a cottage that would bring in that sum, you would

put in much more work and money besides. The wise grower would rather

have a man plant six trees for him in one day than sixty. The walnut is

usually a very vigorous tree and will fight its way among adverse

conditions and surroundings, but its golden showers are much more

abundant if it is protected from the scars of battle, especially in its

youth. It almost seems to respond to the love and affection given to it

by a kind master. Animals respond to kindness, and why not the domestic

trees? It will pay you a big salary after a while when your other bank

accounts and your health and strength fail.

[Illustration: _American Black Walnuts_]

A magnificent row of nine American black walnuts, 35 or 40 years old.

The tree in the foreground is 20 inches in diameter of trunk. The

tallest of the trees is nearly 60 feet and they have a spread of more

than 70 feet. They are at the residence of Dave Johnson on the Portland

road about 8 miles from McMinnville. Seed from such trees as these would

produce the very best trees for grafting upon.

There are very few California blacks of pure strain in the country. The

hybrids or crosses with the American or eastern black walnut, are better

trees for grafting stock than the pure Californias. They are more hardy

and better adapted to our climate.

Walnut Growing in Oregon · 第 11 / 79 题