CHAPTER XIX

THE AMERICAN ARMY MARCHES TO THE TRENCHES

THE chief press officer told us that we could spend the first night in

the trenches with the American army. There were eight correspondents and

we went jingling up to the front with gas masks and steel helmets hung

about our necks and canned provisions in our pockets. It was dusk when

we left ----. Bye-and-bye we could hear the guns plainly and the villages

through which we traveled all showed their share of shelling. The front

was still a few miles ahead of us, but we left the cars in the square of

a large village and started to walk the rest of the way. We got no

further than just beyond the town. An American officer stood at the foot

of an old sign post which gave the distance to Metz, but not the

difficulties. He asked us our destination and when we told him that we

were going to spend the first night in the trenches with the American

army he wouldn't hear of it.

"There'll be trouble enough up there," he said, "without newspapermen."

He was a nervous man, this major. Every now and then he would look at

his watch. When he looked for the fourth time within two minutes he felt

that we deserved an explanation.

"I'm a little nervous," he said, "because the Boches are so quiet

tonight. I've been up here looking around for almost a week and every

night the Germans have done some shelling." He looked at his watch

again. "The first company of my battalion must be going in now." He

stood and listened for six or seven seconds but there wasn't a sound. "I

wonder what those Germans are up to?" he continued. "I don't like it. I

wish they'd shoot a little. This business now doesn't seem natural."

We turned back toward the town and left the major at his post still

listening for some sound from up there. Soon we heard a noise, but it

came from the opposite direction. Soldiers were coming. There was a bend

in the road where it straightened out in the last two miles to the

trenches. It was so dark that we could not see the men until they were

almost up to us. The Americans were marching to the front. The French

had instructed them and the British and now they were ready to learn

just what the Germans could teach them.

The night was as thick as the mud. The darkness seemed to close behind

each line of men as they went by. Even the usual marching rhythm was

missing. The mud took care of that. The doughboys would have sung if

they could. Shells wouldn't have been much worse than the silence. One

soldier did begin in a low voice, "Tramp, tramp, tramp, the boys are

marching." An officer called, "Cut out that noise." There was no tramp,

tramp, tramp on that road. Feet came down squish, squish, squish. There

was also the sound of the wind. That wasn't very cheerful, either, for

it was rising and beginning to moan a little. It seemed to get hold of

the darkness and pile it up in drifts against the camouflage screens

which lined the road.

At the spot where the road turned there was a café and across the road

a military moving picture theater. The door of the café was open and a

big patch of light fell across the road. The doughboys had to go through

the patch of light and it was almost impossible not to turn a bit and

look through the door. There was red wine and white to be had for the

asking there, and persuasion would bring an omelette. The waitress was

named Marie, but they called her Madelon. She was eighteen and had black

hair with red ribbons. She could talk a little English, too, but nobody

came to the door of the café to see the soldiers go by. There had been a

good many who passed the door of that café in three years.

The pictures could not be seen from the road, but we could hear the hum

of the machine which made them move. Presently, we went to the door and

looked. The theater was packed with French soldiers who were back from

the front to rest. American troops were going into the trenches for the

first time. Our little group of civilians had come thousands of miles to

see this thing, but the poilus did not stop to watch marching men. They

paid their 10 centimes and went into the picture show. They had an

American Western film that night, and French soldiers who only the day

before had been face to face with Germans, shelled and gassed and

harassed from aeroplanes, thrilled as Indians chased cowboys across a

canvas screen. It grew more exciting presently, for the United States

cavalry came riding up across the screen and at the head of the

cavalcade rode Lieutenant Wallace Kirke. The villain had spread the

story that he wasn't game, but there was nothing to that. The poilus

realized that before the film was done and so did the Indians.

Meanwhile the doughboys were marching by as silently as the soldiers on

the screen, for this wasn't a movie-house where they synchronized bugle

calls and rifle fire to the progress of the film. At one point in the

story there was some gun thunder, but it came at a time when the

orchestra should have been playing "Hearts and Flowers" for the love

scene in the garden. Of course, these were German guns, and they were

fired with the usual German disregard for art.

Probably the men who were marching to the trenches would have enjoyed

the scene of the home-coming of the cavalry, when Lieutenant Wallace

Kirke confounded the villain, who actually held a commission as major in

the United States army. However, the doughboys might have spotted him

for a villain from the beginning, on account of his wretched saluting.

The director should have spoken to him about that.

The marching men looked at the theater as they passed by, but only one

soldier spoke. He said: "I certainly would like to know for sure whether

I'll ever get to go to the movies again."

They went a couple of hundred yards more without a word, and then a

soldier who couldn't stand the silence any longer shouted, "Whoopee!

Whoopee!" It was too dark to conduct an investigation and too close to

the line to administer any rebuke loud enough to be effective, and so

the nearest officer just glared in the general direction of the

offender. A little bit further on the soldiers found that the road was

pock-marked here and there with shell holes. They began to realize the

importance of silence then, for they knew that where a shell had gone

once it could go again. It was necessary to walk carefully, for the road

was covered with casual water in every hollow, and there was no seeing a

hole until you stepped in it. They managed, however, to avoid the deeper

holes and to jump most of the pools.

That is, the infantry did. Late that night a teamster reported that he

had driven his four mules into a shell hole and broken the rear axle of

his wagon.

"Why didn't you send a man out ahead to look out for shell holes?" asked

the officer.

"I did," said the soldier. "He fell in first."

Presently the marching men came to the beginning of the trench system,

and they were glad to get a wall on either side of them. There was no

scramble, however, to be the first man in, and even the major of the

battalion has forgotten the name of the first soldier to set foot in the

French trenches. Some twenty or thirty men claim the honor, but it will

be difficult to settle the matter with historical accuracy. A Middle

Western farm boy, an Irishman with red hair or a German-American would

seem to fit the circumstances best, but it's all a matter of choice. As

the Americans came in the French marched out.

A trench during a relief is no good place for a demonstration, but some

of the poilus paused to shake hands with the Americans. There were

rumors that one or two doughboys had been kissed, but I was unable to

substantiate these reports. Probably they are not true, for it would not

be the sort of thing a company would forget.

Although the trenches for the most part were far from the German lines,

there was noise enough to attract attention over the way. The Germans

did not seem to know what was going on, but they wanted to know, and

they sent up a number of star shells. These are the shells which explode

to release a bright light suspended from a little silk parachute. These

parachutes hung in the air for several minutes and brightly illumined No

Man's Land. It was impossible to keep the Americans entirely quiet then.

Some said "Oh!" and others exclaimed "Ah!" after the manner of crowds at

a fire-works show.

Persiflage of this kind helped to make the men feel at home. Indeed,

the trenches did not seem altogether unfamiliar, after all their days

and nights in the practice trenches back in camp. The men were a little

nervous, though, and took it out in smoking one cigarette after another.

They shielded the light under their trench helmets. After an hour or so

a green rocket went up and all the soldiers in the American trenches put

on their gas masks. They had been drilled for weeks in getting them on

fast and a green rocket was the signal agreed upon as the warning for an

attack. Presently the word came from the trenches that the masks were

not necessary. There had been no attack. The rocket came from the German

trenches. It was quiet then all along the short trench line with the

exception of an occasional rifle shot. The wind was making a good deal

of noise out in the mess of weeds just beyond the wire and it sounded

like Germans to some of the boys. It was clearer now and a sharp eyed

man could see the stakes of the wire. They were a bit ominous, too.

"I was looking at one of those stakes," a doughboy told me, "and I kept

alooking and alooking and all of a sudden it grew a pair of shoulders

and a helmet and I let go at it."

There were others who suffered from the same optical illusion that

night, but let it be said to their credit that when a working party

examined the wire several days later they found some stakes which had

been riddled through and through with bullets.

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