CHAPTER XVI

WE VISIT THE BRITISH ARMY

He was twenty-six and a major, but he was three years old in the big

war, and that is the only age which counts today in the British army.

The little major was the first man I ever met who professed a genuine

enthusiasm for war. It had found him a black sheep in the most remote

region of a big British colony and had tossed him into command of

himself and of others. Utterly useless in the pursuit of peace, war had

proved a sufficiently compelling schoolmaster to induce the study of

many complicated mechanical problems, of subtler ones of psychology, not

to mention two languages. It is true that his German was limited to

"Throw up your hands" and "Come out or we'll bomb you," but he could

carry on a friendly and fairly extensive conversation in French. The

tuition fee was two wounds.

He was a fine, fair sample of the slashing, swanking British army which

backs its boasts with battalions and makes its light words good with

heavy guns. We rode together in a train for several hours on the way to

the British front and when I told him I was a newspaper man he was eager

to tell me something of what the British army had done, was doing and

would do.

"If they'd cut out wire and trenches and machine guns and general

staffs," said the little major, "we'd win in two months." Without these

concessions he did not expect to see the end for at least a year.

However, he was concerned for the most part with more concrete things

than predictions, and I'd best let him wander on as he did that

afternoon with no interruption save an occasional question. He was

returning to the front after being wounded. There had been boating and

swimming and tennis and "a deuced pretty girl" down there at the resort

where he had been recuperating, and yet he was glad to be back.

"You see," the little major explained, "I have been in all the shows

from the beginning and I'd feel pretty rotten if they were to pull

anything off without me. The C.O. wants me back. I have a letter here

from him. He tells me to take all the time I need, but to get back as

soon as I can. The C.O. and I have been together from the beginning. It

isn't that the new fellow isn't all right. Quite likely he's a better

officer than I am, but the C.O. wants the old fellows that he's seen in

other shows and knows all about. That's why I want to get back. I want

to see what the new fellow's doing with my men."

He limped a little still, and I pressed him to tell me about his wound.

It seemed he got it in "the April show."

"There was a bit of luck about that," he said. "I happened to take my

Webley with me when we went over, as well as my cane. They've got a

silly rule now that officers mustn't carry canes in an attack and that

they must wear Tommies' tunics, so the Fritzies can't spot them. They

say we lose too many officers because they expose themselves. Nobody

pays much attention to that rule. You won't find many officers in

Tommies' tunics, but you will find 'em out in front with their canes.

"And there's sense to it. I've always said that I wouldn't ask my men to

go any place I wasn't willing to go and to go first. 'Come on,' that's

what we say in the British army. The Germans drive their men from

behind. Some of their officers are very brave, you know, but that's the

system. I remember in one show we were stuck at the third line of barbed

wire. The guns hadn't touched it, but it wasn't their fault. There was a

German officer there, and he stood up on the parapet, and directed the

machine gun fire. He'd point every place we were a little thick and then

they'd let us have it. We got him, though. I got a machine gunner on

him. Just peppered him. He was a mighty brave officer."

I reminded the little major that I wanted to hear about his wound.

"We were coming through a German trench that had been pretty well

cleaned out, but close up against the back there was a soldier hiding.

When I came by he cut at me with his bayonet. He only got me in the

fleshy part of my leg, and I turned and let him have it with my Webley.

Blew the top of his head right off. Silly ass, wasn't he? Must have

known he'd be killed."

I asked him if his wound hurt, and he said no, and that he was able to

walk back, and felt quite chipper until the last mile.

"The first thing a wounded man wants to do," he explained, "is to get

away. If he's been hit he gets a sudden crazy fear that he's going to

get it again. Most wounds don't hurt much, and as soon as a man's out of

fire and puts a cigarette in his mouth he cheers up. He's at his best if

it's a blighty hit."

Here I was forced to interrupt for information.

"A blighty hit! Don't you know what that is? It's from the song they

sing now, 'Carry Me Back to Blighty.' Blighty's England. I think it's a

Hindustani word that means home, but I won't be sure about that. Anyhow,

a blighty hit's not bad enough to keep you in France, but bad enough to

send you to England. Those are the slow injuries that aren't so very

dangerous.

"Next to getting to Blighty a fellow wants a cigarette. I never saw a

man hit so bad he couldn't smoke. I saw a British 'plane coming down one

day and the tail of it was red. The Germans fix up their machines like

that, but I knew this wasn't paint on a British plane. He made a tiptop

landing, and when he got out we saw part of his shoulder was shot away

and he had a hole in the top of his head. 'That was a close call,' he

said, and he took out a cigarette, lighted it and took two puffs. Then

he keeled over."

The little major and I got out to stretch our legs at a station

platform, and I noticed that salutes were punctiliously given and

returned. "I suppose," I said, quoting a bit of misinformation somebody

had supplied, "that out at the front all this saluting is cut out."

"No, sir," said the little major sternly. "Somebody told that to the

last batch of recruits that was sent over, but we taught 'em better

soon. They don't get the lay of it quite. It isn't me they salute; it's

the King's uniform. Of course, I don't expect a man to salute if I pass

him in a trench; but if he's smoking a cigarette I expect him to throw

it away and I expect him to straighten up.

"You've got to let up on some things, of course. There's shaving now. I

expect my men to shave every day when they're not in the line, but you

can't expect that in the trenches. Naturally, I shave myself every day

anyhow, but I'm lenient with the men. I don't insist on their shaving

more than every other day."

When I got to the château where the visiting correspondents stay I found

the officers at mess. There were four British officers, a Roumanian

general, a member of Parliament, a Dutch painter and an American

newspaperman. As at Verdun the conversation had swung around to

literature. It all began because somebody said something about Shaw

having put up at the château when he visited the front.

"Awful ass," said an English officer who had met the playwright out

there. "He was no end of nuisance for us. Why, when he got out here we

found he was a vegetarian, and we had to chase around and have

omelettes fixed up for him every day."

"I censored his stuff," said another. "I didn't think much of it, but I

made almost no changes. Some of it was a little subtle, but I let it get

by."

"I heard him out here," said a third officer, "and he talked no end of

rot. He said the Germans had made a botch of destroying towns. He said

he could have done more damage to Arras with a hammer than the Germans

did with their shells. Of course, he couldn't begin to do it with a

hammer, and, anyway, he wouldn't be let. I suppose he never thought of

that. Then he said that the Germans were doing us a great favor by their

air raids. He said they were smashing up things that were ugly and

unsanitary. That's silly. We could pull them down ourselves, you know,

and, anyhow, in the last raid they hit the postoffice."

"The old boy's got nerve, though," interrupted another officer. "I was

out at the front with him near Arras and there was some pretty lively

shelling going on around us. I told him to put on his tin hat, but he

wouldn't do it. I said, 'Those German shell splinters may get you,' and

he laughed and said if the Germans did anything to him they'd be mighty

ungrateful, after all he'd done for them. He don't know the Boche."

"He told me," added a British journalist, "'when I want to know about

war I talk to soldiers.' I asked him: 'Do you mean officers or Tommies?'

He said that he meant Tommies.

"Now you know how much reliance you can put in what a Tommy says. He'll

either say what he thinks you want him to say or what he thinks you

don't want him to say. I told Shaw that, but he paid no attention."

Here the first officer chimed in again. "Well, I stick to what I've said

right along. I don't see where Shaw's funny. I think he's silly."

The major who sat at the head of the table deftly turned the

conversation away from literary controversy. "What did you think of

Conan Doyle?" he said.

* * * * *

Bright and early next morning we started out to follow in the footsteps

of Shaw. We went through country which had been shocked and shaken by

both sides in their battles and then dynamited in addition by the

retreating Germans. I stood in Peronne which the Germans had dynamited

with the greatest care. They left the town for dead, but against a

shattered wall was a sign which read, "Regimental cinema tonight at the

Splinters--CHARLIE CHAPLIN IN SHANGHAIED." This was first aid. A frozen

man is rubbed with snow and a town which has suffered German

frightfulness is regaled with Charlie Chaplin.

Life will come back to that town in time and to others. After all life

is a rubber band and it will be just as it was only an instant after

they let go. We turned down the road to Arras and drove between fields

which had been burned to cinders and trodden into mud by men and guns

only a few weeks ago. Now the poppies were sweeping all before them.

Into the trenches they went and over. First line, second line, third

line, each fell in turn to the redcoats. They were so thick that the

earth seemed to bleed for its wounds.

Presently we were in Arras and our officer led us into the cathedral.

"We won't stay in here long," said the officer. "The Germans drop a

shell in here every now and then and the next one may bring the rest of

the walls down. People keep away from here." This indeed seemed a very

citadel of destruction and loneliness, but as we turned to go we heard a

mournful noise from an inner room. We investigated and found a Tommy

practicing on the cornet. He was playing a piece entitled, "Progressive

Exercises for the Cornet--Number One." He stood up and saluted.

"Have the Germans bombarded the town at all today?" the captain asked.

"Yes, sir," said the Tommy. "They bombarded the square out in front here

this morning."

"Did they get anybody?"

"No, sir, only a Frenchman, sir," replied the Tommy with stiff

formality.

"Was there any other activity?"

"Yes, sir, there were some aeroplanes over about an hour ago and they

dropped some bombs in there," said the Tommy indicating a street just

back of the cathedral.

"And what were we doing?" persisted the captain.

"We were trying out some new anti-aircraft ammunition," explained the

Tommy patiently, "but I don't think it was any good, sir, because most

of it came down and buried itself over there," and he indicated a spot

some fifteen or twenty feet from his music room.

The captain could think of no more inquiries just then and the soldier

quickly folded up his cornet and his music and after saluting with

decent haste left the cathedral. For the sake of his music he was

willing to endure shells and bombs and shrapnel fragments but questions

put him off his stride entirely. He fled, perhaps, to some shell hole

for solitude.

From the cathedral we went to the town hall. Here again one could not

but be impressed with the futility of destruction. The Germans have torn

the building cruelly with their shells and their dynamite, but beauty is

tough. Dynamite a bakeshop and you have only a mess. Shell a tailor's

and rubbish is left. But it is different when you begin to turn your

guns against cathedrals and town halls. If a structure is built

beautifully it will break beautifully. The dynamite has cut fine lines

in the jagged ruins of the Town Hall. The Germans have smashed

everything but the soul of the building. They didn't get that. It was

not for want of trying, but dynamite has its limitations.

We got up to the lines the next day and had a fine view of the opposing

trench systems for ten or twelve miles. Our box seat was on top of a

hill just back of Messines ridge. We saw a duel between two aeroplanes,

the explosion of a munitions dump, and no end of big gun firing but the

officer who conducted us said that it was a dull morning. Our day on the

hill was a clear one after three days of low clouds, and all the fliers

were out in force. Almost two dozen British 'planes were to be seen from

the hilltop, as well as several captive balloons. Although the English

'planes flew well over the German lines, they drew no fire, but

presently the sky began to grow woolly. Little round white patches

appeared, one against the other, cutting the sky into great flannel

figures. Then we saw above it all a 'plane so high as to be hardly

visible. Indeed, we should not have seen it but for the telltale

shrapnel. These were our guns, and this was no friend. Now it was almost

over our heads. It seemed intent upon attacking one of the British

captive balloons, which could only stand and wait. The guns were

snarling now. We were close enough to hear the anger in every shot. The

shrapnel broke behind, below, above and in front of the aeroplane, but

on it sailed, untouched, like a glass ball in a Buffalo Bill shooting

trick.

Yet here was no poor marksmanship, for at ten thousand feet the air

pilot has forty seconds to dodge each shell. He merely has to watch the

flash of the gun and then dive or rise or slide to right or left.

Sometimes, indeed, the shrapnel lays a finger on him, but he whirls away

out of its grip like a quarterback in a broken field. The guns stopped

firing, although the German was still above the British lines. Somebody

was up to tackle him at closer range. Where our 'plane came from we did

not know. The sky was filled all morning with English fliers, but each

appeared to have definite work in hand, and not one paid the slightest

attention to the German intruder. This was a special assignment. When we

caught sight of the English flier he had maneuvered into a position

behind his German adversary. We caught the flashes from the machine

guns, but we could hear no sound of the fight above us. The 'planes

darted forward and back. They were clever little bantams, these, and

neither was able to put in a finishing blow. Our stolid guiding officer

was up on his toes now and rooting as if it were some sporting event in

progress. Looking upward at his comrade, ten thousand feet aloft, he

cried: "Let him have it!"

The hostile attitude of the spectators or something else discouraged the

German and he turned and made for his own lines. The Englishman pursued

him for a time and then gave up the chase. The consensus of opinion was

that the Briton had won the decision on points.

"They've been making a dead set for our balloons all week," said an

English soldier after the German 'plane had been driven away.

"If they get the balloon does that mean that they get the observer?" I

asked in my ignorance.

"Lord bless you no," said the soldier. "No danger for 'im, sir. He just

jumps out with a parachute."

Next we turned our attention to the big gun firing. We could see the

flash of the guns of both sides and hear the whistle of the shells.

After the flash one might mark the result if he had a sharp eye. There

was no trouble in following the progress of one particular British shell

for an instant after the flash a high column of smoke arose above a town

which the Germans held. A minute or so later we had our own column for a

German shell hit one of the many munition dumps scattered about behind

the British front. Our own hill was pocked with shell holes and the

tower near which we stood was nibbled nigh to bits and we had a wakeful,

stimulating feeling that almost any minute something might drop on or

near us. The Tommy with whom we shared the view undeceived us.

"This hill!" he said. "Why there was a time when it was as much as your

life was worth to stand up here and now the place's nothing but a

bloomin' Cook's tour resort."

Our last day with the army was spent at the University of Death and

Destruction where the men from England take their final courses in

warfare. We began with a class which was having a lesson in defense

against bombs. A tin can exploded at the feet of a Scotchman and

peppered his bare legs. Five hundred soldiers roared with laughter, for

the man in the kilt had flunked his recitation in "Trench Raiding."

Officially the Scot was dead, for the tin can represented a German bomb.

They were cramming for war in the big training camp and they played

roughly. The imitation bombs carried a charge of powder generous enough

to insure wholesome respect. The Scot, indeed, had to retire to have a

dressing made.

The trench in which the class was hard at work was perfect in almost

every detail, save that it lacked a back wall. This was removed for the

sake of the audience. An instructor stood outside and every now and

again he would toss a bomb at his pupils. He played no favorites. The

good and the bad scholar each had his chance. In order to pass the

course the soldier had to show that he knew what to do to meet the bomb

attack. He might take shelter in the traverse; he might kick the bomb

far away; or, with a master's degree in view, he might pick up the

imitation bomb and hurl it far away before it could explode. Speed and

steady nerves were required for this trick. An explosion might easily

blow off a finger or two. Yet, after all, it was practice. Later there

might be other bombs designed for bigger game than fingers.

We followed the students from bombs to bayonets. The men with the cold

steel were charging into dummies marked with circles to represent spots

where hits were likely to be vital. It looked for all the world like

football practice and the men went after the dummies as the tacklers

used to do at Soldiers' Field of an afternoon when the coach had pinned

blue sweaters and white "Y's" on the straw men. There was the same

severely serious spirit. In a larger field a big class was having

instruction in attack. Before them were three lines of trenches

protected by barbed wire ankle high. At a signal they left their trench

and darted forward to the next one. Here they paused for a moment and

then set sail for the second trench. At another signal they were out of

that and into a third trench. From here they blazed away at some targets

on the hill representing Germans and consolidated their positions.

Instructors followed the charge along the road which bordered the

instruction field. They mingled praise and blame, but ever they shouted

for speed. "Make this go now," would be the cry, and to a luckless wight

who had been upset by barbed wire and sent sprawling: "What do you mean

by lying there, anyhow?"

It was a New Zealand company which I saw, and in the class were a number

of Maoris. These were fine, husky men of the type seen in the Hawaiian

Islands. All played the game hard, but none seemed so imaginatively

stirred by it as the Maoris. They were fairly carried away by the

enthusiasm of a charge, and left their trenches each time shouting at

top voice. The capture of the third trench by no means satisfied them.

They wanted to go on and on. If the officer had not called a halt

there's no telling but that they might have invaded the next field and

bayoneted the bombardiers. Over the hill there was a rattle of machine

guns and beyond that a more scattering volume of musketry. We stopped

and watched the men at their rifle practice.

"You wouldn't believe it," said the instructor, "but we've got to keep

hammering it home to men that rifles are meant to shoot with. For a time

you heard nothing but bayonets. A gun might have been nothing more than

a pike. Later everything was bombs, and sometimes soldiers just stood

and waited till the Boches got close, so that they could peg something

at 'em. But when these men go away they're going to know that the bombs

and the bayonet are the frill. It's the shooting that counts."

We saw a good deal of the British army during our trip but the thing

which gave me the clearest insight into the fundamental fighting,

sporting spirit of the army was a story which an officer told me of an

incident which occurred in the sector where he was stationed. An

enlisted man and an officer were trapped during a daylight patrol when a

mist lifted and they had to take shelter in a shell hole. They lay there

for some hours, and then the soldier endeavored to make a break back for

his own trenches. No sooner had his head and shoulders appeared above

the shell hole than a German machine gun pattered away at him. He was

hit and the officer started to climb up to his assistance.

"No, don't come," said the soldier. "They got me, sir." He put his hand

up and indicated a wound on the left hand side of his chest. "It was a

damn good shot," he said.

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