The architecture is the nobler Italian, resembling a Roman palace: the

plan is a quadrangle, with an open area in the middle, so that all the

rooms are well lighted. The Pall-Mall front has a bold and rich

cornice, and the windows are decorated with Corinthian pilasters: the

garden front varies in the windows, but the Italian taste is preserved

throughout, with the most careful finish: the roof is Italian tiles.

To be more minute, the consent of all competent judges has assigned a

very high rank to this building as a piece of architectural design;

for if, in point of mere _quantity_, it fall greatly short of many

contemporary structures, it surpasses nearly every one of them in

_quality_, and in the artist-like treatment. In fact, it makes an

epoch in our metropolitan architecture; for before, we had hardly a

specimen of that nobler Italian style, which, instead of the flutter

and flippery, and the littleness of manner, which pervade most of the

productions of the Palladian school, is characterized by breath and

that refined simplicity arising from unity of idea and execution, and

from every part being consistently worked up, yet kept subservient to

one predominating effect. Unfortunately, the south front, which is by

far the more striking and graceful composition, is comparatively

little seen, being that facing Carlton Gardens, and not to be

approached so as to be studied as it deserves; but when examined, it

certainly must be allowed to merit all the admiration it has obtained.

Though perfect, quiet, and sober in effect, and unostentatious in

character, this building of Barry's is remarkable for the careful

finish bestowed on every part of it. It is this quality, together with

the taste displayed in the design generally, that renders it an

architectural bijou. Almost any one must be sensible of this, if he

will but be at the pains to compare it with the United Service Club,

eastward of which, as far as mere quantity goes, there is much more.

Another critic remarks: "The Travellers' fairly makes an epoch in the

architectural history of Club-houses, as being almost the first, if

not the very first, attempt, to introduce into this country that

species of rich _astylar_ composition which has obtained the name of

the Italian palazzo mode, by way of contradistinction from

Palladianism and its orders. This production of Barry's has given a

fresh impulse to architectural design, and one in a more artistic

direction; and the style adopted by the architect has been applied to

various other buildings in the provinces as well as in the metropolis;

and its influence has manifested itself in the taste of our recent

street architecture."

The Travellers' narrowly escaped destruction on October 24, 1850, when

a fire did great damage to the billiard-rooms, which were, by the way,

an afterthought, and addition to the original building, but by no

means an improvement upon the first design, for they greatly impaired

the beauty of the garden-front.

THE UNITED SERVICE CLUB.

One of the oldest of the modern Clubs, was instituted the year after

the Peace of 1815, when a few officers of influence in both branches

of the Service had built for them, by Sir R. Smirke, a Club-house at

the corner of Charles-street and Regent-street,--a frigid design,

somewhat relieved by sculpture on the entrance-front, of Britannia

distributing laurels to her brave sons by land and sea. Thence the

Club removed to a more spacious house, in Waterloo-place, facing the

Athenæum; the Club-house in Charles-street being entered on by the

Junior United Service Club; but Smirke's cold design has been

displaced by an edifice of much more ornate exterior and luxurious

internal appliances.

The United Service Club (Senior) was designed by Nash, and has a

well-planned interior, exhibiting the architect's well-known

excellence in this branch of his profession. The principal front

facing Pall Mall has a Roman-Doric portico; and above it a Corinthian

portico, with pediment. One of the patriarchal members of the Club was

Lord Lynedoch, the hero of the Peninsular War, who lived under five

sovereigns: he died in his 93rd year, leaving behind him a name to be

held in honoured remembrance, while loyalty is considered to be a real

virtue, or military renown a passport to fame. It is a curious fact

that the Duke of Wellington fought his last battle at an earlier

period of life than that in which Lord Lynedoch "fleshed his maiden

sword;" and though we were accustomed to regard the Duke himself as

preserving his vigour to a surprisingly advanced age, Lord Lynedoch

was at his death old enough to have been the father of his Grace. The

United Service was the favourite Club of the Duke, who might often be

seen dining here on a joint; and on one occasion, when he was charged

1_s._ 3_d._ instead of 1_s._ for it, he bestirred himself till the

threepence was struck off. The motive was obvious: he took the trouble

of objecting, so that he might sanction the principle.

Among the Club pictures is Jones's large painting of the Battle of

Waterloo; and the portrait of the Duke of Wellington, painted for the

Club by W. Robinson. Here also are Stanfield's fine picture of the

Battle of Trafalgar; and a copy, by Lane, painted in 1851, of a

contemporary portrait of Sir Francis Drake, our "Elizabethan

Sea-King." The Club-house has of late years been considerably

enlarged.

THE ALFRED CLUB.

In the comparatively quiet Albemarle-street was instituted, in 1808,

the Alfred Club, which has, _ab initio_, been remarkable for the

number of travellers and men of letters, who form a considerable

proportion of its members. Science is handsomely housed at the Royal

Institution, on the east side of the street; and literature nobly

represented by the large publishing-house of Mr. Murray, on the west;

both circumstances tributary to the _otium_ enjoyed in a Club. Yet,

strangely enough, its position has been a frequent source of banter to

the Alfred. First it was known by its cockney appellation of

_Half-read_. Lord Byron was a member, and he tells us that "it was

pleasant, a little too sober and literary, and bored with Sotheby and

Francis D'Ivernois; but one met Rich, and Ward, and Valentia, and many

other pleasant or known people; and it was, in the whole, a decent

resource in a rainy day, in a dearth of parties, or Parliament, or in

an empty season."

Lord Dudley, writing to the Bishop of Llandaff, says: "I am glad you

mean to come into the Alfred this time. We are the most abused, and

most envied, and most canvassed, Society that I know of, and we

deserve neither the one nor the other distinction. The Club is not so

good a resource as many respectable persons would believe, nor are we

by any means such quizzes or such bores as the wags pretend. A duller

place than the Alfred there does not exist. I should not choose to be

quoted for saying so, but the bores prevail there to the exclusion of

every other interest. You hear nothing but idle reports and twaddling

opinions. They read the _Morning Post_ and the _British Critic_. It is

the asylum of doting Tories and drivelling quidnuncs. But they are

civil and quiet. You belong to a much better Club already. The

eagerness to get into it is prodigious."

Then, we have the _Quarterly Review_, with confirmation strong of the

two Lords:--"The Alfred received its _coup-de-grâce_ from a well-known

story, (rather an indication than a cause of its decline,) to the

effect that Mr. Canning, whilst in the zenith of his fame, dropped in

accidentally at a house dinner of twelve or fourteen, stayed out the

evening, and made himself remarkably agreeable, without any one of the

party suspecting who he was."

The dignified clergy, who, with the higher class of lawyers, have long

ago emigrated to the Athenæum and University Clubs, formerly mustered

in such great force at the Alfred, that Lord Alvanley, on being asked

in the bow-window at White's, whether he was still a member, somewhat

irreverently replied: "Not exactly: I stood it as long as I could, but

when the seventeenth bishop was proposed I gave in. I really could not

enter the place without being put in mind of my catechism."

"Sober-minded people," says the _Quarterly Review_, "may be apt to

think this formed the best possible reason for his lordship's

remaining where he was. It is hardly necessary to say that the

presence of the bishops and judges is universally regarded as an

unerring test of the high character of a Club."

THE ORIENTAL CLUB.

Several years ago, the high dignitaries of the Church and Law kept the

Alfred to themselves; but this would not do: then they admitted a

large number of very respectable good young men, who were

unexceptionable, but not very amusing. This, again, would not do. So,

now the Alfred joined, 1855, the Oriental, in Hanover-square. And

curiously enough, the latter Club has been quizzed equally with the

Alfred. In the merry days of the _New Monthly Magazine_ of some thirty

years since, we read:--"The Oriental--or, as the hackney-coachmen

call it, the Horizontal Club--in Hanover-square, outdoes even Arthur's

for quietude. Placed at the corner of a _cul-de-sac_--at least as far

as carriages are concerned, and in a part of the Square to which

nobody not proceeding to one of four houses which occupy that

particular side ever thinks of going, its little windows, looking upon

nothing, give the idea of mingled dulness and inconvenience. From the

outside it looks like a prison;--enter it, it looks like an hospital,

in which a smell of curry-powder pervades the 'wards,'--wards filled

with venerable patients, dressed in nankeen shorts, yellow stockings,

and gaiters, and faces to match. _There_ may still be seen pigtails in

all their pristine perfection. It is the region of calico shirts,

returned writers, and guinea-pigs grown into bores. Such is the

_nabobery_, into which Harley-street, Wimpole-street, and

Glocester-place, daily empty their precious stores of bilious

humanity." Time has blunted the point of this satiric picture, the

individualities of which had passed away, even before the amalgamation

of the Oriental with the Alfred.

The Oriental Club was established in 1824, by Sir John Malcolm, the

traveller and brave soldier. The members were noblemen and gentlemen

associated with the administration of our Eastern empire, or who have

travelled or resided in Asia, at St. Helena, in Egypt, at the Cape of

Good Hope, the Mauritius, or at Constantinople.

The Oriental was erected in 1827-8, by B. and P. Wyatt, and has the

usual Club characteristic of only one tier of windows above the

ground-floor; the interior has since been redecorated and embellished

by Collman.

THE ATHENÆUM CLUB.

The Athenæum presents a good illustration of the present Club system,

of which it was one of the earliest instances. By reference to the

accounts of the Clubs existing about the commencement of the present

century, it will be seen how greatly they differed, both in

constitution and purpose, from the modern large subscription-houses,

called Clubs; and which are to be compared with their predecessors

only in so far as every member must be balloted for, or be chosen by

the consent of the rest. Prior to 1824, there was only one institution

in the metropolis particularly devoted to the association of Authors,

Literary Men, Members of Parliament, and promoters generally of the

Fine Arts. All other establishments were more or less exclusive,

comprising gentlemen who screened themselves in the windows of

White's, or Members for Counties who darkened the doors of Brookes's;

or they were dedicated to the Guards, or "men of wit and pleasure

about town." It is true that the Royal Society had its convivial

meetings, as we have already narrated; and small Clubs of members of

other learned Societies, were held; but with these exceptions, there

were no Clubs where individuals known for their scientific or literary

attainments, artists of eminence in any class of the Fine Arts, and

noblemen and gentlemen distinguished as patrons of science,

literature, and the arts, could unite in friendly and encouraging

intercourse; and professional men were compelled either to meet at

taverns, or to be confined exclusively to the Society of their

particular professions.

To remedy this, on the 17th of February, 1824, a preliminary

meeting,--comprising Sir Humphry Davy, the Right Hon. John Wilson

Croker, Sir Francis Chantrey, Richard Heber, Sir Thomas Lawrence, Dr.

Thomas Young, Lord Dover, Davie Gilbert, the Earl of Aberdeen, Sir

Henry Halford, Sir Walter Scott, Joseph Jekyll, Thomas Moore, and

Charles Hatchett,--was held in the apartments of the Royal Society, at

Somerset House; at this meeting Professor Faraday assisted as

secretary, and it was agreed to institute a Club to be called "The

Society," subsequently altered to "The Athenæum." "The Society" first

met in the Clarence Club-house; but, in 1830, the present mansion,

designed by Decimus Burton, was opened to the members.

The Athenæum Club-house is built upon a portion of the court-yard of

Carlton House. The architecture is Grecian, with a frieze exactly

copied from the Panathenaic procession in the frieze of the

Parthenon,--the flower and beauty of Athenian youth, gracefully seated

on the most exquisitely sculptured horses, which Flaxman regarded as

the most precious example of Grecian power in the sculpture of

animals. Over the Roman Doric entrance-portico is a colossal figure of

Minerva, by Baily, R.A.; and the interior has some fine casts of

_chefs-d'oeuvre_ of sculpture. Here the architecture is grand,

massive, and severe. The noble Hall, 35 feet broad by 57 feet long, is

divided by scagliola columns and pilasters, the capitals copied from

the Choragic Monument of Lysicrates. This is the Exchange, or Lounge,

where the members meet. The floor is the Marmorato Veneziano mosaic.

Over each of the two fire-places, in a niche, is a statue--the Diana

Robing and the Venus Victrix, selected by Sir Thomas Lawrence--a very

fine contrivance for sculptural display. The Library is the best Club

Library in London: it comprises the most rare and valuable works, and

a very considerable sum is annually expended upon the collection,

under the guidance of members most eminent in literature and science.

Above the mantelpiece is a portrait of George IV., painted by

Lawrence, upon which he was engaged but a few hours previous to his

decease; the last bit of colour this celebrated artist ever put upon

canvas being that of the hilt and sword-knot of the girdle; thus it

remains unfinished. The bookcases of the drawing-rooms are crowned

with busts of British worthies. Among the Club gossip it is told that

a member who held the Library faith of the promise of the Fathers, and

was anxious to consult their good works, one day asked, in a somewhat

familiar tone of acquaintance with these respectable theologians, "Is

Justin Martyr here?"--"I do not know," was the reply; "I will refer to

the list, but I do not think that gentleman is one of our members."

Mr. Walker, in his very pleasant work, _The Original_, was one of the

first to show how by the then new system of Clubs the facilities of

living were wonderfully increased, whilst the expense was greatly

diminished. For a few pounds a year, advantages are to be enjoyed

which no fortunes, except the most ample, can procure. The only Club

(he continues) I belong to is the Athenæum, which consists of twelve

hundred members, amongst whom are to be reckoned a large proportion of

the most eminent persons in the land, in every line,--civil, military,

and ecclesiastical,--peers spiritual and temporal (ninety-five

noblemen and twelve bishops), commoners, men of the learned

professions, those connected with science, the arts, and commerce, in

all its principal branches, as well as the distinguished who do not

belong to any particular class. Many of these are to be met with every

day, living with the same freedom as in their own houses, for 25

guineas entrance, and 6 guineas a year. Every member has the command

of an excellent library, with maps; of newspapers, English and

foreign; the principal periodicals; writing materials, and attendance.

The building is a sort of palace, and is kept with the same exactness

and comfort as a private dwelling. Every member is master, without any

of the trouble of a master: he can come when he pleases, and stay away

when he pleases, without anything going wrong; he has the command of

regular servants, without having to pay or manage them; he can have

whatever meal or refreshment he wants, at all hours, and served up as

in his own house. He orders just what he pleases, having no interest

to think of but his own. In short, it is impossible to suppose a

greater degree of liberty in living.

"Clubs, as far as my observation goes, are favourable to economy of

time. There is a fixed place to go to, everything is served with

comparative expedition, and it is not customary in general to remain

long at table. They are favourable to temperance. It seems that when

people can freely please themselves, and when they have an opportunity

of living simply, excess is seldom committed. From an account I have

of the expenses at the Athenæum in the year 1832, it appears that

17,323 dinners cost, on an average, 2_s._ 9¾_d._ each, and that the

average quantity of wine for each person was a small fraction more

than half-a-pint.

"The expense of building the Club-house was 35,000_l._, and 5,000_l._

for furnishing; the plate, linen, and glass cost 2,500_l._; library,

4,000_l._, and the stock of wine in cellar is usually worth about

4000_l._: yearly revenue about 9000_l._"

The economical management of the Club has not, however, been effected

without a few sallies of humour. In 1834, we read: "The mixture of

Whigs, Radicals, _savants_, foreigners, dandies, authors, soldiers,

sailors, lawyers, artists, doctors, and Members of both Houses of

Parliament, together with an exceedingly good average supply of

bishops, render the _mélange_ very agreeable, despite of some two or

three bores, who 'continually do dine;' and who, not satisfied with

getting a 6_s._ dinner for 3_s._ 6_d._, 'continually do complain.'"

Mr. Rogers, the poet, was one of the earliest members of the Athenæum,

and innumerable are the good things, though often barbed with

bitterness, which are recorded of him.

Some years ago, judges, bishops, and peers used to congregate at the

Athenæum; but a club of twelve hundred members cannot be select.

"Warned by the necessity of keeping up their number and their funds,

they foolishly set abroad a report that the finest thing in the world

was to belong to the Athenæum; and that an opportunity offered for

hobnobbing with archbishops, and hearing Theodore Hook's jokes.

Consequently all the little crawlers and parasites, and

gentility-hunters, from all corners of London, set out upon the creep;

and they crept in at the windows and they crept down the area steps,

and they crept in unseen at the doors, and they crept in under

bishops' sleeves, and they crept in in peers' pockets, and they were

blown in by the winds of chance. The consequence has been, that

ninety-nine hundredths of this Club are people who rather seek to

obtain a sort of standing by belonging to the Athenæum, than to give

it lustre by the talent of its members. Nine-tenths of the

intellectual writers of the age would be certainly black-balled by the

dunces. Notwithstanding all this, and partly on account of this, the

Athenæum is a capital Club: the library is certainly the best Club

library in London, and is a great advantage to a man who writes."[22]

Theodore Hook was one of the most clubbable men of his time. After a

late breakfast, he would force and strain himself at large arrears of

literary toil, and then drive rapidly from Fulham to town, and pay a

visit "first to one Club, where, the centre of an admiring circle, his

intellectual faculties were again upon the stretch, and again aroused

and sustained by artificial means: the same thing repeated at a

second--the same drain and the same supply--ballot or general meeting

at a third, the chair taken by Mr. Hook, who addresses the members,

produces the accounts, audits and passes them--gives a succinct

statement of the prospects and finances of the Society--parries an

awkward question--extinguishes a grumbler--confounds an

opponent--proposes a vote of thanks to himself, seconds, carries

it,--and returns thanks, with a vivacious rapidity that entirely

confounds the unorganized schemes of the minority--then a chop in the

committee-room, and just one tumbler of brandy-and-water, or _two_,

and we fear the catalogue would not always close there."

At the Athenæum, Hook was a great card; and in a note to the sketch of

him in the _Quarterly Review_, it is stated that the number of dinners

at this Club fell off by upwards of three hundred per annum after Hook

disappeared from his favourite corner, near the door of the

coffee-room. That is to say, there must have been some dozens of

gentlemen who chose to dine there once or twice every week of the

season, merely for the chance of Hook's being there, and permitting

them to draw their chairs to his little table in the course of the

evening. Of the extent to which he suffered from this sort of

invasion, there are several bitter oblique complaints in his novels.

The _corner_ alluded to will, we suppose, long retain the name which

it derived from him--_Temperance Corner_. Many grave and dignified

personages being frequent guests, it would hardly have been seemly to

be calling for repeated supplies of a certain description; but the

waiters well understood what the oracle of the corner meant by

"Another glass of toast and water," or, "A little more lemonade."

FOOTNOTES:

[22] New Quarterly Review.

THE UNIVERSITY CLUB.

In Suffolk-street, Pall Mall East, was instituted in 1824, and the

Club-house, designed by Deering and Wilkins, architects, was opened

in 1826. It is of the Grecian Doric and Ionic orders; and the staircase

walls have casts from the Parthenon frieze. The Club consists chiefly

of Members of Parliament who have received University education;

several of the judges, and a large number of beneficed clergymen. This

Club has the reputation of possessing the best stocked wine-cellar in

London, which is of no small importance to Members, clerical or lay.

ECONOMY OF CLUBS.

Thirty years ago, Mr. Walker took some pains to disabuse the public

mind of a false notion that female society was much affected by the

multiplication of Clubs. He remarks that in those hours of the

evening, which are peculiarly dedicated to society, he could scarcely

count twenty members in the suite of rooms upstairs at the Athenæum

Club. If female society be neglected, he contended that it was not

owing to the institution of Clubs, but more probably to the long

sittings of the House of Commons, and to the want of easy access to

family circles. At the Athenæum he never heard it even hinted, that

married men frequented it to the prejudice of their domestic habits,

or that bachelors were kept from general society. Indeed, Mr. Walker

maintains, that Clubs are a preparation and not a substitute for

domestic life. Compared with the previous system of living, they

induce habits of economy, temperance, refinement, regularity, and good

order. Still, a Club only offers an imitation of the comforts of home,

but only an imitation, and one which will never supersede the reality.

However, the question became a subject for pleasant satire. Mrs. Gore,

in one of her clever novels, has these shrewd remarks:--"London Clubs,

after all, are not bad things for family men. They act as conductors

to the storms usually hovering in the air. The man forced to remain at

home and vent his crossness on his wife and children, is a much worse

animal to bear with, than the man who grumbles his way to Pall Mall,

and not daring to swear at the Club-servants, or knock about the

club-furniture, becomes socialized into decency. Nothing like the

subordination exercised in a community of equals for reducing a fiery

temper."

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