French fleet lying at Vourla. The four combatants on these seas have
thus passed in review before us; and I cannot suppose England and France
have sent their fleets here on a pleasure trip; but that they actually
mean to do something effective. Of these four, the Russian is the
weakest, and the Turk the next in inferiority: report says, also, that
the French fleet is not in the most perfect order; but, at all events,
it is equal, if not superior, to the two former united. As soon as we
came in sight of the Madagascar, which was lying in the harbour or
roadstead of Smyrna, a boat put off from it towards the steam-vessel,
and in a few moments the King of Greece was in the arms of his brother.
The usual bustle incident to the transfer of luggage from one vessel to
another, at sea, followed; and the Prince, with all his suite, left us,
to accompany the King in his cruise on board the Madagascar.
[Sidenote: SMYRNA.] We established our quarters at a wretched little
inn, close to the water-side, kept by a negro, who had been cook on
board some English man-of-war. Unpromising as was its external
appearance, the house was clean notwithstanding; and, having all to
ourselves, except the billiard-room, we got on famously; particularly as
the dinners were wholesome, and of good, plain, English cookery. We had
plenty of soda-water, porter, and ale, which were kept constantly
flowing; for the heat was excessive. In the evening, I strolled about
this celebrated sea-port for a short time, and was much struck with the
beautiful appearance of the houses of the merchants, which, however, are
situated in narrow dirty streets. The bazars are much inferior to those
of Constantinople; and I did not see a single Smyrniote woman who had
any pretensions to beauty. In the course of the day the King landed
_incog._, and went through the town; and towards night, the Madagascar
sailed away for Syra.
[Sidenote: DEPARTURE FOR SYRA.] _Thursday, 27th._--Hotter by several
degrees than yesterday: I wish to heaven we could get away from this
broiling place. Not a breath of air stirs to relieve me, or mitigate the
weakness and fainting with which I am oppressed. I am incapable of
exertion, and, indeed, there is no inducement to walk out: it is too
much labour to play at billiards; and smoking sickens and disgusts me:
I have but one pleasure, if such it can be called; namely, that of lying
on the sofa, in a state of stupor. This afternoon the American corvette
John Adams sailed away in fine style.
_Friday, 28th._--Another oppressive day: a storm of thunder and rain,
during the night, has had no effect in cooling the air. I walked out on
the Marina in the evening; and having ascertained that they produce ices
in great perfection at Smyrna, I have fully availed myself of the
discovery, and the day was spent in cooling one's interior, as no means
could be found to do the same for the outward man.
_Saturday, 29th._--This morning the Rover, a very pretty and
wicked-looking sloop, came in from the West, and sailed again soon
after. I was occupied this entire day in making blue and white lights to
burn in the grotto of Antiparos. By midnight all the passengers and crew
were in their places on board the steamer; and the ladders were hauled
up, the cook's assistant being the only individual missing. Our object
was, to get a day off the quarantine, by having every one on board
before midnight, and making that day count as one, as we might be said
to have nominally left Smyrna on it. The Spaniards returned to the
vessel, accompanied by a band, and three boat-loads of ladies, who
continued sailing round and round the vessel until a very early hour, so
unwilling were they to say farewell.
[Sidenote: FORTUNATE ESCAPE.] One of the young gallants, in leaning over
the bows of the boat, overbalanced himself, and dropped into the water,
from whence he was quickly rescued by these fair damsels, who thus
became the guardian Naiads of the place; for without their assistance he
most probably would have been drowned.
[Illustration: HOUSES IN SCIO.]
_Sunday, 30th._--At five this morning we bade adieu to Smyrna; and never
did I send aloft a more sincere prayer than when petitioning to see it
no more. By the forenoon, we were off the Island of Scio, the coast of
which presented much beautiful and picturesque scenery. The wind now
gradually increased to a stiff breeze, and the weather became
threatening; so that the first symptoms of turning in made their
appearance among the passengers. The night following was black and
stormy, and we had reason to anticipate an Archipelago gale:
fortunately, however, it cleared up, much to the satisfaction of the
captain and myself; for never did a boat traverse these seas with less
of the seaman in the composition of its crew, from the said captain down
to the slop-boy.
[Sidenote: QUARANTINE.] _Monday, July 1st._--The Island of Tinos was in
sight at daylight this morning; and, passing through the channel between
it and Andros, we approached Syra, the quarantine station of the new
Greek kingdom for all vessels coming from Smyrna or the plague
countries. The situation of Syra is very beautiful; the houses rising
gradually in a succession of terraces, built upon the slope of a steep
mountain, situated at the bottom of an extensive bay, in which we found
the Madagascar lying at anchor.
[Sidenote: KING OF GREECE.] Shortly after our arrival, the officers of
health came alongside, and informed us we were destined to seven days'
quarantine. Of these, the day we left Smyrna counted as one, that passed
at sea as another, and the one on which we got _pratique_ as a third;
so we had, in reality, only four days to remain in _durance vile_. To
console us for the unwelcome detention, the inhabitants brought off
quantities of delicious fruit, honey, and meat to regale our appetites;
while, in the evening, our eyes were gratified with the brilliant
spectacle afforded by the illumination of the Madagascar and the town.
The presence of the King seemed to have transported the good people of
the island beyond themselves: such firing of guns and blazing of
bonfires, such screaming and hallooing, probably never before disturbed
the quiet precincts of Syra. His Majesty gets _pratique_ to-morrow, and
there is to be a dinner and ball ashore. We could plainly discern them
making preparations, and decorating the governor's house, but had no
prospect of partaking of these festivities.
It was very late before I could get asleep, owing to the gambling going
forward on deck until two o'clock in the morning. There was a _rouge et
noir_ table, and a whist party, by both of which very high stakes were
played, much to the annoyance of the better disposed passengers, who
wished for rest and quietness.
[Sidenote: SHIP LAUNCH.] _Tuesday, 2d._--At nine o'clock, after dressing
the ship in her colours, and receiving a salute from the shore, the King
left the Madagascar in the captain's gig. A deputation of the principal
inhabitants awaited his arrival, and the keys of the town, according to
"ancient and approved usage," were delivered to him under a triumphal
arch. The governor then addressed him in a Greek speech, to which his
Majesty replied; but in what language the court newsman has not thought
fit to inform us. After parading through the town, the procession
arrived at the governor's, where the King held a levee. In the
afternoon, he returned to the vessel, on board of which a dinner was
given to the principal inhabitants; and again the poor Greeks illumined
their houses and burnt bonfires.
The English in the steamer set up a singing-party this evening, in
opposition to the hazard-players; and we kept it up until there was a
dissolution of the card table; it being impossible either to gain or
lose money with any satisfaction while the jovial chorus disturbed their
calculations.
[Sidenote: INHABITANTS OF SYRA.] _Wednesday, 3d._--Great preparations
were made for a ship-launch; and again the King went in state to the
governor's residence, and proceeded thence to the dockyard, where he
performed the ceremony of naming a small vessel; which glided
beautifully into the ocean amid salvos of artillery, volleys of
small-arms, and the cheers of the surrounding spectators. The grand
festival and ball took place on shore in the evening; when they kept it
up till past midnight; and the moment the King and his party returned on
board, the Madagascar set sail, and "left us alone in our glory." It
seems rather extraordinary that the Prince of Bavaria had not the
inclination, as he certainly had the power, to put off these _fetes_
until the passengers of the Francesco, with whom he had sailed for two
months, and to whom he was now under some obligation, could have
participated in them. There was no reason for hurry; there existed no
necessity for the King's immediate return to Nauplia; in short, no
excuse can be found to palliate such paltry, ungenerous, unfeeling
conduct: certainly unfeeling, when it is considered that his
fellow-travellers were witnesses of these festivities, without the
possibility of joining in them.
_Friday, 5th._--By the first boat which came alongside to-day, many of
the more restless part of our crew hurried ashore. I remained on board
till the evening; and amused myself, during the interval, in watching
the numerous boats, crowded with the inhabitants, which came off to
visit the steamer. I did not notice a single Greek woman who maintained
the reputation of her countrywomen for any thing but ugliness; and none
of the men were of that fine race of beings whom I expected to see.
There was nothing national in their costume; the women being mostly
dressed in imitation of the Parisian mode; and, apparently, many of the
men took their cut from Bond Street. Over a cabinet in the
billiard-room, I afterwards observed several plates from the "Courrier
des Dames;" and as Syra is destined to be the principal port of the
Greek islands, I presume its inhabitants wish also to show themselves
leaders in the march of improvement. Of course, the ladies will prefer
stiff stays, gigot sleeves, and spacious bustle, to the loose jacket,
short petticoat, and coloured stockings of their grandmothers.
[Sidenote: GRAND FESTA.] There is to be a grand _festa_ this evening,
to-day being the eve of the [Greek: genethlion tou prodromou], or birth
of St. John the Baptist. There was an incessant firing of muskets and
petards; which proved that the gunpowder had not been all expended upon
King Otho. Towards night, every one lighted a large bonfire before his
house, and the favourite amusement seemed to be, who would run the
oftenest through it when the blaze was at the fiercest. Shouts of
laughter burst from the crowd, as each unlucky wight issued, scorched
and singed, from the fiery trial; while the applause was proportionate
towards those who ventured bravely, and escaped uninjured.
Many of us joined in the sport, leaping through the mass of newly
kindled flame, and, among others, I had the satisfaction of presenting
myself on the other side, _minus_ a good portion of whiskers, and with
eyelashes singed into little tufts, close to the lid.
[Sidenote: SYRA.] Syra, like many of the Greek towns, is best seen at a
distance; for it is, in reality, but an insignificant place, and there
is not a respectable street in it. The houses, too, are low and dirty;
and a disagreeable smell of dried fish and bad olives salutes one in
every quarter. However, the inhabitants appear to be wealthy and
enterprising; and at some future period it may become a large, populous,
flourishing city.
_Saturday, 6th._--We started at midnight, and in the morning were off
St. Nicolo, in the island of Tinos. The town is very pretty; and the
house of the bishop, near the church, is a very favourable specimen of
Greek domestic architecture.
[Sidenote: LADIES OF MYCONE.] After remaining here a short time, we
proceeded on our course to Mycone. Several boat-loads of the natives put
off to see the vessel; and on being received on board, they expressed
the greatest surprise and admiration at the size and beauty of the
steamer's cabin and deck. On our part, we were no less gratified with
the graceful, varied costume, worn by our island visitors; one of whom,
a female, was dressed in a most superb style; and being also exceedingly
pretty, she set off her decorations to great advantage. Dark eyelashes
overshadowed a pair of eyes, blue, soft, and beautiful as the heaven of
her native clime. A shawl of parti-coloured silk was so disposed upon
her head as to cover its upper part, and form a bow on the right side;
while the ends hung over each ear, allowing the rich tresses of her
glossy auburn hair to flow from under them unconfined. A plain loose
jacket of light blue cloth covered a deep-red bodice laced close to the
form; and a petticoat of the same colour, descending in ample folds to
the knee, was fastened round the waist by a narrow black silk shawl. Her
stockings were black, and the garters vermilion. Another lady of the
party, a dark beauty, also wore a dress of rich and elegant fashion. Her
hair, black as jet, was closely bound round her head, and fastened in a
knot upon the crown, as one sees it arranged on the Greek statues. A
thin gauze veil, ornamented at the two extremities with flowers and gold
embroidery, was thrown carelessly over this elegant _coiffure_,
heightening and adding new graces to a beauty it was intended to
conceal. Her jacket was of green velvet braided with gold, and lined
with white silk. The remainder of her dress consisted of rose-coloured
silk; and a magnificent shawl, of that brilliant red and yellow pattern
so common among the Greeks, encircled her waist. I believe she was the
wife of the Neapolitan consul, who also fulfilled the duties of that
office for half a dozen countries besides.
[Sidenote: VULGAR TOURISTS.] Proceeding next to Delos, we anchored
opposite Mount Cynthus, and went on shore immediately, to visit the
ruins of the theatre, and of some vast temple, built upon the ascent of
that hill. Thence we passed to the Thermae, and to the ruins of the great
Temple of Apollo, which cover an immense extent of ground, where
capitals, columns, architraves, friezes, and cornices, lie mingled in
undistinguished confusion; and from their size and number they had more
the appearance of the fragments of some fallen mountain, than the
remains of man's handiwork. While engaged in contemplating these
stupendous ruins, the rest of the party wandered about, and saw many
things which necessarily escaped my observation. But four hours only
were granted us to examine one of the most interesting of the places
marked down in the itinerary; and it was necessary to hurry over the
scene. It really seemed, that the feelings of the generality of our
tourists must be of a very low and vulgar description, thus to visit any
spot consecrated by history or fable, as it were for an instant, merely
to gratify the empty vanity of being able to say "Oh! _I_ have been
there;" and then to hurry on towards the next object with the same
heartless indifference. How different is their conduct on arriving at
the busy haunts of men, which promise balls, dinners, or festas! Then,
hours and days are not sufficient for the gratification of their
favourite enjoyments, and every stratagem is put in practice to create
delay.
Hardly one third of the passengers landed at Delos, yet five days were
absolutely lost in Smyrna. The same parties who grumbled, and grudged
four short hours at this isle, would have detained us as many days over
the number specified in the city of figs, had they been permitted. Nor
was the cool morning, or evening, freshened by the never-failing breeze,
selected for going ashore; but the very hottest time of day, when on
this treeless, barren, granite island, the reflection of light and heat
is almost insupportable: when Apollo darts his fiercest rays on those
who wander to seek his fane, and Diana was unable to offer them any
cool, shady retreat which, at such an hour, she would herself have loved
so well. Yonder, under the soot-imbued awning of the Francesco, sits
many a listless cold-hearted being gazing without emotion,--
----"on the sacred place,
Where once stood shrines and gods;"
and with no enviable feelings putting the question to him, who, with his
imagination rapt on the thoughts of other days, hastens to the classic
shore:--"_What is the use of running out in the sun; cannot you see
those piles of stones from the deck?_"--Senseless, unfeeling, sordid,
and degraded! what can have induced you to approach this consecrated
land?
[Sidenote: A MODERN ANTIQUE.]There was one of our party who thought he
had made a grand discovery and capture. With great labour and exertion,
we carried for him to the water's edge a large block of marble,
resembling a portion of a basin or font. He at once decided, that it had
been some receptacle for water belonging to the temple, and resolved on
carrying it to Palermo. Unfortunately, however, it was shortly
afterwards recognised to be nothing more than a Turkish mortar for
pounding the sulphur, nitre, and charcoal used in the manufacture of
gunpowder; and on examination, there was no doubt of its being perfectly
modern. "Never mind," said its proprietor; "it shall go to my palace;
and there being no reason to explain what it really is only _whence_ it
came, the Sicilians will admire and venerate it as a relic from Delos!"
[Sidenote: BEAUTIFUL ANCHORAGE.] _Sunday, 7th._--In the middle of the
night we started for Naxos, bidding adieu to Delos over a cup "mantling
with rosy wine," and with the song of sociality; thus worshipping the
glorious gods of the table, as, leaving the temple of the one, we
approached the spot hallowed by the worship of the other. Where, indeed,
should the chorus sound more joyously than in the waters of Delos, or
the sparkling wine flow faster than in the sight of Naxos?
It was a beautiful night; the moon shone with resplendent lustre, and
the sea, calm and unruffled as a mountain lake, reflected all its beams,
until each rippling wave became like molten silver.
Crossing from Naxos to Paros, and coasting along the latter mountainous
isle, we stopped opposite the town of the same name, to discover the
most convenient anchorage, for visiting the celebrated grotto. While
waiting for the necessary information, several of the passengers went in
search of the quarries which supplied the ancients with marble; but as,
without interpreters, they could not make themselves understood, they
returned unsuccessful. We, however, were fortunate in meeting with a
rich proprietor, who lived opposite the grotto and village of Antiparos,
and who promised to have men and torches ready for us by daylight. We
then started again, and at length dropt anchor in a beautiful strait
between the two islands. The greatest caution is requisite in getting to
this position; the passage being extremely narrow, and the water
shallow: the latter was so beautifully transparent, that each pebble on
the yellow sand appeared distinctly visible, and myriads of sportive
fish were seen darting in every direction from the clamorous hissing
monster that invaded their quiet abode.
[Illustration: [Drawn &] Etched by G[eorge]. C[ruikshank], from a Sketch
by the Author.
Grotto Antiparos.
Published by Longman & Co. April, 1835.]
[Sidenote: VISIT TO ANTIPAROS.] _Monday, 8th._--The expedition to
Antiparos seemed to suit the general taste, and all were ready by the
appointed hour. At four o'clock we embarked in two large country boats,
and proceeding through the strait, we landed in a little bay, and found
an assemblage of donkeys and guides awaiting our arrival. The distance,
as we were informed, was two hours, and all being mounted, away we
started on this grotto chase at a double quick step; so that in a short
time many began to show symptoms of fatigue. For the first half hour the
country appeared almost destitute of trees, but arriving at length
[Sidenote: MARINE PROSPECT.] on the brow of a hill, after a long and
gradual ascent, a richly cultivated and finely wooded hollow, surrounded
by mountains, opened upon our view. As the abrupt faces of these
eminences form an insurmountable barrier on three sides of the basin
just alluded to, we fancied that the grotto must be there. But no! we
had to descend, cross it, and mount again towards the south, by a steep
path that wound up the least precipitous side of this punchbowl.
Hitherto the rock had been primitive limestone lying on gneiss, but we
now came upon a thick stratum of pure limestone.
[Illustration: Drawn & Etched by George. Cruikshank, from a Sketch by
the Author.
Interior of the Grotto of Antiparas.
Published by Longman & Co. April, 1835.]
[Sidenote: ENTRANCE TO THE CAVERN.] Passing over the brow of a tolerably
high mountain, we found that it declined towards the south into the
plain; and thence to the sea by a gentle slope. The ground was covered
with myrtle and arbutus, and presented a wild but beautiful aspect. We
had now nearly reached the further end of the island, where a narrow
promontory extends far into the calm blue waters. Far off in the
distance appeared the islands of Sikyno and Raclia, floating like huge
birds upon the bosom of the waves. Close under the western shore, where
the island of Paros terminates in bold perpendicular cliffs, lay the
little island of Spotico; while all around, the sea bristled with rocks
as far as the eye could reach. On one side of a steep path, which we
were now slowly ascending, the guides pointed out a huge fissure or
break in the rock, which they said was the platform in front of the
grotto. At the further end of this cavern, behind a vast stalactite,
reaching from the roof to the ground, and suggesting to the imagination
the idea of some gigantic sentinel before the pit of Acheron, yawned a
low narrow opening, the interior of which presented to the view a more
than Egyptian darkness. Around this spot were assembled a band of
kirtled Greeks, provided with ropes, ladders, and flambeaux. Our
appearance was the signal for a general uproar: each commenced talking,
screaming, and fighting for possession of the ladies, and every now and
then edging in a word of French or English, by way of additional
recommendation. Much time was lost in squabbling for the torches, the
number of which proved to be less than that of the adventurers; and it
was only fair that "first come should be first served." Those who had
loitered behind complained bitterly of the deficiency in this respect;
especially the chevalier d'industrie from Milan, who, being less expert
with his feet than with his hands, had been one of the last to arrive.
Of his adroitness with the latter, he quickly gave us a specimen; for,
while one of my friends was peering into the entrance of this
Acherontic cave, he very cunningly appropriated his torch; and it was
not until the matter became serious, that he could be induced to restore
it.