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| Transcriber's note: |
| |
| Turkish names seem to be spelled generally in French, |
| which was the Lingua Franca of the period. These have |
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| some of these names are given at the end of the book. |
+---------------------------------------------------------+
JOURNAL OF A VISIT TO CONSTANTINOPLE, &c. &c.
"You have nothing to do, but transcribe your little red books, if they
are not rubbed out; for I conclude you have not trusted every thing to
memory, which is ten times worse than a lead pencil. Half a word fixed
on or near the spot, is worth a cart load of recollection."
GRAY's _Letters_.
London:
Printed by A. Spottiswoode,
New-Street-Square.
JOURNAL OF A VISIT TO CONSTANTINOPLE,
AND SOME OF THE GREEK ISLANDS,
IN THE SPRING AND SUMMER OF 1833.
by
JOHN AULDJO, ESQ. F.G.S.
Author of "The Ascent of Mont Blanc,"
"Sketches of Vesuvius," Etc.
[Illustration: VIEW IN THE GULF OF CORON. [p. 235.]]
London:
Longman, Rees, Orme, Brown, Green, & Longman,
Paternoster-Row.
1835.
TO
SIR WILLIAM GELL.
DEAR SIR,
On quitting Naples, for those scenes which your pen and pencil have so
faithfully illustrated, I promised to fill my note book. I now offer you
its contents, as a small and unworthy token of my gratitude for the long
continued kindness you have shown.
Your faithful and obedient servant,
THE AUTHOR.
_Naples, April, 1835._
PREFACE.
The publication of the pages of a journal in the crude and undigested
form in which they were originally composed appears so disrespectful to
the public, that it requires some explanation. They were written,
"currente calamo," among the scenes they describe; more as a record of
individual adventure, and to fix the transient impressions of the moment
for the after gratification of the author, than with any hope of
affording amusement during an idle hour, even to those who might feel an
interest in all he saw and noted.
The intense curiosity, however, which exists at present to learn even
the minutest particulars connected with Greece and Turkey, and the
possibility that some of his hurried notices might not be altogether
devoid of interest, have induced the author to submit them to the public
attention. In so doing, he has preferred giving them in their original
state, with all their defects, to moulding them into a connected
narrative; his object being not to "make a book," but to offer his
desultory remarks as they arose; to present the faint outline he
sketched upon the spot, rather than attempt to work them into finished
pictures.
With some hope, therefore, of receiving indulgence from the critics,
whose asperity is rarely excited except by the overweening pretensions
of confident ignorance and self-sufficiency, he ventures on the ground
already trodden by so many distinguished men, whose works, deep in
research, beautiful in description, and valuable from their scrupulous
fidelity, have left little to glean, and rendered it a rather hazardous
task for an humble and unskilful limner to follow in their wake.
While thus disclaiming all pretensions to the possession of their
enviable talents, still, if the author should succeed in affording his
readers a few hours' pleasure from the perusal of his Journal, or enable
any one to re-picture scenes he may himself have visited, the principal
object of its publication will have been attained.
_Naples, April, 1835._
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Page
Departure of H.M.S. Actaeon with the British Embassy to
Constantinople 1
Island of Capri. Moonlight Scene 3
My first Night at Sea 4
Sunday on Board 5
Schoolmaster of the Actaeon. Muster of the Crew 6
Stromboli. Somma. Vesuvius 7
Scylla and Charybdis. Homer 8
The Faro. Messina. Preparations to land 9
Sea-sickness. A Host of Grievances 10
Man overboard. Life 11
Cerigo. Taygetus 12
Piping up the Watch. Pursers Bantam 13
Nauplia de Malvoisie 14
Classic Reminiscences. Argos 15
Sharks. Greek Costume 16
Character of King Otho 17
Hydra. Egina. Poros. Russian Fleet 19
Beautiful Landscape. Gulf of Salamis 20
Athens. The Piraeus. Olive Grove 21
English Residents at Athens 22
Visit to the Acropolis. Death of the Chieftain Ulysses 23
Insolence of the Turks 24
Grave of Tweddel. Byron's Grave 25
Armenian Missionaries. Temple of Theseus 26
Metropolis of modern Greece 27
Modern Improvements. Sir P. Malcolm 28
Value of Land. Speculators Plain of Troy. Fidelity of
Sir W. Gell's Map 30
Sources of the Scamander. The Golden Xanthus 31
Tombs of Hector and Paris. Bounarbashi 32
The Simois. Rural Excursion. Segean Promontory.
Tombs of Achilles and Patroclus 33
Passage of the Dardanelles. Influenza 34
Present to the Ambassador. French Fleet 35
Feast of the Bairam. Oriental Splendour 36
Sestos. Turkish Colonel. Castles of the Dardanelles 37
Beautiful Scene. Turkish Salute 38
First View of Constantinople. The Seven Towers 39
The Pasha's Gate. The Slaves' Gate 40
Sultanas. Golden Horn. Beauties of Stamboul 41
Pera. Scutari. Approach of the Actaeon to her Anchorage 42
Turkish Fleet. Size and Condition of the Ships 43
Castle of the Janissaries. Royal Kiosk. Turkish Houses 44
Unwelcome Visitation. Giants' Mountain. Russian Camp.
Saluting the Russian Fleet 45
Jealousy and Remonstrance of the Russian Admiral.
French and English Embassies 46
Russian Military Music. Plague. Orange and Jasmine
Bowers 47
The Caique. Turkish Boatmen 48
Paras. Splendid Fountain. Tophana 49
Pera. Destructive Fire. Guiseppino Vitali 50
Mr. Cartwright, British Consul. A Sail upon the
Bosphorus 51
Funeral of a Russian Soldier 52
Landing of the British Ambassador 53
Greek and Armenian Women. Visit to the Bazaars 54
Public Promenades. Oriental Perfumes 56
Pipe-stick Bazaar. Amber Mouth-pieces 57
Value of the Turkish Pipe 58
Salonica Tobacco. The Nargile 59
Coffee Houses. Shoe Bazaar 60
Jewellery. Broussa Silks 61
Close of the Bazaars. Funeral of the Sultan's
Physician 62
Lord Ponsonby's Audience 63
His Reception. Count Orloff 64
Admiral Roussin. Naval Punishments 65
Cricket. Turkish Fleet 66
Cabobs. Rapacity of the Sultan. "Valley of the
Sweet Waters" 67
Naval Arsenal. Cemeteries 68
Palace. Turkish Horses 69
Interesting Scene. Beautiful Greek 70
The Erraba. Turkish Ladies 71
Dancing Dervishes 73
Greek Bookseller 76
Mosque of Solimanie 77
Seraskier's Tower. Conflagrations 78
View of Constantinople. Hermitage on Vesuvius.
Burnt Pillar 79
Hippodrome 80
The Author in danger of arrest. Anecdote. St. Sophia 81
Visit to the Seraglio. Effects of a Golden Key 82
Coffee Shop in a Plane-tree. Funeral Pomp 83
Costume. Mustapha the Scent Dealer. Beed Caimac.
Mahalabe 84
Turkish Printing Office. Anecdote of a Sultana 85
Ibrahim Pasha. Affront offered to the Captain of
the Actaeon 87
Insolence of the Russians. Military Punishments 88
Sultan's Valley. Buyukdere. Aqueduct 89
Cossack Horses. Russians hated by the Turks 90
Horn Bands. Beautiful Airs 91
Fondness of the Turks for Champagne. A Venetian Story 92
College of Pages. Christian Burying-ground 93
Sultan's Visit to the Mosque 94
Politeness of a Turkish Officer. The successful Shot 95
Namik Pasha. Count Orloff and the Sultan 96
The Procession. Turkish Horses. Appearance and
Dress of the Grand Signior 97
His Bacchanalian Propensities. Laughable Anecdote 98
New Regulation Soldier 99
Palace of the British Embassy 100
Scene in the Arm Bazaar 101
George Robins. Curious Weapons. Damascus Blades.
Turkish Merchants 102
Swords of Khorassan. Their Temper 103
Jew Brokers. Actaeon 104
Humours of a Turkish Auction 105
Slave Market 106
A Georgian Beauty. Scarcity of white Slaves 108
Price of a Female Slave. Turkish Confectionary 109
Armenian Visiteos. Residence of an Armenian Gentleman 110
Oriental Costume 111
Turks. Armenians. Greeks 112
Jew Interpreters. Flattering Compliment to the English
Character 113
Oriental Politeness. Portraits 114
Decrease of Fanaticism. Persian Silk. St. John's Egypt 115
Cashmere Shawls. Angora Shalee. Ladies' Dresses 116
Hummums 117
Eastern Story-teller 121
Matthews at Constantinople. Turkish Politeness.
Description of an "At Home" in Stamboul 122
Naval Banquet 128
Seven Towers 131
Tomb of Ali Pasha 134
Russian Insolence 136
Visit to Ibrahim Pasha 137
Violent Conduct of the Russians to an English
Gentleman 138
Laughable Anecdote of a Turk 139
Beautiful Scene. Contrasted Manners of the Turks
and Greeks 141
The Muezzin 144
Madame Mauvromati. The Plague 146
Massacre of the Greeks 147
Anecdote of the Sultan 148
Neapolitan Steam-boat. English Travellers 151
Jewish Musician. Merry Greeks 152
Greek Lady. Elegant Costume 153
Affability of the Turkish Females 156
The Pilot of the Actaeon and the Seraskier 157
Foreign Visitors 159
Oriental Beauty 160
The Ottoman Empire. Lord Grey 162
Morning Prayer. The Muezzin 163
Sunrise. Power of Religion on the Heart 164
Russian Camp. Lady Ponsonby 165
Russian Insolence to an English Party 166
Namik Pasha. Tahir Pasha 167
Excursion on the Black Sea. Beauties of the Seraglio 168
The Symplegades 169
Colour of the Black Sea. Experiment the Test of Truth 170
Character of the Russians by a Turkish Innkeeper 171
Grand Review. Splendid Staff 172
Giant's Mountain 174
Extensive Prospects. Mt. Olympus 175
Prince Butera and the Sultan 177
Detention of the Steamer. Illiberal Conduct of the
Prince 178
Royal Country Seat 180
Insecurity of Property. The Bowstring 181
Author's Preparations to Depart. H. M. Ship Actaeon.
Lord Ponsonby 182
Visit to the Mosques. St. Sophia 183
Fate of Constantinople. Tribute of Respect to
Lord Ponsonby 189
Armenian Painter. Poetical Description
of Constantinople 190
My fellow-Passengers 192
Marble Quarries. Isle of Marmora 193
Greek Deputation. Anecdote 194
Pleasant Dormitory. Extraordinary Transformation 196
British Fleet. Gulf of Smyrna 199
French Squadron. King of Greece 200
Smyrna. Excessive Heat 201
Departure for Syra 202
Accident. Island of Scio 203
Island of Tinos. Quarantine 204
Landing of the King. Ship Launch 206
Festival of St. John the Baptist 208
Syra. Bishop's Palace 209
Ladies of Mycone. Costume 210
Delos. Vulgar Tourists 211
Modern Antique 213
Naxos. Paros. Beautiful Anchorage 214
Visit to Antiparos 215
Marine Prospects. Spotico 216
Entrance to the Cavern 217
Perilous Descent 218
Melodramatic Scene 219
Description by a Naval Officer. Magnificent Passage 224
Excessive Terror. Disappearance of the Guides 226
Splendid Transition 227
Dimensions of the Grotto 228
Terrified Frenchman. Our Return 229
A Hint to the Ladies. Ludicrous Scene 231
Port of Milo 232
Warlike Mountaineers 233
Anecdote 234
Parting of the Royal Brothers 235
Cerigo. Gulf of Coron. Zante 236
Distant View of Etna. Valetta 238
Lazzaretto. Days of Quarrantine 240
The Parlatorio 241
Persian Carpets. The Mantilla. Maltese Women 242
Medical Examination. Steamer from Corfu 243
Valetta. Maltese Gazette 244
Garrison of Malta. Strange Conduct of the Prince 245
Lady Briggs's Ball. Alicata 246
Miserable State of Sicily. Girgenti 247
Temple of Hercules. Concord 248
Reflections. Coliseum. The Parthenon 249
Temple of Giants. Galley Slaves. Custom-house 250
Marsala. Mazzara. Vintage 251
Palermo. Orange and Lemon Groves 252
Duchess de Berri 253
Scene on Board 254
Capri. Conclusion 256
_Addenda._
List of the Turkish Fleet in the Bosphorus, and of
Mohammed Ali's Navy 257
State of the Thermometer at Constantinople 258
Note to page 24 259
JOURNAL OF A VISIT TO CONSTANTINOPLE, ETC.
[Sidenote: DEPARTURE OF THE ACTAEON.] _Saturday, 6th April, 1833._--Well!
All seems at length arranged, and the oft postponed departure of H. M.
S. Actaeon for Constantinople, will probably take place this evening. But
is there no chance of a further detention? Yes; and many a palpitating
heart watches anxiously the state of the heavens.
The morning had been dark and stormy, and heavy vapours rolled along
from the north: about noon, however, the weather brightened; yet an
occasional cloud, passing over and discharging its liquid contents on
the lovely Naples, afforded some expectation that the evening might
prove unfavourable. If there were heaving bosoms on shore, there were
responding hearts on board; where there were few, indeed, who did not
feel some pang at bidding the syren city farewell.
The St. Lucia was thronged with numerous groups of pedestrians, and a
long line of carriages, with "weeping beauty filled,"--all manifesting a
deep interest in the scene. Sailors have generous hearts, which, like
wax, are soon warmed, and easily impressed; but as easily the image may
be effaced. Thus ladies assert, that blue jackets
"In every port a true love find."
Reflections akin to these, probably, may have tortured more than one of
the fair spectators; and mamma, perhaps, considered it extremely
mortifying that an opportunity was not given to _land_ the prize, as
well as _hook_ it; and that sailors, like jacks, were exceedingly
difficult to catch.
Boats pass rapidly to and from the ship;--the yards are manned; the
ambassador's flag flies at the main; and as the smoke from the salute
cleared away, the shore, with its precious and weeping burthen, was seen
fast receding from the sight. The Actaeon had actually sailed; and the
white handkerchiefs, with the ivory arms that waved them, gradually
became lost to the view, till distance mingled the entire scene into one
grey mass, and
"All was mist, and Naples seen no more."
Such were the transactions that marked the 6th of April, 1833, when I
became one of the ship's company, and received an honourable place in
her log.
[Sidenote: ISLAND OF CAPRI.] We were compelled to pass close under
Capri[1], and its bold perpendicular cliffs towered magnificently above
us, casting a deep shadow over the vessel as she sailed along. There was
little wind outside the isle, and we were nearly becalmed; but this
delay was amply compensated by the extreme beauty of the night. The
brilliant moon, shining with far greater lustre than I ever remember to
have witnessed, during the height of summer, in less favoured climes,
lighted up with its silver beams the whole of that beautiful coast
extending along the bay of Salerno, from Amalfi to Palinuro. Long did I
remain upon deck, gazing on
"Heaven's ebon vault,
Studded with stars unutterably bright;
Through which the moon's unclouded grandeur rolls."
[Sidenote: MY FIRST NIGHT AT SEA.] But at length, overcome by weariness,
I hastened to my cot.--My cot! how shall I describe thee? thou oblong,
narrow, swinging thing! rest still a while, nor fly me thus each time I
essay to get within thy narrow precincts. Oh! for a chair, a stool, a
rope; or have they purposely swung thee so high? hadst thou been o'er a
gun, indeed, one might have scaled thee by the breech. So! In at last;
yet, with that eternal sentinel walking his rounds within a few paces of
my ear, how is it possible to sleep? Exhausted, however, by the novelty
and excitement of the past day, at length wearied nature asserted her
rights; and I had just begun to sink into a refreshing slumber, when
"Quarter," rang in my ears: again I start; ducks cackle, geese scream,
pigs grunt, cocks crow, men bawl; all the horrors of the incantation
scene in Der Freyschuetz would seem to accompany that same striking of
the bells.
"A ship is a thing you never can sleep quiet in,"
says an old song; and most feelingly did I subscribe to the veracious
assertion: at length, towards morning, by dint, I think, of conning over
that very line, I once more fell asleep.
But my slumbers were of short duration, for with daylight came the
order, "Wash decks." Then began slushing and swabbing, and bumping my
cot. All the live stock, too, were again in motion, and in fact, I soon
perceived it would be better at once to turn out. This was neither easy
nor agreeable, the deck being drenched with wet. However, I made up for
my night's restlessness by a hearty breakfast, and appeared on the
quarter-deck with a face exhibiting no symptoms of squeamishness. We are
making for Stromboli, which was visible in the horizon.
[Sidenote: SUNDAY ON BOARD.] _Sunday, 7th._--This morning, after the
crew had appeared at quarters,--that is, every man to his station,--the
bell rang for divine service, and all the chairs and benches above and
below, were put in requisition. The captain then read prayers on the
main deck, in a manner at once solemn and impressive. It may here be
remarked, that, when the ship carries out an ambassador, the youngsters
are exempt from school duties, and their holidays on the present
occasion are likely to be of considerable duration. The schoolmaster of
the Actaeon is a Scotchman, and his office cannot be an enviable one, if
half the tricks in store for him be ever put in practice; while the fact
of his hammock being swung close alongside those of his pupils, by no
means diminishes the facility of their execution. To-day being Sunday,
we dined at three o'clock; and our band, consisting of a drummer and
amateur fifer, played us to table with the well-known enlivening air of
"The roast beef of old England."
[Sidenote: MUSTER OF THE CREW.] In the evening we had a general muster,
and I am confident very few ships ever possessed a finer company than
the Actaeon. Really it was a gallant sight to witness this assemblage of
stout, able, daring fellows, equipped with their cutlasses and boarding
pikes. Looking at them, one no longer felt surprised at the vast naval
superiority which Great Britain has ever maintained in her contests with
foreign nations. The boatswain's mates, and the quartermasters, are
really handsome men, weatherbeaten and bold. Williams, one of the
latter, seems a most eccentric character. He is married, and constantly
receives letters from his absent rib: these, however, he never takes the
trouble to open, but keeps them all neatly tied up. On his return, he
says, she can read them to him, all of a lump!
[Sidenote: STROMBOLI.] We are now close to Stromboli, which appears to
be the remaining half of a large conical crater; the semicircle which is
lost, having fallen away into the sea. There is a small cone in the very
centre, from which the explosions take place. They were but slight on
the present occasion; and two small apertures emitted a continual cloud
of white vapour. The upper part of the old crater consists of layers of
rock rising regularly one above the other; and the whole surface much
resembles that of Somma.[2] The atmosphere was so clear that the island
appeared quite close to us, and I could scarcely credit the master when
he asserted it was full fifteen miles distant.
My cot being moved forward, I am infinitely more comfortable, having now
only the geese to disturb me. The vessel continued beating to windward
till mid-day, when she approached the Faro; and the breeze
strengthening, we had every prospect of clearing it.
[Sidenote: SCYLLA AND CHARYBDIS.] Scylla now appeared in view,--the
bold, rocky, and much dreaded Scylla,--
"Where sing the syren maids,
Uttering such dulcet and harmonious sounds,
That raptured mortals cannot hear, and live."
LYCOPHRON. _Cassandra._
It exhibits itself in the form of a grey perpendicular cliff; and as we
sailed by, the town appeared behind it, built on the face of a steep
slope, of the same colour as the surrounding mass. This is a dangerous
lee shore for a speranaro, but not much to be dreaded by a skilful
seaman. However, we were not gratified with the sight of any of those
monsters with which the imaginations of classic poets have peopled this
celebrated spot; we heard no barkings, nor did the waves even roar as
they lashed its famous rocks. Out of one scrape, into another!--
"Close by, a rock of less tremendous height
Breaks the wild waves, and forms a dangerous strait:
Full on its crown a fig's green branches rise,
And shoot a leafy forest to the skies;
Beneath, Charybdis holds her boisterous reign,
Midst roaring whirlpools, and absorbs the main.
Thrice in her gulphs the boiling seas subside;
Thrice in dire thunders she refunds the tide.
Oh! if thy vessel plough the direful waves,
When seas, retreating, roar within her caves,
Ye perish all! though he who rules the main
Lend his strong aid, his aid he lends in vain."
_Odyssey_, B. 12.
[Sidenote: PREPARATIONS TO LAND.] We were now close upon Charybdis,
where the water is shallow, and the low sands exceedingly dangerous, as
at times it is difficult to discern them. A most wretched village, and a
miserable lighthouse, represent this terror of the ancient Greek
mariners. A few Indian figs and stunted olive trees are almost the only
symptoms of vegetation discernible; and two fat priests, who were
basking in the sun, upon the sand, seemed the only inhabitants.
The coast on either side the Faro is very beautiful; and the land,
judging from the number of houses, villages, and appearance of general
cultivation, must be fertile. The wind having changed, we approached
Messina rapidly, gallantly nearing it, with all sail set. The heavens
threatened bad weather; and therefore the ambassador, tempted by the
neat and clean appearance of the town, resolved to go ashore. Every
preparation was made accordingly; the chain cable was clear, and the men
at the best bower-anchor; when, it being considered injudicious to lose
so fair a breeze, we again set sail, to the disappointment of most
persons on board; and Messina, with all its gay attractions, was soon
far astern. The wind, though fair, was rising into a gale as we got into
the open sea off Spartivento, and the ship rolled terribly. Dined to-day
with the captain, and found some difficulty in stowing away his good
fare, but got creditably through, until the wine began to circulate at
the dessert, when I was compelled to make a precipitate retreat, and
arrived at the gangway only just in time to save the honour of the
quarter-deck. However, I soon righted again, and at night took my grog
kindly in the _pighole_; which was considered no bad sign for an
incipient tar.
[Sidenote: SEA SICKNESS.] The following morning I was awakened at
daylight by a host of grievances,--a scraping above and a scraping
below, that set all my nerves in commotion. Oh! that some other means
could be devised for cleaning decks, than that of holy stoning them! It
roused me from a pleasant slumber, to the horrid consciousness of the
ship's pitching and rolling to such a degree that I was unable to raise
my head from the pillow. Then the alarm I was in, lest I should be
compelled to get up, and have my cot stowed away before eight o'clock.
Yet it was some consolation to know that we were scudding across the
Adriatic at the tremendous rate of ten, and sometimes eleven, knots an
hour; so that, if we continue to proceed thus rapidly much longer, the
voyage will soon be at an end. I was allowed to swing in my cot all day,
and partook of a good dinner into the bargain, which Master Thew, one of
the ship's boys, with whom I had become a great favourite, brought and
forced me to partake of. Got up in the evening for half an hour, and
showed on deck. What a splendid sight! The ship, with comparatively very
little canvas set, majestically ploughed her course through the mighty
billows, that seemed vainly endeavouring to arrest her career; though,
from the way in which she rolled, she must occasionally have been so
unpolite as to display her naked keel to the heavens.
[Sidenote: MAN OVERBOARD.] The mountains around Navarino are in sight:
'tis the land of Arcadia. The gale still continues, the wind whistles
shrilly through the rigging, and the sea roars and tosses us about.
Perceiving a great stir on deck, I sang out to inquire the cause: "A man
overboard," was the reply. I made instant preparations to hasten up, in
the hope of seeing him rescued. The cutter and gig were down, and the
life-buoy out, in an instant, but, poor fellow! he could not swim; and,
though he rose near the buoy, he had not strength to seize it; and after
struggling for a few moments, now deep in a trough of the sea, now
mounted aloft on the summit of the waves, he sank to rise no more. The
swell was so tremendous, that the boats with difficulty reached the
buoy; and some fears were entertained lest they should be unable to live
in such a sea. After considerable suspense, they returned in safety to
the ship, and we proceeded in our rapid course, as if nothing
extraordinary had happened. The life-buoy is a most admirable invention.
It hangs astern the tafrail, and is dropped by pulling a trigger, which
is always done by the person next at hand on the occurrence of an
accident. If it should happen at night, a similar contrivance fires a
train, which lights a lamp in the buoy; and the poor drowning man
discerns, in an instant, the means of preserving his life. The gale
increasing from the N.W., the storm sails were set; but, by noon, we
neared the coast, and ran into the bay of Servia, where we found shelter
and calm water. The coast is extremely bold, but very barren.
[Sidenote: THE LIFE-BUOY.--CERIGO.] _Thursday, 11th._--At eight o'clock
A.M. we were sailing, with a gentle breeze, between the island of Cerigo
and the mainland. The snow-capped mountain of Taygetus rose behind the
lofty coast in the extreme distance. Cerigo is also very barren: I could
perceive very little appearance of cultivation. There are two villages
in the upper part of the island; and there is another, considerably
larger, on the south side. Two companies of British soldiers, with a
resident, are stationed here, and a state of perfect banishment it must
prove, the only amusement being field sports, and the island is by no
means well stocked with game. Cerigo was famous, in antiquity, for the
worship of Venus; and the goddess of beauty rose from the sea somewhere
near the spot where we now are. After getting out of the strait, and
weathering Cape St. Angelo, the sea again became rough, and we beat
about the point all day, much to my regret, for the quiet experienced in
the bay of Servia was quite delightful, after the tossing boisterous
weather we had in the Adriatic. A Greek steamer passed us in the course
of the day, but did not come within hail.
[Sidenote: PIPING UP THE WATCH.] Among the various grievances which
nightly disturb my rest, the piping up of the different watches must not
be omitted. A long shrill whistle first rouses me, followed by the
hoarse cry of "All the starboard watch." Another similar prelude, is the
forerunner of "Hands to shorten sail," or, "Watch make sail:" and as if
each of these was not in itself sufficient to "murder sleep," the
purser's bantam cock invariably responds with a long loud crow. From
the first, I have vowed the death of that hero; but he is so great a
favourite among the crew, that I can tempt no one to be his executioner.
However, the captain's steward has been argued into the propriety of
killing the old gander, which is a great victory. With it I am fain to
be content for the present; and the "Purser's Tom" must still crow on in
a solo, though the other has ceased to sing second.
[Sidenote: NAUPLIA DI MALVOISIE.] This is a most lovely morning; a light
breeze wafts us up the gulf of Napoli, while far on the eastern horizon,
rise the islands of Spezzia and Hydra; and further to the south, that of
Kaimena. We are now off the singular looking town of Nauplia di
Malvoisie, built on a square island, having two platforms, each
resembling a gigantic stair. The lower town is walled on three sides
only, as the perpendicular face of the cliff renders any defence
unnecessary on that side; and on the summit of the precipice stands the
upper town and castle. The rock is of a red colour, and the whole has a
very picturesque appearance. A narrow isthmus and a lofty bridge connect
the island with the adjacent continent. The mountains are barren; but
the valleys appeared green and beautiful.
[Sidenote: CLASSIC REMINISCENCES.] Early the following morning, we
anchored off Nauplia di Romania, and were saluted by H. M. S. Barham, a
French store-ship, and two Russian brigs. From the delay occasioned by
the minister's coming on board, and by visits from the authorities and
captains of the men of war, it was late ere we got on shore. I had
therefore time to gaze on the beautiful panorama around, embracing the
land of Argos, once so celebrated, and still associated with the
school-boy's earliest recollections. In the distance, on a pointed
hill, stands its ruined city. Before me, on the plain, I beheld all that
remained of Tirynth; in the mountains stood Mycenae; and to the north,
Epidauras. How many interesting fictions are connected with these
scenes! Here Hercules was born and passed his youthful days; and here,
too, he performed many of his most illustrious labours; here stood the
brazen tower of the lovely Danae; here Perseus reigned; here the fifty
daughters of Danaus murdered their new-married husbands in a single
night; here Juno was born; and in Argos, too, Agamemnon reigned. On the
left of my position, looking towards the sea, rises a lofty sombre
cliff, whence a chain of sloping rocks extend to the fortress above
Nauplia, the castellated Palamide. Within its dungeons, Grievas and
several other rebels, with the pirates lately taken, are now confined.
At the base of the Palamide, rises a second hill, on which is built the
town, extending down to the water's edge. I am told there are some
remains of ancient fortifications on the side next to the citadel, but I
could discover none that boasted of very remote antiquity. Outside the
town, is a public walk beautifully embowered in trees.
[Sidenote: SHARKS.--NAUPLIA.] Several sharks made their appearance round
the Barham, and sometimes approached our vessel. As they sailed rapidly
up and down, their sharp serrated fins rising above the surface of the
calm unruffled waves, reminded me of the circular saw at Portsmouth
dockyard, working its way through some vast beam of timber, verging
neither to right or left, but keeping on its steady course heedless of
all impediments. The rifles were quickly in requisition, and several of
the officers of the Barham repeatedly shot at them, but did not manage
to boat one.
Went on shore, and visited the modern town of Nauplia; where I observed
that many respectable houses have been recently erected, several good
shops opened, and the streets are much cleaner than might be expected.
Its old palace was an insignificant building, but they are adding
considerably to it. The Greeks being forbidden to carry arms, their
costume is less picturesque than formerly; but, on some of the
noble-looking figures I saw, it still appeared handsome and becoming.
None of Graecia's beauteous daughters were visible to-day, all the women
being invariably ugly, and by no means well dressed. To-morrow is a
_festa_, when perhaps I shall have more reason to admire them.
[Sidenote: CHARACTER OF KING OTHO.]_Sunday, 14th._--Walked towards
Argos, and took a sketch of the bay, but observed no pretty faces, and
very few handsome dresses either native or foreign. The Bavarian troops
are mean-looking men, and their light blue uniform is far from imposing.
On my return I saw the king walk in procession to church. The Greeks, no
doubt, dislike his religion, they being much more intolerant towards
Roman Catholics than the Protestants are; yet, as he visits the churches
on all _festas_, they do not openly murmur. His personal appearance
certainly wants dignity, and his Tartar features appear to great
disadvantage when contrasted with those of true Grecian mould, by which
he is surrounded. However, his prepossessing manners and perfect
urbanity, in some measure compensate for these personal defects; and,
upon the whole, the people appear well pleased and contented with their
youthful monarch. It is said the palikari, or soldiers of the late
governments, do not unite themselves with the regular army which is
forming, so readily as was expected, and that recourse must again be had
to Bavarian troops to keep the country in a state of subjection, and
protect the industrious. Our Greek pilot (he was once a pirate), with a
large party of his friends, met us in the town. We enquired how they
liked their king: their reply was, they had no alternative, since the
allies had sent him; but added, that they were ready to treat him as
they had previously done Capo d'Istrias, should he attempt any thing
against their liberties.
The king mixes a good deal with his new subjects; he rides out every day
without guards, and almost unattended; and strolls upon the public
promenade at the hours when the _beau monde_ frequent it. His presence,
however, excites little attention; and, except by his uniform, the star
upon his breast, and the few aides-de-camp who attend him, he would
hardly be recognised by a stranger.
[Sidenote: HYDRA.--EGINA]. _Monday, 15th._--The ambassador having
received despatches from Constantinople, announcing the arrival of
Russian troops, we were unexpectedly compelled to set sail again
immediately, and our vessel passed between the island of Spezzia and the
main land this morning with a fair wind. The town is pretty, the houses
being detached, and displaying an appearance of great neatness.
Spezzia, from its exceedingly commodious harbour, has always engrossed
much of the carrying trade to and from the continent of Greece; and the
inhabitants are, consequently, wealthy. In the afternoon we coasted
along the island of Hydra, which presents nothing but lofty barren
cliffs, until you arrive close to the town that is built round the
crater of an extinct volcano, the centre of which forms the harbour.
Owing to the extreme depth of the water, there is no anchorage, and all
craft are moored to the wharfs. The town very much resembles Amalfi, and
is protected by two forts, one of which mounts twelve, and the other
sixteen, guns. From the proximity of either shore, the entrance to the
harbour is singularly beautiful; and the surrounding country, though
barren, is very bold and picturesque. Passing Poros in the distance, we
now entered the Gulf of Egina, the prospect hourly increasing in
richness and beauty. The Russian fleet lay at anchor in Poros, and we
plainly descried the admiral's flag flying on shore. In the evening we
approached
"Egina's beauteous isle,"
and could distinguish, on the summit of a hill, the ruins of its temple,
of which there are, I believe, twenty-three columns still remaining
up-right. It is impossible for the imagination to conceive any landscape
more lovely than the one now before us. The wooded isle,--the ruined
temple, rising above the dense masses of foliage,--Athens and its
Acropolis, just distinguishable in the distance,--Pentelicus and
Hymettus ranging behind it, and, farther to the right, Cape Colonna. The
sky was clear and beautifully blue, and a light breeze wafted us slowly
over the rippling waves. There was not the slightest swell; all was
calm, tranquil, and serene. Then, when the sun sunk behind Morea's
hills, and shed a flood of gorgeous light over the whole landscape, it
produced a picture, the loveliness of which will for ever remain
impressed upon my memory.
[Sidenote: GULF OF SALAMIS.] _Tuesday, 16th._--The gulf, or bay, of
Salamis, into which we were now sailing, is a deep inlet, surrounded by
an amphitheatre of low semicircular hills. Here the army of Xerxes was
posted; and the highest of these knolls is still pointed out as the spot
where stood the golden throne of the Persian monarch, when he looked
upon that battle which so humbled his pride.
"A king sat on the rocky brow
Which looks o'er sea-born Salamis;
And ships, by thousands, lay below,
And men in nations:--all were his.
He counted them at break of day,
And when the sun set, where were they?"
[Sidenote: ATHENS.] Again weighing anchor, in a quarter of an hour we
entered Porto Leone,--the ancient Piraeus; which, though deep enough to
float a seventy-four, is so very narrow at the entrance, that there is
but sufficient space for a vessel to pass, with a few feet on either
side to spare. We regretted the orders were, to be on board at night,
and that we should sail again at daylight. The ambassador landed under a
salute; but I waved this ceremony, and hastened ashore with a party of
officers and youngsters. We walked towards Athens, along the old road,
and struck into the olive grove, very little of which now remains, it
having been destroyed by both Greek and Turk. At length the Acropolis
burst upon our anxious view; and, as we toiled up the hill of the
Areopagus, the Temple of Theseus presented itself. Passing along the
miserable collection of mud and stones, here dignified with the name of
a wall, we entered this renowned city, once the seat of civilization and
the arts, but which, at present, consists of little more than an
assemblage of wretched hovels, the principal buildings having been
nearly all destroyed. Near the gate, one good house has been rebuilt;
and, a little farther on, a still larger mansion on speculation.
[Sidenote: ENGLISH RESIDENTS AT ATHENS.]This being a holyday, the bazaar
was closed, and after examining the remains of a building of Corinthian
architecture, supposed to have been Adrian's Library, we passed on to
the residence of Mr. Bell, an English gentleman, who has lately bought
property near Athens, where he resides, in a building which has suffered
less than many others. Mr. Finlay, who has lived upwards of ten years
among the Greeks, also possesses large property in and about Athens.
This gentleman undertook to be our cicerone, and we proceeded to the
hotel in search of the Bavarian commandant, from whom it is necessary to
obtain an order for admission, before we could visit the interior of the
Acropolis. On reaching the hotel, which, by the by, is a most excellent
and commodious house, we found the colonel at dinner, and the necessary
permission was immediately granted. The Acropolis had only been
surrendered to the new dynasty on Sunday last; and, had we arrived one
week earlier, we should have seen the crescent still towering over this
"abode of the Gods," instead of the Greek cross, by which it has been
replaced.
[Sidenote: DEATH OF THE CHIEFTAIN ULYSSES.] Passing the ruins of the
Temple of Victory, _involucris Victoria_[3], we soon arrived at the gate
of the fortress, and found the ambassador and Lady Ponsonby, with the
captain of the Actaeon, and other persons, endeavouring to gain
admission, which was resolutely refused by the Bavarian guard. Luckily
my order sufficed for us all; and we hurried up,--a motley group of
officers, sailors, Greeks, donkeys, horses, and idlers,--shouting,
laughing, and dissipating all the charm of the visit and the sanctity of
the spot. I therefore detached myself from the party as soon as
possible; and, in company with Mr. Finlay, endeavoured to pay that
attention to the wonders of the place, which I could not otherwise have
done. From the lofty tower erected by the Venetians, the brave chieftain
Ulysses was thrown down, and dashed to pieces. He was confined there;
and though his keepers assert that he met his death from the breaking of
a rope, by which he attempted to escape, there is little doubt he was
cast from the giddy height by design. The propylaea or vestibule is
nearly destroyed, and buried in ruins; but the columns, still extant,
are exceedingly beautiful: and the stone, which formed the architrave of
the door, is of an enormous size, but it is cracked in the centre. Hence
we proceeded to the Erechtheon, whose southern portico is still
supported by five caryatides, the sixth having been thrown down.
[Sidenote: INSOLENCE OF THE TURKS.] The neighbouring temple, which was
reserved as a harem for the women, whilst Athens was in possession of
the Turks, suddenly fell in, and crushed the whole of its unfortunate
occupants to death. In the centre of the temple of Minerva stands a
mosque, which is at present occupied as a barrack by the Bavarian
troops. Whenever the Osmanlis take possession of a Greek village, they
invariably ride into its Christian church, and endeavour to force their
horses to defile the altar. By way of retaliation, when their mosque was
delivered up last Sunday, certain Englishmen imitated their example. As
may be readily supposed, this incensed the Turks to a great degree; but,
like the conquered Christians, they were compelled to submit.
It were a needless task to expatiate on the beauty of this temple, with
its noble columns, and its magnificent metopes; for the best still
remain, where Lord Elgin could not reach them. The prospect from the
summit of the building, whither I mounted to inspect these interesting
relics, is most splendid; but then,
"Where'er we tread, 'tis haunted, holy ground;
No earth of thine is lost in vulgar mould;
But one vast realm of wonder spreads around,
And all the muse's tales seem truly told;
Till the sense aches with gazing, to behold
The scenes our earliest dreams have dwelt upon."
[Sidenote: GRAVE OF TWEDDEL.] We next visited what is called
Demosthenes's Lantern, situated close to a ruined house, formerly the
Franciscan convent. Mr. Finlay and some others have cleared away the
rubbish and masses of fallen masonry from about the Lantern: they have
also dug a ditch around it, to prevent the devastation committed by
visitors who attempt to break and carry away the ornaments: they have
not yet learnt
"To pass in peace along the magic waste;
To spare its relics:--let no busy hand
Deface the scenes, already how defaced!"
The Temple of Theseus, one of the most perfect existing specimens of
ancient architecture, is an admirable combination of lightness and
solidity. Neither time, war, nor the hand of man, often a more ruthless
destroyer than either, has yet invaded the sanctity of this splendid
relic of Grecian art. The bodies of the unfortunate Tweddel, and of a
person named Watson, are buried within its precincts; and it struck me,
at the moment, that the remains of Byron might here have found an
appropriate resting-place.
[Sidenote: AMERICAN MISSIONARIES.] Having finished the round of
antiquities, we proceeded to Mr. Finlay's house, a very comfortable
mansion; in which he has collected some interesting relics of antiquity,
and among them, many very curious inscriptions. In this neighbourhood is
a large house built by the American missionaries, who have a school of
between 200 and 300 children, and do much good. The pupils follow the
religion of their parents, whether Greek or Turk; the missionary
confining his exertions to instructing them in reading, writing, and
some mechanical art, as well as in their duties to their parents and the
state. We returned to the hotel, and had an excellent dinner; with an
ample supply of good wine and English porter, although there were thirty
individuals present. The charges, too, were moderate; there was, of
course, a little attempt at imposition, _a la Grecque_; but that matter
was quickly arranged. Before we left the town it was quite dark, and on
passing the Temple of Theseus, it was then illuminated by the glare of a
large fire, round which a party of Greeks were dancing: it looked even
more beautiful than by daylight. On reaching the vessel, I retired to
my cot, and endeavoured to recall the splendid objects of the day's
ramble. But a very confused and imperfect representation remained, like
the recollection of a dream, of which some few prominent points had
alone been remembered.
[Sidenote: METROPOLIS OF MODERN GREECE.] It is not improbable that
Athens may be selected as the seat of government: this choice, however,
will arise less from the advantages of position, than from the
associations connected with its former history. Corinth is infinitely
more central; and Nauplia, from the excellence of its harbour, and the
facility of communication with the principal towns and with the isles,
would be a desirable city for that purpose. With this latter, the
government ought to be satisfied; and it is hardly to be conceived that
the king longs for fine palaces, and his ministers for superb hotels, in
the present depressed state of the country. Should they leave Nauplia,
and migrate to Athens, one half of the revenue will be expended in
building, if the plans which have been sketched out for the new town are
adhered to. One of these, proposes the Piraeus as the port, and that the
necessary warehouses, counting-houses, docks, &c. shall be erected
there; and from thence, a fine macadamised road is to lead to the city.
There, palaces, streets, public buildings are to be built, and walks and
gardens laid out. With this arrangement, all the plans, except one,
coincide; but they differ as to the exact site which the city ought to
occupy. [Sidenote: MODERN IMPROVEMENTS.] One suggests that the palace
and the principal buildings shall be outside the present town; and that
a large and broad street should extend from the temple of Theseus to
these modern improvements. I believe this is Gropuis's plan, who has
purchased all the property in the suburbs. Another proposes that the
palace shall be built on the side of the Acropolis towards the sea, near
the Odeum. The author of this scheme owns all the ground thereabouts; so
that private interest, and not patriotism, would seem to be the _primum
mobile_ of their suggestions. In fact, the whole of the land in and
about Athens is now the property of foreigners, who are speculating on
the immense prices to be obtained for ground-rent, &c. The landed
proprietors, and the common people, who are all labourers, are well
contented with the new arrangements; but the military chiefs and their
followers will, for a long time, be a stumbling-block in the way of the
government, even if they do not thwart and render nugatory all its
attempts at improvement.
[Sidenote: VALUE OF LAND.] Sir Pulteney Malcolm has built a magnificent
house, about two miles from the town, at the enormous cost of 3000_l._;
but at one time was on the eve of selling it for half that sum, so
discouraging were appearances on the political horizon of Greece. Now,
however, he is exceedingly glad that he did not; for, his being the only
house at all calculated for the king's residence, should the court
establish itself at Athens, it will probably be advantageously let to
the government. The value of land was extremely depreciated a few
months back, but it has since risen to such a height, that, for the
future, speculators arriving in Greece will be unable to purchase with
any prospect of advantage. The system of farming is that of the
_metayer_; and those who bought property when it was cheap, have
realised a certain profit, but far less than they expected. However,
such as own land within the walls will sell or let it again at a
considerable gain.
_Wednesday, 17th._--We quitted the Piraeus, with great regret, early this
morning, and continued beating about in the Bay of Egina, near Cape
Colonna, the whole day, which was fine, though excessively hot.
A light breeze carried us by Ipsara and Mitylene, and every one on board
was in high spirits at the prospect of seeing the Asiatic coast next
day.