CHAPTER II.

FECUNDITY OF THE CALIFORNIANS.—FIRST INTELLIGENCE OF THE WAR.—WILD

INDIANS ON BOARD SHIP.—THE CHIEF.—FIRST NEWSPAPER PUBLISHED IN

CALIFORNIA.—RAISING THE MATERIALS.—THE RIVAL SUITORS.—FLIGHT OF GEN.

CASTRO.—A CALIFORNIAN ON HORSEBACK.

MONDAY, AUG. 10. The fecundity of the Californians is remarkable, and

must be attributed in no small degree to the effects of the climate. It

is no uncommon sight to find from fourteen to eighteen children at the

same table, with their mother at their head. There is a lady of some

note in Monterey, who is the mother of twenty-two living children. The

youngest is at the breast, and must soon, it is said, relinquish his

place to a new-comer, who will, in all probability, be allowed only the

same brevity of bliss.

There is a lady in the department below who has twenty-eight children,

all living, in fine health, and who may share the “envied kiss” with

others yet to come. What a family—what a wife—what a mother! I have more

respect for the shadow of that woman than for the living presence of the

mincing being who raises a whole village if she has one child, and then

puts it to death with sugar-plums. A woman with one child is like a hen

with one chicken; there is an eternal scratch about nothing.

TUESDAY, AUG. 11. A deserter from Gen. Castro’s camp presented himself

at my office to-day and gave himself up to the American authorities. He

represents the general as in rather a forlorn condition. His troops, it

appears, are daily deserting him. His present force is estimated at less

than six hundred. He is anxious to fly into Mexico, but is unable to

raise a sufficient number of volunteers. The expectation here is, that

he will surrender to Com. Stockton.

The British brig-of-war Spy anchored in the harbor of Monterey this

evening. She is from San Blas, with dispatches for Admiral Seymour. Her

officers are perfectly silent as to news from the United States and

Mexico. She leaves in a few hours for the Collingwood at the Sandwich

Islands. She has, undoubtedly, news of moment, but will not reveal it.

WEDNESDAY, AUG. 12. The U. S. ship Warren, under Commander Hull, arrived

this afternoon in thirty days from Mazatlan, bringing the eventful

intelligence that war had been declared between the United States and

Mexico. The mysterious silence of the officers of the Spy is now

explained. But their secrecy has availed them for only twenty-four

hours.

The war news produced a profound sensation here. The whole population

were instantly thrown into groups in the corridors and at the corners of

the streets. The hum of voices continued late into the night. It was an

extinguisher on the hopes of those who had looked to Mexico for aid, or

who had clung to the expectation that the American government would

repudiate our possession of California, and order the squadron

withdrawn. They now relinquish all idea of a return to their old

political connection, and appear resigned to their fate, which seems

inevitable. These disappointed families compose but a part of the

population; another portion has become thoroughly wearied with

revolutions, and are prepared to countenance almost any government that

promises stability.

THURSDAY, AUG. 13. The Warren sailed this morning for San Pedro, to

convey the war intelligence to Com. Stockton. It will throw a new aspect

upon his operations in California. Expediency gives place to moral

necessity. We have now a double motive for exertion—national honor,

which looks at home, and an enlarged philanthropy, which looks here. It

is of but little moment what the ultimate action of our government may

be in reference to California. It cannot change her destiny. She is

severed forever from Mexico. Should our government attempt to throw her

back on that country, she will not stay thrown back. The rebound will

carry her further off than ever. She is on a wave which will not ebb

till this generation have mouldered in their graves.

FRIDAY, AUG. 14. Sixty of a tribe of wild Indians, who live in the

mountains, about two hundred miles distant, made a descent a few days

since upon a farm within thirty miles of Monterey, and carried off a

hundred horses. Twenty of the tribe, with the chief, remained behind to

secure further booty. Intelligence of this having reached Capt. Mervin,

he dispatched a mounted force, apprehended them in their ambush, and

brought them to Monterey, and delivered them over to our court for

trial.

They were as wild a looking set of fellows as ever entered a civil

tribunal. The chief was over seven feet high, with an enormous blanket

wrapped round him and thrown over the shoulder like a Spanish cloak,

which set forth his towering form to the best advantage. His long black

hair streamed in darkness down to his waist. His features strikingly

resembled those of Gen. Jackson. His forehead was high, his eye full of

fire, and his mouth betrayed great decision. His step was firm; his age

must have been about fifty. He entered the court with a civil but

undaunted air. When asked why he permitted the men of his tribe to steal

horses, he replied that the men who took the horses were not properly

members of his tribe, that they had recently attached themselves to him,

and now, that he had found them horse-thieves, he should cut them. I

could get at no satisfactory evidence that he, or the twenty with him,

had actively assisted those who took off the horses. I delivered them

over to Capt. Mervin, who commanded the military occupation of the town.

The United States troops were formed into a hollow square, and they were

marched into the centre where they expected to be shot, and still not a

muscle shook, and the features of each were as set as if chiselled from

marble. What must have been their unbetrayed surprise, when Capt. Mervin

told them they were acquitted by the tribunal! He then told the chief he

should recognize him as king of the tribe—that he must not permit any of

his men to commit the slightest depredations on the citizens, that he

should hold him responsible for the conduct of his tribe, and that he

must come and report himself and the condition of his tribe every two

moons. To all this the chief fully assented.

They were then taken on board the frigate, where the crew had been

mustered for the occasion. Here they were told how many ships, men, and

guns we had at our command; so much to inspire them with awe: and now

for their good will. The whole party were rigged out with fresh

blankets, and red handkerchiefs for each, which they use as a turban.

The chief was attired in a uniform of one of our tallest and stoutest

officers: navy buttons, epaulets, sword, cap with a gold band, boots,

and spurs; and a silver chain was put about his neck, to which a medal

was attached, recognizing him as the high chief of the tribe. He looked

every inch a chief. The band struck up Hail Columbia, and they departed,

vowing eternal allegiance to the Americans. The sailors were delighted

with these savages, and half envied them their wild life.

SATURDAY, AUG. 15. To-day the first newspaper ever published in

California made its appearance. The honor, if such it be, of writing its

Prospectus, fell to me. It is to be issued on every Saturday, and is

published by Semple and Colton. Little did I think when relinquishing

the editorship of the North American in Philadelphia, that my next feat

in this line would be off here in California. My partner is an emigrant

from Kentucky, who stands six feet eight in his stockings. He is in a

buckskin dress, a fox-skin cap; is true with his rifle, ready with his

pen, and quick at the type-case.

He created the materials of our office out of the chaos of a small

concern, which had been used by a Roman Catholic monk in printing a few

sectarian tracts. The press was old enough to be preserved as a

curiosity; the mice had burrowed in the balls; there were no rules, no

leads, and the types were rusty and all in pi. It was only by scouring

that the letters could be made to show their faces. A sheet or two of

tin were procured, and these, with a jack-knife, were cut into rules and

leads. Luckily we found, with the press, the greater part of a keg of

ink; and now came the main scratch for paper. None could be found,

except what is used to envelop the tobacco of the cigar smoked here by

the natives. A coaster had a small supply of this on board, which we

procured. It is in sheets a little larger than the common-sized

foolscap. And this is the size of our first paper, which we have

christened the Californian.

Though small in dimensions, our first number is as full of news as a

black-walnut is of meat. We have received by couriers, during the week,

intelligence from all the important military posts through the

territory. Very little of this has transpired; it reaches the public for

the first time through our sheet. We have, also, the declaration of war

between the United States and Mexico, with an abstract of the debate in

the senate. A crowd was waiting when the first sheet was thrown from the

press. It produced quite a little sensation. Never was a bank run upon

harder; not, however, by people with paper to get specie, but exactly

the reverse. One-half of the paper is in English, the other in Spanish.

The subscription for a year is five dollars; the price of a single sheet

is twelve and a half cents; and is considered cheap at that.

SUNDAY, AUG. 16. A brilliant day, and no sounds to disturb its

tranquillity save the moan of the pine-grove as the wind sighs through

it, and the thunder of the breaking waves on the beach. We had divine

service on board the Savannah,—a much more grateful occupation to me

than the investigation of crimes in the Alcaldean court.

Till the Americans took possession of Monterey, the Sabbath was devoted

to amusement. The Indians gave themselves up to liquor, the Mexicans and

Californians to dancing. Whether the bottle or the fiddle had the most

votaries it would be difficult to say. But both had so many, that very

few were left for the church. Some, however, attended mass before they

dressed for the ball-room. But their worship and their waltz came so

close together, that a serious thought had only time to dodge out of the

way.

MONDAY, AUG. 17. A complaint was lodged in my court this morning,

involving the perplexities of a love-matter. The complainant is a

Californian mother, who has a daughter rather remarkable for her

personal attractions. She has two rival suitors, both anxious to marry

her, and each, of course, extremely jealous of the attentions of the

other, and anxious to outdo him in the fervency and force of his own

assiduities. The family are consequently annoyed, and desire the court

to interfere in some way for their repose. I issued an order that

neither of the rival suitors should enter the house of the complainant,

unless invited by her, till the girl had made up her mind which she

would marry; for it appeared she was very much perplexed, being equally

pleased with both: and now, I suppose, roses and all the other silent

tokens of affection will pass plenty as protestations before.

“The course of true love never did run smooth.”

TUESDAY, AUG. 18. The ado made to reach the hand of the undecided girl

shows how very rare such specimens of beauty are in these parts. She has

nothing to recommend her as a sober, industrious, frugal housekeeper.

She knows how to dance, to play on the guitar and sing, and that is all.

She would be as much lost in the kitchen as a dolphin on dry land. She

would do to dress flowers in the balcony of a millionaire, but as the

wife of a Californian, her children would go without a stocking, and her

husband without a shirt. Her two suitors own, probably, the apparel

which they have on and the gay horses which they ride, but neither of

them has a real in his pocket. Yet they are quite ready to be married:

just as if the honey-moon had a horn of plenty instead of a little urn

of soft light, which gushes for a few brief nights, and then leaves its

devotee like one of the foolish virgins, whose lamp had gone out!

WEDNESDAY, AUG. 19. Several of Gen. Castro’s officers have just arrived

in town, delivered themselves up, and been put upon parole. They state

that the general’s camp, near the Pueblo de los Angeles, broke up a few

days since in the night; that the general and Gov. Pico had started for

Sonora with fifty men and two hundred horses; that their flight was

hastened by the approach of Com. Stockton, with the forces of the

Congress, on the north, and Maj. Fremont, with his riflemen, on the

south. The commodore had reached, it appears, within a few hours’ march

of his camp. The general had taken the precaution to send forward in

advance a portion of his horses, to serve as fresh relays on his

arrival. He expects to leave Col. Fremont on the right, and will be

obliged to cross an immense sandy plain, lying between the Pueblo and

Red River, where his horses will be for two days without water or food.

He is to cross Red River, a broad and rapid stream, on a raft, the

construction of which will detain him a day; his horses will swim, for

California horses are trained to rush over mountain-torrents. The only

hope of his capture lies in his detention at the river, unless Col.

Fremont, anticipating his flight, has thrown a force south to intercept

him. Once across the river he is safe; nothing but a tornado, or a

far-striking thunder-bolt, can overtake a Californian on horseback.

THURSDAY, AUG. 20. An Indian was brought before me to-day, charged with

having stolen a horse. He was on his way, it appears, to Monterey, and

when within thirty miles, his own horse having given out, he turned him

adrift, and lassoed one belonging to another man, which he rode in, and

then set him at liberty as he had his own. The owner arrived soon after,

recovered his horse, and had the Indian arrested, who confessed the

whole affair, and only plead in excuse that his own horse had become too

tired to go further. I sentenced the Indian to three months’ labor on

the public works. He seemed at first very much surprised at what he

considered the severity of the sentence; but said he should work his

time out faithfully, and give me no further trouble. As he was half

naked, I ordered him comfortable apparel, and then delivered him over to

Capt. Mervin, to be employed in excavating a trench around the

newly-erected fort.

FRIDAY, AUG. 21. A Californian is most at home in his saddle; there he

has some claims to originality, if not in character then in costume. His

hat, with its conical crown and broad rim, throws back the sun’s rays

from its dark, glazed surface. It is fastened on by a band which passes

under his chin, and rests on a red handkerchief, which turbans his head,

from beneath which his black locks flow out upon the wind.

The collar of his linen rolls over that of his blue spencer, which is

open under the chin, is fitted closely to his waist, and often

ornamented with double rows of buttons and silk braid. His trowsers,

which are fastened around his loins by a red sash, are open to the knee,

to which his buckskin leggins ascend over his white cotton drawers. His

buckskin shoes are armed with heavy spurs, which have a shaft some ten

inches long, at the end of which is a roller, which bristles out into

six points, three inches long, against which steel plates rattle with a

quick, sharp sound.

His feet rest in stirrups of wood, carved from the solid oak, and which

are extremely strong and heavy. His saddle rises high fore and aft, and

is broadly skirted with leather, which is stamped into figures, through

the interstices of which red and green silk flash out with gay effect.

The reins of his bridle are thick and narrow, and the head-stall is

profusely ornamented with silver plate. His horse, with his long flowing

mane, arching neck, broad chest, full flanks, and slender legs, is full

of fire. He seldom trots, and will gallop all day without seeming to be

weary. On his back is the Californian’s home. Leave him this home, and

you may have the rest of the world.

SATURDAY, AUG. 22. Our little paper, the Californian, made its

appearance again to-day. Many subscribers have sent in their names since

our last, and all have paid in advance. It is not larger than a sheet of

foolscap; but this foolscap parallel stops, I hope, with the shape. Be

this as it may, its appearance is looked for with as much interest as

was the arrival of the mail by the New Yorkers and Bostonians in those

days when a moon waxed and waned over its transit.

SUNDAY, AUG. 23. Officiated to-day on board the Savannah. There is no

Protestant church here. Emigrants have generally become Roman Catholics.

Policy, rather than persuasion or conviction, suggested it. Men who make

no pretensions to religion, have nothing to give up in the shape of

creeds or conscientious scruples. They are like driftwood, which runs

into the eddy which is the strongest; or like migratory birds, which

light where they can find the best picking and the softest repose. The

woodpecker never taps an undecayed tree; and a worldling seldom embraces

a thoroughly sound faith.

The land of gold; or, Three years in California · 第 2 / 33 章