HALF-HARDY BULBS
Gladioli--Ixias--Sparaxises--Babianas--Morphixias--Tritonias
GLADIOLI
Although there are some districts in which the greater number of the
Gladioli may be grown as hardy bulbs and left in the same position for
years without removal, in the vast majority of British gardens they are
more satisfactorily treated as half-hardy, and are lifted and replanted
annually. They are less liable to disease, and less apt to be injured
by frost in severe winters. Those, however, who wish to establish them
permanently, will do well to plant rather deeper than is usually
recommended--say, eight inches from the crowns to the surface of the
soil.
The general cultivation of Gladioli is very simple. They may be grown
well in any good loam, enriched in autumn by a supply of properly
rotted animal manure being dug in deeply. In the case of the pretty
early-flowering Gladioli, which are often satisfactory when permanently
planted, they are put into the ground in late autumn, and protected
with a layer of two inches of dry litter or cocoa-nut fibre. The
greater number of the species, like the exquisite hybrid Gladioli, may
be planted in April or early May. The corms should be about six inches
deep, and are best planted by means of a trowel to form the holes,
unless the soil has become too solid, in which case it ought to be
forked over before planting the corms. For exhibition they may be
planted about six inches apart, but for border decoration they look
well in groups of three or five at a closer distance. Many charming
effects may also be produced by planting Gladioli in beds, with a
groundwork formed by a low plant of contrasting or harmonising colours.
Other good effects may also be made by arranging them with other tall
flowers. Gladioli should be staked early, and it is desirable to put in
sticks when the corms are planted, unless they are in a position where
the long stakes will look unsightly. In this case short sticks may be
placed where the proper stakes are afterwards to go, so as to avoid
injuring the corms when inserting these. They should be timeously
secured with roffia or other soft material. Spikes of bloom intended
for exhibition ought to be shaded and protected from the weather by a
glass fronted box, with the lower portion of the glass shaded by
whitening or canvas as the lower blooms open. When the leaves become
yellow the corms may be lifted and, after drying slightly in a cool
airy place, be stored free from frost until planting time.
The leading section of Gladioli is that formed by the gandavensis
varieties, charming hybrids, which through a long period have been
constantly improved until their almost perfect flowers have been
produced. Even the best of the present day are being gradually
superseded by novelties, and a selection of a few would only
mislead. Named varieties procured from reliable firms will all give
satisfaction, and seedlings of great beauty can be bought at a moderate
price, and will often give flowers suitable even for exhibition. The
scarlet G. brenchleyensis is indispensable for garden decoration.
The Lemoinei section, from G. purpureo-auratus and gandavensis
varieties, is also very important, though it is not so perfect in form
as the gandavensis flower. These Lemoinei varieties are characterised
by fine blotches on some of the segments. They are slightly hardier
than the preceding. These are still being much improved.
The nanceianus section comprises a number of very showy flowers,
particularly suited for garden decoration or for cutting for large
vases. The plants are tall, and the blooms are of great size. The
Childsii varieties are also very effective plants in the garden, and
are of fine colours. Several new hybrids are at present in course of
improvement and will, in time, add much to the beauty of our gardens.
The species are not much grown, but there will be found among them a
number of very pretty plants, which only await a demand to be readily
obtainable. I have only space to refer to such as alatus, cardinalis,
galeatus, hirsutus, dracocephalus, præcox, ringens, Saundersii,
psittacinus, purpureo-auratus, and tristis, as all being interesting
and not devoid of beauty of their own.
The hybrid Gladioli, as well as the species, make good pot plants which
may be treated in a similar way to such bulbs as Hyacinths. Named
varieties are propagated by offsets, by division of the corms, each
portion having an eye attached, and by "spawn," the cormlets at the
base of the corms which are grown on until they reach flowering size.
Gladioli are also raised from seeds, sown in pans, or in the open
ground in spring.
IXIAS, SPARAXISES, BABIANAS, MORPHIXIAS, AND TRITONIAS
For convenience of treatment, these pretty and useful bulbs may well be
grouped together. They are possessed of brilliant colouring, and few
things are prettier or attract more attention than beds of these
flowers. They are also lovely pot plants, and can be well grown in the
cool greenhouse or conservatory. In some places they are hardy and may
be left without much attention, but, as a general rule, they need the
little care now recommended to bring them to perfection. For their
cultivation, a bed with a south aspect, of rich, light loam, raised six
inches above the level of the garden, is to be preferred, special care
being taken that the drainage is perfect. The bulbs should be planted
from October to January, at a depth of from three to four inches, and
about three inches apart. If the foliage does not appear until spring,
a little dry litter is all the protection required, but should it
pierce through the soil earlier, a mat or two may be placed over the
bed in frosty weather. When the foliage dies down after flowering, the
bulbs may be lifted and dried off. For pot work, from five to six bulbs
are enough for a five-inch pot, and loam, leaf-mould, and silver sand
form a good compost. The best time to plant in pots is from September
to December, and the soil should be slightly moist, but not so wet as
to be adhesive. After making the compost firm about the bulbs, place
the pots, plunged in cocoa-fibre or ashes, in a cold frame until the
plants appear, when water may be given very moderately, and the lights
kept off in all favourable weather. When the plants have made some
growth, remove the pots to the greenhouse or conservatory, keeping them
near the glass and giving a sufficiency of water.
The Ixia, or African Corn Lily, is a charming plant, with long racemes
of brilliantly coloured flowers, whose dark centres add much to their
beauty. Mixed varieties can be bought very cheaply, and will give many
beautiful flowers. Bulb dealers also offer named collections at
moderate prices. Azurea, blue; Beauty of Norfolk, yellow; Conqueror,
yellow; crateroides, bright scarlet, and a capital thing; Donnatello,
scarlet; erubescens major, rose-carmine; Excelsior, crimson-scarlet;
magnificum, yellow; nitens, magenta; Queen of Roses, rose; viridiflora,
a charming thing, with sea-green black-centred flowers; and White
Queen, pure white, with crimson centre, are all desirable. Morphixias
are now included by botanists with the Ixia. They bloom rather later.
The varieties of paniculata should be grown. Sparaxises are equally
beautiful, but are of dwarfer habit. Among the most useful is S.
tricolor, which has scarlet flowers with a yellow centre. The others
are not so much grown under name as formerly, as mixed varieties are
cheaper, and give good flowers. Fire King is bright with its scarlet
and black flowers, with a yellow centre, and Angelique, white;
Garibaldi, crimson; Lady Carey, white, blotched purple; maculata,
white, purple, and primrose; Queen Victoria, white, yellow, and black,
are all good.
Babianas are also very beautiful with their dwarf habit, plaited
hirsute leaves, and their self-coloured or strongly contrasted flowers.
Apart from the species, of which there are upwards of twenty, there are
a number of named varieties. Atro-cyanea, purple-blue and white; and
rubro-cyanea, blue and crimson, are both varieties of B. stricta.
Others worth growing are:--Attraction, blue; General Scott, lavender;
Hellas, yellow; Julia, white and blue; speciosa, mauve; and villosa,
blue. The plant called S. pulcherrima is Dierama pulcherrimum, which is
named among hardy bulbs.
The Tritonias now include Montbretia Pottsii, but the plants, forms of
T. crocata, generally known in gardens by the former name, more
resemble the Sparaxis in their habit than the popular Montbretia of
modern times. They are grown like the Ixia, but are rather more tender,
and do best if kept indoors in winter. They bloom later than the
Sparaxis, and differ in their leading colours, these being buff, rose,
salmon, and orange. Good forms and varieties are amoena, yellow;
Bella, blush; crocata, bright orange; elegans, orange-cerise; Eleonore,
buff; and speciosa, orange-scarlet. Mixed varieties can be bought
cheaply.