HARDY BULBS
Calochorti and
Cyclobothras--Camassias--Colchicums--Convallarias--Forcing Lily of the
Valley--Corydalises--Crinums--Crocosmias and Montbretias--Crocuses
CALOCHORTI AND CYCLOBOTHRAS
The Calochortus, with which is now included the Cyclobothra, is one of
our most beautiful bulbous plants, its appearance well justifying the
names of Butterfly Tulip or Star Tulip applied to it. With a little
protection in the way of rough litter, it will thrive outside in mild
districts, but those who have any fear for the safety of their bulbs
can grow these flowers in frames. They like a raised bed of light, dry
soil in which they may be planted in September or October three inches
deep, and protected with dry straw or spruce branches. When danger from
severe frost is over, this may be removed and plenty of water given. If
grown in frames, the lights may be removed at that time. There are now
many species and varieties in cultivation, but the following form a
good selection for those who wish to begin their cultivation:--albus,
pulchellus, cæruleus major (these like a soil largely of leaf-mould, in
half-shade), Purdyi, luteus, splendens, and any of the venustus
varieties, especially those of the "Eldorado" strain. After the leaves
die down, the bulbs should either be lifted and dried, or covered with
a frame.
CAMASSIAS
The Camassias, or Quamashes, are handsome plants with long leaves and
tall spikes of flowers of much beauty, although rather fugacious. The
blooms are generally blue, but there is a white variety of the pretty
C. esculenta and a creamy-white one called Leichtlinii. Fraseri is very
pretty, and Cusickii and Engelmanni are also worth growing. They like a
rather moist, peaty soil and a little shade when they bloom in May or
June.
COLCHICUMS
Colchicums or Meadow Saffrons are of much value in the garden in
autumn, and in large clumps or masses produce a splendid effect. The
few spring species are of less merit and are only desirable for those
who like collections of uncommon flowers. They like a rather rich soil,
and a sunny position. As the leaves appear in spring, the Colchicums
should be grown through grass or other herbage where the flowers can
have some support. The best time for planting is immediately after the
leaves become yellow. The tops of the corms or bulbs should be about
three inches below the surface. Colchicums are very poisonous and must
not be planted where there can be any danger of their being eaten for
edible tubers. The finest in cultivation are Bornmulleri, Sibthorpii,
and speciosum, in several forms, including maximum, rubrum, and the new
white album. Byzantinum is a good species, and some of the double
forms, ascribed to autumnale, are possibly varieties of this. These
double varieties are very useful, the best being album fl. pl., roseum
fl. pl., and striatum fl. pl. The ordinary autumnale, of which there
are several colours from white to purple, is rather weak in the
flower-tubes and is much injured by bad weather. Other good Meadow
Saffrons are cilicicum, Bertoloni, Decaisnei, alpinum, variegatum,
Bivoniæ, and montanum. The spring-blooming crociflorum, with white
flowers lined with violet, is small and much affected by slugs. The new
hydrophyllum, which likes a damp spot, is a neat little spring species;
luteum, also blooming in spring, does not appear to be so hardy as any
of the others.
CONVALLARIAS
The cultivation of the Lily of the Valley out of doors calls for no
special remarks beyond saying that it likes shade and some moisture. It
is also desirable to mention that there are varieties with pink
flowers; with double white flowers; and with gold-striped leaves. The
first of these shows its colouring much better outside than when grown
under glass. Fortin's variety and prolificans are specially good forms.
FORCING LILY OF THE VALLEY
Lily of the Valley is easily forced, and this can be done either by
lifting large clumps or purchasing crowns, and growing them in a
hot-bed or by planting them in pans or pots. The crowns should be kept
above the soil, and they ought to be kept moist and dark until they
have made some growth, when light should be given. For early bloom at
Christmas, the crowns ought to be potted in the beginning or middle of
November. A temperature of from 65 to 70 degrees is suitable for
forcing this favourite flower. Retarded crowns are coming into favour,
and give good results with careful treatment. It is inadvisable to put
these in heat at first.
CORYDALISES
The tuberous-rooted Corydalises are pretty plants resembling in bloom
those of the genus which have a herbaceous habit. The best known are
bulbosa, known also as solida and tuberosa, also called cava, of both
of which there are purple or lilac and white forms. Halleri is a pretty
variety of bulbosa. C. nobilis, with yellow flowers, is a handsome
May-blooming plant. Semenowii and Sewerzowii are both good yellow
species and Scouleri has pale purple flowers and graceful leaves. They
like peaty soil and a little shade.
CRINUMS
The Crinums are remarkably effective flowers, and some are perfectly
hardy if given a warm position, preferably one in front of a greenhouse
or a wall. The best known is longifolium, also called capense, which
has fine fragrant pale rose flowers. The white variety alba is also
pretty. Moorei is hardy if planted as recommended, and Powelli and
Powelli album are equally as hardy as longifolium. Yemense is a fine
white Crinum. Some patience is often necessary until the plants are
strong enough to flower. They need copious supplies of water, and
should have little litter about them in the first few winters. Their
fine leaves are handsome but require a place sheltered from the wind.
CROCOSMIAS AND MONTBRETIAS
These two flowers go naturally together, not only because Crocosmia
aurea is understood to be one of the parents of the hybrid Montbretias,
but also because of the resemblance of their long spikes of bright
flowers. The only species of Crocosmia, that named above, is a pretty
and showy plant, though it is scarcely so hardy as some of the
Montbretias and requires protection with dry litter or ashes in some
districts when grown in the open. Plant about six inches deep in
spring. The form C. a. imperialis is very fine and C. a. maculata is
also worth growing. They all make good pot plants for a cool house.
[Illustration: WHITE CROCUSES IN GRASS]
The hybrid Montbretias are now so well known as to need no
commendation, and the constant production of new varieties renders it
inexpedient to give a list of varieties. While they are perfectly hardy
in some gardens, in others they must be protected in a similar manner
to the Crocosmias. It is also desirable to lift them and replant a few
inches apart when they show signs of flowering unsatisfactorily.
Otherwise they may be treated like the Crocosmias. They like a sunny,
but not too dry, place in the garden.
CROCUSES
Crocuses are such brilliant and beautiful flowers that one need not
occupy space with their praises. Their use in beds, borders, pots, or
in grass is necessary if we are to enjoy our gardens to the full. While
the popular Dutch varieties, whose names will be found in any bulb
catalogue, will retain their place in the garden, they will be largely
supplemented by the different species by whose aid the interest in
these flowers will be much increased. By their help we can not only
extend the Crocus season, so as to have flowers in autumn and winter as
well as in spring, but they will also give us new colours and markings
of much beauty. The autumn Crocuses are of much value. The earliest is
C. vallicola, with creamy flowers, but it is not very hardy and wants a
frame. Speciosus and its larger form Aitchisoni are of great service
with their blue-purple blooms. Zonatus, pulchellus, iridiflorus, and
iridiflorus major are all good, as also are lævigatus, cancellatus,
with its variety asturicus, hadriaticus, medius, nudiflorus,
ochroleucus, Salzmanni, and Tournefortii. Sativus, the old Saffron
Crocus, is showy, but is a shy bloomer in most gardens. Its forms,
cartwrightianus, elwesianus, and Pallasii are better flowerers.
Scharojani should have a frame. White varieties of some of these Croci
are highly prized.
The winter-flowering Croci are also very beautiful, and with the
protection of a little glass over them in bad weather will give much
pleasure, especially in December or January, when other out-door
flowers are scarce. Chrysanthus, which varies much in colour; Imperati,
a valuable species; the charming Sieberi, dalmaticus, etruscus,
Gaillardotti, the yellow Korolkowii, nevadensis, the orange suterianus,
and the pretty suaveolens, might be included and protected by glass
covers from the storms.
Following these come the spring Croci: aureus, said to be the parent of
the Dutch yellow, giving us shades of some variety; while biflorus
yields some very beautiful forms, such as argenteus, estriatus,
Pestalozzoe, pusillus, and Weldeni. Then, apart from the Dutch
varieties, vernus gives a number of forms, George Maw, Leedsi,
leucorhynchus, leucostigma, and Petro Polowsky being among the most
distinct of these. Alatavicus, ancyrensis, banaticus, Balansæ,
corsicus, Fleischeri, gargaricus, Malyi, Olivieri, reticulatus,
stellaris, susianus, the varied versicolor, and the charming
tommasinianus will give many exquisite pictures. These will give little
trouble if planted, in early autumn, about three inches deep in rather
light, peaty soil. Growing Crocuses from seed is very interesting work,
and may be productive of excellent results. Crocuses in pots should be
planted close together, and the pots plunged outside until growth
begins.