CHAPTER IV.

LIGHTHOUSE HOMES.

"And as the evening darkens, lo! how bright,

Through the deep purple of the twilight air,

Beams forth the sudden radiance of its light,

With strange unearthly splendour in its glare.

"Not one alone: from each projecting cape,

And perilous reef, along the ocean's verge,

Starts into life a dim gigantic shape,

Holding its lantern o'er the restless surge.

"Like the great giant Christopher, it stands

Upon the brink of the tempestuous waves,

Wading far out upon the rocks and sands,

The night-o'ertaken mariner to save.

"And the great ships sail outward, and return,

Bending and bowing o'er the billowy swells;

And ever joyful as they see it burn,

They wave their silent welcomes and farewells.

"Steadfast, serene, immovable, the same

Year after year, through all the silent night,

Burns on for evermore that quenchless flame--

Shines on that inextinguishable light."--Longfellow.

No history of Grace Darling would be complete that did not contain some

reference to lighthouses; since it was in one of them that she lived,

and in association with it that her thrilling deeds were done. The

lighthouse is not a modern invention, though modern science and art

have brought it to its present state of perfection. The beacon-fire

was known to the ancients, and the fire-towers of the Mediterranean

were justly celebrated.

The first regular light seems to have been placed at the entrance to

the Hellespont; but of greater notoriety was the large tower on the

island of Pharos, off Alexandria, which was so ingeniously constructed

that it has been a model for many a modern lighthouse. Some incredible

stories are told about this light, which, it is said, could be seen

over the sea for a distance of thirty-four miles! Edrisi thus

describes it:--"This pharos has not its like in the world for skill of

construction and solidity. It is built of excellent stones, of the

kind called Kedan, the layers of which are united by molten lead, and

the joints are so adherent that the whole is indissoluble, though the

waves of the sea from the north incessantly beat against it. This

edifice is singularly remarkable, as much on account of its height as

of its massiveness: it is of exceeding utility, because its fire burns

night and day for the guidance of navigators, and is visible at the

distance of a day's sail. During the night, it shines like a star: by

day, you may distinguish its smoke."

There was a remarkable pharos built at Ostia by the Emperor Claudius,

which was erected on an artificial breakwater. Then there was the

light of Puteoli, which, in the far-away days of Rome, was of service

to the seamen who were seeking to enter the port. Augustus, who

provided the harbour of Ravenna, enriched it with a light. Charybdis

and Scylla had also their warning beacon, and Caprera too lifted its

light to save ancient vessels from destruction. There was also the

Timian Tower, which was erected for navigators, but its design was

frustrated by wreckers, who lighted other fires, in order to mislead

the seamen, and lure them to ruin and death.

There was a very ancient and remarkable light at Boulogne. It was said

to have been first built by the Emperor Caligula, in order to

perpetuate the victories he meant to win. It became, however, of great

service as a lighthouse-tower, and it is thought that, as early as the

year A.D. 191, it flashed a friendly light across the sea. Time,

however, and the repeated assaults of foes, robbed it of its strength

and glory. The men of Boulogne allowed it to perish, and then thought

they were free of all obligation. The case, however, was tried in

court, and they were sentenced either to restore it, or pay two

thousand herrings, delivered fresh and dry every year. Very early,

indeed, there was a light-tower in our own land, on the cliff at Dover,

relics of which may even now be seen. It was built by the Romans, of

very strong material, tufa, concrete, and red-tile brick. It was

probably used as a lighthouse about the time of the Norman conquest,

and is now devoted to purposes of government storage. The Colossus of

Rhodes is said to have been used as a beacon, but there is no proof

that it was so.

Englishmen are notorious for the facility they have of making money,

and some enterprising men among our forefathers lighted beacons along

the coast, and levied tolls upon those who benefited by their light;

and James I. used to sell this privilege to his subjects. In the diary

of Lord Grenville, is found this entry--"Mem. To watch the moment when

the king is in a good temper to ask of him a lighthouse." This plan,

however, was not very effective, and the public grew increasingly

dissatisfied with it until, in the reign of William IV., the

Corporation of Trinity House was empowered to buy up all lighthouses,

take possession of all privileges, and have the entire control of the

lighthouse system. There are between three and four hundred members of

the Corporation, amongst whom are the Prince of Wales, the Duke of

Edinburgh, who has the title of Master, and Mr. W. E. Gladstone. The

active committees are composed of retired captains. They have to give

certificates to properly-qualified pilots, attend to sea-marks, to the

ballast of the Thames ships, and many other things. There are two

other Corporations besides that of Trinity House--namely, the

Commission of Northern Lights, and the Board of Ballast of Dublin; and

all these are under the control of the Board of Trade.

The total number of lights in England is 286, in Scotland 134, and in

Ireland 93. So well is our coast lighted that it is said to be

impossible to arrive near a dangerous point without seeing a warning

lighthouse in some direction. They are of many different kinds and

colours, some being placed on towers, some on sand-banks, some in ships

out at sea, some on pier-heads, and in harbours. There are five

principal lights, the "fixed," the "flashing," the "revolving," the

"intermittent," and the "double lights," in one tower.

Two methods of lighting have been employed--the Catoptric and the

Dioptric systems. The Catoptric lights are divided into nine

classes--the fixed, revolving white, revolving red and white, revolving

red with two whites, revolving white with two reds, flashing,

intermittent, double-fixed lights, and double-revolving white lights.

Colza oil is generally used, though the electric light, by its steady

brilliance, is likely to supersede all others, when very great

intensity is required.

Care has to be taken in the selection of the spot where the lighthouse

shall be built, for in some cases they are rendered useless by the

thick fogs that for the greater part of the year obscure their light.

Some mention may here be made of the most remarkable lighthouses on our

coast; and only to mention the words, is to suggest EDDYSTONE. No one

who has seen these dangerous rocks, could doubt that it is most

necessary to have a light fixed to them, for many a noble vessel has

been destroyed by running upon the perilous reef. No one, however, had

the courage or the enterprise to undertake the task, until an eccentric

gentleman of Littleberry, in Essex, generously came forward and offered

to do it. The work of Henry Winstanley, and his end, have been so

graphically and beautifully described by Jean Ingelow, that we take the

liberty to transcribe part of her poem. It tells first how the loss of

the "Snowdrop" troubled Winstanley:--

"'For cloth o' gold and comely frieze,'

Winstanley said, and sighed,

'For velvet coif or costly coat,

They fathoms deep may bide.

"'O thou brave skipper, blithe and kind,

O mariners bold and true;

Sorry of heart, right sorry am I;

A-thinking of yours and you.'"

The loss of the "Snowdrop" is followed by that of another ship, with

contents, and then--

"'I will take horse,' Winstanley said,

'And see this deadly rock,

"'For never again shall barque o' mine

Sail over the windy sea,

Unless, by the blessing of God, for this

Be found a remedy.'"

He went to the Mayor of Plymouth--

"'Lend me a lighter, good Master Mayor,

And a score of shipwrights free,

For I think to raise a lantern-tower

On this rock o' destiny.'"

"The old Mayor laughed, but sighed also,

'Ah, youth,' quoth he, 'is rash;

Sooner, young man, thou'lt root it out

From the sea that doth it lash.'"

Brave Winstanley however, was resolved to try, and after tedious

waiting, he commenced to work:--

"Then he and the sea began their strife,

And worked with power and might,

Whatever the men reared up by day,

The sea broke down by night.

"In fine weather, and foul weather,

The rock his arts did flout,

Through the long days, and the short days,

Till all that year ran out.

"With fine weather, and foul weather,

Another year came in:

'To take his wage,' the workmen said,

'We almost count a sin!'"

They kept on, however, and at last, some sailors who returned told a

wonderful tale of a house they had seen built in the sea:--

"Then sighed the folk, 'The Lord be praised!'

And they flocked to the shore amain;

All over the Hoe, the livelong night,

Many stood out in the rain.

"It ceased, and the red sun reared his head,

And the rolling fog did flee;

And lo! in the offing faint and far,

Winstanley's house at sea!

"In fair weather, with mirth and cheer,

The stately tower uprose;

In foul weather, with hunger and cold,

They were content to close;

"Till up the stair Winstanley went,

To fire the wick afar;

And Plymouth, in the silent night,

Looked out and saw her star.

"Winstanley set his foot ashore:

Said he, 'My work is done;

I hold it strong, to last as long

As aught beneath the sun.

"'But if it fail, as fail it may,

Borne down with ruin and rout,

Another than I shall rear it high,

And brace the girders stout.

"'A better than I shall rear it high,

For now the way is plain;

And though I were dead,' Winstanley said,

'The light would shine again.

"'Yet were I fain still to remain,

Watch in my tower to keep,

And tend my light in the stormiest night

That ever did move the deep;

"'And if it stood, why, then it were good,

Amid their tremulous stirs,

To count each stroke, when the mad waves broke,

For cheers of mariners.

"'But if it fell, then this were well

That I should with it fall;

Since for my part, I have built my heart

In the courses of its wall.'

"With that Winstanley went his way,

And left the rock renowned,

And summer and winter his pilot star

Hung bright o'er Plymouth Sound.

"But it fell out, fell out at last,

That he would put to sea,

To scan once more his lighthouse-tower

On the rock o' destiny.

"And the winds woke and the storm broke,

And wrecks came plunging in;

None in the town that night lay down,

Or sleep or rest to win.

"The great mad waves were rolling graves,

And each flung up its dead;

The seething flow was white below,

And black the sky o'erhead.

"And when the dawn, the dull grey dawn,

Broke on the trembling town,

And men looked south to the harbour mouth,

The lighthouse tower was down!

"Down in the deep where he doth deep

Who made it shine afar,

And then in the night that drowned its light,

Set, with his pilot star.

"Many fair tombs, in the glorious glooms

At Westminster, they show;

The brave and the great lie there in state,

Winstanley lieth low!" [1]

Three years passed by before any other person was found willing to

attempt the task of rebuilding the Eddystone lighthouse, and then

Captain Lovet got a ninety-nine years lease from Trinity House; and

John Rudyard, a silk-mercer of Ludgate-Hill, was engaged as the

architect. His design differed very materially from that of

Winstanley, and was built of Cornish granite and oak. While it was

building England and France were at war with each other, and some of

the workmen were carried off as prisoners. The King Louis XIV.,

however, ordered their immediate release, and giving them substantial

presents, sent them back to their good work. This lighthouse was

finished in 1709, but, in 1755, it was entirely destroyed, not by winds

nor waves, but by fire. Three keepers were there at the time; and when

one of them entered to snuff the candles, he found the cupola in

flames. They strove to extinguish it, but their efforts were in vain.

A fisherman observed the fire, and took the news ashore, when a boat

came out to the assistance of the keepers. Nothing could be done,

however, to stay the progress of the fire, which destroyed the edifice.

One of the keepers immediately fled panic stricken, and was not heard

of again, while one met his death in consequence of some melted lead

dropping into his open mouth.

The third Eddystone lighthouse still rears its head, as it has done for

more than a century. John Smeaton, a clever and practical

mathematician, was the man to whose skill as an architect, and courage

and perseverance as a man, the world is indebted for the light which

still shines upon Eddystone. He was thirty-two years old at the time

when this grand work was given him to do; but he had already shown that

he possessed inventive genius, pluck, and perseverance, in no ordinary

degree. He was quick to see that the two previous structures had not

been sufficient in weight and solidity, and he resolved to build that

which was committed to his care in such a way that it should be strong

enough to resist the force of the winds and waves. He declared that

his building should be of stone, and in shape something like the trunk

of an oak. In August, 1756, the work was begun, but of course it could

not be carried on in the winter. The first stone, weighing two tons

and a quarter, was laid on the 12th of the following June; and the next

day the first course, consisting of four massive stones, which were

dovetailed into the rocks, and formed a compact mass, was completed.

The courses followed each other as rapidly as possible, and by the 11th

of August the sixth was done, which brought the erection so high as to

be out of reach of the ordinary tides. On the 30th of September the

ninth course was completed, and then the builders had to leave off work

for the winter.

It is easy to conceive of the anxiety which Smeaton suffered during the

months which were unusually stormy; but in May, when he and his workmen

were again able to reach the rock, they found, to their great joy, that

the winter's floods had rather perfected than impaired their work.

They gladly commenced operations again, and by September the

twenty-fourth course was completed. They had now got as far as the

store-room. They worked with a will, and during the next summer the

second and third floors were finished. As the building was in

progress, Smeaton had inscribed on the walls these words--"Except the

Lord build the house, they labour in vain who build it." And after it

was finished, he had the words, "Laus Deo," engraved upon the

top-stone. The erection was finished, and the lantern lighted, on the

16th of October, 1769, and has remained ever since, a monument of the

undaunted energy and perseverance of Englishmen.

Another celebrated lighthouse is that of "The Smalls," built on one of

the dangerous rocks that lie near the entrance of Milford Haven. It

was built by Mr. Phillips, who did it not for gain, but in order to

save his fellow-creatures. The architect he employed was a musical

instrument maker, named Whiteside. The work was begun in 1772, and

persevered with until it was finished. In the beginning of the year

1777, Whiteside and his companions found themselves in great straits,

and they wrote a letter and put it inside a barrel, and sent it afloat,

hoping it would reach the shore:--

"THE SMALLS, _Feb. 1, 1777_.

"SIR--Being now in a most dangerous and distressed condition upon the

Smalls, I do hereby trust Providence will bring to your hand this,

which prayeth for your immediate assistance to fetch us off before next

spring, or we fear we shall perish--our water all gone, and our fire

quite gone, and our house in a most melancholy manner. I doubt not but

you will fetch us from here as fast as possible: we can be got off at

some part of the tide almost any weather. I need say no more, but

remain your distressed humble servant.

"H. WHITESIDE."

"We were distressed in a gale of wind upon the 13th of January, since

which have not been able to keep any light, but we could not have kept

any light above sixteen nights longer for want of oil and candles,

which makes us murmur, and think we are forgotten.

"EDWARD EDWARDS.

"G. ADAMS.

"J. PRICE.

"P.S.--We doubt not, whoever takes up this, will be so merciful as to

cause it to be sent to Thomas Williams, Esq., Trelethin, near St.

David's, Wales."

At one time, during a very stormy winter, the Smalls lighthouse-keepers

were cut off from communication with the mainland for four months.

Vessels had tried to reach them, but had been driven back by the

violence of the weather. Once, however, when a ship had gone near

enough to get a sight of the Smalls, it was reported that a man was

seen standing in the upper gallery, and that a flag of distress was

flying near him. When at last a fisherman succeeded in reaching the

rock, he found that one of the keepers was dead, and the other had

securely fixed the corpse in an upright position in the gallery, that

the body might be preserved, and he himself not injured by contact with

it. This, and a similar event that happened on the Eddystone, caused

better arrangements to be made; and in future, more than two men were

placed in lighthouses likely to be exposed to circumstances of equal

danger.

Another marvellous lighthouse is that erected by Robert Stevenson on

the Bell Rock. The most ancient light which Scotland can boast is that

of the Isle of May. The tower is very old and weather-beaten, and

bears date 1635. At Grass Island, and also at North Ronaldshay, lights

were kindled in 1789. In 1794, Robert Stevenson saw the Skerries

lighthouse completed. He also put lights on Start Point; and for the

better lighting of the dangerous shore, changed the North Ronaldshay

lighthouse into a beacon.

But round about the light on the Bell Rock more romance centres. This

rock is a very perilous one, lying eleven miles off the coast of

Forfarshire, and, if tradition may be trusted, the first attempt to rob

it of some of its awful power was made by an ancient abbot, who hung a

bell over it, so that the winds and waves should cause it to ring, and

thus warn mariners who were in danger.

Southey's ballad of Sir Ralph the Rover tells the story of how the good

abbot's design was frustrated, and how the perpetrator of a foul deed

was punished:--

"The buoy of the Inchcape bell was seen,

A darker speck on the ocean green:

Sir Ralph the Rover walked his deck,

And he fixed his eye on the darker speck.

"He felt the cheering power of spring,

It made him whistle, it made him sing;

His heart was mirthful to excess,

But the Rover's mirth was wickedness.

"His eye was on the Inchcape float.

Quoth he, 'My men, put out the boat,

And row me to the Inchcape Rock,

And I'll plague the Abbot of Aberbrothok.'

"The boat is lowered, the boatmen row,

And to the Inchcape Rock they go;

Sir Ralph bent over from the boat,

And he cut the bell from the Inchcape float.

"Down sunk the bell with a gurgling sound,

The bubbles rose and burst around.

Quoth Sir Ralph, 'The next who comes to the rock

Won't bless the Abbot of Aberbrothok.'

"Sir Ralph the Rover sailed away,

He scoured the seas for many a day;

And now grown rich with plundered store,

He steers his course for Scotland's shore.

"So thick a haze o'erspreads the sky,

They cannot see the sun on high;

And the wind hath blown a gale all day--

At evening it hath died away.

"On the deck the Rover takes his stand;

So dark it is they see no land.

Quoth Sir Ralph, 'It will be lighter soon,

For there is the dawn of the rising moon.'

"'Canst hear,' said one, 'the breakers roar?

For methinks we should be near the shore.'

'Now, where we are I cannot tell,

But I wish I could hear the Inchcape bell!'

"They hear no sound, the swell is strong;

Though the wind hath fallen they drift along,

Till the vessel strikes with a shivering shock--

'O Christ! it is the Inchcape Rock!'

"Sir Ralph the Rover tore his hair,

He curst himself in his despair;

The waves rush in on every side,

The ship is sinking beneath the tide.

"But even in his dying fear

One dreadful sound could the Rover hear--

A sound as if with the Inchcape bell

The devil below was ringing his knell."

Many after attempts were made to put beacons upon the Inchcape, but all

were destroyed by the stormy waves, one after the other, until Robert

Stevenson undertook to build a structure that should be strong enough

to stand. He began on August 7, 1807, and the first thing he did, was

to provide a workshop and sleeping places for the men who were to be

engaged in the enterprise. It took all the summer to do this; for

often, when the men were at work, there would come a big wave over the

rock, and put out the fire. The smith who worked at the bellows often

stood knee-deep in water, which sometimes covered the rock to the depth

of twelve feet. Once, when a cargo of stores had been landed, and

thirty-two men were at work, the vessel which had conveyed them, and

was to take them back, and which was named the "Smeaton," broke away

from the moorings and got adrift. Mr. Smeaton was almost the first to

notice this, and he became very anxious as he remembered the number of

men on the rock, and that they had only two boats, which were capable

of carrying but eight men each. The men were at first so busy, that

they did not realise the danger of their position, but presently it was

found that, in consequence of the gale, the tide was coming in more

rapidly than usual, and the men, after having worked three hours, left

off and went to look for the boats. It was found that one of them had

drifted away with the "Smeaton." The men looked at one another in

silence. It seemed certain that all could not escape, and there was an

awful time of suspense and despair. Stevenson felt it so keenly that

when he tried to speak he found his mouth so parched that it was

impossible. He stooped to moisten his lips by drinking some of the

sea-water which the tide had left in holes in the rocks, and then he

heard the welcome cry, "A boat! a boat!" Presently a pilot-boat came

and rescued them from their perilous situation, and the lives of the

brave engineer and his men were saved. For the reward of rendering

this service, the pilot received a pension when too old to work.

A tremendous gale overtook the company on one occasion, which lasted

ten days, and prevented them from reaching the rock. On the 6th

September, a very heavy sea struck the ship, which flooded the deck and

poured into the cabins below. It was thought the vessel had foundered,

and that all on board would go down with her. They were in perfect

darkness, and some of the men engaged in praying, some repeating hymns,

and others declared that if they could only get on shore, they would

never come on the water again. Stevenson made his way on deck and

looked around. The billows seemed to be ten or fifteen feet high, and

each appeared as if about to overwhelm the ship. One man, a black,

lashed himself to the foremast, and kept watch in case the ship should

break loose from her moorings. The next morning the sun rose and the

gale abated, but the sea was still very rough, and at the Bell Rock the

spray was thrown up to a height of forty or fifty feet. When, at last,

the waters had grown calm, and Stevenson was able again to visit the

rock, he found that the force of the sea had removed six immense blocks

of granite twelve or fifteen paces off; and in the smith's forge the

ash-pan, though it had a heavy cast-iron back, had been washed away,

and was found on the opposite side of the rock. Stevenson thought

there was no time to lose, so he and the men worked away at the

building, which was to be a home for the workmen, and a temporary

beacon. They finished the erection in about one hundred and three

hours; and thinking of their heroic, courageous and persevering

conduct, one is reminded of the building of Nehemiah's wall, which was

even less difficult and dangerous than this work on the Bell Rock:--"So

built we the wall; and all the wall was joined together unto the half

thereof; _for the people had a mind to work_."

On the 6th day of October, the Bell Rock lighthouse builders

relinquished work for that year, having done little more than erect the

temporary workshops and beacon. They were still engaged, however, in

preparing materials for the lighthouse; and the stones were laid down

as they would be in the building. They were then carefully marked and

numbered, and made all ready to be used as soon as possible. In the

summer of the next year the undaunted men were on the rock again. On

the 10th of July the foundation-stone was laid; on which Mr. Stevenson

pronounced these words: "May the great Architect of the universe

complete and bless this building!" The men then gave three cheers, and

drank to the success of the lighthouse.

They worked on that year till the 21st September; and began again--the

next on the 27th of May. On the 8th of July, they found to their great

joy that the tide, even at high water, did not overflow the building;

and so glad were they that they hoisted flags everywhere and fired a

salute of three guns. By the 25th of August, it was thirty-one and a

half feet above the rock. Mr. Stevenson was so anxious about his work

that he paid two or three visits to the rock during the next winter.

He found, however, that it was uninjured by the storms, and began to

have a hope that during the coming season it would be completed. Nor

were his hopes vain.

The men began work again on the 10th of May. In July they had a visit

from Mrs. Dickson, the only daughter of Smeaton. On the 29th the last

stone was landed upon the rock, and on the 30th the last course was

laid. There had been ninety courses in all. As soon as the work was

finished Stevenson reverently and thankfully offered this

benediction--"May the great Architect of the universe, under whose

blessing this perilous work has prospered, preserve it as a guide to

the mariners."

On the 17th December in the same year, this advertisement recorded the

fact of the lighthouse being finished:--"A lighthouse having been

erected upon the Inchcape, or Bell Rock, situated at the Firths of

Forth and Tay, in north latitude 56 degrees 29 minutes, and west

longitude 2 degrees 22 minutes, the Commissioners of the Northern

Lighthouses hereby give notice, that the light will be from oil, with

reflectors, placed at the height of about one hundred and eight feet

above the medium level of the sea. The light will be exhibited on the

night of Friday, the first day of February 1811, and each night

thereafter, from the going away of daylight in the evening until the

return of daylight in the morning. To distinguish this light from

others on the coast, it is made to revolve horizontally, and to exhibit

a bright light of the natural appearance, and a red-coloured light

alternately, both respectively attaining their greatest strength, or

most luminous effect, in the space of every four minutes; during that

period the bright light will, to a distant observer, appear like a star

of the first magnitude, which after attaining its full strength is

gradually eclipsed to total darkness, and is succeeded by the

red-coloured light, which in like manner increases to full strength,

and again diminishes and disappears. The coloured light, however,

being less powerful, may not be seen for a time after the bright light

is first observed. During the continuance of foggy weather, and

showers of snow, a bell will be tolled by machinery, night and day, at

intervals of half a minute."

The western coast of Scotland has its wonderful light as well as the

eastern. On the Skerryvore Rock is a lighthouse erected by Alan

Stevenson, raised amid much difficulty, but which was as urgently

needed as any around the coast. The Skerryvore Rock, although not

altogether submerged, stretches over a distance so considerable that

wrecks upon it were as common as they were awful. In the year 1814,

the Commissioners of Northern Lights visited the reef, accompanied by

Sir Walter Scott, who declared that it was not equalled for loneliness

and desolation, even by the Eddystone or Bell Rock. It was resolved to

build a lighthouse, but the resolution was not carried into effect

until 1834.

Mr. Alan Stevenson, to whom the honourable but difficult work was

entrusted, began by building places to shelter the men; but these

buildings were swept away by a storm in the winter of the same year.

In the following early summer, the undaunted workers began again, and

completed an erection of three storeys by September. It was forty feet

above the rock; and here Mr. Stevenson and his men waited for the

weather, or rested from their labours. The whole of the working season

of 1849 was spent in excavating the foundation, to do which required

two hundred and ninety-six charges of gunpowder. Mr. Stevenson has

written an account of the Skerryvore Lighthouse, and he says that,

during the first month which he and his men spent in their curious

home, they suffered considerably from inundations. Once, for a

fortnight, they were unable to hold communication with the mainland,

and they saw "nothing but white plains of foam as far as the eye could

reach." One night he was aroused by the breaking of a tremendous wave

over the barrack, and all the men on the floor below uttered a terrible

cry, and sprang from their beds. They believed that they were in the

sea; and their thankfulness at finding it was not so, may be better

imagined than described.

The foundation-stone of the Skerryvore Lighthouse was laid by the Duke

of Argyle. The men who worked at it had need to be enthusiastic, for

they rose at half-past three in the morning, and frequently continued

toiling for thirteen or fourteen hours a day. This so wearied them,

that they did not know how to keep awake; and Mr. Stevenson says they

frequently went off in a profound slumber while standing or eating

their meals. This solid building was finished in 1844, and its light

is visible at the distance of eighteen miles.

There is a curious circumstance connected with the Sunderland

Lighthouse. It formerly stood on the old pier, but when a new jetty

was built, and a light added, the old one became unnecessary, and it

was decided to demolish it. Mr. Murray, however, an engineer, thought

it might be moved bodily, as it stood, to the place where the new

lighthouse was to be erected. The distance was about four hundred and

seventy-five feet, the weight of the lighthouse seven hundred and

fifty-seven thousand pounds. It possesses an octagonal tower,

sixty-four feet high, and fifteen feet in diameter at the base. Some

openings were made at the bottom of the tower, and strong planks of oak

were introduced, then the lowest part of the building was destroyed, so

that the tower rested on the platform of timber planks, which itself

rested on a number of cast-iron wheels made like those of a railway

train, and sleepers were laid down in front and over these. The

building passed a few feet at a time, while strong men drew the iron

chains, which were wound upon windlasses. The work was accomplished in

thirteen hours and twenty-four minutes; and that evening the lamp was

lighted as usual.

Visitors to the Isle of Wight will have seen two remarkable lighthouses

on its coast. That on one of the sharp rocks, called the Needles, has

a light so brilliant as to be seen at sea from a distance of fourteen

miles. It has a fog-bell, which rings in very stormy weather, and may

be heard five miles off. There is another valuable lighthouse at St.

Catherine's Point, which is an ornament to the beautiful neighbourhood.

Its height is one hundred feet. In the midst of the interesting

scenery of Cape Cornwall, the visitor, gazing out to sea, will observe

the Longships Lighthouse. It is needed, for the rocks are most

dangerous--the Armed Knight and Irish Lady being fantastic names for

huge masses that would send many a splendid ship to destruction.

Then there is the Wolfs Crag Lighthouse; and the Lizard Point

Lighthouse, which, with the wonderfully-marked rocks, will delight

those who are seeking instruction and entertainment at the same time as

they find change and rest. The North and South Forelands have

lighthouses, and Holyhead throws its radiance over the waters that lave

the feet of the Welsh mountains.

Altogether the Englishman has reason to be thankful that his island

home, so girt about with dangerous sands and rocks, is yet so guarded

by its friendly lights that the mariner, going or returning, may be

warned of the hindrances to progress, and the "terror by night," which

lie hidden under the pitiless, deceitful waters.

No one can consider the subject of lighthouses without thinking also of

lighthouse-homes and those who inhabit them. It is a remarkable fact

that there is no position so dreary or dangerous, but some one can be

found to fill it. And so brave are certain individuals amongst us,

that it may almost be said they covet situations where courage,

endurance, and self-denial, are essential. It is necessary, indeed,

that lighthouse keepers should be in many respects superior men; and he

who thinks that "any one will do to light a lamp," is mistaken. Men

who occupy such a high position must be well tested, faithful men. Do

they not hold in their hands the lives of emigrants seeking foreign

shores for work--good successful traders, bringing home their savings

to make widowed mothers, or aged and infirm fathers happy--sailor lads,

for whose return fair English maidens pray with love's longing, and

little children, who are to grow up into statesmen, philanthropists,

and deliverers? Would it do for light-house-keepers to be men who

trembled at the storm, and turned pale when their tower shook, and

forgot to light the lamp, when the lightning's forked tongue was

darting hither and thither? May a light-house-keeper put his own life

and health first, and his duty next? Must he allow anxiety for a sick

child, or sorrow for a dying wife, to withdraw him for one evening from

his work? No. All that is required of a faithful soldier is required,

in even a greater degree, in the keeper of a lighthouse. He has

therefore to receive a course of instruction, and to be subjected to

strict discipline. He has to pass a medical examination, and produce

unexceptionable testimonials with regard to his moral character. In a

word, he must be in all respects a most trustworthy man, or he will not

do for a lighthouse-keeper.

The first and chief rule for the guidance of the man to whom is

allotted the post of honour and danger is this--"_You are to light the

lamps every evening at sunsetting, and keep them constantly burning

bright and clear till sunrising_." Nothing--no personal matter of

sickness or sorrow, must prevent his doing this. While life is in him,

and his senses continue, this injunction is to be ringing in his

memory, and guiding his actions. There is plenty of other work to do

besides. Every part of the building is to be kept clean, and the

lightroom apparatus scrupulously so. The glass is to be washed, rubbed

with a soft dry leather, and kept perfectly free from dust and all

impurities.

But the chief thing after all is to light the lamp, and watch to see

that it does not burn dimly, or go out. In the long nights of winter

the watcher is relieved after a number of hours, but he must not leave

the room on any pretence until his comrade comes to take his place. He

must not sleep, nor even take his ease; his attention is to be fixed on

the light alone. The night experiences of such men must sometimes be

startling, and even awful. What strange noises they must occasionally

hear, when the winds and waves are fighting out their battles! What

fearful cries as, notwithstanding the friendly light, a vessel strikes

upon the rocks, and the people are tossed into the surging waters.

They have visitors too; often in the night the wild sea-birds,

fascinated by the light, as the moth is by the candle, come dashing

against the lantern with such violence as to break the glass. But

whatever happens, close to the tower, or away over the stormy waters,

the man knows his duty, and does it, by keeping the light burning

brightly until the sunrising.

Life in the lighthouse must needs be very monotonous, when the house is

built upon some rock, far out at sea. Then, for some weeks of the

worst weather, it is not possible for the keepers to receive visitors

or supplies; it is necessary therefore that an abundance of the

necessaries of life should be stowed away in the building.

The men too are provided with libraries; so that if they see few faces

of their fellows, they can at least hold communion with books; and it

was a happy thought to send all those who live in isolated positions

such companions. But these are not the only ones. Two, three, or four

men, are stationed at such places as the Eddystone, so that each may

take his turn in spending some time with his family on shore. Those

lighthouses which are situated on the mainland are comfortable homes,

with their little plot of ground to cultivate, and visitors, at least

in the summer season, to talk with. It is in the winter, and when the

house is inaccessible, that the men's powers of endurance are tried.

It will never happen again, as it did before the whole system had

reached its present state of perfection, that one man should be left on

a solitary rock, with the corpse of his comrade, while the seething

waters prevented any one from coming to his assistance. But even now

the life is sufficiently trying. Human nature is apt to be awkward,

and it is desirable that the light-keepers should be good tempered,

friendly men, who will not soon tire of each other, nor quarrel over

misunderstandings and differences of opinion. It must be a happy thing

for a man who is a lighthouse watcher, to be God-fearing and Christian,

and have a wife and children about him. Such a lighthouse as the one

in which he lives may be a Bethel, even though it be in a measure cut

off from all other human habitations. And those who dwell in it may

well feel that they have the especial care and sympathy of the Lord

Jesus, who loved the sea, and frequented it during his stay in this

world. How often must they long to hear His voice coming across the

turmoil of the angry waters, and saying, "It is I, be not afraid." And

how good it must be when the shadows fall, and the night with its

mystery and dangers broods over the waves, for the man to give himself

and his dear ones into the powerful keeping of the Prince of Peace.

From such homes may well come strong brave men, and virtuous women, who

shall always be on the side of right against might--goodness against

evil. Such a home, we may well believe, was that of James Darling, the

father of the heroic maiden of the Farne Isles.[2]

[1] "Poems by Jean Ingelow." Longmans & Co., London.

[2] The writer is indebted for much of the information contained in

this chapter to a deeply interesting and excellent volume by Mr. W. H.

Davenport Adams, entitled, "Lighthouses and Lightships," published by

T. Nelson and Sons, London and Edinburgh.

Grace Darling, Heroine of the Farne Islands · 第 4 / 18 章