Another vessel, built on the same coast, but three times the size

of the _Wanderer_, was the _Sea Gem_, in which I had an extended

experience. Under an old sea-dog of a captain who commanded her the

first part of the voyage, she played more pranks than a jibbing

mule with a new driver. None of the ordinary manœuvres necessary to

a sailing-ship would she perform without the strangest antics and

refusals. She seemed possessed of a stubborn demon of contrariness.

Sometimes at night, when, at the change of the watch, all hands

were kept on deck to tack ship, more than an hour would be wasted

in futile attempts to get her about in a seamanlike way. She would

prance up into the wind gaily enough, as if about to turn in her own

length, and then at the crucial moment fall off again against the

hard-down helm, while all hands cursed her vigorously for the most

obstinate, clumsy vessel ever calked. Or she would come up far enough

for the order of “mainsail haul,” and there she would stick, like

a wall-eyed sow in a muddy lane, hard and fast in irons. With her

mainyards braced a-port and her foreyards a-starboard, she reminded

all hands of nothing so much as the old sea-yarn of the Yankee

schooner-skipper who for the first time found himself in command of a

bark. Quite scared of those big square sails, he lay in port until,

by some lucky chance, he got hold of a mate who had long sailed in

square-rigged vessels. Then he boldly put to sea. But by some evil

hap the poor mate fell overboard and was drowned when they had been

several days out; and one morning a homeward-bounder spied a bark

in irons making rapid signals of distress, although the weather was

fine, and the vessel appeared staunch and seaworthy enough. Rounding

to under the sufferer’s stern, the homeward-bound skipper hailed,

“What’s the matter?” “Oh!” roared the almost frantic Yankee, “for

God’s sake send somebody aboard that knows somethin’ about this kind

er ship. I’ve lost my square-rigged mate overboard, an’ I cain’t git

a move on her nohow!” He’d been trying to sail her “winged out,”

schooner fashion. So disgusted was our skipper with the _Sea Gem_

that he left her in Mobile, saying that he was going to retire from

the sea altogether. But we all believed he was scared to death that

she would run away with him some fine day. Another skipper took

command, a Yankee Welshman by the name of Jones. The first day out I

heard the second mate say to him deferentially, “She’s rather ugly

in stays, sir.” “_Is_ she?” queried the old man, with an astonished

air. “Wall, I should hev surmised she was ez nimble ez a kitten. Yew

don’t say!” Shortly after it became necessary to tack, and, to our

utter amazement, the _Sea Gem_ came about in almost her own length,

with never a suggestion that she had ever been otherwise than as

handy as a St. Ives smack. Nor did she ever after betray any signs of

unwillingness to behave with the same cheerful alacrity. Had her trim

been different we could have understood it, because some ships handy

in ballast are veritable cows when loaded, and _vice versâ_. But that

reasoning had here no weight, since her draft was essentially the

same.

Not without a groan do I recall a passage in one of the handsomest

composite barks I ever saw. Her name I shall not give, as she was

owned in London, and may be running still, for all I know. My eye

lingered lovingly over her graceful lines as she lay in dock, and

I thought gleefully that a passage to New Zealand in her would be

like a yachting-trip. An additional satisfaction was some patent

steering-gear which I had always longed to handle, having been told

that it was a dream of delight to take a trick with it. I admit

that she was right down to her Plimsoll, and I will put it to her

credit that she was only some dozen miles to leeward of the ill-fated

_Eurydice_ when that terrible disaster occurred that extinguished

so many bright young lives. But the water was smooth, and we had no

long row of lower-deck ports open for the sea to rush in when the

vessel heeled to a sudden squall. It is only her Majesty’s ships

that are exposed to such dangers as that. In fact, for the first

fortnight out she was on her extra-special behaviour, although none

of us fellows for’ard liked a dirty habit she had of lifting heavy

sprays over fore and aft in a whole-sail breeze. Presently along came

a snifter from the south-west, and every man of us awoke to the fact

that we were aboard of a hooker saturated with every vicious habit

known to ships. There was no dryness in her. You never knew where or

when she would bow down to a harmless-looking sea and allow it to

lollop on board, or else, with a perversity almost incredible, fall

up against it so clumsily that it would send a blinding sheet of

spray as high as the clues of the upper topsails. Words fail me to

tell of the patent atrocity with which we were condemned to steer.

Men would stand at the wheel for their two hours’ trick, and imagine

tortures for the inventor thereof, coming for’ard at four or eight

bells, speechlessly congested with the volume of their imprecations

upon him. Yet I have no doubt he, poor man, considered himself a

benefactor to the genus seafarer. In any weather you could spin the

wheel round from hard up to hard down without feeling the slightest

pressure of the sea against the rudder. And as, to gain power, speed

must be lost, two turns of the wheel were equal to only one with the

old-fashioned gear. The result of these differences was to a sailor

simply maddening. For all seamen steer as much by the _feel_ of the

wheel as by anything else (I speak of sailing-ships throughout),

a gentle increase of pressure warning you when she wants a little

bit to meet her in her sidelong swing. Not only so, but there is a

subtle sympathy (to a good helmsman) conveyed in those alterations

of pressure which, while utterly unexplainable in words, make all

the difference between good and bad steering. Then, none of us could

get used to the doubling of the amount of helm necessary. We were

always giving her too much or too little. As she was by no means an

easy-steering ship, even had her gear been all right, the consequence

of this diabolical impediment to her guidance was that the man who

kept her within two points and a half, in anything like a breeze,

felt that he deserved high praise.

Still, with all these unpleasantnesses, we worried along in fairly

comfortable style, for we had a fresh mess and railway-duff (a plum

at every station) every Sunday. Every upper bunk in the fo’c’s’le

was leaky, and always remained so; but we rigged up water-sheds that

kept us fairly dry during our slumbers. So we fared southward through

the fine weather, forgetting, with the lax memory of the sailor

for miserable weather, the sloppy days that had passed, and giving

no thought to the coming struggle. Gradually we stole out of the

trade area, until the paling blue of the sky and the accumulation

of torn and feathery cloud-fields warned us of our approach to that

stern region where the wild western wind reigns supreme. The trades

wavered, fell, and died away. Out from the west, with a rush and a

roar, came the cloud-compeller, and eastward we fled before it. An

end now to all comfort fore and aft. For she wallowed and grovelled,

allowing every sea, however kindly disposed, to leap on board, until

the incessant roar of the water from port to starboard dominated our

senses even in sleep. A massive breakwater of two-inch kauri planks

was fitted across the deck in front of the saloon for the protection

of the afterguard, who dwelt behind it as in a stockaded fort. As the

weather grew worse, and the sea got into its gigantic stride, our

condition became deplorable; for it was a task of great danger to

get from the fo’c’s’le to the wheel, impossible to perform without

a drenching, and always invested with the risk of being dashed to

pieces. We “carried on” recklessly in order to keep her at least

ahead of the sea; but at night, when no stars were to be seen, and

the compass swung madly through all its thirty-two points, steering

was mental and physical torture. In fact, it was only possible to

steer at all by the feel of the wind at one’s back, and even then the

best helmsman among us could not keep her within two points on each

side of her course. We lived in hourly expectation of a catastrophe,

and for weeks none of us forward ever left off oilskins and sea-boots

even to sleep in. At last, on Easter Sunday, three seas swept on

board simultaneously. One launched itself like a Niagara over the

stern, and one rose on each side in the waist, until the two black

hills of water towered above us for fully twenty feet. Then they

leaned toward each other and fell, their enormous weight threatening

to crush our decks in as if they had been paper. Nothing could be

seen of the hull for a smother of white, except the forecastle-head.

When, after what seemed an age, she slowly lifted out of that

boiling, yeasty whirl, the breakwater was gone, and so was all the

planking of the bulwarks on both sides from poop to forecastle break.

Nothing was left but to heave to, and I, for one, firmly believed

that we should never get her up into the wind. However, we were bound

to try; and watching the smooth (between two sets of seas), the helm

was put hard down and the mizen hauled out. Round she came swiftly

enough, but just as she presented her broadside to the sea, up rose

a monstrous wave. Over, over she went--over until the third ratline

of the lee rigging was under water; that is to say, the lee rail

was full six feet under the sea. One hideous tumult prevailed, one

dazzling glare of foaming water surrounded us; but I doubt whether

any of us thought of anything but how long we could hold our breath.

Had she been less deeply loaded she must have capsized. As it was,

she righted again, and came up into the wind still afloat. But never

before or since have I seen a vessel behave like that hove to. We

were black and blue with being banged about, our arms strained almost

to uselessness by holding on. Beast as she was, the strength of her

hull was amazing, or she would have been racked to splinters: for in

that awful sea she rolled clean to windward until she filled herself,

then canted back again until she lay nearly on her beam-ends; and

this she did continually for three days and nights. At the first

of the trouble the cabin had been gutted so that neither officers

nor passengers had a dry thread, and of course all cooking was

impossible. I saw the skipper chasing his sextant (in its box) around

the saloon-table, which was just level with the water which was

making havoc with everything. And not a man of us for’ard but had

some pity to spare for the one woman passenger (going out with her

little boy to join her husband), who, we knew, was crouching in the

corner of an upper bunk in her cabin, hugging her child to her bosom,

and watching with fascinated eyes the sullen wash of the dark water

that plunged back and forth across the sodden strip of carpet.

In spite of all these defects in the ship, she reached Lyttelton in

safety at last; and I, with more thankfulness than I knew how to

express, was released from her, and took my place as an officer on

board a grand old ship three times her size. Unfortunately for me,

my sea experience of her extended only over one short passage to

Adelaide, where she was laid up for sale; and of my next ship I have

spoken at length elsewhere, so I may not enlarge upon her behaviour

here. After that I had the good fortune to get a berth as second

mate of the _Harbinger_, to my mind one of the noblest specimens of

modern shipbuilding that ever floated. She was lofty--210 feet from

water-line to skysail truck--and with all her white wings spread,

thirty-one mighty sails, she looked like a mountain of snow. She was

built of steel, and in every detail was as perfect as any sailor

could wish. For all her huge bulk she was as easy to handle as any

ten-ton yacht--far easier than some--and in any kind of weather her

docility was amazing. No love-sick youth was ever more enamoured of

his sweetheart than I of that splendid ship. For hours of my watch

below I have sat perched upon the martingale guys under the jib-boom,

watching with all a lover’s complacency the stately sheer of her stem

through the sparkling sea, and dreamily noting the delicate play of

rainbow tints through and through the long feather of spray that ran

unceasingly up the stem, and, curling outward, fell in a diamond

shower upon the blue surface below. She was so clean in the entrance

that you never saw a foaming spread of broken water ahead, driven in

front by the vast onset of the hull. She parted the waves before her

pleasantly, as an arrow the air; graciously, as if loath to disturb

their widespread solitude.

But it needed a tempest to show her “way” in its perfection. Like

the _Wanderer_, but in a grand and gracious fashion, she seemed to

claim affinity with the waves, and they in their wildest tumult met

her as if they too knew and loved her. She was the only ship I ever

knew or heard of that would “stay” under storm-staysails, reefed

topsails, and a reefed foresail in a gale of wind. In fact, I never

saw anything that she would not do that a ship should do. She was so

truly a child of the ocean that even a bungler could hardly mishandle

her; she _would_ work well in spite of him. And, lastly, she would

_steer_ when you could hardly detect an air out of the heavens, with

a sea like a mirror, and the sails hanging apparently motionless.

The men used to say she would go a knot with only the quartermaster

whistling at the wheel for a wind.

Then for my sins I shipped before the mast in an equally large iron

ship bound for Calcutta. She was everything that the _Harbinger_

was not--an ugly abortion that the sea hated. When I first saw her

(after I had shipped), I asked the cook whether she wasn’t a razeed

steamboat--I had almost said an adapted loco-boiler. When he told

me that this was only her second voyage I had to get proof before

I could believe him. And as her hull was, so were her sails. They

looked like a job lot scared up at ship-chandlers’ sales, and hung

upon the yards like rags drying. Our contempt for her was too great

for words. Of course she was under water while there was any wind

to speak of, and her motions were as strange as those of a seasick

pig. A dredger would have beaten her at sailing; a Medway barge, with

her Plimsoll mark in the main-rigging, would have been ten times as

comfortable. Somehow we buttocked her out in 190 days with 2500 tons

of salt in her hold, and again my fortunate star intervened to get me

out of her and into a better ship as second mate.

Of steamers I have no authority to speak, although they, too, have

their ways, quite as non-understandable as sailing-ships, and

complicated, too, by the additional entity of the engines within.

But everything that floats and is built by man, from the three-log

catamaran of the Malabar coast, or the balsa of Brazil, up to the

latest leviathan, has a way of its own, and that way is certainly, in

all its variations, past finding out.

SEA ETIQUETTE

Nothing is more loudly regretted by the praisers of old times than

the gradual disappearance of etiquette under the stress and burden

of these bustling days, and nowhere is the decay of etiquette more

pronounced than at sea. Romance persists because until machinery

can run itself humanity must do so, and where men and women live

romance cannot die. But were it not for the Royal Navy, with its

perfect discipline and unbroken traditions, etiquette at sea must

without doubt perish entirely, and that soon. Such fragments of it as

still survive in the Merchant Service are confined to sailing-ships,

those beautiful visions that are slowly disappearing one by one

from off the face of the deep. Take, for instance, the grand old

custom so full of meaning of “saluting the deck.” The poop or raised

after-deck of a ship over which floated the national flag was

considered to be always pervaded by the presence of the Sovereign,

and, as the worshipper of whatever rank removes his hat upon entering

a church, so from the Admiral to the powder-monkey every member

of the ship’s company as he set foot upon the poop “saluted the

deck”--the invisible presence. As the division between men-of-war

and merchantmen widened so the practice weakened in the latter, and

only now survives in the rigidly enforced practice of every person

below the rank of Captain or mate coming up on to the poop by the lee

side. And among the officers the practice is also observed according

to rank, for with the Captain on deck the chief mate takes the lee

side. But since in steamers there is often no lee side, the custom in

them has completely died out. To etiquette also belongs the strict

observance of the rule in all vessels of tacking “Sir” on to every

reply to an officer, or the accepted synonym for his position to a

tradesman who is a petty officer, as “Boss” for boatswain, “Chips”

for carpenter, “Sails” for sailmaker, and “Doctor” for cook. A

woeful breach of etiquette is committed by the Captain who, coming

on deck while one of his mates is carrying out some manœuvre, takes

upon himself to give orders direct to the men. It is seldom resented

by junior officers for obvious reasons, but the chief mate would

probably retire to another part of the vessel at once with the remark

that it was “only one man’s work.”

In many cases etiquette and discipline are so closely interwoven that

it is hard to know where one leaves off and the other begins, but

in all such cases observance is strictly enforced as being one of

the few remaining means whereby even a simulacrum of discipline is

maintained in undermanned and oversparred sailing-ships--such as the

repetition of every order given by the hearer, the careful avoidance

of any interference by one man with another’s work in the presence of

an officer, and the preservation of each officer’s rightful attitude

toward those under his charge and his superiors. Thus during the

secular work of the day, work, that is, apart from handling the ship,

the mate gives his orders to the boatswain, who sees them carried

out. Serious friction always arises when during any operation the

mate comes between the boatswain and his gang, unless, as sometimes

happens, the boatswain be hopelessly incompetent.

In the private life of the ship every officer’s berth is his house,

sacred, inviolable, wherein none may enter without his invitation.

And in a case of serious dereliction of duty or disqualification it

becomes his prison. “Go to your room, sir,” is a sentence generally

equivalent to professional ruin, since a young officer’s future lies

in the hollow of his Commander’s hand. The saloon is free to officers

only at meal-times, not a common parlour wherein they may meet for

chat and recreation, except in port with the Captain ashore. And

as it is “aft” so in its degree is it “forrard.” In some ships the

carpenter has a berth to himself and a workshop besides, into which

none may enter under pain of instant wrath--and “Chips” is not a man

to be lightly offended. But in most cases all the petty officers

berth together in an apartment called by courtesy the “half-deck,”

although it seldom resembles in a remote degree the dingy, fœtid

hole that originally bore that name. Very dignified are the petty

officers, gravely conscious of their dignity, and sternly set upon

the due maintenance of their rightful status as the backbone of

the ship’s company. Such a grave breach of etiquette as an “A.B.”

entering their quarters, with or without invitation, is seldom heard

of, and quite as infrequent are the occasions when an officer does

so. In large ships, where six or seven apprentices are carried, an

apartment in a house on deck is set apart for their sole occupation,

and the general characteristic of such an abode is chaos--unless,

indeed, there should be a senior apprentice of sufficient stability

to preserve order, which there seldom is. These “boys’ houses” are

bad places for a youngster fresh from school, unless a conscientious

Captain or chief mate should happen to be at the head of affairs and

make it his business to give an eye to the youngsters’ proceedings

when off duty. Of course etiquette may be looked for in vain here,

unless it be the etiquette of “fagging” in its worst sense.

The men’s quarters, always called the forecastle, even when a more

humane shipowner than usual has relegated the forecastle proper to

its rightful use as lockers for non-perishable stores and housed

his men in a building on deck, is always divided longitudinally in

half. The port or mate’s watch live on the port side, the starboard

or second mate’s watch on the starboard side. To this rule there is

no exception. And here we have etiquette _in excelsis_. Although

the barrier between the two sides is usually of the flimsiest and

often quite imaginary in effect, it is a wall of separation with

gates guarded and barred. The visitor from one side to the other,

whatever his excuse, approaches humbly, feeling ill at ease until

made welcome. And from dock to dock it is an unheard-of thing for any

officer save the Captain to so much as _look_ into the forecastle.

Of course, exceptional circumstances do arise, such as a general

outbreak of recalcitrancy, but the occasion must be abnormal for

such a breach of etiquette to be made. Some Captains very wisely

make it their duty to go the round of the ship each morning, seeing

that everything is as it should be, and these enter the forecastle

as a part of their examination. But this is quite the exception

to the general rule, and is always felt to be more or less of an

infringement of immemorial right.

In what must be called the social life of the forecastle, although

it is commonly marked by an utter absence of social observances,

there are several well-defined rules of etiquette which persist in

spite of all other changes. One must not lock his chest at sea. As

soon as the last landsman has left the ship, unlock the “donkey,”

throw the key ostentatiously into the till, and, letting the lid

fall, seat yourself upon it, and light your pipe. It is a Masonic

sign of good-fellowship, known and read of all men, that you are

a “Sou’ Spainer” indeed, at home again. The first time that the

newly assembled crew sit down gipsy fashion to a meal (for tables

are seldom supplied), there may be one, usually a boy, who fails

to remove his cap. Then does the nearest man’s hand seek the

“bread-barge” for a whole biscuit, generally of tile-like texture

and consistency. Grasping it by spreading his fingers all over its

circumference, the mentor brings it down crushingly upon the covered

head of the offender, who is thus initiated, as it were, to the fact

that he must “show respect to his grub,” as the term goes. But often

when the commons have been exceptionally short or bad an old seaman

will deliberately put on his cap again with the remark “’Tain’t wuth

it.” If a man wants to smoke while a meal is in progress let him

go outside, unless he desires deliberately to raise a storm. And

when on the first day of serving out stores a man has been induced

to undertake the onerous duty of dividing to each one his weekly

portion--“whacking out”--gross indeed must be his carelessness or

unfairness before any sufferer will raise a protest. It used to be

the practice to load the boys or ordinary seamen (a grade between

“A.B.” and boy) with all the menial service of the forecastle, such

as food-fetching, washing up utensils, scrubbing, &c. But a juster

and wiser plan has been borrowed from the Navy, whereby each man

takes in rotation a week as “cook of the mess.” He cooks nothing, the

“Doctor” will take care of that, but he is the servant of his house

for that week, responsible for its due order and cleanliness. The

boys are usually kept out of the forecastle altogether, and berthed

with the petty officers, a plan which has with some advantages grave

drawbacks. One curious old custom deserves passing notice. Upon a

vessel’s arrival in ports where it is necessary to anchor, it is

usual to set what is called an “anchor-watch” the first night. All

hands take part in this for one hour each, or should do so, but that

sometimes there are too few and sometimes too many. As soon as the

order is given to “pick for anchor-watch” an old hand draws a rude

circle on the deck, which he subdivides into as many sections as

there are men. Then one man retires while all the rest come forward

and make each man his private mark in a section. When all have

contributed, the excluded one (whose mark has been made for him by

deputy) is called in and solemnly rubs out mark after mark, the first

to be rubbed out giving its owner the first hour’s watch, and so on.

Nothing has been said about etiquette in the Royal Navy, because

there it is hardly ever to be distinguished from disciplinary rule.

Nor has allusion been more than casually made to steamships, whose

routine excludes etiquette, having no more room for it than it has

for seamanship, except upon rare occasions.

WAVES

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