MISCELLANEOUS DETAILS.

At this point of our remarks a word or two may be offered on the general

subject of inside finish to farm houses, which may be applicable more or

less to any one, or all of the designs that may come under our

observation; therefore what is here said, may be applied at large.

Different sections of the United States have their own several _local_

notions, or preferences as to the mode of finish to their houses and

out-buildings, according to climate, education, or other circumstances.

In all these matters neither taste, fashion, nor climate should be

arbitrary. The manner of finish may be various, without any departure

from truth or propriety--always keeping in mind the object for which it

is intended. The _material_ for a country house should be _strong_, and

_durable_, and the work simple in its details, beyond that for either

town or suburban houses. It should be _strong_, for the reason that the

interior of the farm house is used for purposes of industry, in

finishing up and perfecting the labors of the farm; labors indispensable

too, and in amount beyond the ordinary housekeeping requirements of a

family who have little to do but merely to live, and make themselves

comfortable. The material should be _durable_, because the distance at

which the farm house is usually located from the residences of building

mechanics, renders it particularly troublesome and expensive to make

repairs, and alterations. The work should be _simple_, because cheaper

in the first place, in construction, and finish; quite as appropriate

and satisfactory in appearance; and demanding infinitely less labor and

pains to care for, and protect it afterward. Therefore all mouldings,

architraves, _chisel_-work, and gewgawgery in interior finish should be

let alone in the living and daily occupied rooms of the house. If, to a

single parlor, or _spare_ bedchamber a little _ornamental_ work be

permitted, let even that be in moderation, and just enough to teach the

active mistress and her daughters what a world of scrubbing and elbow

work they have saved themselves in the enjoyment of a plainly-finished

house, instead of one full of gingerbread work and finery. None but the

initiated can tell the affliction that _chiseled_ finishing entails on

housekeepers in the spider, fly, and other insect lodgment which it

invites--frequently the cause of more annoyance and _daily_ disquietude

in housekeeping, because unnecessary, than real griefs from which we may

not expect to escape. Bases, casings, sashes, doors--all should be

plain, and painted or stained a quiet _russet_ color--a color natural to

the woods used for the finish, if it can be, showing, in their wear, as

little of dust, soiling, and fly dirt as possible. There is no poetry

about common housekeeping. Cooking, house-cleaning, washing, scrubbing,

sweeping, are altogether matter-of-fact duties, and usually considered

_work_, not recreation; and these should all be made easy of

performance, and as seldom to be done as possible; although the first

item always was, and always _will_ be, and the last item _should_ be, an

every-day vocation for _somebody_; and the manner of inside finish to a

house has a great deal to do with all these labors.

In a stone, or brick house, the inside walls should be firred off for

plastering. This may be done either by "plugging," that is, driving a

plug of wood strongly into the mortar courses, into which the firring

should be nailed, or by laying a strip of thin board in the mortar

course, the entire length of each wall. This is better than _blocks_

laid in for such purpose, because it is effectually _bound_ by the

stone, or brick work; whereas, a block may get loose by shrinking, but

the nails which hold the firring to the plug, or to the thin strip of

board will split and _wedge_ it closer to the mason work of the outside

wall. This is an important item. It makes close work too, and leaves no

room for rats, mice, or other vermin; and as it admits a _space_--no

matter how thin--so that no outside damp from the walls can communicate

into, or through the inner plastering, it answers all purposes. The

inside, and partition walls should be of coarse, strong mortar, _floated

off_ as smoothly as may be, not a _hard finish_, which is fine, and

costly; and then papered throughout for the better rooms, and the

commonly-used rooms whitewashed. Paper gives a most comfortable look to

the rooms, more so than paint, and much less expensive, while nothing is

so sweet, tidy, and cheerful to the _working_ rooms of the house as a

_lime_ wash, either white, or softened down with some agreeable tint,

such as _light_ blue, green, drab, fawn, or russet, to give the shade

desired, and for which every _professional_ painter and whitewasher in

the vicinity, can furnish a proper recipe applicable to the place and

climate. On such subjects we choose to prescribe, rather than to play

the apothecary by giving any of the thousand and one recipes extant, for

the composition.

Our remarks upon the strength and durability of _material_ in

house-building do not apply exclusively to brick and stone. Wood is

included also; and of this, there is much difference in the kind. Sound

_white_ oak, is, perhaps the best material for the heavy frame-work of

any house or out-building, and when to be had at a moderate expense, we

would recommend it in preference to any other. If _white_ oak cannot be

had, the other varieties of oak, or chesnut are the next best. In

_light_ frame-timbers, such as studs, girts, joists, or rafters, oak is

inclined to spring and warp, and we would prefer hemlock, or chesnut,

which holds a nail equally as well, or, in its absence, pine, (which

holds a nail badly,) whitewood, or black walnut. The outside finish to a

wooden house, may be _lighter_ than in one of stone or brick. The wood

work on the outside of the latter should always be heavy, and in

character with the walls, giving an air of firmness and stability to the

whole structure. No elaborate carving, or beadwork should be permitted

on the outside work of a country house at all; and only a sufficient

quantity of ornamental _tracery_ of any kind, to break the monotony of a

plainness that would otherwise give it a formal, or uncouth expression,

and relieve it of what some would consider a pasteboard look. A farm

house, in fact, of any degree, either cheap or expensive, should wear

the same appearance as a well-dressed person of either sex; so that a

stranger, not looking at them for the purpose of inspecting their garb,

should, after an interview, be unable to tell what particular sort of

dress they wore, so perfectly in keeping was it with propriety.

In the design now under discussion, a cellar is made under the whole

body of the house; and this cellar is a _shallow_ one, so far as being

sunk into the ground is concerned, say 5-1/2 feet, leaving 2-1/2 feet of

cellar wall above ground--8 feet in all. A part of the wall above ground

should be covered by the excavated earth, and sloped off to a level with

the surrounding surface. A commodious, well-lighted, and well-ventilated

cellar is one of the most important apartments of the farm house. It

should, if the soil be compact, be well drained from some point or

corner within the walls into a lower level outside, to which point

within, the whole floor surface should incline, and the bottom be

floored with water-lime cement. This will make it hard, durable, and

dry. It may then be washed and scrubbed off as easily as an upper floor.

If the building site be high, and in a gravelly, or sandy soil, neither

drain nor flooring will be required. The cellar may be used for the

storage of root crops, apples, meats, and household vegetables. A

partitioned room will accommodate either a summer or a winter dairy, if

not otherwise provided, and a multitude of conveniences may be made of

it in all well arranged farmeries. But in all cases the cellar should be

well lighted, ventilated, and dry. Even the ash-house and smoke-house

may be made in it with perfect convenience, by brick or stone

partitions, and the smoke-house flue be carried up into one of the

chimney flues above, and thus make a more snug and compact arrangement

than to have separate buildings for those objects. A wash-room, in

which, also, the soap may be made, the tallow and lard tried up, and

other extraordinary labor when fire heat is to be used, may properly be

made in a cellar, particularly when on a sloping ground, and easy of

access to the ground level on one side. But, as a general rule, such

room is better on a level with the main floor of the dwelling, and there

are usually sufficient occupations for the cellar without them.

All cellar walls should be at least 18 inches thick, for even a wooden

house, and from that to 2 feet for a stone or brick one, and well laid

in strong lime-mortar. Unmortared cellar walls are frequently laid under

wooden buildings, and _pointed_ with lime-mortar inside; but this is

sometimes dug out by rats, and is apt to crumble and fall out otherwise.

A _complete_ cellar wall should be thoroughly laid in mortar.

[Illustration: FARM HOUSE. Pages 101-102.]

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