(CONCLUSION.)
_FROM THE RIVER TANA TO NAIROBI._
Arrival at the Tana river—A visit to M’biri—Crossing the
Tana—Smallpox—I give Ramathani a fright—Peculiar method of
transporting goods across the river practised by the Maranga—Kati
drowned—The safari across—M’biri—Disposal of the sheep—We resume
the march—The Maragua once more—The Thika-Thika—The swamps—Kriger’s
Farm—Nairobi.
Early the next morning we sallied forth from our tents and spent an
hour and a half in the water of the brook, getting the sheep across.
They were unable to face the stream, and each separate animal required
to be passed across from hand to hand, the labour involved being very
great. We then went on to the Tana and camped beside the ford. In the
afternoon we got our Alpine rope out, and with considerable trouble and
some risk succeeded in getting one end of it across the river and made
fast to a tree on the opposite bank, Jumbi with two or three other men
and myself swimming across the river for the purpose.
It was not until I was actually in the water that I realized the
tremendous power of the current. We had to go a long way up stream
before plunging in, as the swift current carried us rapidly down river,
and, but for this precaution, would have swept us past the only
landing-place on the other side. This made rather a long swim of it. I
was horribly afraid of the presence of crocodiles, but fortunately they
were conspicuous by their absence.
When at last, after many failures, we had got the rope across, it was
not of much assistance, as the water was too deep for the porters,
and the animals would not face it alone on any consideration. Another
circumstance which added to our difficulties was there being only one
landing-place on the opposite bank, a little gully about four feet wide
in the steep bank, made by the hippopotamus who formerly came ashore
here to feed, and afterwards widened by natives using the ford. If by
mischance anybody had been swept past this landing-place they would
almost certainly have been drowned, as there was no other place to land
for a long way down the river.
Failing a bridge, our chances of getting across the Tana for another
month were very slender, and as I was anxious to reach Mr. Hall’s
station at M’biri in order to get a few newspapers, some tobacco, and
provisions, I sent word to the chief’s son, Koranja, that I required
a couple of guides. These he had great difficulty in procuring, the
natives declaring that it was impossible to cross the river. However,
on the promise of a heavy reward of cloth, I prevailed upon two of the
Maranga natives to accompany me. We three then swam the Tana together,
with my clothing done up in small bundles on our heads. I was unable
to get my rifle across, so I went without it. Once on the other side,
I dressed as speedily as possible, and we set off at a good pace for
M’biri.
We reached the Marathwa, another fair-sized river, an hour later, which
necessitated stripping again. The crossing safely accomplished we
resumed our apparel, and set off once more, reaching the station at
midday, after a couple of hours’ rough tramp over the hills.
Mr. and Mrs. Hall were away shooting for a day or two, but Captain
Longfield, who was in charge of the troops, made me very welcome. He
invited me to stay with him until Mr. Hall’s return, an invitation I
gladly accepted. I sent the two guides back to the camp with a supply
of newspapers and provisions, and then sat down with Captain Longfield
to one of the most satisfactory luncheons I have ever enjoyed. It was
such a pleasing change to eat once more from earthenware plates, with a
real white tablecloth and glass tumblers on the table, and a properly
furnished cruet-stand. It is only after one has been separated for a
time from the minor conveniences of civilization that one discovers how
much they contribute to one’s comfort.
One of the most peculiar effects of our late experiences was noticeable
when I retired to rest that night. It was the new and strange sense of
security. It seemed so utterly unbelievable that I could go to sleep
and sleep as soundly as I liked, without fear of being rudely disturbed
by hostile natives, or by prowling beasts of prey. It was positively
difficult to realize at first.
On the afternoon of the second day of my stay at the station Mr. and
Mrs. Hall returned. Mr. Hall had done wonders with the station during
the short time (about two months) that he had been established there.
A very large and solid stone wall surrounded the various buildings
and offices, and a ditch had been dug outside, making it, perched as
it was on the summit of a hill, a very strong and secure position.
The huts were lofty and well built, and in the centre of the compound
a large and handsome flagstaff carried the flag of the East African
Protectorate.
Next morning I returned to our camp on the Tana, where I found that
El Hakim and George had succeeded in getting a good many of the sheep
across, having employed a number of the Maranga to swim them over, two
men to one sheep—a very slow process at best. The river had fallen a
few inches, but it would need to fall at least another foot before the
men could attempt the passage with their loads.
The day after, as the river was still falling, we got the remainder of
the sheep to the other side. Almost before they were across, the river
commenced to rise again, and consequently we could not attempt to move
the cattle or loads.
In the afternoon about seventy Wakamba, driven northwards by famine,
came to the opposite bank of the river and attempted to cross over to
Maranga by means of our rope. They were extremely emaciated, and so
weak that three or four of the first dozen were washed away from the
rope and drowned. Suddenly the Maranga who were watching them raised a
shrill cry of “Ndui! Ndui!” (small-pox), and rushing at those of the
Wakamba who had already landed, they drove them into the water and
across the river again. It seemed hard to repulse the poor starving
wretches, but the Maranga have already suffered so heavily from the
small-pox that they had no wish to repeat the experience. There
were quite a dozen of the Wakamba in an advanced stage of confluent
small-pox. From our camp we could hear them moaning and wailing all
night, for several nights. In the daytime they used to come down to the
only place at which they could reach the water, a large flat rock a
little way up stream, which was just awash, where they would sit for
hours laving themselves with the cool water.
Three days later, on November 22nd, we found that the river had gone
down some six inches, and we made a determined effort to get the loads
and cattle across.
Stripping to my shirt, I swam across the river to superintend
operations at the landing-place on the opposite bank, I took four or
five men, and we stood in the water up to our breasts, under the bank,
where the current was a little less violent, and took the loads from
the porters, who were exhausted by their struggle with the powerful
current, as they brought them across. Young Koranja annoyed me by
bringing my camera across under water, but then he was not very tall,
and consequently received a ducking every time the rope surged. If
he had not had my camera, I should have been highly amused at his
predicament.
The better to shout instructions across the river, I climbed a large
tree that grew on the bank, its topmost branches hanging out over the
water for some yards. I found such a comfortable seat in the fork,
about twelve feet above the surface of the water, that I stayed there
for awhile to rest after the laborious work at the landing-place, and
also to get a bird’s-eye view of all that was going on.
Presently I heard some one swimming, with much puffing and blowing,
down the river, and almost underneath me. Peering through the leafy
screen that surrounded me, I saw that Ramathani, though evidently in
mortal terror, had at last faced the river, and was swimming slowly and
cautiously down stream to the landing-place. The current was bringing
him directly under my perch, though he had not observed me, and I
derived much amusement from the anxious expression on his usually
calm and expressionless visage. As he passed underneath something
suddenly impelled me to jump out of the tree, and I did so, landing
with a terrific splash right upon my unfortunate servitor. He gave a
fearful shriek, which was almost instantaneously stifled in a gurgle
as he disappeared beneath the surface. When he came up again his face
wore such a look of terror that I half repented of the joke. The way
his face changed when he found me swimming quietly by his side, smiling
cheerfully, was a perfect study in expression.
“Oh, it was you, Bwana?” he gasped out. “I thought it was an afreet”
(devil) “or a kiboko” (hippopotamus).
I then challenged him to a race across the river, but he declined,
though ordinarily he was a good swimmer. He had had enough of the water
for one day, he said.
When I got down to the landing-place, I found that most of the loads
were across, our men having been reinforced by some of the Maranga.
These natives disdained the rope, and, strange to say, though many of
them could not swim, they could carry a 60 lb. load across a ford 6
feet deep, though their own height rarely exceeded 5 feet 6 inches, and
usually a great deal less. They surmounted the difficulty in a rather
ingenious manner, which at the same time required no small skill.
They held the loads over their heads the full length of their arms, and
then walked into the river, some little distance up-stream. When they
got out of their depth _they walked on the bottom_, giving a jump which
brought their heads above water, when they wanted to breathe. The heavy
load held above their heads enabled them to keep steady, in an upright
position, in the swift current. They consequently crossed the river in
a series of jumps, the current meanwhile carrying them down stream,
while between the jumps they walked a step or two towards the other
side. It was a very curious sight from the bank to see a large box or
a rolled-up tent, clasped by two black hands, apparently crossing the
river of its own accord. Our own men would not attempt this method at
any price.
The loads were got across before midday, but it was extremely hard and
hazardous work, one of our best men, an N’yamwezi named Kati, being
unfortunately washed away and drowned.
In the afternoon, all the loads being across, George and I and a dozen
of the men unshipped the rope, and taking it further up-stream, we
prepared to get the cattle and donkeys across. After chasing away the
small-pox patients, we took up our station on the flat rock already
mentioned, as it was the most suitable place that we could find, at
which to land the cattle. By means of our old device of tying a rope
round the necks of the animals and hauling them bodily across, we
safely accomplished the task, though the labour was enormous. Several
of the cows were nearly drowned, and after we had hauled them out of
the water, lay on the rock to all appearance dead. Some one suggested
that perhaps artificial respiration would facilitate their recovery,
but as neither George or I knew how to perform artificial respiration
on a cow, we were unable to put it to the proof. They eventually
recovered without such aid, and rising slowly and with difficulty they
walked away, though I must confess that they were very groggy on their
pins.
At nine o’clock next morning, having thus, after a delay of only eight
days, safely negotiated the Tana, we started on our final march to
Nairobi. We crossed the Marathwa below M’biri, where it was breast deep
and very swift, camping on the opposite bank. We stopped there four
days, during which time we sold the sheep to some Somalis who had a
store just outside the Government station.
El Hakim went on a visit to Mr. Hall, and stayed a day or two with him.
I took to my blankets on the third day with a slight touch of fever,
which, considering that I had practically lived in the water for four
days, was not surprising.
On the morning of November 27th, we broke camp and resumed our march,
exceedingly thankful that we were no longer handicapped on the march
by the presence of the sheep. I was still rather shaky after my touch
of fever, so I rode the big mule for the first time since leaving the
Green Camp on the Waso Nyiro. The next day we reached the Maragua,
where we found a rough bridge, which had been constructed by Captain
Skene, who was on his way to M’biri to relieve Captain Longfield. The
latter had been ordered to Kismayu to take part in the Ogaden Somali
Expedition which was to avenge Major Jenner’s murder. We crossed
safely, and camped on the other side. Three cows were stolen during
the afternoon by the A’kikuyu, but we sent Jumbi and half a dozen men
immediately in pursuit, and they recovered them without difficulty.
Four days later we reached the river Thika-Thika. Congoni once more
appeared on the scene, and we were able to shoot several for food, and
I also secured a roan antelope, the first we had seen during the trip.
Besides congoni there were numbers of zebras, wildebeeste, wart-hog,
grantei, and thompsonei; and George and I, taking turns with the
shot-gun, managed to secure some guinea-fowl, and occasionally a wild
duck.
Very heavy rain the night before we reached the Thika-Thika delayed us
a little. We reached the river at midday and found it full of water,
but the current was comparatively sluggish. We saw a couple of hippo,
and any number of crocodiles.
At a place where a fallen tree projected some way over the water we
constructed a rude bridge, resting the centre of the structure upon a
small island in the stream. It was not beautiful to look upon, neither
was it over strong; but it sufficed, and during the afternoon the whole
safari crossed by its means. The cattle were driven further down the
river to a spot where the banks shelved somewhat, and they were then
swum across, luckily without interference from any too inquisitive
crocodiles.
The next day was George’s turn to have a touch of fever, which, though
slight, made him very uncomfortable. We were now entering a very marshy
piece of country, traversed by numerous rivers and streams, which
drained into the Athi River.
Congoni were again numerous, and we were able to shoot sufficient meat
to feed the men. The congoni is remarkably tenacious of life, one beast
in particular giving me a lot of trouble. I put two ·303 soft-nosed
bullets into it; and although one hind leg was broken, and it was also
badly wounded in the shoulder, it made off at a good speed. Taking the
Martini, I followed it, and, when it once more stopped, I put a Martini
bullet into it from behind, at a hundred-yards’ range. The bullet
struck it in the hind quarters, and ploughed its way through almost the
whole length of the animal’s body. The beast was unable to advance, but
still kept its feet; and as I was unwilling to waste another cartridge
upon it, I walked up to it and threw it down by seizing its horns and
jerking its head sharply sideways, but not until its throat was cut did
it expire.
On December 5th we reached a papyrus swamp, about two hundred yards
wide, but apparently continuing indefinitely east and west, so that we
could not march round it. The men, therefore, were sent to cut a path
through it, and by laying the cut reeds and a quantity of branches of
trees across the roots a precarious roadway was constructed, perfectly
practicable for the men and loads, but impossible for cattle. Jumbi,
who was sent out prospecting for a suitable place to get the cattle
across, returned in the evening, having discovered a place some miles
away, which he thought they might safely negotiate. Accordingly,
before sunrise next morning, he was sent with the cattle to make the
attempt, while the porters and loads crossed by the temporary path we
had constructed the day before. It was rather ticklish work, as in some
places there was over six feet of water under the reeds, we having to
depend for support on the elasticity of the cut reeds laid transversely
across the roots, the weaker places having been strengthened by the
addition of branches and brushwood well trodden down.
Jumbi was perfectly successful in getting the cattle across, and they
were on the other side of the swamp and opposite us some time before
all the men had crossed; but we were all across by ten o’clock, and,
resuming our nether garments, we proceeded. In an hour we had reached
a narrow river, flowing swiftly between two upright walls of rock. A
mile up-stream we discovered a crossing-place at a spot just above a
magnificent waterfall. This fall was quite 100 feet deep, and the water
foamed and splashed into one of the most beautiful glens imaginable.
We did not stop to admire the scenery. Personally, I was perfectly
willing to exchange the prettiest bit of scenery thereabouts for a
sight of the Nairobi Post Office.
After we had left the river a few miles behind, we were confronted by
another wretched papyrus swamp. Yesterday’s experience was repeated, a
road having to be constructed in precisely the same manner. It was not
finished till sunset, so we camped for the night. It rained hard in the
evening, and during the night the mosquitos drove us nearly frantic.
The next morning we crossed the swamp. It was rather deeper than the
other, and we had to strip to the “altogether” in order to get across;
the reeds often giving way under our weight, letting us down with a
splash into the ice-cold, dirty water. We got across, however, without
any serious mishap, and resuming our clothing we again went on.
Three quarters of an hour later we struck yet another swamp. Off came
our clothes once more, and we waded it breast deep. The water was
very cold, and unspeakably stagnant and filthy. It took us an hour to
get across. Half an hour’s march further on, another swamp appeared.
Once more we had to strip and wade. This one was not so cold, as the
sun was by this time well up, and moreover the water was cleaner; but
there were a lot of horrible flies, like horseflies, which bit most
ferociously, and attacked every unprotected portion of our anatomy,
drawing blood at every bite. However, that was the last of the swamps,
and by four o’clock in the afternoon we reached our old camp near
Kriger’s farm, only seven miles from Nairobi.
We camped for the night, and the following morning George and I started
for Nairobi. We left El Hakim in camp, as he wished to go over and
see Kriger during the morning. George and myself, with the bulk of
the men, therefore started on our seven-mile tramp. On the way we
critically examined each other, and a more ragged pair of scarecrows
one would not wish to see. The sole of one of my boots had parted
from the upper and flapped as I walked, while George lacked a sole
altogether on his left boot, and was walking on his sock, which soon
wore through, causing him so much inconvenience as to materially impede
our progress.
Such trifles, however, were unable to damp our ardour as we tramped
along in the direction of Nairobi. Each well remembered spot recalling
some incident or other. Here was the place where I fell into the river
the second night out. Further on was the clump of trees where I shot
the guinea-fowl, and beyond that, again, was the game-pit which had
bidden fair to put a summary end to my career over six months before.
What hardships they seemed at the time, though subsequent events had
dwarfed them into insignificance. Even our stirring experiences on
the Waso Nyiro and our long weeks of anxiety in Kikuyuland seemed
to suddenly recede into the limbo of the past. Everything else was
forgotten in the intoxicating thought that at last we were almost home,
and as we approached nearer to Nairobi a feeling of elation impossible
to describe took possession of us. Pain, difficulties, anxieties—all
were momentarily forgotten. Our emotions were shared by the men, and
when the first galvanized roof appeared on the horizon a cheer broke
forth, and we hurried forward at increased speed.
Presently the railway station hove in sight, and a locomotive shunting
trucks in the goods-yard sent forth an ear-splitting whistle. Never
was there such a musical sound as that erstwhile discordant speech. At
length, to cut a long story short, we arrived, much to the surprise
of our friends, who had heard that we had all been killed in Embe, the
news of the Somali’s disaster having in some mysterious manner filtered
through.
I have only once since experienced such a sense of relief as I felt
on our arrival in Nairobi, and that is now, as I finish this account
of our journey; and my only hope is that it will not have wearied the
reader half as much as it wearied the writer.
INDEX
Abdullah ben Asmani, 12
Abdallah Arahalli, 94
Abdullah ben Selim, death of, 128
Aberdare Range, 3, 338, 342
A’kikuyu, assisted by the, 50;
brawl with the, 60;
return to the, 343;
attempts at theft by the, 344;
sheep stolen by the, 347;
arrest of the chief of the, 348;
steal three cows, 359
Aloes, 135, 160, 333
Ants, attacked by, 113;
red, 158
Asmani ben Selim, 12, 324
Assala, 53
Athi river, 26;
fishing in the, 27, 33, 35;
in flood, 36;
crossing the, 37
Baazi, 53
Baboons, 197, 249, 252
Baobabs, 79
Barri leaves the Somali camp, 276;
is pursued, 277;
is attacked by his pursuers, 277;
and shoots Ismail Robli, 278
Baringo, Lake, 4, 136
Bei Munithu, 84;
treachery of, 298;
insolence of, 316;
repentance of, 329
Bhotan, 94
Bilali, 14, 176
Blood-brotherhood, 84;
ceremony of, 113, 147
Borana country, 235;
people, 235
Buffalo hunt, 151;
herd of, 192;
horns destroyed by hyænas, 296
Burkeneji, nomadic habits of, 163;
first meeting with, 208;
village of, 209;
temerity of women of, 209;
chief of, 210;
belief in their weapons, 223;
dress, 223;
donkeys, 223;
insolence of, 224;
relations of, with the Rendili, 241
Camels, loss of the, 202;
reappearance of, 300
Camp on fire, 171
Cannibals, rumour of, 346
Carl Alexander Falls, 46
Castor-oil plant, 59
Chanjei Hills, 87;
character of people of, 87
Chanler, Mr. William Astor, F.R.G.S., 4, 88, 214, 226, 258, 265, 266
Chanler Falls, 203
Chiggers, 314, 329
“Cinder Heap”, 165
Congoni, 24;
The tenacity of life of, 359
Coja ben Sowah, 12
Crane, crested, 35
Crocodiles, 50, 212, 247;
immense size of, 254
Cumming, Gordon, 308
Dasturi, 331
Date palms, 175
Desertions, 20, 155, 259
Dhurra, 52
Dirito, 82;
arrival at village of, 82;
assists us to drive animals, 132;
treachery of, 298
Docere ben Ali, 12
Doenyo Sabuk, 18, 24;
in sight of once more, 347
Doenyo lol Deika, 136
Doenyo Ebor, 66
Doenyo Egere, 66
Donkeys, 16;
troubles with, 25, 38;
eaten by Wakamba, 137
Doti, measurement of a, 53
Doum palm, description of, 162
El Hakim, meeting with, 2;
and the Tomori people, 86;
robbery of goods of, 116;
experiences with elephants, 142;
shoots a rhinoceros, 185;
bitten by a scorpion, 245;
has a bright idea, 269;
adventure with a lion, 292;
shoots an elephant, 296
Elkonono, the, 315
Elephant, awkward meeting with an, 139;
hunting, 142-146, 296, 303
Elephant’s foot, 301, 310
Elgeyo, 136;
escarpment of, 137
Embe country, description of, 95;
the retreat from, 103;
explanation of reverse in, 110
Euphorbias, 333
Falls on the Tana River, 350
Falls, Chanler, 203
Falls, Carl Alexander, 46
Falls, Nairobi, 27
Falls, Sweinfurth, 46
Finlay and Gibbons, Messrs., disaster to, 17, 18, 57
Fire, difficulties with, 31;
camp on, 171;
grass, 188
Foa, Edward, F.R.G.S., 311
Forest, belt round Kenia, 84;
acacia, 90;
of North Kenia, 335
Formosa Bay, 4
Galla-land, 3
Game very numerous, 43;
vast herds of, 150, 172, 191;
scarcity of, 179;
absence of, 201
Game-pit, adventure in a, 21
George joins the expedition, 18;
takes a bath, 26;
sickness of, 33;
narrow escape of, 100;
illness of, 115;
drives hostile Wa’m’thara from camp, 134;
adventure with a rhinoceros, 267;
shoots a rhinoceros, 293
Giraffe hunt, 280, 285
Gilgil, 339
Gnainu, fight at, 118
Grant’s gazelle, good sport with, 294
Green Camp, 162, 188, 293
Gregory, Prof. J. W., D.Sc., 4, 180
Guinea fowl, 206
Hall, Mr., 49, 344
Hamisi ben Abdullah, 12;
death of, 128
Hannington, the late Bishop, 137
Hannington, Lake, 136
Hippopotamus, 54, 255;
an anxious moment, 261, 284, 287
Hohnel, Lieut. Ludwig von, 4, 213
Honey, 53
Hyænas, 296, 331
Igani, noisy reception in, 81
Imbe, entry into, 79;
chief of, 79;
audacious proposal of people of, 80
Impala, 296
Ismail Robli, 9;
appearance of, 93;
character of, 93;
murders N’Dominuki’s nephew, 100;
terror of, 106;
refuses to return to Embe, 113;
camped among the Rendili, 212;
grief of, 217;
letter to Nairobi of, 219;
his invitation, 269;
wounded by Barri, 288
Ivory, troubles of buying, 123, 129
Jamah Mahomet, 9;
refuses to cross M’bu, 57;
visit to, at Munithu, 83;
appearance of, 93;
character of, 93;
wounded, 99;
death of, 100;
burial of, 100
Jenner, Major, murder of, 215
Jombeni Hills, 87
Jora, measurement of, 53
Jumbi ben Aloukeri, 11, 105, 155, 158, 234, 267
Juma, 14, 176
Kamasia, 136
Karanjui, camp at, 84;
fight at, 324
Karama, 147
Kenia, Mount, 34;
first sight of, 66;
again in sight of, 291;
north of, 137
Kibaba, capacity of, 53
Kibuyu, 54
Kilaluma, 43, 343
Kinangop, Mount, 338, 342
Kinuthia, 49-51
Kinyala, song of, 310
Kiongozi, 12
Kirrimar plain, 253
Kitoma, 53
Kolb, Dr., 5, 11;
account of death of, 156
Koranja, 51;
accompanies us, 59;
trepidation of, 62;
bids us farewell, 63;
meeting with, 349
Koromo, meeting with, 104;
makes blood-brotherhood with El Hakim, 113
Kota, 52
Kriger and Knapp, Messrs., 18;
decide to accompany us, 24;
return of, 35
Kriger’s farm, arrival at, 22;
departure from, 25;
return to, 361
Kundu, 53
Kwa-Ngombe, 345
Leeches, 212
Lemoro, 213
Leopard, 35
Lion, number of, 32;
hunt, 156, 279;
El Hakim’s adventure with, 292, 332, 333
Loads, method of carrying, 16
Lokomogo, 213;
present of, 270
Lolokwe, Mount, 136
Longfield, Capt., 353
Lorian, 3, 4;
news of, 246;
the start for, 246;
where is it?, 258;
dissertation on, 265
Loroghi Mountains, 5, 137
Lubo, 213;
immense possessions of, 232
Lykipia plateau, 52, 137
Mahogo, 52
Makono, measurement of, 53
Malwa, 13
Manga, 51;
indisposition of, 56;
greeted by, 349
Marabout stork, 39
Maranga, arrival at, 51;
abundance of food in, 52;
departure from, 59;
return to, 349;
peculiar method of crossing a river of people of, 356
Maragua river, 46;
bridge across the, 47;
return to the, 358
Maragua bean, 53
Marathwa river, 352
Marazuki, death of, 128
Marisi-al-lugwa-Zambo plateau, 204-245
Marlé tribe, 228
Marsabit, 222
Masai, 242, 338
Materu, camp at, 62
Mau escarpment, 137
M’biri, visit to, 352
M’bu, arrival at, 64;
hostility of natives of, 67;
an anxious journey, 71;
the guides desert, 74;
farewell to, 73
Metama, 52;
matindi, 53
Midges, attacked by, 178
Milindi, 31
Milk, method of adulteration of, 54
Mineral spring, 161;
salts, 162
Mogogodo, 181
Mogoroni river, 345
Moravi, route across, 81
Morio trees, 135, 160
“Morning Whiffs,” terrible results of, 39;
further experiences with, 55
M’thara, arrival at, 90;
purchasing food in, 91;
description of camp at, 98;
camp in danger, 104;
getting supplies of food in, 113;
departure from, 148;
bad news from, 297;
return to the camp at, 302;
farewell to, 331
Muhindi, 52
Mules, 19;
accident to one of the, 78
Mumoni Hills, 47
Mumunye, 53
Munipara, 11
Munithu, arrival at, 84;
departure from, 84;
return to, 116;
story of the pillaged goods at, 116;
departure from, 131;
attack on, 319
M’wele, 52
Nairobi, 1, 2, 6, 8, 9;
river, 27;
falls, 27;
the return to, 362
Naivasha, 338
N’dizi, 53
N’Dominuki, chief of M’thara, character of, 89;
declining influence of, 90;
is accused of treachery by the Somalis, 106;
explanation of, 108;
offers himself as guide, 111;
fidelity of, 299
N’doro, 341
Neumann, Mr. A. H., 5;
influence over N’Dominuki of, 89;
acquaintance with Dr. Kolb, 155
Ngare Mussoor, 336
Ngare Nanuki, 337
N’gombe, Mount, 178
Noor Adam, 17;
appearance and character of, 94
Nyemps, 136;
the old men of, 330
Oryx, 183
Papyrus reeds, 26;
swamps, 360, 361
Petrie, Prof. Flinders, 276
Photography under difficulties, 260, 262
Pig, 254
Porters, selecting the, 9
Provisions, selecting the, 8
Python, narrow escape from, 207
Rain, 301, 312
Ramathani, 13, 177, 309;
fright of, 356
Rats, troubled by, 117
Rendili, nomadic habits of, 163;
no signs of, 200;
encampment, 203;
arrival at village of, 211;
chiefs, 213;
flocks, 215;
trading with the, 216;
settlements of the, 221;
appearance and dress of the, 227;
ornaments, 228;
women of the, 228;
fondness for children of the, 229;
propensity to falsehood of the, 231;
small-pox among the, 232, 238;
fighting qualities of the, 235;
love of begging of, 236;
love of tobacco of, 236;
household utensils, 238;
weapons, 239;
saddlery, 239;
courage of the, 240;
dread of the Masai of the, 241;
return to the camp, 268;
fortifying the camp, 273;
burial places, 275;
departure from the, 274
Rendili sheep, 198, 234
Registration of porters, 16
Resarse ben Shokar, 12, 324, 331
Rhinoceros, Lieut, von Hohnel injured by a, 4;
a delicate situation, 28;
encounters with, 34, 45, 149;
pugnacious disposition of, 164;
hunt on mule-back, 173;
hunt, 182;
shot by El Hakim, 185;
shot by author, 186;
hunt, 198;
large numbers of, 250, 253, 257;
adventure with a, 255;
disturbed at night by, 260;
shot by George, 298;
hunt, 295, 341
Rudolph, Lake, 4, 5, 58
Sabaki river, 31
Sadi ben Heri, 11;
death of, 128
Sagana, 45
Salt, failure to procure, 179;
large plain of, 233
Sand rivers, 200, 290
Sand rats, 212
Seton-Karr, Mr., 276
Sirimon river, 337
Sheba, Mount, 164
Sheep, buying from the Rendili, 268;
death of many of the, 314;
the disposal of, 358
“Sherlock Holmes,” 13;
illness of, 340;
death of, 342
Shooting, useful hints on, 146
Skene, Captain, 358
Smallpox, 59, 232, 238, 354
Somali caravan, start of, 17;
news of the, 83;
attacked by the Wa’Embe, 84;
conference with leaders of, 93;
friction with, 141;
meeting with portion of, 201;
disaster to the, 217;
the alarm in the, 271;
the panic in the, 272
Song of Kinyala, 310
Spot, death of, 263
Sulieman, 12;
desertion of, 259
Swahili porters, character of, 7
Sweinfurth Falls, 46
Swamp Camp, 178, 291
Sycamores, 79
Tana river, 4, 45;
the source of the, 343;
flooded, 350;
attempts to cross the, 351, 355;
across the, 357
Teleki, Count Samuel, 4
Thika-Thika river, 17;
crossing the, 42;
building a bridge across the, 359
Thompson, Joseph, F.R.G.S., 3;
description of Kenia by, 66;
description of Masai by, 242, 332, 333
Thorn forest, 88;
terrible experience with thorns, 205
Ticks, abundance of, 28
Tikiti, 53
Tomori people, 85
Trade goods, list of, 15
T’savo river, 31
Turkana people, 222
Uimbe, 52
Viazi, 52
Victoria Nyanza, Lake, 1, 7
Vikwer, 52
Viseli, 132
Wa’Chanjei, visit of the, 316
Wa’Embe, decision to punish the, 94;
plan of attack, 95;
the start, 96;
ambush by the, 98;
the Burkeneji trading with the, 268
Wa’Gnainu, pillage of our goods by the, 116
Wa’Igani, desire to make blood-brotherhood with us, 81
Wa’Imbe, cordial greeting of the, 79;
conference with the, 80;
audacious proposal of the, 80
Wa’kwafi, 136
Wakamba porters, characteristics of, 7
Waller’s gazelle, 205
Wa’Mbu, bad character of the, 57;
hostility of the, 65;
renewed hostility of the, 67;
interview with the chiefs of, 69;
capture of the chiefs of, 69;
farewell to the, 73
Wandorobbo, description of the, 179;
language of the, 181;
guides, 194;
desertion of the guides, 195
Wangwana, 7
WaN’yam-wezi porters, characteristics of, 7
Wargasse, Mount, 136
Waso Nyiro, 3, 4;
tiring march to the, 160;
splendid climate of, 175;
desolate landscape on the, 249;
crossing the, 291;
the source of the, 338
Washenzi, 7
Waterbuck, 184;
capture of young, 292
Wa’Zuka, cordial reception by the, 75
Weapons, list of our, 9, 10
Whistling trees, 332
Witchcraft, 340
Wild dogs, 292
Zanzibar, 7
Zebra, 33, 43, 336, 341
Zuka, entry into, 75;
camp in, 77
Zura, welcome at, 81
THE END.
PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, LIMITED, LONDON AND BECCLES.
[Illustration: PART OF
BRITISH EAST AFRICA
_Longmans, Green & Co. London, New York & Bombay._]
Transcriber’s Notes
pg 223 Changed: I endeavoured to yet near enough
to: I endeavoured to get near enough
pg 316 Changed: A deputation from the Wa-Chanjei
to: A deputation from the Wa’Chanjei
pg 317 Changed: These ball cartidges contained
to: These ball cartridges contained
pg 329 Changed: an experience which once befel
to: an experience which once befell
Errata changes from page xvi have been made in text.