although, during the winter season, they require a much less proportion of
atmospheric humidity, than under the influence of longer days and brighter
light; and conversely, the degree which would be necessary to secure their
welfare in summer, would be fatal to them in winter. An experienced
gardener would tell almost instinctively, at either season, whether a
sufficient supply was present or not; but less experienced cultivators
would need some index, or register, to guide them. Such an index is
afforded by the hygrometer; but most of the kinds of hygrometers are
delicate instruments, and hardly suited for garden use. What is needed in
this case is, not an instrument which requires minute observations and
calculations, but something that will at once indicate the atmospheric
humidity as plainly as the thermometer does the temperature, and which
may be as easily read off and understood. Simmons' hygrometer, recently
introduced to the notice of horticulturists, professes to supply this
desideratum; and though, perhaps, not a sufficiently accurate instrument
for purely scientific purposes, yet, as simply and clearly indicating what
is at least an approximation to the existing degree of atmospheric
humidity, it is to be regarded as a useful garden hygrometer. By it, the
degree of dryness or humidity is indicated on a dial-plate, by means of a
moveable arm resembling the hand of a clock. The dial-plate is marked off
into degrees, expressing the amount of moisture in the air, between what
is observed when the instrument is plunged in water on the one hand, and
exposed to excessive dryness on the other. As my own experience of this
instrument, though favourable to its use, is still but limited, I cannot
do better than introduce here the following remarks of Mr. Beck, of
Isleworth, a very successful cultivator of plants, and one who has had
considerable experience in the use of these instruments. It will be
observed that Mr. Beck's standard for the orchid-house will be about
suitable for cucumbers.[4] Mr. Beck observes,--"The skilful gardener,
observing the pointer to advance with dryness and return with moisture,
will soon form a standard for himself, by which to regulate his stove,
greenhouse, &c.; still some general scale is desirable. Two conditions
must be carefully observed:--1. The instrument must neither be hung in the
sun, nor where it will be liable to get wetted or saturated. 2. It must
not be subjected to greater heat than is suited to vegetable life. For the
six months commencing with August and ending with January, 40 deg. in,
the morning, increasing to 60 deg. about noon, and declining again to 40
deg. at night, is about the right scale for the orchid-house; whilst a
range from 50 deg. to 80 deg. would be suitable for both the stove and
greenhouse in those months. In the other half year, February and July
inclusive, 30 deg. to 40 deg., morning and evening, running up to 80 deg.
in the middle of the day for the orchid-house; 40 deg. and 50 deg., and up
to 70 deg. for the stove; and 50 deg. to 80 deg. for the greenhouse, will
prove very suitable. The above scale is desirable, but I do not say it is
always attainable. Ours is an uncertain climate; sometimes a dry east wind
will almost parch us up; at other times a southerly one, with wet, will
cause a superabundance, which will have to be corrected, possibly by a
gentle fire, and a free admission of air. The alteration hereby effected
in the atmosphere of the houses will soon be evidenced by the hygrometer,
and mildew and fogging off be kept at a distance. Opposed to an excess of
moisture in the dull months of the year, is the dryness consequent on the
summer and autumnal sunshine. Then, during the heat of the days, the
instrument will seem to have run wild. Throwing water on the floors of the
houses, and every means of increasing the amount of moisture, seems but of
little or temporary avail; Simmons will go up, spite of all, to 90 deg. or
100 deg., and none the worse either, for it is still a faithful indicator,
and as sure as the day declines, and the heat of the sun is withdrawn, so
will it come back to a suitable point, when the plants are watered and the
floors are wetted for the night. Remembering then, the variableness of our
climate, I candidly admit that I consider any precise directions of very
little value. None can be given that shall be implicitly followed, or on
which success shall certainly attend. Horticultural practice should be
made dependant upon ever-varying circumstances."
Mr. Belville, of the Royal Observatory, has constructed the following
Table, from a series of observations made with Simmons' hygrometer in
connexion with the dew point, as obtained by a Mason's hygrometer, or a
dry and wet thermometer.
+------------------------------------------------------------------+
| Range Mean | |
|of Simmons' Humidity of| |
|Hygrometer. the Air.| |
+--------------------------| |
| 20 deg. to 30 deg. 1.00 |Extreme saturation; air precipitates |
| | moisture at a fall of temperature. |
| 30 .. 40 0.96 | |
| 40 .. 50 0.89 | |
| 50 .. 60 0.81 | |
| 60 .. 70 0.77 | } |
| 70 .. 80 0.72 | }Ordinary fine dry weather. |
| 80 .. 90 0.67 | } |
| 90 .. 100 0.59 | |
|100 .. 120 0.50 | Air contains one half of the moisture |
| | it is capable of holding in solution;|
| | in England very dry weather. |
+--------------------------+---------------------------------------+
Example:--Suppose hygrometer read 45 deg., the mean humidity
corresponding is 93. Again, if hygrometer read 90 deg., the mean
humidity corresponding is 59 deg.
_Mushrooms._ (See p. 22.)
Convenience for growing mushrooms may always be planned in a cucumber
house; and as these excellent fungi are universally approved, it may be
useful to append an epitome of the mode in which they should be
cultivated.
The best, or, at least, most convenient situation for the bed, would be
beneath that provided for the cucumber plants (see p. 18). The front may
be formed of two course of brick-on-edge, and if divisions are required,
they should be formed in the same way. The bottom should be made even, and
rendered dry. The material for forming the bed itself consists of short
stable litter, with horse-droppings, but chiefly the latter, brought to a
certain state of fermentation. The droppings and litter should be obtained
daily from the stable, until enough for a bed is collected; it should,
from day to day, be thrown up into a flattish heap, in a dry place, where
it will ferment very slightly. As soon as enough is got together to begin
to ferment, the heap must be turned over; and in these turnings, the outer
and inner parts of the heap, as well as the fresh and the fermenting, must
be well mixed up together; the heaps should be turned every second day,
and should never be made large, or else the dung would become both too hot
and too dry, either of which would spoil it. To avoid this, the heaps
should be flat and shallow, with as much outside as possible; in this way
the air, acting on a considerable portion of it, renders it rather dry,
and checks too rapid fermentation. This preparation must be continued
until the whole mass is brought to an uniform mild, dryish state of
fermentation. Then the bed may be made in the following manner:--About
three inches of the prepared dung is laid evenly over the bottom, and is
beaten down firmly with a flat heavy wooden mallet. Another layer is then
put on in the same way, and this is repeated until the bed is formed to a
thickness of about six inches. The next two inches of the dung should have
about a sixth part of light turfy loam reduced to mould, and sifted, mixed
with it to give it body. The bed is now prepared, and is to be spawned as
soon as it is seen that it does not heat violently. The heat ought not to
exceed 90 degrees: if it reaches higher than this, holes must be made, a
few inches apart, to let the heat pass off, and in a day or two these may
be filled up again. The spawn is to be put in when the heat ranges about
75 degrees; lumps of spawn about as large as a small egg may be used; a
hole should be made with the fingers about two inches deep, the spawn
inserted, and the material of the bed closed about it. Probably by this
time there will be no danger of overheating, and if so, the soil may be
put on; if, however, there is any inclination to overheat, wait till it
has passed off before putting on the soil. The soil used should be
decomposed turfy loam, moderately dry, so as to bear compression without
running together like paste, but damp enough to become firm, close, and
even, when beaten closely. About two inches in thickness should be put on,
and this is to be beaten down quite firm and close. The beds are then
finished. It is as well to cover the surface with a thin layer of short
hay, to prevent it becoming quite dry. Mushroom beds seldom require water;
after they have been some time in bearing, the beds sometimes get dry, and
in such cases, if they have a moderate soaking of _tepid_ water, and the
surface is covered as before, a new crop will spring up. The covering is
best removed when the beds are in bearing. It is seldom advisable to apply
water when the beds are coming into bearing. Water should never be used in
any other than a tepid state.
Mushrooms are most prized in the summer, though the atmosphere of a
cucumber-house would not then be suitable for them, unless the space about
them could be closed in, so as to retain a close, somewhat humid
atmosphere. They would succeed very well without being enclosed, during
the season for forcing cucumbers.
Under the treatment which has been detailed, the beds would usually come
into bearing in about six weeks from the time of spawning; and, under
favourable circumstances, would continue in bearing for two or three
months.
Footnotes:
[1] The Journal of the Horticultural Society of London, vol. I. p. 114.
[2] Ib. vol. II. p. 29.
[3] Gardener's Journal, 1847, p. 339.
[4] Gardener's Chronicle 1847.
Transcriber's Notes:
Passages in italics are indicated by _underscore_.
The following misprints have been corrected:
"influenee" corrected to "influence" (page 21)
"circumstauces" corrected to "circumstances" (page 32)
"analagous" corrected to "analogous" (page 36)
"shonld" corrected to "should" (page 36)
"distributiug" corrected to "distributing" (page 40)
"appropaiated" corrected to "appropriated" (page 55)
"conditious" corrected to "conditions" (page 72)
Other than the corrections listed above, printer's inconsistencies in
spelling and hyphenation usage have been retained.
Punctuation has been corrected without note.