FROM PANAMA TO GUAYAQUIL.--VASCO NUNEZ DE BALBOA.--HIS ADVENTURES AND
DEATH.--SCENES IN GUAYAQUIL.--FIRST EXPERIENCE WITH SOUTH AMERICAN
EARTHQUAKES.
[Illustration: BAY OF PANAMA, FROM THE SOUTHEASTERN RAMPART.]
Our friends spent another day in Panama, devoting part of the time to
arrangements for their departure, and the rest to strolling around the
city, and taking a short sail on the bay. They visited the island where
the Pacific Mail Steamship Company has its coaling-station, and its
wharves for receiving and discharging freight, and saw the docks where
ships needing repairs can be accommodated. Fred made the following notes
concerning the steamship connections from Panama:
"There are two American lines of steamers running northward to
California, and to Mexican and Central American ports, and there are
English, French, German, Chilian, and Peruvian lines reaching to all the
ports of the west coast of South America. The most important of all
these lines are the Pacific Mail (American), running northward, and the
Pacific Steam Navigation Company (English), running to the south. When
the Isthmus route was the favorite way of travel between the Atlantic
and Pacific coasts of the United States there were sometimes two or
three American lines between Panama and California, but at present there
is only one.
"There was formerly a line between Panama and Australia, but it was
discontinued long ago, and a line from here to the Sandwich Islands,
Japan, and China has been talked of, but never established. When the
Panama Canal is completed it is probable that the business of this port
will be greatly increased, and the number of daily arrivals and
departures will far exceed those of the most active times of the 'rush'
for California."
Dr. Bronson and the youths left the hotel about two o'clock in the
afternoon, and proceeded to the dock whence the tender was to carry them
to their steamer. The ships of the Pacific Steam Navigation Company run
in connection with the Royal Mail Line from England to Aspinwall; the
arrival of the English steamer at Aspinwall had been announced by
telegraph, and the train with the passengers and mails was due in Panama
about half-past two. While they were seated on the tender, and engaged
in studying the beautiful panorama of the bay, the whistle of the
locomotive was heard, and soon the train rolled into the station, and
its burden was transferred to the boat. The passage to the steamer was
quickly made, and by four o'clock the great craft was on her southerly
course.
[Illustration: COAST SCENE BELOW PANAMA.]
As our friends leaned over the rail, Dr. Bronson gave the youths some
reminiscences of the old days of California travel.
"On the voyage from New York to Aspinwall," said he, "passengers became
pretty well acquainted with each other; and it generally happened that
there were some practical jokers among them, who indulged in tricks for
creating amusement. One of the standing jokes of the departure from
Panama was, to create alarm among those who were making the voyage for
the first time, by spreading a report that they had embarked on the
wrong steamer, and were being carried to Callao."
"How could they do that?" Fred inquired.
"By looking at the map, you will see that the Bay of Panama is enclosed
between the mainland and the Peninsula of Azuero, the latter extending
to the southward about seventy-five miles; consequently a steamer going
to California must proceed in that direction, until she can turn the
point of the peninsula. Most of the novices were not aware of this; the
rumor was started, and, if incredulous, they were told to look at the
compass and be convinced. The compass corroborated the assertion of the
jokers, and many a traveller was seriously disturbed in mind until the
joke was explained."
"He was probably more careful in his study of geography after that
experience," Frank remarked.
"Sometimes," continued the Doctor, "the California steamers sailed at
the same time as the ships of the English line for South America, and
occasionally there was an international race as long as their courses
were nearly the same. The routes diverge very soon, so that the races
were brief, but, with a large number of passengers on board of each
steamer, there would be great excitement while the competition lasted,
and much money was wagered on the result. On one occasion, owing to the
carelessness of somebody, one steamer ran into another, but no serious
damage was done; at another time a steamer hugged the shore too closely
in order to shorten her running distance and get an advantage over her
rival. These accidents called attention to the racing, and the managers
of the different companies issued a very stringent order against any
more trials of speed. I have not heard of a repetition of these affairs
for a good many years, and there is rarely any opportunity for rivalry,
if we may judge by the time-tables of the various lines running from
Panama. When steamers are to leave on the same day there is generally an
hour or two between their departures, and the later one does not attempt
to over-haul her predecessor."
[Illustration: CAVE NEAR LIMON RIVER.]
As the great ship moved steadily through the blue water of the Bay of
Panama our young friends regarded with close attention the beautiful
panorama that passed before their eyes. The land was on both sides of
their course, the peninsula on the right, and the mainland of South
America on the left; the horizon to the eastward was filled with the
chain of the Cordilleras, which increase in height farther to the south,
and form the lofty line of the Andes. One of the passengers who was
familiar with the coast indicated to our friends the Gulf of San Blas,
and other indentations which have come into prominence during the
discussions about an inter-oceanic canal, and a good deal of
geographical knowledge was imbibed in the first few hours of the
voyage.
The Bay of Panama is about one hundred and ten miles long, and its width
at the mouth is a little more than that distance. The course of the
steamer carried her away from the peninsula, and before they had been
long under way the latter was only dimly visible. It vanished with the
sun, and by the following morning was far behind them. The placid waters
of the Pacific Ocean filled the horizon, south, north, and west, but the
mountains on the east were in full view. Smoke issuing from some of
these mountains showed that they were volcanic, and the youths readily
understood that they were approaching the region of eruptions and
earthquakes.
[Illustration: VASCO NUNEZ DE BALBOA.]
Guayaquil, in Ecuador, was the first stopping-place of the steamer, four
days from Panama. Frank suggested that it was a good time to refresh
their memories, or add to their knowledge, of the history of this part
of the world; Fred agreed with him, and thought they would do well to
begin with Vasco Nunez de Balboa, the discoverer of the Pacific Ocean.
The Doctor gave his approval, and the principal part of the second day
at sea was devoted to that enterprising explorer. While Frank read from
Balboa's biography, Fred took notes of the most important parts of the
story, which were as follows:
"Vasco Nunez de Balboa was a Spanish nobleman, who dissipated his
fortune, and ran away from home to avoid imprisonment for debt. He was
born in 1475, and sailed for the New World soon after the return of
Columbus from his fourth voyage.
"In 1510, Martin Fernandez De Enciso sailed for the colony of
Carthagena, which had been established a few years earlier. He found in
its harbor a brigantine which contained the remnants of a colony
established farther down the coast, but abandoned in consequence of the
hostility of the natives and the difficulty of procuring food. The
leader of this party was Francisco Pizarro, whose name is known to every
reader of South American history, in connection with the conquest of
Peru.
[Illustration: BALBOA CARRIED ON SHIPBOARD.]
"After a short delay in Carthagena, Enciso sailed for St. Sebastian,
accompanied by Pizarro's brigantine. An hour or two before the vessel
was to leave port some men brought a cask on board, and it was lowered
into the hold with the rest of the provisions. When the ship was fairly
out at sea the end of the cask was pushed out, and, instead of edibles
for the crew, there appeared the form and figure of a man!
[Illustration: BALBOA MAKES HIS APPEARANCE.]
"The man was Balboa, who had been living in Carthagena. He had so loaded
himself with debts in his new home that his creditors were about to
arrest him and he was closely watched to prevent his running away. He
determined to sail with Enciso, and caused himself to be headed up in a
cask and carried on board in the manner described."
Frank and Fred had a hearty laugh over this part of the story. One of
them asked the Doctor if this mode of travel was in fashion at the
present time.
"Not often," was the reply, "but it is sometimes practised by those who
wish to do exactly like Balboa, escape from their creditors. I have
known of a man being carried on board a steamer at New York in a large
trunk, which was ostensibly the baggage of his wife, and there have been
instances of criminals escaping from prison by being shut up in boxes
and carried out as merchandise.
"In the days of slavery the friends of freedom used to assist slaves to
escape from bondage in a variety of ways. One of the favorite modes for
a fugitive to cross the line from south to north was to be shut up in a
box and sent as a freight or express package. I once knew a negro in
Philadelphia who was sent in this way from Richmond to the Quaker City;
he was about thirty hours on the way, and almost dead from suffocation
when his prison was opened. Though his conveyance was conspicuously
labelled, 'This side up with care!' he was twice left standing on his
head for two or three hours. His name was Henry Brown; in memory of his
adventures, and to distinguish him from other Henry Browns, he was ever
afterwards known as Henry Box Brown.
"And now let us return to Balboa," said the Doctor. The hint was
sufficient, and the narrative was resumed.
"Enciso was angry at the deception practised by Balboa in securing
passage as a stowaway, but soon had reason to be glad he had such a bold
adventurer on his ship. At first he threatened to leave Balboa on a
desert island, but when the latter offered his services and promised to
be a good soldier the leader relented. Expeditions like those of the
Spaniards are not made up of the best materials of society, and events
afterwards proved that Balboa was more than the average adventurer of
the sixteenth century.
"On the way to St. Sebastian Enciso's ship ran upon the rocks and was
lost, with all its cargo, only the crew escaping to the brigantine of
Pizarro. Enciso did not know where to go; and while he was pondering
upon the best course to pursue Balboa came before him and said he knew
of an Indian village on the bank of a river called Darien; the country
near the village was fertile, and the natives had plenty of gold.
[Illustration: VILLAGE ON A RIVER OF DARIEN.]
"Enciso sailed for the village, which he captured with ease, and
compelled the inhabitants to deliver up fifty thousand dollars' worth of
gold ornaments. He established a colony there, and forbade any one to
traffic with the natives for gold, under penalty of death. This
arbitrary order was opposed by Balboa, who remembered the threat to
leave him on a desert island; as the followers of Enciso were quite as
covetous as their leader, the prohibition was easily made the basis of a
revolt.
"Balboa managed matters so well that Enciso was forced to leave for
Spain, while the former became governor, with absolute authority over
all the colony. He immediately sent Pizarro to explore a neighboring
province, but the expedition was unsuccessful; Pizarro was driven back
by the Indians, who attacked him in great force. Balboa then headed an
expedition in person, and while sailing along the coast he picked up two
Spaniards in the dress of natives. They were deserters from another
colony, and had been living with Careta, the chief of the province of
Coyba; they had been kindly treated by this chief, but promptly offered
to pilot Balboa to his village, which was said to contain great
quantities of the precious metal desired by the Spaniards.
"Balboa accepted their offer and started for Careta's capital,
accompanied by the deserters and one hundred and fifty soldiers. Careta
received him kindly, and after a short stay Balboa pretended to leave.
In the night he attacked the village and made prisoners of the chief,
together with his family, and many of his people. Careta made peace with
the Spaniards by giving up a large amount of gold, and offering the hand
of his daughter in marriage to Balboa. The historians say she had much
influence over Balboa, and on one occasion saved his life.
[Illustration: BALBOA AND THE INDIAN PRINCESS.]
"Balboa promised to help Careta against his enemies, and in compliance
with his promise he took eighty men and went on an expedition against
Ponca, who was an enemy of Careta, and, what was more to the point with
Balboa, was said to have a great amount of treasure. Ponca was attacked
and his village was burned, but the victors obtained very little gold.
Then they went to the neighboring province of Comagre, whose chief was
friendly with Careta, and received them kindly. The chief came out to
meet the strangers and escort them to the village, where he gave them
food and comfortable lodgings, and did everything he could to make their
stay agreeable.
"The people at this village were the most advanced in civilization that
the Spaniards had thus far found in America. The chief's palace was a
frame building, four hundred and fifty feet long and two hundred and
forty wide, and it was divided into numerous apartments for the chief
and his family and officers. Underneath it there was a cellar for
storing provisions, and in one part of the building was a mausoleum,
where the bodies of the chief's ancestors were preserved. Balboa
examined this mausoleum, and found that the bodies were first dried by
fire, to prevent decay, and then wrapped in great quantities of cloths
which were interwoven with threads of gold. Pearls and pieces of gold
were fastened around the wrappings, and then the bundles were hung
against the walls of the room.
"It did not take long for the Spanish avarice to show itself, and to
meet it the eldest son of the chief brought four thousand ounces of
gold, which was distributed among the men, after a fifth of the whole
had been reserved for the crown. During the division a quarrel arose
between two of the men, about the weight of two pieces of gold.
[Illustration: QUARREL FOR THE GOLD.]
"They drew their swords and were about to fight, when the young chief
seized the scales and dashed their contents to the ground.
"'Why do you quarrel about such trash as this?' said he. 'If you come
here for gold, go beyond those mountains, where there is a great sea on
which sail vessels like your own. The streams that flow into it are
filled with gold; the people who live on its coast eat and drink from
vessels of gold.'"
Balboa was present at this incident; he had not interfered in the
quarrel, but when the chief spoke he became interested. He talked long
and earnestly with the chief, who represented the dangers and
difficulties of the way, but offered to show it to the adventurer, if he
was determined to go there.
"Balboa returned to the colony at Darien to make preparations for an
expedition to discover the great sea beyond the mountains, and obtain
the gold of the people along its coast. He sent to Spain for the men he
required for the journey, but after he had waited long and anxiously a
ship arrived with news that his enemy Enciso had obtained a favorable
hearing before the king, and was coming back to assume command, while
Balboa was to be sent to Spain to answer a charge of treason.
"He determined to make a bold stroke, and called for volunteers to
accompany him on the expedition, as he could not expect the men he had
asked for from the king. One hundred and ninety men volunteered, and on
the 1st of September, 1513, he sailed with a brigantine and ten canoes.
He reached the dominions of his father-in-law, Careta, near the modern
village of Careto, about twenty miles from the mouth of the Caledonia
River, on the route taken by Lieutenant Strain.
[Illustration: MARCHING THROUGH THE FOREST.]
"Here the inland march began. The men toiled over rocks and among the
thick undergrowth, and suffered from sickness and hunger and from the
opposition of the Indians. They could not find the young chief who had
offered to guide them over the mountains, but they captured some of the
Indians and forced them to show the way. At one village the chief called
out his men to attack the strangers, but they were quickly dispersed by
the guns of the Spaniards. The Indians had never heard the report of
fire-arms, and were paralyzed at what they believed to be thunder and
lightning in human hands.
"Beyond this village was a mountain, from whose top the guide assured
Balboa the great ocean was visible. Halting a day for the benefit of his
sick and wounded, he pushed on till he reached the foot of the mountain,
and stood there with his faithful followers. There they rested until
another morning; he ordered every man to be ready to move at daybreak
and then he lay down to sleep. His example was followed by his men; they
slept, but he did not, as his mind was too full of what the morrow might
disclose to allow of slumber.
"At the first sign of day he roused his men, and prepared for the march.
The sick and wounded were left in the camp, and with sixty-seven
followers he pushed forward. It was nearly noon when they emerged from
the forest, and stood at the foot of the stony peak from which the guide
said the sea was visible. Here Balboa ordered his men to remain till he
had reached the summit; he wished that his eyes should be the first to
look upon the great ocean, of whose existence he still had lingering
doubts.
[Illustration: DISCOVERY OF THE PACIFIC.]
"He reached the summit, and there, spread before him and filling the
horizon, were the blue waters of the Pacific. Balboa gazed for several
minutes, in the enthusiasm of his discovery, and then beckoned for his
followers to join him.
"The men dashed forward, Pizarro among them, and soon were at the side
of their chief. One of the party was a priest, and as they came to a
halt he began to chant _Te Deum Laudamus!_ The chant was taken up by the
whole band of adventurers, and as soon as it was ended they proceeded to
build a mound of stones on which they erected a cross, in honor of the
discovery.
"Balboa then descended the mountain to the shores of the Pacific, where
he took possession of the waters in the name of his king. He attempted
to explore the country, but travelled only a short distance along the
coast; passing through many hardships, he returned to Darien, whence he
despatched a ship to Spain, bearing the news of his discovery, and the
royal share of the gold he had taken.
[Illustration: CUTTING TIMBER FOR THE SHIPS.]
"Already a new governor had been appointed, and shortly after Balboa's
messenger had sailed the governor arrived. Balboa was tried on the old
charges, and acquitted, and he then started to carry out his intention
of exploring the Pacific. Crossing the mountains, he built vessels on
the banks of the Valsa River, visited the Pearl Islands in Panama Bay,
and explored parts of the coast. It was reported that he intended to
establish a colony on the Pacific Ocean, and set up in opposition to the
newly appointed Governor of Darien--or, rather, independently of him.
[Illustration: DEATH OF BALBOA.]
"The governor summoned Balboa to Darien to meet him in friendly
consultation, and the latter went, in spite of the advice of his
comrades, who suspected that official's intentions. The governor
arrested him on a charge of treason, and went through the form of a
trial, which resulted in Balboa's conviction and condemnation to death.
When he was led forth to execution a crier preceded him, proclaiming him
a traitor to the crown. 'It is false!' exclaimed Balboa with great
indignation; 'I have sought to serve my king with truth and loyalty, and
no such crime as treason has ever entered my mind.'
"Balboa was only forty-one years of age when he perished, the victim of
the same jealousy and hatred which caused Columbus to be carried in
chains to the prison where he died. There is no doubt that his career
was marked by many acts of cruelty, but nothing in his history indicates
other than the most devoted loyalty to his sovereign and to the country
of his birth."
The study of the history of Balboa was followed by a careful inspection
of the map of the Darien Isthmus, in the effort to determine the
identity of the mountain from which the Pacific Ocean was first seen by
the eyes of a European. The Doctor told the youths that the mountain had
not been identified, but was thought to lie between the rivers which
Strain attempted to follow in his explorations for a canal. All the
peaks in this region are difficult of access, and few of them have been
ascended by white men.
The steamer reached Guayaquil on the morning of the fourth day from
Panama. Our friends secured a boat for themselves and their baggage, and
went on shore immediately; it was their intention to spend a fortnight
in Ecuador, and then take steamer again to Callao.
At the landing-place they were beset by beggars, pedlers, guides, and
donkey-owners, all desirous of receiving tokens of remembrance in the
shape of money, selling articles of use or uselessness, or otherwise
rendering real or imaginary services. All were shaken off in a little
while, with the exception of the most prepossessing of the guides, who
was engaged to take them to the hotel and show them around the city.
A rickety carriage was obtained, but, as it showed signs of weakness, it
was exchanged at the hotel for one of a more substantial character. The
streets and the buildings that lined them greatly resembled those of
Panama, and indicated that the builders of both were of the same
nationality. The cathedral was visited, but there was nothing remarkable
in its appearance, and a very brief examination sufficed.
Frank said the most interesting part of the city was the river which ran
through it; it is called the Guayaquil, and also the Guayas; its name
has been given to the city, which is really "Santiago di Guayaquil." All
the provisions for the city are brought in canoes and on _balsas_ or
rafts, and every morning the river is almost covered with these crafts.
They were laden with all sorts of things produced in the
country--bananas, plantains, pineapples, cocoanuts, guavas, melons,
oranges, zapotes, mangoes, and kindred fruits that grow in the tropics,
and there was also a goodly array of tropical vegetables.
Poultry-dealers were numerous, and the fowls with which their cages were
filled kept up a vigorous cackling; there were fish of many varieties,
some of them quite new to our young friends, who regarded them with much
interest. In their eagerness to get about the boatmen frequently ran
their craft against those of their neighbors, but there was the utmost
good-nature, with one or two exceptions. Probably the people find it
does not pay to quarrel where the climate is so warm, and the effort of
getting into a passion is too much for every-day life.
[Illustration: CATHEDRAL OF GUAYAQUIL.]
The city has a population of twenty-five or thirty thousand, and is a
little more than two degrees south of the equator, consequently it is
very hot, and quite unhealthy, in spite of the sanitary precautions that
have been taken by its authorities. The Bay, or Gulf, of Guayaquil has a
tide of about twenty feet, so that any accumulation of impurities is
prevented by the great flow of water in and out of the channel every
day. It has one of the best harbors on the west coast of South America,
and would have a considerable commerce were it not that the prosperity
of the country is restricted by earthquakes.
[Illustration: STREET SCENE AND RUINS.]
Our friends found that some of the streets were narrow and crooked, but
the most of them were comparatively straight, and crossed at right
angles. They drove past the principal buildings, the governor's
residence, City Hall, and several churches, and then into the suburbs,
where they saw some pretty gardens full of tropical flowers.
As the forenoon advanced the heat increased, and they returned to
breakfast at their hotel. The table was set on the veranda, which
afforded a fine view of the lofty peaks of the Andes. The manager of the
establishment was a stout and dreamy Spaniard, who went to sleep if his
attention was not wanted for a minute, but waked immediately when he
was spoken to. The waiter was of aboriginal descent, and seemed to have
copied the habits of his master in the matter of deliberation, as he
paused after each step, as though uncertain about the next.
They had a breakfast of tortillas, or Spanish griddle-cakes, a chicken
broiled over the coals, which were still adhering in places, and an
omelette in which various peppery things were very apparent to the
palate.
When they were nearing the end of their repast, and just as Fred was
helping himself to more of the omelette, there was a trembling of the
floor that brought the youths out of their chairs and caused the Doctor
to assume an upright position. The movement lasted perhaps a quarter of
a minute, and then ceased.
"Take your seats again," said Dr. Bronson, "and finish your breakfast.
We are in the land of the earthquake, and this is an every-day
occurrence."
He suited the action to his word, and sat down. The youths followed his
example, and a moment's reflection told them that they ought not to be
disturbed by such a trifling shake at the very beginning of their South
American experience.
[Illustration: IN THE LAND OF THE EARTHQUAKE.]