In making Ice Cream always use rich, sweet cream, sweetened with
powdered sugar, and flavor with the extract of lemon.
VANILLA, ETC., ETC.--In warm weather be particular that the cream is
not set anywhere near the fire, as there is danger of the least heat
turning it sour. It should be left in the refrigerator, or some cool
place, until time to prepare it for freezing.
When cream cannot be had, an excellent substitute may be made as
follows: To a quart of new milk add two beaten eggs; set it on the fire
in a saucepan, but be careful not to stir it after it is hot, as that
would be apt to make it burn. While it is heating mix smoothly with a
teacup of new milk a table-spoonful of flour, and be ready to stir it
into the milk on the fire as soon as it comes to the boiling point.
Remove it immediately, and pour it into another vessel to cool. This
is known to cooks as boiled custard; and although some take more than
two eggs, that number, used as directed, will be found sufficient to
make a delicious substitute for cream, and for this purpose all the
more desirable because not taking so much of the egg; the color also
being that of a very rich cream. The custard thus prepared should now
be sweetened well, and treated just as in making with cream, with the
exception that this requires the addition of a small pinch of salt;
and when the whole is frozen very few can distinguish it from genuine
ice-cream; indeed, half that sold in confectionaries is prepared in
this manner. Some confectioners use arrow-root instead of flour for
thickening; but either flour or corn-starch is better for the purpose,
as they have no taste of their own.
FREEZING.--When the cream or custard is prepared it is put into the
freezer, which is a cylindrical tin vessel which is provided with a
rotary scraper or dasher, moving by a crank, with a handle through the
lid. The freezer is then firmly imbedded in a bucket of pounded ice,
mixed with coarse salt. This bucket should be provided with a hole or
spigot near the bottom, so as to drain off the superfluous water caused
by the melting ice. The lid of the freezer must be tight-fitting and
secure, so as to avoid all danger of the salt getting into it. As soon
as the freezer is firmly fixed and entirely surrounded with the salt
and the ice, commence turning the handle, and continue to turn until
it is well frozen, which is soon indicated by the increased difficulty
of moving the crank. As soon as it becomes stiff the lid may be raised
and the dasher removed, using a spoon to scrape off the cream that
adheres to it. If it is to be molded the tin form may now be filled. If
a pyramid is used, put a spoonful of the softest frozen cream into the
extreme point, being careful that it fills up well; then go on filling
it up, being careful to press into every part. Some force is required
to pack it tightly, in order to give firmness and body to the form when
removed from the mold. When entirely full, put the lid on the mold,
and plunge it into a bed of salted ice, there to remain until time for
serving.
When about to serve, have a plate ready, a little larger than the base
of the pyramid, also a pan of hot water; roll the tin form, for an
instant only, then wipe quickly, and, holding it top downwards, remove
the lid, place the plate over it, and quickly turn it right side up,
setting the plate on the table; remove the tin mold carefully, and the
pyramid will remain standing on the plate. Another plan is to wipe the
outside of the mold, on taking it from the ice bed; then take off the
lid, and set the pyramid base downwards on the plate; wring cloths out
of scalding water, and wrap them around the tin mold for a few minutes,
until the cream is sufficiently melted to allow the tin to be lifted
off.
All ices made with red fruit require the addition of a little cochineal
to heighten the color.
The quantity of fruit required for fruit ices will depend in a great
measure on the quality of the fruit and the season in which it is
produced; a pint and a half will be found sufficient when it is good
in fine seasons; the quantity stated in each weight is the greatest
required.
APPLE-WATER ICE.--Pare and core some fine apples, cut them in pieces
into a preserving pan with sufficient water for them to float, boil
until they are reduced to a marmalade, then strain; to a pint of apple
water add half a pint of syrup, the juice of a lemon, and a little
water; when cold, freeze.
APRICOT--FRESH FRUIT.--Twenty-four fine ripe apricots, one quart of
cream, twelve ounces of sugar, the juice of two lemons, with a few of
the kernels blanched; mash the apricots, rub them through a sieve, mix,
and freeze.
APRICOT, FROM JAM.--Twelve ounces of jam, one quart of cream, the juice
of two lemons, eight ounces of sugar, a few kernels or bitter almonds
blanched and pounded fine; rub the whole through a sieve, and freeze.
CHOCOLATE ICE.--One quart of cream, six ounces of chocolate, and ten
ounces of sugar; dissolve the chocolate in a little water, or make the
sugar into a syrup, and dissolve it by putting it on the side of the
stove, or over the fire; add the cream and eggs, and make it into a
custard as before; when cold, freeze.
COFFEE ICE CREAM.--One quart of cream, five ounces of Mocha coffee,
and twelve ounces of sugar; roast the coffee in a coarse iron or other
stew-pan, keeping it constantly stirred until it is a good brown color;
throw it into the custard cream whilst it is quite hot, and cover it
closely; let it infuse for an hour or two, then strain and freeze.
The cream may be made with an infusion of coffee, thus: take the
quantity of coffee, fresh roasted and ground to a fine powder; put this
into a common glass bottle or decanter, and pour on it sufficient cold
river water to moisten the powder and make an infusion: stop the bottle
close, and let it remain all night; the next day filter the infusion by
passing it through some fine lawn or blotting paper placed in a glass
funnel: by this process a very strong superior infusion is obtained,
which contains the whole of the aroma of the coffee. Dr. Ratier
observes, "I have tried this process with boiling and with cold water;
and I have assured myself, by comparison, that the powder drained by
the cold water, and treated then with boiling water, gave nothing but
a water slightly tinted with yellow, and devoid of odor and flavor. It
is, besides, proper to pass an equal quantity of water to the first,
over the grounds, in order that the second water may serve for new
powder." Use this for flavoring the custard, and freeze.
CURRANT ICE FROM FRESH FRUIT.--One pint and a half of ripe currants,
half a pint of raspberries, one quart of cream, the juice of two
lemons, and twelve ounces of sugar. Mix as raspberry.
CURRANT ICE.--PRESERVED FRUIT.--The same proportions as raspberry,
using either jam or jelly.
CUSTARD ICES.--These are similarly composed to the cream Ices, with
the addition of six eggs to each quart of cream. All kinds of nuts,
liquors, essences, infusions, or biscuits are principally mixed with it.
GINGER ICE.--Six ounces of preserved ginger, one quart of cream, half a
pint of the syrup from the ginger, sugar sufficient to sweeten it with,
and the juice of two lemons; pound the ginger in a mortar, add the
cream, etc., and freeze.
HARLEQUIN ICE.--This is formed by putting a small quantity of each kind
of ice into the same mold, taking care to have as great a variety of
colors placed so as to produce a contrast; cover the mold with salt and
ice as before directed, and let it remain half an hour, when it will be
fit to turn out. When the colors are tastily disposed of it produces a
good effect for the table, but is not much admired on account of the
jumble of flavors.
LEMON ICE CREAM.--Six large lemons, one quart of cream and twelve
ounces of sugar or half pint of syrup; grate off the peels of three of
the lemons into a basin, squeeze the juice to it, let it stand for two
or three hours, strain, add the cream and syrup, and freeze or mix as
Seville orange ice.
MARASCHINO CREAM ICE.--Make as noyau, flavoring it with Maraschino
de Zarah. All liquor ices are made the same way, using the different
liquors with which each is named, or they may be made in this way: Take
a quart of cream, put it into the ice-pot with six ounces of sugar,
which you place in the ice; work or whisk it well about the sides with
a whisk for five minutes; add a glassful of liquor, work this well
together, then whisk the whites of two eggs to a strong froth; add two
ounces of sugar to them, mix this well with the cream, and freeze to
the required consistence. This produces a very beautiful, soft, and
mellow cream.
NOYAU CREAM ICE.--Make a custard cream, and flavor it with noyau;
finish as almond ice.
ORANGE ICE CREAM.--Six oranges, three lemons, one quart of cream, and
twelve ounces of sugar or of syrup, to palate; rub off the yellow rind
of two or three of the oranges on part of the sugar, scrape it off with
a knife, squeeze out the juice of the oranges and lemons, and strain
it; mix it with the cream and the sugar, on which the rind was rubbed,
add the other part of the sugar, dissolve and freeze.
PEACH ICE.--The same proportions as apricot.
PINEAPPLE--FRESH FRUIT.--One pound of fresh pineapple, half a pint
of syrup in which a pine has been preserved, two or three slices of
pineapple cut in small dice, and the juice of three lemons; pound or
grate the apple, pass it through a sieve, mix and freeze.
PINEAPPLE--PRESERVED FRUIT.--Eight ounces of preserved pine, four
slices cut in small dice, one quart of cream, the juice of three
lemons, and sufficient syrup from the pine to sweeten it; pound the
preserved pine, mix lemons with the cream, etc., and freeze.
PUNCH A LA ROMAINE--ROMAN PUNCH ICE.--Make a quart of lemon ice, and
flavor it with a glass or two of each of rum, brandy, champagne, and
Maraschino; when it is frozen, to each quart take the whites of five
eggs and whip them to a very strong froth; boil half a pound of sugar
to the ball, and rub it with a spoon or spatula against the sides to
grain it: when it turns white, mix it quickly with the whites of eggs,
stir it lightly together, and add it to the ice; when cold, mix it well
together, and serve it in glasses. Less sugar must be used in the ice,
so as to allow for that which is used in making the meringue.
PUNCH-WATER ICE.--Make either a good lemon ice, or use some orange
juice with the lemons, in the proportion of one orange to two lemons:
either rub off the yellow rind of the lemons on sugar, or pare it very
thin, and soak it in spirit for a few hours; when the ice is beginning
to set, work in the whites of three eggs to each quart, beaten to a
strong froth, and mixed with sugar as for meringue, or add the whites
without whisking them; when it is nearly frozen, take out the pot
from the ice, and mix well with it a glass each of rum and brandy, or
sufficient to make it a good flavor; some like the taste of rum to
predominate, but in this case of course you will be guided by the wish
of your employer. In general the prevailing flavor distinguishes it
by name, as rum-punch or brandy-punch ice; after the spirit is well
mixed, replace the pot and finish freezing. Champagne, arrack, or tea
is added; it is then termed champagne-punch ice, arrack-punch ice, etc.
RASPBERRY OR FRESH FRUIT.--One quart of raspberries, one quart of
cream, three quarters of a pound or a pound of sugar, a few ripe
currants and gooseberries, or currants and ripe cherries may be added,
instead of all raspberries, which is much approved by some, and the
juice of two lemons; mash the fruit, and pass it through a sieve to
take out the skins and seeds; mix it with the other articles; add a
little prepared cochineal to heighten the color; put it in the pot and
freeze.
RASPBERRY FROM JAM.--One pound of jam, one quart of cream, about six
ounces of sugar or syrup, to palate, and the juice of two lemons. Mix
as before.
STRAWBERRY.--Same as raspberry.
VANILLA ICE.--One quart of cream, half an ounce of vanilla, twelve
ounces of sugar; cut the vanilla into small pieces, and pound it with
the sugar until it is quite fine, add it to the cream and eggs, make it
into a custard, strain, and when cold, freeze, or it may be flavored
with the essence of vanilla. (See Essences.)
WATER ICES.--These are the pulp or juice of fruits, mixed with syrup,
lemon juice, and a little water, so as to bring them to a good flavor
and consistence when frozen.