As sugar is the basis or groundwork of the confectioner's art, it is
essentially necessary that the practitioner should carefully study and
observe the difference in its qualities, the changes which it undergoes
or effects when combined with other articles in the process of
manufacture, and also the different forms which it assumes by itself,
at various stages. Without this knowledge, a man will never become a
thorough and efficient workman, and it can only be acquired by practice
and experience.
The first process which it undergoes, in the hands of the confectioner,
is that of clarification. It is conducted on the same principle as the
refining of sugar, although not carried out in every particular.
CLARIFICATION OF RAW SUGAR.--For every six pounds of sugar required
to be clarified, take one quart of water, the white of an egg, and
about half a tea-cupful of bullock's blood. Less than a pint will
be sufficient for 112 pounds; but if a very fine, transparent, and
colorless syrup is required, use either charcoal, finely powdered,
or ivory-black, instead of the blood. Put the white of an egg in the
water, and whisk it to a froth; then add either of the other articles
mentioned, and the sugar; place the pan containing the ingredients on
the stove-fire, and stir them well with the spatula, until the sugar is
dissolved, and is nearly boiling.
When the ebullition commences, throw in a little cold water to check
it; this causes the coarser parts to separate more freely, by which
means the whole of the impurities attach themselves to the clarifying
matter used; continue this for about five minutes, using about one pint
of water to every six pounds of sugar, or more, until you consider
the whole of the dross is discharged, and there remains a fine clear
syrup. Then place it by the side of the stove, and carefully remove
with a skimmer the scum which has formed on the top; it may also be
taken off as it rises, but I find the best method is to let it remain
a short time after it is clarified, before it is removed; otherwise,
if you take it off as it rises, part of the syrup is also taken with
it. When either charcoal or black is used, it must be passed through a
filtering-bag, made of thick flannel, in the shape of a cone, having a
hoop fastened round the top, to keep it extended, and to which strings
are sewn, that it may be tied or suspended in any convenient manner;
what runs out at first will be quite black; return this again into the
bag, and continue doing so until it runs fine and clear.
If a little lime, about a spoonful, or any other alkali is added to
the sugar, with the water, etc., it will neutralize the acid which all
raw sugars contain, and they will be found to stand much better after
they have been manufactured, by not taking the damp so soon. This is
not generally done by the trade, but it will be found beneficial if
practiced.
TO CLARIFY LOAF SUGAR.--This is clarified by mixing the whites of eggs
with water, without any other assistance, for having been previously
refined, it does not require those auxiliaries again to separate the
coarser parts, unless it is of an inferior quality, or an extra fine
syrup, as for bonbons and other fancy articles, as required. When it
is necessary to have a very fine sparkling grain, in that case break
your lump into small pieces, and put it in a preserving-pan, with a
sufficient quantity of water to dissolve it, in which has been mixed
the white of an egg and powdered charcoal; as for raw sugar, following
those instructions already given. After the sugar has been drained from
the bag, pass some water through, to take off any which may be left in
the charcoal, which you use for dissolving more sugar.
The scum should always be reserved when charcoal or black is not used,
to mix with the articles of an inferior quality.
The best refined loaf sugar should be white, dry, fine, of a brilliant
sparkling appearance, when broken, and as close in texture as possible.
The best sort of brown has a bright, sparkling, and gravelly look.
East India sugars appear finer, but do not contain so much saccharine
matter, yet they are much used for manufacturing the best sort of
common sweetmeats, when clarified, instead of loaf sugar.
DEGREES OF BOILING SUGAR.--This is the principal point to which the
confectioner has to direct his attention; for if he is not expert in
this particular, all his other labor and knowledge will be useless;
it is the foundation on which he must build to acquire success in his
undertakings.
There are seven essential points or degrees in boiling sugar; some
authors give thirteen, but many of these are useless, and serve only
to show critical precision in the art, without its being required in
practice; however, for exactness, we will admit of nine, viz: 1. Small
thread. 2. Large thread. 3. Little Pearl. 4. Large Pearl. 5. The blow.
6. The feather. 7. Ball. 8. Crack. 9. Caramel. This last degree derives
its name from "a Count Albufage Caramel, who discovered this method of
boiling sugar."
In describing the process, I shall proceed in a different manner to
other writers on the subject, by classing it under different heads,
according to the uses to which it is applied.