Fashion during the reign of Louis XV.--Costumes _à la_
Watteau--An army of barbers--The fashions of England during the
reign of Queen Anne--The diminutive waist and enormous hoop of
her day--The farthingale: letters in the _Guardian_ protesting
against its use--Fashion in 1713--Low dresses, tight stays, and
short skirts: letters relating to--Correspondence touching the
fashions of that period from the _Guardian_--Accomplishments of
a lady's-maid--Writings of Gay and Ben Jonson--Their remarks on
the "_bodice_" and "_stays_."
At the death of Louis XIV. and the accession of his successor, Louis
XV., in 1715, fashions ran into wonderful extremes and caprices. Hoops
became the rage, as did patches, paint, and marvellously high-heeled
shoes. The artistic skill of Watteau in depicting costume and devising
the attributes of the favourite fancy dresses of the time, led to
their adoption among the votaries of fashion. Shepherds who owned no
sheep were tricked out in satins, laces, and ribbons, and tripped it
daintily hand in hand with the exquisitely-dressed, slender-waisted
shepherdesses we see reproduced in Dresden china and the accompanying
illustration. Guitars tinkled beneath the trees of many a grove in the
pleasure-grounds of the fine old châteaux of France; fruit strewed on
the ground, costly wines in massive flagons, groups of gay gallants
and charming belles, such as the accompanying illustration represents,
engaged in love-making, music and flirtation, make up the scene on
which Watteau loved most to dwell, and which King Louis' gay subjects
were not slow in performing to the life, and the happy age of the poet
appeared all but realised:--
"There was once a golden time
When the world was in its prime--
When every day was holiday,
And every shepherd learned to love."
To carry out the everyday life of this dream world, no small amount
of sacrifice and labour was needed, and we are informed that over
twelve hundred hairdressers were in full occupation in Paris alone,
frizzing, curling, and arranging in a thousand and one fantastical
ways, hours being needed to perfect the head-gear of a lady of _ton_.
For the prevailing fashions of England we must step back a few years,
and glance at the latter portion of the reign of Queen Anne, at which
time we find the diminutive size of the waist in marked contrast to
the enormous dimensions of the hoop or farthingale, which reached such
a formidable size that numerous remonstrances appeared in the journals
of the day relative to it. The following letter complaining of the
grievance appeared in the _Guardian_ of July 22, 1713:--
"MR. GUARDIAN,--Your predecessor, the _Spectator_,
endeavoured, but in vain, to improve the charms of the
fair sex by exposing their dress whenever it launched into
extremities. Amongst the rest the great petticoat came under his
consideration, but in contradiction to whatever he has said,
they still resolutely persist in this fashion. The form of their
bottom is not, I confess, altogether the same, for whereas
before it was one of an orbicular make, they now look as if
they were pressed so that they seem to deny access to any part
but the middle. Many are the inconveniences that accrue to her
majesty's loving subjects from the said petticoats, as hurting
men's shins, sweeping down the ware of industrious females in
the street, &c. I saw a young lady fall down the other day,
and, believe me, sir, she very much resembled an overturned
bell without a clapper. Many other disasters I could tell you
of that befall themselves as well as others by means of this
unwieldy garment. I wish, Mr. Guardian, you would join with me
in showing your dislike of such a monstrous fashion, and I hope,
when the ladies see this, the opinion of two of the wisest men
in England, they will be convinced of their folly.
"I am, sir, your daily reader and admirer,
"TOM PAIN."
[Illustration: COSTUMES AFTER WATTEAU.]
[Illustration: CRINOLINE IN 1713.]
The accompanying illustration will show that these remonstrances were
not without cause.
The fashion of wearing extremely low dresses, with particularly short
skirts, also led to much correspondence and many strong remarks, which
are duly commented on by the editor of the _Guardian_, assisted by his
"_good old lady_," as he calls her, "the Lady Lizard." Thus he writes
on the subject under discussion:--
"_Editorial letter._
"GUARDIAN, _July 16, 1713_.
"I am very well pleased with this approbation of my good
sisters. I must confess I have always looked on the 'tucker'
to be the _decus et tutamen_, the ornament and defence of the
female neck. My good old lady, the Lady Lizard, condemned this
fashion from the beginning, and has observed to me, with some
concern, that her sex at the same time they are letting down
their stays are tucking up their petticoats, which grow shorter
and shorter every day. The leg discovers itself in proportion
with the neck, but I may possibly take another occasion of
handling this extremity, it being my design to keep a watchful
eye over every part of the female sex, and to regulate them
from head to foot. In the meantime I shall fill up my paper
with a letter which comes to me from another of my obliged
correspondents."
That these very low dresses were not alone worn in the house and
at assemblies, but were also occasionally seen on the promenades,
is shown by the following satirical appeal to the editor of the
journal from which we have just been quoting, and the accompanying
illustration represents the too-fascinating style of costume which
caused its writer so much concern:--
"_Wednesday, August 12, 1713._
"Notwithstanding your grave advice to the fair sex not to lay
the beauties of their necks so open, I find they mind you
so little that we young men are as much in danger as ever.
Yesterday, about seven in the evening, I took a walk with a
gentleman, just come to town, in a public walk. We had not
walked above two rounds when the spark on a sudden pretended
weariness, and as I importuned him to stay longer he turned
short, and, pointing out a celebrated beauty, 'What,' said he,
'do you think I am made of, that I could bear the sight of such
snowy beauties? She is intolerably handsome.' Upon this we
parted, and I resolved to take a little more air in the garden,
yet avoid the danger, by casting my eyes downwards; but, to my
unspeakable surprise, discovered in the same fair creature the
finest ankle and prettiest foot that ever fancy imagined. If the
petticoats as well as the stays thus diminish, what shall we
do, dear Mentor? It is neither safe to look at the head nor the
feet of the charmer. Whither shall we direct our eyes? I need
not trouble you with my description of her, but I beg you would
consider that your wards are frail and mortal.
"Your most obedient servant,
"EPERNECTISES."
[Illustration: LOW BODIES AND CURTAILED CRINOLINE.]
There is no source, perhaps, from which a clearer view of the fashions
of this period, and mode of thought then entertained concerning them,
could be obtained than the antiquated journal we have just quoted
from. The opinions therein expressed, and the system of reasoning
adopted by some of the contributors to its columns, are so singularly
quaint that we cannot resist giving the reader the benefit of them.
The happy vein of philosophy possessed by the writer of the following
letter must have made the world a mere pleasure-garden, through which
he wandered at his own sweet will, "king of the universe:"--
"GUARDIAN, _Friday, May 8th, 1713_.
"When I walk the streets I use the foregoing natural maxim
(viz., that he is the true possessor of a thing who enjoys it,
and not he that owns it without the enjoyment of it) to convince
myself that I have a property in the gay part of all the gilt
chariots that I meet, which I regard as amusements designed to
delight the eye and the imagination of those kind people who sit
in them gaily attired only to please me. I have a real and they
only an imaginary pleasure from their exterior embellishments.
Upon the same principle I have discovered that I am the natural
proprietor of all the diamond necklaces, the crosses and stars,
brocades and embroidered cloths which I see at a play or
birthnight, as giving more natural delight to the spectator than
to those who wear them; and I look on the beaux and ladies as
so many paroquets in an aviary, or tulips in a garden, designed
purely for my diversion. A gallery of pictures, a cabinet, or
library that I have free access to, I think my own. In a word,
all that I desire is the use of things, let who will have the
keeping of them. By which maxim I am growing one of the richest
men in Great Britain, with this difference, that I am not a prey
to my own cares or the envy of others."
The reply to the foregoing letter by a lady of fashion, written with a
strong dash of satire, is equally curious in its way, as it shows the
great importance attached to a pleasing and attractive exterior:--
"_To the Editor of the_ GUARDIAN.
"_Tuesday, May 19th, 1713._
"SIR,--I am a lady of birth and fortune, but never knew
till last Thursday that the splendour of my equipage was so
beneficial to my country. I will not deny that I have dressed
for some years out of the pride of my heart, but am very glad
that you have so far settled my conscience in that particular
that now I can look upon my vanities as so many virtues, since
I am satisfied that my person and garb give pleasure to my
fellow-creatures. I shall not think the three hours' business I
usually devote to my toilette below the dignity of a rational
soul. I am content to suffer great torment from my stays that
my shape may appear graceful to the eyes of others, and often
mortify myself with fasting rather than my fatness should give
distaste to any man in England. I am making up a rich brocade
for the benefit of mankind, and design in a little time to treat
the town with a thousand pounds' worth of jewellery. I have
ordered my chariot to be newly painted for your use and the
world's, and have prevailed upon my husband to present you with
a pair of Flanders mares, by driving them every evening round
the ring. Gay pendants for my ears, a costly cross for my neck,
a diamond of the best water for my finger shall be purchased,
at any rate, to enrich you, and I am resolved to be a patriot
in every limb. My husband will not scruple to oblige me in
these trifles, since I have persuaded him, from your scheme,
that pin-money is only so much money set for charitable uses.
You see, sir, how expensive you are to me, and I hope you will
esteem me accordingly, especially when I assure you that I am,
as far as you can see me,
"Entirely yours,
"CLEORA."
The tight lacing and tremendously stiff corsets of the time were also
the subjects of satirical remark in some quarters, and were upheld in
others, as the two following letters, copied from the _Guardian_ of
1713, will show:--
"_Thursday, June 18th, 1713._
"SIR,--don't know at what nice point you fix the
bloom of a young lady, but I am one who can just look back on
fifteen. My father dying three years ago left me under the
care and direction of my mother, with a fortune not profusely
great, yet such as might demand a very handsome settlement
if ever proposals of marriage should be offered. My mother,
after the usual time of retired mourning was over, was so
affectionately indulgent to me as to take me along with her in
all her visits, but still, not thinking she gratified my youth
enough, permitted me further to go with my relatives to all
the publick cheerful but innocent entertainments, where she
was too reserved to appear herself. The two first years of my
teens were easy, gay, and delightful; every one caressed me,
the old ladies told me how finely I grew, and the young ones
were proud of my company; but when the third year had a little
advanced, my relations used to tell my mother that pretty Miss
Clarey was shot up into a woman. The gentlemen began now not
to let their eyes glance over me, and in most places I found
myself distinguished, but observed the more I grew into the
esteem of their sex, the more I lost the favour of my own;
some of those whom I had been familiar with grew cold and
indifferent; others mistook by design my meaning, made me speak
what I never thought, and so, by degrees, took occasion to
break off acquaintance. There were several little insignificant
reflections cast upon me, as being a lady of a great many
acquaintances, and such like, which I seemed not to take notice
of. But my mother coming home about a week ago, told me there
was a scandal spread about town by my enemies that would at once
ruin me for ever for a beauty. I earnestly intreated her to know
it; she refused me, but yesterday it discovered itself. Being in
an assembly of gentlemen and ladies, one of the gentlemen, who
had been very facetious to several of the ladies, at last turned
to me. 'And as for you, madam. Prior has already given us your
character:--
"'That air and harmony of shape express,
Fine by degrees and beautifully less.'
"I perceived immediately a malignant smile display itself in the
countenance of some of the ladies, which they seconded with a
scornful flutter of the fan, till one of them, unable any longer
to contain herself, asked the gentleman if he did not remember
what Congreve said about Aurelia, for she thought it mighty
pretty. He made no answer, but instantly repeated the verses--
"'The Mulcibers who in the Minories sweat,
And massive bars on stubborn anvils beat,
Deformed themselves, yet forge those stays of steel,
Which arm Aurelia with a shape to kill.'
"This was no sooner over but it was easily discernable what an
ill-natured satisfaction most of the company took, and the more
pleasure they showed by dwelling upon the two last lines, the
more they increased my trouble and confusion. And now, sir,
after this tedious account, what would you advise me to? Is
there no way to be cleared of these malicious calumnies? What
is beauty worth that makes the possessed thus unhappy? Why was
Nature so lavish of her gifts to me as to make her kindness
prove a cruelty? They tell me my shape is delicate, my eyes
sparkling, my lips I know not what, my cheeks, forsooth, adorned
with a just mixture of the rose and lillie; but I wish this face
was barely not disagreeable, this voice harsh and unharmonious,
these limbs only not deformed, and then perhaps I might live
easie and unmolested, and neither raise love and admiration in
the men, nor scandal and hatred in the women.
"Your very humble servant,
"CLARINA."
"_Editor's Reply to Letter of Thursday, June 18th, 1713._
"The best answer I can make my fair correspondent is, that she
ought to comfort herself with this consideration, that those
who talk thus of her know it is false, but wish to make others
believe it is true. 'Tis not they think you deformed, but are
vexed that they themselves were not so nicely framed. If you
will take an old man's advice, laugh and not be concerned at
them; they have attained what they endeavoured if they make you
uneasie, for it is envy that has made them. I would not have you
with your shape one fiftieth part of an inch disproportioned,
nor desire your face might be impoverished with the ruin of
half a feature, though numbers of remaining beauties might make
the loss insensible; but take courage, go into the brightest
assemblies, and the world will quickly confess it to be scandal.
Thus Plato, hearing it was asserted by some persons that he was
a very bad man--'I shall take care,' said he, 'to live so that
nobody will believe them.'"
The milliners and lady's-maids of the time were expected to fully
understand all matters relating to the training of the figure.
A writer of this period, in speaking of the requisite accomplishments
of a mantua-maker, says--"She must know how to hide all the defects in
the proportions of the body, and must be able to mould the shape by
the stays so as to preserve the intestines, that while she corrects
the body she may not interfere with the pleasures of the palate."
Some difference of opinion has existed as to the period at which the
word "stays" was first used to indicate an article of dress of the
nature of the corset or bodice. It is evident that the term must have
been perfectly familiar long anterior to 1713, as constant use is made
of it in the letters we have just given. Gay, who wrote about 1720,
also avails himself of it in _The Toilette_--
"I own her taper form is made to please,
Yet if you saw her unconfined by _stays_!"
The word "boddice," or "bodice," was not unfrequently spelt _bodies_
by old authors, amongst whom may be mentioned Ben Jonson, who wrote
about 1600, and mentions
"The whalebone man
That quilts the _bodies_ I have leave to span."
[Illustration]