CHAPTER I.

This ebook was prepared by Les Bowler, St. Ives, Dorset.

VISIT TO THE HOLY LAND, EGYPT, AND ITALY

[Illustration 1. Frontispiece:--JERUSALEM. ill1.jpg]

By Madame Ida Pfeiffer.

Translated from the German by H. W. Dulcken.

[Illustration 2. Title-page:--NAZARETH. ill2.jpg]

PREFACE BY THE VIENNA PUBLISHER

For two centuries the princes and nations of the West were

accustomed to wander towards the land of the morning. In vain was

the noblest blood poured forth in streams in the effort to wrest the

country of our heavenly Teacher from the grasp of the infidel; and

though the Christian Europe of the present day forbears to renew a

struggle which, considering the strength that has been gradually

increasing for the last six hundred years, might prove an easy one,

we cannot wonder that millions of the votaries of Christianity

should cherish an earnest longing to wander in the paths the

Redeemer has trod, and to view with their own eyes the traces of the

Saviour's progress from the cradle to the grave.

In the generality of cases, however, the hardships, dangers, and

difficulties of such a journey were sufficient to overthrow the

bravest resolution; and thus the wishes of the majority remained

unfulfilled.

Few _men_ were found to possess the degree of strength and endurance

requisite for the carrying out of such an undertaking; but that a

delicate lady of the higher classes, a native of Vienna, should have

the heroism to do what thousands of men failed to achieve, seemed

almost incredible.

In her earliest youth she earnestly desired to perform this journey;

descriptions of the Holy Land were perused by her with peculiar

interest, and a book of Eastern travel had more charms for her than

the most glowing accounts of Paris or London.

It was not, however, until our Authoress had reached a riper age,

and had finished the education of her sons, that she succeeded in

carrying into effect the ardent aspiration of her youth.

On the 2d of March, 1842, she commenced her journey alone, without

companions, but fully prepared to bear every ill, to bid defiance to

every danger, and to combat every difficulty. That this undertaking

should have succeeded may almost be looked upon as a wonder.

Far from desiring publicity, she merely kept a diary, in order to

retain the recollections of her tour during her later life, and to

impart to her nearest relatives the story of her fortunes. Every

evening, though often greatly exhausted with heat, thirst, and the

hardships of travel, she never failed to make notes in pencil of the

occurrences of the day, frequently using a sand-mound or the back of

a camel as a table, while the other members of the caravan lay

stretched around her, completely tired out.

It was in the house of my friend Halm that I first heard of this

remarkable woman, at a time when she had not yet completed her

journey; and every subsequent account of Madame Pfeiffer increased

my desire to make her acquaintance.

In manners and appearance I found her to resemble many other women

who have distinguished themselves by fortitude, firmness of soul,

and magnanimity; and who are in private life the most simple and

unaffected, the most modest, and consequently also the most

agreeable of beings.

My request to read our Authoress's journal was granted with some

timidity; and I am ready to assert that seldom has a book so

irresistibly attracted me, or so completely fixed my attention from

beginning to end, as this.

The simple and unadorned relation of facts, the candour, combined

with strong sound sense, which appear throughout, might put to shame

the bombastic striving after originality of many a modern author.

The scheme and execution of the work are complete and agreeable;

strict truth shines forth from every page, and no one can doubt but

that so pure and noble a mind must see things in a right point of

view. This circumstance is sufficient in itself to raise the book

above many descriptions of travel to the Holy Land, whose authors,

trusting to the fact that their assertions could not easily be

disproved, have indulged their fancy, seeking to impart interest to

their works by the relation of imaginary dangers, and by

exaggeration of every kind, for the sake of gaining praise and

admiration. Many such men might blush with shame on reading this

journal of a simple, truth-loving woman.

After much trouble I succeeded in persuading the Authoress to allow

her journal to appear in print.

My efforts were called forth by the desire to furnish the reading

public, and particularly the female portion, with a very interesting

and attractive, and at the same time a strictly authentic picture of

the Holy Land, and of Madame Pfeiffer's entire journey.

CONTENTS

CHAPTER I. Departure from Vienna--Scene on board the steamer--

Hainburg--Presburg--The "Coronation-mount"--Pesth--Ofen--The steamer

Galata--Mohacs--The fortress Peterwardein--Discomfort and bad

management on board the steamer--Semlin--Belgrade--Pancsova--

Austrian soldiers--The rock Babakay--Drenkova--Falls of Danube--Alt-

Orsova--The "Iron Gate"--Cattle-breeding--Callafat--Vexatious delay

CHAPTER II. Giurgewo--Interior of the town--Braila--Sanitary

precautions--Galatz--Scarcity of good water--Ridiculous fear of the

plague--The steamer Ferdinand--Entrance into the Black Sea--Stormy

weather and sea-sickness--Arrival at Constantinople--Picturesque

appearance of the city--Mosques--The dancing Dervishes--The Sultan

and his barge--Pera--The great and little Campo--Wild dogs--Dirty

state of the streets--Preparations in case of fire

CHAPTER III. Scutari--Kaiks--The howling Dervishes--The

Achmaidon, or place of arrows--The tower in Galata--The bazaar at

Constantinople--Mosques--Slave-market--The old Serail--The

Hippodrome--Coffee-houses--Story-tellers--Excursion to Ejub--Houses,

theatres, and carriages

CHAPTER IV. Walks and drives of the townspeople--The "Sweet

Waters"--Chalcedonia--Baluklid--The great and little Campo--Feasts

in Constantinople--Anniversary of Mahomet's death--Easter holydays

of the Greeks--Gladiators and wrestlers--Excursion to Brussa--Olive-

trees--Mosques at Brussa--Stone bridge--Wild dogs--Baths and mineral

springs--Return to Constantinople

CHAPTER V. Contradictory reports--Departure from Constantinople

on board the Archduke John--Scene on the steamer--Galipoli--The

Dardanelles--Tschenekalesi and Kilidil Bahar--The field of Troy--

Tenedos--Smyrna--Halizar--The date-palm--Burnaba--The Acropolis--

Female beauty--Rhodes--Strong fortifications--Deserted appearance of

the town--Cyprus

CHAPTER VI. Arrival at Beyrout--Fellahs--Backsheesh--

Uncomfortable quarters--Saida--Tyre--St. Jean d'Acre--Caesarea--

Excursion among the ruins--Jaffa--An Eastern family--The Indian fig-

tree--An Oriental dinner--Costume of the women of Jaffa--Oppressive

heat--Gnats--Ramla--Syrian convents--Bedouins and Arabs--Kariet el

Areb, or Emmaus--The scheikh--Arrival at Jerusalem

CHAPTER VII. Residence at Jerusalem--Catholic church--The "Nuova

Casa"--Via dolorosa--Pilate's house--The Mosque Omar--Herod's house--

Church of the Holy Sepulchre--Disturbances at the Greek Easter

feasts--Knights of the Holy Sepulchre--Mount of Olives--Adventure

among the ruins--Mount of Offence--Valley of Jehosaphat--Siloam--

Mount Sion--Jeremiah's Grotto--Graves

CHAPTER VIII. Bethlehem--Rachel's grave--Convent at Bethlehem--

Beggars--Grotto of the Nativity--Solomon's cisterns--St. John's--

Franciscan church at Jerusalem--Mourning women--Eastern weddings--

Mish-mish--Excursion to the Jordan and the Dead Sea--Wilderness near

Jerusalem--Convent of St. Saba

CHAPTER IX. Ride through the wilderness to the Dead Sea--The

Dead Sea--The river Jordan--Horde of Bedouins--Arab horses--The

Sultan's well--Bivouac in the open air--Return to Jerusalem--

Bethany--Departure from Jerusalem--Jacob's grave--Nablus or Sichem--

Sebasta--Costume of Samaritan woman--Plain of Esdralon--Sagun

CHAPTER X. Arrival at Nazareth--Franciscan convent--Tabarith--

Mount Tabor--Lake of Gennesareth--Baths--Mount Carmel--Grotto of the

prophet Elijah--Acre--The pacha's harem--Oriental women--Their

listlessness and ignorance--Sur or Tyre

CHAPTER XI. River Mishmir--Saida--Arnauts--Desert-path--

Residence of Lady Hester Stanhope--Beyrout--The consul's--

Uncomfortable quarters--Sickness--The Bazaar--Vexatious delays--

Departure from Beyrout--Beautiful views--Syrian costumes--Damascus--

Aspect of the city--House of the consul

CHAPTER XII. The bazaar at Damascus--The khan--Grotto of St.

Paul--Fanaticism of the inhabitants--Departure from Damascus--The

desert--Military escort--Heliopolis or Balbeck--Stupendous ruins--

Continuation of our voyage through the desert--The plague--The

Lebanon range--Cedar-trees--Druses and Maronites--Importunate

beggars--Thievish propensities of the Arabs

CHAPTER XIII. The Lebanon--Druses and Maronites--Illness of Herr

Sattler--Djebel or Byblus--Rocky passes--Dog's-river--Return to

Beyrout--Sickness--Departure for Alexandria--Roguery of the captain--

Disagreeables on board--Limasol--Alarm of pirates--Cowardice of the

crew--Arrival at Alexandria

CHAPTER XIV. Alexandria--Keeping quarantine--Want of arrangement

in the quarantine-house--Bad water--Fumigating of the rooms--

Release--Aspect of the city--Departure by boat for Atfe--Mehemet

Ali--Arrival at Atfe--Excellence of the Nile water--Good-nature of

the Arab women--The Delta of the Nile--The Libyan desert--The

pyramids--Arrival at Cairo

CHAPTER XV. Cairo--Quarrel with the captain--Rapacity of the

beggars--The custom-house--The consulate--Aspect of Cairo--Narrow

and crowded streets--Costumes--The mad-house--Disgusting exhibition--

Joseph's well--Palace of Mehemet Ali--Dates--Mosques at Cairo--

Excursion to the pyramids of Gizeh--Gizeh--Eggs hatched by

artificial heat--Ascent of the pyramids--The sphynx--Return to Cairo

CHAPTER XVI. Christian churches at Cairo--The Esbekie-square--

Theatre--Howling dervishes--Mashdalansher, the birthday of Mahomet--

Procession and religious ceremony--Shubra--Excursion through the

desert to Suez--Hardships of the journey--Scenes in the desert--The

camel--Caravans--Mirage--The Red Sea--Suez--Bedouin Camp--Quarrel

with the camel-driver--Departure for Alexandria

CHAPTER XVII. Return to Alexandria--Egyptian burials--Catacombs of

Alexandria--Viceroy's palace--Departure from Alexandria--The steamer

Eurotas--Candia--Syra--Paros and Antiparos--The Morea--Fire on

board--Malta--Quarantine--St. Augustine's church--Clergymen--

Beggars--Costumes--Soldiers--Civita Vecchia

CHAPTER XVIII. The steamer Hercules--Syracuse--Neapolis--Ruins--

Catanea--Convent of St. Nicholas--Messina--The Duke of Calabria--

Palermo--The royal palace--Church of St. Theresa--St. Ignazio--

Catacombs of the Augustine convent--Skeletons--Olivuzza--Royal villa

"Favorite"--St. Rosalia--Brutality of the Italian mob--Luxuriant

vegetation--Arrival at Naples

CHAPTER XIX. Sojourn at Naples--Sickness--Laziness of the people--

Royal palace--Rotunda--Strada Chiaga and Toledo--St. Carlo Theatre--

Largo del Castello--Medina Square--Marionettes--St. Jesu Nuovo--St.

Jesu Maggiore--St. Maria di Piedigrotta--Public gardens--Academy

"degli Studii"--Cathedral of St. Januarius--St. Jeronimi--St. Paula

Maggiore--St. Chiara--Baths of Nero--Solfatara--Grotto "del Cane"--

Resina--Ascent of Vesuvius--Caserta

CHAPTER XX. Caserta--Costume of the peasants--Rome--Piazza del

Popolo--Dogana--St. Peter's--Palaces--Borghese, Barberini, Colonna,

etc.--Churches--Ancient Rome--The Colliseum--Departure for Florence-

Bad weather--Picturesque scenery--Siena--Florence--Cathedral and

palaces--Departure from Florence--Bologna--Ferrara--Conclusion

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

1. JERUSALEM

2. NAZARETH

3. CHURCHYARD AT SCUTARI

4. THE DEAD SEA

5. MOUNT CARMEL

6. LEBANON

7. BALBECK

8. ISTHMUS OF SUEZ

CHAPTER I.

Departure from Vienna--Scene on board the steamer--Hainburg--

Presburg--The "Coronation-mount"--Pesth--Ofen--The steamer Galata--

Mohacs--The fortress Peterwardein--Discomfort and bad management on

board the steamer--Semlin--Belgrade--Pancsova--Austrian soldiers--

The rock Babakay--Drenkova--Falls of the Danube--Alt-Orsova--The

"Iron Gate"--Cattle-breeding--Callafat--Vexatious delay.

I had for years cherished the wish to undertake a journey to the

Holy Land; years are, indeed, required to familiarise one with the

idea of so hazardous an enterprise. When, therefore, my domestic

arrangements at length admitted of my absence for at least a year,

my chief employment was to prepare myself for this journey. I read

many works bearing on the subject, and was moreover fortunate enough

to make the acquaintance of a gentleman who had travelled in the

Holy Land some years before. I was thus enabled to gain much oral

information and advice respecting the means of prosecuting my

dangerous pilgrimage.

My friends and relations attempted in vain to turn me from my

purpose by painting, in the most glowing colours, all the dangers

and difficulties which await the traveller in those regions. "Men,"

they said, "were obliged gravely to consider if they had physical

strength to endure the fatigues of such a journey, and strength of

mind bravely to face the dangers of the plague, the climate, the

attacks of insects, bad diet, etc. And to think of a woman's

venturing alone, without protection of any kind, into the wide

world, across sea and mountain and plain,--it was quite

preposterous." This was the opinion of my friends.

I had nothing to advance in opposition to all this but my firm

unchanging determination. My trust in Providence gave me calmness

and strength to set my house in every respect in order. I made my

will, and arranged all my worldly affairs in such a manner that, in

the case of my death (an event which I considered more probable than

my safe return), my family should find every thing perfectly

arranged.

And thus, on the 22d of March 1842, I commenced my journey from

Vienna.

At one o'clock in the afternoon I drove to the Kaisermuhlen

(Emperor's Mills), from which place the steamboats start for Pesth.

I was joyfully surprised by the presence of several of my relations

and friends, who wished to say farewell once more. The parting was

certainly most bitter, for the thought involuntarily obtruded

itself, "Should we ever meet again in this world?"

Our mournful meditations were in some degree disturbed by a loud

dispute on board the vessel. At the request of a gentleman present,

one of the passengers was compelled, instead of flying, as he had

intended, with bag and baggage to Hungary, to return to Vienna in

company of the police. It appeared he owed the gentleman 1300

florins, and had wished to abscond, but was luckily overtaken before

the departure of the boat. This affair was hardly concluded when

the bell rang, the wheels began to revolve, and too soon, alas, my

dear ones were out of sight!

I had but few fellow-passengers. The weather was indeed fine and

mild; but the season was not far enough advanced to lure travellers

into the wide world, excepting men of business, and those who had

cosmopolitan ideas, like myself. Most of those on board were going

only to Presburg, or at farthest to Pesth. The captain having

mentioned that a woman was on board who intended travelling to

Constantinople, I was immediately surrounded by curious gazers. A

gentleman who was bound to the same port stepped forward, and

offered his services in case I should ever stand in need of them; he

afterwards frequently took me under his protection.

The fine mild weather changed to cold and wind as we got fairly out

into the great Danube. I wrapped myself in my cloak, and remained

on deck, in order to see the scenery between Vienna and Presburg,

which, no doubt, appears lovely enough when nature is clad in the

garment of spring; but now I only saw leafless trees and fallow

ground--a dreary picture of winter.

Hainburg with its old castle on a rock, Theben with its remarkable

fortress, and farther on the large free city of Presburg, have all a

striking appearance.

In three hours' time we reached Presburg, and landed in the

neighbourhood of the Coronation-hill, an artificial mound, on which

the king must stand in his royal robes, and brandish his sword

towards the four quarters of the heavens, as a token that he is

ready to defend his kingdom against all enemies, from whatever

direction they may approach. Not far from this hill is situate the

handsome inn called the "Two Green Trees," where the charges are as

high, if not higher, than in Vienna. Until we have passed Pesth,

passengers going down the river are not allowed to remain on board

through the night.

March 23d.

This morning we continued our journey at six o'clock. Immediately

below Presburg the Danube divides into two arms, forming the fertile

island of Schutt, which is about forty-six miles long and twenty-

eight in breadth. Till we reach Gran the scenery is monotonous

enough, but here it improves. Beautiful hills and several mountains

surround the place, imparting a charm of variety to the landscape.

In the evening, at about seven o'clock, we arrived at Pesth.

Unfortunately it was already quite dark. The magnificent houses, or

rather palaces, skirting the left bank of the Danube, and the

celebrated ancient fortress and town of Ofen on the right, form a

splendid spectacle, and invite the traveller to a longer sojourn.

As I had passed some days at Pesth several years before, I now only

stayed there for one night.

As the traveller must change steamers here, it behoves him to keep a

careful eye upon the luggage he has not delivered up at the office

in Vienna.

I put up at the "Hunting-horn," a fine hotel, but ridiculously

expensive. A little back room cost me 45 kreutzers (about one

shilling and eightpence) for one night.

The whole day I had felt exceedingly unwell. A violent headache,

accompanied by nausea and fever, made me fear the approach of a fit

of illness which would interrupt my journey. These symptoms were

probably a consequence of the painful excitement of parting with my

friends, added to the change of air. With some difficulty I gained

my modest chamber, and immediately went to bed. My good

constitution was luckily proof against the attacks of all enemies,

and waking the next morning, on

March 24th,

in tolerable health, I betook myself on board our new steamboat the

Galata, of sixty-horse power: this boat did not, however, appear to

me so tidy and neat as the Marianna, in which we had proceeded from

Vienna to Pesth. Our journey was a rapid one; at ten o'clock in the

morning we were already at Feldvar, a place which seems at a

distance to be of some magnitude, but which melts away like a soap-

bubble on a nearer approach. By two o'clock we had reached Paks;

here, as at all other places of note, we stopped for a quarter of an

hour. A boat rows off from the shore, bringing and fetching back

passengers with such marvellous speed, that you have scarcely

finished the sentence you are saying to your neighbour before he has

vanished. There is no time even to say farewell.

At about eight o'clock in the evening we reached the market-town of

Mohacs, celebrated as the scene of two battles. The fortress here

is used as a prison for criminals. We could distinguish nothing

either of the fortress or the town. It was already night when we

arrived, and at two o'clock in the morning of

March 25th

we weighed anchor. I was assured, however, that I had lost nothing

by this haste.

Some hours afterwards, our ship suddenly struck with so severe a

shock, that all hastened on deck to see what was the matter. Our

steersman, who had most probably been more asleep than awake, had

given the ship an unskilful turn, in consequence of which, one of

the paddles was entangled with some trunks of trees projecting above

the surface of the water. The sailors hurried into the boats, the

engine was backed, and after much difficulty we were once more

afloat.

Stopping for a few moments at Dalina and Berkara, we passed the

beautiful ruin of Count Palffy's castle at about two o'clock. The

castle of Illok, situate on a hill, and belonging to Prince

Odescalchi, presents a still more picturesque appearance.

At about four o'clock we landed near the little free town of

Neusatz, opposite the celebrated fortress of Peterwardein, the

outworks of which extend over a tongue of land stretching far out

into the Danube. Of the little free town of Neusatz we could not

see much, hidden as it is by hills which at this point confine the

bed of the river. The Danube is here crossed by a bridge of boats,

and this place also forms the military boundary of Austria. The

surrounding landscape appeared sufficiently picturesque; the little

town of Karlowitz, lying at a short distance from the shore, among

hills covered with vineyards, has a peculiarly good effect. Farther

on, however, as far as Semlin, the scenery is rather monotonous.

Here the Danube already spreads itself out to a vast breadth,

resembling rather a lake than a river.

At nine o'clock at night we reached the city of Semlin, in the

vicinity of which we halted. Semlin is a fortified place, situated

at the junction of the Save with the Danube; it contains 13,000

inhabitants, and is the last Austrian town on the right bank of the

Danube.

On approaching Semlin, a few small cannons were fired off on board

our boat. Unfortunately the steward did not receive notice of this

event early enough to allow of his opening the windows, consequently

one was shattered: this was a serious misfortune for us, as the

temperature had sunk to zero, and all the landscape around was

covered with snow. Before leaving Vienna, the cabin stove had been

banished from its place, as the sun had sent forth its mild beams

for a few days, and a continuance of the warm weather was rashly

relied on. On the whole, I would not advise any traveller to take a

second-class berth on board a steamer belonging to the Viennese

company. A greater want of order than we find in these vessels

could scarcely be met with. The traveller whose funds will not

permit of his paying first-class fare will do better to content

himself with a third-class, i.e. a deck-passage, particularly if he

purposes journeying no farther than Mohacs. If the weather is fine,

it is more agreeable to remain on deck, watching the panorama of the

Danube as it glides past. Should the day be unfavourable, the

traveller can go, without ceremony, into the second-class cabin, for

no one makes a distinction between the second and third-class

places. During the daytime, at any rate, it is quite as agreeable

to remain on deck as to venture below. Travelling down the river

from Pesth, the women are compelled to pass the night in the same

cabin with the men; an arrangement as uncomfortable as it is

indecorous. I afterwards had some experience of steamers belonging

to the Austrian Lloyds, on whose vessels I always found a proper

separation of the two sexes, and a due regard for the comfort of

second-class passengers.

The cold was so severe, that we would gladly have closed every

window, but for the close atmosphere engendered by the number of

poor people, mostly Jews, who form the larger portion of passengers

on board a Hungarian steamer. When the weather is unfavourable,

these men are accustomed to hasten from their third-class places to

those of the second class, where their presence renders it

immediately desirable to open every outlet for purposes of

ventilation. What the traveller has to endure on board these

vessels would scarcely be believed. Uncushioned benches serve for

seats by day and for beds by night. A separation of the two sexes

is nowhere attempted, not even on board the Ferdinand, in which you

enter the Black Sea, and are exposed to the merciless attacks of

sea-sickness.

Considering the high rate of passage-money demanded on this journey,

I really think the traveller might expect better accommodation. The

first-class to Constantinople costs 120 florins, {23} the second 85

florins, exclusive of provisions, and without reckoning the hotel

expenses at Presburg.

March 26th.

Last night was not a period of rest, but of noise for us travellers.

Not one of us could close his eyes.

Semlin is a place of considerable importance as a commercial town:

above 180 cwt. of goods were unloaded here from our vessel; and in

exchange we took on board coals, wood, and wares of various

descriptions. The damaged wheel, too, had to be repaired; and every

thing was done with so much crashing and noise, that we almost

imagined the whole steamer was coming to pieces. Added to this, the

cold wind drove in continually through the broken pane, and made the

place a real purgatory to us. At length, at six o'clock in the

morning, we got afloat once more. One advantage, however, resulted

from this fortuitous stoppage: we had a very good view of Belgrade,

a town of 20,000 inhabitants, situate opposite to Semlin. It is the

first Turkish fortified city in Servia.

The aspect of Belgrade is exceedingly beautiful. The fortifications

extend upwards on a rock from the Danube in the form of steps. The

city itself, with its graceful minarets, lies half a mile farther

inland. Here I saw the first mosques and minarets. The mosques, as

far as I could observe from the steamer, are built in a circular

form, not very high, and surmounted by a cupola flanked by one or

two minarets, a kind of high round pillar. The loftiest among these

buildings is the palace of Prince Milosch. From this point our

voyage becomes very interesting, presenting a rich and varied

succession of delightful landscape-views. The river is hemmed in on

either side by mountains, until it spreads itself forth free and

unrestrained, in the neighbourhood of Pancsova, to a breadth of 800

fathoms.

Pancsova, on the left bank of the Danube, in the territory of

Banata, is a military station.

As the stoppages are only for a few moments, little opportunity is

afforded of seeing the interior of the towns, or of visiting most of

the places at which we touch. At such times all is hurry and

confusion; suddenly the bell rings, the planks are withdrawn, and

the unlucky stranger who has loitered on board for a few moments is

obliged to proceed with us to the next station.

At Neusatz this happened to a servant, in consequence of his

carrying his master's luggage into the cabin instead of merely

throwing it down on the deck. The poor man was conveyed on to

Semlin, and had to travel on foot for a day and a half to regain his

home. A very pleasant journey of two hours from Pancsova brought us

to the Turkish fortress Semendria, the situation of which is truly

beautiful. The numerous angles of its walls and towers, built in

the Moorish style, impart to this place a peculiar charm. As a

rule, the Turkish fortresses are remarkable for picturesque effect.

But the villages, particularly those on the Servian shore, had the

same poverty-stricken look I had frequently noticed in Galicia.

Wretched clay huts, thatched with straw, lay scattered around; and

far and wide not a tree or a shrub appeared to rejoice the eye of

the traveller or of the sojourner in these parts, under the shade of

which the poor peasant might recruit his weary frame, while it would

conceal from the eye of the traveller, in some degree, the poverty

and nakedness of habitations on which no feeling mind can gaze

without emotions of pity.

The left bank of the river belongs to Hungary, and is called the

"Banat;" it presents an appearance somewhat less desolate. Much,

however, remains to be desired; and the poverty that reigns around

is here more to be wondered at, from the fact that this strip of

land is so rich in the productions of nature as to have obtained the

name of the "Garner of Hungary."

On the Austrian side of the Danube sentries are posted at every two

or three hundred paces--an arrangement which has been imitated by

the governments on the left bank, and is carried out to the point

where the river empties itself into the Black Sea.

It would, however, be erroneous to suppose that these soldiers mount

guard in their uniforms. They take up their positions, for a week

at a time, in their wretched tattered garments; frequently they are

barefoot, and their huts look like stables. I entered some of these

huts to view the internal arrangements. They could scarcely have

been more simple. In one corner I found a hearth; in another, an

apology for a stove, clumsily fashioned out of clay. An unsightly

hole in the wall, stopped with paper instead of glass, forms the

window; the furniture is comprised in a single wooden bench.

Whatever the inhabitant requires in the way of provisions he must

bring with him; for this he is allowed by the government to

cultivate the land.

Throughout the Russian territory the soldiers at least wear uniform.

Our journey becomes more and more charming. Frequently the mighty

river rushes foaming and roaring past the rocks, which seem scarcely

to allow it a passage; at other times it glides serenely onwards.

At every turn we behold new beauties, and scarcely know on which

side to turn our eager eyes. Meanwhile the ship sails swiftly on,

gliding majestically through wildly romantic scenery.

At one o'clock in the afternoon we reached Pasiest, where there is

nothing to be seen but a large store of coals for the steamers and a

few huts. Of the town itself nothing can be distinguished.

A couple of miles below Pasiest we enjoy an imposing spectacle. It

is the solitary rock Babakay, rising from the midst of the waters.

Together with the beautiful ruin Golumbacz, on the Servian shore, it

forms a magnificent view.

March 27th.

How unfortunate it is that all advantages are so seldom found

combined! We are now travelling amid glorious scenery, which we

hoped should recompense us for the manifold discomforts we have

hitherto endured; but the weather is unpropitious. The driving snow

sends us all into the cabin. The Danube is so fiercely agitated by

the stormy wind, that it rises into waves like a sea. We are

suffering lamentably from cold; unable to warm ourselves, we stand

gazing ruefully at the place where the stove stood--once upon a

time.

At four o'clock we reached Drenkova without accident, but completely

benumbed: we hurried into the inn built by the steamboat company,

where we found capital fare, a warm room, and tolerably comfortable

beds. This was the first place we had reached since leaving Pesth

at which we could thoroughly warm and refresh ourselves.

At Drenkova itself there is nothing to be seen but the inn just

mentioned and a barrack for soldiers. We were here shewn the vessel

which was wrecked, with passengers on board, in 1839, in a journey

up the Danube. Eight persons who happened to be in the cabin lost

their lives, and those only who were on deck were saved.

March 28th.

Early in the morning we embarked on board the Tunte, a vessel

furnished with a cabin. The bed of the Danube is here more and more

hemmed in by mountains and rocks, so that in some places it is not

above eighty fathoms broad, and glides with redoubled swiftness

towards its goal, the Pontus Euxinus or Black Sea.

On account of the falls which it is necessary to pass, between

Drenkova and Fetislav, the steamer must be changed for a small

sailing vessel. The voyage down the stream could indeed be

accomplished without danger, but the return would be attended with

many difficulties. The steamers, therefore, remain behind at

Drenkova, and passengers are conveyed down the river in barks, and

_upwards_ (since the accident of 1839) in good commodious carriages.

To-day the cold was quite as severe as it had been yesterday so that

but for the politeness of a fellow-passenger, who lent me his bunda

(great Hungarian fur), I should have been compelled to remain in the

little cabin, and should thus have missed the most interesting

points of the Danube. As it was, however, I wrapped myself from

head to foot in the fur cloak, took my seat on a bench outside the

cabin, and had full leisure to store my memory with a succession of

lovely scenery, presenting almost the appearance of a series of lake

views, which continued equally picturesque until we had almost

reached Alt-Orsova.

A couple of miles below Drenkova, near Islas, the sailors suddenly

cried, "The first fall!" I looked up in a fever of expectation.

The water was rising in small waves, the stream ran somewhat faster,

and a slight rushing sound was to be heard. If I had not been told

that the Danube forms a waterfall here, I should certainly never

have suspected it to be the case. Between Lenz and Krems I did not

find either the rocks or the power of the stream much more

formidable. We had, however, a high tide, a circumstance which

diminishes both the danger of the journey and the sublimity of the

view. The numerous rocky points, peering threateningly forth at low

tide, among which the steersman must pick his way with great care,

were all hidden from our sight. We glided safely over them, and in

about twenty minutes had left the first fall behind us. The two

succeeding falls are less considerable.

On the Austro-Wallachian side a road extends over a distance of

fourteen to sixteen miles, frequently strengthened with masonry, and

at some points hewn out of the solid rock. In the midst of this

road, on a high wall of rock, we see the celebrated "Veteran Cave,"

one of the most impregnable points on the banks of the Danube. It

is surrounded by redoubts, and is admirably calculated to command

the passage of the river. This cave is said to be sufficiently

spacious to contain 500 men. So far back as the time of the Romans

it was already used as a point of defence for the Danube. Some five

miles below it we notice the "Trajan's Tablet," hewn out of a

protruding rock.

On the Turco-Servian side the masses of rock jut out so far into the

stream, that no room is left for a footway. Here the famous

Trajan's Road once existed. No traces of this work remain, save

that the traveller notices, for fifteen or twenty miles, holes cut

here and there in the rock. In these holes strong trunks of trees

were fastened; these supported the planks of which the road is said

to have been formed.

At eleven in the forenoon we reached Alt-Orsova, the last Austrian

town on the military frontier of Banata or Wallachia. We were

obliged to remain here for half a day.

The town has rather a pretty effect, being composed mostly of new

houses. The house belonging to the steamboat company is

particularly remarkable. It is not, however, devoted to the

accommodation of travellers, as at Drenkova. Here, as at Presburg

and Pesth, each passenger is required to pay for his night's

expenses,--an arrangement which I could not help finding somewhat

strange, inasmuch as every passenger is made to pay twice; namely,

for his place on the steamer and for his room in the inn.

It was Sunday when we arrived, and I saw many people proceeding to

church. The peasants are dressed tolerably neatly and well. Both

men and women wear long garments of blue cloth. The women have on

their heads large handkerchiefs of white linen, which hang down

their backs, and on their feet stout boots; the men wear round felt

hats, and sandals made of the bark of trees.

March 29th.

After having completely refreshed ourselves at the good inn called

the "Golden Stag," we this morning embarked on a new craft, the

Saturnus, which is only covered in overhead, and is open on all

sides.

So soon as a traveller has stepped upon this vessel he is looked

upon as unclean, and may not go on shore without keeping quarantine:

an officer accompanied us as far as Galatz.

Immediately below Alt-Orsova we entirely quit the Austrian

territory.

We are now brought nearer every moment to the most dangerous part of

the river, the "Iron Gate," called by the Turks Demir kaju. Half an

hour before we reached the spot, the rushing sound of the water

announced the perilous proximity. Numerous reefs of rocks here

traverse the stream, and the current runs eddying among them.

We passed this dangerous place in about fifteen minutes. Here, at

the Iron Gate, the high tide befriended us, as it did at the former

falls.

I found these falls, and indeed almost every thing we passed, far

below the anticipations I had formed from reading descriptions,

frequently of great poetic beauty. I wish to represent every thing

as I found it, as it appeared before my eyes; without adornment

indeed, but truly.

After passing the Iron Gate we come to a village, in the

neighbourhood of which some fragments of the Trajan's Bridge can be

discerned at low water.

The country now becomes flatter, particularly on the left bank,

where extend the immense plains of Wallachia, and the eye finds no

object on which it can rest. On the right hand rise terrace-like

rows of hills and mountains, and the background is bounded by the

sharply-defined lines of the Balkan range, rendered celebrated by

the passage of the Russians in 1829. The villages, scattered thinly

along the banks, become more and more miserable; they rather

resemble stables for cattle than human dwellings. The beasts remain

in the open fields, though the climate does not appear to be much

milder than with us in Austria; for to-day, nearly at the beginning

of April, the thermometer stood one degree below zero, and yesterday

we had only five degrees of warmth (reckoning by Reaumur). {30}

The expeditious and easy manner in which cattle are here declared to

be free from the plague also struck me as remarkable. When the

creatures are brought from an infected place to one pronounced

healthy, the ship is brought to some forty or fifty paces from the

shore, and each animal is thrown into the water and driven towards

the bank, where people are waiting to receive it. After this simple

operation the beasts are considered free from infectious matter.

Cattle-rearing seems to be here carried on to a considerable extent.

Everywhere I noticed large herds of horned beasts and many

buffaloes. Numerous flocks of goats and sheep also appear.

On the Saturnus we travelled at the most for two hours, after which

we embarked, opposite the fortress of Fetislav, on board the steamer

Zriny.

At five o'clock in the evening we passed the fortress of Widdin,

opposite which we stopped, in the neighbourhood of the town of

Callafat. It was intended merely to land goods here, and then to

proceed immediately on our voyage; but the agent was nowhere to be

found, and so we poor travellers were made the victims of this

carelessness, and compelled to remain here at anchor all night.

March 30th.

As the agent had not yet made his appearance, the captain had no

choice but to leave the steward behind to watch over the goods. At

half-past six in the morning the engines were at length set in

motion, and after a very agreeable passage of six hours we reached

Nicopolis.

All the Turkish fortresses on the Danube are situated on the right

bank, mostly amid beautiful scenery. The larger towns and villages

are surrounded by gardens and trees, which give them a very pleasant

appearance. The interior of these towns, however, is said not to be

quite so inviting as one would suppose from a distant view, for it

is asserted that dirty narrow streets, dilapidated houses, etc.,

offend the stranger's sight at every step. We did not land at any

of these fortresses or towns; for us the right bank of the river was

a forbidden paradise; so we only saw what was beautiful, and escaped

being disenchanted.

Rather late in the evening we cast anchor opposite a village of no

note.