A MANOR IN TOURAINE A MANOR IN TOURAINE

(LA COMMANDERIE DE BALLAN)

1903

I

An old irregular house, a long grey line in the hollow, founded by the

Templars some eight hundred years ago and finished yesterday. In 1189,

Henry II. of England lay there for a night, very sick, on his way to die

at Chinon. The house was then a Commanderie of the Knights-Templar: we

know how they perished! In all ages, I think, patriotism in France has

shown two sides--two faces, if you will; the one aristocratic, desiring

the advancement of the nation by means of an _élite_, a chosen few, to

whose perfection the common sort was to be sacrificed; the other,

essentially popular, full of dreams and visions, plotting a general

happiness and justice made absolute on earth. The Templars were of the

former party. Early in the fourteenth century, a democratic king made a

clean sweep of them, confiscated their wealth, and left our Commanderie

to bear an empty name. Doubtless, at the moment, King Philip was full of

virtuous schemes. A volume of documents, edited by Renan, shows the wise

uses to which the French Government intended to put this lucky potful of

treasure: there is a plan for popular education, elaborated by a

certain Pierre Du Bois, which we might read to-day, with colleges for

women, scholarships for lady doctors, an Order of Nursing Sisters to be

sent to the colonies--all strangely modern for 1306. High schools for

boys and girls, with special facilities for studying the natural and

moral sciences, were to be established in the existing Commanderies. But

nothing came of it, of course; and no one knows exactly what hole in

fourteenth-century finance was stopped by the nuggets of the unfortunate

Knights-Templar.

Our Commanderie remained a Commanderie. It was handed over to the

Knights of Malta. So much and no more do we know of its fate from the

time of Philip the Fair till the French Revolution. For five hundred

years a mist envelops it. The nineteenth century was to raise its

fortunes.

One of Napoloen’s marshals had a son--himself a prince and a

soldier--unhappily married to a lady of unattractive virtue. A nervous,

artistic, irascible man, he went about still seeking his ideal, _circuit

rudens, quærens quem devoret_. He found it, unfortunately for her, in

the maiden daughter of one of his old friends. Often have I heard of a

certain dinner-party given by the girl’s father--an old general--in

honour of the prince, and how the guests waited in the stiff yellow

Empire _salon_, where the clock on the chimney-piece struck, first the

half-hour, then the hour; and yet the prince never appeared; and still

the young hostess lingered in her pressing-room. At last the dreadful

truth burst upon the hungry and anxious company--they had eloped

together!

Save for this one great slip in conduct, the lady was a saint--a mute

inglorious George Eliot. She reclaimed her lover, whose courses up to

that time had been of the most devious, and showed him the sweetness of

a calm, domestic life. She even reconciled him with his virtuous spouse,

and if, as I fear, she broke her father’s heart, she lived to be

blessed by the family she had outraged. Society in France still bore

traces of the recent upheaval of the Revolution; the rule of morals was

relaxed, and passion was held a great excuse. The lady’s character and

her lover’s rank and fidelity combined to attenuate their fault: people

ended by thinking of her as a sort of morganatic wife. She would say

sometimes to her partner in shame: “My dear, you must not neglect the

good princess. Remember she has always the first claim on your

attention.” If, thus despatched to his duties, he stayed too long at

home, the prince’s lawful helpmeet would remark one day: “_Mon ami_, it

is a long time since you looked after your plantations at the

Commanderie.” There is a beautiful old romance by Marie de France called

_Eliduc, or, The Man with Two Wives_. With no less gracious a courtesy,

no less delicate a sense of a rival’s due and a lover’s duty, did these

two nineteenth-century ladies grace a difficult, an impossible,

position.

The prince had bought our ancient manor-house to hide therein his

unespousèd saint. He rebuilt the tumbling walls, restored roof and

ceilings; it was he, no doubt, who drained the fishpond which used to

stand so close to the front door. He made the place a little paradise.

He was rich; he sent all over both worlds, old and new, for rare trees

to plant the hilly park which rises about the small grey priory, gently

swelling to a rim of oakwoods all around. The park is, as it were, a

brief and shallow valley from which the river has long disappeared,

leaving only a tiny, almost invisible streamlet which trickles through

the softest lawns, planted now with groups of silvery Atlas cedars; with

old hollow chestnuts, which--they, at least--must date back some two

hundred years, so far have they gone in the sere and yellow leaf; with

Californian cypresses, which flame all autumn until their fiery needles

rust and fall; with strange pines that grow in a pyramid; with deodoras

and monkey-trees from India; with copper beech and silvery maple. He

stocked the place with antelopes, guanacos, and llamas, quaint, shy

creatures, housed in folds under the spreading trees, that would come to

the palings and feed, tame and timid, from their lady’s hand. And here,

as quiet and lonely as Adam and Eve in their garden, lived these

unlawful lovers, eternally sequestered. He, indeed, had his excursions

and forthcomings, incidental to the existence of a man with two wives,

but she, poor soul, wrapt in a veil of tender shame, dared not show her

face beyond the unfenced boundaries of her woods, and did by stealth her

very deeds of mercy.

Some fifty years ago, both prince and lady died. The house and lands

then came by purchase into the hands of some friends of mine, who have

considerably extended the lands of their domain. The younger brother

married an exquisite young _sociétaire_ of the Comédie Française--a

young lady, pure as pearl, good as gold, of a sort rare, though not

impossible, upon the stage, in France. To this paradise of the

Commanderie he brought his young wife; but--alas for our terrestrial

Edens!--she died there before the year was out. When the widower

followed her, he left the house to his elder brother, a soldier of some

note, who turned his sword into a ploughshare, and devoted himself to

his vineyards and cornfields. His daughter is mistress of the

manor-house to-day.

As it stood when it came into her hands, the Commanderie was a fit

pavilion for a pair of lovers, but scarcely the hospitable home of a

numerous family. Much of it had to be rebuilt and much restored. A story

was added. One day, when the masons were taking down an ugly plaster

ceiling from a small room in the tower, there underneath they

[Illustration: THE COMMANDERIE AT BALLAN]

found, still solid, still fresh and clear, the ancient beams and

roof-trees of a distant century, painted with the coat-of-arms of the

Knights of Malta.

The fields of France · 第 41 / 98 题