colder than any of those we past; and ’tis likewise said, you have none
of those excessive Heats which are intolerable in other Parts of Spain:
The Town stands where you descend the Mountain, and reaches to the Plain
as far as the River, which washes the foot of the Wall: the Streets are
very strait and even: the Castle is not great, but very strong, and is
seen on the top of the Mountain: A little lower is the Triumphant Arch
of Fernando Gonsales, which the Curious do much admire. This Town was
the first that was conquer’d from the Mores; and the Kings of Spain have
long resided here; ’tis the Capital of Old Castille; it holds the first
Rank in the two States of the two Castilles, although Toledo disputes it
with her: You see her fine Buildings; and Velasco’s Palace is very
stately. Here are in all the broad Streets and spacious Places,
Fountains, with Statues, some of which are good Pieces; but the finest
sight is the Cathedral, which is so large, that Mass is said in five
several places of it, without any disturbance to each other: the
Architecture is so exquisitely wrought, that it may pass among the
Gothick Buildings for a Master-Piece of Art: and this is so much the
more remarkable, in that they build very sorrily in Spain; in some
places this is through Poverty, and in others want of Stone and Lime: I
am told that even at Madrid you see Houses of Earth, and the finest are
made with Brick, cemented with the same, for want of Lime. To pass from
the Town to the Suburbs of Bega, you go over three Stone Bridges: the
Gate which answers that of Santa Maria, stands high, with the Image of
the Virgin upon it: this Suburb contains the greatest part of the
Convents and Hospitals; there is a great one founded by Philip the
Second, to receive the Pilgrims which go to St. James, and which
entertains them for a Day. The Abbey of Mille Flores, whose Building is
very stately, is not far distant. You see here in this Suburb several
Gardens which are watered with Fountains and pleasant Springs; the River
serves for a Channel: And you find in a great Park inclosed with Walls,
pleasant Walks at all times of the Year.
I would have seen the Crucifix in the Augustines Convent; it is placed
in a Chappel of the Cloyster, large and dark enough, so that you could
hardly discern it, were it not for the Lamps, which are continually
burning, they’r above an hundred; some are of Gold, and others of
Silver, of so extraordinary a size, that they cover all the Vault of
this Chappel: there are sixty Silver candlesticks of a length exceeding
the tallest Man, and so heavy that two Men cannot lift ’em: they stand
on the ground on both sides of the Altar; those which are upon it are of
Massy Gold: You see between ’em two Crosses of the same, set out with
Precious Stones, and Crowns hanging over the Altar, adorn’d with Pearls
and Diamonds of great Lustre: The Chappel is hung with Tapistry, wrought
with Gold; it is so laden with rich Gifts, that there’s hardly room to
put ’em in; so that part of ’em are kept in the Treasury.
The Holy Crucifix stands on the Altar, near the natural bigness, it is
covered with three Curtains one on another, all embroidered with Pearls
and Diamonds: When they open them, which is not done without great
Ceremony, and for Persons of Quality, several Bells are rung, every one
falls on his Knees: and it must be granted, that this place and sight
strikes one with an Awful Regard: The Crucifix is of Carv’d Work, and
cannot be better made; its Carnation is very natural; it is covered from
the Breasts to the Feet with a fine Linnen, in several Foulds or Pleats,
which makes it look like a loose Jerkin, which in my Opinion, is not
over-agreeable.
It is commonly held, that Nicodemus made it; but those who are for
making every thing Miraculous, will have it brought down from Heaven,
they know not how nor when. I was told, certain Monks of this Town had
once stole it, and convey’d it away; but it took a convenient time to
give ’em the slip, and was found the next Morning in the Chappel in its
usual place: These honest People being enraged, that it should serve ’em
such a Trick, mustered up their Forces, and violently laid Hands on’t
the second time, but to as little purpose; for ’twould by no means stay
with ’em: However, it works Miracles, and is one of the chief Objects of
Devotion in Spain: The Religious tell you, it sweats every Friday.
I was going into my Inn, when we saw the Sieur de Cardonne’s Valet de
Chambre, running as fast as he could after us; he was booted, and three
Friers scowring after him: I was over-rash in my Judgment; for I could
not but think he had stole something in this rich Chappel, and was taken
in the Fact; but his Master, who was with me, having demanded of him,
What put him on such full speed? He answer’d, He went into the Chappel
of the Holy Crucifix with his Spurs on, and the Fryers had kept him in
custody, to get Money of him, but that he was gotten out of their
Clutches, but they were now upon the Hunt for him. They make it a
Forfeit, as well as others, for a Man to go with Spurs into these Holy
Places.
The Town is not very great; it is adorned with a spacious Place; here
are high Pillars which bear up very fine Lodgings. The Bull-Feasts are
kept here; for the People are much delighted with this sort of
Divertisement. There is also a very well-built Bridge, long and large:
the River which passes under it, bathes a Meadow, on the Bank of which
you see Allies of Trees, which form a most delicious Walk. Trade was
heretofore considerable, but it is of late much diminisht. The best
Castillan is here spoken; and the Men are naturally Souldiers, so that
when the King has need of them, he finds here great Numbers, and better
Men than elsewhere.
After Supper our Company set to Play, as heretofore: Don Sancho
Sanniento was for yielding his place to any one, pretending ’twas his
Right to Entertain me this Evening. I knew he had lately return’d from
Sicily; I askt him, Whether he had been one of those who had help’d to
Chastize those Rebellious People? ‘Alas, Madam,’ said he, ‘the Marquess
de Las Navas was sufficient to punish them beyond what their Crime
deserv’d: I was at Naples, in the design to pass into Flanders, where I
have Relations of the same Name. The Marquess de Los Veles, Vice-Roy of
Naples, engaged me to leave my first Project, and embark myself with the
Marquess de Las Navas, whom the King sent into Sicily: We set Sail in
two Vessels of Majorca, and arrived at Messina the sixth of January.
Having sent no notice of his coming, and no body expecting it, he was
not receiv’d with the Honours paid commonly to the Vice-Roys: But in
truth, his Intentions were so cruel against these poor People, that his
Entrance should have been made in Tears.
‘Scarcely was he arriv’d, but he clapt up the two Sheriffs in Prison,
named Vicenzo Zuffo, and Don Diego: He put Spaniards in their Places; he
rigorously abolisht the Colledge of Knights of the Star; and began to
execute the Orders which Gonzaga had long receiv’d, and which he had
eluded through Favour or Weakness. He immediately publisht an Order, by
which the King chang’d all the Form of Government of Messina, depriv’d
the Town of its Revenues, forbad its bearing for the future the Glorious
Title of Exemplary, dissolved the Senate, and put into the place of six
Sheriffs, six Officers, two of which should be Spaniards; that these
Officers should not for the future appear in Publick with their
Formalities; that they should no more be preceded by Drums and Trumpets,
ride no more together in a Coach with four Horses, as they were wont;
that they should sit henceforward on a plain Bench; should have no more
Incense offered ’em in the Churches; go cloath’d after the Spanish
Fashion; should Assemble on Publick Affairs in a Chamber of the
Vice-Roy’s Palace; and have no longer any Jurisdiction on the Champian
Country.
‘Every one was seized with such Consternation, as if he had been
Thunder-struck; but their Sorrow was much increased on the fifth of the
same Month, when the Camp Master-General went to the Town-house, and
seized all their Charters, and Original Copies of their Priviledges, and
made ’em be burnt publickly by the Hands of the common Hang-man. The
Prince de Condro was afterwards apprehended, to the great grief of his
Family, but particularly the Princess Eleonora, his Sister, whose Tears
were not shed alone: This Princess is not above Eighteen; her Beauty and
Wit are miraculous, which astonish those about her.’ Don Sancho’s Eyes
grew red at the remembrance of this Princess, and I plainly perceiv’d
Pity had not all the share in what he said; yet he continued on his
Discourse to me of Messina.
‘The Vice-Roy,’ added he, ‘publisht an Order, by which all the Citizens
were enjoyn’d, under penalty of ten Years Imprisonment, and five
thousand Crowns Fine, to bring their Arms into his Palace. He at the
same time caus’d the great Bell in the Town-house to be taken down, and
beaten to pieces in his fight: He ordered all the Bells in the Cathedral
to be melted, to make a Statue of the King of Spain. And the Prince of
Condro’s Children were taken into Custody: But their Fear increased,
when the Vice-Roy ordered D. V. Zuffo’s Head to be cut off. This Example
of Severity Alarum’d all the People; and what appear’d most terrible,
was, That in the late Troubles, some Families of Messinois having
withdrawn themselves into several Parts, the Marquess de Liche, the
Spanish Embassador at Rome, advised them, as a Friend, to return into
their own Country, assuring them all was Quiet, and that a General
Pardon was already publisht; and for their greater assurance, gave them
Passports. These poor People (who had not taken up Arms, and being not
of the number of the Revolters, knowing their Innocency, could never
have imagin’d they should have been treated as Criminals) return’d to
Messina; where they had scarcely landed, but the Joy they had of seeing
themselves in their Native Country, and in the midst of their Friends,
was sadly disturb’d, when they were seised on, and the next Morning,
without any Quarter, or regard to Sex or Age, by the Vice-Roy’s Order,
all hang’d. He afterwards sent to demolish the great Tower of Palermo;
and the principal Citizens of it, remonstrating against the excessive
Impositions on Corn, Silks, and other Commodities, the Marquess de las
Navas sent them all to the Gallies, without being moved by the Tears of
their Wives, and the need so many poor Children might have of their
Fathers.
‘I must acknowledge,’ continued Don Sancho, ‘that my Nature is so averse
to the Rigors every day exercis’d on these poor People, that I could not
for all the World remain any longer at Messina. The Marquess de las
Navas was for sending to Madrid, to inform the King of what he had done.
I intreated him to charge me with this Commission; and in effect he
consented, and gave me his Letters, which I have delivered to the King
at Madrid; and at the same time my Intercessions for the Prince de
Condro: And I presume my good Offices will not be wholly useless to
him.’ ‘I am perswaded,’ said I to him, ‘this was the principal Motive of
your Journey: I am no prying body, but methinks you are greatly
concern’d for the Interests of this Family.’ ‘It’s true, Madam,’
continued he, ‘the Injustice done this Unfortunate Prince does sensibly
affect me’: ‘Were he not Brother to the Princess Eleonora,’ said I to
him, ‘perhaps you would not so much lay it to heart. But no more of
this; I perceive this Remembrance afflicts you. Pray let me rather hear
from you what is most remarkable in your Country.’ ‘Ah! Madam,’ cried
he, ‘you insult over me; for you must needs know, that Galicia is so
poor and mean a Countrey, that there’s no place for bragging; not but
that the Town of St. James de Compostella is considerable enough; it is
the Capital of the Province, and scarce one in Spain that’s superiour to
it in Riches and Greatness: Its Archbishoprick is worth Seventy Thousand
Crowns a Year, and the Chapter has as much; It stands in an agreeable
Plain, surrounded with little Hills of moderate heighth; and it seems as
if Nature had placed them there to defend the Town from those deadly
Blasts which arise from other Mountains. Here is a University, fine
Palaces, stately Churches, publick Places, and an Hospital, one of the
most considerable, and best serv’d in Europe: It consists of two Courts
of extraordinary greatness, with Fountains in the midst. Several Knights
of St. James live in this Town; and the Metropolis, which is dedicated
to this Saint, keeps his Body: It is extream stately, and prodigiously
rich: It is pretended you hear a kind of Clattering at his Tomb, as if
Arms were struck one against another; and this noise is only heard when
the Spaniards are to undergo any great Loss. His Figure is represented
on the Altar, and the Pilgrims thrice kiss it, and put their Hats on his
Head; for this is the chief part of the Ceremony: They have also another
very singular one; they ascend the top of the Church, which is covered
with great flat Stones; In this place stands a Cross of Iron, whereon
the Pilgrims ever fasten some Rag, or Scrap of what they wear: They pass
under this Cross by so strait a Passage that they are forced to crawl on
their Bellies through it; and those who are not slender, are in danger
of being bursten. And there have been some so ridiculous and
superstitious, that having omitted to do this, they have expresly
return’d back again three or four hundred Leagues; for you see here
Pilgrims of all Nations. Here is a French Chappel, of which great Care
is taken; It is said, the Kings of France have been always great
Benefactors to it. The Church which is under ground is a better than
that above; there are stately Tombs, and Epitaphs of great Antiquity,
which exercise the Wits of Travellers. The Archiepiscopal Palace is a
vast Pile, and its Antiquity adds to its Beauty, instead of diminishing
it. A Man of my Acquaintance, a great Searcher into Etymologies, assured
me the Town of Compostella was so called, because St. James was to
suffer Martyrdom in the place where he should see a Star appear at
Compostella. It is true,’ continued he, ‘that some People pretend it to
be thus; but the Peoples Credulity and Superstition carries ’em further;
for you are shew’d at Padron, near Compostella, an hollow Stone; and it
is pretended this was the little Boat in which St. James arriv’d, after
he had past so many Seas in it, which being of Stone, must have, without
a signal Miracle, sunk to the bottom.’ ‘I suppose,’ said I to him, ‘you
believe this to be most true.’ He smiled, and continued his Discourse:
‘I cannot but give you the Description of our Militia: They are called
together every Year in the Month of October, and all the Young Men from
the Age of Fifteen, are oblig’d to march; for should it happen that a
Father, or any other Relation should conceal his Son or Kinsman, and
those who are Officers should come to know it, they would condemn him
who has so offended, to perpetual Imprisonment. There have been some
Examples of this, but they are rare; for the Peasants are so infinitely
pleas’d to see themselves Arm’d and treated as Cavalieros & de Nobles
Soldados del Rey, that they would not for any Consideration be wanting
to shew themselves on this occasion. You shall seldom see in an whole
Regiment any Souldier that has more Shirts than that on his Back; and
the Stuff they wear, seems for its Coarseness to be made of Pack-thread:
their Shooes are made of Cord; they wear no Stockings, yet every Man has
his Peacock, or Dunghil-Cock’s Feather in his Cap, which is tied up
behind, with a Rag about his Neck in form of a Ruff; their Sword
oftentimes hangs by their side tied with a bit of Cord, and ordinary
without a Scabbard; the rest of their Arms is seldom in better Order:
And in this Equipage they march gravely to Tuy, where is the General
Rendezvouz, it being a Frontier place to Portugal. There are three which
lie thus, the above-mention’d, Cindud-Rodrigo, and Badajoz, but Tuy is
the best guarded, because it is over-against Valentia, a considerable
Town belonging to the King of Portugal, and which has been carefully
fortifi’d: These two Towns are so near, that their Cannon will reach
each other; and if the Portugaises have omitted nothing to put Valentia
out of danger of being insulted over, the Spaniards pretend Tuy is in as
good a Condition to defend it self; It stands on an Hill, whose lower
part is wash’d by the River Minhio; it has good Ramparts, strong Walls,
and good store of Artillery. It is here, I say, where these our
Champions bid Defiance to the King’s Enemies, and in a strutting
Bravery, declare, they do not fear ’em. Perhaps something of this may
happen in time, for here are form’d as good Troops as in any other part
of Spain. However, this is a great loss to the Kingdom, the whole Youth
being thus taken up; for the Lands, for the most part lye untill’d, and
on the side of St. James de Compostella, you wou’d think you saw a
Wilderness; on that of the Ocean, the Country being better and more
peopled, yields greater Profit, and all things necessary and convenient,
as Oranges, Lemmons, and Pomgranates, several sorts of Fruits, and
excellent Fish, especially Pilchards, more delicate than those which
came from Royan to Bordeaux.
‘One of the most remarkable things, in my mind, in this Kingdom, is the
Town of Doiense, one part of which always enjoys the Sweetness of the
Spring, and the Fruits of Autumn, by reason of several Springs of
boiling Water, which warm the Air by their Exhalations; whil’st the
other part of this same Town suffers the Rigors of the longest Winters,
standing as it does at the Foot of a very cold Mountain; so that you
find in the space of one only Season, all those which compose the course
of the Year.’
‘You say nothing,’ replied I to him, ‘of the marvellous Fountain, call’d
Louzano.’ ‘Who have told you of it, Madam?’ answer’d he. ‘Persons that
have seen it,’ added I. ‘You have been then told,’ continu’d he, ‘that
on the top of the Mountain of Cerbret, you find this Fountain at the
Source of the River Lours; which has Flux and Reflux as the Sea, tho’ it
be at twenty Leagues distance from it; that the greater the Heats are,
the more Water it casts, that this Water is sometimes cold as Ice, and
sometimes as hot as if it boil’d, there being no Natural Cause to be
giv’n for it.’ ‘You learn me Particulars I was ignorant of,’ said I to
him, ‘and this is doing me a great Pleasure, for I want not for
Curiosity in relation to things uncommon.’ ‘I wish,’ replied he, ‘’twas
not so late, I would give you an account of several Rarities in Spain,
and which perhaps you would gladly learn.’ ‘I leave you for to Night,’
said I to him, ‘but I hope before we come to Madrid, we shall have an
opportunity of discoursing of them.’ He very civilly made me a Promise;
and the Play being ended, we bad one another good night.
When I would go to rest, I was led into a Gallery full of Beds, as you
see in Hospitals: I said, this was ridiculous; and that needing only
four, what occasion was there for shewing me forty, and to put me into
such an open place to starve me? I was answer’d, This was the best place
in the House, and I must take up with it. I caus’d my Bed to be made,
when scarce was I laid down, but some body knockt softly at my Door; my
Women opened it, and remained much surpriz’d to see the Master and
Mistress followed by a dozen of sorry creatures, and so cloath’d that
they were half naked. I drew my Curtain at the Noise they made, and
opened more mine Eyes at the sight of this Noble Company. The Mistress
drew near to me, and told me, These were honest Travellers, who were
coming into the Beds which remained empty. ‘How, lie here?’ said I, ‘I
believe you have lost your Senses.’ ‘I should have lost ’em indeed,’
replied she, ‘should I let so many Beds stand Empty. Either, Madam, you
must pay for them, or these honest Gentlemen must lye in them.’ I cannot
express my Rage to you; I was in the mind to send for Don Fernand and my
Knights, who would have sooner made ’em pass through the Windows than
through the Doors: But I considered this could not be done without some
Disturbance, and therefore I came to Terms, and agreed to pay 20 _d._
for each Bed; they are hardly dearer at Fontainbleau when the Court is
there. These Illustrious Dons, or, to speak better, Tatterdemalions, who
had the Insolence to come into my Room, immediately withdrew, having
made me several profound Reverences.
The next Morning I thought to have burst with laughter, tho’ twas at my
Cost, when I discovered mine Hostess’s Trick to ruin me: For you must
know in the first place, that these pretended Travellers were their
Neighbours, and that they are accustomed to this Stratagem, when they
see Strangers: But when I would have reckoned the Beds to pay for ’em,
they were rowled all of ’em into the midst of the Gallery; there were
divers wretched Troughs of Straw pull’d out, which were hardly good
enough to entertain Dogs, yet I must pay for each 20 _d._ Four Pistoles
ended our Dispute. I was not able to put my self in a Passion, such
singularity did I find in this Management. I would not recount this
little Accident to you, did it not serve to give you some insight into
the Humour of this Nation.
We set out from Burgos very late, the Weather was so bad, and there had
fall’n in the Night such great quantity of Rain, that I tarry’d there as
long as I could, in expectation of its ceasing. In fine, I came to a
Resolution, and ascended my Litter. I had not gotten far from the Town,
but I repented of my leaving it; no Track cou’d be seen, especially on a
very high steep Mountain, over which we must necessarily pass. One of
our Mule-drivers, who went before, struck too far on the Edge of this
Mountain, so that he fell with his Mule into a kind of Precipice, where
he broke his Head, and put his Arm out of joynt; this being the famous
Philip de St. Sebastian, the most intelligent of all his Profession, and
who commonly carries Persons of Quality to Madrid; he was therefore much
bemoaned; and we remain’d a great while before we could hale him out
from the scurvy place where he had fall’n; Don Fernand was so
compassionate as to let him have his Litter. The Night came speedily on
us, and we could have comforted our selves, could we have return’d to
Burgos, but it was impossible, the Ways were no less covered with Snow
on that side, than all the rest; so that we put in at Madrigalesco,
which has not above a dozen Houses, and I may say we were besieg’d
without having any Enemies. This Adventure gave us some disturbance,
tho’ we had brought Provisions with us for several Days. The best House
of the Town was half uncovered; and I was scarce lodged there, when a
venerable Old Man askt for me on the part of a Lady who was just
arriv’d: He made me a Compliment, and told me, He was inform’d this was
the only place where there was any tolerable Entertainment; and
therefore intreated me to spare her some room. He added, She was a
Person of Quality of Andalousia, was lately a Widow, and that he had the
Honour to belong to her.
One of our Knights, named Don Esteve de Carjaval, who is of the same
Country, fail’d not to demand her Name of the old Gentleman: He told
him, she was the Marchioness de Los Rios. At this Name he turn’d towards
me, and spake to me of her as of a Person whose Merit and Fortune were
very considerable: I readily accepted of this good Company; She
immediately came in her Litter, out of which she had not descended,
having found no House where she could abide.
Her Dress seem’d to me very singular; had she not been so handsome as
she was, she could never have appear’d in any sort tolerable: Her Gown
and Petticoat was of black Serge, and over them a kind of Linnen
Surplice, which reacht down lower than her Knees; the Sleeves were long,
and strait in the Arm, which hung over her Hands: This Surplice was
fastened to her gown, and being not pleated behind, it seem’d like a
Bib: She wore on her Head a piece of Muslin, which covered her Face, and
one would have taken it for a Religiose’s Hood; this covered her Neck,
and reach’d down very low: There appear’d no Hair on her Head, they were
all hid under this Muslin: She wore a great Mantle of black Taffaty,
which covered her Heels; and over this Mantle she had an Hat, whose
Brims were very large, fastened under her Chin with silken Twist. I was
told they wear this but only when they travel.
This is the Habit of the Widows and Duenna’s, a Dress which is
insupportable to my sight; and should one meet with a Woman in the Night
thus cloath’d, one might be startled without Reproach; yet the Lady was
very beautiful in this Unseemly Dress. They never leave it, unless they
marry; and they are oblig’d to bewail the Death of an Husband, whom they
could not endure when living.