entred like two Lions into this Chamber: They struck these Servants with
so great Terror, that never a one of ’em dared approach his Master, to
defend him, when his Nephews advance towards him, and set their Swords
to his Throat: ‘Barbarian,’ said they to him, ‘can you thus use Women of
Quality, that are to be our Wives? Because you are our Guardian, must
you therefore be our Tyrant? And is not the separating of us from what
we love, the taking our Lives from us? It’s now in our Power to take a
just Vengeance of you; but we cannot do it to a Man of your Age, who
cannot defend himself: give us then your Word, and swear by all that’s
Good and Holy, That in Acknowledgment for the Life we give you, you will
contribute to our Happiness, and suffer us to perform what we have
promis’d.’
The poor old Wret[c]h was so afrighted, that he could hardly make any
Answer: However, he swore more than they would have him; he fell on his
Knees, and kist an hundred times his Thumb laid a-cross one of his
Fingers, after the manner of Spain. Yet he told them, ‘That whatever he
had done, was onely in regard to their Interests; however, he would not
in any sort, for the future, oppose their Inclinations, in reference to
this Marriage.’ Two of the Domesticks took him under the Arm, and rather
carried him away than led him. Then the Gentlemen seeing themselves
free, threw themselves in their Mistresses Arms; they said to one
another, whatever Grief, Love and Joy do usually inspire in such
Occasions. But in Troth, one must have a Heart as affected and content
as theirs, to repeat all these things: they are only proper to Persons
more tender than you are, my dear Cousin. But I hope you will excuse
this Relation; I was so tired, in having not yet slept, that I could
scarce hear any more, but confusedly: and to hear no more, I got farther
into Bed, and threw the Quilt over my Head.
The next Morning Don Fernand de Toledo, sent me some choice Wines, with
great quantity of Oranges and Sweetmeats. As soon as he thought it a
proper time to Visit me, he came: Having thankt him for his Present, I
askt him, Whether he had heard nothing of what had past in the Night? He
told me, No; for he had lain in another part of the House. I was about
relating to him what I knew, When our Hostess entred into the Chamber:
she came from the two Gentlemen who had given me that Disturbance, with
the Swords in their Hands, intreating me to receive their Excuses. She
likewise told me, That two young Ladies desired they might wait on me,
and kiss my Hand. I answered these Civilities as I ought; and they soon
entred.
What charming Effects does the Return of Joy produce? I found these
Gentlemen very well shaped, and these Ladies very lovely; neither one
nor the other had any more on their Countenances the Characters of
Despair; an Air of Gaiety display’d itself in all their Words and
Gestures. The Eldest of the two Brethren made the most handsome Excuse
as is possible for his Mistake in entring my Chamber: he added, ‘He had
well observ’d the Fear he had caus’d me; but told me, that in that
Moment he was so transported, that he was capable of no other Thought
but the Rescuing his Mistress.’ ‘You would have been to blame,’ said I
to him, ‘should you have thought of any thing else: However, if it be
true, you are willing to make me Satisfaction for the Alarum you have
giv’n me, you must not refuse the gratifying my Curiosity: With these
fair Ladies leave, inform me what has reduced all of you to these
Extremities you were in.’ He lookt on them, as if it were to ask their
Approbation, which they willingly granted; and he thus began:
‘We are two Brothers, Madam, Natives of Burgos, and of one of the best
Families of this City. We were very young, when we fell into the Hands
of an Uncle, who took care of our Education and Estates, which are so
considerable, that we need not envy others on that account; Don Diego
(is our Uncle’s Name) he had made long since a firm Friendship with a
Gentleman living near Blaye, whose Merit is far above his Fortune; he is
call’d Monsieur de Messignac: our Uncle resolving to send us for some
time into France, he wrote hereupon to his Friend, who offered him his
House, which he joyfully accepted. He made us set out; and it is a Year
since we were received there with great Civility: Madam de Messignac
used us as her own Children; she has several; but of her four Daughters,
those you see are the most aimable. It would have been very difficult to
have seen them every day, to dwell with them, and yet not to have loved
them.
‘My Brother at first conceal’d from me his growing Passion, and I hid
mine from him; we were both of us very melancholly; the trouble of
loving, without being lov’d again, and the fear of displeasing those who
caus’d our Passion, all this cruelly tormented us; but a new Vexation
did greatly increase our Disquiet, which was a restless Jealousie we had
one of another: My Brother plainly saw I was in Love, and thought ’twas
with his Mistress; I lookt on him likewise as my Rival; and we bore such
Hatred to one another, as might have transported us to the greatest
Extremities; but that I resolutely determin’d one day to discover my
Sentiments to Mademoiselle de Messignac; but wanting Courage to speak to
her myself, I wrote some Verses in a little Book touching my Passion for
her, and dexterously slid it into her Pocket without her perceiving me.
My Brother, who had always an Eye on me, observ’d it, and playing with
her, he took out the Verses, and found ’em to contain a respectful and
passionate Declaration of Love to her; he kept them till Night, when
being withdrawn into my Chamber, with the greatest Inquietude, he came
to me, and tenderly embracing me, he told me, He was heartily glad at
the notice he had of my being in love with Mademoiselle de Messignac.
‘I remain’d as one Thunderstruck; I saw my Papers in his Hands; I
imagin’d she had made them a Sacrifice to him, and that he came to
insult on my Misfortune. He saw in my Eyes and Countenance part of what
I thought: “Undeceive yourself,” continued he, “she gave ’em not to me;
I have taken ’em without her seeing them: I’ll be serviceable to you for
the obtaining her; be you the same to me in relation to her elder
Sister.” I then embraced him, and promis’d him all he desired. Then we
mutually rendred good Offices to one another; and our Mistresses, who
were not then acquainted with the power of Love, began to accustom
themselves to hear talk of it.
‘It would be to abuse your Patience, to tell you, Madam, how we came at
length by our Cares and Assiduities to win their Hearts. What happy
Moments! what sweet Hours! to see without ceasing what one loves, and to
be beloved! to be together in the Fields, where an Innocent and Country
Life let’s one taste, without disturbance, the Pleasures of a growing
Passion; this is a Felicity which cannot be exprest.
‘Winter being come, Madam de Messignac was at Bourdeaux, where she had a
House; we accompanied her thither; but this House was not great enough
to lodge us, with all our Family; we took one near hers.
‘Though this Separation was only the Nights, yet we had lively
Resentments of it; we were not now every Moment with ’em; our Visits
were accompanied with a certain Air of Ceremonies, which disturb’d us.
But our Alarums were much increas’d when we saw two rich handsome Sparks
address themselves to Mademoiselles de Messignac, and earnestly Court
them, and that with the Approbation of their Parents. Good God, how we
lookt! Their Proceedings went on at a great rate, and our dear
Mistresses, who shared in our Sorrow, mingled every day their Tears with
ours. In fine, having thoroughly tormented ourselves, by devising a
thousand fruitless Ways, I resolv’d to Address myself to Monsieur de
Messignac: I spake to him, and told him what my Passion inspired me, to
perswade him to defer these Marriages. He answer’d, “He accepted, with
the greatest Acknowledgments, the Offers my Brother and I made him; but
being not of Age, what we might do at present might be afterwards
Cancell’d: That his Honour was dear to him, though his Estate was small;
however, should always esteem himself Happy, in living without Reproach:
That my Uncle, who had entrusted us to him, might justly accuse him of
Seducing us; and that in short, we must no more think of these matters.”
‘I withdrew in the greatest Affliction, which I shared with my Brother;
and this was a dreadful trouble among us. Monsieur de Messignac, to
compleat our misfortunes, sent an Account to my uncle, of what had past,
and earnestly intreated him to lay his Commands on us to be gone. He did
so; and seeing no remedy to our Misfortune, we went, my Brother and I,
to Mademoiselles de Messignac, we threw ourselves at their Feet; We told
them what might perswade Hearts already pre-possest: We gave them our
Faith, and Promises, Sign’d with our Blood: In Short, Love made an end
of vanquishing them; they consented to go with us. In fine, we took such
Measures, that our Passage was happy enough till our Arrival here; and
it is not two days since entring this House, the first Person offering
himself to us was Don Diego; He was impatient of our Return; and to
satisfie himself, he came in quest of us. How did we look at this sight!
He caus’d us to be apprehended as Criminals; and forgetting that
Mademoiselles de Messignac were the Daughters of his best Friend and
Person of Quality, he loaded them with Injuries, and o’erwhelm’d them
with Threatnings, after he had learnt from one of my Servants, that we
had resolved to pass Incognito as far as Madrid, to some Relations we
had there, to tarry in this place for a full liberty of declaring our
Marriage. He lock’t us up in a Chamber next to his; and we were there,
when these Ladies came by Moonlight, coughing under our Windows. We
heard them, and ran to them——They shew’d us their Letters; and we were
devising on our Deliverance, when my Uncle, having notice of what past,
silently came upon us with all his Servants, and before our Faces
misused these aimable Creatures. In the Excess of our Despair our
Strength, without doubt, increas’d; We broke open the Doors, which were
fast shut on us, and we ran to Succour them, when imprudently, Madam, we
came into your Chamber.’
[Illustration: Gateway of Fuenterrabia]
The Gentleman here stopt, and I found he had related his little History
with great Ingenuity. I thank’t him for it, and offer’d these Ladies my
Endeavours, and those of my Friends, to appease their Family: Which
Offers they accepted, and testifi’d their Acknowledgments.
Some Ladies of the Town, who came to see me, wou’d stop me; they
proposed to me to go to the Religioses, whose Convent is so pleasantly
situated, that the Prospect has no Bounds: You may see thence, at the
same time, the Sea, Ships, Towns, Woods and Fields. They spake much in
praise of the Voices, Beauty, and good Humour of these Religioses. Add
to this, that the ill Weather was so increast, and the Snow fal’n in so
great abundance, that no body advised me to proceed in my Journey. I was
in suspence a while, but the Impatience I had to be at Madrid, prevail’d
over all these Considerations, and I parted the next Morning. I have
receiv’d of my Banker the Money I want.
But I must not forget to tell you, That the Inhabitants of this Town
have a particular Priviledge, and of which they are not a little proud;
which is, That when they Treat of any Affairs with the King of Spain,
and that it is directly with him, he is oblig’d to speak with them
bareheaded. I could not get the Reason from ’em for this.
I am told I must furnish myself with good store of Provision, to prevent
starving in some places through which we must pass; and Gammons of
Bacon, dried Tongues, being much esteem’d in this Country, I have
therefore taken up a good quantity; and as to the rest, we have
sufficiently provided. Now this being the Post-day, I would not omit
this occasion of informing you of what has hapned to me; and testifying,
that I am,
Yours.
From St. Sebastian,
Feb. 20, 1679.
LETTER II
I Re-assume, Dear Cousin, without any Compliments, the Sequel of my
Travels: In leaving St. Sebastian, we entred into a very rough Way,
which brings you to such terrible steep Mountains, that you cannot
ascend them without climbing; they are call’d Sierra de St. Adrian. They
shew only Precipices and Rocks, on which a puling Lover may meet with
certain Death, if he has a mind to it. Pine Trees of an extraordinary
heighth crown the top of these Mountains. As far as the Sight will reach
you see nothing but Desarts, cut with Streams clearer than Chrystal.
Near the highest part of Mount St. Adrian, you meet with an elevated
Rock, which seems to have been placed in the midst of the way to block
up the Passage, and thus separate Biscaye from the Old Castille.
A tedious and painful Labour has pierced this Mass of Stone in manner of
a Vault; you may walk forty or fifty Paces under it, without sight of
Day, but what comes by the Overtures at each Entry, which are shut by
great Doors: You find under this Vault an Inn, which is left in the
Winter, by Reason of the Snows: You see here likewise a little Chappel
of St. Adrian, and several Caverns, where Thieves commonly retreat; so
that it is dangerous passing here without being in a condition of
Defence. When we[2] had traverst the Rock, we still a little ascended,
to arrive to the top of the Mountain, which is held to be the highest of
the Pyranea’s; it is wholly covered with great Ash Trees. There was
never a finer place of Solitude; the Springs run here as in the Vallies:
the sight is only bounded by the Weakness of the Eyes; Shades and
Silence here reign, and the Eccho’s answers on every side. We began
afterwards to descend down faster than we climed up: We saw in some
parts little barren Plains, many sandy places, and ever and anon
Mountains covered with great Rocks. It is not without Reason, that in
passing so near, you fear, lest some one of ’em should get loose, which
would certainly over-whelm one; for you see some which are fall’n from
the top, and hang in their passage on other Clefts; and these finding
nothing in the way, would give a sorry Diversion to a Traveller. I made
all these Reflections at my ease; for I was alone in my Litter, with my
Child, who did not at all disturb my Thoughts. A River call’d Urrola,
big enough, but which was increased by the Torrents, and melted Snow,
slides along the Way, and breaks forth into particular Streams in some
places, which fall with a great impetuosity and noise, and make a very
pleasant sound and sight.
We meet not here with those fine Castles to be seen on the Banks of the
Loire, which make Travellers call it the Country of Fairies. Here are on
these Mountains only some Shepherds Cottages, and some few Hovels, and
at that distance, that you must go a great way before you can find them;
yet all these Natural Objects, though very melancholly ones, yet have
something that is very taking in them. The Snows were so high, that we
had always twenty Men, who made way for us with Shovels. You will
perhaps imagine this cost me very much; but here are so well establisht
Orders, and those so well observ’d, that the Inhabitants of a Village
are oblig’d to meet Travellers, and be their Guides to the next; and no
one being bound to give them any thing, the least Liberality therefore
satisfies them. To this first Care there is added another, which is that
of Ringing the Bells without ceasing, to give notice to Travellers,
where they may retreat in stormy Weather. They told me, there had not
fall’n this forty Years so much Snow as we met with, there having been
no Frost for a great while in this Province.
Our Troop was so great that we might count ourselves no ways inferiour
to those Famous Caravans which go to Mecha; for without reckoning my
Train, and that of Don Fernand de Toledo, there joyn’d with us near St.
Sebastian, three Knights, with their Attendants, who return’d from their
Commanderships of St. James; there were two of this Order, and one of
that of Alcantara: The first wear Red Crosses, in form of an embroidered
Sword, on their Shoulders; and he of Alcantara had a Green one. One of
the two first is of Andalousia, the other of Galicia, and the third of
Catalonia; they are of good Families; he of Andalousia calls himself,
Don Esteve de Carvajal; he of Galicia, Don Sancho Sanniento; and the
other of Catalonia, Don Frederic de Cardonne; they are Persons of good
Meine, and well acquainted with the World. I receiv’d all possible
Civilities from them, having much of the French Humour in them. They
have travelled over the greatest Part of Europe; and this has rendred
them so Polite. We went to lye at Galareta; this is a Borough a little
distant from Mount Adrian, situated in the little Province of Spain, I
now mention’d, named Alava, which makes a Part of Biscaye; we had there
but bad Entertainment. They reckon it eleven Leagues from thence to St.
Sebastian.
We had better Way from Galareta to Victoria, than we had before: The
Country here yields much Corn and Grapes; and the Villages lie very
thick together: We found here Custom-House-Men, who made us pay both for
the Cloaths and Money we carried with us: they were not very exacting
with us, because our Company was too large to be imposed on. Don Fernand
de Toledo had inform’d me over Night, that we were to travel near the
Castle of Quebara, which was said to be haunted with a Spirit, telling
me a thousand extravagant Stories, which were readily swallow’d by the
Inhabitants of the Country, and which were so effectually believ’d by
them, that no body would live there. I had a great desire to see this
place; for altho’ I am naturally as fearful as another, yet am not
afraid of Ghosts; and if I were, our Company was so numerous, as would
animate the greatest Coward: we struck off a little to the left, and
came to the Borough of Quebara; the Master of the Inn where we entred,
had the Keys of the Castle; he told us, in going along with us, ‘That
the Duende,’ which is to say the Spirit, ‘could not endure Company; yet
if we were a thousand together, he would, if he were minded, beat us
all, in such a manner, as to leave us for dead.’ I began to tremble; Don
Fernand de Toledo, and Don Frederic de Cordonne, who gave me their
Hands, perceiving my Fear, burst out into Laughter: I grew asham’d, and
pretended to gain Courage; and so we entred the Castle, which might have
past for a fine one, had it been kept in order: It had no Furniture,
except an old Tapistry Hanging in a great Hall, which represented the
Amours of Don Pedro the Cruel, and Donna Maria de Padilla: she is
represented sitting like a Queen in the midst of other Ladies, and the
King placing on her Head a Crown of Flowers: In another part she sate
under the shade of a Wood, the King shewing her a Hawk on his Fist: And
again, in another, she appears in a Warrier’s Dress, and the King in
Armour presents her with a Sword; which makes me believe that she had
been in some Warlike Expedition with him. She was very ill represented;
and Don Fernand told me, ‘He had seen her Effigies elsewhere, by which
she appeared to be the most beautiful and most cruel Woman of her time;
and that the Figures in this Tapistry resembled neither her nor the
King: his Name, Cypher, and Arms were every-where on it.’ We went up
into a Tower, on the top of which was a Dungeon, and ’twas there where
the Spirit inhabited; but without doubt he was abroad, for we neither
saw nor heard him, or any of his Companions; and having seen
sufficiently this great Building, we left it to pursue our Journey. In
approaching Victoria, we past over a most delightful Plain, at the end
of which stands a Town situated in this Province of Spain, I lately
mention’d, call’d Alava; this is the Capital Town of it, as well as the
first of Castille: It is inclosed with two Walls, one of which is old,
and the other new; besides this, it has no other Fortifications. After I
had refresh’d myself a while here, ’twas proposed to me to go to a Play;
but in tarrying till it began, I had no small Diversion, in seeing come
into the most spacious place of the Town, four Companies of young Men,
preceded by Drums and Trumpets: they marched several times round, and in
fine, immediately began the Fight with Snow-balls, which they threw at
one another with such Fierceness, that they were all very well pelted in
the end: they were above two hundred who fought this Battle. To tell you
of those who fell, or recovered their Feet again, and the Shouts and
Acclamations of the People, will be needless; and I was obliged to leave
them thus engaged, to go to the place where the Play was to be
represented.
When I entred into the Room, the People set forth an hollowing, Mira,
mira! which is to say, Look, look! The Decoration of the Theatre was not
over Magnificent; it was rais’d on Barrels, and ill-rang’d Planks; the
Windows of the Room were open, for they used no Candles or Flambeaux;
whence you can easily imagine this much takes away from the Beauty of
the Sight. They acted the Life of St. Anthony; and when the Players said
any thing which pleas’d the Company, all the People cried out, Victoria,
Victoria; I was informed this was the Custom of the Country. I observ’d
the Devil was no other ways clad than the rest, having only a pair of
Stockings of a Flame colour, and a pair of Horns to distinguish him.
This Comedy consisted only of three Acts, and they are all no more: at
the end of each serious Act, another began of Farce and Pleasantry,
wherein appear’d him they called El Gracioso, which is to say, the
Buffoon, who, among much insipid Stuff, says sometimes something that is
less nauseous: The Interludes were mixt with Dances, to the sound of the
Harps and Guitars: The Actors had Castagnets, and a little Hat on their
Heads, without which they never Dance, and then ’tis a Saraband; they
seem not to walk, they slip along so lightly. Their manner is wholly
different from ours: they move too much their Arms, and often pass their
Hands on their Hats and Face, and that with no ill Grace; they play
admirably well on the Castagnets.
As to the rest, (Dear Cousin) I would not have you think these Actors,
for being in a little City, do much differ from those of Madrid. I was
told that those of the King are a little better; but, in a word, both
act what they call Las Comedias Famosas, which is to say, The finest and
most famous Comedies; which in truth are very ridiculous: For Example,
when St. Anthony said his Confiteor, which he did often enough, all the
Spectators fell down on their Knees, and gave themselves such rude Mea
Culpa’s as was enough to beat the breath out of their Bodies.
Here would be a proper place to speak of their Habits; but you had
better excuse me till I come to Madrid, lest I tire you with
Repetitions: Yet I must tell you, that all the Ladies I saw in this
Company, had a prodigious quantity of Red, which begins just under the
Eye, and passes from the Chin to the Ears, and Shoulders, to their very
Hands; so that I never saw any Radishes of a finer Colour.
The Lady Governness of the Town drew near to me; she just toucht my
Cloaths, and hastily drew back her Hand as if she had burnt her Fingers.
I bid her in Spanish not to be afraid: She at length familiariz’d
herself, and told me, ‘’Twas not through fear of any thing else but of
displeasing me: that ’twas no new thing to her to see French Ladies: and
that if she might, she would gladly dress herself after their Fashion.’
She ordered Chocolate to be brought her, with which she presented me;
which is far better here than in France. The Play being ended, I took my
Leave of her, having thanked her for her Civilities.
The next Morning, as I entred the Church to hear Mass, I espied an
Hermit, who had the Air of a Person of Quality, and yet begg’d an Alms
of me, with such great Humility, that I was greatly surpriz’d at it: Don
Fernand having notice of it, drew near, and said to me, ‘The Person whom
you behold, Madam, is of an Illustrious Family, and of great Merit, but
his Fortune very Unhappy.’