CHAPTER XVI

THE ACCADEMIA. I: TITIAN, TINTORETTO, AND PAUL VERONESE

The important rooms--Venetian art in London--The ceiling of the thousand

wings--Some early painters--Titian's "Assumption"--Tintoretto's

"Miracle of S. Mark"--A triumph of novelty--The Campanile

miracle--Altar-pieces--Paul Veronese--Leonardo drawings--Indifferent

works--Jesus in the house of Levi--A painter on his trial--Other

Tintorettos--Another miracle of S. Mark--Titian's last painting.

The Accademia, which is to Venice what the National Gallery is to

London, the Louvre to Paris, and the Uffizi to Florence, is, I may say,

at once, as a whole a disappointment; and my advice to visitors is to

disregard much of it absolutely.

The reasons why Rooms II, IV, IX, X, XV, XVI, XVII, XVIII, XIX and XX

alone are important are two. One is that so wide a gulf is fixed between

the best Venetian painters--Bellini, Titian, Carpaccio, Giorgione (but

he is not represented here), Palma, Tintoretto, Veronese, and the next

best; and the other, that Venetian painting of the second order is

rarely interesting. In the Tuscan school an effort to do something

authentic or arresting persists even to the fifth and sixth rank of

painter; but not so here.

Were it not for the Accademia's Tintorettos, Carpaccios and Bellinis,

our own Venetian collection in Trafalgar Square would be much more

interesting; and even as it is we have in "The Origin of the Milky Way"

a Tintoretto more fascinating than any here; in "Bacchus and Ariadne" a

more brilliant Titian than any here; some Bellinis, such as "The Agony

in the Garden," the portrait of Loredano, and "The Death of S. Peter

Martyr," that challenge his best here; two Giorgiones and several

pictures notably of his school that cannot be matched here; the finest

Catena that exists; a more charming Basaiti than any here; a better

Antonello da Messina; and, according to some judges, the best Paul

Veronese in the world: "The House of Darius"; while when it comes to

Carlo Crivelli, he does not exist here at all.

But it has to be remembered that one does not go to Venice to see

pictures. One goes to see Venice: that is to say, an unbelievable and

wonderful city of spires and palaces, whose streets are water and whose

sunsets are liquid gold. Pictures, as we use the word, meaning paintings

in frames on the wall, as in the National Gallery or the Louvre, are not

among its first treasures. But in painting as decoration of churches and

palaces Venice is rich indeed, and by anyone who would study the three

great Venetian masters of that art--Tintoretto, Titian and Paul

Veronese--it must not only be visited but haunted. Venice alone can

prove to the world what giants these men--and especially

Tintoretto--could be when given vast spaces to play with; and since they

were Venetians it is well that we should be forced to their well-beloved

and well-served city to learn it.

Let us walk through the Accademia conscientiously, but let us dwell only

in the rooms I have selected. The first room (with a fine ceiling which

might be called the ceiling of the thousand wings, around which are

portraits of painters ranged like the Doges in the great council halls)

belongs to the very early men, of whom Jacobello del Fiore

(1400-1439) is the most agreeable. It was he who painted one of the two

lions that we saw in the museum of the Doges' Palace, the other and

better being Carpaccio's. To him also is given, by some critics, the

equestrian S. Chrysogonus, in S. Trovaso. His Accademia picture, on the

end wall, is strictly local, representing Justice with her lion and S.

Michael and S. Gabriel attending. It is a rich piece of decoration and

you will notice that it grows richer on each visit. Two other pictures

in this room that I like are No. 33, a "Coronation of the Virgin,"

painted by Michele Giambono in 1440, making it a very complete ceremony,

and No. 24, a good church picture with an entertaining predella, by

Michele di Matteo Lambertini (died 1469). The "Madonna and Child" by

Bonconsiglio remains gaily in the memory too. No doubt about the Child

being the Madonna's own.

Having finished with this room, one ought really to make directly for

Room XVII, although it is a long way off, for that room is given to

Giovanni Bellini, and Giovanni Bellini was the instructor of Titian, and

Tintoretto was the disciple of Titian, and thus, as we are about to see

Titian and Tintoretto at their best here, we should get a line of

descent. But I reserve the outline of Venetian painting until the

Bellinis are normally reached.

[Illustration: THE MIRACLE OF S. MARK

FROM THE PAINTING BY TINTORETTO

_In the Accademia_]

The two great pictures of this next room are Titian's "Assumption" and

Tintoretto's "Miracle of S. Mark," reproduced opposite page 164, and

this one. I need hardly say that it is the Titian which wins the rapture

and the applause; but the other gives me personally more pleasure. The

Titian is massive and wonderful: perhaps indeed too massive in the

conception of the Madonna, for the suggestion of flight is lacking; but

it has an earthiness, even a theatricalness, which one cannot forget,

superb though that earthiness may be. The cherubs, however, commercial

copies of which are always being made by diligent artists, are a joy.

The Titians that hang in the gallery of my mind are other than this. A

Madonna and Child and a rollicking baby at Vienna: our own "Bacchus and

Ariadne"; the Louvre "Man with a Glove": these are among them; but the

"Assumption" is not there.

Tintoretto's great picture of the "Miracle of S. Mark" was painted

between 1544 and 1548, before he was thirty. The story tells that a

pious slave, forbidden by his master to visit and venerate the house of

S. Mark, disobeyed the command and went. As a punishment his master

ordered him to be blinded and maimed; but the hands of the executioners

were miraculously stayed and their weapons refused to act. The master,

looking on, was naturally at once converted.

Tintoretto painted his picture of this incident for the Scuola of S.

Mark (now a hospital); but when it was delivered, the novelty of its

dramatic vigour--a palpitating actuality almost of the cinema--was too

much for the authorities. The coolness of their welcome infuriated the

painter, conscious as he was that he had done a great thing, and he

demanded the work back; but fortunately there were a few good judges to

see it first, and their enthusiasm carried the day. Very swiftly the

picture became a wonder of the city. Thus has it always been with the

great innovators in art, except that Tintoretto's triumph was more

speedy: they have almost invariably been condemned first.

An interesting derivative detail of the work is the gateway at the back

over which the sculptured figures recline, for these obviously were

suggested by casts, which we know Tintoretto to have possessed, of

Michael Angelo's tombs in S. Lorenzo's sacristy at Florence. Every

individual in the picture is alive and breathing, but none more

remarkably so than the woman on the left with a child in her arms and

her knee momentarily resting on a slope of the pillar. No doubt some of

the crowd are drawn, after the fashion of the time, from public men in

Venice; but I know not if they can now be identified.

Another legend of S. Mark which, by the way, should have its Venetian

pictorial rendering, tells how a man who was working on the Campanile

fell, and as he fell had the presence of mind to cry "S. Mark! S. Mark!"

whereupon a branch instantly sprang forth from the masonry below and

sustained him until help arrived. Tintoretto, who has other miracles of

S. Mark in the Royal Palace here and in the Brera at Milan, would have

drawn that falling workman magnificently.

This room also has two of Tintoretto's simpler canvases--an Adam and Eve

(with an error in it, for they are clothed before the apple is eaten)

and a Cain and Abel. The other pictures are altar-pieces of much

sweetness, by Giovanni Bellini, Carpaccio, Basaiti and Cima. The

Carpaccio is the best known by reason of the little charming celestial

orchestra at the foot of it, with, in the middle, the adorable

mandolinist who has been reproduced as a detail to gladden so many

thousands of walls. All have quiet radiance.

High over the door by which we entered is a masterly aristocratic

allegory by Paul Veronese--Venice with Hercules and Ceres--notable for

the superb drawing and vivacity of the cupid with the wheat sheaf. I

give a reproduction opposite page 102, but the Cupid unfortunately is

not distinct enough.

Room III has a Spanish picture by Ribera, interesting so near the

Tintorettos, and little else.

I am not sure that I am not happier in Room IV than anywhere else in

this gallery, for here are the drawings, and by an odd chance Venice is

rich in Leonardos. She is rich too in Raphaels, but that is less

important. Among the Leonardos, chiefly from his note books, look at No.

217, a child's leg; No. 257, children; No. 256, a darling little "Virgin

adoring"; No. 230, a family group, very charming; No. 270, a smiling

woman (but this possibly is by an imitator); No. 233, a dancing figure;

No. 231, the head of Christ; and the spirited corner of a cavalry

battle. Some of the Raphaels are exquisite, notably No. 23, a Madonna

adoring; No. 32, a baby; No. 89, a mother and child; and No. 50, a

flying angel.

In Room V are many pictures, few of which are good enough. It belongs to

the school of Giovanni Bellini and is conspicuous for the elimination of

character. Vacuous bland countenances, indicative merely of pious

mildness, surround you, reaching perhaps their highest point of meek

ineffectually in Bissolo.

The next room has nothing but dingy northern pictures in a bad light, of

which I like best No. 201, a small early unknown French portrait, and

No. 198, an old lady, by Mor.

Sala VII is Venetian again, the best picture being Romanino's

"Deposition," No. 737. An unknown treatment of Christ in the house of

Martha and Mary, No. 152, is quaint and interesting. Mary is very

comely, with long fair hair. Martha, not sufficiently resentful, lays

the table.

In Room VIII we again go north and again are among pictures that must be

cleaned if we are to see them.

And then we come to Room IX and some masterpieces. The largest picture

here is Paul Veronese's famous work, "Jesus in the House of Levi," of

which I give a reproduction opposite page 176. Veronese is not a great

favourite of mine; but there is a blandness and aristocratic ease and

mastery here that are irresistible. As an illustration of scripture it

is of course absurd; but in Venice (whose Doges, as we have seen, had so

little humour that they could commission pictures in which they were

represented on intimate terms with the Holy Family) one is accustomed to

that. As a fine massive arrangement of men, architecture, and colour, it

is superb.

It was for painting this picture as a sacred subject--or rather for

subordinating sacred history to splendid mundane effects--that the

artist was summoned before the Holy Office in the chapel of S. Theodore

on July 8, 1573. At the end of Ruskin's brief _Guide to the Principal

Pictures in the Academy of Fine Arts at Venice_, a translation of the

examination is given. Reading it, one feels that Veronese did not come

out of it too well. Whistler would have done better. I quote a little.

_Question._ Do you know the reason why you have been summoned?

_Answer._ No, my lord.

_Q._ Can you imagine it?

_A._ I can imagine it.

_Q._ Tell us what you imagine.

_A._ For the reason which the Reverend Prior of SS. Giovanni and

Paolo, whose name I know not, told me that he had been here, and

that your illustrious lordships had given him orders that I should

substitute the figure of the Magdalen for that of a dog; and I

replied that I would willingly have done this, or anything else for

my own credit and the advantage of the picture, but that I did not

think the figure of the Magdalen would be fitting or would look

well, for many reasons, which I will always assign whenever the

opportunity is given me.

_Q._ What picture is that which you have named?

_A._ It is the picture representing the last supper that Jesus took

with His disciples in the house of Simon.

_Q._ Where is this picture?

_A._ In the refectory of the Friars of SS. Giovanni and Paolo.

_Q._ In this supper of Our Lord, have you painted any attendants?

_A._ Yes, my lord.

_Q._ Say how many attendants, and what each is doing.

_A._ First, the master of the house, Simon; besides, I have placed

below him a server, who I have supposed to have come for his own

amusement to see the arrangement of the table. There are besides

several others, which, as there are many figures in the picture, I

do not recollect.

_Q._ What is the meaning of those men dressed in the German fashion

each with a halbert in his hand?

_A._ It is now necessary that I should say a few words.

_The Court._ Say on.

_A._ We painters take the same license that is permitted to poets

and jesters. I have placed these two halberdiers--the one eating,

the other drinking--by the staircase, to be supposed ready to

perform any duty that may be required of them; it appearing to me

quite fitting that the master of such a house, who was rich and

great (as I have been told), should have such attendants.

_Q._ That fellow dressed like a buffoon, with the parrot on his

wrist,--for what purpose is _he_ introduced into the canvas?

_A._ For ornament, as is usually done.

_Q._ At the table of the Lord whom have you placed?

_A._ The twelve Apostles.

_Q._ What is St. Peter doing, who is the first?

_A._ He is cutting up a lamb, to send to the other end of the

table.

_Q._ What is he doing who is next to him?

_A._ He is holding a plate to receive what St. Peter will give him.

_Q._ Tell us what he is doing who is next to this last?

_A._ He is using a fork as a tooth-pick.

_Q._ Who do you really think were present at that supper?

_A._ I believe Christ and His Apostles were present; but in the

foreground of the picture I have placed figures for ornament, of my

own invention.

_Q._ Were you commissioned by any person to paint Germans and

buffoons, and such-like things in this picture?

_A._ No, my lord; my commission was to ornament the picture as I

judged best, which, being large, requires many figures, as it

appears to me.

_Q._ Are the ornaments that the painter is in the habit of

introducing in his frescoes and pictures suited and fitting to the

subject and to the principal persons represented, or does he really

paint such as strike his own fancy without exercising his judgment

or his discretion?

_A._ I design my pictures with all due consideration as to what is

fitting, and to the best of my judgment.

_Q._ Does it appear to you fitting that at our Lord's last supper

you should paint buffoons, drunkards, Germans, dwarfs, and similar

indecencies?

_A._ No, my lord.

_Q._ Why, then, have you painted them?

_A._ I have done it because I supposed that these were not in the

place where the supper was served....

_Q._ And have your predecessors, then, done such things?

_A._ Michel-Angelo, in the Papal Chapel in Rome, has painted our

Lord Jesus Christ, His mother, St. John and St. Peter, and all the

Court of Heaven, from the Virgin Mary downwards, all naked, and in

various attitudes, with little reverence.

_Q._ Do you not know that in a painting like the Last Judgment,

where drapery is not supposed, dresses are not required, and that

disembodied spirits only are represented; but there are neither

buffoons, nor dogs, nor armour, nor any other absurdity? And does

it not appear to you that neither by this nor any other example you

have done right in painting the picture in this manner, and that it

can be proved right and decent?

_A._ Illustrious lord, I do not defend it; but I thought I was

doing right....

The result was that the painter was ordered to amend the picture, within

the month, at his own expense; but he does not seem to have done so.

There are two dogs and no Magdalen. The dwarf and the parrot are there

still. Under the table is a cat.

[Illustration: THE FEAST IN THE HOUSE OF LEVI

FROM THE PAINTING BY VERONESE

_In the Accademia_]

Veronese has in this room also an "Annunciation," No. 260, in which the

Virgin is very mature and solid and the details are depressingly dull.

The worst Tuscan "Annunciation" is, one feels, better than this. The

picture of S. Mark and his lion, No. 261, is better, and in 261a we

find a good vivid angel, but she has a terrific leg. The Tintorettos

include the beautiful grave picture of the Madonna and Child giving a

reception to Venetian Senators who were pleased to represent the Magi;

the "Purification of the Virgin," a nice scene with one of his vividly

natural children in it; a "Deposition," rich and glowing and very like

Rubens; and the "Crucifixion," painted as an altar-piece for SS.

Giovanni e Paolo before his sublime picture of the same subject--his

masterpiece--was begun for the Scuola of S. Rocco. If one see this, the

earlier version, first, one is the more impressed; to come to it after

that other is to be too conscious of a huddle. But it has most of the

great painter's virtues, and the soldiers throwing dice are peculiarly

his own.

Room X is notable for a fine Giorgionesque Palma Vecchio: a Holy family,

rich and strong and sweet; but the favourite work is Paris Bordone's

representation of the famous story of the Fisherman and the Doge, full

of gracious light and animation. It seems that on a night in 1340 so

violent a storm broke that even the inner waters of the lagoon were

perilously rough. A fisherman chanced to be anchoring his boat off the

Riva when a man appeared and bade him row him to the island of S.

Giorgio Maggiore. Very unwillingly he did so, and there they took on

board another man who was in armour, and orders were given to proceed to

S. Niccolò on the Lido. There a third man joined them, and the fisherman

was told to put out to sea. They had not gone far when they met a ship

laden with devils which was on her way to unload this cargo at Venice

and overwhelm the city. But on the three men rising and making the sign

of the cross, the vessel instantly vanished. The fisherman thus knew

that his passengers were S. Mark, S. George, and S. Nicholas. S. Mark

gave him a ring in token of their sanctity and the deliverance of

Venice, and this, in the picture, he is handing to the Doge.

Here, too, is the last picture that Titian painted--a "Deposition". It

was intended for the aged artist's tomb in the Frari, but that purpose

was not fulfilled. Palma the younger finished it. With what feelings,

one wonders, did Titian approach what he knew was his last work? He

painted it in 1576, when he was either ninety-nine or eighty-nine; he

died in the same year. To me it is one of his most beautiful things: not

perhaps at first, but after one has returned to it again and again, and

then for ever. It has a quality that his earlier works lack, both of

simplicity and pathos. The very weakness of the picture engages and

convinces.

A Wanderer in Venice · 第 16 / 29 章