The word "Bar" is applied to the many stitches used to connect the
various parts of point lace, and the beauty of the work depends greatly
upon the class of bar selected and its suitability to the lace stitches
used.
NOS. 31 AND 32.--RALEIGH BARS.--These bars are much used in making
Battenburg lace and are very effective. They are worked over a
foundation or net-work of coarse thread, and are twisted in places so
that they will more easily fall into the desired form.
By following the numbering from 1 to 21, in No. 31, a square place may
be easily filled, and portions of this arrangement applied to form
ground-work of any shape desired. Upon this ground-work tight point de
Bruxelles stitches are made, and the dot worked upon these in one of the
following ways:
[Illustration: No. 31.--Net-work for Working Raleigh Bars.]
DOT OR PICOT.--_First Method._--Make 5 tight point de Bruxelles
stitches, 1 loose point de Bruxelles; pass the needle under the loop and
over the thread, as shown in point de Venise bars at No. 47, on page 18,
and draw up, leaving a small, open loop as in tatting. Work 5 tight
point de Bruxelles stitches, and repeat.
_Second Method._--Proceed as above directed, but instead of continuing
the tight stitches, work two or three tight stitches in the loop thus
formed and repeat.
[Illustration: No. 32.--Raleigh Bars.]
_Third Method._--Work 4 tight point de Bruxelles stitches; 1 loose,
through which pass the needle point, wind the thread three or four times
round the point (see No. 48, page 18), press the thumb tightly on this,
and draw the needle and thread through the twists. This is a quick mode
of making the picot, and imitates most closely the real Spanish lace.
Illustration No. 48 shows how this stitch may also be
applied as a _regular_ ground-work, but the beauty of old point
ground-work bars consists of variety in form.
NO. 33.--ITALIAN GROUND STITCH.--Commence at the left side, and work as
follows:
_First row._--Make a loose button-hole stitch to form a loop a quarter
of an inch wide, and then make a plain stitch into the loop to twist it,
and continue to the end.
_Second row._--Make two plain stitches into each loop, working back to
the left.
_Third row._--Repeat first row.
[Illustration: No. 33.--Italian Ground Stitch.]
NO. 34.--OPEN LACE BARS.--Pass a thread from right to left. Make it firm
by working a second stitch into the braid; work 2 button-hole stitches
on this line of thread, close together. Then work 1 button-hole stitch
on the lower thread at the left hand side, and draw it close to the 2
stitches on the line of thread. Miss the space of 2 and repeat.
[Illustration: No. 34.--Open Lace Bars.]
NOS. 35 AND 36.--SORRENTO BARS.--Each of the bars is worked from right
to left, a straight thread being carried across and fastened securely
with a stitch. The return consists of a simple twist under and over the
straight thread; three of these bars are usually placed close together
at equal distances between the groups. The thread is sewn carefully over
the braid in passing from one spot to another.
[Illustration: No. 35.--Sorrento Bars.]
[Illustration: No. 36.--Sorrento Bars.]
NOS. 37 AND 38.--VENETIAN BARS.--The bar at No. 37 is so simple that it
really needs no description. It is worked over two straight threads in
reverse button-hole stitch. No. 38 shows the Venetian bar used as the
veining of a leaf and worked upon Sorrento bars.
[Illustration: No. 37.--Venetian Bars.]
[Illustration: No. 38.--Venetian Bars.]
NO. 39.--POINT D'ANVERS BARS.--Two upright bars form the foundation. The
thread is carried over and under them as seen in the engraving, the side
loops being added by the method depicted at the top of the point.
The over and under work in point d'Anvers bars, without the side loops,
is often used for plain bars for filling in odd spaces or wheels in
heavy lace.
[Illustration: No. 39.--Point d'Anvers Bars.]
NO. 40.--POINT GRECQUE BARS.--These bars are so simply made that they
are great favorites with beginners. They are begun at the top of the
point, one straight thread being carried to the bottom; then the cross
bars are worked after the method seen in the illustration.
[Illustration: No. 40.--Point Grecque Bars.]
NO. 41.--BARS OF POINT D'ANGLETERRE.--These bars may be worked singly or
to fill up a space, as in the illustration. Work rosettes as in point
d'Angleterre; when each rosette is finished twist the thread up the
foundation thread to the top, fasten with one stitch, then pass it under
the parallel line running through the center and over into the opposite
braid; repeat on each side of each rosette, inserting the threads as
seen in the illustration.
[Illustration: No. 41.--Bars of Point d'Angleterre.]
NO. 42.--POINT DE VENISE BARS (EDGED).--Begin at the right hand and
stretch a line of thread to the left side of the braid, fastening it
with one tight stitch of point de Bruxelles. Upon this line work a
succession of tight point de Bruxelles stitches. Then in every third
stitch work one point de Venise stitch.
[Illustration: No. 42.--Point de Venise Bars (Edged).]
NO. 43.--D'ALENCON AND SORRENTO BARS.--At Nos. 35 and 36 (page 16), a
description of the method of making Sorrento bars is given, while at No.
19 (page 12), is a description of plain and fancy d'Alencon stitches.
The two methods are combined in the work seen at No. 43 where the
process is so clearly illustrated that a mere novice in lace-work could
not fail to produce it perfectly. The combined stitch is used in filling
in spaces, etc., etc.
[Illustration: No. 43.--d'Alencon And Sorrento Bars.]
NO. 44.--PICOT OR DOT ON SORRENTO BAR.--This dot is worked between rows
of point de Bruxelles, 3 twisted stitches being worked into the loop
left by the twisted thread; this forms a picot resembling satin stitch
in appearance.
[Illustration: No. 44.--Picot or Dot on Sorrento Bar.]
NO. 45.--D'ALENCON BARS.--These bars are worked upon point de Bruxelles
edging, and are only applied to the inner part of a pattern, never being
used as ground-work bars. The thread is merely passed three times over
and under the point de Bruxelles stitches, the length of these bars
being regulated by the space to be filled; when the third bar is
completed a tight point de Bruxelles stitch fastens off the bars, and
the thread is passed through the next point de Bruxelles stitch.
[Illustration: No. 45.--d'Alencon Bars.]
NO. 46.--PLAIN VENETIAN BARS.--These bars are worked so as to form
squares, triangles, etc., in button-hole stitch upon a straight thread.
The _arrow_ in the illustration points to the direction for working the
next stitch.
[Illustration: No. 46.--Plain Venetian Bars.]
NO. 47.--DOTTED POINT DE VENISE BARS.--These pretty bars are worked as
follows: Stretch the thread from right to left; on this work 5 tight
stitches of point de Bruxelles, then insert a pin in this last stitch to
hold it open and loose, pass the needle under the loose stitch and over
the thread, as clearly shown in the illustration, and in this loop work
3 tight point de Bruxelles stitches. Then work 5 more stitches and
repeat to end of row.
[Illustration: No. 47.--Dotted Point de Venise Bars.]
The making of the dots or purls before mentioned as picots, is an
important feature in bar work. All three names are employed for the same
class of stitch.
NO. 48.--THIRD METHOD OF MAKING PICOTS OR DOTS.--This method has been
fully described in connection with the making of Raleigh Bars at Nos. 31
and 32 (page 15), and requires no further description at this point. All
dots and picots render work much more effective, and may be introduced
at will by the worker.
[Illustration: No. 48.--Third Method of Making Picots or Dots.]
In making modern lace, the various kinds require appropriate braids.
There are three classes of these braids--those for Battenburg lace,
those for plain Honiton and point, and those for the newest kind of
lace, which is called the "Ideal Honiton." Each class of braids contains
many designs and widths, and a large number of them, together with
various cords, buttons and rings also used are illustrated on following
pages.