The requirements of modern lace-making are few. The products are classed
as Honiton, Point, Duchesse, Princesse, Royal Battenburg or Old English
Point, etc., etc.; but all are made with various braids arranged in
different patterns and connected by numerous kinds of stitches, many
different stitches often appearing in one variety of lace.
The materials required are neither numerous nor expensive. The following
is a complete list: Tracing cloth, leather or _toile ciree_, lace braids
of various kinds, linen thread, two or three sizes of needles, a good
thimble and a pair of fine sharp scissors.
For each kind of lace there is a special sort of braid in various
patterns, and the selection of the thread depends entirely upon the
variety and quality of lace to be made. This selection should be left to
the decision of the teacher or the skilled maker of laces, as she knows
from experience the proper combinations of materials. Thus, in making
Honiton and point lace, thread in twelve different degrees of fineness
is used; and as the braids also vary in size, the thread must always be
adapted to the braid. For Battenburg lace the thread is in eight sizes,
the finest being used only for "whipping curves" or drawing edges into
the outlines required. The "Ideal Honiton" is a new lace made with fancy
Honiton braid and wash-silk floss in dainty colors, and is exquisite for
doilies, mats, table scarfs and center-pieces.
Designs sold by lace-makers are usually drawn upon tracing cloth, as
this is flexible and much more agreeable to work upon than any other
material. The tracing cloth, when the braid is arranged, is basted to a
foundation of leather or _toile ciree_; or smooth wrapping-paper may be
basted under the design and will furnish all the support that is
necessary, while being lighter than the _toile ciree_.
It must be remembered that the work is really wrong side out while in
progress, so that it will not show its true beauty until finished and
removed from the foundation or pattern. According to the braid and
thread selected, these laces may be made of fairy-like fineness or of
massive elegance--general results being dainty enough for the gown of a
bride or sumptuous enough for the adornment of an altar.
Lace-making establishments will furnish designs of any width or shape
desired, and will also originate designs for special articles for which
there are only occasional calls. Regular edging designs are ordinarily
made in four widths--from quite narrow to very wide; and not
infrequently a handkerchief design is enlarged sufficiently to form a
square for a table or a fancy stand.
In filling in the spaces of any design or pattern, the worker may choose
the stitches that please her best, if she does not like those
accompanying the design that she has selected or that has been sent
her.