(plur. of FAKIR). These are the sages, the holy men of the people, a kind
of priest, without however having priestly functions to perform; they
can read and write; they do not permit any music, dancing, or festivals
among them, and therefore have a great reputation for sanctity. The
chief of this village is the greatest Fakir of the whole surrounding
neighbourhood. Every one believes in him like a prophet; whatever he
predicts, happens. The late Achmed Pascha, one month before his death,
caused him to be imprisoned. “God will punish you for this,” was his
answer to the order, and one month afterwards the Pascha died. He is a
very rich man, and possesses several villages. We went in quest of him,
and found him in his house at dinner; about twenty people were sitting
round a colossal wooden bowl, which was filled with a gruel of boiled
Durra and milk. The bowl was pushed in front of us, but we could not eat
any of this food. We amused ourselves with the old Fakir, who joined in
our conversation with easy, friendly, and pleasing manners, and then
inquired our names, and the object of our journey. Every one who entered,
our servants among the number, approached him reverently, and touched his
hand with their mouth and forehead. The dignity of Sheikh is hereditary
in his family; his son is looked up to almost as much as himself, and
in this way we can understand how a village like this, when the Sheikh
has once been himself a Fakir, can become altogether a priest-village.
E’ Dâmer, on the island of Meröe, was formerly a Fakir place similar to
this. The inhabitants of Tâiba, probably of Arabic race, call themselves
ARAKIN. There are a number of such local names here, whose origin it is
difficult to make out.
When we had smoked out our pipes, we left the congregation of holy men,
and rode away. One half hour before we reached Messelemîeh, we came to
a second village called Hellet e’ Solimân, where we dismounted at a
house which had been built by the late Mak, or Melek Kambal, of Halfaï,
when he married the daughter of Defalla, to whom the village belonged;
it now belongs to his brother’s son, Mahmûd welled Schauîsch, who has
besides the title of Melek, but is really only the guardian of Kambal’s
little son, Melek Beshîr. It is easy to see what is now thought here of
the old reverential title of Melek, or King. Mahmûd was not at home, as
he had accompanied Ahmed Pascha on his campaign. Nevertheless, we were
entertained in his house according to the hospitable custom of this
country. Coverlets were spread out, milk and fresh baked Durra bread in
thin slices, which has by no means a bad taste, was brought in; added
to this, another simple, but refreshing beverage, _abréq_, fermented
sourish Durra water. Soon after Asser we reached Messelemîeh. Emin
Pascha received us very kindly, and communicated to us the intelligence
that Mohammed Ali’s first minister, Boghos Bey, whom I had visited in
Alexandria, was dead, and that Artim Bey, a man of elegant manners, and a
shrewd politician, had been appointed in his place.
We declined the Pascha’s invitation to supper, and offer of a night’s
lodging, and soon rode away towards the river, where we hoped to find
our boat. As it had not yet arrived, we spent the night on anqarebs in
the open air. We were not able to start for Kamlîn till the following
morning, the 15th March, and reached it towards evening. The next day we
spent agreeably with our countryman, Herr Bauer. On the 17th, having paid
a visit to Nureddin Effendi, in Wad Eraue, several hours distant from
Kamlîn, we arrived on the following day at SOBA, where I immediately sent
for one of the vases which had been found in the ruins of the ancient
city, and which was said to be kept by the brother of the Sheikh. After
waiting a long time, it was brought to us. It was an ancient vessel
for incense, made of bronze in filigree work. The sides of the vessel,
which was of a roundish form, and about nine inches high, and of similar
width, consisted solely of open-work Arabesques; the swinging chains had
been fastened to the upper border by three little hooks, one of which,
however, has broken away, so that the most interesting part of the whole,
an inscription running round beneath the border, and like the Arabesques
carved _à jour_, in rather large letters, thereby is unfortunately
incomplete. This is of peculiar importance, as the writing is again in
the Greek, or rather in the Coptic character, as on the stone-tablet; but
the language is neither of these, but doubtless the ancient vernacular
tongue of Soba, the capital of the mighty Kingdom of Alŏa. Short as it
is, it is distinguished from the stone inscription by containing the
Coptic signs ϣ (sch) and ϯ (ti), which are not to be found in the latter.
I purchased the vessel for a few piastres. This is now the third monument
of Soba which we take away with us, for I must mention, in addition,
that at the house of Seïd Haschim, in Wed Médineh, we also saw a small
Venus of Greek workmanship, carved in pure style, and about a foot high,
which had likewise been found in Soba, and was presented to me by its
owner. At length, on the 19th March, we again entered the house of Herr
Hermanovich, in Chartûm, later than our original calculations had led
us to expect, for which reason I had already communicated our delay to
Erbkam, in a letter from Wed Médineh.
LETTER XIX.
_Chartûm, the 21st March, 1844._
Here, for the first time, we received more exact intelligence of the
military revolt in Wed Médineh, which was of a most serious nature, and
would have infallibly thrown us into the greatest danger had we remained
two days longer in that town. All the black soldiers revolted while Emin
Pascha was residing there. The drill-sergeant and seven white soldiers
were killed immediately; the Pascha was besieged in his own house, which
was briskly fired into; his negotiators were repelled, and the powder
magazine seized. All the arms and ammunition, with the two cannons,
fell into the hands of the negroes, who then selected six leaders for
themselves, and set out in six divisions on the road to Fazoql to take
refuge in their mountains. The regiment in this place, which has about
1500 blacks in it, was at once disarmed, and will be kept within the
barracks. The most serious consequences are dreaded, as Ahmed Pascha
Menekle has been so inconsiderate as to take almost all the white troops
along with him to Taka; otherwise I should rejoice at the desertion of
the blacks, as they are treated in the most revolting manner by their
Turkish masters. Yet the insurrection may easily bring the whole country
into a state of disorder, and then, also, have an injurious influence
on our expedition. The blacks will undoubtedly endeavour on their road
to draw over to their own party whatever country people they meet,
especially the troops of Solimân Pascha in Sennâr, and of Selîm Pascha in
Fazoql. The whites are far too few to offer them effectual resistance.
News has just arrived that between five and six hundred slaves of the
late Ahmed Pascha, belonging to the indigo factory at Tamaniât, a little
to the north of this, have fled with their wives and children to the
Sudan, and intend to join the soldiers; the same is reported of the
factory at Kamlîn, so that we necessarily feel anxious about our friend
Bauer, who was not, indeed, cruel as the Turks are, but yet was a strict
master.
_26th March._—The news is spread that the troops in Sennâr and the people
belonging to Melek Idris Adlân, have put the negroes to the sword. It
is also said, that the slaves of Tamaniât have been overtaken by the
Arnauts, and murdered or dragged back, and that the revolt in Kamlîn has
been suppressed. Still we cannot build much on this, as the intelligence
reached me through our Kawass from the people belonging to the Pascha,
and the desire was also expressed that I should spread the news still
farther, and write about it to Cairo.
Yesterday, as we were walking in the dusk of the evening, in the large
and beautiful garden belonging to Ibrahim Chêr, in whose cheerful and
pleasantly-situated house I write this letter, we saw tall dark clouds of
sand rise like a wall on the horizon. A violent east wind has also been
blowing to-night ever since, and still blows, enveloping all the trees
and buildings in a disagreeable sandy atmosphere, which almost takes away
our breath. I have closed the window-shutters firmly, and barricaded the
door with stones, to be in some measure secured from the first assault;
nevertheless, I am constantly obliged to cleanse the sheet of letter
paper from the covering of sand which is incessantly thrown down on it.
I returned in such a tattered condition from my hunting excursion to
Sennâr, that I was at length obliged to assume the Turkish costume, which
I cannot now soon exchange again. It has its advantages for the customs
of this country, especially for sitting on coverlets, or low cushions;
but the Tarbusch, which lies so flat upon the head, is very ill-adapted
to this sunny sky, and the fastening of the innumerable buttons and hooks
is daily a most wearisome trial of patience.
_30th March._—We intend to leave Chartûm as soon as this packet of
letters is handed over to the Pascha. The revolution is now completely
suppressed in all parts. It would doubtless have had a far worse result
had it not, from a particular cause, broken out in Wed Médineh several
days too soon. It had been planned and secretly arranged for a long
time past in the whole of the south, and was not to have broken out
before the 19th of this month simultaneously in Sennâr, Wed Médineh,
Kamlîn, Chartûm, and Tamaniât. The precipitate movement in Wed Médineh
had, however, disarranged the whole plan, and had especially given time
to Emin Pascha to send messengers to Chartûm, by which means the negro
soldiers here were consigned and disarmed before news of the outbreak
had reached their ears. Emin Pascha, however, seems himself to have been
totally helpless. The victory is said to be solely due to the courage
and presence of mind of a certain Rustan Effendi, who with 150 devoted
soldiers, chiefly whites, pursued the negroes, who were 600 strong,
overtook them beyond Sennâr, and after attacking them three times,
defeated them, with great loss of life. Above a hundred of the fugitives
have surrendered, and have been taken to Sennâr in irons; the remaining
number were killed in the action, or leapt into the river and were
drowned there.
But the news arrived here at the same time, that an insurrection had also
broken out on account of the taxes in Lower Nubia, in Kalabsche, and
another village, that both villages had on that account been immediately
destroyed by Hassan Pascha, who is to come to Chartûm in place of Emin
Pascha, and that the inhabitants had been killed or driven away.
LETTER XX.
_The Pyramids of Meröe, 22nd April, 1844._
We quitted Chartûm on the 30th March, towards evening, and proceeded half
the night by moonlight.
The following day we arrived at TAMANIÂT. Almost the whole of the large
village had disappeared, and only one vast burning plain was to be seen.
The slaves in their revolt had laid everything in ashes, the walls of the
factory are alone left standing. As I had quitted the boat and arrived
on foot, I was unexpectedly startled near the still smoking ruins by
a horrible spectacle, for I suddenly found myself in an open piece of
garden, which was completely covered by the mutilated corpses of blacks.
The greatest proportion of the slaves who had been recaptured were here
shot down in masses.
We stopped at sunset in Surîe Abu Ramle, before a cataract, which we were
unable to pass during the night.
The 1st of April we again started long before daybreak, and thought we
should make a good step in advance. But the wind rose with the sun, and
as the boat could not be towed at this point on account of the rocky
banks, a few hours afterwards we were compelled to halt again, and to
lie quiet in the heavy, dense atmosphere of sand. In front of us lay the
insulated range of Qirre, detached from which, Aschtân (the Thirsty) on
our left hand, Rauiân (the Thirsty assuaged) on our right, stand forth
from the plain like watch-posts; the former, however, at a greater
distance from the river.
Rauiân was only about three-quarters of an hour distant from our boat.
I set out with my gun, traversed the bare stony plain, and climbed
the mountain, during the inundation season almost entirely surrounded
by water, for which reason we were always told that it stood upon an
island. The rock of which it is composed is granite, of a mixed coarse
and fine grain, with much quartz. On the road back, I passed the village
of Meláh, the huts of which lie hidden behind large mounds of upturned
earth, formed by the inhabitants when they dig for salt (malh). A great
deal of it is found in the surrounding country (thus Meláh is the Arabic
translation of salt-work, or Sulza). Towards evening we sailed on a
little farther, in the midst of the range, and lay to, in a little rocky
creek. The following day, also, we made but little progress. We saw
some black slaves wandering about like chamois, on the eastern summits
of the wild granitic rocks, who have perhaps escaped from Tamaniât, but
their miserable life will not probably be much longer prolonged. They
disappeared immediately again behind the jagged summits, our Kawass
having indulged in the brutal jest of firing at them in the air. I
climbed up the western mountains with Abeken; they rise precipitously for
about 200 or 300 feet from the bank. It is evident here, by the natural
walls of rock, to what height the river rises and deposits its mud at
high-water. I measured nearly 8 metres (26 feet English) from that point
to the surface of the water at the present moment, and the river will
continue to sink about 2 feet more.
From the summit of the mountain we saw the wide desert extending behind
the farthest eminences, and soon after passing Méraui, we shall be
wandering across it. We quitted the picturesque range of mountains with
regret, which form such an agreeable interruption to the flat banks of
this far and wide level country.
On the morning of the 4th April, we at length reached our group of
palm-trees at BEN NAGA, and immediately went to the ruins in the Wadi el
Kirbegân, where we found a portion of a pillar, and several altars in the
south-eastern temple which had been newly-excavated by Erbkam; the same
Royal Shields were upon them as upon the principal temples of Naga in
the desert, besides several others which had not previously appeared. Of
the three altars that had been excavated, the central one, of very hard
sandstone, was in excellent preservation. On the western side there was
a representation of the King, on the eastern, of the Queen, with their
names, and on both the other sides were two goddesses. On the northern
side the hieroglyphic group of the North was also inscribed, and on the
southern that of the South. Both the other altars exhibited the same
figures. All three were still standing on their original site, and were
let into a smooth floor, which was composed of square slabs of stone
covered with plaster. Unfortunately I had not then the means of carrying
away the best of these altars, which weighed at least 50 cwt., and I had,
therefore, to plan a special excursion from Meröe for the purpose.
On Good Friday, the 5th April, we arrived at Schendi. We entered the
widely-scattered but depopulated town, saw the ruins of the palace
of King Nimr, in which he had burnt Ismael Pascha, after a nocturnal
festival which he had prepared for him, and many houses which still bore
traces of the balls of Defterdar Bey, who was sent by Mohammed Ali to
revenge the death of his son. The dwelling of King Nimr, which now also
lay in ruins, used to stand in the centre of the town on an artificial
eminence. The suburb, built for the present military garrison, is at
a little distance up the river, and separated from the town. We then
returned to the boat, which had put in near the fortress-like house of
Churshid Pascha, where the military commander now resides.
On the same day we arrived, shortly before sunset, at Beg´erauîeh, and
immediately rode to the Pyramids, where we once more found Erbkam and the
remainder of the party safe and sound. They have been diligently drawing
in Naga and Wadi Sofra, and the rich costume of the kings and gods, as
well as the representations belonging to these Ethiopian temples in
general, devoid of style indeed, but ornamental, look very well on paper,
and will make a splendid show in our sketch-books. Much had been done in
this spot also, and many new things had come to light in clearing out
the ante-chambers, which had been full of rubbish. Abeken thought, even,
during our first visit, that he had found the name of the Queen KENTAKI
(CANDACE). Now, indeed, we see that the Shield is not written
𓍹𓎡𓈖𓍘𓇋𓎡𓇌𓏏𓆇𓍺 but 𓍹𓎡𓈖𓍘𓇋𓎱𓇌𓏏𓆇𓍺
which would read KENTAHEBI; nevertheless it seems to me to have meant
that famous name, and that the questionable sign merely has been changed
by the ignorant scribes. The determinative signs 𓏏𓆇 prove, at least, that
it is the name of a Queen. The name of CANDACE was known even at an
earlier period as that of a private person. The name of ERGAMENES is
likewise found, and this also written sometimes correctly, sometimes
with mistaken variation.
We kindled Easter bonfires on the evenings of the succeeding holidays.
Our tents are situated between two groups of Pyramids in a small hollow
of the valley, which is everywhere covered with dry tufts of a woody
grass. We lighted this all about us; it blazed up high, and flung the
whirling flames upwards into the dark starry night. The spectacle of
fifty or sixty such fires burning at once in the valley was beautiful;
they threw a ghost-like light on the half-crumbled Pyramids of the old
kings ranged on the eminences round, and on our airy tent-pyramids rising
in the foreground.
We were surprised on the 8th of April by seeing a magnificent cavalcade
of horses and camels, which appeared within our camp. It was OSMAN BEY,
who, as the chief in command, is leading back the army of 5000 men from
Taka. The French military surgeon, Peney, was in his suite, besides the
Chief Sheikh Ahmed welled ʾAuad. The troops had encamped near Gabuschié,
one hour farther up the river, and were to pass through Beg´erauîeh
in the evening. The visit to our camp had, however, another object,
which was soon disclosed in the course of conversation. Osman Bey was
desirous of making treasure-diggers out of his pioneers, and of ordering
some battalions to come hither, to pull down a number of Pyramids. The
discovery of Ferlini is still remembered by most people, and has since
that time caused the ruin of many Pyramids. They were also full of it at
Chartûm, and more than one European, besides the Pascha himself, imagined
they might still find treasures there. I constantly endeavoured to prove
to them all, that the discovery of Ferlini was pure chance, that he had
not found the gold rings in the sepulchral chambers with the mummies,
where they alone might reasonably have been searched for with any hope
of success, but walled up in the stone, in which place they had been
concealed by a whim of the owner. I endeavoured to convince Osman Bey
of this also, who even offered me the aid of his companies of soldiers
to conduct the work of destruction. I naturally declined this, though
perhaps I should have accepted it for the sake of laying open to view
the sepulchral chambers, which necessarily must have their entrance in
front of the Pyramids in the natural rock, had I not feared that here
also we might not arrive at any brilliant result, and even if our own
expectations were not so, yet those of the credulous general might be
bitterly disappointed. I succeeded in diverting him from his idea, and
thus for the present, at least, the existing Pyramids have been saved.
The soldiers have departed without having made war on the Pyramids.
I invited the three gentlemen to dine with us, which placed the old
Sheikh in some embarrassment, for he was always trying to cut the meat
with the back of his knife, till at length I myself laid aside the
European implements, and began to eat in good Turkish fashion; my example
was soon followed willingly by the rest of the company, especially by
our excellent dark-skinned guest, who did not fail to observe my polite
attention. After dinner they again mounted their sumptuously-caparisoned
animals, and the procession hastened towards the river.
On the 9th of April, I sent Franke and Ibrahim Aga to Ben Naga, with
stone-saws, hammers, and ropes, to transport the great altar to this
spot. I myself rode with Jussuf to Gabuschié, partly to return the
visit of Osman Bey, who had intended to give the soldiers a day of rest
in our neighbourhood, partly to take advantage of the presence of the
distinguished Sheikh Ahmed, through whose interest I hoped to procure
boats to carry us across the river, and camels for the desert journey
that we had in prospect. The army had, however, already decamped, and had
passed the first places on the road. I therefore rode after them with
Jussuf in a brisk trot, and soon overtook the 400 Arnauts who formed
the rear. They were not, however, able to inform us how far Osman Bey
was in advance. The Arnauts are the soldiers most dreaded in the whole
country for brutality and cruelty, who at the same time are treated with
most indulgence by their leaders, because they are the only troops who
serve voluntarily, and the only foreigners taken into pay. It is but a
few months ago since they were sent to the late Ahmed Pascha by Mohammed
Ali, under an officer who was peculiarly feared, with the order, as it
is said, to bring the Pascha, dead or alive, to Cairo. The sudden death
of the Pascha at all events released him from his commission. The name
of that officer is Omar Aga, but he is known through the whole country
by the not very flattering appellation of Tomus Aga (Commandant Cochon)
which was once given him by Ibrahim Pascha, and which, since that time,
he himself thinks it an honour to bear. His own attendants, when we
overtook his horses and baggage, and inquired after their master, called
him by this name. After riding briskly for about five or six hours in the
most oppressive heat, we at length reached the camp at the village of
Bêida.
We had by degrees gone more than half-way to Schendi, and were rejoiced
at the near prospect of finding some refreshment, after the exhaustion
of the hot ride; for we had already made up our minds to fast, till our
return in the evening, as there was absolutely nothing that we could eat
in the villages between; there was not even milk to be had.
Osman Bey and Hakîm Peney were as much surprised as delighted at
my visit; some bowls of _Suri_ were immediately brought for our
refreshment—a beverage which undergoes a slow and troublesome process of
preparation, from half-fermented Durra; it is an agreeable acid, and,
especially with sugar, has a most excellent and refreshing taste. After
our breakfast, I went through the camp with Peney. The tents were pitched
along the river in the most picturesque variety of groups, on a great
space of ground here and there scattered over with trees and thicket, and
completely surrounded by it. An Egyptian army, composed half of blacks
and half of whites, most of them in tatters, returning in forced marches
from a depredatory expedition against the poor natives, presents, indeed,
a very different aspect from what we are accustomed to witness at home.
Although the intimidated population of Taka, for the most part innocent
of individual revolt, had already sent messengers to the Pascha, to avert
his vengeance, and moreover, on the approach of the troops, had not
offered the slightest resistance, nevertheless, several hundred unarmed
men and women, who either would not, or could not fly, were murdered by
that notorious troop of Arnauts; and Ahmed Pascha caused a number of
other men, who were believed to have been concerned in the insurrection,
as they were each led before him, to be beheaded in front of his tent.
Then, after all the conditions that were imposed had been fulfilled,
and the heavy contributions which had been required from them under
every variety of pretext had been also correctly paid, the Pascha caused
all the Sheikhs to assemble at once, as if for a fresh conference, but
forthwith had them all put in fetters, together with 120 other people,
and led away as prisoners. The young and strong men were to be placed
among the troops, the women handed over to the soldiers as slaves; the
Sheikhs were reserved for punishment till a later day.