The most important results we obtained, therefore, were in Chronology

and History. The Pyramid-fields of Memphis gave us a notion of the

Civilisation of Egypt in those primitive times, which is pictorially

presented to us in 400 large drawings, and will be considered in future

as the first section in that portion of the history of man, capable of

investigation, and must be regarded with the greatest interest. Those

earliest Dynasties of Egyptian dominion, now afford us more than a barren

series of empty, lost, and doubtful names. They are not only free from

every real doubt and arranged in the Order and the Epochs of time, which

have been determined by a critical examination, but by showing us the

flourishing condition of the people in those times, both in the affairs

of the State, Civil affairs, and in the Arts, they have received an

intellectual and frequently a very individual historical reality. We

have already mentioned the discovery of five different burial-places of

the 6th Dynasty in Central Egypt, and what we obtained from them. The

prosperous times of the New Monarchy, namely, the period of splendour in

the Thebaid, as well as the Dynasties which followed, were necessarily

more or less completed and verified. Even the Ptolemies, with whom

we appeared to be perfectly acquainted in the clear narratives of

Grecian history, have come forward in a new light through the Egyptian

representations and inscriptions, and their deficiencies have been filled

up by persons who were hitherto considered doubtful, and were hardly

mentioned by the Greeks. Lastly, on the Egyptian monuments we beheld the

Roman emperors in still greater and almost unbroken series, in their

capacity of Egyptian governors, and they have been carried down since

Caracalla, who had hitherto been considered as the last name written in

hieroglyphics, through two additional later emperors, as far as Decius,

by which means the whole Egyptian monumental history has been extended

for a series of years in the other direction.

Egyptian Philology has also made considerable progress by this journey.

The lexicon has been increased by our becoming acquainted with several

hundred signs, or groups, and the grammar has received a great many

corrections. Such copious materials have also been acquired for these

purposes, especially by the numerous paper impressions of the most

important inscriptions, that Egyptian Philology must be essentially

furthered by their being gradually adopted. For owing to the strict

accuracy of these impressions, they are almost as valuable, in many

investigations, as an equally large collection of original monuments.

In addition to this, the history of the Egyptian language, which by the

great age attributed to the earliest written monuments, embraces a period

of time between five or six thousand years, becomes now of much greater

importance in the universal history of the human language and writing.

Among the individual discoveries we made, the one which attracted most

attention, was that of the two decrees on the Island of Philæ, which

were bilingual, namely, written in hieroglyphics, and in the demotic

character,—one of which contains the decree belonging to the Rosetta

inscription, referring to the wife of Epiphanes.

In spite of numerous writings upon Egyptian Mythology, it has

nevertheless been hitherto deficient in a fixed monumental basis.

In the Temple at Thebes we beheld a series of representations whose

meaning had not hitherto been recognised, and which seem to me to afford

entirely new conclusions for the correct comprehension and development

of Egyptian mythology. The series of the first arrangement of the gods

mentioned by Herodotus and Manetho, which in modern investigations has

been differently arranged in its details by all scholars, is at length

placed beyond all doubt, and certainly differs in all essential points

from what has been hitherto everywhere adopted. I will briefly allude

here to another fact, important both in the history of mythology as

well as in a purely historical point of view, and which was elicited by

an attentive investigation of the monuments. The direct succession of

the reigning royal family was interrupted, towards the end of the 18th

Dynasty. Through the monuments we became acquainted with several kings of

this period, who were not afterwards admitted in the legitimate lists,

but were regarded as unauthorised cotemporary or intermediate kings.

Among these Amenophis IV. is to be particularly noted, who, during a

very active reign of twelve years, endeavoured to accomplish a complete

reformation of all secular and spiritual institutions. He built a royal

capital for himself in Central Egypt, near the present Tel-el-Amarna,

introduced new offices and usages, and aimed at no less a thing than to

abolish the whole religious system of the Egyptians, which had hitherto

subsisted, and to place in its stead the single worship of the _Sun_. In

all the inscriptions composed during his reign, there is not one Egyptian

god mentioned except the Sun; even in other words the sacred symbols

were avoided, _e. g._ the word _mut_, mother, Coptic ⲙⲁⲧ, was no longer

written as usual with the hawk 𓅐𓐴𓏏, the symbol of the goddess _Mut_, but

𓐝𓐰𓏏, MT, with the universal phonetic signs. Indeed, the former gods and

their worship were persecuted to such an extent by this king, that he

erased all the gods’ names, with the single exception of the Sun-god

_Ra_, from every monument that was accessible throughout the country,

and because his own name, Amenophis, contained the name of Ammon, he

changed it into Bech-en-aten, “Worshipper of the Sun’s disk.” Therefore

the fact, which has often been previously remarked, that at one particular

period the name of Ammon was intentionally destroyed, forms only part of

an event which had a much wider influence, and which unexpectedly reveals

to us the religious movements of those times.

The History of Art has never yet been considered in the point of view

from which Egypt, and all that concerns it, is now regarded. This

necessarily formed a particular object of our expedition, and most

directly gained by the increased chronological knowledge we obtained

concerning the monuments. For the first time we were able to pursue all

its branches during the old Egyptian Monarchy, previous to the invasion

of the Hyksos, and accordingly to extend both it and the history of Egypt

about sixteen centuries farther back, and some tens of years lower down

in time. The different epochs of Egyptian art now first appeared clear

and distinct, each marked by its peculiar character, intimately connected

with the general development of the people. They had so frequently been

misunderstood, that no one believed in their existence; they were lost

in the general uniformity. I must mention, as one of the most important

facts connected with this, that we found innumerable instances on

unfinished monuments of three different canons of proportions of the

human body; one belonging to the most ancient Pharaonic Monarchy, another

later than the 12th Dynasty, when Thebes first began to flourish; a

third, which appears at first in the time of the Psammetichi, with an

entire alteration in the Principle of the division, and which remained

unaltered till the time of the Roman emperors. The last is the same

which Diodorus expressly mentions in his first book. Among the separate

branches of Egyptian art, Architecture, which was almost unnoticed by

the French-Tuscan expedition, was with us peculiarly attended to, by

the extremely careful and circumspect labours of our architect Erbkam.

This was befitting the important position occupied by this particular

branch, in which grandeur, that element of art, peculiarly belonging to

the Egyptian beyond all other nations, was capable of being developed,

and has developed itself to the utmost. The study of the sculpture

and paintings devolved upon the other artists who accompanied us, and

the ability and fidelity with which they fulfilled their task must be

recognised by every one. The Egyptian style associated with the limited

views characteristic of the infancy of art, nevertheless possesses a

highly-cultivated ideal element, which must be acknowledged by every

one. The genius of Greece could never have bestowed on art such a marked

character, indicative of a period of prosperous liberty, if it had not

received it as a severe, chaste, and carefully nurtured child from the

Egyptians. The principal task of the history of Egyptian art is to point

out wherein consisted this cultivation of art, peculiar to the Egyptians,

above all the primitive nations of Asia.

In the next place, Egyptian archæology, in the widest sense of the word,

claimed a large portion of our time and attention: an extensive field,

already examined, both successfully and diligently, by Wilkinson and

Rosellini, which they were enabled to do by means of the inexhaustible

number of separate objects belonging to every-day life, still in

preservation, and by the representations of them, which are found in all

directions, far surpassing any other ancient remains.

On that account it was still more necessary to make a stricter

investigation, and to regard it from a higher point of view, rather than

accumulate a greater number of individual things, that notwithstanding

obtruded themselves on all sides, and which, besides, we collected in

large quantities, as material to work upon.

Lastly, Geography and Chorography, which travellers are especially

expected to promote, required to be more peculiarly prosecuted. We must

particularly mention here, that besides the peculiar investigation of

the Pyramid fields at Memphis, and in the Faiûm, which have been already

alluded to, our records of the ruins of towns, and ancient monuments

in the Nile country, as far up as Sennâr, are more perfect and exact

than any hitherto made. With regard to the modern geographical names,

which must always be viewed in comparison with the ancient, I have been

most particular in obtaining the Arabic names—at least, throughout the

district we traversed—in order to counteract, as far as lay in my power,

the insufferable confusion in the names which are marked down. During

the journey, I made special maps for the individual portions of the

eastern mountains of Egypt and the peninsula of Sinai, and I collected

geographical accounts from travellers concerning some remote districts,

which we did not enter, and which are but little known; and I had

geographical drawings made of them. Our investigations of the historical

places in the peninsula of Sinai have been already alluded to. The

discovery, mentioned above, of the most ancient Nilometer at _Semneh_,

has added, in a remarkable degree, also to the history of the physical

condition of the Nile valley; since it is quite evident, from the water

just above the second Cataract, standing at that time twenty-two feet

higher than at present, and the height of the water in the Thebaid being

contemporaneously twelve to fifteen feet lower, that the fall of the Nile

in the intermediate country was thirty-five feet greater in those times

than it is now. But this gradual levelling of the bed of the river must

have had the most decided influence on the history of the cultivation

of the valley, and of the whole population; because the soil on the

banks of the river in the district of Nubia, more especially owing to

the considerable sinking of the water, being inaccessible to the natural

overflowings, was laid dry, and could only be irrigated with great

difficulty, and imperfectly, by means of artificial water-wheels.

Considerable progress was made in the knowledge of the African languages,

by the investigation which I was principally enabled to make in the

southern part of our journey. I inquired into and noted down as much

of the grammar and vocabulary of three languages, as would enable me

to give a distinct idea of them. First, Kongára, spoken at Dar-Fûr and

the adjacent countries, a Central African-Negro language. Secondly,

the Nuba language, which is spoken in two chief dialects, in one part

of the Nubian-Nile valley and in the neighbouring countries situated

to the south-west, and also appears to be derived from the interior of

Africa. It had hitherto never been a written language, and I collected

together for the first time a piece of written Nubian literature, for

I made a Nubian Sheikh, who was perfectly familiar with the Arabic

language and writing, translate the Fables of Locman, a portion of the

Thousand and One Nights, and the Gospel of St. Mark, from the Arabian

into the Nubian tongue, and write down besides nineteen Nubian songs,

some of them in rhyme, some only rhythmical, and translate them into

Arabic. Unfortunately, these precious packets, all but the Nubian gospel,

were lost in Europe, with little hope of recovery. The third language

investigated by me was the Beg´a, which is spoken by the Bischâri

nation, who dwell between the Red Sea and the Nubian Nile. This language

occupies an important position with reference to philology, since it

seems to be a branch of the original Asiatic stock, of which the African

offsets may be comprehended under the name of the HAMITIC languages; and

is, besides, particularly interesting in our study of the monuments,

because, most probably, it was once the key to decipher the ancient

Ethiopian inscriptions, numbers of which were discovered by us upon the

Island of Meröe, and from that place, in the Nile valley, as far down as

Philæ. These inscriptions are written in simple characters, from right to

left, and derive their origin from the powerful nation of the Meröitic

Ethiopians, whose direct descendants we behold in the present Beg´a

nations. By comparing those languages with the other languages of Africa,

which are already better known, I think I shall be able to separate,

according to fixed principles, these “Hamitic languages” of north and

north-east Africa (which may still be referred to their native home in

Asia) from the numerous other languages of this enigmatical continent;

and I am now engaged in preparing these philological investigations for

special publication.

I must finally mention, among the results of our journey, two collections

of inscriptions. In the first place, all the Greek inscriptions in the

countries we travelled through were carefully sought out, and impressions

of them were taken upon paper; by which Græco-Egyptian archæology,

and more particularly the learned collections of inscriptions which

have lately excited such lively interest, will probably be completed,

confirmed, or justified in a satisfactory manner. Secondly, in the

peninsula of Sinai we made as perfect a collection as was possible of

the so-called _Sinaitic Inscriptions_, which are found engraved on the

rocks in different districts of the peninsula, but principally in the

neighbourhood of the old town of Faran, at the foot of the mountain range

of Serbâl, and at a resting-place of the caravans in Wadi Mokatteb,

situated farther north, which is named after them.

We were only able casually to turn our attention to objects of Natural

Science; nevertheless, I did not however neglect, especially during

remote mountainous journeys, to collect specimens of stone and earth

from the more remarkable localities. We not only visited the celebrated

stone quarries in the chalk mountains of Tura, in the sandstone range of

Selseleh, in the granite rocks of Assuan, and others situated in the Nile

valley, but also those alabaster quarries of El Bosra, opposite Siut,

which were discovered a few years ago by the Bedouins, in which last we

found a rock-inscription from the commencement of the 17th Dynasty. They

resemble those quarries of granite and brecciaverde at HAMMAMÂT, upon

the road leading from Qeneh to the Red Sea, which have been worked from

the earliest times, and also the porphyry and granite quarries at Gebel

Fatireh (Mons Claudianus), and at Gebel Dochân (Mons Porphyrites), in the

Arabian chain of mountains, celebrated in the Roman period. I also had

an opportunity of purchasing an interesting Ethnographical and Natural

History collection in Alexandria, obtained by H. Werne during Mohammed

Ali’s second expedition up the Nile, which penetrated as far as the 4°

N. lat., of which an account was published; and I received a valuable

collection of Egyptian fishes for the Anatomical Museum in Berlin, from

the celebrated French physician Clot Bey.

LETTERS FROM EGYPT AND ETHIOPIA.

DEDICATED, WITH THE PROFOUNDEST VENERATION AND GRATITUDE, TO ALEXANDER

VON HUMBOLDT.

LETTER I.

_On board the Oriental Steamer, the 5th of September, 1842._

All our efforts were taxed to enable us to depart on the 1st September;

the delay of one day would have cost us a whole month, so it was

necessary to be doubly active. A visit to Paris was indispensable, and I

reached it in thirty-one hours from London; but two days were all that

could be spared to procure what was requisite in the way of purchases,

letters, and notes. I returned richly laden from this city, ever rich

to me in interest, information, and various proofs of kindness. In

London, I acquired two additional excellent travelling companions—Bonomi

and Wild, who had lately determined to share in the expedition on an

independent footing. The former, already well known as a traveller in

Egypt and Ethiopia, not only has a thorough practical acquaintance with

the mode of life in those parts, but also possesses a critical knowledge

of Egyptian art, and is a master in Egyptian drawing; the latter, a young

architect, full of genius, seeks with enthusiasm in the East a new field

for the exercise of the rich and various gifts with which he is endowed.

At length, everything was purchased, provided, and packed, and we had

bid farewell to our friends. Bunsen alone, with his usual kindness, and

unwearied friendship, accompanied us as far as Southampton, the place of

our embarkation, where we spent the evening together.

As at other times, when landing from a stormy sea after days of rough

tossing, we suddenly enjoy an almost inconceivable degree of repose in

the quiet harbour, although for a long time we still feel the ground

tottering beneath us, and fancy we hear the sound of the breakers, so

on this occasion I experienced the same, though the case was reversed;

when, after the whirl of the last days and weeks, and coming from the

immense metropolis of the world, I reached the harbour, and entered the

narrow, quickly traversed and surveyed, wooden house of the monotonous

wilderness of the ocean. All at once there was nothing more to provide

and to hasten; the long row of more than thirty chests of our baggage

had vanished piece by piece into the dark hold of the ship; our cabins

required no arrangement, for they could scarcely contain more than our

own persons. The absence of disturbance for some time caused a new and

undefined kind of disturbance: anxiety, without anything to be anxious

about.

Among the passengers, I will only mention the missionary Lieder, a German

by birth, returning with his English wife to Cairo. Commissioned by the

English Missionary Society, he has founded and conducted a boys’ and

girls’ school there, which is now to be restricted exclusively to the

children of the Coptic Christians. Lieder has introduced instruction

in the Coptic language into this school, and has thus restored to an

honourable position that remarkable and most ancient language of the

country, which, for many centuries past, has been entirely supplanted

among the people by the Arabic tongue. It is true that the Holy

Scriptures still exist in the country in the Coptic tongue, and are even

used in public worship, but they are only chanted as psalms, and are no

longer understood.

We started from Southampton on the 1st September, about ten o’clock in

the morning. The wind was against us, and therefore we did not reach

Falmouth till twenty-four hours afterwards, where our ship waited for the

London mail, to take in the letters. We remained several hours at anchor

there, in a charming bay; an old castle is situated at the entrance

on either side, while in the background the town forms an extremely

picturesque group. About three o’clock we again put to sea, and as there

was a side-wind, it caused much sea-sickness among our party. I consider

myself fortunate, that even on the most stormy voyages I have never been

in this disagreeable condition, which nevertheless has something comic

in it for those who are not suffering. It is a curious circumstance that

the same motion which rocks the child into a sweet slumber, or which

invites us to a pleasure-sail in the tossing boat, on shipboard owing

to the slower time of the wide-swinging pendulum, becomes intolerable

suffering, and prostrates the strongest heroes, without, however, being

accompanied by any serious danger.

The following day we reached the Bay of Biscay, and with difficulty

cut through the long and deep waves, which rolled out from the distant

coast. On the morning of the 4th instant, Sunday, very few appeared at

breakfast. About eleven o’clock, in spite of the violent motion, we

assembled for divine service. The English flag, as the most sacred cloth

in the ship, was spread over the pulpit desk; Herr Lieder preached,

simply and well. About four o’clock we saw the Spanish coast for the

first time, in faint, misty outline. The nearer we approached it, the

waves gradually fell, for the wind blew off shore. Air, sky, and sea were

incomparably beautiful. Cape Finisterre, and the adjoining head-lands,

became more clear. We descried several small sailing-vessels along the

coast; and all kinds of sea-fowl swarmed round the ship. By degrees, the

whole company, even the ladies, collected on deck. The sea became as

smooth as the clearest mirror, and we kept the Spanish coast in sight

the whole afternoon. The sun descended magnificently into the sea; the

evening star was soon followed by the whole host of the heavenly stars,

and a glorious night wrapt around us.

But now the most splendid spectacle presented itself that I have ever

seen at sea. The ocean began to lighten up, all the crests of the

breaking waves glowed with an emerald-green fire, and a brilliant

greenish-white waterfall fell from the paddle-wheels of the vessel, which

left in its long wake a broad, light streak in the dark sea. The sides of

the vessel, and our downward gazing faces, were lighted up as bright as

moonlight, and I was able to read print without any difficulty by this

water-fire. When the illuminating matter, which, according to Ehrenberg’s

researches, proceeds from infusorial animalculæ, was most intense, we saw

flames dancing over the sea, as far as the coast, so that it seemed as

if we were sailing through a more richly-starred sky than that which was

above us. I have frequently observed this illumination of the sea on the

Mediterranean also, but never with such extraordinary brilliancy as on

this occasion. The spectacle was quite like enchantment.

Suddenly I observed between the waves new living streaks of fire, which

radiated from the vessel like two gigantic serpents, and, judging by the

proportions of the ship, were at least from sixty to eighty feet long;

they moved in a deceptive manner, in large windings beside the vessel,

crossed the waves, dipped into the foam of the paddle-wheels, reappeared,

retreated, hurried forward, and finally vanished in the distance. For

a long time I could not explain this phenomenon. I thought of the old

tales, so frequently repeated, of the huge sea-serpents which have been

seen from time to time. Nothing could more closely resemble what was

here before us. At length it occurred to me that it might however only

be fishes running a race with the vessel, and, by their rapid movements,

brushing the surface of the luminous sea, they might produce the long

streaks of light behind them. Nevertheless, the ocular demonstration

remained as deceptive as before; I could discover nothing of the dark

fishes, nor determine their size; but I at length consoled myself by my

own conjecture.

LETTER II.

_Alexandria, the 23rd of September, 1842._

I put my last letter into the post in Gibraltar, on the 7th September,

where we employed the few hours which were granted us in viewing the

citadel. The African continent lay before us, a light streak on the

horizon. Beneath me, apes were clambering on the rocks, the only ones

in Europe which live in a wild state, and on that account they are

left unmolested. In Malta, which we reached on the 11th September, we

found the painter Frey, from Basle, whom I had known at Rome. He told

me first, by word of mouth, that he desired to join in the expedition,

and had arrived some days before from Naples. We were compelled to wait

nearly three days for the post from Marseilles. This gave us at least

an opportunity to visit the wonders of the island; namely, the gigantic

buildings discovered, a few years back, near La Valetta, and to make

some purchases. Through Lieder, I became acquainted with Gobat, who has

hitherto managed the Maltese station of the English Missionary Society,

but is now waiting for a new destination, as pecuniary circumstances

compel the society to give up this station entirely. It gave me great

pleasure to make the acquaintance of this distinguished person.[2]

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