CHAPTER III

THE HIGHLANDS OF EAST AFRICA

"Colour" is already the dominant question at Nairobi. "We mean to make

East Africa a white man's country," cries, in strident tones, the

Colonists' Association on every occasion. Truly a respectable and

impressive policy; but one which seems, at first sight, rather

difficult to achieve in a land where there are, so far, fewer than two

thousand five hundred whites and more than four million black

aboriginals. Can East Africa ever become a white man's country? Can

even the Highlands, with their cool and buoyant breezes and temperate,

unchanging climate, become a white man's country? Never, certainly, in

the sense that Canada, or, indeed, the United Kingdom, are white men's

countries--that is to say, countries inhabited wholly by white people

and subsisting upon an economic basis of white unskilled labour.

It is scarcely worth while even to imagine the Highlands of East

Africa denuded of their native inhabitants and occupied solely by

Europeans. Such an idea is utterly impossible. Whatever may be the

increase in the white population in the future, it is safe to say that

it will be far more than counter-balanced by the multiplication of the

natives, as they are guarded against famine and prevented from civil

war. But were such a solution possible, it would be almost the last

thing in the world desired by those who clamour for "a white man's

country." For observe it is not against the black aboriginal that the

prejudices and interests of the white settler or trader are arrayed.

The African, it is conceded, is welcome to stay in his own country. No

economic competition has yet arisen or is likely to arise between him

and the new-comers. Their spheres of activity lie wholly apart, for

the white man absolutely refuses to do black man's work; not for that

harsh toil does he exile himself from the land of his birth; while the

native could not, in his present state of development, displace the

white man in skilled employments and the superintendence and the

organization of industry--even if he would--and nothing is farther

from his ambitions.

It is the brown man who is the rival. The European has neither the

wish nor the power to constitute a white proletariat in countries like

East Africa. In his view the blacks should be the private soldiers of

the army, but the non-commissioned officers and the commanders must be

white. This should not be dismissed as a mere assertion of racial

arrogance. It is an obstinate fact. It is already a grave defect for a

community to found itself upon the manual labour of an inferior race,

and many are the complications and perils that spring therefrom. But

what of the second storey? If there is to be any kind of white society

dwelling together year after year within the standards of life and

comfort to which Europeans have universally been accustomed to aspire,

and largely to attain, this middle stage in the economic system must

provide that white society with the means of earning--as professional

men, as planters, merchants, traders, farmers, bankers, overseers,

contractors, builders, engineers, accountants, clerks--a living for

themselves and their families. And here strikes in the Asiatic. In

every single employment of this class, his power of subsisting upon a

few shillings a month, his industry, his thrift, his sharp business

aptitudes give him the economic superiority, and if economic

superiority is to be the final rule--as it has never been and never

will be in the history of the world--there is not a single employment

of this middle class, from which he will not, to a very large extent,

clear the white man, as surely and as remorselessly as the brown rat

extirpated the black from British soil.

Then what remains? What sort of social organizations shall we be

building up with so much thought and labour in these new lands under

the British Crown? There is already no white working class. There is

to be no white middle class. Room is left only for the capitalist

_pure and simple_--if one may so describe him. A vast army of African

labourers, officered by educated Indians or Chinese, and directed by a

few individuals of diverse nationalities employing cosmopolitan

capital--that is the nightmare which haunts the white population of

South Africa, and at which what there is of a white population in East

Africa is already shrieking vigorously.

Yet hear the other side. How stands the claim of the British Indian?

His rights as a human being, his rights as a British subject, are

equally engaged. It was the Sikh soldier who bore an honourable part

in the conquest and pacification of these East African countries. It

is the Indian trader who, penetrating and maintaining himself in all

sorts of places to which no white man would go or in which no white

man could earn a living, has more than any one else developed the early

beginnings of trade and opened up the first slender means of

communication. It was by Indian labour that the one vital railway on

which everything else depends was constructed. It is the Indian banker

who supplies perhaps the larger part of the capital yet available for

business and enterprise, and to whom the white settlers have not

hesitated to recur for financial aid. The Indian was here long before

the first British official. He may point to as many generations of

useful industry on the coast and inland as the white settlers--especially

the most recently-arrived contingents from South Africa (the loudest

against him of all)--can count years of residence. Is it possible for

any Government with a scrap of respect for honest dealing between man

and man, to embark upon a policy of deliberately squeezing out the

native of India from regions in which he has established himself under

every security of public faith? Most of all must we ask, is such a

policy possible to the Government which bears sway over three hundred

millions of our Indian Empire?

We are in presence of one of those apparently hopeless antagonisms of

interests which baffle and dispirit all who are concerned in their

adjustment. And these questions are not confined to East Africa or to

South Africa. A whole series of new problems has arisen, and will grow

graver and larger as the immediate history of the British Empire

unfolds. They erect themselves upon a field almost wholly unstudied,

and familiar only by the prejudices which in every direction obstruct

movement and view. The entry of the Asiatic as labourer, trader, and

capitalist into competition in industry and enterprise not only

_with_, but _in_, the Western world is a new fact of first importance.

Cheap, swift, easy means of communication, the establishment of peace

and order over land and sea, the ever-growing inter-dependence of all

men and all countries upon one another, have given wings to Asiatic

commercial ambition and rendered Asiatic manual labour fluid, as it

has never before been fluid since the beginning of things.

Unless these new elements in the economic life of mankind can be

scientifically and harmoniously controlled and assimilated, great and

novel dangers menace alike the Asiatic and the European he supplants.

On the one hand we see the possible exploitation under various

unhealthy conditions of immense masses of Asiatic labour, to the moral

injury of the employer and to the degradation and suffering of the

employed; on the other the overturn of the standards of living

laboriously achieved or long obstinately battled for among Europeans.

Superadded to these we must foresee the confusion of blood, of

manners, of morals, amounting, where operative upon any extensive

scale, almost to the disintegration of the existing order of society.

And behind--very close behind--lie the appeals to force, by mobs or

Empires, to decide in a brutal fashion the brutal question which of

two sets of irreconcilable interests shall prevail. It is not easy to

measure the degree of political instability that will be introduced

into international relations, when the subjects of a powerful

military and naval State are continually exposed to penal legislation

and open violence, and into private life when the white artisan is

invited to acquiesce in his own extinction, in virtue of laws which he

himself controls, by a competitor whom, he believes, he could strike

down with his hands.

Yet the Asiatic, and here I also include the African native, has

immense services to render and energies to contribute to the happiness

and material progress of the world. There are spacious lands whose

promise can never be realized, there are unnumbered harvests which can

never be garnered, without his active co-operation. There are roads

and railways and reservoirs which only he can make. There are mines

and forests which will slumber for ever without his aid. The mighty

continent of tropical Africa lies open to the colonizing and

organizing capacities of the East. All those new products which modern

industry insistently demands are offered in measureless abundance to

the West--if only we could solve the Sphinx's riddle in its newest

form.

And is it after all beyond our reach to provide, if not a perfect, at

any rate a practical answer? There ought to be no insuperable

difficulty, in the present state of political knowledge and social

organization, in assigning different spheres to the external activity

of different races. The Great Powers have partitioned Africa

territorially; is it beyond the wit of man to divide it economically?

The co-operation of many different kinds of men is needed for the

cultivation of such a noble estate. Is it impossible to regulate in

full and intricate detail the conditions under which that co-operation

shall take place? Here white men can live and thrive; there they

cannot. Here is a task for one, there the opportunity of another. The

world is big enough. [I write as the stream of the Nile bears me

between the immense spaces of beautiful, fertile, unpopulated country

that lie north of the Albert Lake.] There is plenty of room for all.

Why cannot we settle it fairly?

It must be noted that the question of Asiatic immigration presents

itself to the Imperial point of view in several quite distinct forms.

There are, first of all, colonies which stand on the basis of a white

proletariat, and whose inhabitants, rich and poor, employers and

employed, are all Europeans. The right of such colonies to forbid the

entry of large numbers of Asiatics, and to preserve themselves from

the racial chaos and economic disturbance inseparable from such

immigration, cannot be denied, although its exercise ought no doubt to

be governed by various prudential and other considerations. But these

colonies differ markedly from those where the mass of the population

is not white, but black. Again, there are colonies which possess

responsible government, and where the number of the white middle-class

inhabitants very largely exceeds the Asiatic community. It is evident

that these stand in a wholly different position from that of places

like the tropical Protectorates of East and West Africa.

Indeed, it may be contended that the very fact that the native of

British India will undoubtedly, wisely or unwisely, rightly or

wrongly, be refused access in any large numbers to several South

African and all Australian Colonies by their respective Governments,

makes it all the more desirable that the Imperial Government should

afford in the tropical Protectorates outlet and scope to the

enterprise and colonizing capacity of Hindustan. And, as I have

written, these countries are big enough for all. There is no reason

why those Highland areas which promise the white man a home and a

career, and where alone he can live in comfort, should not, as a

matter of practical administration, be in the main reserved for him.

Nor, on the other hand, why the Asiatic, if only he does not teach the

African natives evil ways--a contingency which must not be

forgotten--should not be encouraged to trade and settle as he will in

the enormous regions of tropical fertility to which he is naturally

adapted. Somewhere in this direction--I do not wish to dogmatize--the

immediate course of sound policy would seem to lie, and, guided by the

lights of science and tolerance, we may easily find it.

But the course of these reflections has carried me a good deal farther

than the politics of Nairobi would seem to justify; and I hasten to

return to the question with which I started: "Can the Highlands of

East Africa be made 'a white man's country'?" Let us examine this by a

fresh process. As one rides or marches through the valleys and across

the wide plateaux of these uplands, braced by their delicious air,

listening to the music of their streams, and feasting the eye upon

their natural wealth and beauty, a sense of bewilderment overcomes the

mind. How is it they have never become the home of some superior race,

prosperous, healthy, and free? Why is it that, now a railway has

opened the door and so much has been published about them, there has

not been one furious river of immigration from the cramped and

insanitary jungle-slums of Europe? Why, most of all, are those who

have come--the pioneers, the men of energy and adventure, of large

ambitions and strong hands--why are they in so many cases only just

keeping their heads above water? Why should complaint and discontent

and positive discouragement be so general among this limited class?

I have always experienced a feeling of devout thankfulness never to

have possessed a square yard of that perverse commodity called "land."

But I will confess that, travelling in the East African Highlands for

the first time in my life, I have learned what the sensation of

land-hunger is like. We may repress, but we cannot escape, the desire

to peg out one of these fair and wide estates, with all the rewards

they offer to industry and inventiveness in the open air. Yet all

around are men possessing thousands of fertile acres, with mountains

and rivers and shady trees, acquired for little or nothing, all

struggling, all fretful, nervous, high-strung, many disappointed, some

despairing, some smashed.

What are the true lineaments concealed behind the veil of boundless

promise in which this land is shrouded? Are they not stamped with

mockery? Is not the eye that regards you fierce as well as bright?

"When I first saw this country," said a colonist to me, "I fell in

love with it. I had seen all the best of Australia. I had prospered in

New Zealand. I knew South Africa. I thought at last I had struck

'God's own country.' I wrote letters to all my friends urging them to

come. I wrote a series of articles in the newspapers praising the

splendours of its scenery and the excellence of its climate. Before

the last of the articles appeared my capital was nearly expended, my

fences had been trampled down by troops of zebra, my imported stock

had perished, my title-deeds were still blocked in the Land Office,

and I myself had nearly died of a malignant fever. Since then I have

left others to extol the glories of East Africa."

These second thoughts err, no doubt, as much on the side of

extravagant depression as the first impression was over-sanguine. But

that there is a rude reverse to the East African medal is a fact which

cannot be disputed, and which ought not, in the interests either of

the immigrant or of the country to be concealed. It is still quite

unproved that a European can make even the Highlands of East Africa

his permanent home--that is to say, that he can live there without

sensible degeneration for fifteen or twenty years at a stretch without

ever returning to the temperate zones; still less that he can breed

and rear families through several generations. The exhilaration of the

air must not lead people to forget that an altitude of from five to

eight thousand feet above the sea-level is an unusual condition,

producing results, not yet ascertained, upon the nervous system, the

brain, and the heart. Its coolness can never remove the fact that we

are upon the Equator. Although the skies look so familiar and kindly

with their white fleecy clouds and passing showers, the direct ray of

the sun--almost vertical at all seasons of the year--strikes down on

man and beast alike, and woe to the white man whom he finds

uncovered! Although sheep and oxen multiply so rapidly, although

crossing them with imported stock produces in each generation

astonishing improvements in quality, they are subject to many perils

little understood and often fatal. And if the landscape recalls to the

pensive traveller the peaceful beauties of gentler climes at home, let

him remember that it nurses with blithe fecundity poisonous reptiles,

and pest-spreading insects, and terrible beasts of prey.

There is no reason, however, for doubting that modern science

possesses, or will discover, the means of eradicating or mitigating

many of these evils. As the development of the country and the

scientific investigation of tropical agriculture and tropical disease

proceed, the difficulties which beset the early settler will gradually

be removed. He will learn how to clothe and house himself; what to

plant, what to breed, and what to avoid. The spread of East Coast

fever, now carried by the ticks from one animal to another, and

carried by the infected animals from one district to another, will be

arrested, and controlled by a proper system of wire-fencing and

quarantine. Remedies will be discovered against the various diseases

which attack sheep or horses. Zebra, rhinoceros, buffalo, and other

picturesque and fascinating nuisances will be driven from or

exterminated within the settled areas, and confined to the ample

reserves of uninhabited land. The slow but steady growth of a white

population will create a market for local agricultural produce. The

powerfully equipped Scientific Departments, the Veterinary and

Forestry Departments, and the Department of Agriculture newly

established on a considerable scale, will be able to guide and assist

the enterprise of the new-comer, and save him from repeating the

ill-starred experiments of the pioneer. Roads will improve, and

railways and mono-rail tramways will extend. Step by step life and the

means of living will become easier and more secure. Still it will not

be proved that the pure-bred European can rear his children under the

Equatorial sun and at an elevation of more than six thousand feet; and

till that is proved "the white man's country" will remain a white

man's dream.

I have written of Europeans and Asiatics. What of the African? About

four millions of these dark folk are comprised within the districts

of the East Africa Protectorate which are actually or partially

administered. Many more lie beyond those wide and advancing

boundaries. What is to be their part in shaping the future of their

country? It is, after all, _their_ Africa. What are they going to do

for it, and what is it going to do for them? "The natives," says the

planter, "evince a great reluctance to work, especially to work

regularly." "They must be made to work," say others. "Made to work for

whom?" we innocently ask. "For us, of course," is the ready answer;

"what did you think we meant?" And here we run into another herd of

rhinoceros questions--awkward, thick-skinned, and horned, with a short

sight, an evil temper, and a tendency to rush blindly up wind upon any

alarm. Is the native idle? Does he not keep himself and pay his taxes?

Or does he loll at his ease while his three or four wives till the

soil, bear the burden, and earn his living? And if idle, has he a

right to remain idle--a naked and unconscious philosopher, living "the

simple life," without cares or wants,--a gentleman of leisure in a

panting world? Is that to be the last word? Is civilization to say

definitely that when the African native has kept himself, or made his

women keep him, she has no further claim upon him? The white man shall

do the rest. He shall preserve the peace, that the tribes may prosper

and multiply. His watchful and foreseeing eye, strained and weary with

the effort, shall still make provision against famine; his science,

though he himself goes down in the struggle, shall grapple with

pestilence and cure disease. Far from his home or from his family he

shall hew the trees and dig the wells, shall dam the streams and build

the roads, with anxious heart and "in the sweat of his brow,"

according to the curse laid upon the child of many wants, while the

child of few wants watches him from the shade and thinks him mad.

And to compare the life and lot of the African aboriginal--secure in

his abyss of contented degradation, rich in that he lacks everything

and wants nothing--with the long nightmare of worry and privation, of

dirt and gloom and squalour, lit only by gleams of torturing knowledge

and tantalizing hope, which constitutes the lives of so many poor

people in England and Scotland, is to feel the ground tremble under

foot. "It would never do to have a lot of 'mean whites' in this

country," I heard one day a gentleman say. "It would destroy the

respect of the native for the white man, if he saw what miserable

people we have got at home." So here, at any rate, the boot is on the

other leg, and Civilization is ashamed of her arrangements in the

presence of a savage, embarrassed lest he should see what lies behind

the gold and purple robe of State, and begin to suspect that the

all-powerful white man is a fraud. But this is an irrelevancy!

I am clearly of opinion that no man has a right to be idle, whoever he

be or wherever he lives. He is bound to go forward and take an honest

share in the general work of the world. And I do not except the

African native. To a very much larger extent than is often recognized

by some who discuss these questions, the natives are industrious,

willing to learn, and capable of being led forward. Live for a few

weeks, as I have done, in close association with the disciplined

soldiers of the King's African Rifles, or with the smart sailors of

the Uganda Marine, and it seems wonderful to contrast them with the

population from which they have emerged. How strong, how good-natured,

how clever they are! How proud their white officers are of them! What

pains they take to please the travellers whom they escort; how frankly

they are delighted by a word of praise or thanks! Just and honourable

discipline, careful education, sympathetic comprehension, are all that

is needed to bring a very large proportion of the native tribes of

East Africa to a far higher social level than that at which they now

stand. And why should men only be taught to be soldiers? Is war always

to have the best of everything? Cannot peaceful industry be made as

attractive, be as highly organized, as carefully studied as the

combined use of deadly weapons? "Why," as Ruskin asks, "cannot men

take pride in _building_ villages instead of only _carrying_ them?"

I wonder why my pen slips off into these labyrinths, when all I set

out to do was to give some general idea of politics at Nairobi? But in

truth the problems of East Africa are the problems of the world. We

see the social, racial, and economic stresses which rack modern

society already at work here, but in miniature; and if we choose to

study the model when the whole engine is at hand, it is because on the

smaller scale we can see more clearly, and because in East Africa and

Uganda the future is still uncompromised. The British Government has

it in its hands to shape the development and destiny of these new

countries and their varied peoples with an authority and from an

elevation far superior to that with which Cabinets can cope with the

giant tangles at home. And the fact stirs the mind. But by this time

the reader will have had as much of East African politics as I had

when, after three days of deputations and disputations, the train

steamed out of Nairobi to take us to the Great Lake and beyond.

My African Journey · 第 3 / 11 章