Rocket, how used by the ancients; its properties, 87

Rockingham, his banquet (Lord), 227

Roebuck, with spikenard; aux prunes; aux amandes de pin, 184

Roll bread, 40

Romans, fond of agriculture, 11, 13

“ eat dogs, 151

“ their manipulation of butter, 171

“ fond of fish, 212, 216

Rome its corruption; its fall, 401

Romulus, studied the advancement of agriculture, 13

“ was found under a fig-tree, 114

Rope dancers, 395

Roquefort cheese, 174, 175

Rosatum wine, 331

Rousseau, (J. J.) was not a practical vegetarian, 126

Rue, a counter poison; its properties, 90

“ wine, 333

Russell (Sir Edward), his memorable punch, 411

Rye, a detestable food, according to Pliny, 20

“ a substitute for coffee, 311

Sacred chickens, 156

Salad could not be procured for a queen, 51

“ in the middle ages, 75

Salangan, sea-swallow, 204

“ nests, 205

Salmasius, on truffles, 281

Salmon, when first mentioned; sung by

Ausonius; from Aquitaine; abundant in Scotland, 233

Salonite cheese, 174

Salt, consecrated to the gods; from the

asphaltite lake; used by the Jews; tax on salt, 267

“ superstitions concerning salt, 267

“ salt works in Italy; eaten with bread; four sorts, 268

Salt-meat, its preparation, 131

“ cellars, 389

Salts, digestive, 269

Samos, its oil, 98

Sandaligeruli, servants, 377

Sandals, 388

Sapa, cooked wine, 326

Sardinia, renowned for hams, 137

Saturn, the inventor of agriculture, 9

Saucepans of the ancients, 262

Saucers, 263

Sauces of various kinds, 257

Sauce manufacturers, 257

Saupiquet sauce, 258

Sausages of Lucania, 138

“ various, 140

Savillum pie, 286

Savory, 89

“ wine, 333

Scales of the ancients, 130

Scaliger, repugnance to water-cresses, 84

Scallop of Tarentum, 246

Scarus, a fish, 223

“ its renown, 213

“ celebrated for its anomalies, 224

Scate, its back appreciated by the Greeks, 233

“ despised by the Romans; its varieties

according to Lacépède; its eggs a curious remedy, 233

Scissor, a carver, 377

Scoparii, sweepers, 378

Scythians, drinkers of milk, 168

“ their manipulation of butter, 171

Sea, peopled with gods, 294

“ crawfish, its culinary preparation, 247

“ eels, fed on the flesh of slaves, 208, 214

“ “ heard their master’s voice; ornamented with necklaces, 220

“ “ how fattened; where caught; how prepared; from the Tiber, 221

“ “ venerated by the Egyptians; of a considerable size, 222

“ hedgehog, relished by the ancients; how prepared, 245

“ swallow, 204

“ wolf, an exquisite fish; a child of the gods;

eclipsed the sturgeon; where caught; relished by the Greeks, 223

Seals, 215

Seasoning, plants used in, 86

Seasonings, 266

“ with garum, 272

Seats, 388

“ used by the Hebrews, 372

Secale, rye, 20

Sechar, an exhilarating beverage, 100

Seeds, 46

Sejus seasoning, 161

Selech, his services to mankind, 267

Seneca, his declamations against luxury; his enormous wealth, 252

Sensualism of the ancients, 345

Sentinum wine, 328

Sepia, its black liquid; its conjugal affection; how it was dressed, 234

Sepia, an estimable dish, 234

Sergius, his fishponds, 243

Servants, 376

Sesame, how used, 86

“ cakes, 20

Severus, fond of geese; of pheasants, 160, 195

“ hares, 189

Sévigné, her opinion on coffee (Mde. de), 312

Shad, sold to the plebeians, 234

Shadows, a kind of parasites, 388

Sheep bread, 40

Shell, imitating precious woods, 369

“ fish, 241

“ “ its seasoning in Italy; how dressed by Apicius;

from Lake Lucrinus; from Pelorus; how cooked;

when served; relished by the ancients, 242

“ fruit, 117

Shepherds, ancient, 127

Shoes of the Romans, 388

Shrimps used for garum, 270

Sicilian cooks, 344

Sicily, renowned for cooks, 256

Sideboard, 264

Sieves, 265

Sigma, a horse-shoe shaped table, 369

Silatum, a Roman drink, 334

Siligineus panis, a kind of bread, 38

Siligo, a species of wheat, 19

Simnels, or wigs, 291

Simon’s speculation on frogs, 249

Sitarchi, magistrates for the allotment of corn, 21

Sitocome, an inspector of corn, 21

Sitologi, officers to superintend the purchase of corn, 21

Sitometræ, officers watching over the measurement of corn, 21

Sitonæ, inspectors of corn, 21

Sitophylaces, officers regulating the sale, 21

Skeleton, exhibited to the guests, 385, 393

Slavery in ancient times, 208

Slaves, sold by Cato; cruelties practised

against slaves; punished by crucifixion;

put to death to amuse a friend, 208

“ thrown to the sea-eels, 208, 214

“ more null than vile, 209

“ eating with their masters, 356

“ their stigmas, 376

“ lettered slaves, 376

Snails, a delicate hors-d’œvre, 265

“ how fattened, 326

Snipe, 207

Snow, preserved in cellars, 295

“ cullender, 226

Soles, 237

“ compared to partridges, 224

“ much sought after, 237

Solon, his sumptuary laws, 108, 347

Sorrel, how prepared, 69

Soterides, Nicomedes’ cook, 44

Sow, Jupiter’s first nurse, 134

Sow-thistle, given up to rabbits, 87

Sowing taught by Ceres, 24

Spain, celebrated for garum, 243

Spaniards, fond of acorns, 24

Spanish camomile, mixed with wine, 90

“ dancers, 395

Spectacles introduced in banquets, 383

Spelt, a species of wheat, 19

Spinach, little known to the ancients, 63

Spoons, 263

Squirrel, 190

Stag, 182

Stags’ horns consecrated to Diana, 180

“ flesh supposed to ensure longevity, 183

“ fillet of stag; shoulder of stag;

à la Persane; à l’Hortensius; à la Néméenne, 183

“ pies, 290

Starling, recommended by physicians; an erudite starling, 200

Statues of gods placed on the table, 389

Steward, dispensator, 376

Stilphon, his answer to Cybele, 81

Stokers, focarii, 378

Stone fruit, 97

Stork, 193, 204

Stoves of the ancients, 366

Strawberries, highly appreciated, 115

Strigil, used in the baths, 387

Structores, servants, 260, 377

Strutiophagous tribes, 203

Stuffed sucking pork, 139

Sturgeon, 216

“ a royal fish, 214

“ its price; compared to ambrosia;

honours it received; announced by the sound

of trumpets; an imperial dish in China, 216

“ its weight, 217

“ compared to peacocks, 224

Style of living in the 14th century, 352

Sucking-pigs, 137

“ stuffed, 139

Sucking-pig, with puddings, 351

Sugar, the honey of reeds; the Indian salt, 275

Sultana coffee, 313

Sumach, 92

Sumptuary laws, 152, 252, 346, 350, 381

Supper, 342

“ of the Hebrews, 343

“ primitive of the Romans; in the open air, 344

“ given by the Roman Emperors, 357

“ a Roman, 386

Swallow, sea, 204

Swan, 193

Sweepers, scoparii, 378

Sweet marjoram, when used, 89

Sweet wine, 326

Sword-fish, how dressed in Greece; despised by the Romans, 234

Sybaris, renowned for its good cheer, 126

Sybarites, their meditations upon a banquet, 227

Sycophants, 113

Symphoniaci, musicians, 389

Symposiarch, 391

Synthesis, a convivial dress, 389

Syracuse, its proverbial gastronomy, 127

Syrian dancers, 395

Syrup of truffles, 280

Tables, before each guest; veneered with

gold; of bronze; of wood; of silver; circular, 368

“ spotted or veined; of various forms;

changed at each course; how cleaned; of Cicero, 369

“ of ivory, 394

Taillevant, the cook of Charles VII. of France, 193

Talmouses, a kind of pastry, 292

Tarentum, renowned for its repasts, 126

“ the abode of luxury, 246

Tarragona overthrown by rabbits, 189

Tarts, of various sorts, 290

Taste, its definition, 124

Tax on salt, 268

Tea, gathering, 306

“ of two kinds; heating; rolling, 307

“ its miraculous origin, 308

“ compared to ambrosia, 309

“ tasters, 308

Teal, 206

Teeth, of ivory, 388

Teething repast, 357

Tence sauce, 258

Tench, mentioned by Ausonius; left to the common people, 236

Tethalassomenon wine, 330

Tétines à la Flamine; à la Salienne, 140

Thalassites wine, 330

Thasian nut, 117

Thasos wine, 328

Theagenes, a beef eater, 143

“ his voracity, 339

Theophrastus mentions the cherrytree, 102

“ “ the plum tree, 105

“ fond of pears, 107

Thesmophoria, a feast in honour of Ceres, 22

Thessalians, their appetite, 340

Thimbron, a culinary star, 254

Thorian law, respecting cattle, 127

Thrashing of corn, 14

Thrushes, 197

“ supplied an abundant manure; not eaten by children;

sung by Homer; sent as wedding presents; served at

sumptuous feasts; from Daphne, 197

“ kept in aviaries; sold by Varro’s

aunt; how fed; their price; in the shape of crowns, 198

“ prescribed to Pompey; recommended

to convalescents; their brains; eaten by Heliogabalus, 199

Thurium, its oil, 98

Thyme, its qualities; used for aromatic liqueurs, 89

“ wine, 333

Thys, his voracity, 339

Tiberius, fond of melons, 78

“ reared peacocks, 167

“ his generosity, 257

“ poisoned by mushrooms, 282

“ how he encouraged artists, 318

“ his sumptuary regulations, 347

Timachidas, a cook and a poet, 254

Titormus, his voracity, 339

Tonsores, barbers, 387

Tooth-powder used by the Romans, 387

Tortoise, its blood; of an enormous size, 246

“ how dressed, 246, 247

Tourte, a kind of cake, 291

Tractatores, servants in the baths, 387

Tremellius, took the surname of Scrofa, 128

Triclinarches, chief steward, 378

Triclinium, 372, 278

Trimalcio, a celebrated cook, 256

Trimestre, a species of corn, 20

Tripes, their reputation, 143

Triptolemus, the inventor of agriculture, 9

“ was a vegetarian, 124

Triticum, wheat, 19

Trojan pig, 137

Tromelia, renowned for cheese, 174

Trophy of agriculture, 411

Trout, little appreciated by the Greeks;

“ relished by the Romans; how dressed, 230

Troyenne, hog à la, 136

“ wild boar à la, 406

Truffles, the daughters of thunder;

“ where they grow; various sorts, 279

“ how prepared, 280

“ discovered by pigs, 135, 279

“ syrup of, 280

“ how preserved, 281

Tunny-Fish, its entrails; from Samos;

“ offered to Neptune; of Pachynum;

fishery of the Synopians; how prepared, 225

“ obstructed the navigation of Alexander;

of an immense size, 226

“ used for garum, 270

Turbot, a delicious food; compared to the pheasant;

the turbot of Domitian, 224

“ of Attica, 225

Turnips, from Thebes; Amiternum; how they were eaten, 67

Turkey, still retains the use of garum, 273

Turkey-hen, 163

“ how many are required to eat a turkey-hen;

celebrated by Sophocles; bewailing the death of Meleager;

reared in Roman farms; scarce in Egypt and Greece;

introduced into Rome, 164

“ sacrificed to Caligula; how fattened; à l’Africaine, 165

“ how prepared, 166

“ introduced into various countries; admired

by Charles IX. of France, 165

“ turkey eggs, 166

Turtle dove, 207

Twelfth-night cake, its composition, 54

Typhes, a sort of bread, 33

Tyrontes, a sort of bread, 33

Tyrotarichus, a popular dish, 174

Uladislas (King), his repugnance to apples, 108

Ulric (St.) festival of, 215

Ulysses, renowned for carving, 129

“ laid the cloth, 252

“ a model of delicacy, 380

Unguentarii, perfumers, 387

Utensils, culinary, 261

“ of the 14th century, 265

Vanilla chocolate, 313

Variety of repasts, 354

Varro’s aviary, 198

Vase of the House of Brunswick, 302

Vases of Sardonyx, 320

“ of silver; of gold, 321

Vatel, his tragic death, 215

Vauban’s recipe for eating corn in soup, 15

Veal, à la Syracusaine; à la Tarentaise, 144

Vegetables, 49

“ dried, 53

“ relished by the Romans, 50, 51

“ how preserved; scarce in England, three centuries ago, 51

Vegetarians, 126

Venafrum, 99

Venison, appreciated by eastern nations, 181

Ventilation of the dining-room, 392

Ventre de truie à l’Athénienne; à la Romaine, 139

Verjuice, its ancient use, 277

Vertumnus, 95

Verus (the Emperor), invented a new dish, 257, 286

“ his couches, 373

Vespucius (Americus) introduced the turkey into Portugal, 165

Vesta, the goddess of bakers, 37

Vestis cœnatoria, convivial dress, 388

Vicar’s wine, 337

Victoria, coronation banquet of H. M. Queen, 408

Victua, the goddess of food, 356

Villar’s Swiss porter, 341

Vine, cultivated in England, 335

Vinegar, its alleged qualities; from Egypt; used to cool the cannons, 278

“ cruet, 264

Vines, protected by the Roman law, 324

Vinum Tethalassomenon, 330

Violatum wine, 331

Vitellius, brought the pistachio tree to Rome, 120

“ regaled on pheasants’ brains, 195

“ served with a dish of 7,000 birds, 208

“ grew tired of sea-eels, 221

“ his culinary expenses, 257, 348

“ was an active polyphagist, 341

“ his nocturnal banquets, 345

Vocatores, servants, 377

Voracity, examples of, 339, 341

Vulture, 194

Walnut tree, a native of Asia, consecrated to Jupiter,

reserved to Persian kings, 118

Walnuts, when served; how eaten; their qualities;

used as an antidote; strewed on the nuptial chamber, 119

Warwick, his prodigality (Earl of), 351

Washers, peniculi, 379

Water, a vivifying principle; venerated by ancient nations, 293

“ conveyed into Rome, 295

“ its curative virtue, 296

“ cure system, practised by the Romans, 297

“ hot, used to drink, 296

“ cresses, a native of Crete; esteemed by the

Persians; despised by Plutarch; their properties, 84

“ an anti-scorbutic; how prepared 85

“ hen, 206

“ mills, 27, 28

Wax figures among the Romans, 377

“ vases, 318

Weaning supper, 357

Wedding-cake of the Romans, 286

“ wine, 337

“ repast of H.R.H. the Duke of Clarence, 351

“ day banquet, 357

“ of Charles VI., 259

Weights of the ancients, 130

Westphalia celebrated for hams, 137

Whales, 215

“ of four acres, 213

Wheat, 19

“ its price in Greece; public distribution in Rome, 21

“ its price in the olden times, 22

“ Indian, 44

Whiting, its light flesh, 230

“ its preparation, 231

Whitten used for tables, 368

Wild boar à la Troyenne, 185, 406

“ of immense size; served by Caranus; raised on farms, 186

“ how served, 187

“ how prepared, 186, 187

“ preceded by trumpeters, 187

Wild marjoram wine, 89

“ thyme, 89

William the Conqueror, his sumptuous banquets, 352

Wind-mills, 29

Wine, of grain; of the Britons, 301

“ obtained from fruits, 305, 322

“ disliked by some nations, 323

“ method of making, 325

“ fining of; how clarified, 327

“ of different kinds; Greek; Italian, 328

“ of a hundred leaves; white; red; two hundred years

old; how to change its colour, 329

“ mixed with sea-water; of Chios; various made wines, 330

“ interdicted to Roman ladies, 331, 332

“ its price in Greece; in Rome, 331

“ the drink of generous souls, 332

“ of Campania, 333

“ dealers in, 336

“ used for presents and fees; of citizenship, 337

“ sweet, 326

“ hot, 393

“ press of the ancients, 325

Wood, an extraordinary eater (Nicholas), 341

Woodcock, how prepared, 207

Wood-hen, 206

Wormwood, esteemed by the Egyptians; its various uses, 93

“ wine; its composition; it prevented giddiness, 98, 334

Wreaths of flowers, 391

Wrestlers fed on pork, 135

“ rewarded with an ox, 142

“ fed with cheese, 173

Xerxes, fighting for figs, 114

Xiphias fish, 225

York banquet, 403

Ypocras, 338

Zea, rice wheat, 20

Zeno, of Citium, of the same nature as the lupins, 47

“ cooked his lentils himself, 57

Zythum, beer, 299

ERRATA.

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scare, _read_ scar. _P._ 216, _l._ 9, et passim, _for_ accipenser,

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_P._ 378, _l._ 15 and 36, _for_ Procillatores, _read_ Procillator.

DESCRIPTION OF PLATE No. XXVI. A, PAGE 365.

No. 1. Terra-Cotta Drinking-Vase, in the shape of a Bird.

No. 2. Drinking-Vase in the shape of a Tea-pot.

No. 3. Drinking-Cup, with Jupiter’s Head.

* * * * *

* * * * *

WORKS BY A. SOYER.

_Lately Published, the Eighth Edition, Handsomely Bound, Price 15s._,

THE

Gastronomic Regenerator:

A

SIMPLIFIED AND ENTIRELY NEW

SYSTEM OF COOKERY,

WITH NEARLY

TWO THOUSAND PRACTICAL RECIPES,

SUITED TO THE INCOME OF ALL CLASSES.

ILLUSTRATED WITH

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AND CORRECT AND MINUTE PLANS HOW KITCHENS OF EVERY SIZE, FROM THE

KITCHEN OF A ROYAL PALACE TO THAT OF THE HUMBLE COTTAGE,

ARE TO BE CONSTRUCTED AND FURNISHED.

BY A. SOYER.

LONDON:

SIMPKIN, MARSHALL, & CO., STATIONERS’ HALL COURT:

AND SOLD BY

JOHN OLLIVIER, PALL-MALL.

1853.

_For Criticisms see the Public Press in 1846._

* * * * *

The Gastronomic Regenerator

TRANSLATION FROM THE FRENCH OF A CULINARY DIALOGUE BETWEEN LORD M.

H. AND A. SOYER.--_From the “Gastronomic Regenerator,” p. 611._

S.--You are perfectly right, my Lord, the title of “Gourmet” belongs

only to him who eats with art, science, and care, and even with great

care.

LORD M.--The “Gourmand” is never entitled to the name of “Gourmet;” the

one eats without tasting, whilst the other tastes in eating.

S.--The proud and haughty man, my Lord, orders his dinner from

necessity; the man of the world--the profound epicure--orders his with

delight.

LORD R.--It is quite certain that too much attention cannot be given to

the proper execution of, and the intelligence displayed in, the order of

a dinner. The dinner--being of each day, each season, each century--is

not only an hereditary fashion, but also the soul of sociability; read

history, and you will perceive that, in all times, amongst all people,

the good which has been done--and sometimes the evil--was always

preceded or followed by a banquet.

S.--Nothing is more true, my Lord. Of all the pleasures which are

bestowed upon us in this world, that of the table is the only one which,

when the reins of the car of life become slack, parts from us with

regret, and often, as a faithful friend, leaves us but at the brink of

the tomb; whilst all other pleasures disappear gradually, like the

fading of a beautiful autumn, and cover our heads with the hoary locks

of winter.

LORD M.--It is positive that the gift of degustation belongs to all ages

of life,--a centenarian whom I knew well retained this pleasure until

his last hour.

S.--Our degustative senses require continual study, and unceasingly

claim a constant change.

LORD M.--The greatest wit lacks eloquence, if he neglect too much the

nature of his repast.

S.--Which proves, my Lord, that our most agreeable sensations depend,

not solely on nature, but on the care we take of ourselves.

LORD M.--Yes, the more sensitive the soul, the greater the power of

degustation. The degustative sensations operate with as great activity

on the palate as the charm of melody acts on the ear; for example, man

in a state of madness feels the want of eating, but the enchanting

pleasure of degustation is as much denied to him as that of reason.

S.--Your argument on this point is extremely just, my Lord; and are you

not of my opinion, that nothing disposes the human heart to amicable

feelings more than a dinner well conceived and artistically prepared?

LORD M.--It is that which has always made me say that a good cook is as

useful as a good tutor.

S.--I have always perceived, my Lord, that the finest palate is the most

difficult to please, but also the most just in praise.

LORD M.--The choice of wines is of great importance in the progress of a

dinner: a fine wine, light and generous, protects the cook and becomes

the benefactor of the guest.

S.--Permit me also to observe, my Lord, that a gastronomic _réunion_,

without the _beau sexe_ is to me a flower-bed without flowers, an ocean

without waves, a fleet without sails.

LORD M.--Certainly, such _réunions_ are the cradles of good manners and

sociability, even as intemperance is the tomb of morality.

* * * * *

Just Published, the Thirtieth Thousand, Price 7s. 6d.,

THE

Modern Housewife, or Menagere,

COMPRISING

Nearly One Thousand Recipes for the Economic and Judicious Preparation

of Every Meal of the Day,

AND THOSE FOR

THE NURSERY AND SICK-ROOM,

WITH MINUTE DIRECTIONS FOR FAMILY MANAGEMENT IN ALL ITS BRANCHES.

BY A. SOYER,

AUTHOR OF “THE GASTRONOMIC REGENERATOR,”

Illustrated with Numerous Engravings.

_For Criticisms, see the Public Press in 1849._

LONDON:

SIMPKIN, MARSHALL, AND CO., STATIONERS’ HALL COURT,

1853.

* * * * *

COPY OF A LETTER RECENTLY RECEIVED BY THE AUTHOR FROM DR. ERASMUS

WILSON, AUTHOR OF “HEALTHY SKIN, A POPULAR TREATISE ON THE SKIN AND

HAIR.”

17, HENRIETTA STREET, CAVENDISH SQUARE,

_July 18th, 1853_.

SIR,

May I beg your acceptance of the accompanying small volume, for the

part illustration of which I am indebted to your admirable

“Housewife.” Your nursery dinner is one of the most valuable pages

I have ever read on the subject of Diet; and it is calculated to

confer an everlasting benefit on society.

I am, Sir,

Your faithful servant,

ERASMUS WILSON.

A. SOYER, ESQ.

* * * * *

Extract from “Healthy Skin, a Popular Treatise on the Skin and Hair.”

By Erasmus Wilson, F.R.S.

There is another branch of dietetics that calls for an observation from

me, I mean the diet of children. Children are growing animals; nutrition

in them is active, and calls for good and plentiful material in the

shape of nourishment. As far as period is concerned, the same law that

applies to adults is equally suited to them, three meals a day, an

interval of four hours between each. I speak of children out of arms,

not of infants. The substance of their meals cannot be too nutritive, or

too much varied.

The Pantropheon; Or, History of Food, Its Preparation, from the Earliest Ages of the World · 第 44 / 45 段