They enter an immense hall, decorated with unheard-of luxury, lighted by

lustres,[XXXV-14] and round which are several ranks of seats, not unlike

the folding-stools and arm-chairs we meet with in the present day in the

most elegant _boudoirs_.[XXXV-15] The guests seat themselves, and anon

Egyptian slaves approach with perfumed snow-water, which flows from

golden vases of the most graceful forms, and cools the hands of senators

and Roman knights,[XXXV-16] whilst other servants disincumber them of

their patrician shoes, the end of which represents a crescent.[XXXV-17]

The feet then received a similar ablution, and fresh slaves, skilful

orthopœdists, accomplish in a twinkling the delicate toilet of these

extremities,[XXXV-18] and imprison them again in elegant and commodious

sandals, fastened by ribands which cross on the top.[XXXV-19]

Here and there a few persons are remarked who still wear their togas,

having doubtless forgotten to substitute the banqueting dress. So soon

as the major-domo perceives them he makes a sign to some youths clothed

in white tunics, who hasten to present to each of these guests a

_synthesis_, or short woollen vestment of different colours,[XXXV-20]

which envelopes the whole body, but leaves the shoulders and breast

uncovered if the wearer desire it.[XXXV-21]

These indispensable preliminaries being terminated, the seats

disappeared, and the guests stood waiting for the freed-man, Seba, who

speedily entered accompanied by the two consuls, for whom places of

honour had been reserved on couches beside their pompous amphitryon. The

latter deigned to address a few words of welcome to his noble company,

and each one stretched himself on his couch of gold and purple. The

fourth couch was given up to the parasites and shadows.[XXXV-22]

Meanwhile, slaves were burning precious perfumes in golden vases

(_acerræ_), and young children were pouring on the hair of the guests

odoriferous essences, which filled the banqueting hall with balmy

fragrance. Rome had borrowed this custom from the east.[XXXV-23]

The golden panelling of the hall shone with dazzling brightness as it

reflected a torrent of light from the crystal candelabra,[XXXV-24] and

the melodious sounds of the hydraulic organ[XXXV-25] announced the

commencement of the banquet.[XXXV-26]

At this signal, servants, richly dressed, place within the circle formed

by the couches lemon-wood tables of inestimable price,[XXXV-27] which

they immediately cover with a rich tissue of gold and silk. That done,

sylph-like hands spread them over with a profusion of the rarest flowers

and rose leaves.[XXXV-28]

Musicians (_symphoniaci_) then occupy a kind of orchestra or platform,

raised at one of the extremities of the hall,[XXXV-29] among whom the

flute and harp players are to be particularly remarked.[XXXV-30] The

former constitute, among the Romans, a special body dubbed with the name

of _College_, and they have the exclusive right to attend banquets and

enliven the pomp of ceremonies.[XXXV-31]

These musicians execute a slow, dulcet melody while the slaves are

placing on the tables the statues of some of the principal

gods,[XXXV-32] together with that of the divine Nero, whom a

pusillanimous flattery ranks already with the immortals. At this moment

they also arrange here and there the salt-cellars,[XXXV-33] while the

more meditative of the guests invoke Jupiter, before they give

themselves up to the pleasures of the feast.[XXXV-34] Hardly is this

short prayer finished when joyous cup-bearers distribute charming little

crystal cups,[XXXV-35] which Æthiopian slaves[XXXV-36] fill to the brim

with a generous, honeyed wine, drawn, in the first instance, from those

large pitchers which the Greeks have named _amphoræ_.

Some drops of the exhilarating liquid are offered to the _Lares_

(household gods), by sprinkling it in their honour on the floor and the

table.[XXXV-37] This pious libation precedes the entrance of the first

course (_antecœna_),[XXXV-38] composed of the lightest and least

succulent kinds of viands, by means of which a generous host stimulates

the appetites of his guests, as a preparative for brilliant

exploits.[XXXV-39]

Lettuces, olives, pomegranates, Damascus plums,[XXXV-40] tastefully

arranged on silver dishes,[XXXV-41] serve to encircle dormice, prepared

with honey and poppy juice,[XXXV-42] forcemeat balls of crab, lobster,

or cray-fish, prepared with pepper, cummin, and benzoin root.[XXXV-43] A

little further, champignon and egg sausages, prepared with

garum,[XXXV-44] are placed by the side of pheasant sausages, a delicious

mixture of the fat of that bird, chopped very small, and mixed with

pepper, gravy, and sweet sun-made wine, to which a small quantity of

hydrogarum is added.[XXXV-45] Tempting as these delicate viands may be,

the practised epicureans seem to have a decided preference for peacocks’

eggs, which they open with spoons. These eggs, a master-piece of the

culinary artist, who presides over Seba’s stoves, are composed of a fine

perfumed paste, and contain, each one, a fat, roasted, ortolan

surrounded with yolk of egg, and seasoned with pepper.[XXXV-46]

We will not go through the list of all the dishes which composed the

_antecœna_. The nomenclature was offered, according to custom, to the

guests of the rich freed-man, but the reader would doubtless think it a

little tiresome. We must, however, inform him, that the true

gastronomists--and there were many at that banquet--did no more than

give note of preparation to their appetite, by plying it with pickled

radishes,[XXXV-47] some few grasshoppers of a particular species, fried

with garum,[XXXV-48] grey peas, and olives fresh from their

brine.[XXXV-49]

DESCRIPTION OF PLATE No. XXX.

No. 1. A Greek Etruscan vase, or amphora, of terra cotta, for wine

and water, commonly placed on the dinner table.--HAMILTON.

No. 2. A Greek terra cotta vase, for a particular wine.--CAYLUS.

No. 3. Etruscan terra cotta vase, to hold wine on the

table.--CAYLUS.

No. 4. A glass amphora, or vase, of large dimensions, for Falernian

wine.

All found at Herculaneum.--SAINT-NON.

[Illustration]

[Illustration: _Pl. 34._]

The first course was removed to the sound of music.[XXXV-50] Now came

chased silver cups, much larger than those of crystal[XXXV-51]--no doubt

because thirst is excited by drinking. Amphoræ of a secular wine were

ranged by the major-domo on the mosaic flooring of the hall, at some

distance from the triclinium, and they proceeded, by the invitation of

the consuls, to the choice of the _symposiarch_ (or master of the

banquet), upon whom devolved the duty of regulating how often any person

was to drink, and of preventing the guests, in the best manner he could,

from yielding too easily to bacchic provocations, which commonly led to

unseemly gaiety and the loss of reason.[XXXV-52]

This sort magiric magistracy was obtained by lot, or the unanimous call

for a personage worthy of such a distinction.[XXXV-53] That memorable

evening every voice named the senator Drusillus, one of the most

determined drinkers of the Roman aristocracy. Drusillus smiled, snapped

his fingers,[XXXV-54] and, by the order of his master, thus intimated, a

slave, who was standing behind him, filled a golden crater[C] with wine,

and presented it to the symposiarch.

Thereupon, the latter, slightly raising his head from the downy cushions

on which it rested, and supporting it from the left elbow,[XXXV-55]

makes a graceful bow to the amphitryon, the consuls, and the rest of the

assembly. Then, with a stentorian voice: “Slaves,” he cried, “bring

wreaths of flowers.[XXXV-56] Fugitive images of the spring and of

pleasure, they shall bind our brows.[XXXV-57] At the same time let

garlands adorn our craters, in which the cherished liquor of the son of

Semele sparkles;[XXXV-58] and let us bestow no thought, during the fleet

joys of the banquet, on the uncertain and fatal hour when Atropos shall

pronounce our doom.”

This speech, slightly impregnated with the epicurean philosophy so much

in fashion during the reign of Nero, had at least the merit of a

praiseworthy conciseness. Nor did it fail to attract applause from the

auditors, whose brows and cups were speedily adorned with wreaths of

roses, which young boys, clothed in white tunics, arranged with

marvellous art.

The slight rustling of the flowers was soon drowned by the shrill noise

of the trumpets which announced the second course. A flattering buzz

welcomed this profusion of viands, which encumbered the tables, and

well-nigh crushed them with their weight. There were the

peacock,[XXXV-59] the duck, whose breast and head are so much

coveted;[XXXV-60] capons’ livers,[XXXV-60] peppered

becaficoes,[XXXV-61] grouse, the turtle-dove, the phenicopter,[XXXV-62]

and an infinite number of rare birds, the costly tribute that Europe,

Asia, and Africa, exchanged against the gold of the prodigal Seba. Other

gold and silver dishes contained these inestimable fishes which Roman

luxury brought so much into fashion; the scarus, or parrot fish,

sturgeons, turbots, mullets, and those numerous inhabitants of every sea

with which the tanks were stocked, to supply the kitchen of the

freed-slave.

Moreover, there were wild boars _à la Troyenne_,[XXXV-63] ranged in the

centre of the table, in silver basins of a prodigious value; stuffed

pigs, quarters of stag and roebuck, loins of beef, kidneys surrounded

with African figs,[XXXV-64] sows’ paps prepared with milk,[XXXV-65]

sows’ flank,[XXXV-66] and some pieces of Gallic bacon,[XXXV-67] which

certain gluttons loved to associate with a piece of succulent venison.

While the carvers were cutting up the meats with incredible address, to

the sound of a light but animated music, Numidian slaves filled the cups

from small leathern bottles with old Greek wine,[XXXV-68] a servant

carried bread round the tables in a silver basket,[XXXV-69] and others

ventilated the apartment,[XXXV-70] or offered the guests warm and iced

water.[XXXV-71]

In every direction trays circulated, covered with divers kinds of

meats,[XXXV-72] which they took care to humect with peppered

garum,[XXXV-73] that strange condiment, which the freed-slave procured

from Spain at a price equal to its weight in gold.

Suddenly the symposiarch commands silence: the musicians obey--the

slaves are motionless.

“Let us drain our cups,” said he, “in honour of Cæsar. Let us celebrate

the tenth anniversary of his glorious reign, and his happy return to the

metropolis of the world. Let us drink, senators and knights, as many

craters as there are letters in the cherished name of the

emperor.”[XXXV-74]

Sense and reason must have succumbed, had the patrician assembly toasted

Caius Lucius Domitius Nero: it would have been constructive treason not

to empty twenty-three cups; but they limited themselves to four, which

represented the last of these names.

Joy unrestrained floated with the fumy wine, furnished from large

DESCRIPTION OF PLATE No. XXXI.

No. 1. Curious silver dish, with Etruscan letters engraved around

the head of Medusa. Petronius speaks of two silver dishes, upon

which were engraved the name of Trimalcion, and the weight of each

dish.--ATHEN.; STUART.

Nos. 2 and 3. Silver dishes.--GORRIE, “_Etruscan Mus_.”

[Illustration: _Pl. 35._]

glass amphoræ, on which were these words: “Falernian wine of a hundred

leaves, made under the consulship of Opimius.”[XXXV-75][D] The consuls

and the Roman nobles almost forgot, in the voluptuousness of the

splendid repast, that the executioner of Britannicus and Burrhus, the

crowned tiger, was doubtless thinking at that very moment of taking some

of the heads then present. A funereal spectacle soon aroused their

dormant fears.

An officer of the palace presented himself at the door of the banqueting

hall. He advanced slowly, followed by two slaves, who laid on the table

an object covered with a winding-sheet. “Pressing occupations,” said the

imperial messenger, “prevent Cæsar from sharing with you the hospitality

of Seba; but he thinks of you, and sends you a testimony of his

remembrance.”

“Long live Cæsar!” cry the consuls, the freed-slave, and some few

trembling voices. The officer retires. The veil which shrouds Nero’s

present from every eye is removed, and all perceive a silver skeleton,

of terrifying truthfulness, and which, by its admirable mechanism,

proclaims artist to be one of those Greeks who have come to Rome to seek

fortune and celebrity.[XXXV-76]

This episode engrossed the thoughts of the greater part of the guests,

and the old senator, Lucius Vafra, could not help saying, with a sigh,

to his neighbour, Virginius Rufus, one of the consuls of the preceding

year: “Fear the Greeks: fear this disastrous present!”[XXXV-77]

But the hot wine which was being served,[XXXV-78] and the healths which

succeeded without interruption, drove the sinistrous presage from their

minds; and, moreover, the present of the emperor was nowise contrary to

the manners of the epoch, and the thought of death would only have

enlivened the repast, if it had been presented by any other than Nero.

At first healths were drunk in the Greek fashion,--that is, beginning by

the most distinguished personages, he who drank bowed and said: “I wish

you every kind of prosperity;” or simply: “I salute you.” In pronouncing

these words, he who drank the health took only a part of the wine

contained in the cup, and sent the remainder to the guest he had just

designated.[XXXV-79]

Many craters were then emptied in honour of the mistress of the house

(_dominæ_); neither were the illustrious dead nor absent friends

forgotten. The formula was nearly the same for all: “To your healths,”

said the symposiarch, “to our own, to that also of the friend whom we

cherish.”[XXXV-80]

Sometimes Drusillus, still fascinated with that dulcet poetry of the

Greeks with which, when young, he had stored his mind, would take up the

harmonious cadences of Horace, and thus personate, as it were, those

divine chanters of Attica who have immortalised themselves by

celebrating love, wine, and pleasure.

One of his extempore strains, while sipping the sparkling liquor from

his cup, was:--

This dream of bliss maintain, prolong these happy hours,

O, all-enchanting wines! perfumed with flowers

Which Cos and Cyprus rear;

Let nothing ever change this soul-felt, rich delight;

For I would say, when parting for the realms of night,

I never knew a tear.

This sensual philosophy found numberless echoes in that vainglorious

Rome, who exhausted her disdain, outrage, and punishments on the (so

called) new fantastic folly that the Nazarenes were endeavouring to

introduce. A few years more, and their doctrine will subjugate the

universe!

Time passed rapidly, and the meats, divided into equal portions, were

served to the guests, who frequently did not touch them, but gave their

share to their servants, or sent it home.[XXXV-81]

So soon as the major-domo perceived that appetite began to flag, he

ordered the whole to be cleared, and the dessert, spread on ivory

tables,[XXXV-82] to be substituted for the more substantial comestibles,

with which the guests were satiated.

Exquisite drinks, artificial wines, delicate and light

aliments,[XXXV-83] still came to titillate the palate and the burthened

stomach--pears, apples, walnuts, dried-figs, grapes;[XXXV-84] a thousand

different kinds of raw, cooked, and preserved fruits; tarts, cakes, and

those incredible delicacies which the Latins designated by the

collective generic term _bellaria_, wooed the epicurean--if we may be

allowed the expression--with their mild, material, dangerous, and

irresistible eloquence.

Some one proposed to replace the half-faded flowers by Egyptian wreaths,

and every brow was soon bound with garlands of roses and myrtle,

interspersed with little birds, which, by their fluttering and

chirping, soon restored the drowsy company to that animation which

seemed to wane.[XXXV-85]

Then began the amusements of the evening.

A troop of strolling players were admired for their agility and

suppleness. Some rolled round a cord like a wheel which turns on its

axle; they hung by the neck, by one foot, and varied these perilous

exercises in a thousand different ways. Others slid down a cord, lying

on the stomach, with their arms and legs extended. Some revolved as they

ran along a descending cord. Some, in a word, performed feats of

strength and address on the horizontal rope which were truly

incomprehensible, and at an elevation from the flooring which would have

rendered a fall fatal.[XXXV-86]

To these acrobats succeeded prestigiators, who appeared to receive a

peculiar degree of attention. One placed under cups a certain number of

shells, dry peas, or little balls, and he caused them to disappear and

re-appear at will.[XXXV-87] The spectators strained their eyes without

being able to comprehend anything. Another of these mountebanks wrote or

read very distinctly while whirling rapidly round.[XXXV-88] Some vomited

flames from the mouth, or walked, head downwards, on their hands, and

beat with their feet the movements of the most agile dancers.[XXXV-89]

Then a woman appeared, holding in her hand twelve bronze hoops, with

several little rings of the same metal, which rolled round them. She

danced gracefully, throwing and successively catching the twelve hoops,

without ever allowing any of the rings to fall.[XXXV-90] After that,

another juggler rushed, with his breast uncovered, into the midst of a

forest of naked swords. Every one thought him to be covered with wounds,

but he re-appeared, with a smile on his countenance, whole and

sound.[XXXV-91]

These feats were followed by an interlude, in which the parts were

amusingly sustained by marionettes. The Greeks knew this childish

pastime,[XXXV-92] and Rome did not disdain it.[XXXV-93] These little

bronze and ivory figures[XXXV-94] played some comic scenes tolerably

well, and obtained the applauses of grave senators, who more than once

forgot their senility as they contemplated the grotesque pantomime.

The only thing now wanting to render Seba’s supper a worthy specimen of

nocturnal Roman feasts was, to produce before the guests one of those

spectacles which outrage morals and humanity. Nero’s freed-man had been

too well tutored to refuse them this diversion. Young Syrians,[XXXV-95]

or bewitching Spanish girls,[XXXV-96] went through lascivious

dances,[XXXV-97] which raised no blush on the brow of rigid

magistrates, who forgot, in the abode of the vile slave, the respect due

to their age and dignity.

After the voluptuous scenes of the lewd Celtiberians, blood was

required: for they seem to have been formed by nature to take a strange

delight in sudden contrasts. Ten couples of gladiators, armed with

swords and bucklers, occupied a space assigned to them, and ten horrible

duels recreated the attentive assembly. For a long time nothing was

heard but the clash of arms; but the thirst for conquest animated those

ferocious combatants, and they rushed with loud cries on one another.

Blood flowed on all sides; the couches were dyed with it, and the white

robes of the guests were soon spotted. Some of the combatants fell, and

the rattles announced approaching death; others preserved, in their last

struggle, a funereal silence, or endeavoured to fix their teeth in the

flesh of their enemies standing erect beside them.[XXXV-98] The

spectators, stupified with wine and good cheer, contemplated this

carnage with cold impassibility; they only roused from their torpor when

one of those men, happening to trip against a table, struck his head on

the ivory, and his antagonist, prompt as lightning, plunged his sword

into the throat of his foe, whence torrents of black, reeking blood

inundated the polished ivory, and flowed in long streams among the

fruits, cups, and flowers.

The deed was applauded; servants washed the tables and the floor with

perfumed water, and these stirring scenes were soon forgotten. A last

cup was drunk to the good genius,[XXXV-99] whose protection they invoked

before returning home.

Meantime a stifling atmosphere pervades every part of the hall, and a

hollow noise, rumbling in the distance, excites at intervals in the

minds of the guests a sort of undefinable apprehension--the ordinary

presage of an unknown but imminent catastrophe. The consuls raise

themselves on their couches and listen; their host endeavours to calm

their fears; but at this moment a slave, panting for breath, rushes

towards Seba, and pronounces a few inarticulate words. “Fire!” cries the

anguished freed-man. “Where is the fire?” inquire all the terrified

guests, who have heard but this one sinistrous word. “Everywhere!”

replies the slave; “it has burst forth simultaneously in every part of

the city!” No one waits to hear more. Consuls, senators, knights,

musicians, and servants, jostle one another; and, abandoning those who

fall, arrive pell-mell at the atrium. The porter still chained, trembles

at his post; the flames already envelop the sumptuous edifice--the

entire street is one vast brazier! Rome burns, and will soon be a heap

of ruins and ashes! Flight is impossible--the flames intercept every

issue! * * * Nero has taken his measures well.

We will not attempt to depict the mute but terrible despair of those

proud patricians, at bay in the midst of an ocean of fire, in which they

are fated ere long to perish. The wreaths of flowers which bind their

brows are already parched by the scorching breath of those roaring

flames, which engulf and consume everything as they sweep along. A thick

smoke begrimes the lustrous robes, whose graceful folds erewhile

displayed the exquisite urbanity of Seba’s guests, and which now exhibit

only a sad emblem of festive joys. The dread of death, and I know not

what strange anguish at this all-important moment, blanch those human

faces, to which the choicest wines of Greece and Italy had just given a

hue of purple. These men feel--instinct tells them--that life is theirs

no longer, and they have not the courage to die!

The opulent freed-man calls to his slaves, and promises them their

liberty if they consent to risk their lives in an attempt to save his.

But the vile herd is already dispersed; the porter alone remains--for no

one has thought to liberate him--and he, in his impotent fury, replies

by insulting clamours to the cowardly supplications of his quondam

master.

This horrible scene soon changed by the very action of that torrent of

fire which was pursuing its devastating course; and the next day, when

Aurora appeared, a heap of ruins was all that remained of the odious

Seba’s magnificent palace.

The two consuls and some of the senators were fortunate enough to escape

the common danger. Less besotted, perhaps, by the wine and good cheer,

and finding in despair that incredible energy which sometimes operates

the same prodigies as courage, they rushed through the flames, and

gained the country, or those obscure portions of the city which the son

of Agrippina had apparently forgotten.

Thus it was that Lucius Domitius Nero celebrated the tenth anniversary

of his glorious reign. While the fire was rolling on with its resistless

flood of flame from temples to palaces, and from the Circus to the

Pantheon, the young, poetic Cæsar, his brow bound with laurel, and

holding in his hands a golden lyre, viewed from the top of a

tower--where he was surrounded by a troop of histrions and buffoons--the

conflagration he had just kindled.

And while the imperial Apollo sang some melancholy verses on the fatal

destiny of the antique city of Troy, his ignoble courtiers cried with

enthusiasm: “May the Gods preserve Nero, their august son, and the

delight of the human race!”

Such was the last gorgeous feast at which the magiric genius presided in

that Rome which Romulus had founded, and which engulfed the treasures

and wonders of the world. Destroyed by the imperial incendiary, it arose

from its ashes with increased beauty and voluptuousness; and the wild

joy of its new banquets caused the thoughtless queen of nations quickly

to forget the disasters of the past, and the sinistrous presages of the

future.

[Illustration: _Pl. 32._

NERO.

HELIOGABALUS.]

BIOGRAPHICAL NOTES.

NERO.

The Pantropheon; Or, History of Food, Its Preparation, from the Earliest Ages of the World · 第 35 / 45 段