[_Tour from Naples to Rome_], _April_ 16.--Having remained several
months at Naples, we resolved to take a tour to Rome during the Holy
Week and view the ecclesiastical shows which take place, although
diminished in splendour by the Pope's poverty. So on the 15th we set out
from Naples, my children unwell. We passed through the Champ de
Mars,[522] and so on by the Terra di Lavoro, a rich and fertile country,
and breakfasted at St. Agatha, a wretched place, but we had a
disagreeable experience. I had purchased a travelling carriage, assured
that it was English-built and all that. However, when we were half a
mile on our journey, a bush started and a wheel came off, but by dint of
contrivances we fought our way back to Agatha, where we had a miserable
lodging and wretched dinner. The people were civil, however, and no
bandits abroad, being kept in awe by the escort of the King of
Westphalia,[523] who was on his road to Naples. The wheel was
effectually repaired, and at seven in the morning we started with some
apprehension of suffering from crossing the very moist marshes called
the Pontine Bogs, which lie between Naples and Rome. This is not the
time when these exhalations are most dangerous, though they seem to be
safe at no time. We remarked the celebrated Capua, which is
distinguished into the new and old. The new Capua is on the banks of the
river Volturno, which conducts its waters into the moats. It is still a
place of some strength in modern war. The approach to the old Capua is
obstructed by an ancient bridge of a singular construction, and consists
of a number of massive towers half ruined. We did not pass very near to
them, but the site seems very strong. We passed Sinuessa or Sessa, an
ancient Greek town, situated not far from shore. The road from Naples to
Capua resembles an orchard on both sides, but, alas! it runs through
these infernal marshes, which there is no shunning, and which the
example of many of my friends proves to be exceeding dangerous. The
road, though it has the appearance of winding among hills, is in fact,
on the left side, limited by the sea-coast running northward. It comes
into its more proper line at a celebrated sea-marsh called Cameria,[524]
concerning which the oracle said "_Ne moveas Camarinam_," and the
transgression of which precept brought on a pestilence. The road here
is a wild pass bounded by a rocky precipice; on one hand covered with
wild shrubs, flowers, and plants, and on the other by the sea. After
this we came to a military position, where Murat used to quarter a body
of troops and cannonade the English gunboats, which were not slow in
returning the compliment. The English then garrisoned Italy and Sicily
under Sir [John Stuart]. We supped at this place, half fitted up as a
barrack, half as an inn. (The place is now called Terracina.) Near this
a round tower is shown, termed the tomb of Cicero, which may be doubted.
I ought, before quitting Terracina, to have mentioned the view of the
town and castle of Gaeta from the Pass. It is a castle of great
strength. I should have mentioned Aversa, remarkable for a house for
insane persons, on the humane plan of not agitating their passions.
After a long pilgrimage on this beastly road we fell asleep in spite of
warnings to the contrary, and before we beat the _reveille_ were within
twenty miles of the city of Rome. I think I felt the effects of the bad
air and damp in a very bad headache.
After a steep climb up a slippery ill-paved road Velletri received us,
and accommodated us in an ancient villa or château, the original
habitation of an old noble. I would have liked much to have taken a look
at it; but I am tired by my ride. I fear my time for such researches is
now gone. Monte Albano, a pleasant place, should also be mentioned,
especially a forest of grand oaks, which leads you pretty directly into
the vicinity of Rome. My son Charles had requested the favour of our
friend Sir William Gell to bespeak a lodging, which, considering his bad
health, was scarcely fair. My daughter had imposed the same favour, but
they had omitted to give precise direction how to correspond with their
friends concerning the execution of their commission. So there we were,
as we had reason to think, possessed of two apartments and not knowing
the [way] to any of them. We entered Rome by a gate[525] renovated by
one of the old Pontiffs, but which, I forget, and so paraded the streets
by moonlight to discover, if possible, some appearance of the learned
Sir William Gell or the pretty Mrs. Ashley. At length we found our old
servant who guided us to the lodgings taken by Sir William Gell, where
all was comfortable, a good fire included, which our fatigue and the
chilliness of the night required. We dispersed as soon as we had taken
some food, wine, and water.