East Cape, a Point of Observation.--The greater Part of our Men
gathered here.--The _Kanaka_.--Weather softening.--Ice
still firm.--Arctic Scenes.--Icequakes.--Migratory Fowl.
--A Whale discovered.--Gala Time among the Natives.--The
Natives thorough Drinkers.--A drunken "Spree."--Cruise into
the Country.--Birds-egging.--Incidents.--Native Manner of
killing Fowl.--Amusements of the Natives.--Vegetation.--
Face of the Country.--Fish.--Fowl.--The Ochotsk Sea and
Country.
We had now reached nearly or quite the end of our journey; at least we
had attained one of the great objects of our desires and exertions. It
was from this place as a point of observation, that most, if not all,
the ships passing into the Arctic Ocean on the breaking up of the ice
could be seen; and hence this place was the most suitable locality,
from which we could be easily taken off.
While the greater part of our company remained at this place, one party
of our number, consisting of six or seven, passed down the coast some
considerable distance, perhaps twenty miles or more; and another party
of four took up their abode at a less distance. Our purpose, and,
indeed, the chief one we had in view, was that, in thus distributing
ourselves along on the coast, we should be more likely to see and
notify any ship or ships that might by chance be early upon the coast,
as to the locality and condition of the Citizen's officers and crew.
At this time, which was the first of April, all of the ship's company
that had survived the horrors of an arctic winter were at East Cape,
and at places just south of it, except one poor _Kanaka_, who, in
consequence of frozen feet, was unable to travel with the rest of us,
and was therefore left behind about one hundred miles among the natives.
The weather was now softening very perceptibly, though there appeared
to be but little diminution of ice and snow. The ocean was not yet
broken up, but presented one immovable body of granite ice.
Those who are familiar with arctic scenes well remember the report
of concussions between huge masses and blocks of ice, the hoarse and
dismal chafings between contending pieces, and their violent agitation
by the action of a heavy swell, or winds, or currents; at such times
it seemed as if the fabled giants or gods of mythology were engaged in
some fierce and terrible encounter.
But now, while the ocean was frozen over with an incrustation like
one of the strata of the earth's surface, we were frequently startled
at the deep and prolonged sounds, or rumblings, falling upon our ears
like peals of thunder, or discharges of cannon from this sea of solid
ice; and then their varied echoes and reverberations would roll away in
the distance, forming a most sublime _finale_ to the music of an arctic
winter.
These icequakes, as we might properly call them, at the north, may be
placed in the same chapter with earthquakes, exhibiting on a scale of
astonishing magnitude and inconceivable energy the throes of nature.
Fogs began to prevail, and so dense that we could discover an object
only a very short distance from us; and besides, so saturating that
they were equivalent to rain.
In the months of October and November, various species of birds and
sea fowl, with the exception of the crow, which is a permanent fixture
in all climates and regions, migrate to the south. In the months of
April, May, and June, they return again in immense numbers, beyond all
calculation. The air seemed to be alive with the feathered tribe.
The last part of April and the first of May, the snow began to waste
away, and objects which had for months been concealed were now made
visible.
It was about this time that an incident occurred which created great
delight in the minds of the natives. The thawing away of the snow had
revealed to their rejoicing eyes a dead whale, which was found three or
four miles distant from the settlement. It was probably driven ashore
the season before, and thus preserved in the snow and ice. It was a
gala time with these simple-hearted and ignorant people. All that could
go--men, women, and children, hastened to the dead whale for the
purpose of cutting blubber. It furnished a fresh stock of provisions
for them; a new bite, far better, we presume, than the old, which had
become not only reduced, but rather stale. Nor did we fail of receiving
our supply from this newly-cut blubber.
It was deeply interesting, as well as amusing, to witness the zeal of
the natives in cutting up the whale, and sledding home the blubber with
their dog teams. This was a valuable prize to them, and the staff of
life.
As we remarked before in the former part of this narrative, at the time
of our visiting the wreck with the natives, they were very inquisitive
to know whether we had any thing to drink which would make them dance
and sing, and such like. From their gestures, words, and actions, we
knew they meant _rum_. In addition to our previous knowledge of their
habits in this particular, our further acquaintance with them, for half
a year or more, confirmed us in the opinion that they loved ardent
spirits, and whenever and wherever they could get it, they would drink
to excess.
We found they were no half-hearted, occasional, genteel drinkers. They
had no idea of making a quantity of spirits continue its enlivening and
kicking effects through several days and weeks; but they wanted, and
they would have, if furnished with the means, one grand "_burst up_,"
one tremendous "_spree_," and that would end it for the present, until
the next supply could be obtained. They went on the principle that many
others tolerate, "they could not have too much of a good thing."
Some spirits had been brought to the settlement, obtained probably by
way of traffic from other tribes in the interior, on the borders of
the Ochotsk Sea. When the "fire water" arrived at the settlement, it
happened to be in the night time; and before much, if any, of it was
drunk, the head man came to Captain Norton, called him up, and wanted
he should "take a little," as a token of his respect for the captain,
as was supposed. By morning, many of the natives who had drank to
excess were laid away as those who belong to the class of quiet ones;
but others were noisy, confident, and brave--full of their gabble--
rich--possessing the whole creation, and a little more.
Under these circumstances they endeavored to display their agility and
strength, and perform wonderful feats; such, for instance, as climbing
the pole in the hut. This the head man attempted to do, who was, as
we should judge, "three quarters over," and after repeated efforts
succeeded in climbing up the pole six or eight feet.
His wife, being actuated by the same impulse, concluded she would
follow her husband, and climb up after him. This she did, and had
got up only a few feet, when her husband's strength, under these
circumstances more quickly developed than lasting, gave out; and
yielding to the simple force of gravity which he could not well
resist, came down upon the head and shoulders of his wife; and by his
accelerated momentum both were brought to the ground in double compound
confusion, to the great merriment of those of us who were looking
on and observing the progress of the scene. It was one of the most
laughable incidents we ever witnessed in our lives.
Again, the natives would display, in the most boisterous manner, their
skill in harpooning or lancing the whale, or walrus, and thus brandish
their weapons with uplifted arms, as if they were about to strike their
prey.
One of this class was so stimulated with alcoholic strength and
courage, that suiting his action to the word or impulse, he threw
his spear with all his might into the broadside of one of the huts,
and it passed within a short distance of the captain's head. He at
once concluded it was time for him to seek a place of safety a little
farther off, out of the reach of such dangerous missiles thrown by
irresponsible hands. He was careful, however, as it was necessary for
our protection, not to exhibit any signs of fear in their presence.
They had a regular, thorough-going drunken time.
Allow us to say, that _excessive_, _moderate_, or _occasional_ drinking
of alcoholic stimulants from love to the "dear creature," makes fools
not only of the poor natives inhabiting the shores of the Arctic,
but also fools, and greater ones too, of those dwelling in the more
civilized, and even Christianized, portions of the earth.
In the month of May Captain Norton took a short cruise into the
interior, about one hundred miles, with the head man and several
others, accompanied by their dog teams. The settlement he visited was
called _Souchou_. The principal food among the natives there was deer
meat. Articles of traffic carried from the coast were whalebone, whale,
walrus, and seal's blubber; in return the natives bring to the coast
deer meat, tobacco, spirits, &c.
In order to while away our time at East Cape before ships would
make their appearance, or the ice break up, we would frequently go
bird's-egging.
The cliffs facing the ocean were high and steep, and various kinds of
birds would make their nests and lay their eggs in the crevices and
holes of the rocks. No one could ascend them unaided from the bottom,
nor would any one dare descend them from the top of the cliff.
We would, therefore, lower down one and another from the top by
means of ropes, or walrus cord, fastened around his body; with this
precaution, he could penetrate into recesses in the cliff, and obtain
as many eggs as were wanted, and then those at the top would draw him
up again. This exercise furnished a source of amusement, emulation,
and personal daring; and the last, though not the least, the eggs thus
obtained gave an agreeable variety to our "bill of fare."
One incident occurred which came near having a sad termination. Mr.
Osborn fell down a steep declivity ten feet or more, and in his descent
he happened to strike a narrow, shelving piece of rock, "just large
enough," he said, "to stand upon," which saved him from instant death.
The distance below him was more than one hundred and fifty feet.
The Orkney Islands are a famous resort for fowls, which build their
nests in the caverns of perpendicular cliffs; and individuals obtain
eggs in those places in the manner before described, by letting down
one and another from the top of the cliff by means of ropes.
A writer remarks, "I have heard of an individual, who, either from
choice or necessity, was accustomed to go alone on these expeditions;
supplying the want of confederates above by firmly planting a stout
iron bar in the earth, from which he lowered himself. One day, having
found a cavern, he imprudently disengaged the rope from his body, and
entered the cave with the end of it in his hand. In the eagerness
of collecting eggs, however, he slipped his hold of the rope, which
immediately swung out several yards beyond his reach. The poor man was
struck with horror; no soul was within hearing, nor was it possible
to make his voice heard in such a position; the edge of the cliff
so projected that he never could be seen from the top, even if any
one were to look for him; death seemed inevitable, and he felt the
hopelessness of his situation. He remained many hours in a state
bordering on stupefaction; at length he resolved to make one effort,
which, if unsuccessful, must be fatal. Having commended himself to
God, he rushed to the margin of the cave, and sprang into the air,
providentially succeeded in grasping the pendulous rope, and was saved."
June had now come, with no very particular incident in the monotony of
hut life, except, perhaps, that of increased earnestness and desire
to behold once more the sail of a friendly vessel, and once more to
tread her decks. As the time approached when we should realize such an
event, hours seemed days, and weeks months. We visited again and again
the high eminence on East Cape, where we had a commanding view of the
ocean, to see if there was any immediate prospect of the ice breaking
up and drifting away.
[Illustration: LOWERING FOR WHALES.]
THE MANNER OF KILLING DUCKS AND OTHER FOWL PRACTICED BY THE NATIVES.
In migrating either to the north or south, ducks and other fowl
usually fly in large flocks, and generally very low. In order to kill
the greatest number, the natives would station themselves at one
end of a valley, near the bottom of it; and, if possible, they would
conceal themselves from the ducks behind little hillocks. Or if at
the termination of a valley there should be a precipitous descent of
several feet, the natives would be sure to take their position in such
a locality. The fowl usually flew along in valleys running north and
south.
Thus stationed, with neither guns, bows, nor arrows, but with a number
of small balls in their hands, connected with each other by strings
from twelve to eighteen inches in length, they await the approach of
their game. When the fowl are sufficiently near for their purpose, the
natives rise up, and throw, with singular force and precision, these
balls at the flock of passing ducks. At first, when these balls leave
their hands, they are all together and compact; but with increasing
distance, they will open and spread themselves to the extent of the
strings by which they are tied together, and, by the time they get into
the midst of the flock, they are fully extended; and then these balls,
meeting with resistance, will twist around the necks, legs, and wings
of the fowl, and bring them to the ground.
The ducks are killed by the natives, not by cutting off their heads,
or breaking their necks, but by pressing the foot upon them until they
cease to breathe.
AMUSEMENTS AMONG THE NATIVES.
Dog races are favorite amusements among the natives. Their chief
emulation appeared to be, who should possess the best dog team. He who
beat in a race of several miles obtained a number of fathoms of walrus
cord.
These dog teams would sometimes contain as many as twenty dogs. At the
time of a race, in which all the settlement was greatly interested,
the head man would make a feast, and the most important article on
the occasion would be seals' heads; and for some purpose, which they
understood better than we did, they would put coals of fire, or brands,
in the mouths of these heads.
There was another kind of amusement in which they at times engaged.
A circle was formed from twenty-five to fifty feet in diameter, and
in this circle any number who chose might enter, and then commenced
the race. He who could run the longest, and thus tire the others out,
obtained the prize, whatever it might be.
The head man of the settlement would sometimes get up a _woman's_ race,
and they would run the distance with the greatest fleetness. She who
won in the race secured beads, needles, combs, &c.
Probably the most exciting of all their amusements was that of jumping.
A large walrus skin was prepared with holes made in the border of it,
as near as possible for the men to stand side by side, taking hold of
the skin, lifting it up a foot and a half from the ground, and drawing
it tight. An individual who wished to try his or her skill in jumping
would get upon this skin. By his exertion, and that of the men who held
up the skin, he would jump to a great height; and as he came down, he
would meet the upward motion of the skin, which would cause a sudden
rebound to the jumper. This process would continue until the individual
who was trying his skill in jumping was brought down upon his knees,
and then there would be a great shout and laughter. Another would then
take his place upon the skin.
This amusement was shared in mutually, both by men and women.
Occasionally we would try our skill in jumping. Those most expert among
the natives, and especially among the women, would for a long time
maintain their standing upon their feet, notwithstanding the efforts of
those who held the skin to get them down upon their knees.
VEGETATION.
Of vegetation in the arctic region we can say but little. In the
valleys, and along shore, there was a variety of coarse grass. The
entire region being destitute of wood, and almost of every species of
shrubbery that could really be called such, the soil consequently was
exceedingly barren of vines, plants, or flowers. There were, however,
a few flowering plants which made their appearance in the transient
summer allotted to them.
The rocks were covered with coarse moss, and wherever the sun melted
away the snow from the hill sides, or plains, or valleys, a small vine
would start into life; this vine afforded, as has before been observed,
the only bread of the natives.
We never learned that the natives north of East Cape ever attempted to
plant any seed, or to raise any kind of vegetables.
THE FACE OF THE COUNTRY.
The shores of the arctic are bold and rocky, and bordered with high,
frowning cliffs. As far as the eye could extend in an inland direction,
snow-capped peaks, and finally lofty mountain ranges, filled the whole
field of vision.
FISH.
Besides the whale, which is the sovereign of those seas, there are
seals, walruses, sharks, narwhal, cod, salmon, &c.
FOWL.
Geese and ducks are abundant, besides a great variety of other
water-fowl.
The country bordering on the Ochotsk Sea, a place visited by hundreds
of whalemen, presents a scenery in some respects quite different from
that of the arctic.
While the surface of the country is uneven, interspersed with hills,
valleys, and mountains, yet it is quite well wooded, especially on the
seaboard.
As far north as 60 deg. we have found patches of potatoes, turnips, barley,
&c. As soon as the snow leaves the earth, numberless wild flowers of
every hue and color, and some of them very odorous, immediately start
into life and beauty, and adorn both the valley and hill side. And what
is most remarkable in the multitude of flowers which follow the line
of retreating frost and snow, we find in nature, as in opposite and
antagonistical views and principles, that extremes meet.
Vegetation here in this region thrives with the greatest possible
rapidity. It seems sometimes to put on the air even of romance, or
fiction. One season we were in the Ochotsk Sea, which was the 15th of
June, and then we found the country covered with snow; but in less
than ten days from that time, the forests were leaved out, and every
thing wore the dress of summer.
On the shores of the sea in different localities, we found growing
in great profusion, berries of various sorts, such as whortleberry,
cranberry, blackberry, mossberry, &c.
We found in the Ochotsk Sea, besides the whale, salmon, trout, cod,
eels, butts, and flounders.
In addition to large sea fowl, which were very numerous, an immense
number of little birds swarmed the air, some of them of beautiful
plumage, and excelling in melodious notes. Many of them were so tame
that they would light upon the ship's rigging and yards, and even
descend to the deck to pick up crumbs, or little particles of food.