Here I was troubled, how I should get through St. _Salvador_, which was

a City of _Spaniards_, and wherein there was a Cloister of Dominicans,

whom I feared most of all, because I was known by some of them. My

resolution was therefore when I came neere unto the City, to turn out

of my way to a _Spaniards_ Farm as if I had lost my way, and there to

delay the time till Evening in drinking Chocolatte, discoursing, and

baiting my mules well, that so I might travell all that night, and

bee out of the reach of that City, and Fryers (who lived in _Indian_

Towns about it) the next morning, early. This City of St. _Salvador_ is

poore, not much bigger then _Chiapa_, and is governed by a _Spanish_

Governour. It standeth forty leagues at least from _Guatemala_, and

towards the North Sea side, is compassed with very high mountains,

which are called Chuntales, where the _Indians_ are very poore. In the

bottome where the City standeth there are some _Trabiches_ of Sugar,

some Indigo made, but the chief Farmes are Estancia's of Cattell.

Towards Evening I departed from that Farm where I had well refreshed my

selfe and my Mule, and about eight of the clock I rid through the City

not being known by any body. My purpose was to bee the next morning

at a great River, called _Rio de Lempa_, some ten leagues from St.

_Salvador_, for within two leagues of it there lived in an _Indian_

Town a Fryer belonging to the Cloister of St. _Salvador_ who knew

mee very well. But such haste I made that before break of the day I

passed through that Town, and before seven of the clock I was at the

River, where I found my _Indian_ of _Mixco_ ready to passe over with

my carriage, who that morning by three of the clock had set out of

that Town two leagues off. I was not a little glad to have overtaken

my Chests, wherein was most of my treasure. There I sate down a while

by the River whilst my mules grazed, and my _Indian_ struck fire and

made me Chocolatte. This River of _Lempa_ is held the broadest, and

biggest in all the Jurisdiction belonging unto _Guatemala_; there are

constantly two Ferry Boats to passe over the Travellers, and their

Requa's of Mules. This River is privileged in this manner, that if a

man commit any hainous crime or murther on this side of _Guatemala_,

and _San Salvador_, or on the other side of St. _Miguel_, or

_Nicaragua_, if hee can flie to get over this River, he is free as long

as hee liveth on the other side, and no Justice on that side whither

hee is escaped can question or trouble him for the murther committed.

So likewise for Debts hee cannot bee arrested. Though I thanked God I

neither fled for the one, or for the other, yet it was my comfort that

I was now going over to a priviledged Country, where I hoped I should

bee free and sure, and that if any one did come after mee, hee would

goe no further then to the River of _Lempa_. My Blackmore did much

laugh at this my conceipt, and warranted mee that all would doe well.

Wee Ferried safely over the River; and from thence went in company with

my _Indian_ to a little small Towne of _Indians_ two leagues off, where

wee made the best dinner that we had done from the Towne of _Petapa_,

and willingly gave rest to all our mules till foure of the clocke in

the afternoone; at which time wee set forth to another small Town

little above two leagues off, through a plain, sandy, and Champaigne

Country. The next day wee had but ten leagues to travaile to a Town

called St. _Miguel_, which belongeth unto _Spaniards_, and though it

bee not a City, yet is as bigge almost as _San Salvador_, and hath a

_Spanish_ Governour; in it there is one Cloister of Nuns, and another

of Mercenarian Fryers, who welcomed mee unto their Cloister. For here

I began to shew my face, and to think of selling away the Mule I rid

on, being resolved from hence to goe by water or an Arm of the Sea, to

a Town in _Nicaragua_ called _La Vieja_. I would here have dismissed

my _Indian_, but hee was loth to leave me untill I got to _Granada_,

where hee desired to see mee shipped. I refused not his kind offer,

because I knew hee was trusty and had brought my Chests well thither,

and knew well the way to _Granada_. So I sent him by land to _Realejo_,

or to _La Vieja_, which stand very neere together and thirty leagues by

land from St. _Miguel_, and my self stayed that day and till the next

day at noon in that Town, where I sold the mule, I rid on, because I

knew that from _Realejo_ to _Granada_ I could have of the _Indians_ a

Mule for nothing for a dayes journey. My Blackmores mule I sent also

by land with the _Indian_, and the next day went to the Gulfe, being

three or foure miles from St. _Miguel_, where that afternoone I tooke

Boat with many other passengers, and the next morning by eight in the

morning was at _La Vieja_, which journey by land would have taken mee

up neere three dayes. The next day my _Indian_ came at night, and

wee went to _Realejo_, (as I have observed before) a Haven very weak

and unfortified on the South Sea; where if I would have stayed one

fortnight I might have taken shipping for _Panama_, to goe from thence

to _Portabelo_, and there stay for the Galeons from _Spain_. But I

considered that the Galeons would not be there till _June_ or _July_,

and that so I should be at great charges in staying so long. But

afterwards I wished I had accepted of that occasion, for I was at last

forced to goe to _Panama_, and _Portabelo_. From hence to _Granada_

I observed nothing, but the plainnesse and pleasantnesse of the way,

which with the fruits and fertility of all things may well make

_Nicaragua_ the Paradise of _America_. Betweene _Realejo_ and _Granada_

standeth the City of _Leon_, neere unto a _Vulcan_ of fire, which

formerly burst out at the top, and did much hurt unto all the Country

about; but since that it hath ceased, and now letteth the Inhabitants

live without feare. Sometimes it smokes a little, which sheweth that as

yet there is within some sulphurous substance.

Here it was that a Mercenarian Fryer thought to have discovered some

great treasure, which might inrich himselfe and all that Country,

being fully perswaded that the metall that burned within that _Vulcan_

was Gold; whereupon hee caused a great Kettle to bee made, and hung at

an iron chain to let it down from the top, thinking therewith to take

up gold enough to make him Bishop and to inrich his poor kindred. But

such was the power and strength of the fire within, that no sooner had

hee let downe the Kettle, when it fell from the chain and from his

hands being melted away.

This City of _Leon_ is very curiously built, for the chief delight of

the Inhabitants consisteth in their houses, and in the pleasure of the

Country adjoyning, and in the abundance of all things for the life

of man, more then in any extraordinary riches, which there are not

so much injoyed, as in other parts of _America_. They are contented

with fine gardens, with variety of singing birds, and parrets, with

plenty of fish and flesh, which is cheap, and with gay houses, and so

lead a delicious, lazy and idle life; not aspiring much to trade and

traffique, though they have neer unto them the Lake, which commonly

every yeere sendeth forth some Frigats to _Havana_ by the North

Sea, and _Realejo_ on the South Sea, which to them might bee very

commodious for any dealing and rich Trading in _Peru_, or to _Mixco_,

if their spirits would carry them so farre: The Gentlemen of this City

are almost as vaine and phantasticall as are those of _Chiapa_. And

especially from the pleasure of this City, is all that Province of

_Nicaragua_, called by the _Spaniards Mahomets_ Paradise. From hence

the way is plain and Levell to _Granada_, whither I got safely and

joyfully, hoping that now I had no more journey to make by land, till

I should land at _Dover_ in _England_, and from thence post up to

_London_. Two dayes after I had arrived at this place and rested my

selfe, and injoyed the pleasant prospect of the Lake, I began to think

of dismissing my _Indian_ and Blackmore. But true and faithfull _Miguel

Dalva_ would by no meanes leave mee, till he saw me shipped; and that I

had no more need of him by land; Likewise the _Indian_ would willingly

have stayed, but by no meanes I would permit him, for that I considered

hee had a wife and children to looke to at home. Hee was as willing to

return a foot, as to ride, because hee would have mee sell my mules,

and make what mony I could of them; but I seeing the good nature of

the _Indian_, would recompence his love with as much mony as might bee

more beneficiall to him, then a tired Mule; which might have dyed in

the way under him, and left him on foot; so I gave him money enough to

bear his charges home, and to hire Mules at his one pleasure, and some

to spare, when he came home. The _Indian_ with many teares falling from

his eyes, saying, hee feared hee should never more see mee, tooke his

leave of mee the third day after wee arrived at _Granada_. My Blackmore

and I being left alone, first began to thinke of selling away the two

Mules, which had brought thither the _Indian_, and my Chests; for

which I got fourscore and ten peeces of eight after so long a journey,

and thought they were well sold. I would have had _Miguel_ have sold

away that whereon hee rid, (which was his own) and offered to buy him

another that might better carry him back, but the loving and carefull

Blackmore would not suffer mee to bee at such charges, considering the

long journey which I was to make. After this, wee hearing that the

frigats were not like to depart in a fortnight, thought of viewing

well that stately and pleasant Towne a day or two, and then to betake

our selves to some neer _Indian_ Town, where wee might bee hid, (lest

by the great resort of Requa's of Mules, which at that time brought

Indigo and Cochinill from _Guatemala_ to the Frigats, wee should bee

discovered) and might now and then come to the Town to treat concerning

my passing in one of the Frigats to the _Havana_ or to _Carthagena_.

What in that Town wee observed was, two Cloisters of Mercenarian

and Franciscan Fryers, and one of Nuns, very rich; and one Parish

Church, which was as a Cathedrall, for the Bishop of _Leon_ did more

constantly reside there then in the City. The houses are fairer then

those of _Leon_, and the Town of more Inhabitants, among whom there

are some few Merchants of very great wealth, and many of inferiour

degree very well to passe, who trade with _Carthagena, Guatemala, San

Salvador_, and _Comayagua_, and some by the South sea to _Peru_ and

_Panama_. But at this time of the sending away the frigats, that Town

is one of the wealthiest in all the North Tract of _America_; for the

Merchants of _Guatemala_ fearing to send all their goods by the Gulfe

of _Honduras_, for that they have been often taken by the _Hollanders_

between that and _Havana_, think it safer to send them by the frigats

to _Carthagena_, which passage hath not been so much stopped by the

_Hollanders_ as the other. So likewise many times the Kings treasure,

and revenues (when there is any report of ships at sea, or about the

Cape of _St. Anthony_) are this way by the Lake of _Granada_ passed to

_Carthagena_. That yeer that I was there, before I betooke my selfe

to an _Indian_ Towne, in one day there entred six Requa's (which were

at least three hundred Mules) from _St. Salvador_ and _Comayagua_

onely, laden with nothing else but Indigo, Cochinil and Hides; and two

dayes after from _Guatemala_ came in three more, the one laden with

silver, which was the Kings tribute from that Countrey; the other with

Sugar, and the other with Indigo. The former Requa's I feared not; but

the latter made me keep close within my lodging, lest going abroad,

I should be knowne by some of those that came from _Guatemala_; who

after they had delivered what they brought, presently departed, and

with their departure set mee at liberty, who for their sakes was a

voluntary prisoner within mine owne lodging. But fearing lest more of

these Requa's might come and affright mee, I went to a Towne out of

the rode, a league from _Granada_, and took my pleasure up and downe

the Countrey where I was much feasted by the Mercenarian Friers, who

enjoy most of those Towns. Amongst these I heard much of the passage

in the frigots to _Carthagena_, which did not a little dishearten and

discourage me. For although, whilst they saile upon the Lake, they goe

securely and without trouble, yet when they fall from the Lake to the

river (which there they call _El Desaguadero_) to goe out to the Sea,

_hic labor, hoc opus est_, here is nothing but trouble, which sometimes

makes that short voyage to last two moneths; for such is the fall of

the waters in many places amongst the rockes, that many times they

are forced to unlade the frigots, and lade them again with helpe of

Mules which are there kept for that purpose, by a few _Indians_ that

live about the river, and have care of the Lodges made for to lay in

the wares, whilest the frigots passe thorow those dangerous places to

another Lodge, whither the wares are brought by Mules, and put againe

into the frigots. Beside this trouble (which must needs be tedious to

a passenger, to be thus stopped, who would willingly come soone to

his journeys end) the abundance of gnats is such, which maketh him to

take no joy in his voiage, and the heat in some places so intolerable,

that many doe die before they get out to the sea. Though all this was

terrible to me to hear, yet I comforted my selfe that my life was in

the hands of the Lord, and that the frigots did commonly every yeer

passe that way, and seldome any were lost. I went now and then to

_Granada_ to bargaine for my passage, and to know when the frigots

would for certaine set out, and to provide my selfe of some dainties

and Chocolatte for my journey, having agreed with a Master of a frigot

for my diet at his table. The time was appointed within foure or

five dayes; but suddainly all was crossed with a strict command from

_Guatemala_, that the frigots should not goe out that yeer, because the

President and whole Court was informed for certaine that some _English_

or _Holland_ ships was abroad at sea, and lay about the mouth of the

river or _Desaguadero_ waiting for the frigots of _Granada_, and that

the said were sometimes lurking about the Islands of _St. John_, and

_St. Catharine_ (which then was our _Providence_) which made all the

Merchants of the Countrey to feare and sweat with a cold sweat, and the

President to be carefull for the Kings revenues, lest the losse of them

should be imputed to his wilfull negligence, in stopping the frigots,

whilst he might, and had warning given. This was but sad newes unto

me, who knew not for the present, which way to dispose of my selfe.

I began to thinke of the ship that was at _Realejo_ ready to set out

to _Panama_, thinking that would now be my best course, but enquiring

after it, I was for certaine informed by some Merchants that it was

newly gone. Then my eyes looked upon _Comayagua_ and _Truxillo_, and

upon the ships of _Honduras_, but these were but vaine and troubled

thoughts, arising from a perplexed heart, for the ships were also gone

from thence, without some small vessell or frigot might be there with

newes from _Havana_ or _Carthagena_ (for those places send often word

and notice of what ships are abroad at sea) but this also was a meer

chance, and not to be trusted unto, as my friends did advise, and

counsell me. Whereupon my perplexity more and more increased; onely

my comfort was that there were more passengers besides my selfe, who

I knew must take some course, and whom I also resolved to follow by

sea, or land. Amongst us all we were once resolving to hire a frigot

to carry us onely to _Carthagena_, but this would not bee granted, for

no body would hazard his vessel and life for our sakes. Whilest we

were thus distressed and perplexed enquiring about _Granada_ of the

Merchants what course we might take to get to _Spaine_ that yeer, or

to meet with the _Havana_ or _Carthagena_, one that wished us well,

counselled us to goe to _Costarica_, where at _Carthago_ we should be

sure to hear of some vessels bound for _Portobel_, either from the

river called _de los Anzuelos_, or from the river called _Suere_,

from whence every yeer went out some small frigots to carry Meale,

Bacon, Fowles, and other provision for the Galeons to _Portobel_.

This we thought was a hard and difficult journey, and of neer a

hundred and fifty leagues, over mountaines and through desarts, where

we should misse the pleasure, variety, and dainties of _Guatemala_

and _Nicaragua_, and after all this peradventure might misse of an

opportunity of any frigot bound to _Portobelo_. Yet so unwilling were

we all to returne to _Guatemala_ from whence we came, that we would

rather go forward, and undergoe any difficulties, so that at last we

might find any shipping to convey us where we might meet with the

Galeons, which we knew were not to come to _Portobel_, till the month

of _June_ or _July_. We therefore agreed foure of us, three _Spaniards_

and my selfe, to goe to _Costarica_, and there to trie our fortune.

They had each of them (as my selfe had) carriage for one Mule, and none

to ride on; but thought it their best way to buy each of them a Mule

to carry them, which they hoped after their journey to sell againe at

_Costarica_, and to get mony by them, and for their carriages to hire

Mules and _Indians_ from Towne to Towne, who also might serve to guide

us through many dangerous places and passages, which we understood were

in the way. Now I wished I had my Mule which I sold at _San Miguel_, or

any one of the two which I sold before in _Granada_. But for my mony I

doubted not, with the helpe of my _Black-more_, but I should find one

for my purpose. I furnished my selfe very speedily, for fifty peeces of

eight, of one which I feared not would performe my journey. My good and

trusty _Black-more_ would willingly have gone on with me, and further

round the world if I would have permitted him; but I would not; but

(thanked him heartily for what he had done, and gave him money enough

in his purse, and dismissed him) hoping that the company of the three

_Spaniards_ would be sufficient comfort unto me.

Thus with one _Indian_ to guide us we set four of us out of _Granada_,

enjoying for the two first daies more of the pleasure of that

_Mahomets_ paradise _Nicaragua_, finding the way for the most part

plain, the Townes pleasant, the Countrey shady, and every where fruits

abounding. The second day after we set out, we were much affrighted

with a huge and monstrous Caiman or Crocodile, which having come out

of the Lake (which we passed by) and lying crosse a puddle of water

bathing himselfe, and waiting for some prey, as we perceived after,

whom we not knowing well at the first, but thinking that it had been

some tree that was felled or fallen, passed close by it; when on a

suddain we knew the scales of the Cayman, and saw the monster stir and

move, and set himself against us; wherewith we made hast from him;

but he thinking to have made some of us his greedy prey, ran after

us, which when we perceived, and that he was like to overtake us, we

were much troubled, untill one of the _Spaniards_ (who knew better

the nature & quality of that Beast then the rest) called upon us to

turn on one side out of the way, and to ride on straight for a while,

and then to turn on another side; and so to circumflex our way, which

advice of his without doubt saved mine, or some of the others lives,

for thus we wearied that mighty monster and escaped from him, who (had

we rid out straightway) had certainly overtaken us, and killed some

mule or man, for his straight forward flight was as swift as our Mules

could run; but whilst he turned and wheeled about his heavy body, we

got ground and advantage till we left him far behind us; and by this

experience we came to know the nature and quality of that beast, whose

greatnesse of body is no hinderance to run forward as swift as a Mule;

but otherwise, as the Elephant once laid down is troubled to get up, so

this monster is heavy and stiffe, and therefore much troubled to turne

and wind about his body. We praised God who had that day delivered us,

and riding for a while by the side of the lake, we were watchful that

we might not fall again into the like danger. But the greatnesse of

this lake of _Granada_ may from hence be knowne, in that the second

and third day of our journey, being at least threescore miles from

whence we set out, we now and then found our way lying by it. After

that wee had wholly lost the sight of it, we began to enter into rough

and craggy wayes, declining more to the South then to the North sea.

And in all the rest of our journey to _Carthago_, we observed nothing

worth committing to posterity, but onely mighty woods and trees on the

South sea side, very fit for to make strong ships, and many mountaines

and desert places, where we lay sometimes two nights together, either

in woods or open fields, far from any Town or habitation of _Indians_,

yet for our comfort in these so desert places we had stil a guide with

us, and found lodges, which by the command of the neerest Justices had

been set up for such as travelled that way. We came at last through

thousand dangers to the city of _Carthago_, which we found not to

be so poor as in richer places, as _Guatemala_ and _Nicaragua_ it

was reported to be. For there we had occasion to inquire after some

Merchants for exchange of gold and silver, and wee found that some were

very rich, who traded by Land and Sea with _Panama_, and by Sea with

_Portobelo, Carthagena_, and _Havana_, and from thence with _Spain_.

This City may consist of foure hundred Families, and is governed by

a _Spanish_ Governour; It is a Bishops Sea, and hath in it three

Cloisters, two of Fryers, and one of Nuns. Here we began to enquire

after that which had brought us through so many Mountaines, Woods and

deserts, to wit, after some speedy occasion of shipping our selves

for _Portobelo_ or _Carthagena_; and according to our desires wee

understood of one Frigat almost ready to set out from the River called

_De los Anzuelos_, and another from the River _Suere_; and being well

informed that _Suere_ would bee the best place for us to Travaile unto

by reason of more provision in the way, more Towns of _Indians_, and

Estancia's of _Spaniards_, we resolved within foure dayes after wee

had rested in _Carthago_, to undertake a new journey towards the North

Sea. Wee found that Country mountainous in many places, yet here and

there some Valleys where was very good corn, _Spaniards_ living in good

Farmes, who as well as the _Indians_ bred many hogs; but the Townes of

_Indians_ we found much unlike to those which wee had left behind in

_Nicaragua_ and _Guatemala_; and the people in curtesie and civility

much differing from them, and of a rude and bold carriage and behaviour

towards us; yet they are kept under by the _Spaniards_, as much as

those whom I have formerly spoken of about _Guatemala_. Wee came in so

good a time to the River _Suere_, that wee stayed there but three dayes

in a _Spanish_ Farm neere unto it, and departed.

The Master of the Frigat was exceeding glad of our company, and offered

to carry mee for nothing, but for my prayers to God for him, and for a

safe passage; which hee hoped would not bee above three or four daies

sailing. What hee carried was nothing but some Hony, Hides, Bacon, meal

and fowles. The greatest danger he told us of, was the setting out from

the River, (which runs in some places with a very strong stream, is

shallow and full of rocks in other places) till wee come forth to the

maine Sea. Whither we got out safely and had not sailed on above twenty

leagues, when we discovered two ships making towards us; our hearts

began to quake, and the Master himselfe of the Frigat wee perceived

was not without feare, who suspected that they were _English_, or

_Holland_ Ships; wee had no guns nor weapons to fight with, save onely

foure or five Muskets and half a dozen Swords; wee thought the wings

of our nimble Frigat might be our best comfort, and flying away our

chiefest safety. But this comfort soon began to fail us, and our best

safety was turned into neer approaching danger; for before wee could

flie on five leagues towards _Portobel_, wee could from our Top Mast

easily perceive the two Ships to be _Hollanders_, and too nimble for

our little Vessell, which presently one of them (which being a Man of

Warre, was too much and too strong for our weaknesse) fetcht up, and

with a thundring Message made us strike Saile. Without any fighting wee

durst not but yeeld, hoping for better mercy. But O what sad thoughts

did here run to and fro my dejected heart, which was struck down lower

then our Saile? How did I sometimes look upon Deaths frighting visage?

But if again I would comfort and incourage my selfe against this feare

of Death; how then did I begin to see an end of all my hopes of ever

more returning to my wished and desired Country? How did I see that my

treasure of Pearles, pretious Stones, and peeces of Eight, and golden

Pistols, which by singing I had got in twelve yeers space, now within

one halfe houre ready to be lost with weeping, and become a sure prey

to those who with as much ease as I got them, and with laughing were

ready to spoile mee of all that with the sound of Flutes, Waits and

Organs I had so long been hording up? Now I saw I must forcedly and

fainedly offer up to a _Hollander_ what superstitious, yea also forced

and fained offerings of _Indians_ to their Saints of _Mixco, Pinola,

Amatitlan_ and _Petapa_ had for a while enriched mee. My further

thoughts were soone interrupted by the _Hollanders_ who came abord our

Frigat with more speed then wee desired. Though their Swords, Muskets

and Pistols did not a little terrifie, yet wee were somewhat comforted,

when wee understood who was their chief Captaine and Commander, and

hoped for more mercy from him, who had been born and brought up amongst

_Spaniards_, then from the _Hollanders_, who as they were little

bound unto the _Spanish_ Nation for mercy, so did wee expect little

from them. The Captain of this _Holland_ Ship which took us was a

Mulatto, born and bred in _Havana_, whose Mother I saw and spoke with

afterwards that same yeer, when the Galeons struck into that Port to

expect there the rest that were to come from _Vera Cruz_. This Mulatto

for some wrongs which had been offered unto him from some commanding

_Spaniards_ in the _Havana_, ventured himself desperately in a boat

out to the Sea, where were some _Holland_ Ships waiting for a prize,

and with Gods helpe getting unto them, yeelded himself to their mercy,

which hee esteemed farre better then that of his own Country-men,

promising to serve them faithfully against his owne Nation, which had

most injuriously and wrongfully abused, yea and (as I was afterwards

informed) whipped him in the _Havana_.

This Mulatto proved so true and faithful in his good services unto

the _Hollanders_, that they esteemed much of him, marryed him to one

of their Nation, and made him Captain of a Ship under that brave and

gallant _Hollander_ whom the _Spaniards_ then so much feared, and

named, _Pie de Palo_, or Woodden Leg. This famous Mulatto it was that

with his Sea Souldiers borded our Frigat, in the which hee had found

little worth his labour, had it not been for the _Indians_ offerings

which I carryed with mee, of which I lost that day the worth of four

thousand Patacons or peeces of eight in pearles, and pretious stones,

and neer three thousand more in money. The other _Spaniards_ lost

some hundreds a peece, which was so rich a prize, that it made the

_Hollanders_ stomach loath the rest of our grosse provision of Bacon,

Meale and Fowles, and our money tasted sweeter unto them, then the Hony

which our Frigat also afforded them. Other things I had (as a Quilt

to lie on, some Bookes, and Lamina's, which are pictures in brasse,

and clothes) which I begged of that Noble Captaine the Mulatto, who

considering my Orders and calling, gave mee them freely, and wished

me to bee patient, saying that hee could doe no otherwise then he did

with my mony and Pearles, and using that common Proverbe at Sea, _Oy

por mi, manana por ti_, to day fortune hath been for mee, to morrow

it may bee for thee: or to day I have got what to morrow I may lose

again. Here I made use also of that common saying, that il gotten goods

never thrive, and perceived it was the will of my heavenly Father to

take from me what so unlawfully by superstitious and idolatrous Masses,

by Offerings unto Idols and Statues of Saints I had got amongst the

_Indians_. I offered in lieu of those former offerings my will unto my

Lord Gods will, desiring him to grant mee patience to bear that great

losse. I confesse, though it was very crosse to flesh and blood, yet

I found an inward spirituall strengthning from above, and to be very

true what _Paul_ writes to the _Hebrews_ in the 12 Chapter, and Verse

11. saying, _No chastening for the present seemeth to bee joyous, but

grievous; neverthelesse afterward it yeeldeth the peaceable fruit of

righteousnesse unto them which are exercised thereby_: for that very

day I found my inward man quiet and peaceable with a full and totall

submission unto the holy will of God, which I desired might bee done

in earth, in the Sea, and performed and obeyed by me at that present,

as it is alwayes done in heaven. And although this was my best and

chief comfort, yet from the creature by the Creators permission I had

also some comfort left in a few pistols, some single, some double,

which I had sowed up in my Quilt (which the Captain restored unto

mee, saying it was the bed I lay in) and in the doublet which I had

at that present, which mounted to almost a thousand Crownes, and in

their searching was not found out. After the Captain and Souldiers had

well viewed their prize, they thought of refreshing their stomacks

with some of our provision; the good Captaine made a stately dinner

in our Frigat, and invited mee unto it, and knowing that I was going

towards the _Havana_, besides many other brindi's or healths, hee

drank one unto his mother, desiring mee to see her, and to remember

him unto her, and how that for her sake hee had used mee well and

courteously in what hee could; and further at Table hee said that for

my sake hee would give us our Frigat that wee might return again to

land, and that I might find out from thence some safer way and means

to get to _Portobelo_, & to continue on my journey unto _Spain_. After

dinner I conferred with the Captain alone, and told him that I was no

_Spaniard_, but an _English_ man born, shewing him the Licence which

I had from _Rome_ to goe to _England_, and that therefore I hoped,

not being of an enemy nation to the _Hollanders_, he would restore

unto me what goods were mine. But all this was of little consequence

with him, who had already taken possession of mine, and all other

goods in the ship: he told me, I must suffer with those, amongst whom

I was found, and that I might as wel claime all the goods in the ship

for mine. I desired him then to carry me along with him to _Holland_,

that from thence I might get to _England_, which also he refused to

doe, telling me that he went about from one place to another, and

knew not when he should goe to _Holland_, and that he was daily ready

to fight with any _Spanish_ ship, and if he should fight with the

_Spaniards_ whilst I was in his ship, his souldiers in their hot blood

might be ready to doe me a mischiefe, thinking I would doe them harm,

if in fight they should be taken by the _Spaniards_. With these his

answers I saw there was no hope of getting againe what now was lost,

therefore (as before) I commended my selfe againe to Gods providence

and protection. The Souldiers and Mariners of the _Holland_ ship, made

hast that afternoone, to unlode the goods of our Frigat into their Man

of warre, which tooke them up that, and part of the next day, whilst we

as prisoners were wafting up and down the sea with them. And whereas

we thought our mony had satisfied them enough, and to the full, we

found the next day that they had also a stomack to our fowles and

Bacon, and wanted our Meale to make them bread, and our hony to sweeten

their mouthes, and our Hydes for shooes and bootes; all which they

tooke away, leaving me my Quilt, Bookes, and brasse pictures, and to

the Master of the frigat some small provision, as much as might carry

us to land, which was not far off, and thus they tooke their leaves

of us, thanking us for their good entertainment. And we weary of such

guests, some praying to God that they might never entertaine the like

againe, some cursing them all, and especially the Mulatto to hell,

calling him Renegado; some thanking God for their lives which were

given them for a prey, we all returned again to _Suere_ from whence

we had set out, and going up the river, were almost like to bee cast

away, and lose our lives, after we had lost our goods. When we came to

land, the _Spaniards_ about the Countrey pitied our case, and helped

us with almes gathering a Collection for us. The three _Spaniards_ of

my company lost all their mony and most of their best clothes, yet

they had reserved some bills of Exchange for money to be taken up at

_Portobelo_; which I wished I had also for what I had lost. For the

present we knew not what course to take; we thought of going to _Rio de

los Anzuelos_, but we were informed that certainly the frigats there

were either gone, or would be gone before we could get thither; and

if they stayed not with the newes of the _Hollanders_ ships at sea,

they either already were or would be their prize, as we had been. We

resolved therefore with the charitable assistance of the _Spaniards_

about the Countrey to returne again to _Carthago_, and from thence to

take some better directions. In the way we conferred what we had saved,

the _Spaniards_ bragged yet of their bills of Exchange, which would

yeeld them mony at _Carthago_, I would not let them know what I had

saved, but somewhat I told them I had kept; and we agreed all the way

we went to signifie nothing but poverty and misery, that the _Indians_

and _Spaniards_ in the way might pitty and commiserate us, and our

great losses. When we came to _Carthago_ we were indeed much pittied,

and Collections were made for us; and as it was expected from mee, that

I should sing againe at the Altars (who truely could rather have cried

to see and consider my many misfortunes and disasters, which I desired

might at last by a safe returne to _England_, prove the trials of the

faith I intended to search out) and that I should preach wheresoever I

came; so by these two waies, of singing and of hudling over _Dominus

vobiscum_ and the rest of the Masse, and by accepting of what Sermons

were recommended unto me, I began againe to store my selfe with monies.

Yet I knew that in such a poore Countrey as that was, where I was

little knowne, I could not possibly get enough to bring me home with

credit into _England_, and therefore the cunning enemy finding me to

stand upon my credit, began strongly to tempt me to returne againe

to _Guatemala_ (where I doubted not but I should be welcomed and

entertained by my friends) and to settle my selfe there, untill I had

againe by sacrilegious, base, superstitious, and idolatrous means, and

works, made up a new purse to returne with credit home.

But I perceiving that God already had shewed himselfe angry, and justly

taken from me, what by unlawfull meanes I had in twelve yeers obtained,

bad Satan avaunt, purposing never more to returne to the flesh pots

of _Egypt_, and to goe still home-wards, though in the way I did beg

my bread. Yet (lest I might be suspected amongst the _Spaniards_, and

troubled for not exercising my orders and function) I resolved to take

what as to a stranger and traveller for preaching or any other exercise

might be offered unto me.

Thus with courage resolving to goe on still towards _England_, I

enquired at _Carthago_ which way I might get to _Portobelo_. But this

doore of hope was fast shut up; though my trust in Gods providence

was not weakened. In this season, there came to _Carthago_ some two

or three hundred Mules unsadled or unloaden with some _Spaniards,

Indians_, and _Black-mores_, from the parts of _Comayagua_ and

_Guatemala_ to convey them to _Panama_ by land, over the mountaines

of _Veragua_ there to be sold. This is the yeerly and onely trading

by land, which _Guatemala, Comayagua_, and _Nicaragua_, hath with

_Panama_ over that narrow _Isthmus_ lying between the North, and South

sea, which is very dangerous by reason of the craggy waies, rockes,

and mountaines, but more especially, by reason of many Heathens,

Barbarians and savage people, which as yet are not conquered by the

_Spaniards_, and sometimes do great hurt and mischief, and kill those

that with Mules passe through their Countrey, especially if they

misdemean themselves, or please them not well. Yet for all these

difficulties, I was entertaining a thought to go along with those Mules

and _Spaniards_, which were now on their way by land to _Panama_. The

three _Spaniards_ were halfe of the same mind; but the providence of

God who better ordereth and disposeth mans affaires then he himselfe,

disappointed these our thoughts for our good and safety, as after

we were informed; for we heard for certain at _Nicoya_, that some

of those Mules and _Spaniards_ were killed by the _Barbarians_ and

savage _Indians_, amongst whom my life might have been lost, if I had

attempted that hard and dangerous journey; from which many well wishers

at _Carthago_ did disswade me, both for the danger of the _Indians_,

and for the difficulties of the waies and mountaines, which they told

me the weakenesse of my body would never indure. After we had wholly

desisted from this Land journey, the best counsell, that we had from

some Merchants our friends, was to try whether _Mar del Zur_, or the

South sea, would favour our designe and journey, better then the

_Mar del Norte_, or the North sea had done; who wished us to goe to

_Nicoya_, and from thence to _Chira_, and to the _Golfo de Salinas_,

where they doubted not but we should find shipping to _Panama_. Wee

were willing to follow any good advise and counsell; yet we knew

that this was the last shift which we could make, and the _non plus

ultra_ of our hopes, and that if here we should be disappointed, we

could expect no other way ever to get to _Panama_, except we should

venture our lives most desperately over the mountaines of _Veragua_,

and by land without any guide or company through the Countrey of the

Barbarians, (who before had slaine some _Spaniards_ passing that

way) or else should returne againe, all the way that we had come, to

_Realejo_, where our hopes might be frustrated, and peradventure no

shipping found for _Panama_, without a yeers waiting for it.

We resolved therefore to follow this our friends counsell, and to

goe yet to _Nicoya_, and from thence to _Golfo de Salinas_, where

laughing, I told the three _Spaniards_ of my company, that if we were

disappointed, we would like _Hercules_ set up a Pillar to eternize our

fame, with our names, and this inscription upon it, _Non plus Ultra_,

for that beyond it there was no other Port, Haven, or place, to take

shipping to _Panama_; neither could any man have done more (nor ever

did any _English_ man in that Countrey doe more then my selfe) then

wee had done, but especially my selfe, who from _Mexico_ had thus

travelled by land to _Nicoya_ at lead six hundred leagues, or eighteen

hundred _English_ miles straight from North to South, besides what I

had travelled from _Vera Cruz_ to _Mexico_, and from _Guatemala_ to

_Vera Paz_, and to _Puerto de Cavallos_, or _Golfo dulce_, and from

thence to _Truxillo_, and from thence back againe to _Guatemala_, which

was at least thirteen or fourteen hundred _English_ miles more, which

I thought to eternize upon a pillar at _Nicoya_. But what there was

not erected, I hope here shall be eternized, and that this my true

and faithfull History shall bee a Monument of three thousand, and

three hundred miles travelled by an _English_ man, within the main

land of _America_, besides other sea navigations to _Panama_, from

_Portobel_ to _Carthagena_, and from thence unto the _Havana_. The way

which we travelled from _Carthago_ to _Nicoya_ was very mountainous,

hard, & unpleasant, for we met with few Estancia's of _Spaniards_, and

few _Indian_ Towns, and those very poor, smal, and all of dejected

and wretched people. Yet _Nicoya_ is a pretty Towne, and head of a

_Spanish_ government, where wee found one _Justo de Salazar_, Alcalde

Maior, who entertained us very well, and provided lodgings for us for

the time that wee should abide there, and comforted us with hopeful

words, that though for the present there was no ship or frigat in the

Golfe of _Salinas_, yet he doubted not, but very shortly one would

come from _Panama_ thither, for Salt and other commodities, as yeerly

they were wont. The time of the yeer when we came thither, was a fit

time for me to get againe some monies after my great losse; for it was

in Lent which is the Friers chiefest harvest, who (as I have before

observed) then by Confessions and by giving the Communion get many

money offerings.

The time, and the Franciscan Frier who had the Pastorship and charge

of that Towne, were both very commodious unto me, who could not refuse

as long as I stayed there to exercise my function, lest I should bring

a just cause of suspition and aspersion upon my selfe. The Frier of

the Towne was a _Portingal_, who about three weeks before my comming

thither had had a very great bickering and strife with _Justo de

Salazar_ the Alcalde Maior, for defending the _Indians_, whom _Salazar_

did grievously oppresse, employing them in his, and his wifes service

as slaves, and not paying them what for the sweat of their browes was

due unto them, and commanding them to be from their home and from their

wives, and from their Church upon the Sabbath, working for him as well

that day as any other. Which the Frier not enduring, charged them in

the pulpit, not to obey any such unlawfull commands from their Alcalde

Maior. But _Justo de Salazar_ (who had been trained up in warres and

fighting, and had served formerly in the Castle of _Milan_) thought it

a great disparagement unto him, now to be curbed by a Frier, and by

such a one to be interrupted in his government of the _Indians_, and

in the waies of his owne lucre and gaine. Therefore after many bitter

words and defiances, which had passed between him and the Frier, he

came one day resolutely to the Friers house with his sword drawne; and

certainly had not the Frier been assisted by some of the _Indians_, he

had killed him. The Frier being as hot as he, and standing upon his

calling, Orders, and Preisthood, presuming that hee durst not touch

him violently, lest his priviledge should bring an excommunication

upon the striker and offendour, would not flie from him, but dared him

boldly; which was a strong provocation to _Salazars_ heat and passion,

and caused him to lift up his sword, and aime his blow and stroke at

the Frier, which fell so unhappily that with it he strucke of two of

the Friers fingers, and had undoubtedly seconded another blow more

hurtfull and dangerous to the Frier, had not the _Indians_ interposed

themselves, and shut up their Preist into his chamber. _Justo_ was

for this action excommunicated, yet for that he was a man of high

authority, he soone got off his excommunication from the Bishop of

_Costarica_ and sent his complaint to the Chancery of _Guatemala_

against the Frier, where with friends and mony he doubted not but to

overcome the Mendicant Preist, as it happened after; for (as I was

informed) hee caused the Frier to be sent for up to the Court, and

there prevailed so much against him, that he got him to be removed

from _Nicoya_. In this season the Frier kept his house and chamber,

and would by no means goe out to the Church, either to say Masse, or

to preach, or hear Confessions, (all which that time of the yeer did

require of him) but had got one to helpe him; who alone not being able

to performe so great a charge of many hundred _Indians, Spaniards,

Black-mores_, and _Mulatto's_, who from the Countrey without, and

from the Towne within expected to have their Confessions heard, their

sins absolved, the word preached, and the Communion to be given them;

hearing of my comming desired me to assist and helpe him, and that

for my paines I should have my meat and drinke at his table, and a

Crowne daily for every Masse, and whatsoever else the people should

voluntarily offer, besides the Sermons, which should be well rewarded

unto me. I staied in this Towne from the second week of Lent untill

Easter weeke, where what with three Sermons at ten Crownes a peece,

what with my daily stipend and many other offerings, I got about an

hundred and fifty Crownes.

The weeke before Easter newes came of a frigat from _Panama_ to _Golfo

de Salinas_, which much comforted us, who already began to mistrust the

delay. The Master of the frigat came to _Nicoya_, which is as Court

thereabouts; and with him the three _Spaniards_ and my selfe agreed for

our passage to _Panama_. About _Chira, Golfo de Salinas_, and _Nicoya_,

there are some farmes of _Spaniards_, few and very small _Indian_

Townes, who are all like slaves employed by the Alcalde Maior, to make

him a kind of thred called Pita, which is a very rich Commodity in

_Spain_, especially of that colour wherewith it is dyed in these parts

of _Nicoya_, which is a purple colour; for the which the _Indians_ are

here much charged to work about the Sea shore, and there to finde out

certain shels, wherewith they make this purple dye.

There are also shels for other colours, which are not knowne to be so

plentifully in any other place as here. About _Chira_ and _Golfo de

Salinas_ the chief commodities are Salt, Hony, Maiz, some Wheat and

Fowles, which every yeer they send by some few Frigats to _Panama_,

which from thence come on purpose to fetch them with this purple

coloured thred, or _Pita_, which I have spoken of. The Frigat which

came when I was there, was soon laden with these Commodities, and with

it we set out hoping to have been at _Panama_ within five or six dayes.

But as often before we had been crossed, so likewise in this short

passage wee were striving with the Wind, Sea, and Corrientes, as they

are called (which are swift streames as of a River) foure full weekes.

After the first day that wee set out, wee were driven with a wind

and storme towards _Peru_, till wee came under the very Æquinoctiall

line, where what with excessive heat, what with mighty stormes, we

utterly despaired of life. But after one week that we had thus run

towards death, it pleased God in whom and by whom all creatures live,

move, and have their being, to comfort us againe with hopes of life,

sending us a prosperous gale, which drove us out of that Æquinoctiall

heat, and stormy Sea, towards the Islands of _Perlas_ and _Puerta de

Chame_, lying on the South side of the Mountaines of _Veragua_, from

whence wee hoped within two dayes at the most, to be at rest and Anchor

at _Panama_. But yet these our hopes were frustrated, for there our

wind was calmed, and we fell upon those strong Corrientes or streams,

which drave us back in the night for the space of almost a fortnight

as much as wee had sailed in the day. Had not God againe been merciful

here unto us, we had certainly perished in this our striving with the

stream; for although wee wanted not provision of food, yet our drink

failed us so, that for foure dayes wee tasted neither drop of wine or

water, or any thing that might quench our thirst, save onely a little

hony which wee found did cause more thirst in us, which made mee and

some others to drink our own Urine, and to refresh our mouthes with

peeces of lead bullets, which did for a while refresh, but would not

long have sufficed Nature, had not Gods good Providence sent us such

a wind which in the day drave us quite off from those Corrientes. Our

first thoughts were then to strike either to the Continent, or some

Island of many which were about us to seek for water, finding our

bodies weak and languishing; which the Captaine of the Ship would by

no meanes yeeld unto, assuring us that that day hee would land us at

_Panama_; but wee not being able to saile on without drink, unlesse

wee should yeeld to have our dead and not live bodies landed where hee

promised, thought it no good purchase though we might buy all _Panama_

with our lives, which wee judged could not hold out another day; and

seeing that the wind began to slacken, we all required him to strike

into some Island for water; which he stubbornly refused and denyed to

doe; whereupon the three _Spaniards_ and some of the Mariners mutinied

against him with drawn Swords, threatning to kill him if he betooke not

himselfe presently to some Island. The good Master thought it bad sport

to see Swords at his breast, and so commanded his Ship to bee turned

to two or three Islands, which were not above two or three houres sail

from us. When we drew nigh unto them, wee cast our Anchor, and our

Cock-boat, and happy was hee that could first cast himself into it to

be rowed to land to fill his belly with water. The first Island wee

landed upon, was on that side unhabitable, where wee spent much time

running to and fro, over heating our selves and increasing our thirst;

thus whilst one ran one way, and another tryed another to find out

some fountain, our hopes being frustrated and I lost in the Wood, and

my shooes torne from my feet, with stony rocks, and many thornes and

bushes in other places; my company betook themselves to the Cock-boat

to try another Island, leaving mee alone, and lost in the Wood; out

of which at last when I came, and found the Cock-boat gone from the

shore, I began to consider myself a dead man, thinking that they had

found water and were gone to Ship, and not finding mee would hoise up

their sailes for _Panama_. Thus being dejected I cryed out to the Ship,

which I perceived could not possibly hear my weak voyce, and running

up and down the Rocks to see if I could discover the Cock-boat, I

perceived it was not with the Ship, and espied it at the next Island.

With this I began to hope better things of them that they would call

for mee when they had gotten water; so I came down from the Rocks to

the plain shore, where I found a shade of trees and amongst them some

berries (which might have been poison, for I knew them not) wherewith

I refreshed my mouth for a while; but my body so burned that I thought

there with heat, weaknesse and faintnesse I should have expired and

given up the Ghost. I thought by stripping my selfe naked and going

into the Sea unto my neck, I might thus refresh my body, which I did,

and comming out againe into the shade, I fell into a deep sleep, in

so much that the Cock-boat comming for mee, and the company hollowing

unto mee, I awaked not, which made them feare that I was dead or lost;

till landing, one searched for mee one way, and another another, and

so they found me, who might have been a prey to some wild Beast, or

slept till the Frigat had gone away, and so have perished in a barren

and unhabitable Island. When they awaked mee, I was glad to see my good

company, and the first thing I enquired for, was, if they had got any

water; they bad mee bee of good cheere and arise, for they had water

enough, and Oranges and Lemmons from another Island, where they met

with _Spaniards_ that did inhabit it. I made haste with them to the

Boat, and no sooner was I entred into it, but they gave mee to drink

as much as I would. The water was warme and unsetled, for they could

not take it up so but that they tooke of the gravell and bottome of the

Fountain, which made it look very muddy; yet for all this (as though

my life had depended upon it) I drank up a whole pot of it; which no

sooner had I dranke, but such was the weaknesse of my stomack that it

presently cast it up againe not being able to beare it. With this they

wished me to eat an Orange or a Lemmon; but them also did my stomack

reject; so to our Frigat wee went, and in the way I fainted so that

the company verily thought I would die, before wee got aboard. When

wee came thither I called againe for water, which was no sooner downe

my stomack, but presently up again; they had mee to bed with a burning

Feaver upon mee; where I lay that night expecting nothing but death,

and that the Sea should bee my grave.

The Master of the Ship seeing the wind was turned, began to bee much

troubled, and feared that with that wind he should never get to

_Panama_. He resolved to venture upon a way, which never before hee

had tryed; which was, to get between the two Islands which wee had

searched for water, knowing that the wind, which on this side was

contrary, on the other side of the Islands would bee favourable unto

him. Thus towards the Evening hee tooke up Anchor and hoised up his

sailes, and resolved to passe his Frigat between the two Islands; which

how dangerous and desperate an attempt it was, the event witnessed.

I lay in this season (as I may truely say) upon my death bed, not

regarding which way the Master of the Ship, or fortune carried mee, so

that the mercy of the Lord carryed my soule to heaven. No sooner had

the Frigat steered her course between the narrow passage of the two

Islands, when being carryed with the stream too much to the one side

of the land it ran upon a Rock; so that the very stern was lifted up,

and almost call out of the Pilots hands, who cryed out not to God, but

unto the Virgin _Mary_ saying, _Ayudad nos Virgen Santissima, que si

no aqui nos perecemos_, help us, O most holy Virgin, for if not, here

we perish. This, and the outcry of all that were in the Frigat gave

unto mee an Alarm of death; from the which yet it pleased God by the

meanes and diligence of the painefull Mariners to deliver mee and all

the Company, for with much adoe most part of that night they haled from

the Cock-boat the Frigat off from the Rock, after the streame had made

it three severall times to strike upon it. After a very troublesome

night in the morning wee got our little Ship out of all danger and from

between the two Islands on the other side of them, where wee sailed

prosperously towards _Panama_. That morning my stomack recovered some

of its lost strength, and I began to eat and to drink, and to walk

about, rejoycing much to see those pleasant Islands which wee sailed

by. In the Evening wee got to _Puerto de Perico_; where wee cast

Anchor, expecting to bee searched in the morning; but that night (the

Master of our Ship having gone to shore) the wind turned and blew so

strong that wee lost our Anchor, and and were driven back almost to _la

Pacheque_ and feared wee should bee carried out into the Ocean againe

so farre that we should with great difficulty get to _Panama_. But that

God whom the Sea and winds doe obey, turned againe that contrary wind

into a prosperous gale, wherewith wee came once more unto _Perico_;

and being searched wee went on with full sail to _Panama_; Being neere

the Port and without an Anchor in our Ship the wind once more blew

us back and had not the Ship Master sent us an Anchor, we had gon

againe to _Pacheque_ or further. But with that anchor we stayed all

that night at _Perico_, wondring among our selves that so many crosses

should befall us, which made some say that we were bewitched; others,

that certainly there was amongst us some excommunicated person, whom

they said if they knew of, they would hurle him over bord. Whilst they

were in this discourse, the wind turned yet againe, and we levying our

anchor went on to _Panama_, whither it pleased God that time safely

to conduct us in. I being now well strengthened made no stay in that

frigat, which I thought would have been my last abiding place in this

world, but went to land, and betooke my selfe to the Cloister of the

Dominicans, where I stayed almost fifteen daies viewing and reviewing

that City; which is governed like _Guatemala_ by a President and six

Judges, and a Court of Chancery, and is a Bishops sea. It hath more

strength towards the South sea, then any other Port which on that side

I had seen, and some Ordnances planted for the defence of it; but the

houses are of the least strength of any place that I had entred in; for

lime and stone is hard to come by, and therefore for that reason, and

for the great heat there, most of the houses are built of timber and

bords; the Presidents house, nay the best Church walls are but bords,

which serve for stone and bricke, and for tiles to cover the top. The

heat is so extraordinary that a linnen cut doublet, with some slight

stuffe or taffetie breeches is the common cloathing of the inhabitants.

Fish, fruits and herbage for sallets is more plentifull there then

flesh; the coole water of the Coco is the womens best drinke, though

Chocolatte also, and much wine from _Peru_ be very abounding. The

_Spaniards_ are in this City much given to sinne, loosenesse and

venery especially, who make the _Black-mores_, (who are many, rich,

and gallant) the chiefe objects of their lust. It is held to be one of

the richest places in all _America_, having by land and by the river

_Chiagre_ commerce with the North sea, and by the South, trading with

all _Peru, East-India's, Mexico_, and _Honduras_. Thither is brought

the chiefe treasure of _Peru_ in two or three great ships, which lie

at anchor at _Puerto de Perico_ some three leagues from the City; for

the great ebbing of the sea at that place especially suffereth not any

great vessell to come neerer, where daily the sea ebbs and falls away

from the City two or three miles, leaving a mud, which is thought to

cause much unhealthinesse in that place, being seconded with many other

muddy and moorish places about the Town. It consisteth of some five

thousand inhabitants, and maintaineth at least eight Cloisters of Nuns

and Friers. I feared much the heats, and therefore made as much haste

out of it as I could. I had my choice of company by land and water to

_Portobelo_. But considering the hardnesse of the mountaines by land,

I resolved to goe by the river _Chiagre_; and so at midnight I set out

from _Panama_ to _Venta de Cruzes_, which is ten or twelve leagues from

it. The way is thither very plaine for the most part, and pleasant in

the morning and evening.

Before ten of the clock we got to _Venta de Cruzes_, where live none

but _Mulatto's_ and _Black-mores_, who belong unto the flat boates

that carry the merchandize to _Portobel_. There I had very good

entertainment by that people, who desired me to preach unto them

the next Sabbath day, and gave me twenty Crownes for a Sermon, and

procession. After five daies of my abode there, the boats set out,

which were much stopped in their passage downe the river; for in some

places we found the water very low, so that the boats ran upon the

gravell; from whence with poles and the strength of the _Black-mores_

they were to be lifted off againe; sometimes again we met with such

streams that carried us with the swiftnesse of an arrow downe under

trees and boughes by the river side, which sometimes also stopped us

till we had cut downe great branches of trees. Had not it pleased God

to send us after the first weeke plentifull raine, which made the water

run downe from the mountaines and fill the river (which otherwise

of it selfe is very shallow) we might have had a tedious and longer

passage; but after twelve daies we got to the sea, and at the point

landed at the Castle to refresh our selves for halfe a day. Certainly

the _Spaniards_ trust to the streames and shallownesse of that river,

which they thinke will keep off any forain nation, from attempting

to come up to _Venta de Cruzes_ and from thence to _Panama_, or else

they would strengthen more and fortifie that Castle, which in my time

wanted great reparations, and was ready to fall downe to the ground.

The Governour of the Castle was a notable wine-bibber, who plyed us

with that liquor the time that we stayed there, and wanting a Chaplain

for himselfe, and Souldiers, would faine have had me stayed with him;

but greater matters called me further, and so I tooke my leave of him,

who gave us some dainties of fresh meat, fish, and conserves, and so

dismissed us. We got out to the open sea, discovering first the _Escudo

de Veragua_, and keeping somewhat close unto the land we went on rowing

towards _Portobel_, till the evening which was Saturday night; then we

cast anchor behind a little Island, resolving in the morning to enter

in _Portobel_. The _Black-mores_ all that night kept watch for fear of

_Hollanders_, whom they said did often lie in wait thereabouts for the

boats of _Chiagre_; but we passed the night safely, and next morning

got to _Portobelo_, whose haven we observed to be very strong with two

Castles at the mouth and constant watch within them, and another called

_St. Miguel_ further in the Port.

When I came into the Haven I was sorry to see that as yet the Galeons

were not come from _Spaine_, knowing that the longer I stayed in that

place, greater would be my charges. Yet I comforted my selfe that the

time of the yeer was come, and that they could not long delay their

coming. My first thoughts were of taking up a lodging, which at that

time were plentifull and cheape, nay some were offered me for nothing

with this caveat, that when the Galeons did come, I must either leave

them, or pay a dear rate for them. A kind Gentleman, who was the Kings

Treasurer, falling in discourse with me promised to helpe me, that I

might be cheaply lodged even when the ships came, and lodgings were at

the highest rate. Hee, interposing his authority, went with me to seeke

one, which at the time of the fleets being there, might continue to be

mine. It was no bigger then would containe a bed, a table, and a stoole

or two, with roome enough besides to open and shut the doore, and they

demanded of me for it during the foresaid time of the Fleet, sixcore

Crownes, which commonly is a fortnight. For the Towne being little, and

the Souldiers, that come with the Galeons for their defence at least

four or five thousand; besides Merchants from _Peru_, from _Spain_

and many other places to buy and sell, is the cause that every roome,

though never so small be dear; and sometimes all the lodgings in the

Towne are few enough for so many people, which at that time doe meet at

_Portobel_. I knew a Merchant who gave a thousand Crownes for a shop

of reasonable bignesse, to sell his wares and commodities that yeer

that I was there, for fifteen daies only, which the Fleet continued

to be in that Haven. I thought it much for me to give the sixcore

Crownes which were demanded of me for a room, which was but as a mouse

hole, and began to be troubled, and told the Kings Treasurer that I

had been lately robbed at sea, and was not able to give so much, and

bee besides at charges for my diet, which I feared would prove as much

more. But not a farthing would be abated of what was asked; whereupon

the good Treasurer pitying me, offered to the man of the house to pay

him threescore Crowns of it, if so be that I was able to pay the rest,

which I must doe, or else lie without in the street. Yet till the

Fleet did come I would not enter into this deare hole, but accepted of

another faire lodging which was offered me for nothing. Whilest I thus

expected the Fleets coming, some mony and offerings I got for Masses,

and for two Sermons which I preached at fifteen Crownes a peece. I

visited the Castles, which indeed seemed unto me to be very strong;

but what most I wondred at was to see the requa's of Mules which came

thither from _Panama_, laden with wedges of silver; in one day I told

two hundred Mules laden with nothing else, which were unladen in the

publicke Market place, so that there the heapes of silver wedges lay

like heaps of stones in the street, without any feare or suspition

of being lost. Within ten daies the fleet came, consisting of eight

Galeons and ten Merchant ships, which forced me to run to my hole. It

was a wonder then to see the multitude of people in those streets which

the weeke before had been empty.

Then began the price of all things to rise, a fowl to be worth twelve

Rials, which in the main land within I had often bought for one; a

pound of beefe then was worth two Rialls, whereas I had had in other

places thirteen pound for half a Riall, and so of all other food and

provision, which was so excessive dear, that I knew not how to live but

by fish and Tortoises, which there are very many, and though somewhat

deare, yet were the cheapest meat that I could eate. It was worth

seeing how Merchants sold their commodities, not by the Ell or yard,

but by the piece and weight, not paying in coined peeces of mony, but

in wedges which were weighed and taken for commodities. This lasted but

fifteen dayes, whilst the Galeons were lading with wedges of silver

and nothing else; so that for those fifteen daies, I dare boldly say

and avouch, that in the world there is no greater Fair then that

of _Portobel_, between the _Spanish_ Merchants and those of _Peru,

Panama_, and other parts thereabouts.

Whilest this traffique was, it happened unto me, that which I have

formerly testified in my Recantation Sermon at _Pauls_ Church, which if

by that meanes it have not come unto the knowledge of many, I desire

again to record it in this my History, that to all _England_ it may be

published; which was, that one day saying Masse in the chiefe Church,

after the Consecration of the bread, being with my eyes shut at that

mentall prayer, which the Church of _Rome_ calleth the _Memento_ for

their dead, there came from behind the Altar a mouse, which running

about, came to the very bread or wafer God of the Papists, and taking

it in his mouth ran away with it, not being perceived by any of the

people who were at Masse, for that the Altar was high by reason of the

steps going up to it, and the people farre beneath. But as soone as I

opened my eyes to goe on with my Masse, and perceived my God stollen

away, I looked about the Altar, and saw the mouse running away with it;

which on a suddain did so stupifie me, that I knew not well what to doe

or say, and calling my wits together, I thought that if I should take

no notice of the mischance, and any body else in the Church should, I

might justly be questioned by the Inquisition; but if I should call

to the people to look for the Sacrament, then I might bee but chid

and rebuked for my carelessenesse; which of the two I thought would

be more easily borne, then the rigour of the Inquisition. Whereupon

not knowing what the people had seen, I turned my selfe unto them, and

called them unto the Altar, and told them plainely, that whilest I was

in my _Memento_ prayers and meditations, a mouse had carried away the

Sacrament, and that I knew not what to doe, unlesse they would helpe

me to find it out again. The people called a Priest that was at hand,

who presently brought in more of his Coat; and as if their God by this

had been eaten up they presently prepared themselves to find out the

thief, as if they would eat up the mouse that had so assaulted and

abused their God; they lighted candles and torches to find out the

Malefactour in his secret and hidden places of the wall; and after much

searching and enquiry for the sacrilegious beast, they found at last

in a hole of the wall the Sacrament halfe eaten up; which with great

joy they took out, and as if the Arke had been brought again from the

_Philistines_ to the _Israelites_, so they rejoyced for their new found

God, whom with many people now resorted to the Church, with many lights

of candles and Torches, with joyfull and solemne musicke they carried

about the Church in procession. My selfe was present upon my knees,

shaking and quivering for what might be done unto mee, and expecting my

doome and judgement; and as the Sacrament passed by me, I observed in

it the markes and signes of the teeth of the mouse, as they are to bee

seen in a piece of cheese gnawne and eaten by it.

This struck mee with such horrour, that I cared not at that present

whether I had been torne in a thousand peices for denying publickely

that Mouse-eaten God, I called to my best memory all Philosophy

concerning substance and accidents, and resolved within my selfe that

what I saw gnawne, was not an accident, but some reall substance eaten

and devoured by that vermin, which certainly was fed and nourished

by what it had eaten, and Philosophy well teacheth; _substantia Cibi

(non accidentis) convertitur in substantiam alii_, the substance (not

the accident,) of the food or meat is converted, and turned into the

substance of the thing fed by it and alimented; Now here I knew that

this Mouse had fed upon some substance, or else how could the markes

of the teeth so plainely appeare? But no Papist will bee willing to

answer that it fed upon the substance of Christs Body, _ergo_ by good

consequence it followes that it fed upon the substance of bread; and so

Transubstantiation here in my judgement was confuted by a Mouse; which

meane and base creature God chose to convince mee of my former errours,

and made mee now resolve upon what many yeeres before I had doubted,

that certainly the point of Transubstantiation taught by the Church of

_Rome_ is most damnable and erroneous; for besides, what before I have

observed, it contradicteth that Philosophicall Axiome, teaching that

_duo contradictoria non possunt simul & semel de eodem verificari_, two

contradictories cannot at once and at the self same time be said, and

verified of the same thing; but here it was so; for here in _Romes_

Judgement and opinion Christs body was gnawne and eaten, and at the

same time the same body in another place and upon another Altar in

the hands of another Preist was not eaten and gnawne, Therefore here

are two contradictories verified of the same body of Christ: to

wit, it was eaten and gnawne, and it was not eaten and gnawne. These

impressions at that time were so great in me, that I resolved within my

selfe, that bread really and truely was eaten upon that Altar, and by

no meanes Christs glorious body which is in heaven, and cannot be upon

earth, subject to the hunger or violence of a creature. Here againe I

desired with godly _David_, that I might have the wings of a Dove to

flie into my Country of _England_, and there be satisfied upon this

point, and be at rest of Conscience. Here I resolved that if I had been

questioned for my carelessenesse, or for my contempt of that Romish

Sacrament (which I thought would be the judgement of the _Spaniards_,

who knew me to be an _English_ man borne) that I would sacrifice

willingly my life for the Protestant truth, which as yet I had been

no otherwise taught, but by that Spirit which (as _Solomon_ well

observeth) in a man is the candle of the Lord. I conceived here that

this was some comfort to my soule, which my good God would afford mee

in the way of my travelling to _Canaan_, that I might more willingly

beare whatsoever crosses yet might befall mee in my way and Journey to

_England_. The event of this accident was not any trouble that fell

upon mee for it; for indeed the _Spaniards_ attributed it unto the

carelessnesse of him, who had care of the Altars in the Church, and

not to any contempt in mee to the Sacrament. The part of the wafer

that was left after the Mouse had filled her belly, was laid up after

the Solemne Procession about the Church, in a Tabernacle for that

purpose, that afterwards it might be eaten up by some hungry Preist.

And because such a high contempt had beene offered by a contemptible

Vermin to their Bread God, it was commanded through _Portabel_ that

day, that all the people should humble themselves and mourn, and fast

with bread and water onely. Although I saw I was not questioned for

the case, yet I feared where there were so many Souldiers, and forain

people, that by some or other I might bee mischiefed out of their

blind zeale, wherefore I thought it not amisse for a day or two to

keepe within my lodging. _Don Carlos de Ybarra_, who was the Admirall

of that Fleet, made great haste to bee gone; which made the Merchants

buy and sell apace, and lade the ships with silver wedges; whereof I

was glad, for the more they laded, the lesse I unladed my purse with

buying deare provision, and sooner I hoped to be out of that unhealthy

place, which of it selfe is very hot, and subject to breed Feavers,

nay death, if the feet bee not preserved from wetting when it raineth;

but especially when the Fleet is there, it is an open grave ready to

swallow in part of that numerous people, which at that time resort unto

it, as was seene the yeare that I was there when about five hundred of

the Souldiers, Merchants, and Mariners, what with Feavers, what with

the Flux caused by too much eating of fruit and drinking of water, what

with other disorders lost their lives, finding it to bee to them not

_Porto bello_, but _Porto malo_. And this is usuall every yeare; and

therefore for the reliefe and comfort of those that come sick from Sea,

or sicken there, a great and rich Hospitall is in the Towne, with many

Fryers called _De la Capacha_, or by others _De Juan de Dios_, whose

calling and profession is onely to cure, and attend upon the sick, and

to beare the dead unto their graves. The Admirall fearing the great

sicknesse that yeare, made haste to be gone, not fearing the report

that was of some three or four _Holland_ or _English_ ships abroad at

Sea, waiting (as it was supposed) for some good prize out of that great

and rich Fleet. This news made mee beginne to feare, and to thinke of

securing my selfe in one of the best and strongest Galeons; but when I

came to treat of my passage in one of them, I found that I could not

bee carryed in any under three hundred Crownes, which was more then my

purse was able to afford. With this I thought to addresse my self to

some Master of a Merchants ship, though I knew I could not bee so safe

and secure in any of them, as in a Galeon well manned and fortified

with Souldiers, and Guns of Brasse; yet I hoped in God, who is a

strong refuge to them that feare him, and in this occasion provided

for mee, a cheap and sure passage. For meeting one day with my friend

the Treasurer, hee againe pitying me as a stranger and lately robbed,

commended me to the Master of a Merchant Ship, called St. _Sebastian_,

whom hee knew was desirous to carry a Chaplaine with him at his own

Table. I no sooner addressed my selfe unto him, using the name and

favour of his and my friend the Treasurer, but presently I found him

willing to accept of my company, promising to carry me for nothing,

and to board mee at his own Table, onely for my prayers to God for him

and his; offering farther to give mee some satisfaction for whatsoever

Sermons I should preach in his Ship. I blessed God, acknowledging in

this also his Providence, who in all occasions furthered my returne to

_England_. The Ships being laden wee set forth towards _Carthagena_,

and the second day of our sayling wee discovered foure Ships which

made the Merchant Ships afraid, and to keepe close to the Galeons,

trusting to their strength more then their own. The Ship I was in, was

swift and nimble under sail, and kept still under the wings either of

the Admirall or of some other of the best Galeons; but all the other

Merchants Ships were not so, but some slowly came on behind, whereof

two were carryed away by the _Hollanders_ in the night, before ever wee

could get to _Carthagena_.

The greatest feare that I perceived possessed the _Spaniards_ in this

Voyage, was about the Island of _Providence_, called by them _Sta

Catalina_, or St. _Catharine_, from whence they feared lest some

_English_ Ships should come out against them with great strength.

They cursed the _English_ in it, and called the Island, the den of

theeves and Pirates, wishing that their King of _Spain_ would take

some course with it; or else, that it would prove very prejudiciall

to the _Spaniards_, lying neer the mouth of the _Desaguadero_, and so

endangering the Frigats of _Granada_, and standing between _Portobel_

and _Carthagena_, and so threatning the Galeons, and their Kings

yeerely and mighty treasure.

Thus with bitter invectives against the _English_ and the Island of

_Providence_ we sayled on to _Carthagena_, where againe wee met with

the foure Ships, which before had followed us and had taken away two of

our Ships, and now at our entering into that Port, threatned to carry

away more of our company; which they might have done, if they would

have ventured to have come upon the Ship wherein I went, which at the

turning about the land point to get into the Haven, ran upon the shore,

which if it had been rocky, as it was sandy and gravelly, had certainly

there beene cast away by keeping too neere unto the land, from which

danger by the care of the Mariners, and their active paines we were

safely delivered, as also from the ships which followed us as far as

they durst for fear of the Cannon shot of the Castle; and thus we

entered into the Haven of _Carthagena_, and stayed there for the space

of eight or ten dayes; where I met with some of my Country men their

Prisoners, who had been taken at Sea by the _Spaniards_, and belonged

unto the Island of _Providence_; among whom was the Renowned Captaine

_Rouse_, and about a dozen more, with whom I was glad to meet, but

durst not shew them too much countenance, for feare of being suspected;

yet I soon got the good will of some of them, who, being destined to

_Spain_, were very desirous to goe in the ship, wherein I went; which

desire of theirs I furthered, and was suiter unto my Captaine to carry

foure of them in his ship, which for my sake he willingly yeelded unto;

amongst these was one _Edward Layfield_, (who afterwards setting out

of St. _Lucar_ for _England_, was taken Captive by the _Turkes_, and

since from _Turkey_ writ into _England_ unto mee to helpe to release

him) with whom both at _Carthagena_, and in the way in the ship I had

great discourse concerning points of Religion, and by him came to know

some things professed in _England_, which my conscience (whilst I lived

in _America_) much inclined unto. I was much taken with his company,

and found him very officious unto mee, whose kindnesse I requited by

speaking for him in the ship to the Masters and Mariners, who otherwise

were ready and forward to abuse him and the rest of the _English_

company as prisoners and slaves.

At _Carthagena_ wee heard a report of threescore saile of ships of

_Hollanders_ waiting for the Galeons, which struck no little feare

into the _Spaniards_; who called a councell whether our Fleet should

winter there, or goe on to _Spain_. It proved to be but a false report

of the Inhabitants of _Carthagena_, who for their own ends and lucre

would willingly have had the ships and Galeons to have stayed there;

but _Don Carlos de Ybarra_ replyed, that hee feared not a hundred

saile of _Hollanders_, and therefore would goe on to _Spain_, hoping

to carry thither safely the Kings treasure. Which hee performed and in

eight dayes arrived at _Havana_, where we stayed eight dayes longer,

expecting the Fleet from _Vera Cruz_. In which time I viewed wel that

strong Castle manned with the twelve Guns, called the twelve Apostles,

which would doe little hurt to an Army by land, or marching from the

River of _Matansos_. I visited here the mother of that Mulatto, who had

taken away all my meanes at Sea; and spent much time in comforting my

poore Country men the prisoners; but especially that gallant Captaine

_Rouse_, who came unto mee to complaine of some affronts which had been

offered unto him by _Spaniards_, in the ship wherein he came; which

hee not being able to put up, though a Prisoner unto them desired to

question in the field, challenging his proud contemners to meet him if

they durst in any place of the Havana, (a brave courage in a dejected

and Imprisoned _English_ man to challenge a _Spaniard_ in his Country,

a Cock upon his own dunghill,) which as soone as I understood by

_Edward Layfield_, I desired to take up, fearing that many would fall

upon him cowardly and mince him small in peices. I sent for him to the

Cloister where I lay, and there had conference with him, prevailing

so far as that I made him desist from his thoughts of going into the

field, and shewing his manhood in such a time and place, where his

low condition of a Prisoner might well excuse him. The rest of my

poore country men were here much discouraged and in some want; whom

I relieved (especially _Layfield_) and incouraged as much as I was

able. I chanced here to have occasion to take a little physick before

I went again to Sea, & thereby I learned what before I never knew,

to wit, the dyet which on such a day the best Physitians of _Havana_

prescribe unto their patients. Whereas after the working of my physick,

I expected some peece of Mutton, or a fowl, or some other nourishing

meat, my Physitian left order that I should have a peece of rosted

Porke, which seeming unto mee a Dyet contrary to that daies extremity,

I began to refuse it, alleadging to my Doctor the contrary course of

all Nations, the naturall quality of that meat to open the body. To

which he replyed, that what Porke might worke upon mans body in other

Nations, it worked not there, but the contrary; and so he wished me

to feed upon what hee had prescribed, assuring mee that it would doe

mee no hurt. Now as Hogs flesh there is held to be so nourishing, so

likewise no other meat is more then it, and Tortoises, wherewith all

the ships make their provision for _Spain_. The Tortoises they cut out

in long thin slices, as I have noted before of the Tassajos, and dry

it in the wind after they have well salted it, and so it serveth the

Mariners, in all their voyage to _Spain_, which they eate boyled with

a little garlicke, and I have heard them say that to them it tasted

as well as any Veale. They also take into their ships some fowles for

the Masters and Captaines tables, and live hogs, which would seem to

be enough to breed some infection in the ship, had they not care to

wash often the place where such unclean beasts lie. In the ship where

I was passenger, was killed every weeke one for the Masters, Pilots

and passengers table. Thus all things being made ready for the ships

provision to _Spain_, and the Merchants goods and the Kings Revenue

being shipped in nine dayes that we abode there; we now wanted nothing,

but onely the company of the Fleet from _Vera Cruz_, which should have

met us there upon the eight day of _September_. But _Don Carlos de

Ybarra_, seeing it stayed longer then the time appointed, and fearing

the weather, & the New Moon of that moneth which commonly proveth

dangerous in the Golf of _Bahama_, resolved to stay no longer, but

to set out to _Spain_. On a Sabbath day therefore in the morning we

hoised sails, (being in all seven and twenty ships with those which had

met with us there from _Honduras_ and the Islands), and one by one we

sailed out of Havana to the main Sea, where we that day wafted about

for a good wind, and also waiting for our guide, which was not yet come

out of the Havana to guide us through the Gulfe of _Bahama_. But that

night wee wished our selves againe in the Havana, thinking that we

were compassed about with a strong Fleet of _Hollanders_; many ships

came amongst us, which made us provide for a fight in the morning. A

Councell of War was called, and all that night watch was kept, the Guns

prepared, red Clothes hung round the ships, Orders sent about both to

the Galeons and to the Merchants ships what posture and place to bee

in. That which I was in, was to attend the Admirall, which I hoped

would bee a strong defence unto us; Our men were couragious and ready

to fight, though I liked not such Martiall business and discourse; but

for mee a place was prepared where I might lie hid, and be safe among

some barrels of bisket; I had all the night enough to doe, to heare

the confessions of those in the Ship, who thought they could not dye

happily with the shot of a _Holland_ Bullet, untill they had confessed

all their sinnes unto mee, who towards morning had more need of rest,

then of fighting, after the wearying of my eares with hearing so many

wicked, grievous and abominable sinnes. But the dawning of the day

discovered our causelesse feare; which was from friends, and not from

any enemies or _Hollanders_; for the ships which were joyned unto us

in the night were as fearefull of us, as we of them, and prepared

themselves likewise to fight in the morning, which shewed unto us

their colours, whereby wee knew that they were the Fleet which wee

expected from _Vera Cruz_ to goe along with us to _Spain_. They were

two and twenty Sail, which little thought to find us out of the Havana,

but within the Haven lying at Anchor, waiting for their comming, and

therefore in the night feared us much more then wee them. But when the

day cleared our doubts, feares and jealousies, then began the Martiall

colours to be taken down; the joyfull sound of Trumpets with the helpe

of Neptunes Kingdomes ecchoed from ship to ship, the boates carryed

welcoming messages from one to another, the _Spanish_ Brindis with

_buen Viaje, buen passaje_, was generally cried out, the whole morning

was spent in friendly acclamations and salutations from ship to ship.

But in the midst of this our joy, and Sea greetings, wee being now

in all two and fifty Saile, (yet wee not knowing well how many they

were from _Vera Cruz_, nor they how many wee were from the Havana) two

ships were found amongst us, whether _English_ or _Hollanders_ wee

could not well discover, but the _English_ Prisoners with mee told mee

they thought one was a ship of _England_ called the _Neptune_, which

having got the wind of us, singled out a ship of ours, which belonged

to _Dunkerk_, and from St. _Lucar_ or _Cales_ had beene forced to the

Kings service in that voyage to the _India's_, laden with sugars &

other rich commodities to the worth of at least fourscore thousand

Crowns; and suddainly giving her a whole broad side (receiving a reply

onely of two Guns) made her yeeld, without any hope of help from so

proud and mighty a Fleet, for that she was somewhat far straggled from

the rest of the ships. The whole businesse lasted not above half an

houre: but presently shee was carryed away from under our noses; the

_Spaniards_ changed their merry tunes into _voto a dios_ and _voto a

Christo_, in raging, cursing, & swearing, some reviling at the Captaine

of the ship which was taken, and saying that he was false & yeelded on

purpose without fighting, because he was forced to come that Voyage;

others cursing those that tooke her, and calling them _bijos de puta,

Borrachos, infames Ladrones_, Bastards, Drunkards, infamous theeves,

and Pyrates; some taking their swords in their hands, as if they would

there cut them in peeces, some laying hold of their Muskets as if they

would there shoot at them, others stamping like mad men, and running

about the ship, as if they would leap over board, and make haste after

them; others grinning their teeth at the poore _English_ prisoners

that were in the ship, as if they would stab them for what (they said)

their Country men had done. I must needs say, I had enough to doe to

hold some of those furious and raging brains from doing _Layfield_

some mischief, who more then the rest would bee smiling, arguing and

answering their outragious nonsense. Order was presently given to the

Vice-Admirall and two more Galeons to follow and pursue them; but all

in vaine, for the wind was against them, and so the two ships laughing

and rejoycing as much as the _Spaniards_ cursed and raged, sailed away

_con Viento en Popa_, with full Sail, gallantly boasting with so rich a

prize taken away from two and fifty ships, or (as I may say) from the

chiefest, and greatest strength of _Spain_.

That afternoone the Fleet of _Vera Cruz_, tooke their leave of us, (not

being furnished with Provision to goe on to _Spain_ with us,) and went

into the Havana; and we set forwards towards _Europe_, fearing nothing

for the present but the Gulfe of _Bahama_; through which wee got safely

with the help and guidance of such Pilots, which our Admirall _Don

Carlos_ had chosen, and hired for that purpose.

I shall not need to tell thee my Reader of the sight which wee had

of St _Augustine, Florida_, nor of many stormes which we suffered in

this Voyage, nor of the many degrees wee came under, which made us

shake with cold more then the Frost of _England_ doe in the worst of

winter; onely I say, that the best of our Pilots not knowing where

they were, had like to have betrayed us all to the Rocks of _Bermuda_

one night, had not the breaking of the day given us a faire warning

that we were running upon them. For which the _Spaniards_ in stead of

giving God thankes for their delivery out of that danger, began againe

to curse and rage against the _English_ which inhabited that Island,

saying, that they had inchanted that and the rest of those Islands

about, and did still with the devill raise stormes in those Seas when

the _Spanish_ Fleet passed that way. From thence when wee had safely

escaped, wee sailed well to the Islands called _Terceras_, where faine

wee would have taken in fresh water, (for that which we had taken in

at Havana now began to stink, and look yellow, making us stop our

noses, whilst wee opened our mouthes,) but rigid _Don Carlos_ would

not pity the rest of his Company, who led us by the Islands; and that

night following wee all wished our selves in some harbour of them;

for (though in their conceipt those Islands were not inchanted by

_English_ men, but inhabited by holy and Idolatrous Papists) wee were

no sooner got from them, when there arose the greatest storme that wee

had in all our voyage from _Havana_ to _Spain_, which lasted full eight

dayes, where wee lost one Ship and indangered two Galeons, which shot

off their warning peeces for helpe, and made us all stay and wait on

them, till they had repaired their Tacklings and maine Mast. We went

on sometimes one way, sometimes another, not well knowing where wee

were, drinking our stinking water by allowance of pints, till three or

foure dayes after the storme was ceased, wee discovered land, which

made all cry out, _Hispania, Hispania, Spain, Spain_; whilst a Counsell

was summoned by the Admirall to know what land that was, some sold

away barrels of bisket, others of water, to those that wanted (every

one thinking that it was some part of _Spain,_) but the result of the

wise Counsell was, after they had sailed neerer to the land, and had

layed and lost many wages about it, that it was the Island of _Madera_,

which made some curse the ignorance of the Pilots, and made us all

prepare our selves with patience for a longer voyage. It pleased God

from the discovery of this Island, to grant us a favourable wind to

_Spain_, where within twelve dayes we discovered _Cales_; and some of

the ships there left us, but most of them went forward to _San Lucar_,

as did the ship wherein I went; when wee came neere to the dangerous

place, which the _Spaniards_ call _La Barra_, wee durst not venture our

ships upon our Pilots own knowledge; but called for Pilots to guide us

in, who greedy of their lucre came out in boats almost for every ship

one. Upon the eight and twentyeth of _November_, 1637. we cast Anchor

within St. _Lucar de Barameda_ about one of the clock in the afternoon,

and before evening other passengers and my selfe went a shore (having

first been searched) and although I might presently have gone to

the Cloister of St. _Dominick_, where my old friend Fryer _Pablo de

Londres_ was yet living, whom I knew would bee glad of my coming from

the _India's_, yet I thought fit the first night to enjoy my friends

company both _Spaniards_ and _English_, (who had come so long a voyage

with me) in some Ordinary, and to take my rest better abroad then I

should doe in a Cloister, where I expected but a poore Fryers supper, a

hard and mean lodging, many foolish questions from old Fryer _Pablo de

Londres_ concerning the _India's_, and my abode there so many yeeres,

and finally the noise of Bells and ratlers to rouse up the drowsie

Fryers from their sleep to Matines at midnight. That night therefore I

betooke my selfe to an _English_ Ordinary, where I refreshed my selfe

and my poore prisoners, (who by the Master of the ship were committed

to my charge that night and forwards upon my word, so as to bee forth

comming when they should bee called) and the next morning I sent my

honest friend _Layfield_ with a letter to the Cloister to old _Pablo

de Londres_, who upon my summons came joyfully to welcome mee from the

_India's_, and after very little discourse told mee of ships in the

Haven ready to set out for _England_. The old Fryer being of a decrepit

and doting age, thought every day a yeere that I stayed there, and

suspended my Voyage for _England_, and (not knowing the secrets of my

heart) judged already that the Conversion or turning of many Protestant

soules to Popery waited for my comming, which made him hasten mee, who

was more desirous then hee to bee gone the next day, if I might have

found wind, weather, and shipping ready. But God, who had been with me

in almost ninety dayes sailing from _Havana_ to _San Lucar_, and had

delivered mee from many a storme, prepared and furthered all things in

a very short time for the last accomplishment of my hope and desire,

to returne to _England_ my native soil, from whence I had been absent

almost for the space of foure and twenty yeers.

My first thought here in St. _Lucar_, was to cast off now my Fryers

weed, that outward sheepskin, which covers many a wolvish, greedy,

and covetous heart under it; which doubtlesse is the ground, why in

_Germany_ in the Protestant and _Lutheran_ towns, when the boyes and

young men see a Fryer goe along their streets, they cry out to the

neighbours, saying, a Wolfe, a Wolfe, shut your doores; meaning, that

though what they weare seeme to bee _pellis ovina_, or _Agnina_, a

sheep or Lambeskin and their condition of mortified, humble, and meek

men, yet under it lyeth _cor Lupinum_, a Wolves heart, greedy of

some prey, either worldly, of wealth and riches, or spirituall, of

seducing, deceiving and misleading poore soules. Such was the habit,

which now I desired to shake off, which was a white Coat or gown

hanging to the ground girded about with a leathern belt, and over

it from the shoulders downward a white Scapulary (so called there,)

hanging shorter then the gown both before and behind, and over that a

white hood to cover the head, and lastly, over that a black cloak with

another black hood; both which together, the black and white make the

Fryers of that profession look just like Mag-pies, and is acknowledged

by the Church of _Rome_ it self in a verse which they faine of Mr.

_Martin Luther_, (with what just ground I know not) saying of his

former life and profession before his Conversion, _Bis Corvus, bis

Pica fui, ter fune ligatus_. I was twice a Crow, twice a Magpie, and

thrice was bound or tyed with a Cord; by a Crow meaning an Augustin

Fryer, who is all in black; by a Magpie, meaning a Dominican, and by

bound with a rope or cord, meaning a Franciscan, who indeed is girded

about with a cord made of hempe. Though the Dominican Magpie by this

his habit make such a glosse and understanding, which is contrary to

his life and conversation; for by his outward black habit, hee saith,

is signified an outward shew of deadnesse and Mortification to the

world, and by his inward white habit, an inward purity and chastity

of heart, thoughts and life; both which truely are little seen in

those Fryers especially, who outwardly are worldly, and living to the

world, covetous and ambitious of honours, preferments, Bishoprickes,

and places of publique reading and preaching; and therefore have by

favour obtained many places of authority, as by the laws of _Aragon_

to be the King of _Spain_ his Ghostly father, to bee Masters of the

Popes Palace, and there to read a lesson of Divinity, to be chief

heads of the Inquisition, and from these places to bee promoted to

sit in the Councell of the State in _Spain_, or to bee Cardinals in

_Rome_, and so Popes, or to injoy the richest and fattest Bishopricks

and Arch-Bishopricks in _Spain, Italy_, and _India's_, which sheweth

how little they are dead to the world, nay how they are living to the

world and its preferments, contrary to the black and dead colour of

their habits. So likewise doe they not live according to the whitenesse

of their inward habits, whose lives are found impure and unchast, as

I could exemplify at large, shewing what base and unclean acts have

been committed by some of that profession in the Low Countries, in

_Spain_, in the _India's_, in _Italy_, nay here in _England_ by one

_Dade_ the Superior of them, by one _Popham_ well knowen to bee a good

fellow, and still at this day abiding in the _Spanish_ house, by one

_Crafts_ and others, which would bee too too long a digression from the

whitenesse of their habit. But I applying the Allegory of this black

and white habit otherwise unto my selfe, and in the outward black part

of it seeing the foulenesse and filthinesse of my life and Idolatrous

Preisthood in the exercise of that profession, and Orders which from

_Rome_ I had received; and in the white inward habit considering yet

the purity, and integrity of those intentions and thoughts of my inward

heart, in pursuance whereof I had left what formerly I have noted, yea

all _America_, which, had I continued in it, might have been to mee a

Mine of wealth, riches and treasure; I resolved here therefore to cast

off that hypocriticall cloak and habit, and to put on such Apparell

whereby I might no more appeare a Wolfe in sheepskin, but might goe

boldly to my Country of _England_, there to shew and make known the

Candor of my heart, the purity and sincerity of my thoughts, which had

brought mee so farre, by a publik profession of the pure truths of the

Gospell, without any invention or addition of man unto it. With the

small meanes therefore which was left mee after so long and almost a

whole yeeres journey from _Petapa_ to St. _Lucar_ (having yet about a

hundred Crownes) I gave order for a sute of Cloathes to bee made by an

_English_ Taylor, which I willingly put on, and so prepared my self

for _England_. Three or four ships were in readinesse, who had onely

waited for the Fleet, to take in some Commodities, especially some

wedges of silver, of which I was with old _Pablo de Londres_, in doubt

which to choose. The first that went out was thought should have beene

my lot, in the which my friend _Layfield_ imbarked him selfe (for all

the _English_ prisoners were there freed to goe home to their Country)

and from which the great providence of God diverted mee, or else I had

beene this day with _Layfield_ a slave in _Turkey_; for the next day

after this ship set out, it was taken by the _Turkes_, and carryed

away for a rich prize, and all the _English_ in it for Prisoners to

_Argell_. But God (who I hope had reserved mee for better things,)

appointed for mee a safer convoy home in a ship (as I was informed)

belonging to Sir _William Curtin_, under the command of an honest

_Flemming_, named _Adrian Adrianzen_ living at _Dover_ then, with whom

I agreed for my passage and dyet at his Table. This ship set out of the

Barre of St. _Lucar_ the ninth day after my arrivall thither, where it

waited for the company of foure ships more, but especially for some

_Indian_ wedges of silver, which upon forfeiture of them it durst not

take in within the Barre and Haven.

And thus being now cloathed after a new fashion and ready to lead a

new life; being now changed from an _American_ into the fashion of

an _English_ man, the tenth day after my abode in _San Lucar_, I bad

adieu to _Spain_ and all _Spanish_ fashions, factions, and carriages,

I bad farewell my old Fryer _Pablo de Londres_, with the rest of my

acquaintance, and so in a boat went over the bar to the ship, which

that night in company of foure more set forward for _England_. I might

observe here many things of the goodnesse of _Adrian Adrianzen_, and

his good carriage towards mee in his ship, which I will omit, having

much more to observe of the goodnesse of God, who favoured this our

voyage with such a prosperous wind, and without any storm at all,

that in thirteen dayes wee came to _Dover_, where I landed, the ship

going on to the _Downes_. Others that landed at _Margaret_ were

brought to _Dover_, and there questioned and searched; but I, not

speaking _English_, but _Spanish_, was not at all suspected, neither

judged to be an _English_ man; and so after two dayes I tooke post in

company of some _Spaniards_ and an _Irish_ Colonel, for _Canterbury_,

and so forward to _Gravesend_. When I came to _London_, I was much

troubled within my selfe for want of my Mother tongue, (for I could

onely speak some few broken words) which made mee fearefull I should

not bee accknowledged to bee an _English_ man born. Yet I thought my

kinred (who knew I had beene many yeers lost) would some way or other

acknowledge mee, and take notice of mee, if at the first I addressed

my selfe unto some of them, untill I could better expresse my selfe

in _English_. The first therefore of my name, whom I had notice of,

was my Lady _Penelope Gage_, widow of Sir _John Gage_, then living in

St. _Jones_; to whom the next morning after my arrivall to _London_, I

addressed my selfe for the better discovery of some of my kinred; whom

though I knew to bee Papists, and therefore ought not to be acquainted

with my inward purpose and resolution; yet for feare of some want in

the mean time, and that I might by their means practice my selfe in

the use of my forgotten native tongue, and that I might enquire what

Childs part had beene left me by my father, that I might learn some

fashions, and lastly, that in the meane time, I might search into the

Religion of _England_, and find how farre my conscience could agree

with it, and bee satisfied in those scruples which had troubled mee

in _America_, for all these reasons I thought it not amisse to looke

and inquire after them. When therefore I came unto my Lady _Gage_,

shee beleeved mee to bee her kinsman, but laughed at mee, telling

mee, that I spake like an _Indian_ or _Welch_ man, and not like an

_English_ man; yet shee welcomed mee home, and sent mee with a servant

to a Brothers lodging in _Long Aker_, who being in the Country of

_Surrey_, and hearing of mee sent horse and man for mee to come to

keepe Christmas with an Uncle of mine living at _Gatton_; by whom as

a lost and forgotten Nephew, and now after foure and twenty yeeres

returned home againe, I was very kindly entertained, and from thence

sent for to _Cheam_, to one Mr. _Fromand_ another kinsman, with whom I

continued till after twelfth day, and so returned againe to _London_ to

my brother.

Thus my good Reader, thou seest an _American_, through many dangers

by Sea and Land, now safely arrived in _England_; and thou maiest

well with mee observe the great and infinite goodnesse and mercy of

God towards mee a wicked and wretched sinner. How I have answered to

this Gods gracious calling mee from so farre and remote a Country, to

doe him service here, I will shew thee in the Chapter following, and

conclude this my long and tedious History.

CHAP. XXII.

_Shewing how, and for what causes, after I had arrived in_ England, _I

tooke yet another Journey to_ Rome, _and other parts of_ Italy, _and

returned againe to settle my selfe in this my Country._

Now Reader, as the stone that is falling, the neerer it cometh to

its Center, more haste it maketh; So I the neerer I am coming to the

conclusion of this my History, more haste I desire to make in this

last Chapter, for the compleating and finishing of it. With brevity

therefore I will relate some of my travels in _Europe_, in which I

will yeeld to many of my Nation, but for _America_, and my travels and

experience there, I dare boldly challenge all travellers of my Country.

After my return to _London_, from _Surrey_, I began to expostulate

with my younger Brother (knowing hee had been present at my Fathers

death, and had a chief hand in the ordering and executing his last

Will and Testament,) concerning what childs part was left unto mee.

To which hee made mee answer, that my father had indeed left him, and

my Brother the Colonell, and two other sons by a second wife, and my

owne sister, every one somewhat, but to mee nothing, nay that at his

death he did not so much as remember mee; which I could not but take

to heart, and called to minde the angry and threatning letter which I

had received from him in _Spain_, because I would not bee a Jesuite.

Though for the present I said nothing, yet afterwards in many occasions

I told my Brother I would have the Will produced, and would by course

of law demand a childs part; but hee put me off, assuring me I should

never want amongst other my friends and kindred, with whom hee knew I

should bee well accommodated as long as I continued in _England_. After

few dayes that I had been in _London_, my kinsman at _Cheam_, desired

me to come to live with him; where I continued not long; for my Uncle

at _Gatton_ invited mee to his house, offering mee there meat, drink,

lodging, horse and man, with twenty pound a yeare, which hee promised

in other waies to make as good as thirty. Here I continued a twelve

moneth, refining my self in my native tongue, and (though altogether

unknown to my Uncle and kindred) searching into the Doctrine and truth

of the Gospel professed in _England_; for which cause I made many

journeys to _London_, and then privately I resorted to some churches,

and especially to _Pauls_ Church to see the service performed, and to

heare the Word of God Preached; but so, that I might not be seen, known

or discovered by any Papist. When in _Pauls_ Church I heard the Organs,

and the Musick, and the Prayers and Collects, and saw the Ceremonies at

the Altar, I remembred _Rome_ againe, and perceived little difference

between the two Churches. I searched further into the Common-Prayer,

and carryed with me a Bible into the Country on purpose to compare the

Prayers, Epistles, and Gospels with a Masse Book, which there I had at

command, and I found no difference but onely English and Latin, which

made mee wonder, and to acknowledge that much remained still of _Rome_

in the Church of _England_, and that I feared my calling was not right.

In these my scruples coming often to _London_, and conversing with one

_Dade, Popham_, and _Crafts, Connel_ and _Brown, English_ and _Irish_

Dominican Fryers, I found their wayes and conversations base, lewd,

light and wanton, like the _Spanish_ and _Indian_ Fryers, which made me

againe reflect upon the Popish Church, upheld by such Pillars. I came

yet to the acquaintance of one _Price_, Superiour to the Benedictine

Monkes, whom I found to be a meer States-man, and a great Politician,

and very familiar, private, and secret with the Archbishop of

_Canterbury William Laud_; in conversion with my Brother, (who belonged

then unto one Signior _Con_, the Popes Agent, and was in such favour

at the Court, that hee was sent over by the Queen with a rich present

to a Popish Idol, named our Lady of _Sichem_, in the _Low Countries_)

I heard him sometimes say, that hee doubted not but to bee shortly

Curate and Parish Preist of _Coven Garden_, sometimes that he hoped to

bee made Bishop in _England_, and that then I should want for nothing,

and should live with him, till hee got mee another Bishoprick; by which

discourse of his, and by his and other Preists favour at Court and

with the Archbishop I perceived things went not well, _Spanish_ Popery

was much rooted, Protestant Religion much corrupted, and the time not

seasonable for me to discover my secret intents and purpose or heart.

At this time comming once from _Surrey_ to _London_, I chanced to bee

discovered and knowne to one of the State Officers, a Pursevant, who

had a large Commission for the apprehending of Seminary Preists and

Jesuites, named _John Gray_, who meeting mee one day in _Long Aker_,

followed and dogged me as far as _Lincolns Inne_ wall, where he clapped

mee on the shoulders, and told me, that he had a Commission against

mee, to apprehend mee, and carry me to the Councell Table or to one

of His Majesties Secretaries. To whom I spoke in _Spanish_ (thinking

thereby to free my selfe out of his hands for a _Spaniard_:) but this

would not doe, for he replyed hee knew mee to bee an _English_ man

born, and by the name of _Gage_, and Brother to Colonel _Gage_ and Mr.

_George Gage_, and that before he left mee I must speake in _English_

to him, he carryed mee to a Tavern, and there searched my Pockets for

Letters and mony, which in discourse he told me was too little for

him (not being above twelve shilling) and that I must goe with him

to answer before one of His Majesties Secretaries. I told him that I

would willingly goe before the Archbishop of _Canterbury_, or before

Sir _Francis Windebanke_; at which he smiled, saying: I knew well whom

to make choice of to favour and protect mee, but hee would carry mee

to none of them, but to Secretary _Cooke_. I fearing the businesse

might goe hard with me, and knowing him to be greedy of money, told him

that I would give him any thing that might content him, and so offered

him twelve shillings then about mee, and my word to meet him in any

place the next day, with a better and fuller purse. Hee accepted of my

money for the present, and further offer for the day following, and

appointed the _Angel_ Taverne in _Long Aker_, (knowing that I lodged

thereabout) to bee the place of our meeting, and so dismissed mee. I

being free from him, went immediately to my Brother, and told him what

had happened unto mee, what money I had already given unto him, and

what I had promised the next day following. My Brother hearing me began

to chafe and vex, and to fall into furious words against _John Gray_,

calling him knave and rogue, and that he could not answer what he had

done, and that hee would have his Commission taken from him, chiding

mee for that I had given him any money, and calling me young novice

and unexperienced in the affairs of _England_. This seemed strange to

me, that my Brother should not onely not fear a Pursevant, but should

threaten to take away the Commission from him, who was appointed to

search for and finde out Preists and Jesuites. Yet I told him I would

according to my word and promise meet him the next day, and satisfie

him for his faire carriage towards mee; to which my Brother would by

no means yeeld, but said hee would meet him; which hee accordingly

performed, and although for my sake and promise he gave him some money,

yet he brought him before Signor _Con_, and there himselfe and the

Popes Agent with him spake most bitter words unto him, and threatned

him very much if ever again he durst meddle with mee.

After this my Brother carryed mee to one Sir _William Howard_ a Papist

Knight, living at _Arundel_ gate over _Clements_ Church, who was very

familiar with Sir _Francis Windebanke_, telling him what had happened

unto me, and desiring him to carry me with him in his Coach to Sir

_Francis_, and to get his protection for mee. Secretary _Windebanke_

understanding who I was, told mee I should feare no Pursevant of them

all, and that if I lived quietly in _England_, no body should trouble

me, and that _John Gray_ was a knave, and wished me if ever he medled

with me again to come unto him. Though for the present this was good

and commodious for me to have such favour and protection, yet I

perceived, this my Brothers power, and this conniving at Preists and

Jesuites could not bee usefull for mee, if I should publish my mind and

and purpose to alter my Religion. I was therefore much troubled in mind

and conscience, which I found was curbed with the great power of the

Papists. I resolved therefore to goe againe out of _England_, and to

travell in some other Countries amongst both Papists and Protestants,

and to try what better satisfaction I could find for my conscience

at _Rome_ in that Religion, or in _France_ and _Germany_ amongst the

Protestants. I writ therefore to the Generall of the Dominicans at

_Rome_, (without whose License I could not goe thither) that hee would

bee pleased to send mee his Letters Patents, to goe to conferre some

points with him; which hee willingly granted unto mee. I wanted not

money from my Uncle (who commended unto mee some businesse to bee

dispatched for him at _Rome_) for so long a journey, other friends also

helped mee; but my chief trust was upon my Brother Colonell _Gage_,

then in the _Low Countries_, whom I knew not, nor had seen him from a

child. I had no other passe to take shipping at _Dover_, but onely the

letter of a Papist in _London_, (by meanes of one _Popham_ a Dominican

Fryer) to Sir _John Manwood_ his Lady, who was then Governour of

_Dover_ Castle, and with the foresaid letter suffered mee not to bee

troubled, examined or searched, but gave order that I should freely

and quietly passe over in the Packet boat to _Dunkerke_, wherewith in

foure houres with a good wind I arrived, and from thence by _Newport_

and _Bridges_ went to _Gant_; not farre from whence my Brother with

his Regiment lay in field against the _Hollander_. Hee was glad to see

mee, and knowing what journey I was minded to take, furnished mee with

more money, and for my Uncles businesse recommended mee to the Marques

_De Serralvo_ (then at _Brussels_) and to other great men, desiring

them to give mee their letters to their friends at _Rome_; from them I

got a letter to _Don Francisco Barbarini_, the Popes Nephew, and one

of the chief Cardinals then in _Rome_, likewise to Cardinal _Cucua_,

and Cardinal _Albornos_ both _Spaniards_. With these letters I thought

I should have occasion of some conversation with these pillars of the

Church of _Rome_, and in discourse might pry into the hearts and wayes

of them, and see whether in them were more Policy then Religion. By

reason of the Warres between _France_ and the _Low Countries_, I durst

not make my journey the neerest and shortest way through _France_; but

though there were Wars also in _Germany_, I thought that would bee

my safest way, and I desired much to looke into the Protestant, and

_Lutheran_ Church in that Country. Whereupon I resolved from _Brussels_

to goe to _Namurs_, and from thence by water to _Leidge_, and from

thence to _Collen_ in _Germany_. From _Leidge_ to _Collen_ though wee

were twelve in company, wee were much troubled with Souldiers; yet God

still delivered me and brought me safe to _Collen_; from whence by the

river _Rhine_ I went in boat to _Frankefort_ in _September_ at the time

of that great Fair, where I knew I should meet company of Merchants to

any part of _Italy_. In all my travells I never made a more pleasant

journey then that which I made by the river _Rhine_, where I had

occasion to see many fair and goodly Cities. In _Frankefort_ there I

began to take notice of the _Lutheran_ Church, and for the space of

a fortnight that I stayed there, had many thoughts of discovering my

selfe there, and disclaiming Popery, thinking that there I might be

sure and safe, and lie hid and unknowne to my Brothers and kinred, who

is _England_ would not suffer me to live a Protestant. Yet againe I

considered how hard it would bee for mee a stranger to subsist there,

and to get any livelyhood, for the which I must first get the native

tongue, and though many points that were opposite to the Church of

_Rome_, pleased me, yet in some points of that Religion my conscience

was not satisfied. At the end of the Faire I sought out for company,

and found neere a dozen wagons which were upon setting out towards

_Auspurg_ with goods of Merchants, who had also hired a Convoy of

thirty souldiers to goe along with them; which I thought would be safe

company for mee; with them, and many other passengers and travellers

that went in the Wagons, and on foot, by them, I went as far as the

famous and gallant City of _Auspurg_; from whence forward there was no

great danger, neither in what part belonged to the Duke of _Bavaria_,

nor in the County of _Tirol_: from whence wee passed some foure

together to _Trent_; where I was taken with the first Ague that ever

in my life I remembred I had, which continued seven months upon mee. I

thought from thence to have continued my journey by land to _Venice_,

but my Ague suffered mee to goe but to _Verona_; from whence I turned

to _Millan_, and so to _Genoua_, leaving my good company; that from

_Genoua_ I might goe by Sea to _Ligorne_, and so likewise to _Rome_.

After a fortnights stay in _Genoua_, I went with the Galleys of the

great Duke of _Florence_ to _Ligorne_, where I found no boats ready to

_Rome_, and so in the meantime, whilst they were preparing, I went to

_Pisa_ and _Florence_ to see those brave Cities, and returned again to

_Ligorne_, where I found many boats ready to set out to _Rome_.