importance is Genni or Jinnee, which is bounded north by Gualata, south
by Melle, and east by Timbuctoo. The length, he says, is 500 Arabic
miles, and its extent 250 miles along the Niger, bordering upon the
_Ocean Sea, in the same place where the Niger falleth into the said
sea_. This region, during July, August, and September, is yearly
environed with the overflowings of the Niger in manner of an island, all
which time the merchants of Timbuctoo convey their merchandise hither in
certain canoes or narrow boats, made of one tree, which they row all day
long, but at night they bind to the shore and lodge themselves upon the
land. This country was once subject to the Lybians, (Gualata) afterwards
it was tributary to King Soni Heli, (Morocco,) and next to Izchia, King
of Timbuctoo.” (_Purchas_, vol. ii. p. 827.) Either Leo or his
translator here confounds two things which are radically distinct[5].
The kingdom of Jinnee or Genni is totally different from the country
named, (at least in its extended and general meaning,) Gheneoa,
Ghenehoa, Genowa, Genawa, or Djenawa, which signifies Guinea, in its
most extended meaning. The kingdom of Genni does extend along the Niger,
and perhaps from it the whole country southward might derive the general
name of Genowa or Djenawa. The kingdom of Jinnee, however, in its
restricted and proper sense, does not border upon the _Ocean Sea_,
(Atlantic) but upon Lake Dibbie, whereas Gheneoa or Genawa, (Guinea)
does border upon the _Ocean Sea_, and “in the same place where the Niger
entereth that sea.” De Bry, in his Hist. Ind. Orient. states upon the
authority of the early European navigators, that “Benni, or Benin, is
esteemed to be part of the Gold Coast and Guinea,” (_Purchas_, vol. ii.
p. 965.) The words “Ocean Sea,” invariably mean the Atlantic Ocean, and
are never applied by the Arabs to designate a lake, though the word
“sea” frequently is. El Hagi Shabeeny establishes the fact that Genawa
and Guinea, are the same, when he relates “that fish oil, a great
article of trade, is brought from the neighbourhood of the sea, by
Genawa to Houssa and Timbuctoo; _dearer at Timbuctoo than at Houssa, and
dearer at Houssa than at Genawa_.” (_Jackson’s Shabeeny_, p. 28.): thus
clearly pointing out the quarter and the course of this trade. The
length also of Gheneoa, as recorded by Leo, viz. 500 Arabic miles (625
British) from north to south, would point out, that this country and the
kingdom of Jinnee were different, for that distance would extend from
Lake Dibbie almost to the mouth of the Rio Lagos.
Timbuctoo, according to Leo, was situated _on a branch of the Niger_,
and was founded in the year of the Hegira 610 (A.D. 1232.) In his days
Timbuctoo had subjected to its authority all the neighbouring states,
viz. Jinnee, Melli, Cassina, Gago, Guber, &c. Kabra, a large town on the
Niger, and the port of that city, was distant from it about 12 Arabic
(14½ British) miles. Here the negroes resorted in great numbers from all
quarters, and embarking with their merchandise, sailed westward to
Jinnee and Melli. Timbuctoo was then, and has ever since, been the great
emporium of the trade of Central Africa. The inhabitants were
represented as wealthy and industrious, particularly while they were
subject to Morocco.
The great city and powerful kingdom of Gago was situated (the capital)
about 400 Arabic miles distant from Timbuctoo, a little to the southward
of east. The merchants were exceeding rich, and every thing was
abundant. The country abounded with corn and cattle, but fruits and wine
were scarce. The position of Gago by this reckoning would be in about
10° or 10° 30′ N. Lat. and from 4° to 5° E. Long.[6] South of Gago also,
according to other authorities, lay the once powerful kingdom of Eyeo,
or Haiho or Hio, which once commanded Dahomy. Dalzel supposes that Eyeo
and Gago were the same. According to Bowditch, Hio lies in about 8½° N.
Lat. and 4½° E. Long. The people of Acca, or Akim, on the coast of
Guinea, carried on a great trade to Tonowah, Gago, and Meczara, and the
frontiers of Acca extended north to those of Tonowah. (_Leyden’s_
Africa.) From the Report of Sir George Collier, printed by order of the
House of Commons in June 1820, we learn that Dahomy at this day carries
on a great trade with Gago. The territories of this kingdom in early
times, no doubt, were of considerable extent, and comprehended several
adjoining kingdoms and states, which are now become independent or
subject to other powerful neighbours, such as Dahomy. Gago, in the days
of Leo, who visited it, was bounded on the west by Melli and on the east
by Guber.
Eastward of Gago lay the kingdom of Guber, 300 Arabic (370 British)
miles distant from the former capital. “Between the two kingdoms lay a
vast desert, much destitute of water, for it is distant from the Niger
40 miles. Guber is environed with high mountains, and containeth many
villages, peopled with shepherds. There is abundance of cattle, great
and small. The capital contained 6000 families, amongst whom were all
kinds of merchants. At the inundation of the Niger all the fields in
this region are overflowed, and then the inhabitants cast their seed
into the water only.” (_Purchas_, vol. ii. p. 829.) The position of
Guber, we are enabled to fix with considerable precision. According to
Bowditch, p. 211, Guber, or Goobur, is 10 days journey from the Niger
through the territories of Yaoora, and, skirting the eastern limits of
the kingdom of Zamfra or Zamfara, and in the direct road from Yaoora to
Cashna. From Goobur to the latter place is a journey of eight days, and
“_across a great river_.” From the accounts which Mr. Ritchie obtained
at Mourzook, Guber was the first place in the road from Cashna to
Timbuctoo, and Zamfra the next. (_Quarterly Review_, May, 1820.) These
accounts correspond very exactly with Leo, and shew that Guber, a
country environed with hills, is situated near the eastern river or the
Gir, for on a river it is situated, being inundated completely during
the floods. Leo has, in this instance, mistaken the one river for the
other; but which, the authority of Bowditch and Ritchie enables us to
correct. By looking at the map, and attending to the future narrative,
we will perceive, that a _desert_, or bare mountainous district, does,
according to Leo, lie westward of the Niger, and in the direction of
Gago.
The great province of Cano, certainly the once famous empire of Ghana,
is, according to Leo, “500 _miles eastward of the river Niger_. Here is
abundance of corn, rice, and cotton; the inhabitants are partly
herdsmen, and partly husbandmen. Here are also many deserts and _wild
woody mountains_, containing many springs of water. In the woods are
plenty of wild citrons and lemons. In the midst of the province is the
capital of the same name. The walls and houses are built of chalk. The
inhabitants are a _civil people_, and rich merchants. The king _was
formerly of great puissance_, and had mighty troops of horsemen at his
command.” In the days of Leo, it paid tribute to Izchia (Timbuctoo.
_Purchas_, vol. ii. p. 829.) Speaking of Ghana, Edrisi, says, “that the
palace was founded in 510 (A.D. 1132.) No other king has so many
captains, who, every morning, come to his house _on horseback_. He has
abundance of rich ornaments and horses. He has many troops, who march
each with their colours under his royal banner, &c. In Ghana are two
cities, situated on the two opposite shores of what they called a fresh
water sea; and it is the largest, most populous, and wealthiest, in all
the negro countries.” There is no difficulty in recognizing, in the Cano
of Leo, the Ghana of Edrisi. Four hundred years, however, had greatly
changed its fortunes and splendour. The distance of Cano from the Niger,
as placed by Leo, is, perhaps, too much; yet, if he calculates the
distance actually travelled, his error cannot be great. According to
Bowditch, p. 212, Kano is in the direct road from Yaoora to Bornou, and
28 days journey from the former. Bornou, he says, is 52 days journey
from Yaoora. From the accounts which Mr. Ritchie received, Cano is 12
days journey west from Bornou, (the capital,) and situated upon the
great river, which passes half a day’s journey south of the latter. This
river is called Tshadi. (_Quarterly Review_, May, 1820.) From this
account, Cano would be 40 journeys (Bowditch makes it only 28) from the
Niger, which, at 14 miles per day, is 560 geographical miles,
corresponding very accurately with the distance as given by Leo in
Arabic miles.
The great point established by these authorities, is the existence of
Cano or Ghanah upon a great river, _but not upon the Niger_, and the
_wild woody mountains_, with many springs of water, with the abundance
of corn, rice, and cotton, herdsmen, and husbandmen, all shew a country
very different from what has been supposed, and one where rivers must
increase, not decrease.
Cassena, or Kashna, according to Leo, is full of mountains and dry
fields, which, notwithstanding, yield great store of barley and mill-
seed (supposed Indian and Guinea corn.) The inhabitants, when he visited
it, were rude, and dwelt in forlorn cottages. By a mistake, Cassena is
placed east of Cano. This, however, is not the fact. Bowditch, Ritchie,
and various other authorities, shew it is west of Cano. Lucas places it
about five days journey north from the great river, and in this Bowditch
nearly agrees; but from the accounts obtained by Ritchie, Kashna was
upon a river, there named Gulbe, and as broad as from the gate of
Tripoli to the Bazaar in the sands, or _one-third of a mile_.
(_Quarterly Review_, May, 1820.) Perhaps this may be a tributary stream,
descending from the northward, and the mountains about to be mentioned.
Agadez is enumerated as a kingdom by Leo, but it is so well known, that
we shall pass it over in this place. The southern parts were inhabited
by shepherds and herdsmen. Agadez was said to be distant from Cano about
160 leagues. The kingdom of Zegzeg, mentioned by Leo, is about 150 miles
from Cassena, and its south-east parts border upon Cano. The inhabitants
are rich, and have great traffic into other nations. Their houses are
built like the houses of Cassena. The fields abound with water, and are
exceedingly fruitful. Some parts of the country are plain and some
mountainous. _The mountains are exceedingly cold_, but the plains are
intolerably hot. Because they can hardly endure the sharpness of the
winter, they kindle great fires in the midst of their houses, laying the
coals thereof under their high bed-steads, and so betake themselves to
sleep.” (_Purchas_, vol. ii. p. 830.) This country appears to be
situated in about 19° or 20° of north latitude, and corresponds very
nearly with the position of the Usurgala mountains of Ptolemy. The
excessive degree of cold shews the great height of the mountains, and
lays before us these interior parts of Africa, under very different
features indeed to those we have been called upon to behold. From these
mountains numerous and powerful streams certainly flow, and must take
their course southward. Accordingly, in the maps by Ortelius in 1570,
and others of a latter date, various rivers are represented as
descending in this direction, and forming a junction with the Niger.
From the accounts obtained by Ritchie, Zegzeg lay in the road from
Kashna to Timbuctoo, and west of Nyffe. (_Quarterly Review_, May, 1820.)
If so, then it is several degrees farther to the southward, and, from
the degree of cold mentioned, the height of the mountains must be still
greater. Though the boundaries mentioned by Leo are not sufficiently
clear, yet, being in this instance supported by other authorities, the
position given is, perhaps, the safest to rely on. Yet, if Leo is
correct, that Zegzeg touches southward upon Zamfra, it must be more
southerly than the Usurgala mountains of Ptolemy. According to Ledyard,
Zamfra lay to the east of Kashna. From Bowditch, page 211, it would
appear to lie S.W. of Kassena; and Leo says Zamfra borders eastward upon
Zezgeg; in which case, the position as given to Ritchie, would appear to
be the most correct. Amongst such conflicting testimony it is difficult
to be perfectly accurate. Zamfra was, in the days of Leo, inhabited by a
rustical people, subject to Timbuctoo. Their fields abounded with rice,
millet, and cotton.
The kingdom of Guangara, according to Leo, adjoineth south-westerly upon
Zamfra, and eastward it had the kingdom of Bornou. From Bowditch, p.
212, we find that this is the case; for there seems no reason to doubt
that Oongooroo is the Guangara of Leo. South of this country lay a
region greatly abounding in gold. From the accounts given by Leo of
their mode of travelling thither, and mules being the chief beasts of
burthen, it is evident that the country was exceedingly mountainous and
rugged. Guangara, there is the best reason to believe, is the Vancara of
the early Arabian geographers. This country, according to Edrisi, was
“famous for the excellency and abundance of its gold,” and, according to
Ibn-al-Vardi, it was “the country of gold and aromatics.” The Nile
surrounded it on three sides, and, after the inundation subsided, the
gold was found in abundance. They called it an island, and said it was
300 miles in length, and 150 miles in breadth.
The large province of Bornou, according to Leo, extended eastward from
Guangara 500 miles, till it reached the limits of Gaogo. It (that is
Bornou) is distant, says he, from the fountain (lake) of Niger almost
150 miles. This distance agrees very nearly with the Lake Caudee, or
Fittre. The south part adjoineth the Desert of Seu, and the north part
stretcheth to that Desert which extends toward Barca. The monarch was
very powerful, and had frequent wars with a powerful people south of the
Desert of Seu. The position of Bornou, as here given, is we know
sufficiently accurate. Leo clearly brings the river, which passes
through it from the eastward, and from the Lake Fittre. Beyond that he
had no accurate idea of the Misselad to the S.E. though he states it was
reported that the Niger really rose in the Desert of Seu, (that is S.E.
of Lake Fittre,) while others said that it was derived from Nilus,
which, after disappearing for a space, at last burst up in the Lake
mentioned. From the accounts received by Ritchie, we learn that the
capital of Bornou is half a day’s journey north of the great river. The
port of the city is called Gambarou, where there are the remains of
castles and houses formerly inhabited by Christians, (_Quart. Rev._ May,
1820,) the refugees, no doubt, who sought shelter in the interior of
Africa from the fury of the early Mahommedan conquerors.
Gaogo and Nubia are the next kingdoms enumerated by Leo. But, regarding
these, nothing remarkable is stated, and it is sufficient here to state,
that in those parallels of latitude, they extended from the confines of
Bornou to the Nile. All these kingdoms Leo visited, and, in the features
of the country, manners and customs of the inhabitants, and in the trade
and productions of each of them, he could not be mistaken. Therefore his
information is valuable; and we shall see, as we proceed, that modern
authority bears him out in most of his leading facts.
One thing is plain, from the consideration of all these ancient
authorities, that the interior of Northern Africa is traversed by many
mighty rivers, and is also filled with stupendous mountains. Every one
of these authorities also agree in the westerly course of the rivers
which rise westward of Darfur, and that the great stream which absorbs
the whole of them is a distinct river from the Egyptian Nile.
Their confusion regarding the Gir and the Niger being the same, or one
stream, we can clear up and account for. For these reasons I have dwelt
upon this part of my subject longer than was at first intended. In his
account of the great natural features of a country, such as rivers,
mountains, lakes, inundated roads, or dry deserts, an Arab cannot be
mistaken, and his authority is a guide sufficiently safe. In his names
of places, in his bearings and distances, it is very different, and it
is there that in following him great caution is necessary. These
distances and bearings are, and become so different,—as their journeys
are undertaken by the slow, unwieldy caravan, the saint begging his way
on foot, the single unencumbered traveller, the messenger urging his way
on horseback, or the Moor or Arab mounted on his camel or fleet
dromedary—these are so different, that unless each mode is specifically
mentioned, there is no possibility of approximating the truth but by a
careful attention to, and comparing a variety of them with each other.
The distance also from place to place is frequently calculated from
capital to capital, sometimes from the capital of one state to the
confines of another; sometimes the name of the capital is placed for the
name of the kingdom, and the name of the kingdom for the name of the
capital; and sometimes both or either are named after some particular
thing for which they may have become famous. The name of a river is also
frequently substituted for a country, and the name of a country for a
river in it. Without being able to determine the distances accurately,
it is consequently impossible to fix the bearings correctly, even where
these are faithfully taken, which, however, are very seldom found to be
the case, particularly when not upon any one of the four chief points of
the compass.
These things, together with the ignorance of the Arabic and Negro
languages amongst those who have hitherto attempted to explore, or
endeavoured to obtain information concerning Northern Africa, have been
the sole cause why the geography of the interior has remained so long a
mystery. As those are understood, however, the other is elucidated, and
as those are rendered clear, the geography of Africa, like the geography
of every other quarter of the globe, appears simple and natural. Thus,
for instance, Belad-el-Sudan signifies all Africa south of the Great
Desert inhabited by negroes, and, therefore, the _Sea of Sudan_ can be
no other than that sea on its southern shores, or the great Gulph of
Guinea. Bahr-el-Gazalle is not a river, but a fine valley adapted to
pasturage. Houssa, according to Horneman, is not a name applied to a
particular district, but a great portion of Africa north of the Niger,
comprehending many kingdoms and states. Wangara, there is good reason to
believe, besides being the name of a province, is also a term applied to
all Africa south of the Niger, if not also the countries between it and
the great Desert; in short, of all the country through which rivers
flow, in contra-distinction to the Zahaara or Great Desert. Such was the
explanation given to Mr. Hutchison, (_see Bowditch, p._ 206,) and such
the accounts given to Mr. Ritchie, (_Quart. Rev._ May, 1820,) as well as
other authorities. Dar Kulla, or rather Deaar Kulla, signifies a country
full of houses, (_Jackson’s Shabeeny_, p. 479.) and the same authority,
pages 444 and 487, informs us, that Bahar Kulla, or Bahar Kulha,
signifies the sea altogether, or an alluvial country.
In like manner, all the names applied to the river we call the Niger,
are used to distinguish it from the Nile of Egypt. The latter is
invariably called the “Neel Shem,” or the “Neel Masser,” while the Niger
is termed “Neel-el-Abeed,” (Nile of Slaves,) “Neel Assudan,” (Nile of
Sudan,) and “Neel-el-Kabeer,” or great Nile. (_Jackson’s Shabeeny, p._
443, and _Transactions of African Association_, p. 222.) Regarding the
different seas which surround Africa, the Western Ocean is called Bahar
Kabeer, or Bahar Addolum, the Great Sea, or the Sea of Darkness. The
term _Bahar el Mâleh_, is applied generally to a salt sea; but the term,
says Mr. Jackson, and only term applied by the Moors to the
Mediterranean Sea, is the “_Bahar Segrer_,” literally the Small Sea,
(_Jackson’s Shabeeny_, p. 489.)
Bearing these things in mind, we shall, without much difficulty, clear
up many points apparently very confused in African geography. That the
Niger enters the Atlantic Ocean we have many direct testimonies.
Although Ptolemy was unacquainted with the outlets of the river, he
evidently believed that it had one in that direction. Edrisi and Ibn-al-
Vardi distinctly state that such is the case; and unless the
transcriber, or translators of Leo, have supplied a word which he never
wrote, namely, the “Ocean _Sea_,” that celebrated traveller, who made
very diligent inquiries of the merchants who came to Timbuctoo from
those coasts, states the same thing. Mr. Horneman was very pointedly
informed that the Niger ran southward of Nyffe till it joined the Bahar
Kulla, or Bahar Kulha, and Park was told the same thing. Windhus was
informed at Morocco, in 1721, that “the Niger, or Black’s River, _had a
passage into the Southern Sea_.” According to the Report of the
Committee of Council, Mr. Barnes states, that “the Niger discharges
itself into a large lake; that he has heard from the black traders that
there are white inhabitants on the borders of that lake—that they dress
in the style of the Barbary Moors, and wear turbans, but do not speak
Arabic.” There is scarcely any room to doubt that this alludes to the
Portuguese, and other European settlements on the coast of Guinea
towards Benin.
Besides these authorities, El Hage Shabeeny says most pointedly, that he
“always understood the Niger run into the sea, _the Salt Sea, or Great
Ocean_,” on the coast of Genawa, or Guinea. (_Jackson’s Shabeeny_, p.
40.) Mr. Beaufoy was informed by an intelligent Moor, that “below
Ghinea, (that is Genawa, Djenawa, or Guinea,) is the sea into which the
river of Timbuctoo disembogues itself, and that boats _went with the
stream to_ Ghinea.” Mr. Grey Jackson, who had received much information
concerning the interior of Africa, states, that it is “_the general
African opinion_, that the Neel-el-Abeed (Niger) discharges itself into
the Salt Sea,” (Bahar el Mâleh,) which he clearly and unequivocally
shews is a different sea from the Mediterranean. (_Jackson’s Shabeeny_,
p. 518 and 489.) The Moors told Bowditch and Hutchison at Coomassie,
that the Niger ran into the Bahar le Malee, or Baramela, (page 205,
_Bowditch_,) which Mr. Jackson, page 489, clearly shews is a corruption
of the Arabic words Bahar el Mâleh, or the Salt Sea. By reports
collected for the African Association, from 1790 to 1798, they were told
that “the Niger was lost in the sands to the south of Timbuctoo,” which
could only mean the sea-shore on the Bight of Benin. The natives on the
coasts of Benin and Biafra, assert that all the rivers in the Delta come
from one great river which descends from the north. (_Robertson’s
Notes_, and other authorities.) As these sheets were preparing for the
press, a further confirmation of this important point was received in
the account given by a sailor named Scot, belonging to Liverpool, who
was wrecked about Cape Nun, and carried into slavery by the Arabs of the
Desert. While in this state, he was carried, along with a tribe, across
the Desert into Sudan, and with them he crossed Lake Dibbie, or what he
calls “Bahar Tee-eb,” the sea of fresh water, or the sea where boats can
go. There he was told by some negro boatmen who rowed them over the
Lake, that, _very far to the south there “lay a great salt water sea;
that the one they were on run into it;_ that there was no end to it;
that there were plenty of _Saffina el kabeer_ (large ships,) upon it,
and that they called it _Bahar el Kabeer_,” that is, the great sea.
(_Edin. Philosoph. Journ._ No. 7.) As we proceed, other authorities will
be adduced.
With these general observations, I shall proceed without further remark
to the chief object in view, namely, to trace the course, and to point
out the termination of the Niger and its tributary streams. In following
out this subject I shall endeavour to be as concise as possible. The
best authorities also are taken as my guide. “The Niger,” said Park in
the last dispatch that he wrote which has reached Britain, “can
terminate no where else but in the sea.” In this he was correct. In the
sea it must and does terminate.
CHAP. II.
_Joliba, two branches, source western, ditto eastern — River Zamma;
course till junction — Snowy mountains — Balia — Lake Clonia — River
Guinola — Kaniaba — Bammakoo, Magnitude of Niger — Rapids — Marraboo —
Yamina — Sego — Jinnë — Ba Nimma — Ba Maniana — Lake Dibbie — River
Gozen Zair — High Mountains — Walet — Course of Niger north-east — Ba
Moriaca — Jinbala — Rakbara — Kabra — Timbuctoo — Bahar-el-Ahmar —
Course of ditto — Houssa — Magnitude of Niger at Timbuctoo — Sidi Hamed
— Course of river south-east — Mountains — Kaffo — Rocks — River bursts
through a chain of mountains — Exceeding high ridge to south-west —
Cabi, a Ferry — Yaoora — Great River from east may join here — Boussa —
Park’s death — Cause of it — Wauwa — Gange — Nyffe — Wassanah —
Magnitude of Wassanah — Magnitude of Niger or Zadi — Course to “Great
Water” — Junction with the Sea, and where — General observations._