Lieutenant Watts's Narrative of the Return of the Lady Penrhyn Transport;
containing an Account of the Death of Omai, and other interesting
Particulars at Otaheite.
5 May 1788-17 May 1788
The Lady Penrhyn, Capt. Sever, left Port Jackson on the 5th of May, 1788.
In the evening of the 7th, imagining they saw a fire on shore, they
sounded, but found no bottom with ninety fathoms of line. By their
observation at noon, on the 9th, they found a current had set the vessel
eighty miles to the southward since their leaving Port Jackson. The
scurvy began already to make its appearance amongst them; one man was
rendered unfit for duty, and several others complained very much. The
weather in general was squally, with thunder, lightning, and rain. In the
morning of the 14th they saw an island bearing north-east, half north, 18
or 20 leagues distant, which made in two detached hummocks: At seven in
the afternoon, the island seen in the morning was about nine leagues
distant, on which they brought to for the night, and next morning made
sail and stood for it. At noon they spoke to the Supply, Lieutenant Ball,
who informed them that this island is named Lord Howe's Island. During
the afternoon and night they stood off and on, and at nine o'clock the
next morning a boat was hoisted out, and Lieutenant Watts with a party
went on shore in search of turtle, but they could distinguish no traces
of any, though the different bays were very closely explored: about noon,
Mr. Watts returned on board. This disappointment did not deter them from
making another effort, as some turtle would have been a very valuable
acquisition: accordingly Mr. Anstis went with a party in the pinnace to
try his success in the night. About noon the next day Mr. Anstis returned
without having seen one turtle, but to make some amends, the party had
met with great success in fishing, having caught a sufficient quantity to
serve the ship's company three or four days.
Lord Howe's Island was discovered by Lieutenant Ball on his passage to
Norfolk Island in the month of February, and on his return he stopt and
surveyed it; at that time he caught a quantity of fine green turtles, of
which there were great numbers: this induced Governor Phillip to send the
Supply a second time to this island, but she then was unsuccessful, the
weather probably being so cold as to occasion the turtle to remove to the
northward. The island is about two leagues in extent, and lies in the
direction of north 30° west, and south 30° east; the south-east end
making in two very high mounts, which may be seen at the distance of more
than twenty leagues, and at first appear like two detached isles. About
three leagues from these, and nearly in a south-east direction, is a
remarkably high and pointed rock,* which may be seen at least twelve
leagues off; from this there are dangerous rocks extending three or four
miles, both in a south-east and south-west line; those to the south-west
not shewing themselves above water: there are also rocks extending four
or five miles off the north-west and north-east ends of the island, which
is of a moderate height. Both extremes are bluff, and there appears to be
much foul ground about them: within the north-west point lies a rock with
eleven fathoms water close to it, and there is a passage between it and
the island. The reef on the west side extends nearly to both extremes
with breaks in it, through which boats may pass with safety, but within
the reef it is in general very shoaly. The island is tolerably broad at
each end, and very narrow, with low land in the center, forming two bays,
that should the wind be from south-east to north-east, or south-west to
north-west, a ship may always be secure by running to the leeward of the
island. There are regular soundings on the west side, but the ground is
too hard for holding well, being coral rocks. The east side they did not
examine. The low narrow part has evidently been overflowed and the island
disjointed, for in the very center, as they walked across, they saw large
beds of coral rocks, and shells in great abundance; and on the east side,
which seems in general to be the weather side, the sea has thrown up a
bank of sand, from twenty-five to thirty feet in height, which serves as
a barrier against future inundations. The island has likewise every
appearance of having undergone a volcanic revolution, as they found great
quantities of burnt stone and pumice stone; and Mr. Anstis, who landed on
the reef which shelters the west bay, at dead low water, found the whole
a burnt up mass.
[* Ball's Pyramid.]
The inhabitants of this island were all of the feathered tribe, and the
chief of these was the ganet, of which there were prodigious numbers, and
it should seem that this is the time of their incubation, the females
being all on their nests: these are places simply hollowed in the sand,
there not being a single quadruped that could be found upon the island to
disturb them. The people brought numbers of their eggs on board. Very
large pigeons were also met with in great plenty; likewise beautiful
parrots and parroquets; a new species, apparently, of the coote, and also
of the rail, and magpie; and a most beautiful small bird, brown, with a
yellow breast and yellow on the wing; it seemed to be a species of
humming bird: there was also a black bird, like a sheerwater, with a
hooked bill, which burrows in the ground. Numbers of ants were seen,
which appeared the only insect at this place, except the common earth
worm. The soil is of a sandy nature, and fresh water extremely scarce in
those places which they had an opportunity of examining.
This island is well covered with wood, the chief of which is the large
and dwarf mangrove, the bamboo, and the cabbage tree. The different
vegetables met with were scurvy grass, wild celery, spinach, endive, and
samphire.
31 May 1788
From the mean of all their observations they found this island to be
situated in 31°. 30'. 49". south latitude, and by comparing their lunar
observations with those of Lieutenant Ball, they found its longitude to
be 159°. 10'. 00". east of Greenwich. The mean state of the thermometer,
during their short stay, was 66°. and the variation of the compass, by
many observations, was found to be 10°. east. In the afternoon the
pinnace was hoisted in, and they made sail to the eastward with a fresh
breeze at south-west. Nothing material occurred till the 31st, when about
three o'clock in the afternoon they saw two islands, one bearing
north-east, half east, seven leagues, and the other east by south, about
six leagues distant. Not having an opportunity of getting well in with
the land before night came on, they plied occasionally under an easy
sail, and at day-light next morning [1 June 1788] made sail and bore up for
it. On approaching the southernmost land, they found it to form two barren
isles, separated by a channel about a quarter of a mile over, and
apparently free from danger: the north island lies in a north half east
direction from these, and about five leagues distant. At noon, the body
of the north island bore north-east by north three miles distant: their
latitude at that time was 30°. 11'. south, and the longitude by lunar
observation 180°. 58'. 37". east. At one o'clock they bore round the west
end of the island, and hove to near the center of it, about a mile off
shore. They were in hopes, from the appearance of the island at a
distance, that they should have found it productive of something
beneficial to the people, (the scurvy gaining ground daily) but they were
greatly disappointed; both the north and south sides are surrounded by
rocks, over which the water flows, without the least opening for a boat;
however, Capt. Sever ordered the small boat to be hoisted out, and went
on shore accompanied by Mr. Anstis: they found great difficulty in
landing, and, when upon the rocks, they had to mount a very dangerous
precipice, in order to gain the level part of the island. This island
forms very high at the west end, and slopes gradually to the east end,
where it terminates in a cliff of a moderate height: both sides have a
range of these cliffs extending the whole length, which are chiefly
composed of white sand. The whole of the island bears the strongest marks
of being a volcanic production, having great quantities of pumice stone
on it, and the rocks quite burnt up. The top of the land was covered with
a coarse kind of grass, and the place affords great plenty of the wild
mangrove. The extent of this island is about two miles and an half,
nearly in the direction of east-south-east and west-north-west; the soil
a mixture of mould and sand. The inhabitants are the brown gull, the
light-grey bird, ganets, and a parroquet of the same species with those
met with at Lord Howe's Island. The gentlemen could scarcely walk a step
without being up to the knee in holes: they saw a great number of rats
and mice, and found many birds lying dead at the entrances of their
burrows: they saw no appearance of fresh water, though from the gullies
that were formed in various parts, the island must certainly be subject
to very heavy rains. This island was named Macaulay's Island, after G. M.
Macaulay, Esq; and the two islands to the southward, Curtis's Isles,
after Timothy and William Curtis, Esqrs. At five in the afternoon, the
Captain returning on board, the boat was hoisted in, and they made sail,
standing to the eastward with a moderate breeze at south-west. Macaulay's
Island is situated in 30°. 09'. south latitude, and 180°. 58'. 37''.
east longitude.
6 June 1788-10 July 1788
The scurvy now began to spread very fast among the crew, and by the 6th,
they had nine men unable to get out of their hammocks, and many others
complained very much: swelled gums, the flesh exceeding black and hard, a
contraction of the sinews, with a total debility; were the general
appearances. Wine was daily served out to them, and there was sour-krout
on on board, but the people refused to eat it. From this to the 17th they
had little variety; by that time the people were in a deplorable state,
for with every person on board, the Captain included, they could only
muster ten men able to do duty, and some of them were in a very weakly
state: sour-krout, which before had been refused, now began to be sought
after, and they had all the Captain's fresh stock, himself and officers
living solely on salt provisions; and to add to their melancholy
situation the wind hung almost constantly in the eastern board, so that
they could scarcely make any progress. For several days they had very
squally unsettled weather, attended with almost constant heavy rain, and
frequent storms of thunder and lightning. On the 24th, being then in 32°.
12'. south latitude, and 207°. 28'. east longitude, the wind shifted to
the westward, but the weather still continued squally and unsettled. On
the 7th July, in 21°. 57'. south latitude, they fell in with the
south-east trade wind, and as the people were in a very weak condition,
it was determined to make Otaheite as soon as possible. At six o'clock in
the morning of the 9th, they saw Osnaburgh Island, bearing north by east,
half east, four or five leagues distant. At seven they bore up for
Otaheite, and at ten o'clock that island made its appearance, bearing
west by north; by five in the afternoon they were abreast of Oaitepeha
Bay, and ten canoes presently came alongside with bread-fruit, cocoa
nuts, etc. The Indians pressed them very much to come to an anchor there,
but as they were not able to purchase their anchor again when once let
go, Mr. Watts advised the Captain to stand on for Matavai Bay. During the
night they wore occasionally, and at day-light in the morning of the 10th
stood in for the land. At noon, Point Venus bore south-west by south
about three miles distant. In standing into Matavai Bay the ship got
rather too close on the Dolphin Bank, having only two and a half fathoms
water for several casts, over a hard bottom, but she deepened at once to
seventeen fathoms, and they stood over to the south side of the bay, in
hopes by making a board, to fetch the Resolution's old birth, which would
have made the watering place very handy; but the ship missing stays, they
were obliged to let go the anchor, and content themselves in their
situation. They anchored at nine o'clock in eight fathoms water, over a
soft bottom, Point Venus bearing north-north-east, and One Tree Hill
south by east, half east, distant from shore about half a mile. On
approaching the bay, they could perceive a prodigious number of the
natives on Point Venus, and round the beach, and several canoes put off
from the shore, the Indians waving pieces of white cloth and making signs
for them to come into the bay. When anchored they had only three men in
one watch, and two in the other besides the mates, and two of these
ailing; the rest of the crew were in a truly deplorable state.
Their first care was naturally to procure some refreshments, and it was a
pleasing circumstance for them to see the natives flock round the ship,
calling out "Tayo Tayo," which signifies friends; and "Pabii no Tutti,"
Cook's ship; and bringing in very great plenty cocoa nuts, bread-fruit,
plantains and taro, and a fruit known by the name of the Otaheite apple;
they also brought some hogs and fowls. All the Indians appeared glad to
see them, and disposed of their various commodities on very moderate
terms, and indeed their whole behaviour indicated the most friendly
intentions. In the evening, the Chief of Matavai came on board, and in
him Lieutenant Watts recollected an old friend: the Chief was greatly
pleased to see Mr. Watts, as he was the only person in the ship who had
been here before, except the steward, who had been before the mast in the
Resolution; therefore, when Mona (which was the chief's name) saw his old
acquaintance, he explained to his companions who he was, and that he had
been with Capt. Cook, and they seemed very glad to have some of their old
visitors again. Mr. Watts learnt from Mona, that O'too was still living,
that he was always called Earee Tutti, and then was absent on a visit to
the eastward, but expected to return in four or five days: At the same
time, he said, messengers had been sent to acquaint him of the ship's
arrival. He also informed Mr. Watts, that Maheine, the chief of Eimeo, to
retaliate the mischief done him by Capt. Cook, had, after the departure
of the Resolution and Discovery from the islands, landed in the night at
Oparree, and destroyed all the animals and fowls he could lay hold of,
and that O'too was obliged to fly to the mountains. He likewise intimated
that the Attahooroo men joined Maheine in this business. Indeed, it
occurred to Mr. Watts, that when here in the Resolution, Toha, the chief
of that district, threatened something of the kind in a quarrel with
O'too, and probably smothered his resentment only for a time, fearful of
Capt. Cook revenging it, should it come to his knowledge.
11 July 1788
The next day, Oediddee agreeably surprised them with a visit on board:
he was greatly rejoiced to see them, and enquired after all his friends in
a very affectionate manner: He took great pleasure in recounting his route
in the Resolution, had treasured up in his memory the names of the several
places he had been at in her, nor had he forgot his English compliments.
He informed them that no ship had been at the islands since Capt. Cook:
therefore, they concealed his death, and Capt. Sever made Oediddee a
present, as coming from Capt. Cook. Oediddee confirmed the report of the
cattle, etc. being destroyed by Maheine, and likewise informed them that
Omai, and the two New Zealand boys had been dead a considerable time
through illness, and that one horse only was alive at Huaheine, but they
could not learn any further particulars from him.
13 July 1788
In the evening of the 13th, a messenger came on board with a present from
O'too of a small pig, a dog, and some white cloth, and intimated that he
would be at Matavai the next day. Early in the next morning but few
canoes came off to the ship, and the natives were observed assembling on
the shore in prodigious numbers: soon afterwards, a canoe came alongside
and informed them that O'too was on the beach; on this, the Captain and
Mr. Watts went on shore immediately, and found him surrounded by an
amazing concourse of people, amongst whom were several women cutting
their foreheads very much with the shark's tooth, but what both surprised
and pleased them very much, was, to see a man carrying the portrait of
Captain Cook, drawn by Webber in 1777. Notwithstanding so much time had
elapsed since the picture was drawn, it had received no injury, and they
were informed that O'too always carried it with him wherever he went.
After the first salutations were over, Mr. Watts asked O'too to accompany
him to the ship, to which he readily agreed; but previously to his
entering the boat he ordered the portrait in, and when he got alongside
the ship he observed the same ceremony. When on board he appeared much
pleased, asked after his old friends, and was very particular in his
enquiries after Capt. Cook. He visited the ship between decks, was
astonished to see so few people on board, and the greatest part of them
in a debilitated state, and enquired if they had lost any men at sea. He
acquainted them with the revenge taken by the Eimeo people, and asked why
they had not brought out some cattle, etc. He also mentioned the death of
Omai, and the New Zealand boys, and added, that there had been a skirmish
between the men of Uliatea and those of Huaheine, in which the former
were victorious, and that a great part of Omai's property was carried to
Uliatea. O'too was considerably improved in his person, and was by much
the best made man of any that they saw; nor was he, as yet, disfigured by
the baneful effects of the ava. He preserved his original character in
supplying the ship with provisions of every kind in the most liberal
manner; and when any of the natives who had come from a considerable
distance, begged his intercession with them on board to take their hogs,
etc. off their hands, which, on account of the few people they had, they
were often obliged, much against their inclination, to refuse, he was
very moderate: indeed, he generally left the matter to themselves, and
whenever he undertook to dispose of another person's property was always
well paid for his trouble. During their stay at Otaheite he daily paid
them a visit, and importuned the Captain very much to move the ship into
the Resolution's old birth: where she then lay, she was nearly in the
situation of the Dolphin on her first anchoring; and though at some
distance from the watering place, yet, considering the small number of
people on board, and their weak situation, the Captain judged it prudent
to remain where he was, as in case of necessity he could put to sea
instantly.
O'too was always accompanied by a woman, whose advice he asked upon every
occasion; she was by no means handsome, neither did she possess that
delicacy, or those engaging manners that so much distinguish her
countrywomen in general: she was of the Earree class, and seemed to have
great authority; but whether or no she was his wife they did not learn,
though Mr. Watts was rather inclined to think they were married, and he
appeared to be greatly attached to her. The king and all the chiefs were
very urgent for Captain Sever to go to Eimeo, and revenge their quarrel,
and several of them offered to get a stock of provisions and accompany
him; however, to this request he gave a positive refusal. About three
days before they quitted Matavai Bay, O'too brought the ring of an anchor
on board, observing it might be made into small hatchets: Mr. Watts upon
examining it, recollected that it certainly belonged to an anchor which
Captain Cook bought of Opooni, at Bola Bola, in 1777: as there was no
forge on board the Lady Penrhyn, the Captain offered O'too three hatchets
for it, which he readily took. When Captain Cook bought the anchor just
mentioned it wanted the ring and one of the palms, and at that time they
knew that it had been carried from Otaheite, and belonged to Mons.
Bougainville: how O'too came by the ring, Mr. Watts could not learn, but
had he possessed it when the Resolution was here, it is reasonable to
suppose he would have brought it to Captain Cook, and the more so as at
that time the natives used to bring many large pieces of iron (which they
had obtained from the Spaniards) to be either worked up or exchanged for
trinkets. Though from the season of the year they had reason to expect a
scarcity of vegetables, yet they were agreably surprised to find them in
the greatest plenty and profusion; hogs were multiplied amazingly, and
from the proceedings of the natives, Mr. Watts was induced to think they
were desirous to thin them, as they brought none to barter but sows, and
the greatest part of them were with pig: fowls were obtained in tolerable
plenty, but they were all cocks, and old; the natives likewise brought
goats alongside for sale, and some of them brought cats and offered them
in barter. Captain Sever purchased a fine male and milch goat with two
kids.
Cocoa nuts are a never failing article at this place, and the
bread-fruit, which was so scarce when the Endeavour was here at the same
season of the year, was now exceedingly plentiful, and in high
perfection, as was the Otaheite apple; plantains, both ripe and green,
and taro, the natives brought in great quantities, but yams and sweet
potatoes were very scarce. They purchased seven or eight dozen of
pumkins, and a quantity of chilipods, which were some of the produce of
the Resolution's garden, and one of the Indians brought some cabbage
leaves on board, but the cabbages, as well as sundry other vegetables,
were gone to ruin for want of proper care and attention. The natives
could not be enticed to eat any of the pumkins, and the chilipods they
said poisoned them.
It already has been observed, that no ship of any nation had visited this
island since Captain Cook, and from appearances, the iron which the
natives obtained at that time was pretty well exhausted, as the only iron
now seen was the blade of a table-knife; neither did they bring any tools
on board to be sharpened, which certainly would have been the case had
they been possessed of any, and such was their avidity to obtain
hatchets, knives, etc. that every produce the island afforded was
purchased at very reasonable rates, nor were the first prices given,
attempted to be altered during their stay. Besides hatchets, knives, and
nails, the natives were very desirous to have gimlets, files, and
scissars; they also asked for looking-glasses, and white transparent
beads, but of these latter articles they had none on board: red feathers,
which had formerly been held in great esteem, were now of no value; they
would accept them as presents indeed, but would not barter any one
article for them.
As their situation was not a very eligible one, Mr. Watts did not think
it prudent to go any great distance from the ship, or even to be much on
shore, so that he was prevented from gaining much information, or seeing
into many matters that might have enabled him to judge whether the whole
of their report respecting Omai, and the loss of his property, etc. was
true or not; however, he was inclined to think that the cattle and all
the animals were killed, except goats, as Oediddee, when he confirmed the
revenge of the Eimeo people, never mentioned that any one animal was
saved: goats, indeed, had been left on former voyages, and from increase
had become the property of many, but Maheine's resentment, it seems, was
levelled at O'too only.
23 July 1788
Great numbers of the natives had been carried off by the
venereal disease, which they had caught from their connections with the
crews of the Resolution and Discovery; nor were the women so free from
this complaint as formerly, especially the lowest class, the better sort
seemingly not wishing to hazard the catching so terrible a disorder. The
people having recovered in a most astonishing manner, and being now able
to assist in the duties of the ship, Captain Sever thought it adviseable
to run down amongst the Society Isles, as they had got a plentiful supply
of provisions on board; accordingly, they got under way before daylight
in the morning of the 23d. The natives soon took the alarm, and the
breeze slackening, they were soon crowded with visitors, none of whom
came empty handed. Their friends parted from them with great reluctance,
and the suddenness of their departure seemed to disappoint the natives
greatly; indeed, they would not have left the place so abruptly, had they
not been apprehensive that if their intention was known, the Indians
would have flocked on board in too great numbers, and have been
troublesome. They had the satisfaction of leaving this Island in perfect
amity with the natives, and it is but doing them justice to say, that
during the time the Lady Penrhyn lay here, not one occasion offered to
induce them to fire a musquet. Oediddee regretted their departure
exceedingly, and importuned the Captain very much to take him to Uliatea,
but O'too (whatever were his reasons) begged that he might by no means be
taken from Otaheite; the Captain promised he should not, and taking leave
of Oediddee, put him into his canoe, on which he shed tears in abundance,
said he was very unhappy, and when he put from the ship never once turned
to look at her: his situation was much to be pitied, and he truly merited
every friendship that could be shown him; during the time they lay here,
he was a constant visitor, and daily brought on board a supply of ready
drest provisions. O'too was one of the earliest on board in the morning,
and did not leave the ship till they had cleared the reef; he expressed
great sorrow at their departure, mentioned how much time had elapsed
since the Resolution and Discovery were at Otaheite, begged they would
not be so long absent any more, and desired very much to have some horses
brought to him, more particularly than any other animal: just before he
quitted the ship, he asked for a few guns to be fired, with which the
Captain complied. A breeze now springing up, their friends took a last
farewell, and they stood to the north-west for Huaheine; at noon, Point
Venus was about five miles distant.
It may, perhaps, be lamented, that Lieutenant Watts (whose acquaintance
with the Chiefs, and knowledge of their language, rendered him a proper
person to make enquiries) should not have been able to give a more full
account of matters, at an island that has so much engaged the public
notice; but, when the short stay of the ship, and her situation are
considered, it will be natural to imagine, that the officers found their
time very fully employed: such particulars, however, as have been above
related may be depended on as facts.
25 July 1788
At noon on the 25th, they saw the island, Huaheine, bearing west
three-quarters north, fourteen leagues distant: from this time they had
very light winds, and those westerly, which prevented their reaching the
island before noon on the 26th; when the extremes of it bore from west
half north to south by west half west, off shore three miles. They kept
standing off and on, on the east side (the wind continuing in the western
board) till the 29th, during which time the natives brought off plenty of
refreshments, but they were far more exorbitant in their demands than
their neighbours.
29 July 1788
In the morning of the 29th, the wind veering to the south south-east,
they stood round the north end of the island, and brought to off Owharree
harbour; the natives appeared perfectly friendly, and constantly supplied
them with every article except bread-fruit, which they said had failed
that season: they were very importunate for them to go into the harbour,
but as Captain Sever did not intend to stay more than a day or two, he
did not think it worth the trouble.
In the evening, an elderly chief, who went by the name of Tutti, and whom
Mr. Watts recollected to have frequently seen with Captain Cook, came on
board; he confirmed the reports they had heard at Otaheite, and told
them, that after Omai had got perfectly settled, he found himself under
the necessity of purchasing a great quantity of cloth, and other
necessaries, for himself and family, of which his neighbours took
advantage, and made him pay extravagantly for every article he purchased;
that he frequently visited Uliatea, and never went empty handed, so that
by these means he expended much of his treasure: he died at his own
house, as did the New Zealand boys, but in what order their deaths had
happened, Tutti could not give information. Upon Omai's decease, the
Uliatea men came over and attacked them for his property, alledging that
as he was a native of their island they had an undoubted right to it.
Tutti said they carried away a considerable part of his remaining
property, and particularly his musquets, the stocks of which they broke,
and took the powder and buried it in the sand: he added, that the
conflict had been very fierce, and that great numbers were slain on both
sides, nor were they friends even at this time. Three of the natives who
came on board, had the os frontis fractured in a terrible manner, but
they were then perfectly recovered of their wounds. The house that
Captain Cook had built for Omai was still in being, and was covered by a
very large one built after the country fashion; it was taken possession
of by the chief of the island. With respect to the horses, the mare had
foaled, but died soon afterwards, as did the foal, the horse was still
living though of no benefit: thus were rendered fruitless the benevolent
intentions of his Majesty, and all the pains and trouble Captain Cook had
been at in preserving the cattle, during a tedious passage to these
islands.
2 August 1788-24 August 1788
Having recruited their stock of provisions, and added a large quantity of
yams and sugar cane, and the wind coming to the eastward (which had not
been the case more than four or five days since their first anchoring in
Matavai Bay) they on the 2d of August took leave of their friends, and
stood to the northward until noon, when they steered north-west. They
carried away from these hospitable islands, sixty hogs, weighing from
seventy to two hundred and twenty pounds each, besides near fifty small
pigs, ten dozen of fowls, an immense quantity of cocoa-nuts, green
plantains, sugar cane, taro, and yams, and about eight dozen of pumkins;
the people were all perfectly recovered, and from the plentiful stock of
provisions on board there was reason to hope that they would not be any
more alarmed for their safety. At day light in the Morning of the 8th,
they saw a low flat island, bearing from east to north-east seven or
eight miles distant; it appeared to be well clothed with trees, but the
weather at that time being squally allowed them a very imperfect view.
Captain Sever named it Penrhyn's Island; it is situated in 9°. 10'. south
latitude, and 202°. 15'. east longitude. In the afternoon of the 20th,
the Captain and some others imagining they saw land, and the sun setting
in a fog-bank, which prevented them ascertaining the reality, they
shortened sail, and lay by for the night; but at five o'clock the next
morning no land being in sight, they made sail and stood to the
north-west by west, with a fine breeze at north-east. In the evening of
the 23d, being near the situation of an island and reef, as laid down in
Lord Anson's chart, they brought to for the night. A number of ganets and
other birds were flying about the next day, but no land appeared in
sight: their latitude at noon was 9° 30' north, and 179° 18' east
longitude.
15 September 1788
Nothing occured worthy of note till the 15th of September, when about
noon they saw the island of Saypan, bearing west half north, twelve
leagues distant. The next day at noon the south end of Tinian was about
four leagues distant: in the afternoon the small boat was hoisted out,
and Mr. Anstis went in her to sound a small bay round the south point of
Saypan; he returned at seven o'clock, having found from ten to twenty
fathoms water about a mile off shore, but the ground hard. The next
morning, Mr. Anstis went on shore in the small boat to endeavour to
procure a bullock, great numbers of which were seen grazing on the island
Tinian. At six in the afternoon, they stood round the south point of
Tinian, but finding they could not fetch into the road, they brought to
for the night. In the evening, Mr. Anstis returned with the best part of
a young bullock. The next morning at day light, they made sail and stood
in for the road, and at nine o'clock came to anchor in eighteen fathoms,
over a bottom of coral, about a mile and an half distant from shore. Soon
after they anchored, a party were sent on shore to hunt.
25 September 1788-29 September 1788
From this to the 25th, they had light winds varying from south to east,
with frequent showers over the land, and the flies so very troublesome
that they found Captain Byron's account of them perfectly just. On coming
to an anchor, they observed a buoy a little to the southward, with a slip
buoy to it, they swept for the anchor, weighed it, and found it belonged
to the Charlotte (Gilbert, master) one of the ships from Port Jackson
bound to China; there were two-thirds of a cable to it. The party on
shore also found some spars, apparently erected for a tent, and three
water casks, one of which was full: it is most likely the Charlotte was
blown out of the road, and could not regain her station again. Observing
that their anchor was foul, on the 25th they hove it up to clear, and let
it go again; presently afterwards, finding the ship adrift, they sounded,
and had twenty-five fathoms, but as she was at the edge of the bank, they
hove the anchor up, and made a stretch to the southward, but did not
again fetch the bay till the evening of the 26th. The two following days
they had dark heavy weather with very hard squalls, and almost continual
rain, the wind from north-east to south-east. At day light in the morning
of the 29th, the wind veered round to the south south-west, and soon
afterwards, a very severe squall, attended with heavy rain, set the ship
adrift, and the tide making strong to the north-west with a large hollow
sea, they veered the reef very fast; however, the squall something
abating, and fortunately backing round to the south south-east, they got
their anchor up (which they otherwise would not have been able to have
effected) and bore away to the north north-west. At noon the body of
Tinian bore east half south, about four leagues distant.
During their stay at Tinian, filling water took up the whole of their
time, the well not affording more than three tons a day, sometimes only
two tons: the water was rather brackish, but otherwise not ill tasted.
They found the fowls and hogs very shy, and the cattle had quite deserted
the south part of the island, owing, as was imagined, to the alarm the
Charlotte's people had occasioned among them.
They obtained two bulls, eight hogs, and about a dozen fowls; they also
got bread fruit, but it was at some distance up the country, and the
generality of it not ripe: there was abundance of guavas but they were
not in season; limes and sour oranges were also very plentiful. Cocoa-nut
trees were in abundance, but those within a moderate distance from the
beach were cut down, so that the distance they had to go for any was
attended with too much fatigue to compensate for the advantages which
could be derived from them, as they experienced from two or three
attempts of the kind: the season in general seemed very backward. In
addition to the animals of this place, they found wild cats, The country
had exactly the same appearance as when Captains Byron and Wallis visited
it, but many of the pyramidical pillars had fallen down and were much
decayed. The mean state of the thermometer during their stay, was 87°. In
their passage from hence to China, no material circumstance occurred, and
on the 19th of October they anchored in Macao Roads.