Nautical directions, and other detached remarks, by Lieutenant Ball,
concerning Rio de Janeiro, Norfolk Island, Ball Pyramid, and Lord Howe
Island.
Some notice has already been taken in the preceding sheets of Rio de
Janeiro, Norfolk Isle, and Lord Howe Isle; but since they were committed
to the press, the following particulars respecting those places have very
obligingly been communicated to the editor, by Lieutenant Henry Lidgbird
Ball. As these remarks are the result of minute observation, they cannot
fail of being useful and interesting to the seafaring reader, which, it
is presumed, will be a sufficient apology for giving them a place here.
There is no danger in going up the harbour to Rio de Janeiro but what may
easily be seen. The course up the harbour is north-west by north; you
anchor before the town in seventeen fathoms water, over a muddy bottom;
the middle of the town bearing west by north, west, or west by south,
about a mile and an half distant from the watering place, and the Fort
Saint Cruz bearing south-east. No pilot is necessary; the soundings
a-breast of St. Cruz Fort are twenty-two fathoms, and shoal gradually to
seventeen fathoms, where the ships moored a-breast of the town. The tide
flows two hours and thirty minutes at full and change, and rises in
general about eight feet. In going into the harbour, it is necessary to
keep the starboard shore best aboard, as the tide sets on the other side,
till you get nearly a-breast of St. Cruz Fort, and in that situation you
must be on your guard, if going in with the flood, as the passage is
narrow: and there are whirlpools in many places, which will take all
command from the rudder. Water is procured at a pipe, by which it is
conveyed from a fountain situated in the large square near the principal
landing place, which is opposite the palace. This pipe is continued down
to the waterside, and you fill your casks in boats: the water is so
plentiful, that a fleet might be supplied in a short time.
Bullocks, sheep, and Portugal wine, may be had here in plenty; there is
also an excellent market for poultry and vegetables every day; in short,
every refreshment that is necessary for a fleet may be procured in great
abundance, and very cheap.
The whole harbour, as well as the town, is defended by a number of strong
fortifications; and as far as Lieutenant Ball had an opportunity of
examining the harbour, the draft of it published in the East India chart
is very true, the soundings right, and the bearings very accurate.
Their trade is chiefly to Portugal, and consists of bullion, indigo,
sugar, rum, tobacco, brazil wood, whale-oil, whale bone, spermaceti, etc.
and of late years diamonds and many other valuable commodities.
In approaching Norfolk Island there is no danger: Lieut. Ball anchored in
nineteen fathoms, over a bottom of coarse sand and coral, the north-east
end of the island bearing west south-west quarter west; the easternmost
rocks east south-east, about a mile distant from the nearest shore: at
this place Capt. Cook landed. Ships have anchored also at south end of
the isle in twenty-two fathoms, the westernmost point of Phillip Isle
south south-east, the body of Nepean's Isle east north-east half east,
and the south point of Norfolk Isle north-east by east. They anchored
again in eighteen fathoms, over a bottom of sand and coral, the west
point of Phillip Isle bearing south, the easternmost point of it south
south-east half east, and the south point of Norfolk Isle north-east. The
pine trees on this island are of an immense size, measuring from twenty
to twenty-seven and even thirty feet in girth, and so tall that it was
not easy to form any exact judgment of their height. This place affords
vast numbers of cabbage trees, and amazing quantities of fish may be
procured on the banks that lie on the west side of the small island;
those they got on board the Supply were of the snapper kind, and very
good, yet they were caught in such abundance that many of the people were
as much satiated with them as the sailors are with cod on the banks of
Newfoundland.
The only places where it was found practicable to land was a-breast of
their first station (which is the place described by Captain Cook, and
where the people landed with the utmost difficulty,) and at Sydney Bay on
the south end of the isle, the outer breaker off the westernmost point in
sight bearing north-west by west half west.
Lord Howe Island was discovered by Lieutenant Henry Lidgbird Ball,
Commander of his Majesty's tender Supply, on the 17th February, 1788, and
was so named by him, in honour of the Right Honourable Lord Howe. At the
same time he observed a remarkably high pyramidical rock at a
considerable distance from the island, which has been named Ball's
Pyramid; from a correct drawing of this rock and others near it, the
annexed engraving was taken.
There is no danger in approaching Lord Howe island, the Supply anchored
there in thirteen fathoms, sand and coral; but there lies about four
miles from the south-west part of the pyramid, a dangerous rock, which
shows itself a little above the surface of the water, and appears not to
be larger than a boat. Lieutenant Ball had no opportunity of examining
whether there is a safe passage between them or not. The island is in the
form of a crescent, the convex side towards the north-east. Two points at
first supposed to be separate islands, proved to be high mountains on its
south-west end, the southernmost of which was named Mount Gower, and the
other Mount Lidgbird; between these mountains there is a very deep
valley, which obtained the name of Erskine Valley; the south-east point
was called Point King, and the north-west point, Point Phillip. The land
between these two points forms the concave side of the island facing the
south-west, and is lined with a sandy beach, which is guarded against the
sea by a reef of coral rock, at the distance of half a mile from the
beach, through which there are several small openings for boats; but it
is to be regretted that the depth of water within the reef no where
exceeds four feet. They found no fresh water on the island, but it
abounds with cabbage-palms, mangrove and manchineal trees, even up to to
the summits of the mountains. No vegetables were to be seen. On the shore
there are plenty of ganets, and a land-fowl, of a dusky brown colour,
with a bill about four inches long, and feet like those of a chicken;
these proved remarkably fat, and were very good food; but we have no
further account of them. There are also many very large pigeons, and the
white birds resembling the Guinea fowl, which were found at Norfolk
Island, were seen here also in great numbers. The bill of this bird is
red, and very strong, thick, and sharp-pointed. Innumerable quantities of
exceeding fine turtle frequent this place in the summer season, but at
the approach of winter they all go to the northward. There was not the
least difficulty in taking them. The sailors likewise caught plenty of
fish with a hook and line.